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Photographic 

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D 
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Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


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to 


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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Th 
po 
of 
filr 


Ori 
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sic 
oti 
fin 
sic 
or 


Th 
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Til 

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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


Z6X 


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16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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to  ths  ganorosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
gAnArosit*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


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filmaga. 


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empreinte. 


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TINUED "I,  or  tha  symbol  Y  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symbolos  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  se'on  le 
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Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Aire 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  I  es  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

DOCTOR  AND  MRS.  WHITE. 


V' 


->1-. 


THRILLING  ADVENTURES, 


TRAVELS  AND  EXPLORATIONS 


or 


DOCTOR    ELIJAH    WIIITI], 


AM<»N(;    TIIK 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS 


AND    IV    THE 


FAR    WEST. 


N 


WITU 


mCIDENTS  OF  TWO  SEA  VOYAGES  VIA.  SAND- 
WICH  ISLANDS  AllOUND  CAPE  HORN; 


f     '! 


conta;xix<;,  also,  a 


aaiEP    HISTORY    OK    THE  MISSIONS    AND    SKTrLKMKNT  OF    TIIK  COUNTttT 

— ORIGIN    OF    TIIK  I'llOVISIONAL  GOVKIINMKN  IS    <IK  THE  WKSTBEM 

TEaillTOIlIES  —  NIMBKR      AND    M'VKlMS    OK     THE     INDIANS  — 

INCIDENTS     WrTM>SKD      WliILK      TU AVEKSINCi    AND    KK- 

SIDING    IN     TIIK     TKIlKITOlilES  —  DESCKII'TIOX    OK 

THE     SOIL,    I'UODIICTION      AM)    CLIMATE. 


«• 


COMPILED  BY  MISS  A.  J.  ALLEN. 


Mnv  YouK  : 
J  .    W  .    Y  A  I.  r 


j^jUV- 


NW 


INTRODUCTION. 

Some  admirers  of  solid  reading  say,  with  regretful  sighs, 
and  doleful  faces,  that  the  day  of  stable,  instructing  litera- 
ture is  superseded  by  that  of  trashy  novels,  romances,  etc., 
tending  to  corrupt  the  mind  and  principles.  Formerly,  the 
tables  of  even  the  fashionable  were  strown  with  volumes  de- 
signed noi,  only  to  amuse,  but  to  elevate,  edify,  and  contrib- 
ute to  the  truly  intellectual  enjoyment  of  their  readers  instead 
of  those  fostering  vitiated  tastes  and  sullying  youthful  minds, 
with  which  they  insist  our  shelves  are  now  cumbered.  They 
mourn  over  the  degeneracy  in  this  of  our  otherwise  "  age  of 
improvement,"  and  not  rightly  judging  the  true  cause,  al- 
most wish,  from  the  evils  which  have  arisen  from  this,  that 
the  noble  art  of  printing  had  remained  undiscovered. 

But,  dear  friends,  do  not  shake  your  head  in  such  grave 
disapproval  of  the  above  apparently  ironical  paragraph.  In 
part,  I  do  agree  with  you.  There  does  seem  to  have  been 
a  sad  falling  off  from  the  pure  healthful  taste  of  former  days, 
when  a  volume  of  true  poetry,  or  a  treatise  on  a  sensible 
subject  could  be  read  with  real  zest  and  enjoyment.  It  is 
too  true,  that  many  works  are  now  forced  upon  us  detailing 
scenes  too  highly  wrought,  exciting  and  dissipating  to  the 
mind,  and  presenting  pictures  tending  to  nourish  a  depraved 
moral  hunger.  In  their  places  we  should  have  productions 
divested  of  frivolous  imaginings,  wild  speculations,  and  false 
sentimentalism  ;  and  I  can  not  believe  that  our  tastes  are  so 
vitiated  that  such  we  could  not  appreciate  and  duly  value- 
There  are  real  scenes  of  sorrow  and  pleasure  even  in  this 


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Vi 


INTRODUCTIOy. 


common-place,  plodding  world  of  ours,  ^vllicll,  if  properly 
pictured,  would  absorb  and  interest  willjoul  turning  the 
mind  into  an  enervating  or  immoral  channel.  However,  1 
do  not  caiTy  condemnation  of  fiction  to  the  extreme  that  1 
would  banish  it  altogether.  Certain  European  novelists  may 
write  a  pure  sentiment.  Arthur — who  would  condemn  his 
truthful,  home-like  tales  to  the  shade  !  Our  noble  Mrs.  Ste- 
vens, enchanting  us  of  a  summer  evening  Avith  her  rich,  in- 
structing stories  of  olden  times.  Miss  Sedgwick,  Miss  Orno, 
Miss  Pickering,  Miss  Gove,  and  last  of  the  many  in  our  men- 
tal view,  sweet,  gentle,  piquant,  Fanny  Forester,  touchingly 
pleading  our  forbearance  **  with  a  smile  on  her  check  and  a 
tear  in  her  een." 

Well,  lady  novel  reader,  I  fancy  I  see  a  smile  again.  1 
feared  I  had  gained  your  displeasure;  for,  till  the  last  sen- 
tence or  two,  I  imagined  a  look  of  dudgeon  stole  over  you 
face.  I  will  endeavor  to  cater  for  the  taste  of  all,  as  far  as 
consistency  will  allow  me.  To  the  first  class  of  readers  I 
will  just  say,  that  within  these  lids  they  will  find  nought 
contained  but  truth  ;  to  the  second,  that,  although  all  true, 
some  of  the  incidents  are  sufficiently  thrilling  to  please,  1 
trust,  even  after  perusing  the  effusions  of  James,  Cooper,  or 
Lippard,  that  prince  of  thrilling  story  tellers,  and  with  this 
they  must  rest  content.  The  narrative,  such  as  it  is,  is  ex- 
tracted, and  compiled  from  various  notes  and  other  informa- 
tion obtained  from  Mrs.  While,  and  Dr.  White's  Government 
Reports,  and  sundry  documents  kindly  favored  me,  carrying 
them  through  a  variety  of  scenes ;  interesting  and  extensive 
travels  by  land  and  water,  and  a  residence  of  many  years 
in  the  wilds  of  Ore^fon. 


\ 


'\ 


CONTENTS 


•I 
i 

t 


CIIAi'TEU  I. 

Circumstancts  which  puggested  to  Dr.  White  the  project  of  going  i^ 
Oregon — Kniotions  of  Mrs.  White — Announcing  to  tlie  BonrJ  ot 
Missions  their  willingness  to  gc — Appointment  received — Coinci- 
dence— Reception  at  New  York  and  Boston — Enibarkntion — Friend-j 
accompany  thorn  a  few  niih-s  out — Parting — Number  and  descrip- 
tion  of  the  mipsion  party — Children 17 

CIIAPTKPt  ir. 

First  dinner  on  board — Effect  of  a  change  of  diet — Water;  its  scar- 
city— Swearing — Flying  fish — Shark — Mother  Carey's  cliickcns — 
2'Jmploynienl — Reaching  the  equator — Neptune — Amusing  scene — 
Storm — Plate  of  ham 95 

CHAPTER  III. 

Falkland  Isles — Seals,  etc. — Albatross — Cape  Horn — Atmosphere — 
Man  overboard — Mi.ss  Johnson's  Eflbrts  for  his  conversion — Juan 
Fernandes — Burial  of  the  cook — Whalos — Loss  of  the  ship  Es- 
sex      34 

CHAPTER  lY. 

Black  Fish — Dance  of  the  Porpoises — See  Land — Heights  of  Owyhee — 
Venerable  Pilot — His  after  kindness — L;^dies  left  alone — Return  of 
the  Gentlemen — Cargo  of  Bananas,  &c. — Visitors — Landing — Settle 
for  the  Winter — Dress  of  the  Natives — Numbers  and  occupation — ■ 
Females*  attempt  at  Imitation — Funeral  ceremonies  of  the  Princess— 


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▼ia 


CONTINTe. 


Procession — Cahelas — Visit  to  Touii — Craters  and  Battle  Field — 
Tamaahaah — Ilalf-Casle  School — Mrs.  ■White's  School — Young 
Prince — Character  of  the.  Children — Nurse  Kakeria — Her  love  for 
Silas— Valuable  Presents -i2 

CHAPTER  V. 

Spring  and  preparations  to  leave  the  Sandwich  Islands — Benefit  to 
them  of  their  residence  there — Engage  passage  on  board  ship — Food 
«nd  water — Windy  and  boisterous — Great  loss — Contents  of  the 
boxes  sent  on  board  by  Pilot  Reynolds  ;  his  wife — Interesting  young 
man  ;  his  marriage  with  a  native  woman — Mr.  Grimes — Suc- 
cession of  Storms — Endeavor  to  cross  the  Bar  of  the  Columbia — 
Desperation  of  the  Captain — Crossing — Lulling  of  the  Winds — Ba- 
ker's Bay — Rest  —View — Varieties  of  Trees  ;  their  enormous  siae — 
King  Chcnamus  and  his  Consort ;  his  Intoxication ;  their  Dress — 
Aground  three  times — Visitor — Invitation  to  the  Shore — First  Canoe 
ride — Arrival  at  Astoria — Residence  of  Mr.  Birney — Beds  for  the  . 
Night 49 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Size  of  Astoria — The  Diana  still  aground — Preparations  to  go  to  Fori 
.incouver — One  eyed  Pilot  George — Remonstrances  of  Friends — 
.  irs.  White's  Resolution — Leaving  Astoria — Singing  of  the  Crew — 
Beauty  of  the  Shores — Reflections — Seeking  for  a  place  to  Camp- 
Startling  Incident — Camping — Tale  of  the  "Petrified  Sister."...     62 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Indian  Village — Kindness  of  an  Indian  Woman — New  kind  of  Um- 
brella— Accident — Meeting  with  Dr.  Talmie — Killing  an  Eagle — 
Arrival  at  the  Fort — Garden  and  Plantation — Arrival  of  the  Diana — 
Mr.  Jason  Lee — Raillery  of  Miss  Pitman — Mr.  Lee's  Introduction — 
Leaving  the  Fort — Captain  Hinckley's  officiousness — Laughable  ar- 
rangement— Boat  races — Conclusion  respecting  Mr.  Lee — Putting 
in  for  the  night — Supper  and  walk — Pond — Pleasant  sail — Willa- 
mette Falls — A  trad'tion — ^Bargain — Portage — Elk  Bluff* — Pudding 
River — Arrival  at  Battens  de  porte  McKoys — Letter — Departure  for 


C0NTEMT8. 


IX 


f 


the  Miflsion — Delightful  journey — Arrival  at  their  destination — Misn 
Downing  and  Mr.  Shepherd — His  appearance — Two  thounind  two 
hundred  milea  journey  ended — First  dinner 63 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Mr.  Daniel  Lee — Stroll  in  the  garden — Its  beauty — Accommodationfl 

— Mission  children — Names — Sufleriiigs  of  the  chief — Improvements 

Miss  Pitman  and  Mr.  Lee — The  two  marriages 73 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Occupations — Harvesting — Mr.  Lee's  expertness — Temperance  meet- 
ings— Ewing  Young  and  his  distillery — Customs  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — Action  of  Gov.  McLaughlin 77 

CHAPTER  X. 

Endeavors  to  reach  home  fiom  Fort  Vancouver  by  a  new  route — Be- 
wilderment in  the  woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory  interview — Hun- 
ger and  weariness  of  the  pony — Despondency — Hunger  and  fatigue 
— Hallooing  for  succor — Seeking  a  place  to  rest — Ascent  into  a  tree 
— Passing  several  hours  in  the  saddle — Bed  on  the  ground — Fears 
of  wild  animals — Wolf  story — Morning — Departure — Steep  hill — 
Suspicions — Sudden  resolution — Reach  the  Willamette — Despond- 
ency— Paddles — Mrs.  Bilake — Hunger  and  disappointment — Duck- 
Odd  reply — "  A  watched  pot  never  boils" — Arrival  at  Mrs.  B's  resi- 
dence— Home 80 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Ladies'  employments — Hard  Fare — Mr.  Leslie's  orrival,  and  also  Mr. 
Perkins's — Close  quarters— New  house — Hearth — Wolves — Doctor 
White  treed — Mrs.  White's  weapon — Cowardice  of  the  animals—' 
The  two  species  of  wolves — Anecdotes — Antelope  hunt  or  "cir- 
cling"— Swarming — Marriage  of  Miss  Johnson  and  Mr.  Perkins — 
Winter  rains — Missionary  meeting — Political  convention — Mr.  Lee's 
return  to  the  I'nited  States — keasons — Missionary  efforts  at  the 
Dalles — Revival  at  the  mission — Startling  report — Death  of  Mrs. 


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C0NTKNT8. 

Lee  and  her  bubo — Dntwing  of  George — Ilia  fonner  escnpc  from 
death  on  the  Seneca  Lake — Mrs.  Whitman's  little  girl  drowned — 
Coincidence 87 


CHAPTER  XII. 

A  call  from  the  Dallee — Mrs.  White,  Mr.  LobHp,  and  Dr.  Bailey  eel  out 
for  that  Btatiou-Rclurn  to  the  Ciipcad.'s— Salmon  pnrly— Visit  nnion(( 
the  natives — The  aged  turned  off  to  die — Portage — Visit  to  an  Indi- 
an burial  place — Dead  housii' — War  club — IJ,e-eiubark — Swift  Cur- 
rent—Conversation— Disaster — Slnigglcs  for  breatli — Mr.  Lcslie'H 
statement — Canoes — Conducted  to  the  shore — The  lifeless  babe — 
Arrival  at  th;  Fort — Reach  the  falls  of  the  Willamette — Strangers — 
Unhappy  night, — Reaeh  home — Letters 95 

CHAPTER  XHI. 

Iliaessof  Mr.  Shepherd — Surgical  operation — Singular  impressions  of 
Mrs.  White — His  death — Benevolent  society — Visit  to  Xavicr'e — 
A  Mother's  anguish — Burying  alive — The  drowned  boy — Outline  of 
Dr.  Bailey's  history — John  Turner — A  hermitage — Turner's  bra- 
very—His seclusion 10r> 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Daniel  Lee's  adventure — Visit  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Beaver — English 
domestic — Visit  from  Dr.  Whitman  and  Gov'nor  and  Mrs.  McLaugh- 
lin— Mode  of  travelling — Mr.  Hall  and  Lady — Party  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — Intermarriage  with  the  natives — Origin  of  the  cus- 
tom— Extract  from  Astoria — Return  of  Mrs.  Lee — News — Effect — 
Oregon  Institute — Agriculture — Mr.  Lee's  course  on  his  first  arrival 
in  the  country — Results — Exploring  tour  to  the  Umpqua  country — 
Willamette  Valley — Umpqua  mountains — Diflicult  assent — A  plan- 
tation— Polite  reception — Return — Meeting  with  an  Indian  party — 
Narrative  of  the  Chief. 116 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Difficulty  with  Mr.  Lee — Extract  from  a  report  of  the  board  of  raia- 
sions — Embarcation — Delightful    voyage    to   the    Islands — Danger 


CONTKNTa. 


XI 


— IVfrs.  W  'b  concern — The  pilot  ngain — Viaitore — Kxploring  pqund- 
ron — Pic-nic — Embark  for  ihe  United  States — Pnnsengi'rt" — Mr. 
Dicli'B  donlh — SocinI  parties — Hailing  a  vessel — Anrrival  in  port — 
Bennett's  express 131 

CIIAPTKR  XV[. 

Trip  to  New  York — Call  on  Mr.  Fry — His  singnlnr  behavior — Intro- 
duotions — Journey  to  Washington — Re  eption — Appointnieiit  to  the 
Sub- Agency — Death — Lizctle — Starting  for  (Oregon — Company — 
Reach  Havana — Separation — Sad  thoughts — An  oUI  friend — Arri- 
val at  Geneva — Curiosity  excited  by  the  Indian  boys — Reach  Buf- 
falo— Milan — Travel  via.  Columbus  to  St.  Louis — Reception — Wil- 
liam Sublet — Kind  reception  at  Indeprirlcncc — Anxieties — Meeting 
of  the  emigration — Resolutions 13ft 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Departure — Emotions — A  friend — Manner  of  camping — Order  of  the 
morning — Dog  slaughter — Sickness  of  a  child — Detained  two  days 
— Difficulty  in  crossing  Caw  river — Increasing  illness  of  the  child — 
Its  death — The  mother  becomes  ill — Mr.  and  Mrs.  L.  obliged  to  re- 
turn— Undulating  country — Big  Blue — Divide — Rainy  night — Buf- 
falo— Platte  river  and  plain — Fuel — Souih  fork  of  the  Platte — Chim- 
ney and  castle — Singular  scenery — Arrival  at  Fort  Laramy — Cost  of 
flour,  etc. — Bridger  and  company — Alarming  incident 147 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Bufialo  Hunting — Mother  Bennett — Tobacco  scrape — Sweetwaer 
Valley — Indian  Village — Preparations  for  defence — Happy  disap- 
pointment— Snow — Great  Divide — Fitz  Patrick's  announcement — 
View — Two  streams — Little  Sandy — Separation — Reach  Green 
river — The  valley — Visit  from  a  grisley  boar — Animating  chase- — 
Another  separation — Difficult  travelling — Slorm — Soda  spring — Ar- 
rival at  Fort  Hall — Set  off  in  company  with  McDonald — Another 
division — Herding  district — Natives — Snake  river — Drowning  of  a 
man — Fort  Boicc — Burnt  River  Valley — Boiling  spring — Doctor  ob- 
tains a  guide  to  Dr.  Whitman's — Arrival  there — Departure  for  WaH^. 


I*.:= 


ii 


H 
a 


ilt 


hi 


I 


m 

ml 


7'::;  I 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


Hi 


^ 


•  I 


walla — Two  days'  stay  there — Formation  of  the  Cascade  Mountains 
— Petrifactions — A  rock — Bluffs — Fort  Vancouver  mills — Willa- 
mette— Excitement  at  the  Doctor's  errival  and  appointment — A 
meeting — Its  doings — Preparations  for  receiving  the  reinforcement — 
Meetings  to  establish  a  provisional  form  of  government — A  tribu- 
nate— Disturbance  among  the  Indians  at  Wallawalla  and  Clearwa- 
ter— Call  for  the  Agent's  interference 158 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

General  excitement — State  of  the  colony — Improper  conduct  of  the  up- 
per country  Indians — Character  of  the  Wallawallas,  Keyuses,  and 
Nez  Perces — Their  disposition  towards  the  missionaries — Mistaken 
course  of  the  missionaries — Their  treatment  of  a  clergyman — Dan- 
gerous situation  of  Dr.  Whitman  among  them — His  kindness — Indi- 
an's treatment  of  Mrs.  W. — Burning  of  the  mission  mills — 111  treat- 
ment of  Mr.  Spalding  and  lady — Expedition  of  the  Sub-Agent — 
Hardships — Reach  Waiilatpu — Appointment  with  the  chiefs — Mr. 
Spalding's  station — Reception — The  Agent's  treatment  of  the  In- 
dians— Public  interview — Speeches  of  McKinley,  Rogers,  and  Mc- 
Kay— Five  Crows,  Bloody  Chief,  and  others — The  Doctor's  statement 
and  advice— Appointment  of  a  high  chief — Feasting — Last  meeting 
—Close — Results  of  Dr.  White's  visit  to  the  Nez  Perces — Laws  of 
the  Nez  Perces — Return  to  Waiilatpu — Keyuse  tribe — Feathercap— 
Touiti's  accusation  against  the  whites — Appointment  for  another 
meeting — Reach  Waacopum — Success — Doings  of  the  missionaries 
— Catholic  missions — Schools — Country  upon  the  Columbia  am)  its 
tributaries,  and  towards  California — Limestone,  &c. — Settlements  at 
the  Willamette — Falatine  Plams — Clatsop  Plains,  &c. — Comparison 
between  a  certain  portion  of  Oregon,  and  the  New  England  States 
— ^Terrible  disaster — Hard  characters — Volcano — Report  of  Mr. 
Spalding — Mr.  Jasen  Lee'sReport 172 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Excitement  among  the  Indians — Different  views  of  the  alarmed  whites 
— Another  journey — State  of  the  Indians — Mr.  Spalding's  station — 
Nez  Perces — Keyuses  and  Wallawailas — Presence  of  the  wbmen  at 


C0NTKHT8. 


lUl 


the  feast — Peace — Visit  the  Dalles— Course  of  the  agent — Laws  of 
the  white  1— Immigrating  party — Willamette  valley — Gov.  McLaugh- 
lin—False  reports — Schools — Mission  claim — Mr.  Lee — Instructions 
to  immigrants — Oregon  Institute — Letters 213 

CHAPTER  XXI, 

Manufacture  of  liquors — Breaking  ap  a  distillery — Conduct  of  Cock- 
stock,  an  Indian — AflVay — Killing  of  Cockstock — Deaths  from  poi- 
soned arrows — Interview  with  the  Indians — Previous  frightful  affair 
with  Cockstock — Alarming  visit  of  fift>'en  Indians — Cold  Blooded 
murder — Presents  to  Cockstock's  widow — Protection  required — Let- 
ter from  Mr.  Hines — Meeting  of  the  legislative  body — Resolution — 
Unhappy  affray — Conduct  in  courta— Resources  of  the  country — Soil 
of  Oregon — Arrival  of  Rev.  Mr.  Desmitt,  nuns  and  priests — Port- 
Exports — Impons — Tour — Schools — Quiet  among  the  Indians- 
Note  from  Mr.  Littlejohn — Fidelity  of  the  Indians — Reasons  for  pre- 
venting the  sale  of  liquor — Enactment  of  the  legislative  committee 
of  Oregon — An  act  to  provide  ways  and  means 228 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

General  health,  etc. — ^Winter  rains — State  of  affairs  between  the  whites 
and  Indians — Chief  of  the  Fallatine  plains — Aggression  by  the  Indi- 
ans—Military assistance  called  for — Communication  of  the  chief — 
Unhandsome  and  unjust  behavior  of  the  Californians — Murder  of  Eli- 
jah Hedding — Ellis  sent  to  the  whites — Salutary  language  and  inter- 
view'— Happy  visit  with  Ellis — Intended  revenge  of  the  aggressed 
party — Invitation  to  the  chiefs — Difficulty  at  fort  Vancouver- 
Suspension  of  hostilities — The  agents  weariness  of  the  unhappy 
state  of  affairs — Dissatisfaction  with  the  government — An  unpleas- 
ant affair  settled — The  colony— -Methodist  institute — Circulating 
medium  needed — Agent's  unpleasant  position— Number  of  Indians — 
Letter  from  Mr.  McLaughlin  and  Douglas — Answer  from  Russell 
and  Stewart — Letter  from  Mr.  Burnett — New  wagon  route — Report 
of  the  sub-agent's  interpreter — Mr.  Lee  relative  to  the  Nez  Perces— 
Letter  from  Mr.  Lovejoy  to  the  secretary  of  war — A  resolution- 
Note  to  Hon.  W.  Medill 239 


m 


xir 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 


Thrilling  story — A  slave  slain  and  buried  with  his  master — Strange 
custom — Inducements  to  the  doctor  to  take  the  journey  home — En- 
deavors to  discover  a  new  route  through  the  Cascade  mountains — 
Scaling  n  mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine  view — Masses  of 
rocks — Mt.  Ilood — Disheartened — Return  to  'he  base  of  the  moun- 
tain— Molalah  Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified  ash — 
Advantages  lor  settling — Deer  and  elk — Wild  cat — New  determina- 
tion— Fine  country — Mounds — Mt.  Spencer— -Ascent  laborious — 
Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous    view — Descent 259 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 


IM 


Indian  encampment — Prairies  and  band  of  Indians — Stream — Separa- 
tion— Spur  of  the  mountains — Horses  left — Indian  village — Singular 
destitution — Embarking  on  the  river — Startling  accident — Swift 
travelling — Sterile  tract — Tide  water — Encamp — Indian  village — 
Craw  fish — Singular  piece  of  meat — Indian  explanation — The  ocean 
— Strip  of  land — Boy — Brown's  claim — Railroad  advantages — Indi- 
an toil — Good  fire — In  sight  of  friends — Breakfast — A  start — A  pres- 
ent— Wolves — Beautiful  country — Arrival  at  the  colony — Petition — 
Start  again  for  the  states — Party  separate — Meeting  at  the  Dalles — 
Indian  encampment — Wedding  here  to-day — Bride  and  bridegroom 
— Dresses — Whimsical  story — Disappointment  in  obtaining  the  bride's 
beautiful  dress — Murderous  afTair — Interesting  account — Deserter — 
Another  threatened — John  Day  river — Saucy  Indians — VVallawallae 
— A  halt — Visitors  and  presents — Agriculture  and  its  effects — Hot 
Spring — Alarm — Keyuscs  and  Ncz  Perces — Alarming  report — Guard 
— Emigration — Letters — St.  Joseph's  company—- Mr.  Fisher's  eager- 
ness for  news — A  meal — Odd  reason  for  lagging  behind — Chance  for 
carrying  a  \^'Acr — Roguish  girls — Fort  Hall — Ru)iaway  horse.,..  270 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Showers — Soda  Springs — Dr.  Burke — Pleasant  interview — Green  river 
— Great  change — New  route — Sterile  and  forbidding  country — Sum- 
mit level — Uncomfortable  night— Contrast — Divide— "  Home,  sweet 


li 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


home" — A  liai! — oabbalh  travelling — Weather — Dreary  pass — Ani- 
mals— Bear — Sweetwater  valley — Independence  rock — Solitary  walk 
—Halt — Ravine — Snow — lied  blufl'— Camp  on  the  Platte — Buflalo 
— Needleas  fears — Ilumhug — Three  grizzly  bears — Signs  of  Indians 
— Nondescript — Indian  and  family — Signs  of  danger — Herd  of  hor- 
ses— Attempt  to  es'Tipe  observation — Failure — An  old  mnn — Kind 
reception — Ilnndsoino  ofler — An  American — P'easting — Smoking — 
Reasonable  request — I']ncampmoni — Two  Frenchmen — fJood  meal 
— Warm  spring — Fort  Laranny — .Mr.  Tappan — Fligibility  for  a  mil- 
itary post 3^it> 

CIIAPTJCR  XXVI. 

Chapman's  return  fur  the  minute  book — Hard  time — .\  move — Return 
— White  men — The  Platte — Art  nature — Platte  crane — Polecat — 
Abh  creek — Thompson — A  present — Wolves — Kill  a  buffalo — A 
robbery — Woodless  plafte,  valley,  etc. — Dread — History  of  a  lump  of 
sa^jar — Singular  circumstance — Sabbaih  niorrring— Weather — Buf- 
t'alo — Birds — Antelope,  etc, — Length  of  the  buflalo  district — Lur^^e 
herd — Express — Warning  of  da  igor — A  sign  of  danger — Pawnees 
— Unpleasant  interruption — Pack-horse  frightened — Troul  lesome 
Indian — Departure — Filing — Another  interruption — Number  of  Indi- 
ans— Madness  of  atleini)ting  to  contend — Brown  and  Saxton — Coat 
taken — A  blow — Hard  ujago — A  protector — A  ride  on  horse-back — 
S  ixton — Little  demons — A  council — Delicate  fea?f — Council  more 
luoJerate — Another  confujc.ition — "Bad  people  behind" — Not  to  In* 
galled — Saxtoii's  vii:itor — Package  of  manuscripts — Preparation  to 
start — Kind  old  squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant  surprise — Advanta- 
geous trade  proposed — Kind  interference — Forced  trade — Final  con- 
clusion— Dr.  Sattrrly 297 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Departure — Prairie  on  fire — Sirong  wind — Raw  corn — Thirst- — Dreams 
— Poo: — Indians — Ruse — Living  on  raw  corn — Big  Bine — CJrove — 
Wild  turkey — I/iciiy  shot — Po3tpon<^ment  of  a  feast — Sabbath — Bad 
night — Indian  and  family  flour — Nice  bread — Fi'ozen  squashes — 
Residence  of  Mr.  Fish — Beautiful  country — Westport — Mr.  Brown — 
Independence — Divine  worship — Visit  to  the  mission 308 


if  .,v 

■f' 

it.  ii 


'3 


m 


.Vr.'J 
hi 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


1 


!i 


'; 


1  ■■ 


11 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


\ 


Outline  of  journey  to  Washington — Gracious  reccplion— .Thoughts  o 
home — Meeting  with  friends  in  New  York  city — Reach  Ithaca — 
Arrival  home — Letter  to  the  editor  of  a  western  paper — Decrease  of 
the  Indian  population  in  Oregon — ^Timbers  of  Oregon — Fossils — 
Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators  of  Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong 
of  the  government  in  not  extending  jurisdiction  over  Oregon — Treat- 
ment of  public  officers — Treatment  of  Dr.  White 314 


I'll 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


CHAPTER  I. 


E 


^  r 


CircumBtances  ^hich  suggested  to  Dr.  White  the  project  of  going  to 
Oregon — Emotions  of  Mrs.  White — Announcing  to  the  Board  of 
Missions  their  willingness  to  go — Appointment  received — Coinci- 
dence— Reception  at  New  York  and  Boston — Embarkation — Friends 
accompany  them  a  few  miles  out — Parting — Number  and  descrip- 
tion  of  the  mission  party — Children. 


••.  ■:    I 


During  the  intense  frost  that  prevailed  in  the  midst  of 
the  great  conflagration  of  '36  at  New  York,  Dr.  .White 
came  in  from  a  professional  ride,  and  shivering  with  cold, 
seated  himself  by  the  fire;  and  while  warming  his  be- 
numbed fingers,  took  up  the  Christian  Advocate  for  a  few 
moments'  perusal,  and,  glancing  over  its  contents,  sud- 
denly, in  his  usual  jocular  manner,  observed  to  Mrs.  W,, 
that  there  was  a  call  for  them  from  Oregon ;  that  the 
board  of  missions  advertised  for  a  clergy^nan,  physician, 
..^cc  &c.,  and  as  he  could  act  in  the  capacity  of  pill-pedler, 
he  thought  it  might  be  well  to  respond  thereto.  She  did 
not  immediately  answer ;  and  looking  up,  he  was  surprised 
to  find  her  weeping.  This  seemed  to  him  singular,  as  her 
disposition  was  so  unusually  cheerful,  and  it  was  so  seldom 
that  there  was  a  trace  of  tears  to  be  found  upon  her  cheek, 
especially,  as  he  thought,  for  so  trivial  a  cause.  In  some 
confusion  and  mortification,  he  begged  her  not  to  allow  hia 


t.'i 


Mil 


M 


f^ 


I"! 


k 

I  III 


18 


TEN  YEARS   IN    ORKOON. 


nonsense  to  cause  her  uneasiness  ;  assuring  her,  he  was  but 
jesting.  Still  she  wept  in  silence,  till,  after  a  pause  of  seve- 
ral moments,  she  struggled  for  composure,  seated  herself 
by  his  side,  extended  her  hand  for  the  paper,  and  twice 
looking  over  the  notice,  she  related  to  him  the  sensations 
with  which  she  had  ever  traced  the  map  of  the  Columbia 
river.*  She  farther  remarked,  that  if  he  could  so  arrange 
his  affairs  as  to  render  it  consistent  for  him  to  go  to  Oregon, 
she  would  place  no  obstacle  in  his  way,  and  with  her  moth- 
er's consent  would  willingly  accompany  him.  This  was  so 
unlike  her  usially  matter-of-fact  language,  and  seemed,  in- 
deed, so  visionary,  that  he  was  astounded,  and  in  his  turn, 
speechless.  Becoming  composed,  they  calmly  discussed  the 
matter,  and  eventually  decided  that  prudence  demanded 
their  remaining  at  home,  maugre  childish  impressions. 
They  confess,  that,  whenever  they  afterwards  thought  of 
this  incident,  it  always  provoked  a  smile,  although  it  never 
failed  to  interest,  serving  forcibly  to  illustrate  from  what 
casualties  sometimes  spring  strange  and  momentous  results ; 
xis,  till  this  moment,  they  had  no  more  thought  of  engaging 
in  such  an  enterprise,  than  of  a  trip  to  the  moon. 


I  "i  if 


I 

u 

llfi 


I  n 

S!, 

I 
;  HI 


*  Mrs,  White  relates,  that  frem  childhood,  while  pursuing  the  study  ol 
Geography,  the  Columbia  river,  and  its  adjoining  country,  had  always 
created  in  her  mind  a  deep  and  absorbing  interest.  Not  that  she  had  any 
reasonable  expectation  of  ever  visiting  it,  but  for  hours  she  would  sit, 
wrapped  in  contemplation,  her  feelings  and  attention  drawn  towards 
that  region  of  the  world,  in  an  inconceivably  strong  and  singular  man- 
ner. It  may  seem  a  superstition,  but,  in  after  years,  this  was  explain- 
ed by  a  circumstance  which  will  ever  causa  her  heart  to  throb  with 
peculiar  emotion. 

[Reference  is  here  had  to  her  own  narrow  escape,  and  the  drowning 
of  her  little  son,  in  the  Columbia  river.    See  chapter  12.] 


'■if 


TEN   YEARS   IN    ORKQON. 


19 


Ining 


Up  to  this  period,  the  board  of  missions  of  tlio  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  had  never  employed  a  physician  in  any 
foreign  field.  But  this  was  emphatically  a  time  of  singular 
adventure,  and  the  spirit  of  enterprise  had  seized  upon  all 
ranks  and  departments  of  business.  Nor,  in  their  benev- 
olent operations,  did  the  Christian  churches  stand  still,  in 
the  busy  round.  Various  were  the  calls  from  heathen 
climes,  and  ready  were  the  responses.  Africa,  China,  Bur- 
ma, India,  and  the  Isles  of  the  South  Sea,  were  not  the  only 
quarters  from  which  had  arisen  the  macedon  cry.  The 
calls  from  the  Pacific  had  been  heard,  and  the  gladdening 
results  of  labors  in  the  Sandwich  groups  and  Society  Isles, 
urged  on  to  farther  and  more  glorious  conquests.  Last, 
but  not  least,  came  the  cry  from  Oregon's  dark  mountains 
and  savage  plains.  The  thrill  of  the  appeal  of  the  Flat- 
head delegation  was  electric,  and  fired  the  churches  with  a 
spirit  of  noble  emulation.  The  Lees,  Parker,  Whitman,  and 
Spaulding,  were  the  first  to  respond. 

A  fortnight  passed  on ;  not  without  some  reflection  on 
the  subject,  and  the  Advocate  announced  that  the  required 
compliment  had  been  completed,  physician  excepted.  After 
more  mature  dehberation,  Dr.  W.  addressed  the  secretary  of 
the  board,  stating  that  if  no  more  satisfactory  offers  were 
made,  he  was  at  their  service.  Ten  days  later,  a  letter 
arrived  from  Dr.  Bangs,  containing  his  appointment,  and 
requesting  him  to  be  in  readiness  to  sail  in  a  few  weeks 
from  Boston,  via.  Sandwich  Islands,  to  Oregon.  Mrs.  W. 
still  retained  her  determination  to  accompany  her  husband, 
though,  till  she  saw  the  appointment  and  its  publicatioD, 
she  scarce  realized  a  possibility  of  a  necessity  of  her  doing 
The  thought  that  they  were  now  to  leave,  probably 


so. 


for  ever,  their  dear  home  and  dearer  friends,  was  a  sad  one, 


^ 


TEN  TBAnS   IN   OllKOON. 


i  ■ 


r 
(      ♦ 


4 

I 

I 

i 


Ml 


'  \  "if 

Hi 


-;* 


'tod  she  shed  tears  of  regret,  though  not  of  reluctance,  to 
^1^.     She  pictured  to  herself  her  mother's  anguish,  at  what 
must  be  very  like  consigning  her  only  daughter  to  the  grave. 
'*hic  anticipated  separation  from  that  mother  who  had  nursed 
her  so  tenderly,  and  loved  her  with  the  tireless,  changeless 
'affection  which  the  maternal  heart  only  knows,  filled  her 
Vith  sorrow.     However,  by  a  fortunate  coincidence,  they 
Were  spared  the  painful  scene  they  had  feared,  and  obtained 
^iier  consent  with  little  difficulty.     When  they  visited  her  for 
Itiat  purpose,  she  had  just  been  reading,  for  the  first  time, 
^*iiie  life  of  Mrs.  Juds(Hi ;  and  the  example  oX.  this  excellent 
tady  had  so  interested  her,  that,  when  their  project  was  laid 
'*feefore  her,  she  listened  with  comparative  calmness ;  and, 
though  somewhat  astonished,  was  willing  they  should  go 
where   duty  led   them.     This,  in  some   measure,  relieved 
Mrs.  White  ;  and,  with  a  lightened  heart,  and  more  compo- 
•sure,  she  set  about  the  necessary  preparations.     In  a  short 
time,  all  was  in  readiness ;  the  last  farewell  wept,  rather 
than  spoken ;  the  last  yearning  look  lingered  on  cherished 
objects,  and  they  were  on  their  way  to  Oregon.     At  New 
York  they  were  received  with  the  utmost  cordiality,  and 
warm,  kindly  feeling,  for  which  that  city  has  been  so  justly 
distinguished.     On  the  day  that  their  eldest  son  was  one 
year  old,  they  embarked  for  Boston,  where  they  were  like- 
wise received  with  a  kindness  and  attention  worthy  of  en- 
suring their  lasting  gratitude.     During  their  stay,  their  time 
was  mostly  occupied  in  making  purchases  of  utensils  for  the 
future  comfort  of  themselves  and  others  of  the  expedition, 
in  their  far-off  destination.     At  last  all  was  completed,  and 
they  embarked  on  board  the  ship  Hamilton,  Capt.  S.  Bar- 
ker, for  the   Sandwich   Islands ;  and   some  tliirty  of  the 
friends    proposed    escorting    the   mission    family   a   short 


TKN  YEARS   IN   ORSOON. 


ai 


distpancc  on  their  way.  For  this  purpose,  they  also  went 
on  board,  hiring  a  pilot  boat  to  accompany  the  ship.  They, 
enjoyed  a  delightful  season  together,  although  the  missioa- 
aries  felt  .as  though  about  to  be  torn  for  ever  from  those  con- 
nected to  them  by  ties  of  real  friendship,  for  they  accounted 
them  dear  as  though  they  liad  known  them  for  years  instead 
of  days.  Their  enjoyment  was  brici',  however,  as  it  was  late 
in  the  day,  and  they  were  soon  out  of  sight  of  land.  At 
the  end  of  two  hours  they  were  compelled  to  separate. 
That  tlieir  adieus  were  sorrowful,  may  not  be  doubted , 
indeed,  this,  or  any  other  word  in  our  language,  is  inade- 
quate to  describe  the  emotions  of  the  party.  As  the  pilot 
boat  dropped  roimd  the  stem  of  the  vessel,  its  occupante 
waved  their  handkerchiefs,  and  simultaneously  began  sing- 
ing a  farewell  missionary  hymn.  The  efifect  was  electric ! 
Some  rushed  to  the  side  in  agony,  as  though  they  would 
recal  the  departing  ones,  and  return  with  them  to  their  na.- 
tive  land.  Others  covered  their  faces,  and  tears  streamed 
through  the  trembling  fingers  ;  and  sobs  shook  the  frames 
of  even  strong  men.  They  thought  not  of  formalities ;  in 
that  hour  it  was  not  a  shame  for  the  sterner  sex  to  weep. 
The  forms  of  their  friends  fast  lessenca  in  the  distance,  and 
at  last  their  boat  looked  like  a  speck  on  the  wave,  and  tl^c 
sweet  cadences  of  that  beautiful  song,  faintly  rilling  along  ifi 
their  hearing  like  the  sigh  of  an  angel,  were  the  last  sounds 
that  reached  them  from  the  home  of  civilization.  WiH» 
hushed  respimtion,  bowed  heads,  and  straining  ears,  they 
listened  to  its  low  breathings,  now  wafted  gently  and  sooth- 
ingly to  them  on  the  breeze,  then  dying  away,  and  finally 
lost  in  the  whisperings  of  wind  and  w  ives.  It  is  folly  to 
attempt  description,  but  for  weeks  did  it  haunt  their  slizm- 
bers,  while  tossing  upon  the  treacherous  deep ;  and  it  came 


■<tik  -i  I 


TT 


9t 


TEW   TEARS    IN    OREOOIT. 


i; 


ill 


not  alone,  for  with  it  were  fair  visions  of  parents,  home, 
brothers  and  sisters,  joyous  childhood  and  youth,  and  every 
thing  they  had  known  at  home,  floated  in  vivid  pictures  be- 
fore them,  touched  by  the  fairy  pencil  of  the  dream-angel. 

Incessantly  engaged  in  preparation  while  on  shore,  they 
had  had  no  opportunity  of  making  the  acquaintance  of  those 
who  were  to  be  their  ship  companions.  They  now  exerted 
themselves  to  do  so,  and  soon  succeeded,  sympathy  drawing 
them  together,  for  they  must  now  look  to  one  another  for 
that  comfort  which  w^as  denied  them  from  every  other  earthly 
source.  The  company  consisted  of  thirteen  individuals : 
three  young  ladies — A  Miss  Downing,  engaged  to  Mr. 
Shepherd,  who  had  previously  gone  out  in  an  expedition ; 
Miss  Johnson,  and  a  Miss  Pitman,  who  afterwards  married 
Mr.  Jason  Lee,  who  was  also  in  Oregon ;  Mr.  Beers,  a  black- 
smith, from  Connecticut,  his  wife  and  three  children ;  Mr. 
Wilson,  a  carpenter,  from  New  Bedford ;  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
White,  George,  their  adopted  son,  and  their  babe. 

A  more  particular  notice  of  some  of  these  persons  might 
be  interesting  to  the  reader,  and  I  will  begin  with  Mr.  Beers. 

He  was  a  man  of  low  stature,  rather  dark  complexion,  thin 
Tisage,  rigid  puritanical  manners,  and  well  versed  in  scrip- 
ture, ever  stoutly  insisting  on  all  coming  to  his  landmark, 
his  righteous  soul  chafing  sorely  pt  the  least  departure  of 
his  friends  from  his  golden  rule.  Being  rather  bilious,  it  in- 
creased the  austerity  of  his  manners,  which  failed  to  render 
him  a  favorite  with  either  crew  or  passengers. 

Mrs.  Beers  was  of  medium  height,  round  favored,  philo- 
sophical turn  of  mind,  docile,  quiet  temperament,  and  per- 
fectly obedient  to  her  husband,  as  the  reader  might  suppose 
she  had  best  be,  after  the  above  description  of  him. 

Mr.  Wilson  was  five  feet  ten  inches  in  height,  cheerful, 


Kt. 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


23 


sympathetic,  and  affectionate,  fond  of  relating  old  8ea  stories, 
for  he  had  been  quite  an  experienced  whaler.  A  peculiar 
characterititio,  and  a  strange  one  for  a  man,  was  an  almost 
childish  partiality  for  cats ;  and  as  there  were  none  on  board, 
he  made  a  pet  of  a  beautiful  kid,  whose  head  he  would  comb 
and  caress  for  an  hour  together,  talking  to  it  the  while  as 
though  it  was  a  human  being.  While  here,  I  will  give  the 
sequel  of  its  short  life.  As  they  approached  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  it  became  necessary  to  repair  the  ship ;  and  Tip, 
partaking  too  freely  of  the  paint  which  had  been  left  within 
his  reach,  Avas  consequently  thrown  into  a  decline,  and 
yielded  up  his  breath  before  they  entered  port,  lamented  by 
all,  as  the  little  creature,  by  its  affectionate  playfulness,  had 
much  endeared  itself  to  them. 

Miss  Pitman,  from  New  York,  was  rather  tall,  with  black 
eyes  and  hair,  resolute  and  persevering,  fervently  pious,  and 
possessing  considerable  poetic  genius. 

Miss  Downing,  of  Lynn,  Massachusetts,  had  dark  hair, 
blue  eyes,  elegant  form  ;  exhibited  taste  and  neatness  in  her 
attire,  and  was  much  beloved  by  her  companions,  and  always 
remembered  by  them  with  pleasure  and  respect. 

Miss  Johnson,  also,  had  dark  hair  and  blue  eyes,  and  fair 
complexion  ;  and,  if  not  really  beautiful,  she  was  very  win- 
ning and  engaging,  ever  truly  devoted,  but  of  cheerful, 
happy  disposition.  She  was  lovely  and  amiable,  desirous  of 
rendering  herself  useful,  in  which  she  so  well  succeeded 
wliilc  in  Oregon.  A  purer,  more  truly  missionary  spirit,  and 
one  more  zealous  in  the  work  to  which  she  had  devoted  her- 
self, has  not,  perhaps,  as  yet,  visited  that  distant  clime. 

As  children  are  my  pets,  I  will  depart  from  the  custom  of 
many  authors,  and  talk  of  them  for  a  few  moments,  and  then 
relate  some  of  the  incidents  of  the  voyage.     George  was  the 


>1 


fU 


^i 


it 


TKI^'  TSARfl'  Ili'  Onk'OON. 


f  ■ 


I 


son  of  a  poor  widow  in  Havana.  He  was  a  round  favored, 
plump  little  follow,  much  attached  to  his  hook,  and  of  sin- 
gularly inttillectual  ciist.  His  memory  Avas  extraordinary. 
Few,  either  man  or  hoy,  could  compete  with  him  in  this  re- 
spect. His  narrow  escape  from  drowning  in  tln!  Seneca  Lake, 
together  with  his  dreadful  fsitc  in  Oregon,  will  he  brought  in, 
more  appropriately,  at  another  time.  Mr.  Beers'  eldest 
daughter  was  a  very  frank,  happy  young  girl,  perhaps  some- 
what of  a  hoyden,  as  young  girls  will  occasionally  bo.  She 
was  very  fond  of  Benny,  and  they  enjoyed  extremely  well 
the  sports  of  Mr.  Wilson  with  the  kid ;  and  the  vessel  often 
rang  with  their  noisy  shouts  of  merriment,  as  they  frolicked 
together.  Benny  was  a  child  with  piercing,  laughing  black 
eyes  ;  in  short,  a  pretty  babe,  and  afterwards  a  fine  boy. 
There  was  his  little  sister,  Eleanor,  who  was  a  great  talker, 
like  many  of  her  sex,  affording  the  elder  one  much  amuse- 
ment by  her  lisping  prattle.  Children,  so  far  from  contrib- 
uting to  the  enjoyment  of  people  generally,  are  often  con- 
sidered annoyances ;  yet  the  artless  chatter  and  playful 
pranks  of  these,  greatly  dispelled  the  gloom  and  ennui  which 
would  sometimes  steal  over  the  ship. 


-:   T"  ina^ 


TKjr   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


w 


CHAPTER  II. 


Firit  dinner  on  board.  Effect  of  change  of  diet — Water ;  ita  acar- 
city — Swearing — Flying  fiah — Shark — Mother  Carty'a  Chickena— 
Employment — Reaching  the  LIquator — Neptune — Ainuaing  accne— • 
Storm — Plate  of  Ham. 

'tiiK  departure  of  their  friends  left  the  mis.sionarics*  feel- 
ings so  harrowed,  that  they  had  little  appetite  for  their  din- 
ner. However,  when  called,  they  descended  to  the  cabin, 
and  tlu!  table  and  its  appurtenances  were  before  them. — 
The  table  was  about  twenty  feet  in  length,  fastened  to  the 
deck,  and  the  benches  likewise ;  other  scats  they  then  saw 
rtone.  They  seated  themselves,  and  the  viands  were  served. 
A  turrecn  of  bean  soup,  in  the  first  instance  sufficiently 
W6ak,  but  again  diluted,  so  that  its  richness  could  in  no  wise 
injure  the  digestion,  was  placed  before  them.  This  was  dis- 
posed of,  as  well  as  possible,  hope  suggesting  that  something 
tt6re  palatable  would  next  present  itself.  Next  came  some 
hard  sea  biscuit,  and  a  large,  uncouth  piece  of  half-boiled 
beef,  at  which  they  gazed  with  rueful  faces,  scarce  daring  to 
hope  for  sufficient  strength  of  jaw  for  its  mastication,  and 
ifivoluntarily  wishing  for  more  of  the  before  despised  bean 
Soiip.  Dr.  White's  little  son  was  but  thirteen  months  old; 
and  with  what  management  they  were  to  keep  him  alive,  on 
such  food,  was  beyond  his  parents*  comprehension.  How- 
ever, they  submitted  with  the  best  grace  they  could,  think- 
big  that  the  dessert  might  be  more  acceptable.  But  they 
iiad  no  sooner  eaten  what  they  thought  proper  of  this  deli- 


t   . 


^k' 


a 


Ui'] 


1 


26 


TEN   YEARS  IM   OREOOK. 


; 


h  i 


i:  I 


cacy,  than  the  captain  deliberately  arose,  and  the  meal  was 
ended,  minus  dessert.  But  this  was  an  unfair  example  of 
their  gen<;ral  living,  as  the  ship  was  now  in  the  confusion  of 
getting  under  way ;  it  was  subsequently,  however,  a  grade 
higher. 

But  the  great  change  from  milk  and  light  food,  to  the 
crude  materials  more  suitable  for  adults,  engaged  in  manual 
labor,  soon  produced,  in  Silas,  unfavorable  symptoms,  which 
terminated  in  an  inflammation  of  the  stomach,  and  the  poor 
little  fellow  suffered  incredibly.  Of  vegetables,  they  had 
ten  bushels,  severally,  of  mingled  potatoes,  onions,  beans,  and 
beats ;  but  the  potatoes  had  been  gathered  in  July,  and  were 
consequently  withered  and  shrivelled,  till  both  taste  and  sus- 
tenance weie  nearly  gone. 

Want  of  good  water  was  another  great  annoyance.  That 
which  was  on  board  was  drawn  from  a  filthy  pool,  near  Bos- 
ton, both  officers  and  sailors  declaring  it  better  than  if  taken 
from  springs,  as  it  would  work  itself  clear  from  all  impurities. 
The  passengers  presumed  to  indulge  the  suspicion  that  the 
indolence  of  the  hands  might  have  furnished  the  true  reason. 
It  was  contained  in  old  casks,  which  had  been  unfit  for  use, 
but  for  another  equally  satisfactory  excuse,  namely,  that 
green  wood  emitted  deleterious  properties,  and  consequently, 
tlie  older  the  vessel  the  better  the  contents.  At  any  rate, 
both  these  causes,  however  good,  failed  to  accomplish  the  de- 
sired object ;  as,  to  be  near  a  cask,  while  it  was  being  opened, 
was  very  sickening,  for  a  more  foeted,  repulsive  scent,  was 
never  smclled.  Frequently,  after  rendering  the  water  as 
pleasant  and  palatable  ls  possible,  and  presenting  it  to  the 
sick  boy,  he  would  refuse  it,  with  a  most  unqualified  expres- 
sion of  disgust  on  his  little  face.  Even  of  this,  they  had  not 
sufficient  for  the  whole  voyage ;  and  as  they  passed  under 


I 


th 

sc 
th 


a'  1 


if 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


27 


the  equator,  during  the  frequent  storms,  they  stopped  the 
scuppers  with  swabs,  .and  thus  obtained  fresh  supplies.  Of 
this  they  had  many  good  cups  of  tea  and  coflfec,  though 
still  not  as  pure  as  they  could  wish,  as  it  was  the  tarry 
drenchings  of  the  rigging  and  sailors'  clothes,  and  washings 
of  the  deck ;  but  it  was  more  endurable  than  the  water  from 
the  casks.  Had  it  not  been  for  these  providential  showers, 
they  must  have  been  put  on  allowance ;  as  it  was,  during 
the  whole  voyage,  they  had  not  an  article  washed,  larger 
than  a  pocket  handkerchief,  or  a  dress  for  the  little  ones. 
It  was  very  unpleasant  and  inconvenient ;  and  they  often 
thought  of  those  on  shore,  who  would  have  considered  it  a 
hardship  if  they  could  not  have  had  their  raiment  cleansed 
once  a  week. 

Being  unacquainted  with  all  the  preparations  necessary, 
Mrs.  W.  hud  furnished  herself  with  only  a  few  changes  for 
Silas,  and  he  suffered  much  in  consequence.  When  they 
arrived  at  the  Sandvf  ich  Islands,  she  became  much  indebted 
to  the  kindness  of  the  missionary  Udies,  who  presented  her 
with  apparel  more  than  sufficient  for  the  voyage  to  the  Co- 
lumbia, it  being  little  mOw  than  one-fifth  the  length  of  the 
first. 

Having  heard  much  of  the  profanity  of  sailors,  they 
were  surprised  at  never  hearing  a  single  oath  escape  their 
lips,  save  once,  on  an  occasion  of  extreme  danger,  being 
nearly  run  into  by  another  ship,  and  were  persuaded  that 
such  reports  were  mere  exaggerations.  However  this  may 
be,  it  is  probable  the  presence  of  the  missionaries  had  a  re- 
straining effect  upon  the  hardy  tars. 

The  reports  respecting  the  flying  fish,  our  friends  had 
almost  regarded  as  fabulous,  ranking  with  stories  of  mer- 
maids ;  but  they  w^ere  now  convinced  of  their  truthfulness. 


) ." 


m 
II 


4 


28 


TEN  YKARS   IN    OREGON. 


li,' 


r 


I 


■n 


If 


This  species  of  fish  is  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in 
length,  justly  proportioned,  resembling,  in  form,  the  brooli 
trout.  They  were  always  found  in  shoals,  sometimes  fol- 
lowing the  ship  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  frequently, 
during  the  night,  (probably  attracted  by  the  lights,)  fell  on 
deck,  from  which,  being  unable  to  rise,  they  were  easily, 
caught,  and  submitted  to  the  curious  scrutiny  of  the  passen- 
gers. Their  wings  were  somewlxat  like  those  of  the  bat, 
issuing  from  their  sides,  at  about  one-third  the  distance 
from  the  head  to  the  tail,  resembling  a  fin,  save  that  they 
were  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  body,  measuring, 
when  extended,  from  ten  to  twelve  niches.  The  distance 
whicli  they  were  able  to  fly,  when  out  of  tlie  water,  though 
they  did  so  with  great  rapidity,  did  not  exceed  fifteen  ro(fe. 
They  were  often  seen  pursued  by  the  dolphin,  which  seemed 
to  be  their  relentless  persecutor,  as  well  as  that  of  many  of 
the  smaller  fishes.  This  fish  was  from  four  to  seven  feet  in 
length,  peculiarly  nimble  and  active  in  its  habits,  beautifully 
colored,  and  when  out  of  the  water,  the  tints  constantly 
changing  to  every  variety  of  hue  and  shade.  The  sailors,  con- 
trasting it  with  their  salt  meats,  regard  it  a  delicacy — the 
landsmen,  tolerable. 

A  sort  of  exercise  in  which  the  sailors  delighted,  was 
shark  fishing.  They  would  mount  into  the  chains  with  an 
oflScer,  and,  decoying  their  victims,  haul  them  on  board, 
their  helpless  flounv^erings  affordmg  infinite  amusement  and 
excitement,  and  sometimes  not  a  little  affrig'  to  the  spec- 
tators. 

Often,  too,  they  received  visits  from  the  bird,  about  thr 
size  of  our  wren,  so  far-faraed  as  mothor  Carey's  chickens, 
the  origin  of  which  name  the  sailors  gave  as  follows :  A 
widowed  woman  from  the  Emerald  Isle,  came  from  thence 


'mi*  ■ 
11 


w 


TKN   YBARF   IN    OREOON. 


(S9 


to  this  countiy.  During  the  voyage,  a  storm  arc^e,  and  she 
observed  the  little  creatures  fluttcrmg  about  among  the 
masts  and  cordage,  and  the  boys  amusing  themselves  by 
capturing  them.  Her  Irish  heart  rebelled  against  this,  and, 
much  afflicted,  she  cried  out,  "  Och,  murthcr,  murther ! 
and  don't  kill  the  trimblin  crathers !  Don't  hamn  me  pure 
checkens !" 

Our  friends  were  sometimes  troubled  for  something  to 
"busy  themselves  about,  and  the  order  of  the  day  was  gene- 
rally as  follows :     On  leaving  their  state  rooms  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  first  biLsiness  was  ablution.     This  was  not  a  pleas- 
ant operation,  as  they  were  obliged  to  perform  it  with  salt 

•  water,  and  the  saline  properties  evinced  more  of  a  disposi- 
tion to  adhere  to  the  skin  than  was  quite  agreeable  ;  hence 
the  task  of  wiping  and  rubbing  was  more  satisfactory  than 
that  of  washing.     If  the  weather  was  mild,  the  quarter  deck 

•  became  the  resort,  where  they  amused  themselves  by  read- 
•faig  or  walking  till  the  breakfast  call,  which  was  usually 
■  about  eight  o'clock. 

This  ceremony  over,  they  returned  to  much  the  same  em- 
ployments till  the  hour  of  dining.     This  was  the  important 
meal  of  the  day,  and  they  were  sometimes  treated  to  a  des- 
sert, which  consisted  of  boiled  rice  pudding,  and,  the  great- 
''  est  luxury  of  all,  a  mince  pic,  compounded  of  corned  pork 
or  beef,  sea  biscuit,  dried  apples  of  questionable  character, 
"and  a  smart  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper.     Dinner  conclud- 
ed, which  left  them  in  the  best  possible  humor,  they  gene- 
rally took  a  siesta  of  an  hour  or  two.     After  this  refreshing, 
'■  they  foimd  the  shade  of  the  awning  quite  grateful,  as  it  was 
'now  the  warmest  part  of  the  day,  being  between  one  and 
'four  o'clock.     They  again  resorted  to  their  books,  till,  wea- 
rying of  this,  after  being  out  a  few  weeks,  it  required  some- 


m 

Pi 

m 


:.■    Ik. 
'-,■-<■ 


30 


TEN   TEARS  IN    OREGON. 


'  ■     ;<• 


ii 


I   I 


r 


thing  unusually  exciting  to  interest  them,  and  they  felt,  if 
they  could  only  step  into  a  bookstore  and  procure  something 
new,  it  would  be  an  inestimable  privilege.  The  little  stock 
of  reading  was  soon  exhaustec^  and  they  were  without  re- 
source of  this  kind. 

They  were  from  the  29th  of  July  to  the  9th  September, 
being  about  five  weeks,  reaching  the  equator;  and  had  lis- 
tened to  a  great  many  sailor  yams  respecting  the  wicked 
practices  of  Neptune,  and  looked  forward  to  the  crossing 
with  some  expectation  of  witnessing  an  exhibition  of  his 
pranks.  They  stated,  that,  as  often  as  a  ship  neared  the 
seat  of  his  poAver,  he  came  on  board  with  his  queen,  tritons, 
and  attendants  ;  and  if  there  were  any  green  hands  on  board, 
they  Avere  sure  to  suffer.  lie  generally  forced  their  accep- 
tance of  a  coat  of  tar,  well  napped  witli  feathers  ;  and  for 
several  days  their  faces  would  not  recover  from  the  severe 
fthaving  they  had  received  in  the  shape  of  scraping.  At  the 
eventful  period,  the  cabin  boy  Billy  was  obliged  to  undergo 
some  ceremony  of  the  kind,  the  particulars  of  which  they 
could  never  learn ;  but  the  poor  fellow  was  dreadfully  fright- 
ened, and  it  is  probable  the  crew  played  upon  him  some  se- 
vere joke. 

There  was  rather  an  amusing  scene  when  the  sun  was  first 
discovered  directly  over  head.  The  doctor  was  aware  they 
were  about  far  enough  to  the  south  to  see  it  in  this  position ; 
and  one  day,  about  twelve  o'clock,  placing  himself  in  a  pos- 
ture so  that  he  could  have  a  clear  view  of  it,  he  suddenly 
sprang  up,  and  cried  out  loudly,  "  Stand  from  under ! — 
don't  you  see  we  shall  be  da.shcd  to  atoms  ?  Stand  from 
under !"  There  were  many  idlers  lounging  about  the  deck, 
and  at  the  shout,  they  ran  in  a  panic  from  their  several 
places,  and  stared  about  in  every  direction  but  the  right. 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


81 


Apprehending  no  danger  from  the  "  god  of  day,"  their 
thoughts  never  once  pointed  to  him ;  and  they  could  sec  no 
cause  for  the  cry.  Turning  their  eyes  to  the  doctor,  they 
saw  him  laugliing,  and  immediately  suspected  thoy  had  been 
gulled,  lie  pointed  upward,  and  instantly  comprehending 
the  ruse,  they  enjoyed  a  hearty  laugh. 

They  were  now  approaching  the  most  dangeroas  part  of 
the  voyage,  and  did  not  pass  the  ordeal  unscathed.  In  a 
few  days  they  were  near  where  the  Amazon  empties  into  the 
sea ;  and  such  a  vast  volume  of  water  rushing  towards  them 
in  one  direction,  and  the  winds  in  a  contrary,  the  vessel  was 
often  very  violently  agitated.  It  was  thought  they  were  in 
considerable  danger ;  but  it  was  slight  compared  with  what 
they  soon  experienced  from  the  most  terriffic  storm  they 
encountered.  The  clouds  began  looming  in  the  west,  the 
breeze  to  whistle  more  shiilly ;  and  the  passengers,  who  on 
these  occasions  are  more  than  usually  alert,  observed  the 
officers  interchanging  looks  of  meaning,  and  issuing  orders 
in  low  tones  of  stern  decision;  and  that  the  men  went  t«t 
their  duty  with  more  than  ordinary  readiness  and  alacrity, 
with  few  words,  as  though  much  were  depending  upon 
their  movements.  Mr.  Beers  sidled  coaxingly  along  to  the 
captain,  and  modestly  enquired,  "Capt.  Barker,  is  thcr»'' 
danger?"  With  a  shrug  of  impatience  he  replied,  "  Danger, 
danger — no!"  with  a  significant  motion,  which  the  interrog- 
ator interpreted  as  a  wish  for  him  to  go ;  for  he  immediately 
went  below,  and  began  diligently  studying  the  sacred  prom- 
ises. The  ladies  stealthily  repaired  to  the  cabin,  and  no  on« 
was  left  on  deck  save  a  few  courageous  spirits,  who  delighted 
to  witness  the  conflict  between  old  ocean  and  the  storm. 
The  hatchways  were  closed,  and  orders  given  for  reefing  the 
sails.     With  an  apprehensive  glance  at  the  already  black 


f-Jr  J1 


.  ^    M'   1 


m 


32 


TEN    YEARS   IN   OBEGON. 


f  I 


r 

i     • 


1 


I'   ^ 


horizon,  the  men  sprang  aloft,  and  one  after  another  of  ^he 
clouds  of  canvass  disappeared  from  the  masts,  and,  with,  a 
.single  exception,  they  were  scudding  under  bare  poles. 
Even  this  one  sail  seemed  almost  too  much  for  the  vessel  to 
bear,  for  the  stick  bent  like  a  whip,  and  creaked  and  groaned 
under  the  pressure.  The  tempest  burst  upon  them.  The 
ship,  like  a  living  thing,  crouched,  shivering,  in  a  trough  of 
the  sea  ;  and  then,  on  a  rising  wave,  bounded  forward,  like  a 
maddened  steed,  striving  to  rid  itself  of  its  tormentors.  On 
she  plunged,  but  the  storm  was  around  her;  she  AViis  wrap- 
ped as  with  toils.  The  heavy  waves  dashed  against  her 
oaken  sides ;  spray  and  foam  enveloped  her  as  a  thick  cloud, 
and  the  winds  croaked  and  moaned  through  the  rigging  with 
sounds  which  absolutely  resembled  howls  of  rage.  The 
lightnings  coiled  and  darted  from  time  to  time  through  the 
angry  skies ;  and  the  thunder  roared  and  muttered  thrcat- 
euingly  in  the  distance.  To  render  the  already  frightful 
scene  more  dismal,  torrents  of  rain  began  pouring  from  the 
murky  clouds,  and  night  to  envelope  them  in  its  dark  folds. 
With  the  little  ones  nestling  to  tlieir  bosoms,  and  looking 
wistfully  to  them  for  protection,  the  females  cowered  trem- 
blingly in  the  cabin.  Even  the  stout  hearts  of  their  male 
companions  sometimes  quaked,as  thej  listened  to  the  crashing 
of  timber  broken  loose  from  its  fastenings  on  deck,  the  haul- 
ing of  ropes,  the  quick  tread  of  the  men,  and  the  rattling 
of  furniture  and  crockery  as  the  ship  rolled  from  side  to  side. 
It  was  a  night  of  terror.  The  latter  part  the  winds  wailed 
loud  and  wild,  the  firmament  was  sheeted  with  lightning, 
and  the  thunder  rolled,  it  seemed,  in  one  continued  deafen- 
ing peal.  The  white  wing  of  the  lonely  gull  occasionally 
flitted  across  their  vision,  as  if  to  show  them,  that,  amid  a 
storna  where  they,  poor  mortals,  wer<?  tossed,  helpless,  at  the 


Wi 


m 


TSN  TKARfl    Ilir   OREGON. 


33 


ling 
5ide. 
liled 

■en- 
ally 
da 
the 


I 


mercy  of  wind  and  wave,  he  was  riding,  fearless,  at  home. 
Ah,  how  they  envied  the  cheerful  bird,  as  he  floated  to  and 
fro  on  the  tempest !  The  hours  passed  wearily  on  till  morn- 
ing. As  the  light  of  day  spread  over  the  heavens,  the 
storm  abated ;  their  hearts  lightened,  and  although  languid 
and  fatigued  by  the  excitement  and  watchfulness  of  the 
night,  they  began  to  converse  more  cheerily,  and  hope  t^at 
present  peril  was  past.  The  gale  had  been  unusually  vio- 
lent, and  as  unusually  brief.  Six  and  seven  bells  struck, 
and  with  keen  appetites  they  awaited  the  summons  to  break- 
fast. At  nine  o'clock  they  seated  themselves,  and  from  the 
motion  of  the  ship,  were  making  low  conges  to  their  neigh- 
bors across  the  board,  when  their  longing  looks  were  greeted 
by  the  unexpected  luxury  of  a  broiled  ham.  Two  or  three 
hams  had  been  brought  from  Boston,  and  this  was  one  of  the 
last.  They  sat  a  few  moments,  anxiously  awaiting  a  signal 
to  begin  the  repast,  when  a  sudden  lurch  of  the  vessel  caused 
them  to  cling  to  their  seats,  and  the  chairs  to  step  a  cotillon, 
which  exercise  they  continued  till  they  danced  the  length  of 
the  cabin  and  back.  Another  lunge,  and,  to  their  consterna- 
tion, the  meat  dish  took  an  impulsive  plunge  in  the  same  di- 
rection, and  after  sundry  girations,  landed  unbroken  on  the 
deck,  the  meat  of  course  undermost.  This  disaster  entirely 
destroyed  their  desire  for  eating;  notwithstanding,  with 
much  dexterity,  the  steward  caught  up  the  unfortunate 
platter,  and  with  a  greasy  napkin,  produced  from  a  pocket 
of  his  unmentionables,  rubbed  it  over,  and  in  a  few  mo- 
ments, with  its  former  contents  placed  invitingly  before 
them,  awaiting  their  pleasure,  as  quietly  as  though  nothing 
had  happened  to  disturb  their  equilibrium. 


3 


y 


B4 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREOON. 


■;■ 


'if' 


CHAPTER  III. 

Falkland  Isles — Seals,  &c. — Albatross— Cape  Horn — Atmosphere- 
Man  overboard — Miss  Johnson's  eflTorts  for  his  conversion — Juan  Fer- 
nandes — Burial  of  the  cook — Whales — Loss  of  the  ship  Essex. 

As  they  proceeded  farther  southward,  the  swell  of  the  sea 
was  very  much  greater,  the  waves  higher,  and  the  troughs 
were  deeper ;  and  for  several  days  before  they  reached  the 
Cape,  they  were  made  aware  of  its  vicinity  by  this  marked 
change,  which,  when  within  two  days'  sail  of  it,  was  really 
frightful.  Tlie  wind  wafted  them  strongly  and  steadily  on- 
ward ;  but  the  scene  became  more  and  more  dismal,  till  they 
approached  the  Falkland  Islands.  Here  it  was  much  calmer 
and  clearer,  and  they  had  a  fine  view  of  the  isles,  the  coast 
of  which  differed  from  any  other  they  had  ever  seen.  There 
were  rocks,  seeming  to  rise  perpendicular  from  the  sea,  to  the 
height  of  several  hundred  feet,  entirely  barren,  excepting 
where,  in  their  clefts,  a  thin  soil  afforded  a  place  for  various 
•sorts  of  ever-greens  to  fasten  their  roots.  It  seemed  singu- 
lar that,  with  so  small  sustenance,  even  this  hardy  species 
•could  flourish  as  it  did,  from  the  height  of  three  to  twenty 
feet,  presenting  to  the  eye  a  pleasant  picture,  where  the 
green  branches  rested  on  the  face  of  the  rugged  rock,  or  in 
dark  relief  against  the  sky. 

Formerly,  here  had  been  extensive  fisheries,  of  various 
kinds,  producing  immense  revenues  to  those  engaged  in 
them.  Several  sorts  of  seals,  called  the  sea  horse,  sea  lion, 
(fee,  were  also  found  in  great  abundance. 

Large  flocks  of  birds,  among  which  were  the  gyll,  and 


I 


I 

I 


1 

t 
t 
c 
a 
a 
e 


TEH  TEARS  IN  OREOON. 


85 


K 


and 


tJbatross,  frequented  the  const,  leaving  (quantities  of  their 
eggs,  and  were  often  found  on  their  nests  with  their  young, 
where  they  appeared  as  tame  as  domestic  fowls,  until  an  at- 
tempt was  made  to  drive  them  from  thence,  when  they  would 
fight  with  fierceness  as  long  as  life  remained.  Here  they 
saw  the  albatross,  the  largest  of  the  water  fowl,  and,  except- 
ing the  condor,  the  largest  bird  that  files,  measuring  from 
tip  to  tip  of  the  extended  wings,  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet ; 
and  the  captiiin  assured  them  he  had  seen  an  instance  of 
one  seventeen  feet. 

As  they  approached  Cape  Horn  the  wind  blew  mo?e 
strongly  from  the  north-west,  directly  in  their  faces,  driving 
them  several  days  out  of  their  course. 

The  farther  south  they  sailed,  the  more  unpleasant  grew 
the  atmosphere ;  so  humid  and  piercing,  that,  clothing 
themselves  as  thickly  as  possible,  and  retiring  to  their  births, 
it  was  still  very  chilling  and  uncomfortable.  The  utmost 
endeavors  were  made  to  kindle  fires,  but  the  dampness 
frustrated  such  efforts,  and  the  only  effect  was  filling  the 
cabin  with  smoke.  For  nineteen  days  they  were  in  this 
forlorn,  uncomfoi-table  situation,  when  the  shifting  of  the 
winds  in  their  favor,  enabled  them  to  regain  their  lost 
ground,  and  double  the  Cape. 

A  thrilling  occun-ence  took  place  as  they  were  roundmg 
the  most  southern  point.  A  man  was  sent  aloft  on  Sabbath 
morning,  and  in  a  few  moments,  "a  man  overboard!"  rang 
through  the  ship.  This  Avas  the  first  occurrence  of  the  kind 
that  had  happened,  and  the  possibility  of  it  had  scarcely 
entered  their  thoughts.  That  one  should  be  taken  from 
among  them  in  so  sudden  and  fearful  a  manner,  almost  par- 
alysed the  little  community.  With  pallid  faces  they  crowd- 
ed to  the  stem,  and  each  did  his  best  to  assist  the  unfortu- 


m 


Tf^ 


i: 


#1  TIN   YEARS  IK  OREGON. 

Aate  inan.  For  a  while,  from  the  heavy  roll  of  the  waves, 
it  sMmed  utterly  impossible  to  accomplish  his  rescue.  But 
*  mei^iful  providence  interfered ;  he  was  enabled  to  seise 
dot  of  the  ropes  which  had  been  thrown  him,  and,  as  he 
wato  drawii  on  board,  one  volume  of  thanks  arose  to  heaven, 
from  the  hearts  of  the  anxious  gazers.  Miss  Johnson  imme- 
diately opened  a  correspondence  with  him  on  his  traly  mi- 
HKCulotts  escape  ;  her  aflFectionate  heart  saw  that  if  ever  there 
Vas  an  opening  for  divine  grace,  this  was  one.  She  labored 
well  and  perse veringly,  and  it  was  thought  that  her  kind, 
ftffeetionate,  christian  efforts,  were  crowned  with  success,  for 
ft  fhorough  change  was  wrought  in  his  deportment. 

They  passed  the  Cape  without  farther  mishap,  and  the  de- 
crease of  high  winds  and  waves  were  in  proportion  to  their 
inei^ase  as  they  sailed  south.  Soon  after  this  they  were  be- 
calined  eleven  days,  nearly  opposite  the  Island  of  Juan  Fer- 
nandes,  though  not  in  sight,  which  they  regretted,  as  they 
iBueh  wished  to  obtain  a  view  of  this  celebrated  spot,  if  they 
e6uld  not  visit  it.  They  strained  their  gaze  anxiously  in  its 
dil^ction  for  hours,  while  the  vessel  lay  like  a  log  upon  the 
water,  but  in  vain ;  nothing  greeted  their  s^ht  or  hearihg 
ftaVe  now  and  then  the  spouting  of  a  whale  at  a  distance, 
and  a  fish  showing  its  finny  sides  a  moment,  and  then  dis- 
ftppearing  beneath  the  blue  wave. 

Till  their  arrival  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  nothing  more 
of  moment  occurred  excepting  the  death  of  the  cook.  A 
feomewhat  lingering  illness  preceded  his  decease,  and  it  was 
DQ  a  fine,  calm  morning,  that  all  hands  were  piped  up  for 
burying  the  dead.  It  was  a  very  solemn  and  impressive  scene. 
The  sun  shed  his  rays  purely  and  brightly  upon  the  uncov- 
e!ired  heads  of  the  small  assembly.  The  sailors  -were  ranged 
on  ofte  side,  toeatly  clad  fai  their  Sfabbath  attire,  their  eye» 


I 


^^.m 


1' 


TKN  ykahs  in  orroon. 


M 


atlcntively  fixed  on  their  captain  as  ho  read  the  burial  ser- 
vice; and  the  missionaries  were  grouped  together  on  the 
other,  also  reverently  listening.  The  dead  man,  sewn  up  itt 
his  hammock,  with  cannon  balls  attached  to  his  feet,  was 
stretched  upon  a  long  board,  one  end  of  which  rested  upon 
the  taffrnil,  and  the  other  was  elevated  on  a  stanchion.  Tlie 
service  of  the  dead  was  read  with  much  solemnity,  to  the 
words  "  we  therefore  commit  his  body  to  the  deep,"  when 
three  or  four  men  applied  their  shoulders  to  the  plank,  an4 
launched  the  corpse  of  their  brother  to  its  last  resting  p)ac#, 
till  "  the  sea  shall  give  up  its  dead." 

They  saw  several  species  of  whale  while  in  the  SQi\th  At- 
lantic and  Pacific.  One  day,  about  118°  west  longitude, 
one  not  less  than  ninety  feet  in  length  was  pla3nng  around 
the  vessel,  when  one  of  the  officers  proposed  trying  an  ex- 
periment, and  accordingly,  much  against  the  will  of  tke 
passengers,  lest  something  serious  might  happen,  the  con- 
tents of  a  gun  were  fired  into  him.  For  a  moment  he  did 
not  notice  the  salute,  and  continued  his  unwieldy  g{gmboki| 
apparently  uninjured,  when  he  started  convulsively,  as 
though  suddenly  shocked,  and,  after  an  instant's  pause,  sped 
away  with  such  rapidity,  that  he  was  soon  lost  to  the  sight. 
Upon  this,  as  was  his  custom  on  all  suitable  occasions,  Mr. 
Wilson  embraced  the  opportunity  of  spinning  a  y^m  whick 
deeply  interested  his  auditors.  It  was  in  relation  to  the  )om 
of  the  ship  Essex,  which  took  place  somewhere  in  this  vi- 
cinity. He  had  sailed  one  voyage  under  the  orders  of  Oapt. 
Pollard,  its  commander,  and  had  often  listened  to  the  t^le 
from  his  own  lips.  They  were  one  day  on  the  look  out  for 
sperms,  and  had  struck  two,  which  the  boats  were  follow- 
ing to  secure.  While  they  were  thus  engaged,  a  young  one 
came  up  near  one  of  the  boats,  when,  either  in  fright  or 


38 


TEN    VEAKS   Ihf    ORKOOK. 


u 


I  r 


I  • 


t 


I  •  • 


sport,  it  uttered  a  shrill  cry,  and  dived  out  of  sight.     At 
this  a  large  whale,  probably  its  mother,  darted  swiftly  to- 
wards them,  and  it  was  only  by  pulling  aside  with  all  pos- 
uiblc  dexterity,  that  they  escaped  being  dashed  in  pieces 
Thus  baffled,  she  tumed  as  though  meditating  another  trial, 
when  she  paused,  and  cast  upon  them  a  look,  seemingly  full 
erf  anger  and  contempt  at  their  insignificance,  and  turning 
ber  head  towards  the  ship,  as  if  she  had  discovered  an  ob- 
ject more  worthy  on  Avhich  to  wreak  her  vengeance,  half 
erected  her  body,  and  made  for  it  with  frightful  rapidity. 
Those  on  board  saw  the  approach  of  the  furious  creature, 
but  supposed  that  at  the  appearance  of  so  large  a  hulk,  she 
would  turn  aside.     But  they  reckoned  without  their  host, 
for  she  came  on  with  undiminished  velocity,  and  striking 
full  against  the   prow,  caused  every  plank  to  quiver  and 
shake  as  though  falling  from  its  fellow.     But  a  more  just 
idea  may  be  imparted  by  Captain  Pollard's  own  account  of 
it,  as  it  has  since  appeared  in  print :    *'  The  whale,  as  though 
hurt  by  the  severe  concussion,  shook  its  enormous  head  and 
sheered  off  to  so  considerable  a  distance  that  for  some  time 
wo  lost  sight  of  her  from  the  starboard  quarter ;  of  which  we 
were  very  glad,  hoping  that  the  worst  was  over.     Nearly  an 
hour  afterwards  we  saw  the  same  fish — we  had  no  doubt  of 
this  from  her  size  and  the  direction  in  which  she  came — ma- 
king again  towards  us.     We  were  at  once  aware  of  our  dan- 
ger, but  escape  was  ii^- possible.     She  dashed  her  head  thi.^ 
time  against  the  ship'?  side,  and  so  broke  it  in  that  she  filled 
rapidly,  and  soon  became  water-logged.      At  the  second 
shock,  expecting  her  to  go  down,  we   lowered   our   three 
boats  with  the  utmost  expedition,  and  all  hands,  twenty  in 
the  whole,  got  into  them  ;  seven,  seven,  and  six.     In  a  little 
while,  as  she  did  not  sink,  we  ventured  on  board  again ;  and 


■■■I 


i    :i- 


TKN  YKAnS   IK    ORKOOM. 


09 


by  scuttling  the  deck,  were  enabled  to  get  some  biscuit,  beef, 
wuter,  rum,  two  sextiints,  the  quudrant,  and  three  com- 
passes. These,  together  with  some  rigging,  a  few  muskets, 
powder,  &c.,  we  brought  away ;  and  dividing  the  stores 
among  our  small  crews,  rigged  the  boats  as  well  as  we 
could,  there  being  a  compass  for  each,  and  a  sextant  for  two, 
and  a  quadrant  for  one  ;  but  neither  sextant  nor  quadrant 
for  the  third.  Then,  instead  of  pushing  away  for  some  port, 
so  amazed  and  bewildered  were  we,  that  we  continued  sit- 
ting in  our  places,  gazing  upon  the  vessel  as  though  she  had 
been  an  object  of  the  tenderest  affection.  Our  eyes  could  not 
leave  her,  till  at  the  end  of  several  hours,  she  gave  a  slight 
reel,  then  down  she  sunk.  No  words  can  tell  our  feelings. 
We  looked  at  each  other ;  we  looked  at  the  place  where  she 
had  so  lately  been  afloat,  and  did  not  cease  to  look,  till  the 
terrible  conviction  of  our  abandoned  and  perilous  situation, 
roused  us  to  exertion,  if  deliverance  were  yet  possible. 

We  now  consulted  about  the  course  it  might  be  best  to 
take — westward  to  India,  eastward  to  South  America,  or 
southward  to  the  Society  Isles.  We  knew  that  we  were  at 
no  great  distance  from  Tahiti ;  but  were  so  ignorant  of  the 
state  and  temper  of  the  inhabitants,  that  we  feared  that  we 
should  be  devoured  by  canibals,  if  we  cast  ourselves  on  their 
mercy.  It  was  determined,  therefore,  to  make  for  South 
America,  which  we  computed  to  be  more  than  two  thousand 
miles  distant.  Accordingly,  we  steered  eastward,  and 
though  for  several  d^ysharrassed  with  squalls,  we  continued 
to  keep  together.  It  was  not  long  before  we  found  one  of 
the  boats  had  started  a  plank ;  which  was  no  wonder,  foi- 
whale  boats  are  all  clinker-bxiilt,  and  very  slight,  being  made 
of  half  inch  plank  only,  before  planing.  To  remedy  this 
alarming  defect,  we  all  turned  to ;  and  having  emptied  the 


%;[ 


J-     1 1 


^^'i 


40 


TKM  YEARS   IN   OREGON. 


*  I  ^ 


,  til 


contents  of  the  damaged  boat  into  the  others,  we  raised  her 
sides  as  well  as  we  could,  and  succeeded  in  restoring  the  plank 
at  the  bottom.  Tlirough  this  accident,  the  biscuit  had  be- 
came injured  by  the  salt  water.  This  was  equally  divided 
among  the  boats'  crews.  Food  and  water,  meanwhile,  with 
our  utmost  economy,  rapidly  failed.  Our  strength  was  ex- 
hausted, not  by  abstinence  only,  but  by  the  labor  we  were 
obliged  to  perform,  to  keep  our  little  vessels  afloat,  amid  th« 
storms  which  repeatedly  assailed  us.  One  night  we  parted 
in  rough  weather ;  but  though  the  next  day  we  fell  in  with 
one  of  our  companion  boats,  we  never  saw  or  heard  any  more 
of  the  other,  which  probably  perished  at  sea,  being  without 
either  sextant  or  quadrant.  When  we  were  reduced  to  the 
last  pinch,  and  out  of  every  thmg,  having  been  more  than  three 
weeks  aboo^rd,  we  were  cheered  with  the  sight  of  a  low,  un- 
inhabted  island,  which  we  reached  in  hope,  but  were  bitterly 
disappointed.  There  were  some  barren  bushes,  and  many 
rocks,  on  this  forlorn  spot.  The  only  provisions  that  we  could 
procure,  were  a  few  birds  and  then*  eggs.  This  supply  wag 
soon  reduced.  The  sea  fowls  appear  to  have  been  fright- 
ened away,  and  their  nests  were  left  empty  after  we  had 
once  or  twice  plundered  them.  What  distressed  us  most, 
was  the  utter  want  oi  fresh  water.  We  could  not  find  a 
drop  any  where,  till  at  the  extrene  verge  of  ebb  tide,  a  small 
spring  was  discovered  .'.x  the  sand;  but  e>en  that  was  too 
scanty  to  aflford  us  suffici'^nt  to  quv  nch  our  tl  irst,  before  it 
was  covered  by  the  waves  at  their  return.  There  being  no 
prospect  but  that  of  starvation  here,  we  determined  to  put 
to  sea  again.  Three  of  our  comrades,  however,  chose  to 
remain,  and  we  pledged  ourselves  to  send  a  vessel  to  bring 
them  off,  if  we  ourselves  should  escape  '.o  a  christian  port. 
With  a  verj-  small  morsel  of  biscuit  for  each,  and  a  liUJe 


y; .  f 


TBN   TBARa  IN   ORBGOH. 


41 


water,  we  again  ventured  out  on  the  wide  ocean.  In  the 
course  of  a  few  days  our  provision  was  consumed.  Two 
men  died.  We  had  no  alternative  but  to  live  upon  their 
remains.  These  w^e  roasted  to  dryness  by  means  of  fires 
kindled  on  the  ballast-sand  at  the  bottom  of  the  boats. 
When  this  supply  was  spent,  what  could  we  do  ?  We  look- 
ed at  each  other  with  horrid  thoughts  in  our  minds,  but  we 
held  our  tongues.  I  am  sure  w&  loved  each  other  as  brothers 
all  the  time ;  and  yet  our  looks  plsinly  told  what  must  be  done. 
We  cast  lots,  and  the  fatal  one  fell  on  my  poor  cabin  boy. 
I  started  forward  instantly  and  cried  out,  "  my  lad,  my  lad, 
if  you  don't  hke  your  lot.  111  shoot  the  first  man  who  touches 
you."  The  poor  emaciated  boy  hesitated  for  a  moraent  or 
two,  then  quietly  laying  his  head  upon  the  gunwale  of  the 
boat,  he  said,  "  I  hke  it  as  well  as  any  other."  He  was 
soon  despatched,  and  nothing  of  him  left.  I  think  that  an- 
other Tnan  died  of  himself,  and  him  too  we  ate.  But  I  can 
tell  you  no  more.  My  head  is  on  fire  at  the  recollection.  I 
forgot  to  say  that  we  parted  company  with  the  second  boat 
before  now.  After  some  more  days  of  horror  and  despair, 
when  some  were  lying  down  ul  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  not 
able  to  rise,  and  scarcely  one  of  us  could  move  a  limb,  a  ves- 
sel hovf'  in  sight!  We  were  taken  on  board,  and  treated 
with  extreme  kindness.  The  second  boat  lost  was  also  piclr- 
ed  up  at  sea,  and  the  survivors  saved.  A  ship  afte.  wards 
sailed  m  search  of  our  companions  on  the  desolate  island,  and 
brought  them  away." 


•  !*! 


I    1- 


42 


TEN   YEARS   IN    ORBOON. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Black  Fish — Dance  oi  the  Poipoises — See  Land — Heights  of  Owyhee — 
Venerable  Pilot — His  after  kindness — Ladies  left  alone — Return  of 
the  Gentlemen — Cargo  of  Bananas,  &c — Visitors — Landii.g— Settle 
for  the  Winter — Dress  of  the  Natives — ^Numbers  and  occupations — 
Females' attempt  at  Imitation — Funeral  ceremonies  of  the  Princess — 
ffoceseion — Cahelas — Visit  to  Youii — Craters  and  Battle  Field — 
Tamaakaah — Half-Caste  Schcol— Mrs.  White's  School — Young 
Prince — Character  of  the  Chilo'ren — Nurse  Kakeria — Her  love  for 
Siias — ^Valuable  Presents. 

"When  in  about  40°  south  latitude,  our  voyagers  witnessed 
a  singular  scene.  For  two  or  three  hours  they  had  been 
followed  by  hundreds  of  black  fish,  and  were  loitering  about 
the  deck,  when  suddenly,  in  all  di-jctions  around  them,  the 
sea  seemed  to  be  literfMy  alive  with  what  they  discovered 
to  be  porpoises.  They  were  leaping  about,  apparently  in 
high  glee,  shining  and  flashing  in  the  rays  of  the  sun,  in- 
creasing in  numbers,  until,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  scan, 
were  seen  the  dancing,  glittering  multitude.  It  was  a  novel 
sight,  so  entirely  diflPering  from  any  thing  they  had  seen  in 
their  voyage,  they  were  enchanted. 

They  were  now  nearing  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  for  a 
day  or  two  before  descrying  land,  the  crew,  as  well  as  pas- 
sengers, were  all  anxiety  and  expectation.  They  had  be- 
come thoroughly  wearied  with  their  long  confinement ;  were 
getting  short  of  food,  having  been  long  since  out  of  vegeta- 
bles, for  want  of  which  one  of  the  company  had  been  at- 
tacked v/ith  that  dreadful  disease,  the  scurvy.     As  the  ship 


•n 
^ 


ft, 


TEST   TEAR8    IN   ORIsOON. 


48^ 


^5 


had  been  victualed  for  the  whole  passage,  none  had  set  foot 
on  land  since  the  day  of  their  leaving  Boston.  The  reader 
may  conceive  their  delight  at  the  prospect  of  again  landing 
on  terra  firma,  an  they  had  been  out  one  hundred  and  forty - 
eight  days. 

About  three  o'clock  one  afternoon,  they  came  in  sight  of 
the  heights  of  Owyhee.,  apparently  large  masses  of  blacken- 
ed rocks,  the  remains  of  volcanic  eruptions. 

The  signal  for  a  pilot  was  promptly  answered,  and  they 
had  the  happiness  of  seeing  one  putting  out  to  them  with 
all  speed.  He  was  about  seventy  years  of  age,  clad  in  a 
linen  jacket  and  trousers,  and  his  hair  vying  with  his  clothes 
in  whiteness,  although  he  was  otherwise  of  youthful  appear- 
ance. He  was  a  wealthy  merchant  from  Boston,  a  man  of 
considerable  intelligence  in  many  respects,  agreeable  man- 
nerSj  and  with  Dr.  White  and  his  lady  was  soon  on  excellent 
terms.  He  was  skeptical  on  the  subject  of  rehgion,  as  the 
following  speech  of  his  will  show:  "The  mercantile  and 
missionary  enterprises  are  of  much  the  same  stamp ;  both 
alike  profitable  schemes  for  speculation."  Kis  new  friends 
afterwards  becari.j  much  attached  to  him,  and  will  ever  re- 
member with  gratitude  his  kindness ;  for  after  their  depar- 
ture from  the  islands,  he  repeatedly  sent  them  presents  of 
value,  such  as  teas,  sugars,  cloths,  <fec. — till  they  left  Oregon 
to  return  to  their  native  land,  he  manifested  for  them  the 
sincerest  friendship.  Between  sunset  and  twilight  they 
dropped  anchor  in  the  bay  of  Honolulu.  That  evening  Dr. 
White  and  Mr.  Wilson  went  on  shore  with  the  pilot,  leaving 
the  ladies  lamenting  that  they  had  not  the  like  privilege. 
To  add  to  their  loneliness  and  feeling  of  desertion,  the  offi- 
cers also  went  ashore,  abandoning  them  to  the  tender  office* 
of  the  hands,  who  seemed  striving  with  one  another  in  keep- 


pi 


',';*r-l 


1 


I, 


44 


T^N    YEARS    IN  ORKGOK. 


u     . 

%    ■ 
I 

A 

•I ' 


ing  the  most  perfect  silence.  Their  work  was  at  last  done, 
for  a  brief  space  at  least ;  they  were  emphatically  enjoying 
"  rest  from  their  labors." 

The  aext  mc«Tiing  the  gentlemen  returned,  bringing  with 
them  a  quantity  of  bananas,  cucumbers,  and  water-melons, 
and  a  pitcher  of  milk  for  coffee — and  such  a  breakfast  as 
they  made !  The  cucumbers,  sliced  up  in  vinegar,  were  de- 
licious ;  and  the  melons  and  bananas,  although  more  taatelese 
than  our  fruits,  were  fine ;  and  thanks  and  gratitude  swelled 
the  bosoms  of  the  partakers,  to  the  great  Creator  and  Giver 
of  these  bounties. 

They  'jr*'re  that  day  visited  by,  and  introduced  to,  Messrs. 
Binghan.  Smith,  and  received  kind  invitations  to  their 
houses,  whicn  were  thankfully  accepted,  and  they  accompa- 
nied them  to  the  town,  where  they  also  received  visits  from 
the  resident  missionaries,  who  dined  with  them,  and  with 
whom  they  had  a  very  interesting  conference  meeting,  and 
who  joined  with  them  in  returning  thanks  to  the  Almighty 
for  their  preservation  from  the  dangers  which  had  beset 
them  in  their  long  and  perilous  voyage. 

The  company  were  distributed  in  different  places,  and  be- 
ing followed  in  a  few  days  by  their  effects,  were,  to  be  brief, 
finally  settled  in  their  winter  quarters.  Diuring  their  first 
dinner,  they  were  much  amused  by  the  appearance  of  the 
native  assistants,  one  of  whom  stood  at  each  end  of  the  table, 
clad  in  their  single  tappa  garment,  thrown  over  their  shoul- 
der in  the  form  of  a  blanket,  and  gazing  slyly  at  the  stran- 
gers, with  looks  of  great  curiosity  ;  while  they  were  in  their 
turn,  equally  unceremonious.  They  gravely  determined 
within  themselves,  that  they  would  have  no  such  slightly 
apparelled  creatures  about  them.  But  in  a  short  time  they 
became   accustomed  to  the  singularity,  and,  compelled  by 


i 


1 


■I  I 


i.  n\ 


TSy   TEARS   IN   OREOON. 


4$ 


the  sultriness  of  the  climate,  in  scMne  measure  imitated  their 
example.  Of  the  natives  they  saw  great  numbers,  as  they 
could  not  well  do  otherwise ;  for  on  leaving  the  ship,  the 
shore  was  covered  with  them,  to  witness  their  landing ;  and 
le  next  Sabbath  they  were  at  church  to  the  number  of  a 
thousand,  shaming  even  the  churches  at  home,  by  their 
grave  and  careful  attention  to  the  services.  They  not  only 
performed  the  domestic  ser>'ices,  but  all  the  manual  labor 
of  the  islands.  On  public  occasions,  their  dress  was  entirely 
European.  Those  of  the  females  was  principally  black  and 
white,  the  materials  satin,  silk,  or  cotton  cloth,  and  straw 
hats  of  their  own  manufacture.  It  will  be  remembered, 
that,  owing  to  the  proximity  of  China,  silks  and  such  articles 
were  obtained  much  cheaper  than  in  this  countr}% 

It  was  ludicrous  to  witness  their  attempts  at  imitating  the 
foreign  ladies  in  their  dress.  They  were  frequently  seen 
flaunting  about  the  streets  in  the  richest  of  satins,  perfectly 
stockingless,  and  heavy  shoes,  with  soles  of  half  an  inch 
thickness.  The  raiment  worn  by  the  men  resembled  the 
summer  clothing  worn  hy  Americans. 

About  this  time  occurred  the  death  of  the  king's  sister. 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  White  visited  her  during  her  illness,  and  were 
likewise  present  on  the  funeral  occasion.  It  was  one  of  the 
most  imposing  ceremonies  they  ever  witnessed.  Notwith- 
standing, in  Washington,  they  afterwards  attended  the  fu- 
nerals of  senators  and  other  distinguished  men,  they  could 
not  compare  with  this  in  augustness  and  splendor.  By 
Bome  means,  probably  embalming,  the  lady  was  preserved, 
'unburied  for  a  month,  and  every  day  the  people  had  hours 
of  wailing,  which  were  without  intermission  from  early  in 
the  morning  till  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  forenoon.  The 
rounds  to  which  they  gave  utterance,  were,  with  the  excep- 


§ 


46 


TEN   YEAI18  IN    OREOOH. 


f'r 


\    t;:i 


]>   A 


>  i:' 


!  .:i' 


ll 


lion  of  the  howling  of  wolves,  the  most  dismal  that  could  be 
imagined.  This  rite  was  continued  till  the  day  of  the  bu- 
rial, when  every  thing  was  conducted  in  the  most  decorous 
manner.  At  sunrise  began  the  firing  of  cannon  at  intervals, 
like  the  tolling  of  a  bell.  The  national,  or  king's  guard  of 
five  hundred  men,  then  convened,  and  were  soon  in  full 
array,  and  the  coffin  was  brought  forward  and  placed  under 
their  charge,  while  the  procession  was  forming.  First  walk- 
ed the  king,  leaning  on  the  arm  of  Mr.  Jones,  the  American 
consul.  The  dress  of  the  sovereign  was  really  dazzling. 
One  article  alone,  his  coat,  he  had  imported  from  England 
at  the  cost  of  a  thousand  dollars,  and  it  was  a  tnily  gorge- 
ous thing.  It  was  of  the  most  superb  quality  of  cloth,  plen- 
tifully decorated  with  gold  lace  and  buttons,  and  the  nicest 
workmanship  was  lavished  upon  it.  Next  him  came  the 
chiefs  and  chiefesses  (as  they  are  called)  of  blood,  the  most 
respectable  of  the  foreign  residents,  missionaries ;  and  in  the 
rear  followed  an  immense  concourse  of  the  common  people, 
wearing  an  aspect  more  mournful  and  becoming  the  occa- 
sion than  the  stately,  splendid  group  preceding  them  to  the 
solemn  music  of  a  march.  The  cahelas  were  perhaps  the 
most  singular  features  of  the  spectacle.  These,  the  doctor 
says,  he  is  unable  to  describe,  othei*wise  than  that  they 
w^ere  poles,  the  size  of  a  man's  arm,  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
feet  in  length.  Two-thirds  the  length  from  the  top,  was 
covered  with  feathers  of  the  most  costly  kind,  so  much  so 
that  probably  the  amount  expended  on  the  two  could  not 
have  been  less  than  two  or  three  thousand  dollars.  They 
were  obtained,  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  from  rare  species 
of  birds,  inhabiting  the  mountains.  The  colors  were  red, 
white,  yellow,  and  black.  They  were  singularly  beautiful, 
softly  reflecting  the  rays  of  light,  with  a  velvet  richness,  as 


1 


lAI 


TEK    YEARS  IN    OREQOK. 


47 


they  were  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  men  immediately  in 
advance  of  the  monarch.  In  the  burying  ground  were  seen 
several  planted  on  the  graves  of  the  dead,  soiled  and  disccd- 
ored  by  the  weather. 

On  the  group  of  islands  there  were  several  small  towns, 
but  Honolulu,  of  Oahu,  was  one  of  the  most  consequence 
among  them,  containing  perhaps  from  ten  to  twelve  thou- 
Band  inhabitants. 

They  did  not  visit  each  of  the  islands  ;  but  receiving  an 
invitation  from  the  missionaries,  Gulick  and  Whitney,  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  White  visited  them  at  Youii ;  and  the  prosperfty 
of  their  friends  tended  much  to  encourage  them  in  their  ar- 
duous undertaking. 

They  visited,  or  rather  saw,  the  extinguished  craters  of 
eeveral  volcanos,  and  passed  in  view  of  the  field  where  wa.s 
fought  one  of  the  most  eventful  contests  of  the  last  two  cen- 
turies, and  which  secured  to  the  last  king,  Tamaahaah,  the 
whole  of  the  Sandwich  group.  He  was  a  man  of  shrewd- 
ness and  cunning,  possessing  many  good  qualities,  and,  es- 
pecially in  the  latter  part  of  his  life,  was  much  beloved  by 
^is  subjects. 

During  their  five  months'  stay  at  the  islands,  being  en- 
tirely without  occupation,  it  was  proposed  to  the  doctor  to 
take  the  place  of  Mr.  Johnson,  the  teacher  of  the  half-cast*^ 
school.  Mrs.  White  was  similarly  engaged.  There  had 
never  been  a  school  established  for  the  children  of  the  white 
inhabitants,  and  they  had  therefore  honored  her  by  proffer- 
ing her  the  charge  of  one.  Thus  time  hung  less  heavily  on 
their  hands  than  it  would  otherwise  have  done. 

With  one  exception,  the  scholars  of  Mrs.  White's  school 
were  white.  The  little  adopted  son  of  the  king  was  a  pupil 
when  it  suited  his  convenience.     The  young  priice  always 


i\ 


->.!" 


■  .A'f  fl 

/-■ill 

M 

imf 

'...  ?i 


48 


ITCN    YEARS   IN   OUEOOK. 


I:::;i 


came  in  somewhat  imposing  style,  never  accompanied  by 
less  than  six  attendants.  One  dre>,v  his  little  carriage,  and 
one  walked  on  either  side,  and  the  others  performed  such 
services  as  he  required  at  their  hands.  While  he  was  in 
school,  they  remained  on  the  green  before  the  house,  not 
being  allowed  to  receive  instructions  with  their  youthful 
master. 

The  members  of  the  school  were  all  young,  the  elder 
ones  having  been  sent  to  the  United  States  to  obtain  their 
education.  They  were  perfectly  good  and  gentle.  As  they 
had  never  been  exposed  to  improper  influences,  they  knew 
nothing  of  evil,  and  their  instructress  fondly  imagined  that 
even  angels  could  scarce  be  purer  than  these  dear  children. 

During  his  mother's  labors,  Silas  was  left  at  home,  con- 
signed to  the  care  of  his  native  nurse,  Kakeria,  who  was  de- 
votedly attached  to  her  charge,  moaning  and  weeping  over 
him  bitterly  when  she  thought  of  his  approaching  departure 
for  Oregon,  imprinting  upon  his  young  face  kisses  of  the 
tenderest  affection.  She  was  a  most  maternal  creature,  and 
a  treasure  to  her  mistress,  because  of  her  cheerful,  faithful 
services. 

The  parents  expressed  great  gratitude  to  the  instructors 
of  their  children,  and  presented  them  gifts  of  much  value. 
Captain  Charlton,  the  English  consul,  and  Mr.  Jones,  the 
American  consul,  each  sent  them  a  fine  cow ;  as  also  did 
Mr.  "Whitney,  of  Youii.  Their  new  commander.  Captain 
Hinckly,  unwilling  to  be  outdone  in  kindness,  generously 
gave  the  animals  their  keepinf,  ;  and  Mr.  Hooper  placed  on 
board  two  barrels  of  molasses.  Numberless  were  the  kind- 
nesses of  their  many  friends. 


lOi 
CO 

th 
th 

at 
bo 

an 
thi 
ioi 
tei 
th( 
mi 


li  •. 


TKN  YEARS    IN   OREGON. 


49 


V  '■ 


ors 
ue. 
he 
id 
in 
ily 
on 
d- 


CHAPTER  V. 

Spring  and  preparations  to  leave  the  Sandwich  Islands — Benefit  to 
them  of  their  residence  there — Engage  passage  on  board  ship — Food 
and  water — Windy  and  boisterous — Great  loss-^Contents  of  the 
Boxes  sent  on  board  by  Pilot  Reynolds ;  his  wife — Interesting  yoang 
man  ;  his  marriage  with  a  native  woman — Mr.  Grimes — Sue* 
cession  of  Storms — Endeavor  to  cross  the  Bar  of  the  Columbia — 
Desperation  of  the  Captain — Crossing — Lulling  of  the  Winds — Ba- 
ker's Bay — Rest  —View — Varieties  of  Trees;  their  enormous  size — 
King  Chenamup  and  his  Consort ;  his  Intoxication ;  their  Dress — 
Aground  thre«  times — Visitor — Invitation  to  the  Shore — First  Canoe 
ride — Arrival  at  Astoria— Residence  of  Mr.  Bimey—- Beds  for  the 
Night. 

Spring  was  now  approaching,  and  with  it  thoughts  of 
leaving  the  pleasant  home  and  friends  to  which  they  had  be- 
come much  attached.  They  were  sorrowful,  but  duty  bade 
them  on  to  the  wilds  of  Oregon,  and  they  accordingly  made 
their  preparations.  They  were  benefited  by  their  residence 
at  the  isknds,  for  they  had  learned  much  of  ■  'ssionary  la- 
bors, and  the  course  which  they  must  in  part  pursue. 

They  embarked  on  board  the  Diana,  Captain  Hinckley, 
and  found  that,  unlike  the  vessel  they  had  before  sailed  in, 
this  was  provided  with  a  variety  of  good,  wholesome  provis- 
ions. They  were  thirty  days  at  sea,  and  had  a  very  bois- 
terous passage ;  but  nothing  more  disastrous  occurred  than 
the  death  of  their  English  cow,  which  to  the  children  was  a 
misfortune,  as  they  were  thereby  deprived  of  milk. 

After  they  had  been  out  a  fortnight,  and  the  weather 


II 


'i 


50 


TEN   YEARH   IN    ORKOOK, 


had  become  somewhat  calm,  they  felt  a  curiosity  to  op(  n 
the  throe  boxes  which  had  been  sent  on  board  by  Pilot  Rey- 
nolds, mentioned  in  the  last  chapter,  labelled  to  Dr.  Whit<\ 
In  the  first  they  found  a  dozen  bottles  of  wine,  in  the  second 
eight  of  brandy,  a\\  invaluable  in  sickness,  and  in  the  third 
pepper,  spices,  cassia,  tea,  sugar,  and  every  such  article 
as  Mrs.  White  needed  on  going  to  housekeeping.  Thoy 
liad  often  seen  Reynolds  while  at  the  islands,  and  endeavor- 
ed to  learn  something  of  his  former  history.  But  in  this 
they  were  disappointed.  Tiiey  had  heard  him  speak  much 
of  his  children.  One  morning  Mrs.  White  went  into  his 
store  on  some  trifling  errand,  when  she  saw  a  native  woman 
behind  on'^  , .  the  counters.  She  was  dressed  in  black  satin, 
with  a  wreath  of  rare  and  beautiful  feathers  upon  her  head, 
and  was  a  tall,  fine  looking  creature,  of  rather  noble  ap- 
pearance. After  the  usual  compliments,  Mr.  Reynolds, 
turning  to  her,  said,  "Mrs.  White,  the  mother  of  my  chil- 
dren." This  was  a  singular  introduction,  and  she  was  rea- 
sonably surprised,  especially  as  before  she  had  never  heard 
him  mention  his  wife,  and  besides,  this  was  the  first  instance 
she  had  ever  seen  of  a  colored  woman*  being  the  wife  of  a 
white  man. 

A  young  man  who  left  Boston  with  them,  afterwards 
married  a  native  woman.  He  was  a  man,  who,  from  his 
acquirements  and  deportment,  would  have  been  judged  pos- 
sessed of  too  much  pride  to  form  a  connexion  considered  so 
degrading.  His  intellect  w^as  of  a  high  order.  He  was  well 
educated,  and  it  was  a  treat,  which,  the  passengers  often 
sought,  to  converse  with  him  a  few  momeats  Avhen  he  could 
be  released  from  his  duties;  for,  owing  to  i.;is  not  verj'  prcs- 

•The  complexion  of  lue  native  is  midway  between  the  African  nrJ 
Indian  of  this  country. 


u 


(  -■ 


-.{T 


TKK   TEARS   IN    ORlCOON*. 


61 


perouR  circumstances,  hit  had  gone  before  the  mast  to  work 
his  passage  to  the  islands,  where  his  father  was  residing.  As 
there  were  so  few  young  ladirs  in  the  country,  he  could  have 
returned  to  the  states  for  a  wife,  if  so  disposed ;  for  he  was 
so  prospered  that  he  could  have  done  so  with  propriety 
as  did  another  genlli-nmn,  named  Grimes,  a  passenger,  who 
would  have  Ix^cn  suspected  as  being  more  likely  to  take  the 
opposite  course.  He  was  almost  the  reverse  of  Pitman — his 
inferior  in  both  intelligence  and  education.  He  went  out 
as  clerk  for  an  uncle  ;  and  five  years  after,  when  they  re- 
turned, he  accompanied  them,  a  wealthy  merchant,  married 
a  lady  in  New  England,  and  then  rctumed  to  the  islands. 

Nothing  of  particular  interest  occurcd,  till  they  ncarcd 
the  bar  of  the  Columbia  river,  where  lay  the  greatest  danger 
they  encountered,  although  for  three  days  before  they  reach- 
ed it,  there  was  a  succession  of  storms.  The  danger  far  ex- 
ceeded their  expectations,  for  they  crossed  under  the  most 
unfavorable  circumstances  that  probably  a  vessel  ever  did. 
Their  pilot  had  not  been  on  the  spot  for  t>/enty-two 
years,  and  the  captain  never  had.  When  near  it,  the  ship 
was  obliged  to  lay  to,  on  account  of  the  violence  of  the 
storm ;  and  when  this  had  in  a  slight  degree  abated,  they 
were  half  a  day  making  vain  endeavors  to  get  into  the  river. 
The  captain,  however,  became  more  desperate  and  deter- 
mined, continually  fortifying  his  wavering  courage  by  deep 
quaffs  of  brandy.  At  last  they  reached  the  place  of  peiil, 
and  he  thundered  forth  orders  to  put  the  vessel  forward.  It 
was  done,  and  they  expected  every  moment  that  destruction 
would  o\'erwlielm  them,  for  they  saw  and  heard  the  roar  of 
breakers  just  ahead,  and  it  was  impossible  to  determine  their 
precise  situation,  shrouded  and  enveloped  as  they  were  with 
ppray.     However,  this  nightmare  was  soon  ended ;  for,  as 


':-i 


M 


TEN   TEARS   IN   ORHOOK, 


f\ 


m 


Providence  would  have  it,  tlicy  struck  the  channel,  although 
not  yet  out  of  danger ;  for,  the  wind  lulling,  and  the  ebb  tide  so 
strong,  the  captain,  fearful  they  would  be  carried  back  into 
the  sands,  and  thus  inevitably  perish,  ordered  the  dropping 
of  the  anchors.*  After  a  while  the  winds  rose,  a  favorable 
breeze  set  in,  and  they  came  in  view  of  Cape  Disiippointment 
again,  and  were  soon  harbored  in  Baker's  Bay,  and  in  com- 
parative safety.  The  evening  passed  quietly,  and  they  dwelt 
largely  on  the  pleasure  they  anticipated  for  the  morrow,  iw 
treading  once  more  the  shores  of  America,  although  so  dis- 
tant from  their  native  homes.  Even  the  good  brig  Diana 
seemed  enjoying  perfect  rest  in  her  snug  liarbor,  after  having 
been  so  long  the  sport  of  boisterous  winds  and  waves. 

Morning  light  stole  upon  them,  and  opened  to  their  view  a 
scene  altogether  new  and  interesting.  Cape  Disappointment 
lay  on  their  left,  several  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  commanding  a  stupendous  view  of  both  land  and  wat  ' 

The  whole  cUff  and  coast  were  covered  with  trees  and  h 
age  differmg  from  any  thing  they  had  seen  in  other  countrico. 
There  they  found  the  red  and  wliite  fir,  spoken  of  by  Clark 
and  Lewis,  as  growing  to  such  amazing  height — sometimes 
from  two  hundred  and  seventy  to  three  hundred  feet  high, 

•  To  cross  the  bar,  bring  Cape  Disappointment  to  bear  north-east, 
then  lead  up  until  Cheenook  Point  bears  east  by  north,  which  you  steer 
for  until  you  have  the  cape  north  or  north  by  eait,  when  yon  have  a 
scant  wind  from  north-west.  I  have  even  hauled  up  for  it  when  north> 
north-east,  bordering  upon  the  north  breakers ;  but  keep  in  four  fath- 
oms, lead  close  along  the  cape  to  avoid  the  spit  sand,  and  continue  to 
run  into  Baker's  Bay  until  you  have  Point  EUice  and  Tongue  Point 
shut  in  thus  X— when  you  can  lead  along  to  Baker's  Bay,  taking  care 
to  haul  out  gradually  as  you  cross  it,  until  you  have  Point  KUice  and 
Tongue  Point  well  open,  iio  that  you  may  avoid  the  lying  to  windward 
of  Cheenook  Point.— S/acum'«  Chart. 


TBN   TEARS    IN    OREOON. 


53 


rcsombling  the  hemlock  in  leaf  tmd  bark.  They  also  af- 
t<»rwards  saw  at  Astoria  the  tree  mentioned  by  the  above 
named  gentlemen,  felled  a  few  years  since  by  a  party  of  Ca- 
nadian Frenchmen,  who  supposed  it  to  be  the  largest  in  the 
world.  Four  feet  above  the  roots,  it  measured  fifty-seven 
feet  nine  inches,  and  wa«  in  the  vicinity  of  three  hundred  feet 
in  height,  perfectly  sound,  and  just  as  they  had  represented 
it  in  their  official  reports. 

In  that  section  were  wanting  many  varieties  of  trees  which 
grow  in  this  country,  nor  did  the  doctor  aft,erwards  find 
them  during  his  absence  from  the  states,  such  as  the 
black  and  white  walnut,  hickory,  sugar  maple,  and  chest- 
nut ;  but  in  their  stead  the  white  oak  in  its  most  scrubby 
form,  some  pine,  large  quantities  of  cedar,  ash,  laurel,  yew, 
hazel,  and  alder.  It  was  about  the  ninth  of  May — many 
sorts  of  flowers  were  in  bloom,  ai  d  their  walks  were  really 
delightful. 

For  the  first  time  they  now  saw  King  Chenamus  and  his 
consort,  who  visited  them  on  board,  to  their  no  small  amuse- 
ment, and  some  mortification,  as  he  had  not  been  long  with 
them  when  he  became  stupidly  intoxicated,  for  the  captain 
could  not  resist  his  pertinacious  pleadings  for  strong  drink. 
Captain  Gushing  aft<?rwards  built  a  brig,  and  named  it  after 
this  chief.  Although  he  was  styled  king,  he  held  it  not  at 
all  derogatory  to  his  dignity  to  guide  the  ship  up  the  river, 
as  no  other  pilot  could  be  obtained.  The  dress  of  this  wor- 
thy consisted  of  a  single  blanket,  thrown  carelessly  over  his 
shoulder,  and  the  queen's  was  similar,  excepting  that  she 
wore  a  pair  of  leggins. 

Every  thing  passed  off  very  pleasantly,  till  the  second 
day's  sail  up  the  river,  and  the  voyagers  were  rejoicing  in  the 
thought  that  their  troubles  were  ended,  when,  in   conse- 


■{••li 


y 


III 


mtm 


lU 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OREaOF. 


W'l 


qucnce  of  the  tide  leaving  them,  or  the  pilot's  or  captain's 
ignorance  of  the  channel,  they  ran  aground.  This  happen- 
ed three  times,  till  at  last,  in  sight  of  Astoria,  the  vessel 
was  thrown  almost  upon  her  beam's  ends. 

Wliile  in  this  condition  they  discovered  a  white  man  put- 
ting out  to  them  in  bis  canoe,  and  although  a  stranger,  they 
welcomed  him  with  the  joy  they  would  have  done  an  old 
friend.  He  remained  Avith  them  till  dusk,  when  he  kindly  in- 
vited the  passengers  to  the  shore,  which  invitation  tlic  cap- 
tain ad\ised  them  to  accept.  He  was  anxious  respecting  the 
safety  of  his  ship,  as,  in  her  exposed  position,  if  even  a  slight 
squall  strucK  her,  she  must  be  hopelessly  Avrecked. 

They  accordingly  embarked,  some  of  them,  Mrs.  White 
among  the  number,  in  the  little  canoe,  and  others  in  the 
boats  This  wf^:  Ihe  first  sail  Mrs  White  had  taken  in  a 
craft  of  this  sort ;  and  wliil  seated  on  its  bottom,  she  trem- 
bled more  with  terror  than  she  had  done  on  board  the 
stranded  vessel.  Indeed  it  was  a  timerous  mode  of  trav- 
elUng. 

When  they  reached  Fort  George,  now  Astoria,  it  was 
about  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  they  were  conducted 
up  a  gentle  declivity,  p'^rhaps  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
from  the  landing,  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Birney,  clerk  of  the 
trading  post  at  that  place,  where  they  were  handsomely  wel- 
comed by  him  and  his  wife,  a  very  pretty  native  woman. 
When  they  entered  their  house,  they  were  much  impressed 
with  its  homelike  appearance.  A  bright  fire  blazed  cheer- 
fully on  the  hearth,  the  fir  floor  was  scrubbed  clean  and 
neat,  and  the  pine  table  was  of  snowy  whiteness.  Fur- 
niture was  scarce,  indeed,  the  only  seats  being  low,  wooden 
benches. 

It  was  soon  time  to  retire,  and  they  looked  around  for  en- 


I    I  «  !* 


I 


n 


TBN    7BARS   IN    OREOOK. 


55 


trances  to  other  chambers,  or  couches  on  which  to  lay  thtu' 
wearied  frames;  but  there  were  neither,  and  so  they  were, 
perforce,  obhged,  some  with  blankets,  to  be  sure,  to  seek  tho 
softest  spot  on  the  hard  planks,  and  stretch  themselves  there- 
on ;  thankful  that,  in  addition  to  the  floor  for  a  bed,  they 
had  not  the  rocking  of  the  vessel  to  disturb  their  slumbers. 


•■'.'- 

^}-l 

'B^ 

■.■,•,,'■-'.' 

i'^w^ 

■     ,    '. 

!''■'! 

■     ■■^:l 

t   ; 

'..  »■ 

■'!' 

J;        t 

56 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


SI 

o 


■'■■4''  ■■ 

I'll  1 

ift 


i^^ 


*  ^ 


Size  of  Astoria — The  Diana  still  aground — Preparations  to  go  to  Fort 
Vancouver — One  eyed  Pilot  George — Remonstrances  of  Friends — 
Mrs.  White's  Resolution — Leaying  Astoria — Singing  of  the  Crew — 
Beauty  of  the  Shores — Reflections — Seeking  for  a  place  to  Camp — 
Startling  Incident — Camping — Tale  of  the  "  Petrified  Sister." 

From  the  fame  of  Astoria,  they  supposed  it  to  be  a  fort 
of  considerable  strength ;  and  great  was  their  disappoint- 
ment at  finding,  besides  Mr.  Biniey's,  but  two  other  houses, 
and  those  built  of  logs,  and  enclosed  by  rail  fences.  How- 
ever, the  place  occupied  a  very  beautiful  site,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  a  romantic  country,  and  also  of  the  noble  river, 
whicli  was  here  two  miles  wide.  Till  four  o'clock  in  the  af- 
ternoon, they  anxiously  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  ship,  that 
they  might  proceed  on  to  Fort  Vancouver.  But  there  was 
no  prospect  of  her  immediate  release  from  her  perilous  situ- 
ation ;  and  it  was  proposed  to  despatch  an  express  to  the 
fort,  and  Dr.  "White  was  informed  that  himself  and  another 
could  accompany  it  if  they  chose,  and  he  decided  on  doing  so. 

The  guide  is  worthy  of  a  passing  notice,  although  not  a 
dignitary  of  the  highest  standing.  He  was  a  brawny,  ath- 
letic Indian,  with  but  one  eye ;  and  from  his  partiality  for 
England  and  its  monarch,  they  called  him  "pilot  George." 
Notwithstanding  his  unfortunate  deformity,  he  probably  un- 
derstood his  business  better  than  any  man  on  the  river.  Un- 
like his  race  generally,  he  was  not  at  all  taciturn,  and  was 
the  most  able  linguist  of  his  color  in  the  section,  having  a 


i    11  V 


^m 


TEN  TSARS   IN    OREGOK. 


67 


smattering  of  French  and  English,  and  many  of  the  tongues 
of  his  country.  Excepting  him,  they  could  not  converse 
with  one  of  the  crew  save  by  signs.  All  the  missionaries 
shrank  from  accompanying  the  doctor,  and  remonstrated 
warmly  against  his  thus  jeopardizing  his  safety,  by  ventur- 
ing, unguarded,  through  a  strange  countr}%  not  knowing  the 
dangers  to  which  he  might  be  exposed,  and  affirming  they 
had  no  confidence  in  the  fideUty  of  his  companions. 

He  remained  unshaken  in  his  decision,  and  Mrs.  W.,  not- 
withstanding repeated  dissuasions,  and  the  descriptions  she 
had  read  and  heard  of  the  treachery  peculiar  to  the  Indian 
character,  overcame  her  natural  womanly  timidity,  and  firmly 
expressed  her  determination  to  share  with  her  husband  the 
perils  of  tlie  voyage. 

Their  preparations  were  soon  made,  and  they  were  but 
small  and  hasty ;  and  at  five  o'clock,  having  taken  leave  of 
Mr.  Bimey  and  their  friends,  seated  themselves  in  their  Uttle 
bark,  those  they  left  behind  watching  them  with  tearful 
eyes  and  swelling  hearts. 

As  they  receded  from  the  shore,  the  crew  began  singing 
cheerily  a  native  song,  till  the  short  \[f  again  with  the  mel- 
ody, keeping  as  exact  time  with  their  jjaddles  as  could  the 
most  scientific  of  New  England  singing  ma^^  ■<.  In  about 
twenty  minutes  they  rounied  Tongue  Point,  tw<  miles  di*; 
tant  from  Astoria,  and  were  hidden  from  the  gazers  on  shore. 
For  several  miles  they  passed  rapidly  along,  feasting  their  tyes 
upon  the  most  imposing  and  romantic  scenery.  On  cither 
side  were  towering  mountains,  solemn  forests  and  pleasant 
glades,  where  the  beams  of  the  setting  sun  crept  gently. 
and  rested  lovingly  on  the  soft  greensward.  Involuntarily 
their  thoughts  wandered  back  to  the  time  when  our  country, 
imtenanted  by  the  palefaces,  with  all  its  picturesque  love- 


Si's. 


'*!' 


■.!■«•> 


li 


HI 


58 


TEN  YEARS    Hi    OREGON*. 


,r,:t 


liness,  was  the  home  and  property  of  the  red  man ;  when 
he  roamed  througli  its  vast  solitudes,  undaunted  by  fears 
of  a  race  then  unknown  to  him,  which  has  since  become  his 
pitiless  persecutor.  They  caught  themselves  gazing  pity- 
ingly at  their  companions,  almost  fancying  that  their  mu- 
sings partook  of  a  similar  nature,  for  their  dark  faces  were 
grave  and  thoughtful,  and  their  song  had  died  on  their  lips. 
Twilight  stole  upon  them,  and  with  it  thoughts  and  scenes 
of  things  far  distant,  home  and  kindred,  and  they  were 
silent,  for  their  fancies  would  not  clothe  themselves  in  words. 
The  voice  of  the  pilot  broke  the  stillness,  as  he  proposed 
seeking  some  spot  on  shore,  on  which  to  pass  the  night. 
They  acquiesced,  and  the  men  paddled  more  slowly,  while  he 
searched  from  side  to  side  for  a  landing  place.  Suddenly 
he  pointed  in  a  certain  direction,  and  whispered  between  his 
closed  teeth,  hist !  and  following  with  their  eyes,  they  saw 
a  light  smoke  rising  from  the  tops  of  the  trees.  He  con- 
sulted the  men  in  whispers  a  few  moments,  and  then  turned 
the  head  of  the  canoe  towards  the  spot.  Slowly  and  cau- 
tiously they  floated  on,  and  a  sort  of  panic  seized  upon  the 
two  spectators,  and  their  recollection  called  before  them 
deeds  of  horror,  done  in  places  and  under  circumstances  less 
suited  to  their  perfonnance  than  this.  At  length  they  shot 
into  a  little  nook,  and  the  men  rested  upon  their  paddles. 
Before  them,  near  a  large  fire,  sat  an  Indian  man  and  wo- 
man, so  intent  upon  what  seemed  to  be  cooking,  that  the 
intruders  dropped  noiselessly  along  to  within  thirty  yards  of 
them  before  they  were  discovered.  When  their  eyes  rested 
upon  them,  they  started  to  their  feet,  and  a  loud,  sharp  'ugh !' 
rang  through  the  forest.  With  his  rifle  pointed  at  the  boat, 
the  man  glided  to  a  tree,  and  skulked  from  one  to  another 
till  quite  near  it,  when  he  sprang  into  a  thicket  and  disap- 


"> 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGOK. 


59 


pcared,  much  to  their  relief,  for  they  had  each  instant  ex- 
pected that  one  of  the  party  would  fall  by  the  deadly  aim 
of  the  savage.  It  would  have  been  a  rich  subject  for  Coop- 
er, with  his  peculiar  genius,  to  dwell  upon.  !'hc  crew 
seemed  perfectly  undisturbed  by  the  aspect  of  affairs,  sitting 
quietly  through  the  scene,  and  then  walking  composedly 
towards  the  fire,  where  they  were  in  a  few  moments  joined 
by  the  strange  Indian.  They  stood  together  for  several 
moments,  apparently  without  speaking,  when  the  pilot  went 
to  the  shore,  and  motioned  the  occupants  of  the  boat  to  come 
foiv/ard.  The  strangers  watched  them  closely,  but  allowed 
them  to  advance  without  interruption,  probably  convinced 
of  their  inoffensiveness.  After  a  time,  the  woman  stole  out 
from  among  the  trees,  and,  seating  herself  beside  her  hus- 
band, they  Avere  both  soon  quite  friendly.  They  presented 
their  visitors  with  some  wapatoes,  which  they  had  roasted, 
which,  although  they  were  not  as  delicious  as  the  best  of 
potatoes,  as  their  appetites  were  sharpened,  tasted  well. 

After  supper,  they  were  sufficiently  wearied  to  sleep,  and 
therefore  drew  the  canoe  ashore,  and  in  it  composed  them- 
selves to  rest  under  the  shelter  of  blankets.  They  slept 
sweetly  and  undisturbed  till  nearly  sunrise,  when  they  were 
awakened  by  the  rocking  of  the  boat,  and  found  that  by  the 
rising  of  the  tide,  they  were  almost  afloat. 

After  breakfast  they  were  again  on  their  way,  and  had 
not  been  long  on  the  river,  when  they  passed  the  tree,  high 
in  the  branches  of  which,  was  lodged  the  body  of  the  "  pet- 
nficd  or  preserved  sister."  TIic  story,  although  it  carried 
with  it  a  strong  appearance  of  improbability,  the  doctor  had 
no  inclination  to  disbelieve,  as  he  afterwards  heard  it  repeat- 
edly from  Mr.  Birney  and  Dr.  Townsend,  who  were  at  the 
time  travelling  through  the  country  with  Mr.  Nutall,  the 


'  ic 


:i=i 


■'     ,  •.    ■! 


;  s- 


60 


TEN   YEARS  IS   ORKaON. 


|l^-* 


P,    f 


i       :V 


famous  botanist,  and  others  who  were  acquainted  with  the 
facts,  for  a  tale  of  truth. 

Near  the  place,  several  years  previous,  had  lived  an  In- 
dian family,  of  which  little  was  known,  save  the  following 
circumstance  : 

A  daughter,  perhaps  between  sixteen  and  eighteen  years 
of  age,  was  afflicted  with  a  long  and  painful  illness.  She 
had  a  brother,  by  whom  she  was  passionately  beloved,  who 
would  sit  hours  by  her  bedside,  clasping  her  hand  in  his, 
and  bending  upon  her  looks  of  pity  and  affection.  When 
she  died,  his  distress  and  grief  knew  no  bounds,  and  he  had 
her  obsequies  performed  in  a  manner  entirely  differing  from 
the  usual  custom  of  the  tribe.  She  was  dressed  in  her 
holyday  robes  and  ornaments,  placed  carefully  upon  mats 
in  a  canoe,  and  suspended  in  the  topmost  boughs  of  an  alder. 
So  far  as  can  be  learned,  this  people  are  unacquainted  with 
any  art  of  embalming,  and  there  is,  therefore,  no  reason  for 
supposing  that  the  youth  resorted  to  such  means ;  but  cer- 
tain it  is,  that  he  visited  her  weekly,  mourning  over  the  dear 
remains  ;  and  after  some  time  elapsed,  he  announced  that 
he  did  not  believe  his  sister  was  dead,  as  she  had  not  begim 
to  decay  in  the  least.  The  friends  repaired  to  the  spot,  and 
found  it  as  he  had  said,  that  not  the  slightest  trace  of  de- 
composition could  be  discovered.  7L'his  phenomenon  contin- 
ued for  seven  or  eight  years,  at  which  time  Dr.  Townsend 
happening  to  hear  the  wonderful  stori(!S  of  the  "  yoimg  girl 
who  had  been  petrified  by  a  brother's  tears,"  determined  to 
obtain  a  sight  of  her.  This  he  succeeded  in  doing  unob- 
served, and  found  the  body  in  a  most  perfect  state  of  pres- 
ervation, wearing,  in  every  particular,  a  semblance  of  youth 
and  freshness.  He  was  stricken  with  amazement,  and  imme- 
diately resolved  to  steal  her  away  and   bring  her  to  the 


i 


TKK   YEARS  IN    OUKQON. 


61 


United  States,  where  lie  was  certain  she  would  be  to  him 
of  immense  value,  as,  never  within  his  knowledge,  had  such 
a  wonder  been  exhibited  there.  He  accomplished  the  busi- 
ness so  far  as  getting  the  corpse  from  the  tree,  and  even 
conveying  it  to  Astoria,  where  -Li.  Bimey  was  fearful  of  the 
consequences,  if  the  act  was  detected.  The  sequel  showed 
his  apprehensions  were  justifiable  ;  for,  in  a  day  or  two,  the 
brother,  on  his  first  visit  to  the  tree,  discovered  that  the  ca- 
noe was  vacant,  and  immediately  suspected  Dr.  Townsend, 
or  some  of  the  whites,  for  none  of  his  own  race  would  be 
guilty  of  disturbing  the  repose  of  the  dead.  Transported 
with  rage  and  grief,  he  immediately  assembled  a  band  of 
braves,  and,  armed  and  horridly  painted,  they  presented 
themselves  at  the  door  of  the  fort,  and  he  demanded  the  body 
of  his  sister.  At  first  Dr.  Townsend  disclaimed  all  knowledsfe 
of  it,  but  upon  Mr.  Birney's  representiEj^  lo  him  the  danger 
they  incurred,  himself  especially,  as  they  firmly  declared 
they  would  sacrifice  him  to  their  vengeance,  he  reluctantly 
consented  to  its  delivery.  They  received  the  corpse  with 
every  demonstration  of  reverence,  and,  carrying  it  back,  de- 
posited it  in  its  former  resting  place,  where  it  was  not  again 
disturbed.  It  was  now  supposed  that  the  situation  of  the 
body,  so  high  in  the  air,  and  the  sea  at  no  great  distance, 
the  saltness  of  the  atmosphere  prevented  putrescency  hav- 
ing any  power  over  it. 


•  .t 


62 


TEN   YBARS   IN    OREGON. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Indian  Village — KinJness  of  an  Indian  Woman — New  kind  of  Um- 
brella— Accident — Meeting  with  Dr.  Talmie — Killing  an  Eagle — 
Arrival  at  the  Fort — Garden  and  Plantation — Arrival  of  the  Diana — 
Mr.  Jason  Lee — Raillery  of  Miss  Pitman — Mr.  Lee'a  Introduciion — 
Leaving  the  Fort — Captain  Hinckley's  officiousness — Laughable  ar- 
rangement— Boat  races — Conclusion  respecting  Mr.  Lee — Putting 
in  for  the  night — Supper  and  walk — Pond — Pleasant  sail — Willa- 
mette Falls — A  tradition — Bargain — Portage — Elk  Bluff — Pudding 
River — Arrival  at  Battens  de  porte  McKoys — Letter — Departure  for 
the  Mission — Delightful  journey — Arrival  at  their  destination — Miss 
Downing  and  Mr.  Shepherd — His  appearance — Two  thousand  two 
hundred  miles  journey  ended — First  dinner. 


* 


k 


ll-«„ 


Near  tlic  tree  connected  with  the  foregoing  tale,  the  river 
fiboiinded  in  small  islands,  which,  during  the  June  freshets 
and  flood  tides,  were  nearly  hidden  from  sight.  The  valley 
or  bottom  of  the  river  here  was  wid  but  the  channel  nar- 
row, winding  and  difficult.  Towards  noon,  the  voyagers 
arrived  in  sight  of  an  Indian  hamlet,  which  consisted  of  a 
row  of  buildings,  if  I  may  so  call  them,  not  less  than  a  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  and  perhaps  thirty  in  width,  fonned  by 
planting  in  the  groimd  poles,  perhaps  twenty-five  feet  long, 
notching  the  ends,  with  others  extending  from  each  to  each, 
and  placing  against  them  barks,  the  whole  resembling  the 
roof  of  a  house.  Tovards  this  pilot  George  directed  the 
crew  to  row,  and  as  they  approached  the  shore,  large  num- 
bers of  both  sexes  and  all  size.s,  flocked  to  the  beach.  They 
seemed  to  bo  in  a  state  of  great  poverty  and  destitution. 


I 


TBN    YBARS   IN    OREGON. 


G3 


I  if 


Their  slight  clothing  was  of  skins,  and  almost  their  only  food 
salmon.  One  of  the  women  seeing  the  child,  came  forward 
with  a  large  piece  of  fish  in  her  hand,  the  grease  trickling 
through  her  brown  fingers,  and  offered  it  to  him.  Aft4.r 
some  little  repugnance,  Mrs.  White  took  it  and  gave  it  (o 
Silas,  who,  with  loss  fastidiousness  than  his  mother,  eagerly 
devoured  it. 

They  tarried  here  but  a  short  time,  and  had  been  on  the 
river  an  hour  longer,  when  the  heat  was  so  excessive,  that 
Mrs.  White  suffered  extremely  Avith  sickness  and  head-ache. 
They  now  felt  the  need  of  an  umbrella,  which  they  had 
been  unable  to  get  from  the  vessel,  for  they  were  destitute 
of  any  screen  to  shield  them  from  the  scorching  rays.  They 
pushed  to  the  shore,  and,  procuring  branches  of  the  yew, 
fastened  them  to  a  staff.  From  the  shade  of  this  they  ex- 
perienced sensible  relief,  and  the  Indians  chaunting  a  low, 
mellow  song,  a  'drowsiness  crept  over  the  senses  of  Mrs. 
White,  and,  yielding  to  the  soothing  influence,  she  fell  into 
a  refreshing  ^leep. 

Towards  evening  a  light  breeze  sprang  up,  and  they 
hoisted  a  sail.  This  was  done  by  fastening  a  blanket  to  a 
long  pole,  in  imitation  of  the  mainmast  of  a  ship.  As  tht; 
wind  freshened,  they  raised  another  similar,  which  very  much 
increased  their  speed.  As  they  were  passing  round  a  sharp 
point,  a  puff  of  wind  struck  one  of  the  sails,  and,  loosening  a 
corner,  turned  the  canoe  far  on  its  side,  imminently  endan- 
gering the  safety  of  its  occupants,  and  giving  them  a  hearty 
fright. 

At  this  moment  Dr.  Talmie,  from  the  fort  above,  hove  in 
eight,  on  his  way  to  the  Cowerlitz  settlement.  lie  saw  the 
accident,  and  hastened  to  the  spot,  without  the  expectation 
of  tlnding  a  single  survivor,  and  assuring  tl-.em  that  it  was 


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64 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREOON. 


little  less  than  a  miracle  that  they  were  saved.  They  found 
him  a  pleasant,  intelligent  young  man.  His  cordiality  and 
friendship  interested  them  much ;  and  their  past  danger  was 
forgotten  in  the  happiness  of  meeting  him.  He  informed 
them  that  they  were  about  thirty  miles  from  their  destina- 
tion, and  after  a  cheerful  chat  with  him,  they  separated, 
much  pleased  with  their  short  interview.  The  river  now 
gradually  widened;  the  hills  were  not  so  high,  and  they 
passed  many  ash  and  elm  swamps,  which,  like  the  islands 
during  the  June  freshets,  were  completely  inundated.  Dur- 
ing the  other  parts  of  the  year,  they  are  very  valuable  for 
grazing  purposes,  as  rushes  grow  there  in  great  abundance, 
but  are  nearly  useless  for  cultivation. 

As  they  sailed  on,  they  saw,  far  up  the  river,  a  speck  in 
the  sky,  which  they  observed  with  much  curiosity ;  it  enlarg- 
ed as  it  neared  them,  and  finally  proved  to  be  an  eagle,  the 
first  they  had  seen.  It  alighted  on  a  large  tree  at  some  dis- 
tance, and  the  Indians  paddled  swiftly  towards  it,  till  within 
fifty  or  sixty  yards,  when,  with  characteristic  Indian  stealth- 
iness,  they  floated  silently  a  few  moments,  while  one  of 
them  prepared  his  gun  to  fire.  The  noble  bird  sat  proud- 
ly in  his  lofty  station,  unaware  of  approaching  danger,  and 
our  friends  looked  on  him  with  pity,  as  he  received  the  dead- 
ly contents  of  the  weapon.  For  a  moment  he  sat  motionless, 
when  he  suddenly  toppled  and  wavered,  and  then  came 
Imrtling  over  and  over  through  the  air  to  the  ground.  With 
a  shout  of  triumph,  his  destroyer  leaped  ashore  to  secure  his 
prize.  This,  however,  he  did  not  find  easy ;  for  the  bird  was 
yet  alive,  and,  even  in  his  death-throes,  singularly  strong, 
and  fought  desperately  a  long  time.  At  last  he  succeeded 
in  kilUng  him,  and  they  found  him  unusually  large,  meas- 


i 


V  ■£ 


TKN   YEARS   IK   OREGON'. 


6: 


lis 

ras 

ed 


f  • 


uring  from  tip  to  tip  of  his  extended  wings,  nearly  nine  feet. 
ni.s  piercing  eyes,  noble  white  head,  and  majestic  form,  in- 
terested the  spectators. 

The  shades  of  evening  were  now  falling  around  them,  and 
they  sped  rapidly  towards  the   fort,  which  they  reached 
•about  midnight,  thoroughly  wearied  ;  the  monotony  of  the 
solitary,  gloomy  evening's  journey,  unbroken,  save  by  the 
repeated  filing  of  heavy  muskets,  to  apprise  its  inhabitants 
of  their  approach.     The  noise  rolled  and  reverberated  like 
thunder  through  the  hills,  awakening  the  echoes,  and  re- 
turning with  singular  effect.     The  crew  took  possession  of 
their  effects,  and  pilot  George  led  the  way  to  the  gate,  little 
more  than  half  a  mile  distant.     They  rapped  loudly  at  the 
portal,  and  were  answered  from  within  by  the  barking  of 
dogs.     In  a  few  moments  they  heard  a  heavy  step,  and  a 
gruff  voice  roughly  demanded  "  who 's  there  !"     They  an- 
swered that  they  were  strangers  from  the  states.     The  gate 
was  thrown   open,  and  they    were   admitted    by   Captain 
H(>lmes,  commander  of  the  ship  Vancouver,  who  was  after- 
wards droAvned  in  the  pilot  boat  at  Fort  George.     They 
were  next  politely  introduced  to  John  McLaughlin,  presi- 
dent of  the  Hudson's   Bay  Company  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.     This  dignified,    white-headed    old    gentleman, 
was  kind  and  affable  in  his  manners,  and  had  a  thousand 
questions  to  ask,  particularly  of  the  difficulty  between  the 
United  States  and  England,  upon  the  Maine  question,  which 
was  just  then  breaking  out.     Refreshments  were  ordered, 
and  thcv  sat  down  to  a  plain  but  excellent  board  ;  after 
which  the  steward  spread  their  mats  and  blankets  upon  the 
birth-like  fixtures,  then  the  only  beds  of  the  country,  and 
they  retired  for  the  night. 

The  next  morning  they  rose   early,  and  on  leaving  the 


m 


r'fl 


m 


^  .1 


i  • 


II': 


t 

1  •'  ■ 

t 

1 

i 

i  . 

a 

(^^ 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OKEOON. 


hoaso,  found  themselves  in  an  enclosure  of  stockudcs,  of 
perhaps  three  acres.  This  was  all  the  fortification  the  plac4- 
could  hoast.  In  this  enclosure,  on  one  side,  were  stores 
and  trroceries,  and  on  the  other,  mechanics'  shops  of  all 
kinds,  carried  on  with  as  much  precision  and  regularity  as 
in  any  town  of  New  Enj^land.  The  ground  unoccupied  by 
buildings  was  sodded,  and  grass  was  springing  up  in  freshness 
.?nd  beauty.  In  the  rear,  was  an  extensive  garden  and  or- 
Ciittrd,  containing  many,  and  some  rare,  sorts  of  vegetables, 
and  English  fruits  in  considerable  abundance.  After  break- 
fast, the  governor  politely  invited  the  doctor  to  accompany 
him  to  the  plantation,  where,  to  his  great  surprise,  he  found 
a  large  collection  of  horses,  sheep  and  neat  stock. 

As  they  were  returning  homeward  by  the  river  side,  at  a 
mile's  distance  on  their  right,  they  saw  the  Diana  in  full  sail 
for  the  fort,  where  she  soon  arrived,  bringing  safely  their 
cargo  and  all  the  missionaries.  The  doctor,  on  his  arrival  at 
the  fort,  had,  through  the  kindness  of  Dr.  McLaughlin,  sent 
a  despatch  to  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  superintendent,  requesting 
him  to  meet  and  escort  the  party  to  his  station,  southward 
about  seventy  miles  distant,  on  the  Willamette. 

The  day  following  the  coming  of  their  friends  from  Asto- 
ria, there  was  a  storm  of  wind,  and  in  the  midst  of  it  they 
descried  two  canoes,  laboring  with  great  difficulty  up  the 
river,  and  by  the  aid  of  his  glass.  Governor  McLaughlin  an- 
nounced that  Mr.  Lee  was  approaching.  Hereupon,  signif- 
icant, mischievous  glances  were  cast  at  Miss  Pitman,  and 
many  remarks  made  not  a  little  teazing  and  provoking.  She 
bore  it  well,  though  not  without  some  shrinking.  They  all 
sat  in  a  room  commanding  a  view  of  the  gate,  and  soon  saw 
from  it  Mr.  Lee  approaching  with  enormous  strides ;  he  asw 
over  six  feet  in  height,  broad  shouldered,  slightly  bent,  and 


TlLS   YKXHH    IN    OUI-(J ON. 


67 


I  an- 
Gfnif- 
and 
She 
y  all 
sa\r 
asvr 
and 


somowhiit  unijainly  in  his  nations.  Ah  he  came  forward, 
each  opened  upon  Miss  Pitniiin  a  prrtty  sevrre  firo  of  rail- 
lory,  till  sjio  became  eonsidenibly  ugituted.  He  entered  the 
room,  and  was  introduced  by  Mr.  McLaughlin  to  Dr.  White. 
They  greeted  each  other  cordi;dly,  and  he,  in  turn,  pres(;nt- 
cd  him  to  the  others,  re.icrving  Miss  Pitman  till  the  last  , 
and  when  they  met,  a  shower  of  smiling  looks  wore  turned 
\ipon  lier.  She  exerted  h(M\self  to  throw  oft'  her  embarrass- 
ment. A  light  blush  rose  to  her  cheek,  and  a  slight  trepi- 
dation, which  a(ld<'d  to  the  charm  of  her  manner,  was  all  the 
evidence  that  she  was  conscious  of  any  peculiarity  in  her 
position.  That  Mr,  TiCe  was  pleased,  could  be  easily  discov- 
•»red  from  the  complaisance  of  his  bearing,  and  the  trouble  he 
took  to  render  himself  a<>;reeable. 

The  next  afternoon  the  expedition  started  for  their  final 
destination.  Captain  Hinckley  made  himself  very  officious 
in  the  arrangements,  which  was  accounted  for  from  the  fact 
that  his  wife  was  to  accompany  them.  Each  person  had 
their  place  assigned  them,  and  poor  Miss  Pitman  found  her- 
self with  Mr.  Lee,  the  last  to  leave  the  shore.  She  stood  in 
much  embarrassment,  depending  upon  the  captain  for  a  seat ; 
and  the  spectators  now  found  what  had  made  him  so  active, 
for  he  handed  her  to  a  canoe  where  there  were  none  but 
natives,  unable  to  comprehend  a  word  of  English,  and  seat- 
ed Mr.  Lcc  by  her  side  for  a  two  days'  joumoy.  It  was  a 
severe  joke  upon  both,  for  it  was  not  only  in  the  presence 
of  the  missionaries,  but  of  all  tl\e  English  residents  of  the 
fort,  and  f-^'iy  well  understood  i',  as  could  plainly  be  seen 
from  the  ready  smiles  that  circukted  from  face  to  face  of 
the  whole  company.  It  was  a  fine  afternoon,  and  the  little 
caravan  pushed  off  cheerily. 

During  their  voyage,  racing  aitorded  them  much  amuee- 


I 


J;ll 


'If- 


» 
'  i 

I 


66 


TEN   YEARS   IX    ORKGON. 


I,  ■* 


V  ,»• 


ment.  They  were  accompanied  by  Mr.  Whitcomb,  from  t  ic 
Sandwich  Islands,  wlio  had  been  officer  of  a  vessel,  and  Mr. 
Wilson,  and  they  were  both  good  rowers. 

Mr.  Lee  prided  himself  on  his  skill,  and  with  reason,  too, 
for  after  long  and  doubtful  contests  he  would  come  off  vic- 
tor, and  it  was  jokingly  conceded  that  he  'was  just  the  man 
for  superintendent ;  as,  in  spite  of  all  efforts  to  the  contrary, 
he  would  take  the  lead. 

Till  sunset,  they  travelled  merrily  on, — the  boats  passing 
and  repassing,  sometimes  so  closely  that  their  jolly  crews 
could  join  hands, — when  ihey  put  into  a  little  nook  to  encamp 
for  the  night.  Here  they  found  a  beautiful  oak  orchard 
grove,  and  made  preparations  to  rest  under  its  pleasant 
shade. 

They  made  a  supper  of  salmon,  potatoes,  bread,  nice  but- 
ter, and  tea,  after  which  T.iey  gave  themselves  the  pleasure 
of  a  stroll  on  the  lawn,  as  it  might  be  termed  ;  short  prairie 
grass,  which  grew  very  delicately,  in  the  shadow  of  the  trees. 

They  loitered  on  till  they  leached  a  gentle  eminence,  from 
which  they  ha:l  a  superb  view  of  a  broad  lake-like  pond,  its 
bosom  literally  teeming  with  geese,  wild  ducks  and  swans. 

At  eleven  o'clock  the  next  day,  after  a  delightful  sail, 
they  arrived  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette.  These  arc 
about  thirty-eight  feet  in  height,  and  are  situated  in  a  ro- 
mantic spot,  is  one  of  the  finest  aud  most  eligible  places  for 
water  privileges  in  Oregon.  It  is,  and  perhaps  ever  will  bo, 
famed  in  Indian  annals  for  being  the  scene  of  events  dear  to 
the  recollection  of  the  red  man. 

It  seems  the  country  about  the  falls  was  once  inhabited 
by  a  tribe,  at  the  head  of  which  Avas  a  chief,  whose  standing 
was  similar  to  that  of  dictator.  He  was  noted  far  and  wide 
for  his  great  powers  of  mind,  and,  unlike  his  race,  was  kind 


I 


tS 


!      '       I'll 


TEN  VEAnS    IN    OUEGOK. 


dd 


I 


and  generous  to  his  people,  and  never  restricted  or  infringed 
upon  their  rights,  and  studied  to  gratify  them  in  (^vory  re- 
spect consistent  with  what  he  conceived  to  be  liis  duty. 
His  noble  nature  revolted  at  every  thing  like  despotism, 
and  yet  he  ruled  his  subjects  perfectly  through  their  affec- 
tions. They  loved  him  as  they  would  have  done  a  dear 
father.  He  was,  in  fact,  their  idol ;  and  to  him  were  ren- 
dered honors  as  were  never  before  granted  a  sinyle  chieftain 
in  the  western  world.  When  he  attended  council,  he  was 
borne  thither  upon  a  mat  litter,  on  the  shoulders  of  eight 
men.  Indeed,  could  they  have  had  their  will,  he  never 
would  have  gone  abroad  except  in  the  arms  of  his  subjects. 
What  is  most  singular,  this  affection  and  reverence  never  di- 
minished, and  his  latter  years  were  cheered  by  the  soothing 
cares  of  his  faithful  friends.  It  is  said  to  be  about  seventy 
years  since  this  chief  expired,  and  he  is  still  in  tradition  re- 
membered and  deeply  mourned  by  the  scattered  remnant  of 
his  tribe.  These  are  but  few,  for  while  living  peacefully  on 
the  banks  of  the  Willamette,  they  in  some  manner  incurred 
the  displeasure  of  a  neighboring  tribe,  who  came  upon  them, 
and  in  a  single  night  destroyed  large  numbers,  and  they  have 
never  since  regained  their  former  prosperity.  This  event  is 
supposed  to  have  taken  place  some  lifty-six  years  since.  At 
this  place  the  travellers  were  detained  till  one  o'clock  bar- 
gaining with  the  Indians,  whom  they  found  encamped  in 
large  numbers,  to  transport  their  canoes  and  b;iggage  round 
the  falls,  over  the  steep,  craggy  rocks,  whi(;h  was  too  tedious 
and  difficult  a  task  for  themselves  to  undertake.  At  last  they 
agreed  to  do  it  for  each  five  charges  of  ammunition,  and  in 
addition  a  large  cotton  handkerchief  for  their  chief.  The 
portage  was  made,  and  they  were  again  afloat,  now  on 
the  Willamette,  and  shortly  pas>od  Elk  Bluff,  a  precipice 


Hi 


hi 


70 


TEN    YE  Alts   IN    OKEGON. 


M 


seven  hunnred  feet  in  height.  About  sunset  they  reached 
Pudding  river,  a  tiihutary  to  the  WiHamette,  and  Hgain  en- 
camped as  on  the  previous  night.  In  an  early  day,  those 
who  passed  through  the  country,  were  obh'ged  to  travel  in 
hirge  companies,  on  account  of  the  number  and  hostility  of 
the  natives.  One  of  these  parties,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  had  been  reduced  to  great  extremities,  almost 
starvation,  and  with  difficulty  reached  this  place  for  encamp- 
ment. Here  their  sufferings  were  so  great  that  they  were 
obliged  to  slay  their  horses  for  sustenance.  Of  the  blood 
they  made  puddings,  and  hence  the  name  of  ihe  river. 

The  ne.Yt  morning  they  were  again  off  in  high  glee,  ex- 
pecting soon  to  reach  a  final  landing.  They  arrived  at  Bat- 
tens de  porte,  McKoy's,  at  eight  o'clock  A.  M ,  where  they 
were  to  obtain  horses,  and  make  the  remainder  of  the  jour- 
ney by  land.  This  old  hunter,  Avho  had  accompanied  Mr. 
Hunt  across  the  Bocky  Mountains,  iji  the  service  of  John 
Jacob  Astor,  received  them  with  nobI<%  warm  hearted  hos- 
pitality, truly  pioneer-like. 

Here  Mr.  Lee  received  a  lettar  from  Mr.  Daniel  Lee,  sta- 
ting that  no  less  than  twelve  persons  lay  sick  at  the  mission, 
and  some  dangerously,  begging  Dr.  White  to  hasten  forward 
1ft  ith  all  possible  despatch. 

Accordingly,  Mrs.  Hinckley,  Miss  Duwning,  Mis.s  Pitm;in, 
Dr.  White,  and  Mr.  Wilson,  started  for  the  mission,  si.xtcen 
miles  distant,  leaving  Mrs.  White  and  the  otliers  to  follow 
at  a  less  liipid  rate. 

Tliey  continually  found  features  of  country  entirely  new  to 
^hem.  Here  were  broad  prairies,  covered  ^Yith  fine,  nutn- 
tious  grass,  its  greatest  height  not  more  than  six  inches, 
studded  thicklv  with  the  most  delicatelv  beautiful  flowers 
tlioy  had  ever  seen.     They  were  idl  lovev<  of  in 'are  in  her 


I 


TEN    YEARS    IN    ORKGON'. 


71 


bt  auty,  and  now  had  their  fill  of  that  kind  of  enjoyment, 
which  is  derived  from  contemplating  her  in  her  mildest 
mood  and  loveliest  dress. 

About  the  middle  of  the  day  they  arrived  at  their  desti- 
nation, the  ladies  somewhat  wearied  with  their  long  ride. 
Passing  round  the  corner  ol  a  wood,  they  came  in  view  of  a 
large  log  house,  at  which  a  boy,  who  had  met  them  on  their 
way,  pointed,  saying,  in  broken  English,  "dat  de  mission." 

As  they  approached,  a  tall,  fine  looking  man,  in  a  brown 
liiicn  frock,  apparently  about  thitty-five  years  of  age,  came 
from  the  house.  He  started  back  on  seeing  them,  and  the 
blood  rushed  to  his  face,  but  it  was  too  late  to  retreat,  and 
he  accordingly  advanced  to  meet  them.  "  Is  that  Mr.  Shep- 
herd ?"  mischievously  whispered  Mrs.  Hinckley  to  Miss 
Downing,  Mr.  Shepherd's  bride  elect.  "  It  must  be  Mr. 
Daniel  Lee,"  returned  she.  However,  she  soon  introduced 
him  as  Mr.  Shepherd. 

The  contrast  in  the  dress  of  the  two  was  laughably  stri- 
king, and  the  purturbed  face  of  the  gentleman  showed  thai 
he  was  aware  of  it.  She  had  attired  herself  neatly  and 
prettily,  while  he  was  clothed  as  I  have  mentioned.  How- 
over,  his  apology  was  that  he  was  not  aware  that  they  were 
quite  so  near.  There  were  no  ladies  at  the  mission,  so  that 
he  was  obliged  to  make  all  the  preparations  for  the  expected 
arrival,  and  had  apparelled  himself  according  to  his  business. 

The  day  was  an  era  in  the  lives  of  our  friends,  and  had  not 
the  number  of  sick  demanded  all  their  attention,  their  minds 
would  have  been  engrossed  by  the  reflection  that  their  two 
thousand  two  hundred  miles'  journey  was  at  length  ended, 
and  sombre  forests  and  wide  prairie  were  now  to  be  their 
home  for  years,  if  not  for  life. 

They  had  often  wondered,  as  the  two  Lees  and  Mr.  Shep  • 


m 


ttf 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OREGOK. 


herd  had  kept  bachelor's  hall  for  several  years,  whether  they 
would  not  be  embarrassed  in  theu*  arrangements,  by  the 
presence  of  ladies,  and  the  thoughts  again  returned  to  their 
minds,  as  they  awaited  the  dinner  hour.  The  table  was 
laid  with  a  tidy  brown  linen  cloth,  bright  tin  plates,  knivess 
and  forks,  and  they  parte  ok  with  much  zest  of  fried  venison, 
sausages,  cheese,  unbolted  bread,  butter  and  fried  cakes,  all 
(}{  Mr.  Shepherd's  manufacture,  and  very  nice.  At  desserL 
ihey  were  regaled  with  a  bountiful  dish  of  strawberries. 


II 


1   - 


\    I 


TEN    YEARS    IN   ORKGON. 


73 


ii 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


■  \ 


Mr.  Daniel  Lee — Stroll  in  the  garden — lis  beauty — AccommoJatlons 
— Mission  children — Names — Su'feringfj  of  the  chief — Improvements 
Miss  Pitman  and  Mr.  Lee — The  two  marriages. 

Just  as  they  were  sitting  down  to  dinner,  Mr.  Daniel 
Lee  entered  the  house  and  gave  them  a  warm  greeting.  As 
he  had  been  watching  with  the  sick  the  night  previous, 
thinking  to  shake  off  his  dullness,  he  had  wandered  into  the 
prairie,  and  after  plucking  a  few  berries,  had  thrown  him- 
self down  under  a  tree  and  fallen  asleep,  where  he  had  re- 
mained several  hours,  which  was  the  reason  for  his  not  ma- 
king his  appearance  sooner.  His  language  was  enthusiastic, 
as  he  spoke  of  the  benefit  likely  to  accrue  from  the  rein- 
forcement to  the  mission,  and  his  glowing  expressions  cheered 
a,nd  encouraged  them  in  no  small  degree.  This  gentleman 
was  the  nephew  of  Jason  Lee,  and  had  accompanied  him  on 
his  first  expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  these  two  be- 
ing the  first  missionaries  ever  sent  to  that  country. 

After  the  repast,  they  rambled  through  the  garden,  ac- 
companied by  Mr.  Lee  and  half  a  dozen  of  the  mission  cliil- 
drcn.  It  was  kept  with  more  taste  and  neatness  than  the 
one  at  the  fort,  although  that  was  older,  and  therefore  its 
fruits  more  advanced  ;  but  the  vegetables  and  flowers  were 
(]uite  as  luxuriant  and  various.  They  were  afterwards  often 
amused  by  Gov.  McLaughlin  sending  a  huge  beet,  or  a  few 
rare  specimens  of  fruit  to  Mr.  Shepherd,  challenging  him  to 


w> 


il      t 


J      I 


»    ' 


74 


TEN    YEAKS   IN    OllKOON. 


|)i\>duce  their  equal,  wliich  ho  more  frequently  excelled  than 
otherwise. 

The  sick  were  strewed  about  the  floor  of  the  house  on 
mats  and  blankets,  from  which  might  be  inferred  that  they 
were  not  well  accommodated  ;  but  their  conveniences  were 
a>s  good  as  could  be  supphed  in  the  small  space  occupied, 
for  there  were  fifty-four  whites  and  Indians  together,  under 
the  roof,  during  the  summer  months,  and  the  mansion  wa« 
not  of  extraordinary  dimensions,  being  forty  feet  by  eigh- 
teen. It  would  be  supposed  that  the  general  health  would 
suffer  in  consequence  ;  but  it  did  not. 

The  mission  children  have  been  mentioned,  and  we  will 
now  return  to  them.  There  were,  at  that  time,  thirty-eight 
of  them,  principally  orphans,  which  these  benevolent  men 
had  rescued  from  great  destitution,  and  were  educating  and 
instructing  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  and  some  of  them  had 
made  considerable  advancement.  For  a  time  after  their  in- 
stalment with  the  Avhites,  it  was  said  they  would  exhibit  all 
the  restlessness  characteristic  of  the  race,  and  wander  off  to 
the  prairies,  often  causing  their  kind  protectors  more  trouble 
to  retain  than  to  feed  and  clothe  them.  Several  were 
named  after  very  grave  individuals,  such  as  Elijah  Hcdding. 
William  Brooks,  Nathan  Bangs  and  Wilbcr  Fisk.  The  ca- 
reers of  some  of  these  were  very  eventful,  especially  Wil- 
liam Brooks,  who  died  in  the  states,  and  Elijah  Hedding ; 
but  I  will  speak  of  thera  more  fully  another  time.  The 
night  after  the  arrival  of  the  new  recruit,  Dr.  White  was 
called  to  minister  to  a  great  chief,  named  Sonick,  about 
two  miles  distant,  who  had  een  shot,  while  sleeping,  by  a 
slave ;  one  ball  carrying  away  a  part  of  the  under  jaw,  an- 
other wounding  his  breast,  and  a  third  entering  his  elbow  and 
lodging  in  the  palm  of  the  hand.     lie  was  terribly  mutila- 


TEN     YKAKS    IN    OKEGOX. 


75 


'»■■  '• 


U:J,  and  till  excepting  the  doctor  dcspiiired  of  hi^^  life,  and 
he  only  entertaining  a  hope  from  his  losing  such  a  quantity 
of  blood,  thereby  preventing  inflammation.  His  physical 
sufferings  were  great,  but  his  mental  torture  inexpressible, 
buing  in  continual  fear  that  his  enemy  would  yet  hunt  him 
out  and  murder  him.  He  lingered  a  long  time  and  finally 
recovered,  but  a  most  pitiable  looking  object.  A  few  weeks 
subsequent,  a  sickness  began  to  be  prevalent  ;  and  the  doc- 
tor suspecting  that  it  was  caused  by  impure  atmosphere,  on 
carefully  examining,  found  that  large  quantities  of  vegetable 
matter,  Avhich  had  been  washed  up  by  a  river  freshet,  was 
in  a  state  of  decomposition.  Also,  about  three  hundred 
yards  in  front  of  the  house,  was  a  thick  clump  of  wood, 
which  prevented  a  free  circulation  of  air  from  the  prairie  in 
its  rear.  With  the  help  of  the  boys  this  was  remedied,  and 
the  general  health  soon  improved.  They  did  not  remove 
I  lie  timber  entirely,  but  climbed  into  the  trees,  and  with  their 
hatchets  lopped  the  branches,  thereby  accomplishing  the 
object,  and  sparing  the  noble  trees,  which  they  were  un- 
willing to  sacrifice. 

This  grove  has  connected  with  it  many  interesting  associ- 
ations. Araoni;  them  are  the  marna<xes  of  Mr.  Lee  and 
Miss  Pitman,  Mr.  Sheplierd  and  Miss  Downing.  From  the 
moment  thai  Mr.  Lee  and  Miss  Pitman  so  tamely  submitted 
to  Capt.  Ilinckey's  orders  at  Fort  Vancouver,  an  attachment 
sprang  up  between  them.  They  were  much  in  each  other's 
society,  and  often  indulged  themselves  in  long  rides  on  the 
prairies ;  notwithstanding  all  this,  with  so  much  secrecy 
were  their  affairs  managed,  that  none  knew  Avhether  there 
was  anything  more  serious  in  the  future,  or  not.  With  Miss 
Downing  and  Mr.  Shepherd,  it  was  different ;  all  was  open 
and  frank :  there  was   no  diflieultv  in  understanding  their 


■J , 


1^..' 


,•  M:'5'' 

i  ■  ■,  ' 

W'  .  ■' 

'  '■'.,  .  '■  ■ 

I       I.   , 


''  i 


'■'jf 


M 


^    { 


'76 


TEN    YEARS    IX    OREGON. 


intentions,  and  in  three  -weeks  it  Avas  announced,  that  they 
would,  on  the  following  Sabbath,  be  united  in  the  grove, 
and  the  neighbors  invited  to  witness  the  nuptials.  The  day 
was  fine,  and  as  this  was  the  first  marriage  of  the  kind  that 
had  taken  place  in  the  country,  a  large  concourse,  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  was  assembled.  After  a  hymn  and 
prayer,  Mr.  Lee  arose  and  delivered  a  very  pathetic  dis- 
course, after  which  he  alluded  to  the  approaching  ceremony, 
and  made  a  few  remarks,  much,  in  substance,  as  the  foUoAV- 
ing :  "  Friends  and  neighbors,  you  are  aware  that  I  have  al- 
ways urged  upon  you  the  duty  and  propriety  of  lawful  mar- 
riage. I  have  never  been  remiss  in  warning  you  against  the 
sinful  practices  so  prevalent  in  this  country.  They  are 
wrong  in  the  eyes  of  all  the  civilized  world,  and  what  is  infi- 
nitely worse,  in  the  sight  of  heaven.  What  I  urge  upon  you 
by  precept,  I  am  dertermined  this  day  to  enforce  by  exam- 
ple;" and  to  the  astonishment  of  the  assembly  he  strode 
forward  in  s  somewhat  hurried  and  confused  manner  to  the 
place  where  Miss  Pitman  sat,  extending  his  long  arm,  which 
motion  she  seemed  perfectly  to  understand,  for  she  as  quickly 
seized  the  trembling  digits  at  its  extremity,  and  in  military 
parlance,  marched  back  in  double  quick  time,  and  wheeling 
to  the  right,  presented  a  bold  front  to  the  wondering,  half 
amused  spectators.  Mr.  Daniel  Lee  slowly  arose,  and  open- 
ing the  discipline  with  the  gravity  of  a  bishop,  with  would- 
be  solemnity,  which  added  new  impulse  to  the  half-stifled 
mirth  of  the  lookers  on,  repeated  the  marriage  rite,  and  the 
twain  were  made  one.  After  this  singular  scene,  Mr.  Shep- 
herd and  Miss  Downing  took  their  stand.  Mr.  Lee  occupied 
the  place  of  his  nephew,  and  after  the  second  ceremony,  the 
congregation  dispersed,  and  the  friends  of  the  wedded  re- 
turned to  a  dinner  prepared  by  the  other  ladies  of  the  mission. 


j ; 


t      4  -" 


TEK   YEAU8   IK    OULGO.V. 


11 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Occiipation8 — Harvesting — Mr.  Lee's  expertness — Temperance  meet- 
ings— Ewing  Young  and  his  distillery — Customs  of  the  Hudson's 
IJay  Company — Action  of  Gov.  McLaughlin. 

After  the  above  marriages,  the  wedded  pairs  started  for 
tlie  coast,  where  they  remained  a  short  time,  sea  batliing 
being  necessary  for  Mr.  Shepherd,  as  he  had  been,  for  some 
time,  in  deUcate  health  ;  and  the  others  went  about  their 
occupations  for  the  warm  season.  Some  of  tlie  men  com- 
menced erecting  houses  for  the  famiUes  of  Dr.  White  and 
Mr.  Beers,  others  a  blacksmith  sliop,  and  fitting  up  a  com- 
modious log  school-room,  which  was  likewise  used  for  a 
place  of  worship.  Messrs.  Beers  and  Wilson  had  taken  upon 
them  to  transport  the  goods  from  Fort  Vancouver,  which 
was  a  tedious  business,  as  the  river  was  rapid,  and  difficult 
of  navigation,  especially  above  the  falls.  Mr.  Daniel  Lee, 
with  his  troop  of  boys,  took  charge  of  the  farming  and  gar- 
dening operations  till  harvest  time,  when  all  entered  the 
field ;  even  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  when  he  returned,  wielded  the 
cradle,  and  the  doctor  raking  and  binding  after  him ;  and 
here  all  found  him,  as  on  the  river,  more  than  their  equal. 
Harvest  being  ended,  it  Avas  decided  to  hold  a  temperance 
meeting,  on  which  occasion  all  the  American  residents,  as  well 
a3  the  Canadian  French  and  their  families,  were  assembled  en 
masse.  There  were  several  sipritcd  addresses,  and  it  was 
converted  into  a  kind  of  sociable  gathering,  and  was  alto- 
gether an  entertainmg  affair.  This  was  not  the  first  temper- 
ance meeting  that  had  been  held  in  the  country ;  for  two  years 


18 


TEN   YEARS  IN    O  KEG  ON, 


previous  Mr.  Lee  had  convened  meetings,  iind  «iade  consid- 
erable progression  in  the  cause.  One  incident  oi  his  exer- 
tions is  well  worthy  of  recording.  A  gentleman  named  E\v- 
ing  Young  had  erected  a  building  in  which  he  proposed  car- 
rying on  distilling.  Mr.  Lee  called  on  and  remonstrated 
with  him,  but  in  >'ain,  he  refused  to  relinquish  a  project  so 
nearly  afl'ecting  his  interest.  Mr.  Lee  stated  the  case  to  his 
friends,  and  represented  to  them  the  vast  amount  of  evil 
promising  to  accrue  from  t!:o  establishment.  He  enlisted 
their  feelings,  and,  although  so  little  ablt;  to  do  so,  they 
raised  a  considerable  sum  of  money,  and  laid  it  before  ^fr. 
Yoiuig  for  his  acceptance,  provided  he  relinquislicd  the  en- 
terprise. He  was  considerably  affected  by  this  expression, 
and  informed  Mr.  Lee  that  if  such  was  the  sense  of  the  com- 
munity on  the  subject,  he  would  not  so  far  trespass  on  it  as 
to  persist  in  his  design.  He  iimediately  did  as  he  had 
promised,  notwithstanding  he  liad  completed  the  building, 
raised  the  arch  and  set  the  boiler,  soon  afterward  embarked 
with  about  twenty  of  his  neighbors  in  an  expedition  to  Cal- 
ifornia for  cattle,  as,  with  the  exception  of  those  brought  in 
by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  country  was  quite  desti- 
tute. This  was  really  a  virtuous  triumph,  ci'editable  to  both 
parties.  Mr.  Lee's  reasons  for  his  course,  at,  so  early  a  pe- 
riod, were  that  it  was  the  custom  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany to  present  a  few  gallons  of  liquor  to  the  head  of  each 
family  every  holiday,  especially  Christmas  aiid  New  Years. 
This  had  been  attended  with  pernici(jus  effects,  ruinous  to 
the  health  and  peace  of  the  inhabitants.  In  some  instances, 
the  brawls  so  produced,  almost  resulted  in  murder ;  at  one 
time  a  woman  lay  insensible  thirty  days,  brought  to  the  point 
of  death  by  the  nand  of  her  drunken  husband.  Mr.  Lee 
was  desirous  of  discourtenancing  this  practice,  as  far  as  pes- 


■4r1 


TKN    YEARft   IN    OUKOOK. 


79 


<iblo,  and  often  conversed  with  Gov.  Mffjjiughlin  to  this 
fffcct.  As  might  be  expected  from  a  man  r»f  liis  deci^-ion 
of  character  and  phihmthropic  disposilion,  the  governoi 
readily  and  cheerfullj'  concurred  witli  him,  and  ev<m  ^\^'\V 
so  far  as  to  decide  that  no  grains  sliould  be  ground  in  the 
mills  of  the  company  for  distilling  of  liquors,  and  gave  such 
intimation  to  Mr.  Young. 


A.    f  ■  V 


I 

I 


ivv.:. 


60 


TEN*   VHARS   IN    OUEaON". 


.    1 


1   i 


■i 

■►!■     .    . 


•I 


CHAPTER  X. 

Endciivors  to  reacli  home  fiom  Fort  Vancouver  by  a  new  route — Be- 
wiUerinent  in  the  woods — Fears — Unsatisfactory  interview — Hun- 
ger and  weariness  of  the  pony — Despondency — Hunger  and  fatigue 
— Hallooing  for  succor — Seeking  a  place  to  rest — Ascent  into  a  tree 
— Passing  several  hours  in  the  saddle — Bed  on  the  ground — Fears 
of  wild  animals — Witlf  story — Morning — Departure — Steep  hill — 
^Juspicions — Sudden  resolution — Reach  the  Willamette — Despond- 
ency— Paddles — Mrs.  Bilake — Hunger  and  disappointment — Duck — 
Odd  reply — "  A  watched  pot  never  boils" — Arrival  at  Mrs.  B's  resi- 
dence— Home. 

The  first  autumn  of  his  residence  at  the  mission,  the  doc- 
l<iv,  having  a  patient  afflicted  with  a  threatening  tumor,  it 
became  necessary  that  he  should  consult  with  his  fellow 
physician,  Dr.  Talmie,  and  for  that  purpose  visited  Fort 
Vancouver.  Five  days  after,  the  man  being  pronounced  out 
of  danger.  Dr.  White  started  on  his  return. 

Passing  the  portage  at  the  falls  with  little  difficulty,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  natives,  he  hastened  on,  exceedingly 
tmxious  to  reach  home,  as  his  absence  had  already  been  of 
greater  length  than  he  had  anticipated,  and  little  Silas  was 
in  delicate  health.  As  they  passed  rapidly  forward,  the 
crew  in  fine  spirits,  their  attention  was  attracted  by  a  couple 
of  Indians  on  horseback,  issuing  from  the  woods  on  the 
right.  The  curly-headed  negro  pilot  gave  them  a  hearty 
salute,  and  on  enquiry,  the  doctor  learned  that  they  were 
immediately  from  the  mission,  and  that  by  land  the  distance 


TK;C    YKAUS   IN    OREO  OK. 


81 


re 
;e 


was  not  as  groat  as  by  the  river,  and  might  bo  made  in  half 
the  time.  The  route  wa.s  represented  as  plain  and  safe,  and 
il  required  but  little  more  uiformation  to  induce  the  doc- 
tor to  endeavor  to  find  his  way  home  on  horseback,  and 
therefore  accomplishing,  with  his  tawny  friends,  the  loan  of 
a  horse,  and  bidding  his  company  adieu,  he  sat  off  tilled  with 
high  hopes  of  reaching  home  and  family  that  evening.  The 
direction  lay  south-westerly,  over  a  long  range  of  high  hills, 
in  a  tortuous,  ancient  Indian  path,  and  he  had  not  pro- 
ceeded far,  when  he  found  now  and  then  another  shooting 
oiV  in  nearly  the  same  course.  This  was  unexpected  and 
.')eriously  harrassing,  and  a  little  farther  on  this  embarrass- 
ment was  increased  by  the  dry,  fallen  leaves  obscuring  the 
trail,  till,  at  length,  the  traveller  became  totally  uncertain 
whether  or  not  he  was  in  a  trail;  and  if  so,  whether  it  wa«* 
the  right  one. 

In  complete  bewilderment,  he  stopped  and  gazed  almost 
hopelessly  around,  when,  to  his  joy,  he  saw  an  Indian  mat- 
ron, perhaps  sixty  years  of  age,  advancing  towards  him. 
He  accosted  her,  and  enquired  the  way  to  Charapoeg,  tlic 
nearest  point  to  the  mis.sion.  She  shook  her  head,  not  com- 
prehending Ills  meaning,  and  articulated  a  few  words,  by 
which  her  questioner  was  as  much  puzzled  as  she  had  been 
at  his.  He  essayed  a  reply,  but  it  was  useless,  as  she  coiUd 
no  more  understand  his  Greek  than  he  her  Hebrew.  After 
Several  fruitless  attempts  at  conversation,  met  by  her  with 
suspicious  shyness,  they  separated,  the  doctor  regretting, 
and  half  vexed,  that  the  interview  should  have  proved  so 
unsatisfactory.  The  shadows  of  night  began  to  gather,  and 
troubled  thoughts  to  crowd  before  his  mind.  lie  went  on, 
or  rather  groped  his  way  along,  till  he  emerged  into  a  prai- 
rie, when  the  poor,  jaded  pony  was  so  much  exhausted  that 
6 


*l        * 


il 


82 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGOJ;. 


¥{ 


his  rider  concluded  to  walk,  which  he  did  for  several  miles, 
when  Aveak  with  hunger  as  well  as  fatigue,  he  mounted* 
On  again  entering  the  woods,  he  once  more  dismounted,  and 
led  the  horse,  which  much  impeded  his  progress  ;  the  tired 
creature  was  tormented  by  hunger,  and  scumbled  along  from 
side  to  side,  snatching  now  and  the.i  a  nibble  from  the  thick 
imdergrowth.  Intending  to  reach  home  that  night,  he  had 
freed  himself  from  all  encumbrance,  and  was  therefore  un- 
provided with  blanket,  gun,  flint  or  food,  and  clothed  in  a 
light  summer  suit,  unfitted  to  protect  him  from  the  penetra- 
ting night  damps.  He  pushed  on  till  dense  darkness  closed 
around  him,  and  he  was  no  longer  able  to  trace  a  path,  and 
now  became  seriously  alarmed,  fearing  that  he  was  irretriev- 
ably lost  in  that  vast  wilderness,  and  if  so,  in  what  a  miser- 
able condition — ^no  food  and  no  means  for  procuring  it. 
Putting  aside  the  thought  as  quickly  as  possible,  he  pressed 
manfully  forward,  till  from  weariness,  darkness  and  gnawing 
hunger — having  eaten  nothing  but  a  few  dried  hemes,  which 
he  found  still  clinging  to  the  bushes,  since  morning — it  was 
impossible  to  go  farther.  Then  he  hallooed  with  all  his 
strength,  and  listened  with  straining  ears  for  an  answer, 
which  he  hoped  might  reach  him  from  the  settlement.  The 
Old  forest  reverberated,  and  the  echoes  went  and  returned, 
till  he  almost  fancied  he  heard  another  voice.  He  repeated 
the  cry,  this  lime  pitching  his  voice  on  a  higher  key,  till  it 
sounded  most  unearthly.  This  produced  no  different  effect, 
eave  the  hoarse  croak  of  a  sohtary  bird  in  the  mountain.  He 
listened  long  and  intently,  but  the  low  sough  of  the  wind  in 
the  tall  trees  alone  rewarded  him,  and  he  determined,  find- 
ing such  efforts  useless,  to  establish  himself  for  the  night. 
An  old  hollow  t'-ee  woidd  have  been  a  welcome  retreat,  to 
protect  him  from  the  cold;  but  such  a  shelter  Le  dare  not 


to 


4 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


88 


i 


seek,  lest  a  stronger  than  he  should  before  moniing  require 
it  at  his  hand.  So  he  fastened  the  pony  to  the  foot  of  a 
large  tree  and  left  it  to  its  fate,  and  being  a  good  climber, 
mounted  into  the  branches,  drew  the  saddle  after  him,  and 
placed  it  across  one  of  the  boughs,  where  he  placed  himself 
upon  it,  lashed  his  body  as  securely  as  possible  to  the  Kmbs 
and  trunk,  and  sat  there  as  formally  as  though  upon  the 
back  of  his  Bucephelas.  He  then  crossed  his  arms  upon  a 
branch,  pillowed  his  wearied  head  upon  them,  and  half- 
starved  as  he  was,  and  in  such  a  »>'ecarious  situation,  almost 
immediately  dropped  asleep.  His  dreams  he  did  not  remem- 
ber, and  on  waking,  and  judging  from  the  time  of  day  dawn 
he  must  have  remained  there  about  three  hours,  and  from 
having  so  long  sat  in  the  same  position,  exposed  to  the  cold, 
he  was  thoroughly  chilled  and  benumbed.  He  descended 
with  great  difficulty,  and  when  attempting  by  friction  to  re- 
store circulation  to  his  arms,  he  found  them  more  than  the 
rest  of  his  frame  void  of  sensation.  Fear  of  wild  animals 
for  some  time  deterred  him  from  leaving  the  tree ;  but  he 
was  convinced  that  if  he  remained  in  his  present  lodging,  he 
must  surely  be  chilled  to  death  before  morning,  and  chose 
rather  to  secure  even  a  doubtful  chance  of  safety.  He  could 
not  kindle  a  fire,  but  some  means  must  be  resorted  to  to  se- 
cure himself  from  danger  from  beasts  ;  and  he  therefore 
groped  about  the  ground,  collecting  brush  and  fern.  He 
then  threw  himself  down  on  the  roots  of  a  tree,  and  cov- 
ering his  form  with  these  materials,  as  with  a  blanket,  with 
the  useful  saddle  for  a  pillow,  once  more  composed  himself 
to  rest. 

In  a  little  while  the  sleeper  was  startled  by  the  cry  of 
some  wild  animal,  probably  of  the  wild-cat  species,  which 
continued  to  echo  round  him  in  all  directions,  and  a  certain 


't 

t 

84 


TEW   TKARa  IN    ORECTOK, 


reflection  connected  with  this  did  not  tend  to  soothe  his 
fears.  He  knew  he  must  be  some  where  in  tlie  vicinity  of  a 
spot,  tlie  scene  af  an  anecdote  he  had  often  heard  related  by 
one  of  his  nearest  neighbors. 

This  man  stated  that  he  had  been  attacked,  in  open  day^ 
by  a  dozen  large  wolves,  and  only  escaped  by  clambering 
into  the  roots  of  a  tree  which  Providence  seemed  to  liave 
thrown  in  his  way,  and  with  the  contents  of  his  gun,  killing 
five  of  them.  This  was  as  credible  as  one  lialf  the  hunter 
stories,  told  to  wonder-seeking  "  verdant  ones  ;"  and  one 
thing  is  certain,  that  he  then  believed  it  quite  as  much 
as  he  did  the  next  morning,  with  the  light  of  the  sun  around 
him,  and  when  morning  come,  which  was  Sabbath,  probably 
entertained  fewer  scruples  than  ever  before,  with  regard  to 
Sunday  travelling — this  one  in  particular — and  in  due  time 
placing  the  saddle  upon  his  horse,  which  had  remained  un- 
harmed, again  mounted. 

The  trail,  as  on  the  night  previous,  was  very  obscure,  be- 
ing much  obstnicted  by  fallen  timber,  and  his  progress  was 
slow.  Between  nine  and  ten  o'clock  he  began  to  ascend  a 
higli  hill,  or  rather  mountain,  and  after  an  hour's  struggling 
and  panting  up  the  difficult  steep,  he  began,  from  the  at- 
mosphere, to  suspect  he  was  nearing  the  Pacific  Ocean  in- 
stead of  the  settlement.  This  was  not  a  pleasant  reflection, 
as  the  Indians  upon  that  part  of  the  coast  were  particularly 
hostile  and  treacherous.  For  some  time  the  bewildered  man 
toiled  on,  seeing  no  end  to  difficulties,  till  by  the  appearance 
of  the  sun  in  the  heavens  he  was  convinced  that  he  was  go- 
ing in  decidedly  the  wrong  direction,  and  determined  taking 
the  orb  for  his  guide  to  wheel  about  and  retrace  his  steps  if 
possible,  and  doing  so,  slrango  as  it  may  seem,  six  hours 
later  found  him  upon  the  banks  of  tht  Willamette,  a  short 


p 


TBN  YEARS    IN    OREGON^. 


85 


distance  from  the  spot  whence  lie  sat  out  on  his  ill-staiTcd 
journey.  Here  he  stood  after  twenty-four  hours,  wandering 
in  truly  wo-begor.e  pliglu,  uncertain  what  course  to  pursue, 
as  he  migh;  remain  there  for  weeks  and  not  a  canoe  pass,  or 
meeting  with  any  opportunity  to  reach  home.  The  pony 
was  completely  fatigued,  utterly  unable  to  bear  him  farther, 
and  himself  in  little  better  condition,  even  had  he  known 
what  direction  to  take.  His  cogitations  were  most  painful, 
but  he  had  indulged  them  but  a  brief  space  when  far  down 
the  river  he  heard  the  faint  stroke  of  a  paddle.  It  was  re- 
peated, and  now  the  only  anxiety  was  whether  it  was  going 
from  or  coming  towards  him.  A  few  moments,  and  a  canoe 
rounded  a  point,  and  came  directly  towards  him,  and  to  his 
joy,  he  discovered  its  occupant  to  be  one  of  his  neighbors. 
Mrs.  Bilake,  a  youth  named  Lucia,  and  an  Indian  crew.  As 
they  approached  to  within  a  very  short  distance,  Mrs.  B. 
till  then  scarcely  recognizing  th>3  stranger,  elevated  both 
hands,  and  in  broken  English — for  she  was  a  half-breed — 
exclaimed  "  Call  masica  chareo."  "  Is  it  you,  my  friend  ?- 
where  did  you  come  from?-is  it  you,  toctor?"  He  replied 
to  the  good  woman  that  if  she  would  but  give  him  a  bite 
of  something  to  eat  she  sliould  know  the  whole.  She  raised 
both  hands  as  before,  and  with  a  look  of  consternation,  in- 
formed him  that  they  had  been  absent  from  home  a  week, 
and  expecting  to  reach  home  that  evening,  had  eaten  their 
last  remnant  of  food  about  half  a  mile  below.  Observing 
the  petitioner's  look  of  blank  disappointment,  which  was 
very  pitiable,  she  remarked  that  her  nephew  had  shot  a 
duck  just  before,  and  enquired  if  he  could  eat  it  without  any 
kind  of  seasoning.  The  doctor  Avas  a  little  surprised,  not 
to  say  ihagrined,  at  such  a  question  at  a  moment  that  he 
oiuld  et'gerly  devour  any  thing  that  wa^s  eatable,  and  rc- 


;  5   " 


.4    n 


86 


TBN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


plied  instanter,  without  considering  the  sex  of  his  hstener, 
"  Why,  yes,  feathers  and  all !"  She  laughed  merrily  at  the 
oddity  of  the  expression,  and  said  in  her  own  language,  "  O 
that  is  too  bad,  but  I  guess  we  can  fix  you  something." 
Accordingly,  the  fowl  was  stiipped,  quartered,  and  prepa- 
red for  the  kettle  ;  and  although  the  fire  burned  briskly,  it 
was  then,  if  ever,  that  the  hungry  man  realised  the  truth  of 
the  trite  saying,  "  A  watched  pot  never  boils."  When  it 
was  done,  he  seized  upon  it,  and  never  was  duck  despatched 
in  less  time  by  one  person  ;  and  it  was  a  most  delicious  mor- 
sel, for  it  seemed  but  a  morsel.  While  thus  engaged,  his 
kind  friend  prepared  for  him  a  bed  in  the  canoe,  and  she  af- 
terwards used  to  laugh  as  she  told  that  his  head  had  hardly 
touched  the  blanket  pillow,  ere  he  was  snoring  lustily. 
They  arrived  at  her  residence  about  midnight,  and  had  hardly 
stepped  inside  the  door,  when  she  called  a  slave  boy,  and 
commanded  him  to  catch  up  the  race-horse  immediately. 
Meanwhile  she  set  before  her  visitor,  milk,  pork,  potatoes 
and  bread,  and  he  had  just  finished  a  hasty  repast,  when 
the  horse  galloped  into  the  yard.  Mrs.  Bilake  then  led  him 
to  the  door,  and  with  a  tearful  eye,  and  quivering  lip,  said, 
"Mrs.  White  is  not  far  from  frightened  to  death  about  you. 
I  have  ordered  a  good  horse  irr  you,  do  not  spare  him,  re- 
turn to  your  family  is  fast  as  he  can  carry  you."  With  a 
grateful  heart  he  mounted ;  the  gallant  steed  bounded  off'  in 
the  calm  light  of  a  full  moon ;  and.  about  three  o'clock  he 
arrived  at  the  mission,  and  enjoyed  the  happiness  of  embra- 
cing his  family,  who  had  become  very  much  r.Iarmed  at  hLs 
prolonged  absence. 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OIIEGON. 


87 


hLs 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Ladies'  employments — Hard  Fare — Mr.  Leslie's  arrival,  and  also  Mr. 
Perkins's — Close  quarters— New  house — Hearth — Wolves — Doctor 
White  treed — Mrs.  White's  weapon — Cowardice  of  the  animals- 
The  two  species  of  wolves — Anecdotes — Antelope  hunt  or  "cir> 
cling" — Swarming — Marriage  of  Miss  Johnson  and  Mr.  Perkirs-- 
Winter  rains — Missionary  meeting — Political  convention — Mr  T  'a 
return  to  the  United  States — Ileason.s — Missionay  eflTorts  at  the 
Dalles — Revival  at  the  missic".- -Startling  report-— Death  of  Mrs. 
Lee  and  her  babe — Drowing  of  George — His  former  escape  from 
death  on  the  Seneca  Lake — Mrs.  Whitman's  little  girl  drowned — 
Coincidence. 

DuRTVG  the  summer  the  ladies  divided  their  labors  as 
follows:  Miss  Johnson  taught  the  school,  Mrs.  Shepherd 
attended  to  the  cutting,  making,  and  repairing  of  the  chil- 
dren's clothing.  Mrs.  White  and  Mrs.  Lee  were  made  over- 
seers of  the  cooking,  and  other  domestic  matters ;  though 
the  cooking  was  not  very  laborious  or  extensive,  as  the  fare 
that  season  consisted  of  salt  salmon,  some  pork,  pea  soup, 
and  once  a  week  bread,  and  as  often  butter.  On  the  tenth 
of  September,  Mr.  Leslie  arrived  at  the  mission  with  his 
wife  and  three  interesting  little  daughters.  He  was  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Perkins,  to  whom  Miss  Johnson  was  be- 
trothed. There  was  some  difficulty  in  accommodating  the 
new  comers,  but  they  were  obliged  to  enter  the  house  with 
the  old  inmates,  already  numerous.  This  enlarged  the  fam- 
ily to  sixty  members,  and  made  Mrs.  White  anxious  to  re- 
move to  their  own  house,  which  they  did  in  a  few  days,  al- 


■'      t 


88 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


though  it  was  not  in  a  fit  condition  for  inhabitants.  There 
was  no  chimney  in  it,  and  but  roof  enough  to  cover  a  bed  ; 
a  few  loose  boards  for  a  floor,  and  one  sidf-  was  entirely  un- 
enclosed. As  nearly  all  their  cooking  utensils  were  yet  at 
Fort  Vancouver,  they  were  obliged  to  boil  the  meat  and 
potatoes  in  a  tin  kettle,  in  the  open  air.  However,  the 
chimney  was  soon  built,  and  as  there  Avas  no  suitable  stone 
within  several  miles,  the  hearth  was  made  of  clay  and  ashes, 
which,  after  drying,  became  meiusurably,  though  not  per- 
fectly, hardened.  But  one  of  Mrs.  White's  greatest  domes- 
tic privations  was,  that  she  could  never  wash  her  hearth,  as 
in  this  country  ;  for,  even  by  sweeping,  it  Avould  have  to  be 
removed  every  two  or  three  months.  In  a  few  days  the 
roof  was  completed,  the  house  sided,  and  their  dwelling 
made  very  comfortable. 

After  this,  their  greatest  annoyance  was  the  howling  of 
wolves  about  the  house  during  the  nights.  This  seemed 
particularly  frightful,  as  they  were  in  rather  a  lonely  situa- 
tion, being  at  a  mile's  distance  from  any  habitation,  and  the 
doctor  was  often  absent.  One  nicfht  he  left  home  to  visit 
Mr.  Shepherd,  who  was  ill,  and  some  of  the  sick  mission 
children.  At  the  time,  Mrs.  White  was  expecting  his  re- 
turn about  seven  o'clock,  she  suddenly  heard  a  burst  of  pro- 
longed howls,  in  ar  their  infernal  variety,  from  the  fine  bark 
of  the  young  to  the  hoarse  yell  of  the  elder  wolves.  She 
ran  to  the  door  and  found  that  tliey  came  from  the  direction 
in  which  she  supposed  her  husband  to  be.  In  the  most  ab- 
solute terror,  she  besought  the  two  hired  men  to  fly  to  his 
rescue.  They  laughed  at  her  fears,  and  endeavored  to  rea- 
son her  to  composure.  But  the  horrid  din  continued,  and 
fancying  jhe  also  heard  a  faint  cry,  she  was  unable  to  re- 
strain her  excited  feelings,  and  snatching  up  a  long  pair  of 


i 


TEK   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


89 


cooper's  compasses,  she  sallied  out  into  the  prairie,  accom- 
panied by  the  men,  armed  with  rifles.  They  ran  swiftly,  and 
in  a  few  moments  came  near  a  large  tree,  around  whicii  were 
congregated  a  number  of  the  monsters,  in  full  chorus.  At 
sight,  the  cowards  retreated,  and  were  soon  beyond  hearing, 
seemingly  conscious  »^f  the  approach  of  one  possessing  more 
lawful  claim  to  their  intended  victim  than  themselves — 
sneaking  off,  apparently  ashamed  and  crest  fallen.  The 
doctor  descended  from  his  retreat,  as  much  panic  stricken 
a5  his  rescuers.  This  he  did  not  deny.  He  informed  them 
that  he  had  sat  out  from  the  mission  determined  to  face 
every  danger,  with  the  fortitude  becoming  a  man.  On  first 
starting,  he  picked  up  a  large  stick,  and  as  he  walked  along, 
Quixote-like,  brandished  it  valiently,  with  thoughts  that  it 
would  be  quite  as  well  for  the  Avolves  to  keep  at  respectful 
distance,  if  they  wished  to  preserve  unbroken  heads.  But 
when  one  of  the  dastards  came  within  six  feet  of  him,  and 
by  its  call  gathered  others  to  the  pursuit,  he  dropped  his 
stick,  and  plied  his  heels  with  admirable  dexterity,  till  the 
tree  offered  its  friendly  shelter,  when  he  hallooed  for  help 
with  all  the  force  of  his  lungs.  But  in  spite  of  his  fears, 
he  could  not  help  smiling,  when,  on  descending  from  the 
branches,  he  met  Mrs.  White,  bearing  the  formidable  wea- 
pon, with  which  she  might  have  done  such  good  service,  if 
the  varmints  had  only  been  in  less  haste  to  be  gone. 

The  wolves  of  Oregon  are  divided  into  two  classes  :  The 
prairie  wolf  is  little  larger  than  the  common  fox,  somewhat 
resembling  it,  and  is  inoffensive,  except  in  the  destruction  of 
poultry,  pigs,  and  the  young  of  herds.  It  is  very  common. 
The  others  are  three  or  four  times  larger  than  this,  and  ap- 
parently altogether  a  different  species.  They  are  exceed- 
ingly voracious,  and  when  banded  together,  in  the  night  sen- 


;c 


■s-»_ 


90 


TKK   YJBARS   I^    OREGOK. 


son,  fearfully  formidable,  often  following  herds  of  elk,  wild 
horses,  and  buflFaloes,  as  dogs  do  sheej)  in  this  country,  sel- 
dom desisting  till  they  have  destroyed  great  numbers.  One 
or  two  instances  will  serve  to  illustrate  their  indomitable  per- 
severance : 

One  of  these  creatures  pursued  a  noble  stag,  till  overcome 
by  fright  and  fatigue,  it  sought  refuge  in  the  mission  yard, 
where  the  boys  were  milking.  Another  time,  a  party  of 
seventy  men  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  were  at  ren- 
dezvous, when  a  large,  beautiful  deer  fled  into  the  camp, 
chased  by  a  wolf,  and  actually  hid  its  head  between  the 
knees  of  one  of  the  men,  as  if  trustingly  imploring  protec- 
tion. Its  fear  of  the  savage  foe  banishing  its  shyness  of 
thehuman  race. 

Afier  the  new  arrivals,  the  old  hive,  as  the  mission  house 
might  be  called,  was  too  full  for  the  convenience  of  its  ten- 
ants, and  sent  forth  several  swarms  hi  the  course  of  a  few 
weeks.  Mr.  Beers  occupied  a  new  house;  Mr.  Leslie  an- 
other ;  leaving  Mr.  Whitcomb,  and  the  famiUes  of  Messrs. 
Lee  and  Shepherd,  in  sole  possession  of  the  mansion. 

Mr.  Perkins  and  Miss  Johnson  were  soon  married.  The 
wedding  took  place  at  Mr.  Leslie's,  and  was  a  very  precise 
and  genteel  affiiir.  The  new  couple  took  up  their  residence 
with  Mr.  Leslie.  Thus  they  were  all  finally  settled  snugly 
in  their  new  homes.  The  community  was  now  quite  large, 
and  its  members  would  have  derived  much  enjoyment  from 
each  other's  society,  had  not  the  falling  of  w  inter  rains  al- 
most entirely  cut  off  neighborly  intercourse.  Although  the 
summers  are  so  delightful  and  salubrious,  the  winters  are 
extremely  irksome  and  disagreeable,  not  from  the  falling  of 
deep  snow,  as  in  this  state,  but  the  continuous,  soaking 
rains. 


TE5    YEARS   IN    OKEGON. 


91 


Tliere  were  some  circumstances,  however,  which  served  to 
make  the  time  pass  less  tediously  ;  one  of  which  was  a  mis- 
sionary meeting  on  Christmas,  the  first  of  the  kind  convened 
in  the  country.  Although  it  was  a  wet  day,  and  there  was 
considerable  of  a  freshet,  there  were  many  assembled,  and 
two  hundred  and  forty-three  dollars  subscribed  for  the  cause. 
This  may  seem  singular,  as  tliere  were  so  few  inhabitants ; 
but  their  hearts  were  in  it,  and  though  enjoying  little,  save 
what  was  necessary  for  their  comfort,  each  freely  gave  their 
mite ;  some  who  used  dried  deer  skins  for  window  hghts  in- 
stead of  glass,  coming  forward  and  contributing  from  five 
to  twenty  dollars.  However,  do  not  let  it  be  supposed,  that 
these  persons  were  really  poverty  stricken ;  for  you  must 
remember,  that  they  were  far  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
where  many  of  the  conveniences,  indeed,  nearly  all,  could 
not  be  conveyed.  They  were  not  unable  to  purchase  them, 
for  many  of  them  possessed  herds  and  grains  in  considerable 
abundance. 

During  the  winter,  there  was  a  convention  for  gettmg  up 
a  petition  to  the  United  States  Government  to  extend  juris- 
diction over  the  colony.  It  is  but  just  to  say,  that  the  re- 
sult of  that  movement,  and  all  subsequent  petitions,  has 
been,  as  was  predicted  by  some  on  that  day,  to  draw  upon 
Oregon  hundreds  of  imigrants,  many  from  the  western  fron- 
tier of  the  states,  of  a  restless,  aspiring  disposition,  save  that, 
in  the  spring  of  1847,  mails  were  for  the  first  sent  to  that 
country  at  Government  expense. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  goverment  has  never  taken  any 
formal  action  to  avail  the  colonists  in  the  least,  in  their  diffi- 
cult and  dangerous  position.  Mr.  Lynn's  bill,  proffering  a 
portion  of  land  to  each  mail  settler,  has  oscillated  between 
house  and  senate  the  last  six  years,  keeping  the  settlers  in 


03 


TEN   YEAIIS  IN    OREGON. 


suspense  between  hope  and  fear.     But  I  am  wandering,  and 
must  return  to  the  spring  of  18.18. 

The  rainy  season  closing,  prcpar.ations  were  made  for  Mr. 
Lee's  return  to  tlie  State's,  ostensibly  for  a  reinforcement, 
although  such  a  recruit  came  in  the  year  previous.  Bui 
there  was  territory  enough  to  be  occupied  by  four  times  the 
number  already  there.  However,  there  was  another  object 
in  view  in  sending  him  out.  It  was  the  unanimous  opinion 
that  he  had  been  long  enough  rusticated  in  the  woods,  and 
that  it  would  be  advisable  for  him  to  return  home,  if  but  for 
a  short  time,  in  the  hope  that  commingling  once  more  with 
polished  society,  would  result  advantageously  to  himself 
and  the  mission,  of  which  he  was  superintendent. 

A  short  time  after  his  departure,  Mr.  Daniel  Lee  and  Mr. 
Perkins  commenced  missionary  operations  at  the  Dalles  of 
the  Columbia,  nearly  a  hundred  miles  from  Fort  Vancouvci'. 
There  the  great  reformation  was  effected,  of  which  Mr.  Per- 
kins gave  such  a  glowing,  melting  description  to  the  Amer- 
ican public.  There  was  also  a  revival  of  religion  at  the  mis- 
sion, which  for  a  time  produced  a  happy  change  among  the 
youth  and  American  residents.  Indeed,  Mr.  Lee's  absence 
was  an  eventful  period,  for  it  now  happened  that  Mr.  Thom- 
as J.  Hubbard  a  second  time  started  for  California  for  herds, 
with  about  twenty  of  the  neighboring  men,  and  in  three 
weeks  the  news  returned  by  Mr.  La  Fromboy,  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  that  they  had  been  attacked  by  the 
Chestc  Indians,  and  every  one  killed.  The  emotions  of  the 
families  of  the  party  may  be  imagined,  but  not  described. 
An  awful  gloom  spread  over  the  colony.  They  hoped  it 
might  be  a  false  report,  and  .vaited  long  for  a  relief  to  their 
anxiety,  when  one  day  they  heard  the  firing  of  guns  at  some 
distance  from  the  mission,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 


' 


TEN   VKAU8    IxV    OREGOIV. 


9$ 


Thoy  hastened  in  the  direction  of  the  sound,  and  to  their 
infinite  joy  found  nearly  all  the  party  they  liad  feared  were 
slain.  They  had  been  defeated  by  the  savages,  driven  out 
of  their  way,  and  wandered  about  in  the  mountains,  some  of 
tlicm  suffering  severely  from  their  wounds. 

►Soon  after  this  an  event  transpired  more  generally  mourn- 
ed than  any  other  during  Mr.  Lee's  absence,  and  nearly 
concerning  him.  It  was  Mrs.  Lee's  death,  which  occurred 
after  a  short  illness.  Iler  young  son  died  in  two  or  three 
days  after,  and  they  were  buried  together  in  the  grove 
wiierc  the  mother  was  married  scarce  a  year  previous. 

Neither  were  Dr.  and  Mrs.  White  without  their  personal 
afflictions,  for  there  they  buried  George,  their  adopted  son, 
who  was  drowned  while  attempting  to  cross  the  Willamette 
river  on  horseback.  The  current  was  very  rapid,  and  it  was 
supposed  he  became  giddy,  for  he  turned  the  horse's  head 
down  stream,  and,  becoming  entangled  in  the  saddle,  was 
drowned  and  carried  away,  before  his  companion,  an  Indian, 
could  reach  him.  He  narrowly  escaped  a  similar  fate  the 
day  they  left  Havana  for  New  York,  to  start  for  Oregon. 
He  was  rambling  thoughtlessly  about  the  boat,  when  he  ac- 
cidentally fell  overboard,  and  was  recovered  with  some  dif- 
ficulty. He  was  dear  to  them  as  an  own  child,  and  they 
lamented  their  loss  with  heartfelt  sorrow.  By  his  side,  also, 
they  laid  their  little  Jason,  an  infant  of  eleven  months, 
which  was  likewise  drowned,  when  Mrs.  White  so  miracu- 
lously escaped  Avith  her  own  life,  while  on  an  excursion  down 
the  Columbia  river. 

It  was  the  season  that  Dr.  Whitman's  little  daughter  was 
drowned  in  the  Wallawalla,  a  i  ibutary  of  the  Columbia  ; 
and  what  made  it  a  more  remarkable  coincidence,  was,  that 


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u 


TBN  YEARS   IN  OREGON. 


these  two  children  were  the  first  bom  son  and  daughter  of 
Oregon.  It  was  truly  a  summer  of  singular  events, — ^the 
greatest  revival,  and  the  greatest  number  of  deaths  that 
occurred  during  the  same  length  of  time  of  their  stay  in 
Oregon. 


i 


TKN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


96 


CHAPTER  XII. 

A  call  from  the  Dalles — Mrs.  White,  Mr.  Leslie,  and  Dr.  Bailey  set  out 
for  that  station-Return  to  the  Cascados— Salmon  party— Vint  among 
the  natives — The  ageu  turned  off  to  die — Portage — Visit  to  an  Indi- 
an burial  place — Dead  houses — War  club — Re-embark — Swift  Cur- 
rent—- Conversation — Disaster — Struggles  for  breath — Mr.  Leslie's 
statement — Canoes — Conducted  to  the  shore — The  lifeless  babe — 
Arrival  at  th  j  Fort — Reach  the  falls  of  the  Willamette — Strangers — 
Unhappy  night — Reach  home — Letters. 

I  BELIEVE  that  an  account  of  Mrs.  White's  adventure  on 
the  Columbia  river  has  been  published,  but  perhaps  it  may 
now  be  interesting  to  some  of  my  readers.  When  Mr.  Per- 
kins went  to  the  Dalles,  his  wife  accompanied  him ;  and  soon 
after  Dr.  W.  received  from  him  a  letter,  stating  that  she  was 
dangerously  ill,  earnestly  requesting  himself  and  lady  to 
come  to  them  immediately.  This  threw  them  into  some  con- 
sternation, as  he  was  unavoidably  detained  at  home,  and  it 
was  almost  equally  necessary  that  Mrs.  W.  should  also  re- 
main. 

There  was  a  meeting  of  the  members  of  the  mission,  and, 
considering  the  peculiarly  lonely  situation  of  their  friend, 
among  a  strange  people,  with,  as  he  supposed,  a  dying  wife, 
it  was  decided  that  Mrs.  W.  and  Mr.  Leslie  should  go,  and 
Dr.  Bailey  in  the  doctor's  stead.  This  was  the  first  time 
that  the  doctor  and  Mrs.  White  had  been  separated  for  any 
lengthy  period,  and  as  they  said  farewell,  a  sad  presenti- 
ment of  evil  beemed  burthening  their  hearts.  However,  the 
voyagers  reached  their  destination  in  safety,  and  remaining 


ft 


:'f 


U' 


90 


TEN  TEARS   IN   OREOOK. 


[.%• '  Hi 


.>\.P; 


till  Mrs.  P.  was  recovering,  then  sat  out  on  their  return,  Dr 
Bailey  staying  behind. 

They  reached  the  cascades  without  accident,  and  tUere  en- 
camped. Here  they  found  an  extensive  salmon  ground,  and 
on  tho  banks  of  the  river  were  hundreds  of  the  natives,  dry- 
ing and  pulverising  the  fish  for  winter  use. 

The  next  morning  was  nuny,  and  they  were  detained  be- 
yond their  usual  hour  for  raising  camp,  and  as  Mrs.  White 
had  nothing  to  amuse  herself  about,  she  visited  among  tlie 
village,  talked  as  well  as  she  could  Avith  the  women,  and  in- 
spected their  labors. 

Here  she  saw  the  only  instance  of  deserting  old  people  to 
die,  that  she  had  ever  witnessed,  though  she  had  ofton  heard 
of  the  practice  among  certain  tribes.  On  a  hill  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  village,  she  found  several  aged  persons 
stretched  upon  the  ground  ;  and  by  one  poor  creature  par- 
ticularly, Mr.  Leslie  and  herself  stood  with  painful  emo- 
tions. She  lay  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill,  within  a  foot  of 
the  verge,  probably  so  placed  that  she  might  be  out  of  the 
path,  where  a  slight  motion  would  precipitate  her  over  the 
descent.  A  cold,  drizzling  rain  descended  upon  her,  and 
her  only  covering  was  a  single  small  skin. 

A  short  distance  from  this  place  it  was  custom^^y  to  make 
a  portage  of  about  three  miles ;  and  they  began  it  about 
eleven  o'clock. 

During  the  walk  they  visited  a  very  curious  burial  place. 
This  tribe  disposed  of  thoir  dead  differently  from  any  other 
with  which  the  visitors  were  acquainted,  placing  them  in 
liouses  from  eight  to  twelve  feet  square.  There  were  three 
or  four  of  these  huts,  and  they  saw  through  the  aperatures 
between  the  barks,  the  bodies  rolled  in  mats,  and  swung  one 
above  another. 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREOON. 


97 


n 
e 


On  the  ground,  near  one  of  the  houses,  half  buried  in 
leaves,  Mrs.  W.  found  a  sin^Milar  and  beautifully  carved  war 
club,  which  she  intended  carrying  away ;  but  Mr.  Leslie  in- 
terfered, declaring  it  would  be  highly  imprudent  to  do  so ; 
for,  if  any  of  the  tribe  discovered  its  absence,  they  would 
certainly  suspect  and  pursue  them  ;  so  she  was  obliged  to 
replace  it,  though  with  great  reluctance. 

After  they  had  travelled  about  two  miles  of  the  portage, 
they  saw  a  couple  of  canoes  launch  into  the  river,  and  they 
yielded  to  the  entreaties  of  the  crew,  who  disliked  carrying 
the  baggage  so  far,  confiding  in  their  knowledge  of  the 
rlvev  and  re-embarked.  They  were  glad  to  do  so,  for  they 
had  traversed  woods  and  rough  surface,  and  with  wet  feet 
and  fatigue  were  very  uncomfortable. 

Mrs.  White  in  a  few  moments  observed  that  they  had 
gained  the  middle  of  the  stream,  and  that  the  current  was 
very  rapid,  and  said  to  Mr.  Leslie,  "  in  case  we  upset,  what 
shall  we  do  ?"  He  replied  cheerfully  and  promptly,  "  I  can 
soon  tell  what  /  would  do.  I  would  cling  to  the  canoe." 
"  Well,"  said  she,  "  how  very  helple'^s  is  a  female  with  a 
babe,"  and  the  words  had  scarce  escaped  her  lips,  when, 
from  P  slight  swing  of  the  canoe,  which  was  heavily  laden, 
and  low  in  the  water,  possibly  striking  a  rock,  it  filled  and 
instantly  went  down.  When  the  water  came  up  round  them, 
the  child  started  convulsively  in  its  mother's  arms,  and  gave 
a  piercing  shriek,  and  Mr.  Leslie  exclaimed,  "  Oh  God,  we're 
lost!" 

When  the  canoe  rose  it  was  free  from  its  burthen,  and 
bottom  upwards,  and  Mrs.  White  found  herself  directly  be- 
neath it,  painfully  endeavoring  to  extricate  hereelf,  and  en- 
during dreadful  agony  in  her  struggle  for  breath.  Despair- 
ingly, she  felt  herself  again  sinking,  and  coming  in  contact 
1 


.1 

i 


■■'  r" 


^s 


T^tt  X¥^^  U^   QAEQOK. 


'.y-  • 


wHh,.i;be  lh»bs  of  apersion in  th,e  watQr,  th^jrQflec^ipn, fitted 

,acr(>ss  ,ber;lHrw», /'..I  Jiave  done  wit^  p)y  labors? for  these 
pour  ItdiAHs.  Wejl,;  all  will  be  o^^er  ,in  a,  mtimmU  but  how 
will'-my  ppor. mother  feeli  vfhenahe  learns  my  jrwful  faite  ?" 

i;,,  Mr.  I^lieaftejfwardsr stated  thatj^e,  h*d  i^o  reQoUectipn 
lillb^iPOse, and  Btrove  to  Jjeep abave  wftter ;  ^t.ag^n sank, 
utterly  hopeless  of  swwpr.  He  Jcpse,^gain  just(as4;he  (?anoc, 
.paa%^  lounid  a  jb^ge  yocjf,,  its  pyowwaathirQT 'a,  within  his 

.  react.  Hp^  clutched  it  with  eagei;  joy, ,  awl.  supported  him- 
self a,  i^EiQ^})^, ,  gasping  for  b^eaUi,  .  wh^n  he :  suddenly 

,^hoi^ht  9f  his,  fellow^  pa$senger,r.^d.,l^he,.ex(4^m^ion  ran 
throygh,  hi^i.minfl,  "  what  wiU;  thef49ctor,;say  ?"  He  in- 
^nt^y  lowered  himself  in  (tbi?  water  as.iar  aspp8sible>.and 
still  clinging,  with  one  :baiul,igrpp/ed  about.^S'W^ll  as  hQ  was 

^able,  wheq;,  *as,  proyideuca,>f^9j^  j^^,  hegrasped:  her 

dre^s,  and  su^eededdn  raising , her  to  ith^fa^fu^face^   By  this 

..tkfie  the  Jojdian^SrPf pert  swimnii^,,hait)ireacbedft^e  canoe ; 

.  .and  with,  their  assistance  he  suppori^4<  hi^iinsen^blet  bui^hen, 
'  ajii(fl| jplaoi^d  her,  h«ad  ,npon  ihe .  bot?b«Pa»/^ith  her  fjkce  just 

.:  o]a1^<)f,tb.er,iwater.  After  a  few^nvwoients  she; gaspe4  feebly, 
,4^4, opening. her, §yes,  her,firstJW,ord§-were^  "Oh,  Mr^JI|^fls- 
ije^  Tye Jk>st  jny  child!"     f',Pray>,;  d<?  dismiss  tjl>e  thought^" 

f,«aid.JN5»  .^apdJet  vis.;1i?y:to,s^veQursplv^s."  if;  ,.?  vfoi  Uiv 
itix^^te' W^  V^M  a  longiwayf4i(rwatheTivervPQ(p»9spect 

..<)^eijffiig  fpf.l^w  neiU^f .    At  length,  they  espied,  fiaT-rah^ftd, 

...Jkh^tw.Qt^ajwes  w^^cjb,  had,  ejwterfd.thq. river  bcfore.;^pj,  oc- 
cupied, as  it  proved,  by  an  Indian  chief  and  liis  attendi^iiats. 

K^r.,Jyi^S%^allop^d;to  them  yyith  ^U  hisremai^g  strwgth, 
.ipndi  ^yjJwi^nfidi  ,t9,w*rd^  .tjjem,  ^r^t  ^tQjyping.  M^rij^if^  »V 
,^hfi  4i^nk^ ,  wdr  %  fewTy  Qtber  ,ttwg^»'  w-hichi  f^^  #a^4<  iiow" 


it  S      i 


*-!^ 


I 


TEN  YEARS  IX   <5RE<30N, 


9 


Tnuc"h  exhausted,  the  chief  cautioned  them  to  retain  their 
hold,  without  in  the  least  clianging  tlieir  position,  while  he 

.1    II  it '((I  W«- 

towed  them  gently  and  carefully  to  the  ^ore.  Hertj  they 
rested,  draining  the  water  from  their  clgtiies,  and  Mr.  Leslie 

;•'.     ■;•    ■. ,  '■'••  ■■}■■    I       ■-:  'r.j.'ivi     i  K.    V'     /(,..     i    ,    Imik"! 

fronpi  his  head  and  stopiach,  for  he  had  swallowed  a  vast 
fluantity.  In  half  an  hour  the  Indif^ns  nghted,  tnfi  canoe, 
which  had  been  drawn .  on  shore,  and  to  their  amazement, 

I    ■  '..•         •-    ,  '111  i>'.-.::\    K,.     Jji'i-  !iii     ii  •  I '  ..))      :'n\iji\in 

And  almost  terror,  they  founds  beneath  it  the  dead   babe, 

ii'i'i      •■••iir!  -.^i'li;    ,  1.    .•,''^.;;.     T   ■     ^oiji'     -l)    .>;.-•  cU'T'.J.  ,ai; 

wrapped  in  its  cloak,  having  been  kept  in  its  place  by  the 
4itmospheric  pressure.  ,      .,      *  .  ,     , 

Mr.  Leslie  was  now  uncertain  what  course  to  pursu/e,  and 
asked  his  companion's  advice.  She  told  nim  she  was  desi- 
rpu8  of  proceeding  immediately  to  Fort  Vancouver,  as  .they 

,  had  nothing  to  eat,  no  fire,  and,  in  short,  had  lost  so  many 
of  their  effects,  that  they  had  nothing  wherewith  to  make 
themselves  comfortable,  if  they  renaained  there  till  even  the 

,  next  day,    ,        f        *         f  '  ;       . .  ,     .         , 

.  Their  canoe  was  a  large, one,, being  about,  twenty, feet  in 

/length,  and  four  in  breadth, -and  was  laden  with  a  Dcd,,bed- 

\yK'if?A    I'A"'   .r.:»i'iti  ■)    lij  .ii'iii'iiTi!    i'u)     ahu\' <  41  A\,'.:-   ,-.n.:1Ljn 

ding,  mats,  two  large  tn^nks  of  clothing,  kettles  and  dishes, 

.'.'i.'tiiir- !j.'.    -ifj    i'    iuifr-'..    I'll        .u 'if;   w,'»fr  /n  v  ;i.>ijin,;'<  Ufa 

,  and  provisions  to  last  .the  crew  throughout  the  iourney.  and 
also  articles  of  traffic  with  the  natives,  and  th^y  lo^t  all  but 

./Jill.'-      il/'i!       Ii'i      Hi!      ilj;i!.        liH    .i;-i/      i:-     »•>    ■*••/',       I'T    ■.'><    ■ICii      'Mi 

the  trunfcjL  the  contents  of  which  .were  now  ; thoroughly 
..soakedT 
.  They  seated  themselves  in  the  canoe,  and  the  chief  threw 
his  only  blanket  over  Mrs.  W's  shoulders,  both  himself  and 
men  exerting  themselves  to  render  their  charges  comfortable, 
during  the  thirty-six  miles  they  were.oDliged  to  travelbefore 

, Villi!    '.ffj     iT-iu<'\iri    ,.i'!.u  .-■'■;.,■.    ;   li     .  --%»:,M,-'.r;  -n.,.*'!   .;:j:)ll'Xi 

^reaching  the  fort,  wliich  was  late  in  thC:  evening. 

T^ey  were  mqt  by  Mr.  Douglas,  who  wa§  gre^itly  sho' 
narrative,  and  whose 


it  words  were,  "  my 

•i..-.r.l!l'         I'd)'         '        ilil'Tl 


'    '(i.it   :!i:  — -iMi'.ni    ■    a;  ,'.i'.  '   .  i-  ■i..-i'-.i!i      I'liJ'     i  ^ini'tl^  i*! 

what  a  miracle  I    Why,  it  is  only  a  short  tiihe  since,  in  the 


4»    ■  I*  ■.  I 


f 


100 


TEN   YKAR8   IN    OREGON. 


J*tJ 


;j»' 


»»a; 


U 


II 


same  place,  we  lost  a  canoe,  with  seven  men,  all  good 
swimmers." 

Governor  McLaughlin  had  that  year  gone  on  a  visit  to 
England,  leaving  Mr.  Douglas  cliief  factor.  But  here  let 
me  say,  that,  we  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  this  gentleman 
and  his  lady,  together  with  the  other  residents,  for  their 
kindness  to  their  unfortunate  friends.  They  prepared  a  cof- 
fin, and  dressed  the  babe  for  interment,  and  afforded  them 
every  facility  for  reaching  home,  whither  they  were  anxious 
to  hasten  immediately. 

The  following  morning  the  bereaved  mother  was  quite 
composed.  They  started  at  eight  o'clock,  and  with  the  little 
cofiin  at  their  feet,  travelled  rapidly  all  day,  and  camped  at 
night,  just  above  the  falls  of  the  Willamette.  They  took 
supper,  the  men  pitched  their  borrowed  tents,  and  after  a 
day  of  great  fatigue,  they  lay  quietly  down  to  rest. 

In  a  short  time,  however,  they  were  disturbed  by  a  loud 
paddling,  and  voices  ;  and  looking  out,  beheld  about  thirty 
Indians,  men,  women  and  children,  in  canoes,  who  landed 
and  camped  very  near  them.  The  arrival  of  the  strangers 
inspired  Mrs.  W.  with  fear ;  more,  however,  lest  she  should 
be  robbed  of  her  dead  treasure,  than  for  her  own  safety. 
She  could  hear  all  the  noises  of  the  camp,  talking  of  the 
men,  gossip  of  the  women,  and,  more  harrowing  than  all, 
the  prattle  and  crying  of  the  children,  which  reminded  her 
of  her  own  dear  lost  one ;  and  it  was  one  of  the  nights  of 
the  greatest  suffering  she  ever  experienced.  It  was  one  of 
perfect  restlessness ;  for  she  sat  silently,  through  the  long, 
weary  hours,  with  bursting  heart,  watching  the  corpse 
of  her  babe  at  the  door  of  her  tent.  How  truly  solitary- ; 
far  from  mother,  husband,  home,  and  friends — surrounded 
by  a  company  of  strange  savages,  weighed  down  with  grief. 


Y  •■'■ 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREOON. 


101 


tearless  from  its  very  weight,  not  knowing  what  next  would 
befall  her.  Oh,  such  agony  as  she  endured  through  that 
night's  dreary  vigils !  She  felt  as  though  she  had  been 
obliged  to  drain  the  cup  of  bitter  sorrow  to  its  dregs,  with- 
out a  chance  to  pray  that  it  might  pass  from  her. 

They  sat  oflF  as  soon  as  it  was  light,  that  they  might,  if 
possible,  reach  the  mission  before  putrescency  had  discolored 
the  body  of  the  infant.  They  arrived  at  McKoy's  about  one 
o'clock,  where,  while  they  were  dining,  horses  were  prepa- 
red, and  they  went  on  without  delay.  It  is  impossible  to 
describe  the  emotions  of  the  doctor,  when  he  met  them, 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  mission,  as,  excepting  a  floating 
rumor  among  the  natives,  which  he  hardly  credited,  he  had 
had  no  intimation  of  the  accident.  The  sad  presentiment 
was  realized  !  Death  had  entered  their  circle  and  robbed 
them  of  their  fair  child  ;  and  as  he  looked  into  the  face  of 
his  wife,  he  comprehended  in  part  her  suffering.  Mrs. 
White  brought  with  her  the  following  letter  from  Mr.  Bea- 
ver, the  chaplain  at  the  fort,  to  her  husband : 

Fort  Vancouver,  9  P.  M.,  Thursday. 
My  Dear  Dr.  White  : 

"  The  Lord  gave,  and  the  Lord  hath  taken  away" — yea, 
and  the  Lord  hath  preserved — "  blessed  be  the  name  of  the 
Lord."  I  am  just  come  from  seeing  your  dear  wife ;  bless 
me  !  in  how  very  diflferent  a  condition  from  that  she  was  in 
at  our  house,  only  one  short  week  ago !  And  yet,  she  is 
wonderfully  composed,  under  the  circumstances  of  her  and 
your  bereavement.  I  sincerely  hope,  that  her  health  will  not 
suffer ;  but  that  we  cannot  tell,  till  the  fever  of  agitation  has 
subsided.  She  insists  on  going  up  to-morrow,  and  perhaps 
she  is  right ;  you  will  mutually  console  each  other.  I  can- 
not speak  as  a  father,  but  I  think  if  I  had  suffered  a  similar 


1  c  r,  n  f:  ^ 

JL  <.;  J  O  i^  ± 


I; 


■I 


■'  \n 


'?  ■  ',  I 


•V  ){•!;•.' 


l(/j'  TEN   TEARS  TN    OTtEaOV, 

\oisi  t'shbutd  h'^ve  beeii  too  gratcful'to  Providence  for  One' 

A   -,{.)       ■■',■1!       '•'''■  •J'"''       •'■'/       •  '.      •^»-''        .      •     •        "''   '  '"J       '■''■1'^' 

of  his  most  miraculous  interpositions,  to  murmur  one  mo- 
ment at  the  dispensation,  with  whlcn  he  tnoiight  proper  t6^ 
afflict  me.  The  Almighty  has  shown  yeu  how  much  more 
severely  he  cbwMh'ave  laid  on  his  hanci.  Aiid  you  have 'an- 
otKier  ieifi,  and  one— agaui  t  speak' not  as  a  father — ^ih  whom 
you  feoth  must  feel  riiore  interest!.  And  yet  tlie  "suctmg 
child !  I  know  not  wliat  to  say,  or  how  to  offer  any  con- 
solali'ol^,  Init  t^'at  it  B  aii ' angel' in  lieaveii!     Thai  thought 

ji?    -i!.'!    -iM   iiil   .  i    ;'         -;j:'>i.    111..':./.'     ■■■•  .    tji'.v/      /%.,il,l)'i!     J>  . 

alone  must  prevent  us  from  sorrowing  as  those  who  have  no 
hope.  My  wife  was  with  me,  out  we  stayed  only  a  few 
minuses,  riot  being' a)ble  to  render  any  real  service.  We  hiaa 
been  waiting  anxiously  for  Mr!  Lesliel  mtending^  to  ac66in-' 
panytim  to  the  Willamette,  or  to  follow  him  m  twd6r  tfer^ee 
days. 

tendea  visit  lor  a  w^eeK  or  two;  not  tnat  we  nave  any 
clini.        to  be 


// 


L  We  shall' not  liaw  do  so,'  biii  snail  put  off"  our  in-" 
lea  visit  for  a  w^eek  or  two;  not  that  we  have  any  dism- 
36  in  the  house  of  mourning,  biii  because,  just 
at'nrst,  avc  might  be  in  tlie  way  t'here.  Pray  seiicf  us  a  tine 
by  the  first  opporiiimty,  to  let  us  know  how' Mrs.  White  is^ 
and'bblieve  m^-  lil/dear  T>t.  White, 

Yours,  very  faithfully; '^^    .'fs;  ,a     ».^ 


Friday  mornini 


IK. 

P.  9.  "  We  rejoice  to  fearii  tlaat  Mrs.  Whiie  has  passed'  a 
good  riigUl,  aria  ttat  her  bodily  healtli  does  not' appear  to 
be  rriaterialiy  aiffecteci^;  For  the  mind  there  is  "Balm  in 
GUead,**  fter's  will'  fee  much  trariquilized  before  you  meet.' 
lliat  meeting  will  be  ov6r  before  you  read,  tliis.  Acquit 
yburselif  Ime  a  man  for  her  sake,  and  6'o(l  be  with  you,  and 
make  tbe  light  ot  !bis  couiitenahce  to  shine  upon  you.  So 
pray  your  fnends,  •  -         ^ 


;:   -f 


TK»  TBA-RS  IN    OntTOOK.' 


163 


They  received  many  letters  of  cohdolende  from  their  friend's, 
among  which  was  the  fbllowing,  brwight  to  them  by  Mi- 
Hall,  -wtio  was  travelling  mih  hw  invaiHd  wiffet 

ItoRoluTu,  Sandwich  Islands,  Fel).  S3, 1836. 
Mt  DsAft  Sibter:  '  ' 

I  cannot  allow  the  prdsont  opportunity  to  pass,  without 
writing,  y oui  &  few  Hnes  at  Ibast. ,  When  you  left  us  for  your 
field  ci  hubor,  I  thought  iimore-thaoi  probable,  that  I  should 
see  you  in -your  wild-  home  ere  this:  But' you  w'ill  be  glttd 
tb«t  the  cdUse9  wbicli  isecmcd  to  renderr  such  a  cireum^ance 
possible,  are,  for  the  present,  at  least,  vetrioved.  I  now  rank 
among  the  well  ones  of  our  mission^  through  the  blessing  of 
our  gracious  and  merciful  Father  in' He<kven.  Wh6n  our 
last  general  letter  was 'ft)rwat<ted  to  6ur  patrons,  my  name 
was  0rhi5^d'fr<im  th^likt  of  invalids,  where  it  had  stood  for 
more  than  four  years.  Bless  the  Lord,  oh,  my  soul,  and 
forget  not  all  his  benefits,  I  feel  happy  in  commending  to 
your  kindness  and  sisterly  attention,  our  dear,  delicate  sister 
Hall.  I  rejoice,  that  they  are  going  on  her  account,  aod 
earnestly  hope  that  it  will  result  in  permanent  benefit  to  her 
health.  She  has  had  a  severe  trial  in  leaving  her  little  girl 
behind,  and  it  will  need,  on  this  account,  a  larger  share  of 
your  sympathy  and  kind  attentions.  But  I  need  not  enlarge 
on  this  point;  you  have  not  forgotten  the  heart  of  a  stran- 
ger. You  have  been  afflicted  in  your  family,  and  in  your 
mission.  Oh,  how  your  maternal  bosom  must  have  been 
rent  with  anguish  in  losing  your  little  babe,  under  such  aflFect- 
ing  circumstances.  And  yet  your  husband  will  feel,  that 
his  loss  is  small,  compared  with  that  of  Mr.  Lee.  We  were 
much  shocked  at  the  account  of  her  death.  She  seemed  to 
me  capable  of  enduring  hardship  as  a  good  soldier ;  such 
appeared  to  be  the  strength  of  her  constitution.     And  yet 


%■ 


/J 


.  f'. 


■  .  '    .1'  - 


'f  ■  .11 


4} 


m 


104 


TEX   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


)-'U 


i^-: 


'•:i: 


she  lia«  been  the  first  of  your  number  to  fall.  The  Lord 
docs  all  things  well.  This  is  our  consolation,  even  when  he 
•'  moves  in  a  mysterious  way  his  wonders  to  perform." 
There  has  not  been  a  death  in  our  great  mission  for  more 
than  two  years.  But  there  are  the  more  to  go.  I  feel  an 
inexpressible  solemnity  in  looking  forward  to  our  next  an- 
nual meeting.  It  seems  so  possible  that  our  ranks  may  be 
invaded  by  the  grim  messenger.  May  we  all  have  our  lamps 
trimmed  and  burning.  What  a  privilege  to  be  permitted  to 
labor  in  the  vineyard  of  the  Lord.  Let  us  be  diligent  and 
keep  our  eyes  bent  upward,  and  not  become  onsnared  with 
the  temptations  of  the  world.  The  Lord  guide  and  bless 
you  with  his  continued  favor. 

Your  affectionate  sister, 

ABBA  W.  SMITH. 


"5>       ' 


t  n 


TEN    TEARS    IN    ORKOON. 


105 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


lUnen  of  Mr.  Shepherd — Surgical  operation — Singular  impressions  oi 
Mrs.  White — His  death — Benevolent  society — Visit  to  Xavier's — 
A  Mother's  anguish — Burying  alive — The  drowned  boy — Outline  of 
Dr.  Bailey's  history — John  Turner — A  hermitage — Turner's  bra- 
very— His  seclusion. 

Soon  after  this  unhappy  disaster,  occurred  the  death  of  Mr, 
Shepherd,  who  has  before  been  mentioned,  as  on-^  of  the  most 
useful  and  devoted  members  of  the  mission.  He  went  to 
Oregoii,  from  Lynn,  Massachusetts,  in  dehcate  health,  being 
predisposed  to  the  scrofula,  having  previously  lost  a  sister 
by  the  complaint.  This,  after  two  years'  severe  exposure  in 
that  new  country,  exhibited  itself  in  a  scrofulous  knee  joint. 
After  a  protracted  and  painful  illness,  endured  with  impar- 
alelled  patience,  from  the  acuteness  of  his  suffering,  caused 
by  the  high  state  of  inflammation  in  the  affected  joint,  he 
besought  Dr.  White  to  remove  the  limb.  This  was  done 
with  all  possible  despatch,  and  notwithstanding  it  was  "  hope 
against  hope,"  most  of  his  friends  looked  forward  to  his  re- 
covery. For  fifteen  or  sixteen  days,  the  operation  afforded 
the  anticipated  relief,  and  all  watched  the  symptoms  in  the 
beloved  patient  with  a  solicitude  only  second  to  that  with 
which  he  had  watched  over  the  interests  of  the  mission. 
But,  alas!  it  was  in  vain;  for  although  he  was  better  in 
many  respects,  it  was  discovered  that  a  large  abscess  was 
forming,  the  discharge  of  which  convinced  them  that  he 
could  not  long  survive.     In  a  week  from  that  time  he  expi- 


:'«f    »    . 


■  r  ■  ■Br.'*! 


fr.l 


1 

^ 

ksL 

m' 


TE>^'Vfei^RS''iN^6kE6oir.' 


^4' 


w>:' 


it'' 

m.  ■-■■ 


%•;; 


i.  !■' 


red,  and  his    vas  a  glorious  death.     "It  seemed,"  as  one 
said  who  was  present,  "  as  though  the  house  was  full  of 
waiting  angels,  and  that  an  almost  perceptible  halo  was  shed 
around  the  death-bed.     He  continually  exhorted  the  bystan- 
ders to  patience  and  pe^^civei^^^  a^d  desired  them  not  to 
forget  to  publish  in  the  United  States  what  delight  he  felt 
in  this  hofur ;  thai'  k&  had  embarked  in  ih»  patis&  elf  Cbriirt 
and  missions.     S'bm:«f"  of  iha  titwft  it  ims-'Sftppos^d  he  \i^s 
\^HdeHhg ;  foi^'Hfe^Wils  tklEri^'  (;aiitihuaflty'"ig=  thdugti  iii  tile 
presence  of  the  Almighty,  conversing  fariiiliarly  as  with  an 
old  friend.     Once,  while  watching  with  him,  he  desired  Mrs. 
White '  tt>  g^t  pietal  and  paper,'  asrid  Vfit€>  whUe'  he  dictated  a 
l^ter  to  (jk>d.     Shd'diid's&/>and'w<rote  f^ona  hii^  Up»  a  long' 
pkcft'of'  ve/i^  chfcstef  and  l^eimtiful  poetry,  as' Aougfe  eiha^ 
nadng  fr6na  a  b^<  filled'  witli^  the>moBi|)ut«  i^agialngis^;and 
ovdrflowiAg   with*  lover  aasd^  ?fev6i>«ttc»  fof  a  hbly  behig.. 
Wliea*  she  had  fiwishedv  "  now,"  said' H*,  "  f^ld'and  seitti  it^ 
up,"     Th©^'  aoeri0  icwiginated  >  m  H^r  mind  teiy  smgiilair  eittoi- 
tiong  J  sh6  felfc  aln^voet  impr^s^^th^t  by  tlie"  d^arting  spin* 
she  might  send' to  ti^a^^n-som^  mess%e  to'her  seyaph  bkb^ 
and  dear  Mii9.  £6e,  and  even' sewfal  times  found  hei^elf  on 
tk»  pomt  of  dioSng  sb>  ind  ebligied  to  et&tiM^iom^  restnMBts^ 
t»:»vbid  iti    Wh^H' 1i)6  moiment  of  d'i^s«;^tioii  appro^ohieidv 
the  dying  man  extendisdbdth  hi^  eihaieiaited  hand$>^xe)auft* 
ifcgi^*<A14y  ddl  isr  pedcc  !  peace!     Oh,  wha€  glory  !  glory  ! 
g^ry!    We  have  y^ttorf  throiigh  the  lamb!"    A  person 
(aktering  the  room  remarked,:  *' why,  sufdy,  be  k  dying  T- 
"Yesy"  said  Be,  "  I  am  dyiiig,  bwt  dying  to  livd  again'!     I 
shall  sooii  be  over  Jordan  f*    And  so  Cyrus  Shepherd  died^ 
UBiversally  lamented  id  Oregon,  tTiough  his  friepds  weite 
eohsciaus  be  bad  entered  into-  i,  "  gloriomsi  resU" 
AHoW  me  hen^  to-  inftrodnce  aA  ex<«w  >  from  the  hioet 


TEt:    YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


truinfulwora  oT  Messrs.  Ijee  &  JFroat,  deiailliig' an*  accouril 
of  tliis  estima'bie  raari s  sickness  and' death':'     ' 


.!);-i:.'!i7-     -^Ifl 


Bui  the  time  has  come' wlien'we  must  part  with  a  beloved 
brother  aWd  (^stingvushiei' iellow-laWer^  1^^   Cfyrus  Shepl>^ 


^ 


tuai,  t8o,  under  a  load 'of  bpffly  infirmiiies  which  knew  no' 
permanent  reuef,  but  mcreased  more  and  more  till  they  ended 
m  death,  tmr  brother  loved  society,  but  he  was  happier  m 
domg  good.  In  labors  he  was  abimdant,  endeavoring  to 
do  good  m  every  way  ui  his  power  to  all  around  him, 
whe^'er  whites  or  Indians!  dytieii  dwL  iie  t^it  the  Iddiaii' 
lodge  witn  food,  for  the  hungry  and  medicme  for  the  sick 


wim  the  b'iesfsed'  liope^oi  Iiis  own  salvation,  mflcle  liim  con- 
slaniiy  *'  trample'  on  pl'^k'^re  ancf  pain.**  By  many  of*  ffie' 
early  mhabitants  he  will  lonff  be  held  m  erateful  remem- 


long 


^' 


brance;  but  those  only  who  laiew  him  from  the  first  can 
place  a  just  estimate  tlipon  his  chai%,cter.  His  disease  was 
tKe  scrofula,  ari^ih'^e  spnng  ot'  IS^B'it'auafeltetf  liis'Knee.' 


!•;* 


Mi" 


f^^v' 


■IP' 


tiiat  he  wdulcl'  recover.  But  on  the  coitimenc6men'^  of  t^'e 
rainy  seasca,  iri  the  fail  ot  18^9,  ihe' disease  forced  hiin'  W 
talce  his  bed,  wheire,  alf^er  sufferirrg  greatl/  ifor  atoui  ^y^edW 
days,  it  became  necessary,  as  the  only  hope  of  savmg  ms 
I'Ke,  to'  respr't'tot'he  painful  process  of*  ampufation.    xMk 


}  painiui  p 

was  done  t)ecemt>er  li,  t)y'l)r.  "While,  assisted  Iby  Dr.  Baf- 
ley  aii3lSr.  Wilson,     fie  eiiduired  all  witli  r6mdrka6le  pa- 


1     :'' 


108 


TEK   TEARS   IN    OREOOK. 


m 
m 


'wl  ■'•;■ 


tience  and  resignation.     "  Through  all  his  suflerings,"  said 
his  sympathizing  and  excellent  wife,  in  a  letter  of  the  *22d 
of  December,  "  I  have  not  heard  a  murmur  to  escape  his 
lips ;  but  in  his  most  trying  hours,  he  could  rejoice  and 
sing  praises  to  God."     An  opportunity  to  forward  the  let- 
ter of  which  this  is  an  extract  not  occurring  till  the  27th, 
he  wrote  me  a  few  lines  in  the  margin,  the  last  his  hand  ever 
penned,  which  breathe  the  same  spirit  with  that  quoted 
above.     Including  all  at  the  Balls  station,  he  says,  Decem- 
ber 2'7th  :  "Dear  brethren  and  sisters — ^FeeUng  a  desire  to 
say  a  few  words  to  you  this  morning,  Susan  has  kindly  un- 
sealed her  letter  to  favor  my  purpose.     I  am  very  feeble  in 
body,  and  obliged  to  lie  on  my  back  from  morning  till  night ; 
excepting  of  late  I  have  been  permitted  to  turn  on  my  side, 
or  to  lie  raised  on  my  bed  for  a  short  season,  to  relieve  the 
pain  caused  by  lying  in  one  position  so  long.     But  the  doc- 
tor seems  to  think  that  even  this,  on  the  whole,  is  injurious, 
and  discourages  it.     I  have  lain  from  midnight   till  ten 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  in  the  same  position,  and  bear  it  very  well. 
Dr.  White  has  been  very  attentive  indeed  in  my  sickness, 
and  has  done  all  fully  to  satisfaction.     All  the  brethren  ai  J 
sisters  seem  to  take  delight  in  exerting  themselves  to  mani- 
fest their  sympathy  and  kindness  in  every  manner  possible. 
I  think  no  person  under  heaven  ever  was  more  kindly  and 
faithfully  attended  than  I  have  been  during  my  sickness. 
Expressions  of  deep  sympathy  are  pouring  in  from  every 
quarter.     French,  Enghsh,  Americans,  nor  must  I  exclude 
the  poor  Indians,  have  given  unequivocal   expressions  of 
their  sympathising  love.     I  cannot  say  I  think  I  shall  get 
up  from  this  bed  whereon  I  am  laid.     God  has  dealt  with 
me  in  a  manner  which  it  is  impossible  to  describe  to  you. 
Such  support,  such  removal  of  every  care,  the  mind  con- 


TEN    YEARS    IN'   OREGON. 


109 


sjtantly  far  from  every  anxious  thought,  I  could  never 
have  conceived  to  be  possible.  Under  the  most  excru- 
ciating pain,  when  at  every  breath  it  seemed  impossible 
to  refrain  from  screeching  as  loud  as  my  breath  would  bear, 
these  cries  were  mingled  with  shouts  of  praise !  I  would 
say  to  you,  such  has  been  the  abundance  of  peace  given,  that 
not  a  rising  of  impatience  or  fretfulness,  or  a  murmur  or  a 
complaint,  has  ever  been  felt  by  me  during  my  sickness. 
Farewell !  The  God  of  peace,  grace,  and  consolation  be 
with  you  continually."  Signed,  "  A  part  of  Cyrus."  The 
stump  of  the  amputated  limb  healed  gradually,  and  strong 
hopes  were  entertained  that  he  would  recover ;  but  they 
proved  delusive,  for  an  abscess  formed  in  his  hip  which  baf- 
fled medicine,  and  so  rapidly  wasted  the  powers  of  Ufe,  that 
on  the  ushering  in  of  the  new  year,  1840,  his  happy  spirit, 
"  disburthened  of  its  load,"  mounted  upward  to  the  abode 
of  bliss. 

But  among  the  many  mournful  scenes,  the  missionaries 
had  seasons  of  rest,  and  even  pleasing  amusements.  Among 
others,  it  was  proposed  to  organize  a  society  for  clothing  the 
Indian  women.  Accordingly,  the  ladies  met,  and  with  char- 
acteristic generosity,  subscribed  to  the  amount  of  fifty  dol- 
lars, which  was  expended  at  Fort  Vancouver  for  baize  and 
other  articles  for  winter  apparel.  A  request  was  circulated 
for  the  needy  females  to  assemble  at  tlie  house  of  Mr.  Beers. 
There  were  many  present,  and  seated  on  their  mats  on  the 
floor,  plied  their  needles  under  the  dhrection  of  their  instruc- 
tresses. In  this  way  they  were  employed  for  about  the 
same  number  of  hours  that  are  similar  societies  in  this  coim- 
try.  At  supper  time,  the  ladies  partook  of  a  meal  prepared 
according  to  rule :  that  is,  one  kind  of  cake,  bread,  butter, 
and  tea.     A  fire  was  kindled,  and  a  quantity  of  potatoes 


h7     '-  .    if' 
-:i     ■.  IT-- 


ii>M^: 


'MX 


TEN  TEARS   IN   OREGON. 


roasted,  of  \^hicli  the  natives  ate  with  much  zest,  for  a 
greater  treat  gomXA  not  have  been  onered  them.  After  a 
number  gl  pleasant. meetings,  during  which  {he  progression 
of  the;  women  in  needle  work  was  very  gratifying  to  their 
jl^eneifaptresses,  a  sufficient  coBaplimeht  of  garments  was  com- 
pleted and  ^isfributed.  to  mate  ti^e  wiearers  comfortaTble 
through  the  Winter.  One  day'  the  doctor  and  his  family 
were  visiting  at  X^vier^s,  a  neighbor  at  Some  dfetiance  from 
t)ie  mispion,  ai^d  the  conversation  turned  upon  the  custom  of 
l)i\ryiijg  ali\:e  ;  and  theit  host  relate^  tlie  following  circiim- 


stance 


"'  One^day  himself  and  family  vrere  disturbed  while  at  din- 
,ner  by  8'  'tra,mpiing  and  loijd  wau,  and  on  going  Iq  tjie  door, 
saw  borne  by  the  corpse  of  a  young  wonaan,  followed  by  a 


man  rushed  into  the  house,  begging  Xavier  to' go  witfe  him, 
saying,  that  they  were 

but  a  short  


^  _       re  burying  a  woman  alive.     He  instantly 

hastened  to  the  spot,  but  a  short'  distance,  ftncl'  ■^ouiid'  the 


xLeed  aptually  done.    The  explanation  given  him  was,  th 
on,  arriving  at  thie  grave,  and  a^pbsiting  the  bbay,  the  mptne 


at 
'.arriving  at  tne  grave,  ana  aepositing  tne  Doay,  tne  motner 
threw,  herself  upon  it,  clasping  ner  arms  about  the  necK,  and 


resolutely  (Expressed  her  determimatioii  to  T^e  oiittiect  witli'it. 
Th^y  refused  to  obey  her  wish,  and  represented  to  her  now 


I  bey  r^iusea  to  obey  ner  wish,  and  represented 

me,    said 


le  miss|,oi^anes  w;^uld  view  thd  act.  ' ' 
e,  "bury  ^le!    Whjr  shoulcl  1  live f    Is  not^'my  Kiisband 
ad?     jL-e  r.ot  my'^'chMren  all  gone t'    ft  is  iiM  wfetf,'  let 
'-^*  f''iVh^^^6uli'rilv^"tk"fee^^k^^ 

die)  letme  go  wit^  my 'dau^bifer'iH'the  spirit  tahd 

.  of  our  faihers  r^    They  "endeavored'  to  if'or'c^  hfe^  'froiii'^lhe 

grate,  hilt  she  clung  to 'her' dea^  child,  and  they  at  last 

'  ylemed  io  her  wiu,  and  when  Xiivi^r '  reached  tb^d  s)pot '  it 


r 

Let 


I 


T^N  .;l??iA^  JN.9IfE9|Ojr. 


?11 


was  too  Ifiii^  Jto  restore' th,e  mptJjertoo  U£e,  the  vital  sjMwk 
lji^4  fl^d.  ,  He,  il^ad  ^eaf Q«Jy  pojwjl^ded,  the  relation  w^iep,  *n 
,]Ui,4i^u,hwtef  .came  to  the  ^i^se,  a^^  inforpaed,  t^e  doei/or 
that^,alf.,a  i»ile  helow.  he;ha.d,f9UQd  tjiebody.  pf.a  .w}]L|^e 
person  among  the  driftwood,  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  .T^ey 
hastened  to  tlie  slypxe,  and  fQun4  the  Qorpser.of  pe(^ge/who 
I  have  jbefprq^p^^ntipned,  was  drj^Triiwd,  though  I,.^l|^e  I 
dJLd.nota^d  the  Jf^Qt,.  that  his  body  w^  ppt  Ci2>,uij4./I"  ^Tf^^y 
days;  after,  ,  They  h^d  seai?chLe4.in„yain  for  hiin^;^^d  ,nQw,  a 
,ff  e^  tide  pf j  gri^  gwshedoyer^he.heai^of  the^  parjentSjAs 
^thiey  ^aw  he^ojre  .llbiem  the  l^         dififigur^4^*?W'i?  of  tl^eir 

..,,^^  s^orttipae  after  thjs^tppk. place,  the  nwrjage  Qf,|ijl^s 
,§^th.,,apd  ,^r.  i^ail^y.  The  cajeer  of  this  gentleman  had 
Jtieen.ii|ftthea:,,j|it.ere§ti4^g.  He,  Wjas  a,natji]k[e  of  ;plpgjU^d,.pf 
^  ^^sppqtah.l^  pajcen^age,  a^d  })r^d^  U>. ,  tjbe .  medical ,  p^ofe^^n, 
.  iJe  wa^^aofif aj^l^  ,>5rith, .  ^ir  .^stjby.  Popper,  ftnd  Ab^rnathy , 
^and.i^  wi^9^^e4,^^^)^.pf  .thsiiJi.jRpsypt^fq^^.surgi^l 

His  assoej^ti<?ins  l^^d,  been J^fl»png;  (the  ,l^l9(9d^,  ,pf  [  Jj/OjtK^n, 
andtp^t^  ip^ay  li^^  attributed  .l^.fa^t.of,  ^s,[9pjjtracfi^  an 
Jip^^^ialjle  tlMrst,,for,..spif^^v?,l|q^rs.  ,  Vvo)^h]y  W>ih^^^^ 
,,  ^f  ^ |,l^^se. in|jij9pqea  >jfas  t]b,e,(nt^po^, ,Qf  _ hjis,,;Bi^ther, ,^d,  th?:pe 
.^fist^j!^yi^en^yj|yg.t9,A^4p.a.  ,,,% 
.^JPF^^^ItertQ-P^iSPpd  ^e^ult8^,^r,:|ji^^ojjyse  Yrf^_^.,uDJ^|^r- 

.^R^te^JP^Wi^i^^'9^-,.  Tfe^Jb?^9ft?^MHM«d  FHl?i.aftim 
f.ni;psy#ng}y,^^d,^,9ieii[}ply  rep|¥)x^4,  w|^l^o)jt  ^f^t,  ,tiH,4>;ie 
,,*?orniijg^.,after}^^f|^ i^V'^iiallj.ise^^re  ^-^b^e;. ,%m. .Ws  m/^r, 

.,><>M^.^^fPW<»wW-  <A,t'TOS:«ir,9i#iC^pp J^rn,.ftpd 
Jiit^  the-/P4,Si^Cva6.,faj!^  as-  (;^a)^.i(o^i%,ifvas  qi4t^,_§w^,(}ien^.  of 
,s^o^^.4jity,for,pn^sp  ge^tlx.^^red.  as.f^e^Jia^.feeu.  ,^^c- 


'* 


■ft " :' 
If.  ~ 


t 


112 


TKK  YEARS  IN    ORKGON. 


■'!  ; 


cordingly,  the  first  opportunity,  as  he  expressed  it,  he  took 
French  leave,  and  for  years  wandered  about  in  California, 
among  a  people  of  loose,  dissolute  habits,  and,  judging  from 
hints  given  by  himself,  made  slow  progress  in  the  work  of 
reform. 

A  way  opening,  he,  with  several  others,  started  for  the 
Columbia  river  on  a  trapping  excursion.  Having  selected  no 
leader,  and  all  aspiring  to  that  honorable  office,  their  journey 
was  a  continual  scene  of  bickering  and  contention.  At  the 
first  point  of  danger,  when  attacked  by  the  Cheste  Indians, 
they  experienced  all  t'le  evil  effects  arising  from  such  an  in- 
iquitous coarse,  proving  the  truth  of  the  saying,  "a  house 
divided  against  itself  cannot  stand,"  for  in  the  contest  most 
of  the  number  were  killed,  four  hundred  miles  from  their 
destination.  Baily  himself  was  badly  wounded.  The  sur- 
vivors having  been  robbed  of  every  thing,  waiif'ered  in  the 
wilderness,  suflFering  much  from  want  of  food,  till  at  last  they 
were  obliged  to  slay  their  only  remaining  horse.  After  de- 
vouring the  emaciated  carcass,  for  many  days  they  subsisted 
on  snails  and  insects,  just  enough  to  sustain  life. 

When  Baily  arrived  at  the  bank  of  the  river  opposite  the 
mission,  he  was  so  weak  and  debilitated  that  he  was  unable 
to  call  for  assistance  ;  but  knowing  that  unless  he  reached 
the  settlement  he  must  perish,  he  attempted  to  swim  the 
rapid  current.  He  succeeded  for  a  few  rods,  when  he  was 
obliged  to  return,  and  with  great  difficulty  crawled  upon  the 
shore,  with  scarce  breath  or  consciousness  in  his  wasted 
body.  Fortunately,  he  was  discovered  and  carried  to  the 
mission,  where  his  reception  and  treatment  were  such  as 
perhaps  I  had  better  leave  him  to  record  when  he  writes  his 
own  biography.  From  thence  he  went  to  Fort  Vancouver, 
where,  being  under  the  surgeon's  care,  he  recovered  in  a 


m- 


fl 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OUKOOK. 


118 


few  weeks.  From  this  time  he  wandered  about  with  no 
employment  save  such  as  cuttin^r  anJ  splitting  rails,  for  two 
shillings  per  hundred,  of  which,  as  he  had  little  strength, 
and  less  inclination  for  such  pursuits,  he  soon  wearied. 

At  length  he  visited  Cahfornia  a  second  time,  in  compan} 
with  Mr.  Young  and  his  party,  who  went  thither  for  cattle  ; 
and  it  was  after  his  return  that  T)r.  White  first  saw  him. 
His  curiosity  was  roused  by  receiving  from  him  a  recipe, 
very  neatly  written,  employing  medical  terms  for  the  articles 
he  wished  to  obtain  ;  and,  in  conversation  with  a  gentleman 
he  learned  some  of  his  history,  and  thought  that,  with  pro- 
per encouragement,  he  might  be  induced  to  reform.  He 
sent  him  an  invitation  to  call  on  him,  but  he  declined.  He 
afterwards  had  an  interview  with  him,  in  which  he  enquired 
what  he  purposed  for  the  future.  He  replied  very  indef- 
initely, and  the  doctor  proposed  to  him  to  enter  his  family 
for  six  months,  and  partially  review  his  studies,  to  prepare 
himself  again  for  practice  in  his  profession.  He  was  amazed, 
touched,  and  hardly  knew  how  to  answer,  and  left,  promis- 
ing to  see  the  doctor  again.  In  a  few  days  he  accepted  the 
proffer. 

He  was  an  educated  man,  soured  by  adversity,  and  bi- 
tingly  sarcastic,  and  consequently  was  not  a  favorite  among 
the  people  ;  indeed,  had  very  few  friends.  At  the  end  of 
six  months,  his  modest,  unassuming  manners,  and  studious - 
ness  had  elevated  him  in  the  pubhc  estimation,  and  he  pos- 
sessed its  entire  confidence  as  a  skillful  physician,  which  he 
proved  himself  to  be. 

For  the  first  time  in  seven  years,  he  now  wrote  his  mo- 
ther, informing  her  of  his  whereabouts,  and  promising  to  visit 
her  as  soon  as  possible.     Soon  after  he  made  proposals  to 

Miss  Smith,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  her  hand,   and  a 
8 


:u 


.'.'l'J■l^l 


4- 


!('. 


■■i-i: 


til 


'  !| 


114 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


year  subsequent  made  good  his  promise,  and  visited  his  mo- 
ther in  the  States,  where  they  remained  several  months. 
He  was  afterwards  elected  one  of  the  three  executives  in  the 
government  of  the  territory. 

One  of  Bailey's  companions  in  his  last  expedition  to  Cali- 
fornia, was  John  Turner,  a  man  who  had  been  engaged  in 
some  of  the  rashest  adventures  encountered  in  the  last 
twenty  years.  He  was  a  man  of  singular  genius,  and  some 
of  his  tales  were  very  amusing. 

One  little  incident  he  sometimes  related  of  his  travels  un- 
der a  government  officer,  in  the  western  wilds  of  what  is  now 
the  State  of  Missouri.  Some  sixty  miles  west  of  the  near- 
est settlement,  they  came  in  sight  of  a  log  hut,  having  about 
it  an  appearance  differing  from  the  common  Indian  cabins. 
They  entered  it,  and  found  there  a  man  and  woman,  with 
several  children,  who  were  as  sly  and  suspicious  as  the  wild- 
est savages  in  the  country.  They  at  length  gained  their 
confidence,  and  learned  that  twenty  years  before,  the  man 
had  become  a  fugitive  from  justice,  and  with  his  family  fled 
to  this  solitude,  where,  for  the  whole  length  of  time  they  had 
not  seen  a  single  face  of  their  own  color.  They  had  in  their 
possession  garments  which  they  had  brought  from  the  States, 
but  they  were  so  patched  that  it  w^as  literally  impossible  to 
distinguish  their  original  color.  They  seemed  happy,  and 
evinced  not  the  slightest  desire  to  mingle  again  with  their 
race,  stating  that  from  their  long  isolated  residence,  they 
were  incapacitated  for  enjoying  society. 

Turner  was  with  Bailey,  and  was  the  means  of  saving  the 
lives  of  the  survivors  of  his  party  in  their  encounter  with  the 
Chestes.  This  young  Hercules,  hke  Samson  of  jawbone 
memory,  seized  a  large  pine  knot,  and  making  such  havoc 
among  the  copper  colors,  that  he  at  last  succeeded  in  driv- 


TEN    YKARS  IN   OREGON. 


115 


'ing  thftm  oft'.  A  few  years  previous,  he  was  associated  with 
Captain  Smith  and  a  trapping  party  of  twenty,  who  were 
attacked  by  a  band  of  savages,  and  every  man,  excepting 
himself  and  Smith,  killed. 

This  old  veteran  afterwards  turned  hermit.  Whether  in 
imitation  of  the  one  he  saw  in  early  life,  I  cannot  say ;  but 
with  an  Indian  wife  lives  as  secluded  as  possible,  at  no  smaj) 
remove  from  the  settlement. 


■  ■  I 


f.. 

1.1 

I  ( 


;•$; 
.'-(.', 


i 

4 

■  }  -. 

W'' 

.■  ■  ■,< 

V".. 


i.'i' 


m  'iaa 

\ 

. 

'If 

UG 


TSN   TEARS  IN    OIlEao:^ 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


fe?'U 


'  hi, 

'f  ^' •"* ' 

ill'- 


<?:  I.- 


Daniel  Lee's  adventure— Visit  from  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Beaver — ^English 
domeatic — Visit  from  Dr.  Whitman  and  Gov'nor  and  Mrs.  McLaugh- 
lin— Mode  of  travelling — Mr.  Hall  and  Lady — Party  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — Intermarriage  with  the  natives — Origin  of  the  cus- 
tom— Extract  from  Astoria — Return  of  Mrs.  Lee — News — Rfiect — 
Oregon  Institute — Agriculture--— Mr.  Lee's  course  on  his  first  arrival 
in  the  country — Results — Exploring  tour  to  the  Umpqua  country — 
Willamette  Valley — Umpqua  mountains — Difficult  assent — A  plan- 
tation— Polite  reception — Return — Meeting  with  an  Indian  party — 
Narrative  of  the  Chief 

I  HAD  nearly  forgotton  to  notice  an  adventure  of  Mr. 
Daniel  Lee's,  .similar  to  one  related  in  a  former  chapter. 
While  ho  was  at  the  Dalles,  it  became  necessary  for  him  to 
return  to  head  quarters  for  provisions.  In  endeavoring  to 
follow  a  trail,  made  a  long  time  before  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  which  had  not  been  travelled  of  late,  and  was 
nearly  obUterated,  he  strayed  from  it,  and  a  journey  which 
should  have  been  made  in  four  days,  now  occupied  fifteen. 
This  occasioned  much  anxiety  and  alarm,  and  a  suitable 
party  had  collected  to  explore  the  wilderness  in  search  of 
their  lost  friend,  when  he  appeared  among  them,  sufficiently 
wasted  and  haggard  to  warrant  them  in  believing  the  tale 
he  told  of  having  had  to  subsist  on  horse  flesh. 

About  this  time  Dr.  and  Mrs.  White  received  several  visits 
from  their  friends,  and  among  the  first  was  one  from  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Beaver.  They  came  to  Champoeg  in  canoes,  and 
from  thence  on  horseback ;  and  as  they  rode  up  to  the  door. 


1..        r  . 


TEN  YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


117 


Mrs.  "White  could  not  help  admiring  Mr.  B's  beautiful  horfio, 
and  his  handsome  accoutrements. 

Their  attendants  were  English,  and  there  were  several 
exhibitions  during  tht-'ir  stay.  They  had  been  in  the  houw 
but  a  short  time,  when  Mrs.  Beaver  said  to  her  hostess, 
"now,  Mrs.  White,  if  you  have  occasion  for  the  services  of 
another  in  your  domestic  matters,  just  call  on  John ;  and  if 
he  does  not  obey  you  immediately,  hit  him  a  knock,  that 's  the 
way  I  do."  This  was  in  the  servant's  presence,  and  Mrs.  W. 
felt  somewhat  abashed,  for  he  was  a  man  of  at  least  ninety 
years  of  age,  and  of  much  more  than  common  stature.  But 
she  soon  saw  there  was  no  cause  for  embarrassment,  for, 
seemingly,  he  did  not  notice  his  mistress's  language,  and  she 
could  not  avoid  wondering  how  an  American  domestic  would 
have  borne  it.  They  were  much  pleased  with  every  thing 
around  them,  especially  the  indoor  arrangements,  as  might 
be  inferred  from  the  lady's  exclamation  on  first  entering  the 
house — "Why,  Mrs.  White,"  said  she,  "  how  nice  this  is; 
it  looks  as  though  a  white  woman's  hands  had  been  here. 
This  is  the  first  White  woman's  house  I  have  been  in  since 
ray  arrival  in  this  country."  They  were  highly  intellectual 
people,  and  their  stay  was  truly  a  "feast  of  reason  and  a 
flow  of  soul." 

After  this.  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman,  of  the  Presbyterian 
mission,  at  Waiilatpu,  near  Wallawalla,  spent  a  few  days  with 
them.  During  his  visit,  Mr.  Leslie  sent  out  invitations  for  a 
little  party,  and  the  friends  met  together,  and  through  the 
evening  were  agreeably  entertained  by  his  account  of  the 
affairs  at  his  mission. 

They  also  received  a  visit  from  Dr.  McLaughlin  and  his 
wife.  The  style  in  which  they  travelled  was  rather  novel, 
bringing  with  them  beds,  bedding,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  bread. 


,    ■  I'i^'f^ 


I.   .    I.: 


t , 


i  ' 


W 


iih 


118 


TUN    YEARS   IN    ORKOOK. 


cakes,  cheese  ;  and    not    even   the    wine  was   left    behind 
They  were  attended  by  a  numerous  suite,  never  forgetting 
the  cook.     Tlic  doctor's  urbanity  of  manners,  intelligence, 
and  excellence  of  character,  rendered  his  visits  very  agree- 
able. 

Mr.  E.  O.  Ilall,  and  lady — who,  it  will  be  remembered, 
were  referred  to  in  Mrs.  Smith's  letter — also  arrived,  biing- 
ing  with  them  a  small  printing  press,  a  present  from  the 
Sandwich  Islanders  to  the  upper  mission,  and  a  man  and 
woman  who  were  very  pious,  and  cheerful  in  rendering  any 
service  which  they  could  do  most  usefully.  Their  principal 
object  in  visiting  the  Columbia  river,  was  to  seek  the  benefit 
of  Mrs.  H's  health,  which  was  very  delicate.  She  had  not 
for  years  been  able  to  walk  any  distance,  Mrs.  White's  im- 
pressions were  very  curious  as  she  witnessed  Mrs.  Hall's 
singular  entry  into  her  house.  Two  Sandwich  Islanders 
entered  the  house  without  speaking  or  knocking,  bearing 
the  sick  lady  in  a  mat  litter,  and  deposited  their  burthen 
unceremoniously  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  from  which  she 
arose  as  unconcerned  as  though  stepping  from  the  little  car- 
riage in  which  the  ladies  of  the  islands  are  usually  drawn  by 
a  single  attendant.  After  some  weeks  had  expired,  as  Mrs. 
Hall's  health  was  much  improved,  and  her  husband  had  in- 
structed the  missionaries  in  the  art  of  printing,  they  started 
for  home,  their  departure  much  regretted  by  their  enter- 
tainers. 

Perhaps  my  readers  would  be  pleased  to  hear  something 
more  particular  of  the  parties  sent  out  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  as  they  have  so  often  been  mentioned.  One  of 
these  parties  passed  through  the  settlement  about  the  time 
of  Mr.  Hall's  visit,  and  the  manner  of  their  procedures  will 
illustrate  the  general  custom.     Tliey  start  in  the  spring  for 


TEN    YEARS   IK    OKEOOK. 


ll(* 


Oalifornla,  carrying  with  tlKin  morcliandiso  and  Englisli 
goods,  for  barter  with  the  natives,  and  n'lurn.  laden  witli 
furs,  principally  of  the  beaver  and  otter.  This  company, 
just  before  entering  the  settlement,  whicli  was  early  in 
the  morning,  stopped  to  remove  from  their  persons  stains 
and  traces  of  travel,  and  dress  themstilves  carefully  in 
their  best  attire.  They  then  formed  themselves  in  Indian 
file,  led  by  Mr.  La  Fromboy,  the  chief  of  the  party.  Next 
him  rode  his  wife,  a  nalive  woman,  astride — as  is  common 
with  the  females — upon  her  ]}ony,  quite  picturesquely  clad. 
She  wore  a  man's  hut,  with  long  black  feathers  fastened  in 
front,  and  drooping  behind  very  gracefully.  Her  short  dress 
was  of  rich  broadcloth,  leggins  beautifully  embroidered  with 
gay  beads,  and  fringed  with  tiny  bells,  whose  delicate,  mu- 
sical tinkling,  could  be  heard  at  several  hundred  yards  dis- 
tance. Next,  the  clerk  and  his  wife,  much  in  the  same 
manner ;  and  so  on  to  the  officers  of  less  importance,  and 
the  men  ;  and  finally  the  boys,  driving  the  pack  horses,  with 
bales  of  furs,  one  hundred  and  eighty  punds  to  each  animal. 
The  trampling  of  the  fast-walking  horses,  the  silvery  tinkling 
of  the  small  bells,  rich,  handsome  dresses,  and  fine  appear- 
ance of  the  riders,  whose  number  amounted  to  sixty  or  sev- 
enty. The  array  was  really  patriarchal,  and.  had  quite  an 
imposing  appearance. 

It  is  customary  for  the  members  of  the  party  to  take  unto 
themselves  Indian  wives.  It  is  their  policy,  considered  by 
them  necessary  to  conciliate  the  good  will  of  the  tribes. 
The  officers  set  the  example,  and  have  ever  encouraged  the 
men  to  follow  it,  each  taking  to  be  his  wife  the  daughter  of 
a  chief,  whose  grade  corresponded  with  his  own.  For  in- 
stance, Governor  McLaughlin,  and  Mr.  James  Douglas,  hold- 
ing the  highest  offices  in  the  company,  selected  the  daugli- 


-•4i^ 


m.^ 


m: 


ii 


120 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


tcrs  of  the  first  chiefs  of  the  most  important  tribes  in  the 
country. 

The  gentlemen  are  at  great  pains  to  educate  their  wives 
iuid  children,  and  they  often  become  refined,  pleasing,  and 
engaging  in  their  manners.  The  custom  did  not,  however, 
originate  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  for  one  of  the 
first  accounts  we  have  of  a  marriage  of  this  kind,  was  that 
of  McDougal,  of  the  Astor  Company,  with  the  daughte*-  of 
the  one-eyed  chief,  Comcomly,  "  who  held  sway  over  the 
fishing  tribe  of  the  Chenooks,  inid  had  long  supplied  the 
factory  with  smelts  and  sturgeons." 

The  following:  is  a  brief  relation  of  the  affair  from  Wash- 
ington  Irving's  "  Astoria  :" 

"  Some  accounts  give  rather  a  romantic  origin  to  this 
affair,  tracing  it  to  the  stormy  night  when  McDougal,  in  the 
course  of  an  exploring  expedition,  was  driven  by  stress  of 
weather,  to  seek  shelter  in  the  royal  abode  of  Comcomly. 
Then  and  there  he  was  first  struck  with  the  charms  of  this 
piscatory  princess,  as  she  exerted  herself  to  entertain  her 
father's  guest.  The  "Journal  of  Astoria,"  however,  which 
was  kept  under  his  own  eye,  records  this  union  as  a  high 
state  alliance,  and  a  great  stroke  of  policy.  The  factory  had 
to  depend  in  a  great  measure  on  the  Chenooks  for  provis- 
ions. They  were  at  present  friendly,  but  it  Avas  to  be  feared 
they  would  prove  otherwise,  should  they  discover  the  weak- 
ness and  exigencies  of  the  post,  and  the  intention  of  aban- 
doning the  country.  This  alliance,  therefore,  would  infalli- 
bly rivet  Comcomly  to  the  interests  t  f  the  Astorians,  and 
with  him  the  powerful  tribe  of  the  Chenooks.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  and  it  is  hard  to  fathom  the  real  policy  of  governors 
and  princes,  McDougal  despatched  two  of  the  clerks  as  em- 
bassadors extraordinary,  to  wait  upon  the  one-eyed  chieftain, 


*''. 


TEN   YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


121 


and  make  overtures  for  the  hand  of  his  daughter.  The 
Chenooks,  though  not  a  very  refined  nation,  have  notions 
that  would  not  disgrace  the  most  refined  sticklers  for  settle- 
ment and  pin  money.  The  suiior  repairs  not  to  the  howor 
of  his  mistress,  but  to  her  father's  lodge,  and  throws  down 
a  present  at  his  feet.  His  wishes  are  then  disclosed  by  some 
discreet  friend,  employed  by  him  for  the  purpose.  If  the 
suitor  and  his  present  find  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  father, 
he  breaks  the  matter  to  his  daughter,  and  inquires  into  the 
state  of  hor  inclinations.  Should  her  answer  be  favorable, 
the  suit  is  accepted,  and  the  lover  has  to  make  further  pres- 
ents to  the  father,  of  horses,  canoes,  and  other  valuables, 
according  to  the  beauty  and  merits  of  the  bride ;  looking 
forward  to  a  return  in  kind  v.henever they  shall  go  to  house 
keeping.  The  shrewdness  of  Comcomly  was  never  exerted 
more  adroitly  than  on  this  occasion.  He  was  a  great  friend 
of  McDougal,  and  pleased  at  the  idea  of  having  so  distin- 
guished a  son-in-law ;  but  so  favorable  an  opportunity  of 
benefitting  his  own  fortune  was  not  likely  to  occur  a  second 
time,  and  he  determined  to  make  t'  3  most  of  it.  Accord- 
ingly, the  negotiation  was  protracted  with  true  diplomatic 
skill. 

Conference  after  conference  was  held  with  the  two  ambas- 
sadors. Comcomly  was  extravagant  in  his  terms  ;  rating  the 
charms  cf  his  daughter  at  the  highest  price,  and,  indeed, 
she  is  represented  as  having  the  flattest,  most  aristocratical 
head  in  the  tribe.  At  length  the  preliminaries  were  all 
happily  adjusted.  On  the  20th  of  July,  early  in  the  after- 
noon, a  squadron  of  canoes  crossed  from  the  village  of  the 
Chenooks,  bearing  the  royal  family  of  Comcomly,  and  all  his 
court.  That  worthy  sachem  landed  in  princely  state,  array- 
ed in  a  bright  blue  blanket,  with  an  extra  qimntity  of  paint 


•I-. 


K-: 


;   f 


'-\ 


122 


TEN    FEARS  IN    OREGON. 


I  'if;. 


rt-^ 


i 


.h« 


and  feathers,  attended  by  a  train  of  half-naked  warriors  and 
nobles.  A  house  was  in  waiting  to  receive  the  princess,  who 
was  mounted  behind  one  of  the  clerks,  and  Avas  thus  con- 
voy a,  coy  but  compliant,  to  the  fortress.  Here  she  was  re- 
ceived with  devout,  though  decent  joy,  by  her  expecting 
bridegroom  Her  bridal  adornments  it  is  true,  at  first 
caused  some  little  dismay,  having  painted  and  adorned  her- 
self according  to  the  Chenook  toilet ;  by  dint  however  of  co- 
pious ablutions,  she  was  freed  from  all  adventitious  tint  and 
fragrance,  and  entered  into  the  nuptial  state,  the  cleanest 
princess  that  had  ever  been  known  of  the  somewhat  unctu- 
ous tribe  of  Chenooks. 

From  that  time  forward,  Comcomly  was  a  daily  visitor  at 
the  fort,  and  was  admitted  into  the  most  intimate  councils  of 
his  son-in-law.  He  took  an  interest  in  every  thing  that  was 
going  forward,  but  was  particularly  frequent  in  his  visits  to 
the  blacksmith's  shop,  tasking  the  labors  of  the  artificer  in 
iron  for  every  kind  of  weapon  and  implement  suited  to  the 
savage  state,  insomuch  that  the  necessary  business  of  the 
factory  was  often  postponed  to  attend  to  his  requisitions. 
Comcomly  was  very  proud  of  his  son-in-law,  till  McDougal 
so  traitorously  gave  to  Black,  an  English  commander,  the 
possession  of  the  fort,  after  which  event  the  old  chief  would 
say  but  little  about  him,  excepting  that  his  daughter  thought 
she  had  married  a  great  bravv.,  but  she  was  mistaken,  for  he 
was  nothing  but  a  squaw." 

Mr.  Lee  returned  to  the  United  States  in  the  spring  of 
1840,  after  an  absence  of  two  years.  A  fine  hospital  had 
just  been  completed,  and  every  preparation  made  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  large,  expected  reinforcement.  Al- 
though he  was  expected,  he  managed  to  come  upon  them  by 
surprise.     As  soon  as  he  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 


TKS   YEARS   IN    OREO  ON. 


123 


lumbia,  early  in  June,  he  left  the  vessel,  and  with  an  Indian 
express,  travelling  in  advance  of  every  intelligence,  reached 
the  house  of  Dr.  White  one  morning  at  an  early  hour.  He 
remained  with  thom  but  a  few  moments,  and  went  on  to  the 
mission,  leaving  behind  a  list  of  the  party  he  had  brought 
with  him.  At  the  head  they  found  the  names  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Jason  Lee,  the  first  intimation  they  had  had  of  his  sec- 
ond marriage.  It  was  so  entirely  unlooked  for,  that  they 
were  as  if  thunder-struck;  the  news  of  Mrs.  Lee's  death 
had  been  sent  on  to  him,  and  they  had  often  looked  forward 
with  dread  and  son-ow  to  the  time  when  he  should  return  to 
the  home  which  the  death  of  his  beloved  wife  had  left  deso- 
late. But  sympathy  was  needless,  for  to  him  her  place  was 
already  filled  by  another.  Such  was  the  grief,  and  attach- 
ment to  their  deceased  sister,  of  the  whole  mission,  that  on 
the  first  day  of  his  arrival  none  had  the  heart  to  ask  a  single 
question  about  his  new  wife,  nor  did  he  once  refer  to  her. 
The  next  day  he  invited  Dr.  White  to  accompany  him  to 
Fort  Vancouver  to  meet  the  reinforcement.  In  compliance 
with  the  superintendent's  request,  they  were  all  convened  at 
seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  when  they  received  their  ap- 
pointments, and  listened  to  a  few  remarks  from  him,  after 
which  the  doctor  addressed  them,  giving  an  account  of  the 
deaths,  revivals,  reformations,  etc.,  at  the  Dalles  and  Willa- 
mette, all  of  which  seemed  much  to  interest  them.  In  turn, 
he  was  much  pleased  with  the  neat  and  respectable  appear- 
ance of  his  auditors.  Having  been  for  three  years  so  com- 
pletely isolated  from  the  fashionable  world,  the  new  modes 
and  fashions  which  they  brought  with  them  struck  him  very 
pleasantly,  and  he  thought  that  so  large  a  party,  and  of  such 
a  cast,  reflected  honor  on  the  American  churches,  and  told 
favorably  for  their  sentiments  on  the  subject  of  missions.    It 


'  -f  !■■. 


i 


moML 


124 


TEK   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


1  iV  i 


^.  r>  ■"■> 


seemed  really  like  the  arrival  of  the  pilgrim  fathers  in  New 
England  ;  and  it  may  be  inquired,  if  their  influence  was  any 
thing  like  what  the  fat.iers'  would  have  been.  The  mission 
influence,  for  a  time,  wn5  deeply  felt  in  the  colony,  and 
through  it  was  laid  a  broad  baai=;  for  tlic  promotion  of  civil- 
ization and  literature.  Churches  and  mills  were  erected, 
herds  introduced,  farms  enlarged,  and  the  Oregon  Institute 
built.  This  building  was  a  noble  edifice,  one  hundred  feet 
by  ninety-four,  and  contained  four  stories.  It  was  estab- 
lished for  the  instruction  of  the  children  of  the  colony,  who 
came  in  numbers  from  all  parts.  The  school  was  well  taught 
and  conducted,  and  examinations  and  exhibitions  were  held 
there  which  would  perhaps  have  done  honor  to  many  of  the 
popular  academies  of  this  country.  This  was  not  the  only 
school  in  the  colony,  there  were  several  others ;  but  this  was 
carried  on  on  a  more  extensive  plan,  and  was  a  valuable  ac- 
quisition to  the  country. 

But  to  return.  There  w  3re  fifty-two  members  of  the  new 
recruit,  and  the  following  is  the  disposition  which  was  made 
of  them.  Dr.  Richmond  and  lady.,  without  being  gratified 
with  a  sight  of  the  old  mission  at  the  Willamette,  were  sent 
off  to  Nesqually,  a  hundred  miles  north  of  the  Columbia, 
and  Mr.  Frost  and  lady  to  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Dr.  Bab- 
cock  and  family,  and  Mr.  Brewer,  were  despatched  to  the 
assistance  of  Lee  and  Perkins,  at  the  Dalles.  The  residue 
were  conveyed  to  the  mission,  to  be  afterwards  distributed 
as  should  be  deemed  advisable.  The  nearest  Methodist  station 
to  the  old  mission,  in  the  upper  country,  was  at  the  Dalles. 
This  was  strictly  an  Indian  mission,  conducted  on  much  the 
same  principle  that  were  those  of  Dr.  Whitman  and  his  as- 
sociates. Here,  as  among  them,  a  school  for  the  natives  was 
established,  Mr.  Brewer  also  opening  farms  for  them  as  well 


mH^ 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


125 


as  for  the  missionaries.  This  had  also  been  done  success- 
fully by  the  other  denomination,  resulting  beneficially  to  the 
natives,  as  will  be  seen  hereafter.  Too  much  can  hardly  be 
said  in  praise  of  the  Presbyterian  missions,  for  their  efforts 
in  behalf  of  the  Indians,  in  which  they  were  indefatigable. 
Mr.  Lee's  object  seemed  principally  to  introduce  a  better 
state  of  things  among  the  white  settlers,  which,  to  a  great 
degree,  succeeded.  He  had  originally  been  sent  out  to  labor 
among  the  Flathead  Indians,  and  passing  through  the  coim- 
try,  leaving  them  far  to  the  right,  went  on  to  the  Willamette, 
intending  to  spend  there  a  winter  before  proceeding  to  his 
destination.  He  found  the  mild,  equable  climate,  and  soci- 
ety, though  small,  of  whites,  more  congenial  to  his  habits 
than  any  thing  he  could  expect  in  the  section  to  which  he 
had  been  sent.  Thinking  that  he  discovered  signs  of  the 
colony  becoming  an  extensive  and  valuable  field  of  useful- 
ness, and  that,  for  various  reasons,  the  Flatheads  had  less 
claim  for  missionary  efforts  than  had  been  supposed,  he  de- 
termined to  assume  the  responsibility  and  commence  a  mis- 
sion on  the  Willamette.  He  directed  its  principal  energies 
to  bear  for  the  promotion  of  the  interests  of  the  white  pop- 
ulation, the  result  of  which  have  been  seen  in  the  erection 
of  mills,  etc.,  and  through  this  influence  also  a  perfect  form 
of  provisional  government  has  been  established  and  enforced 
for  years.  My  readers  may  have  often  heard  of  Mr.  Hines 
and  lady,  who  have  of  late  returned  from  Oregon  by  way 
of  China,  and  who  have  written  many  interesting  letters,  es- 
pecially of  the  missions  in  the  Celestial  Empire.  They  were 
with  the  last  mentioned  reinforcement,  and  assigned  a  station 
at  Umpqua,  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  south.  The  follow- 
ing August,  Mr.  Lee,  Mr.  Hine,  and  Dr.  White  sat  out  on  an 
exploring  tour,  for  a  suitable  spot  for  a  station.     They  trav- 


126 


TEN  YEARS   IN   OREGON. 


Vf^i, 


died  on  horseback,  with  a  single  attendant,  and  two  horses 
laden  with  their  blankets,  provisions,  etc.  In  two  days  they 
reached  the  Upper  end  of  the  Willamette  valley,  the  whole 
of  which  they  had  never  before  travelled,  and  as  all  others 
have  been,  were  delighted  with  its  lovely  scenery,  and  gen- 
eral fertility  of  the  soil.  As  no  hunters  had  visited  the  val- 
ley for  some  time,  they  found  fresh  signs  of  the  beaver,  and 
otter,  numerous  flocks  of  wild  fowl,  and  herds  of  deer  were 
scampering,  all  hours  of  the  day,  over  the  beautiful  plains. 
They  pushed  on  for  the  Umpqua  fort,  about  sixty  miles  from 
the  coast.  As  they  left  the  valley,  the  travelling  for  some 
distance  was  very  pleasant,  the  country  being  gently  undu- 
lating ;  but  it  became  more  and  more  hilly,  with  a  greater 
proportion  of  timber,  until  they  arrived  at  the  Umpqua 
mountains.  They  saw  many,  what  they  considered,  would 
be  veiy  desirable  locations  for  settlers,  fine  water  privileges, 
large  plains  well  grassed,  and  good,  tillable  soil.  Near  the 
foot,  and  in  the  spurs  of  the  mountains,  they  saw  the  cedars, 
of  Lebanon,  as  they  jocosely  pronounced  them,  being  the 
largest  they  had  seen  or  read  of  any  where,  except  in  Solo- 
mon's allusions.  A  faithful  delineation  of  the  size  and  beauty 
of  the  tree  might  actually  jeopardize  the  reputation  of  the 
writer  for  truthfulness,  and  it  would  not  therefore  be  advi- 
sable to  attempt  one. 

They  were  appalled  at  the  general  features  and  rugged- 
ness  of  the  mountain  they  were  to  climb,  and  somewhat  du- 
bious of  their  ability  to  conquer  the  ascent.  But  they 
pressed  on  with  the  conviction  that  "  faint  heart  never  won," 
etc.,  might  be  applied  to  more  than  one  kind  of  underta- 
king, and  clambered  perseveringly  over  fallen  timber  and 
rugged  steeps,  hardly  daring  to  look  ahead,  fearing  to  see 
greater  difficulties  and  entanglements.     At  length  they  came 


»,-t- 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


127 


to  a  narrow  ledgo,  which  they  traversed  with  cautious  steps, 
and  had  passed  the  most  dangerous  part,  when  their  guide 
pointed  out  to  thorn  the  phice  where  a  horse  of  the  Huu- 
son's  Bay  Company  had  fallen  some  seventy  feet  and  been 
dashed  to  atoms.  This  somewhat  hastened  the  pace  of  the 
travellers.  An  hour  more  and  they  were  at  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  when,  to  the  amusement  of  his  companions,  Mr. 
nines  rose  in  his  stirrups,  and  raising  his  hand,  said,  in  a  very 
earnest  manner,  "  my  wife  never  climbs  this  mountain  ;"  and 
she  never  did,  for  it  was  too  difficult  a  task  for  a  lady  to  en- 
counter. 

The  descent  was  less  arduous,  and  when  they  were  about 
half  way  down,  from  an  open  ground,  they  saw  in  the  val- 
ley beneath  a  little  plantation,  with  a  picket  enclosure,  and 
a  neat  dwelling  and  outhouses.  They  were  astonished  at  find- 
ing such  a  gem  in  so  isolated  a  spot,  surrounded  by  the  most 
savage  scenery  of  nature,  and  naught  but  Indian  inhabitants  a 
hundred  miles  around.  They  found  it  tenanted  by  a  French- 
man, stationed  there  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  living 
in  comparative  comfort,  raising  considerable  corn  and  vege- 
tables. With  true  French  suavity  he  welcomed  his  visitors 
with  great  demonstrations  of  joy,  and  making  a  thousand 
apologies  that  he  had  no  better  fare  to  offer  such  important 
personages,  as  he  chose  to  call  them.  They  spent  two  days 
with  him,  when  circumstances  no  longer  permitting  the  doc- 
tor's stay  from  home,  he  started  on  his  return,  leaving  Mr. 
Lee  and  Hines  to  prosecute  their  investigations,  which  they 
did  to  the  coast.  An  account  of  this  was  afterwards  pub- 
lished, including  a  merry  relation  of  their  council  with  the 
Indians  ;  and  the  fall  of  their  pack  horse,  provisions  and  all, 
from  a  height  of  forty  feet,  into  the  river. 

Dr.  White  was  accompanied  by  an  Indian  boy,  who  had 


•' «  a-.   1 


ii 


-1'  >    rV  V   t 

4.        .iv    ' 


'V. 


f  1 1  mi 


■tetic; 


128 


TEN  YEARS   IN    ORKGOK. 


been  a  slave,  captur^id  in  warfare  when  about  ten  years  old, 
by  the  Umpquas^,  from  the  Chestes,  remaining  with  them  for 
years,  until  purchased  by  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
who  afterwards  settled  in  the  Willamette.  Here  the  doctor 
found  him,  and  bought  his  freedom,  and  the  youth  accom- 
panied him  on  this  as  well  as  other  excursions,  and  was  a 
valuable  assistant,  being  an  expert  rider  and  remarkably 
trusty  for  one  of  his  race.  They  retraced  their  lonely  way 
over  the  mountain  without  any  occurrence  worthy  of  men- 
tioning, till  they  foimd  an  encampment  for  the  night.  They 
built  a  fire  beside  a  log  and  stretched  themselves  on  the 
ground ;  but  the  doctor  could  not  drive  from  his  mind  the 
idea  that  he  was  a  hundred  miles  from  uny  of  his  own 
race,  and  in  the  midst  of,  for  aught  he  knew,  hostile  tribes, 
and  it  dissipated  the  repose  his  weary  form  so  much  cov- 
eted. About  sunrise,  they  were  aroused  by  a  light,  quick 
tread,  and,  to  their  alarm,  discovered  advancing  towards 
them,  on  the  last  night's  trail,  a  half  dozen  Avell  armed  Indi- 
ans. Springing  to  thier  feet,  they  grasped  the  guns  which 
lay  beside  them,  and  stood  on  their  guard  ;  but  soon  saw 
there  was  no  occasion  for  apprehensions,  for  the  leader  came 
forward,  trailing  his  weapon,  and  proffered  his  hand  with 
the  grace  of  a  well-bred  Frenchman.  His  companions  fol- 
lowed his  example,  and  then  quietly  seated  themselves  on 
the  ground.  They  said  they  had  heard  the  missionaiies 
Averc  in  the  country,  seeking  for  a  place  to  settle ;  that  they 
were  glad,  and  had  come  to  seek  and  welcome  them,  but 
being  unable  to  find  them,  had  discovered  the  trail  the  day 
before  and  followed  it. 

After  some  conversation  the  chief  gave  a  slight  history  of 
the  last  six  years  of  his  life.  A  large  party  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  passing  through  the  coimtry  on  their 


TKN  vears  in  oheqon. 


129 


ay 


eir 


way  to  Califoniia,  persuaded  him  to  go  with  them  on  a 
limiting  and  trapping  cxcurson  to  that  country.  He  gave  a 
\ery  just  description  of  the  chara  ter  of  the  company,  hght, 
gay,  frivolous,  and  sometimes  profane.  One  only  of  the 
party  differed  widely  from  the  rest.  This  one  the  chief  ob- 
served, at  the  close  o^  each  day's  journey,  to  retire  to  a  dis- 
tance from  the  camp,  and  kneel  in  an  attitude  of  deep  devo- 
tion, for  some  length  of  time.  This,  with  his  calm,  consist- 
ent demeanor,  impressed  the  son  of  the  forest  so  forcibly, 
that  he  begged  and  received  permission  to  accompany  him, 
and  there  listened  to  the  devoted  prayers  and  pious  instruc-* 
tions  of  the  good  man  ;  and  it  was  followed  by  good  results, 
for  he  learned  of  God,  His  Son,  and  the  Holy  Spirit.  He 
longed  for  the  time  to  come  when  he  should  return  to  his 
home,  for  he  wished  to  communicate  to  his  people  his  lately 
acquired  knowledge  of  a  religion  which  had  imparted  to  his 
spirit  a  new  and  delicious  enjoyment. 

At  his  strange  revelations  they  were  amazed,  and,  like  a 
••  little  leaven  leavening  a  whole  lump,"  the  work  began,  and 
spread  among  them,  and,  for  a  time,  a  forcible  change  was 
perceivable  in  the  whole  tribe.  But  gradually,  as  it  often  is 
in  other  countries,  one  by  one  they  lost  their  first  impres- 
sions, till,  as  he  expressed  it,  pointing  to  his  little  number, 
*•  all  but  these  have  left  me,  and  the  good  and  the  right 
way,"  Tears  rolled  down  his  cheeks,  and  grief  was  visibly 
portrayed  on  his  dark  face.  "  I've  told  them  all  I  know, 
and  many  times,  till  they  have  become  tired,  and  now  my 
heart  jumps  within  me  that  the  missionaries  are  coming  to 
crive  them  more  knowledge,  and  make  again  God's  love  to 
shine  in  their  hearts." 

Their  listener  told  them  all  he  knew  of  Mr.  Lee's  purpo- 
ses, and  invited  them  to  visit  the  mission.     When  the  time 
9 


V 

I- 

ir ' 

it' "'. 
if  •  ' 


5    \{: 
t    jji 


130 


TBM  YBAR8   IN  OREQOK. 


for  separation  arrived,  the  little  company  knelt  in  prayer  to 
their  Great  Father,  and  the  doctor  observed  with  interest 
the  humble,  devoted  bearing  of  his  visitors,  and  their  emo- 
tions, as  they  hstened  to  the  words  of  suppUcation.  He  also, 
for  the  first,  discovered  they  were  Catholics,  by  their  cros- 
sing themselves  repeatedly  and  devoutly.  Himself  and  his 
companions  left  the  place,  and  always  remembered  it  as  a 
hallowed  spot,  consecrated  by  the  impressive  scene  they  had 
witnessed. 


'iSN    YEARS   IN   OHUOON, 


lai 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Difficulty  with  Mr.  Lee— Extract  from  a  report  of  the  board  of  rai«- 
sions — Erabarcation — Delightful  voyage  to  the  Islands — Danger 
— Mrs.  W.'a  concern — The  pilot  again — Visitors — Exploring  squad- 
ron— Pic-nic— Embark  for  the  United  States— Passenger©— Mr. 
Diell's  death — Social  parties — Hailing  a  vessel — Aarrival  in  port- 
Bennett's  express. 

Soon  after  this  expedition,  arose  a  difficulty  between  Mr. 
Lee  and  Dr.  White,  which  was  the  cause  of  the  doctor's  re- 
turn home.  It  is  not  worth  while  to  give  the  particulars ; 
suffice  it,  that  the  diflference  was  an  honest  one,  in  relation 
to  the  best  way  and  means  of  carrying  forward  the  objeots 
of  the  mission.  Tliis  small  matter,  as  is  unfor-tunately  often 
the  case,  gave  rise  to  other  disagreements,  m  which,  not 
only  sentiment,  but  feeling  was  enlisted.  Dr.  White  re- 
signed ;  and  thinking  it  the  most  honorable  course  he  could 
pursue,  under  the  circumstances,  resolved,  in  a  written  cor- 
respondence with  Mr.  Lee,  to  state  his  reasons  for  so  doing ; 
and  then,  with  the  replies,  coming  and  laying  it  before  thv 
board  of  missions.  The  proceeding  was  right,  had  the  cor- 
respondence been  carried  on  with  a  Uttle  more  moderatioa, 
and  less  bitterness  of  spirit.  The  decision  of  the  board  will 
be  seen  in  the  following  extract  from  the  twenty-seventh 
annual  report : 

"  The  first  despatches  from  this  mission,  after  the  arrival 
of  the  great  reinforcement,  were  brought  in  the  ship  Lau- 
sanne, and  received  by  the  board  in  April,  1841.     Dr.  EK- 


l\ 


t: 


^       V 


t 


1     V. 


in 


.1     t 

i    I. 


132 


TEN   YL'AKS   IN    OHKGO^. 


i 


M'„ 


m 


f '•*'  ■ 


R,;^ 


jah  "White,  whu  had  rolurned  to  this  country  in  the  same 
vessel,  presented  himself  before  the  board  at  its  regular  meet- 
ing, held  on  the  twenty-first  of  the  same  month,  and  made 
a  verbal  communication.  From  his  remarks,  and  the  de- 
spatches of  the  superintendent,  it  appeared  that  after  a  most 
unpleasant  and  excited  controversy  between  himself  and  Mr. 
Jason  Lee,  he  had  been  induced  to  resign  his  office  as  phy- 
laician  to  the  mission.  After  liiearing  Dr.  White  in  his  de- 
fence, the  board  disapproved  of  his  leaving  the  mission  with- 
out their  consent,  but  directed  the  treasurer  to  settle  his  ac- 
counts. Letters  were  subsequently  received  from  Messrs. 
Kone  and  Richmond,  and  also  signed  by  several  lay-mem- 
bers of  the  mission,  all  of  which  indicated  dio^i^atisfaction 
with  their  cu'cumstauces,  and  more  or  less,  with  the  super- 
intendent. *  *  «  fr  * 

At  a  regular  meeting,  held  July  1*7,  1843,  the  board  re- 
newed the  recommendation  of  the  bishop,  either  to  appoint 
an  agent,  or  to  supersede  Mr.  Lee  by  a  new  supeiintendent. 
The  bishop  preferred  the  latter  course,  and  at  their  regular 
meeting  in  the  following  September,  informed  the  board, 
that  he  had  appointed  Rev.  George  Gary,  of  the  Black 
River  Conference,  to  the  superintendency  of  the  Oregon  mis- 
sion. This  announcement  was  received  by  the  most  decided 
expressions  of  gratification." 

And  so  ended  the  affair,  which  painful  as  it  was,  did  not 
greatly  involve  the  moral  character  of  either  party.  Hav- 
ing resigned,  and  the  correspondence  being  ended,  the  doc- 
tor, with  his  family,  embarked  in  the  brig  Maryland,  Capt. 
Couch,  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  And  now  for  prospects 
and  dreams  of  home,  after  four  years'  residence  in  the  far 
west.  They  had  a  delightful  run,  with  smooth  seas  and  fair 
winds,  not  a  storm  or  a  calm,  and  arrived  at  the  Islands 


-hi 


f'p 


TKN    YEARS  IN   OREGOV. 


lan 


rvftCM'  tlio  uniusuiiUy  short  passajrc  of  <*ightec'n  dixyn,  both 
officers  and  crew  cxertnig  themselves  to  render  it  as  pleas- 
ant and  agreeable  as  possible. 

Mrs.  White  was  troubled  and  unhappy  the  afternoon  and 
evening  before  they  anchored.     She  remembered  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  coast,  and  was  confident,  that  at  the  velocity 
with  which  they  were  sailing,  from  seven  to  nine  knots  an 
hour,  they  would  soon  be  on  the  rocks.     Neither  the  captain 
or  officers  had  ever  before  been  at  the  islands,  and  seemed 
at  a  loss  to  determine  their  position,  for  they  frequently  de- 
scended to  the  cabin,  and  looked  anxiously  over  the  chart. 
She  had  just  been  reading  of  the  wreck  of  a  vessel  on  this 
very  coast,  and  knew  by  the  deportment  of  the  captain  with 
whom  they  had  first  sailed,  that  great  caution  should  be  ob- 
served in  approaching  it.     Though  the  doctor  and  other  pas- 
sengers slept  in  unconscious  security,  she  could  not  rest; 
and  though  the  night  was  pitchy  dark,  stood  on  the  stairs  of 
the  companionway,  in  her  night  dress,  wrapped  in  a  shawl, 
removing  her  cap  from  her  head,  that  the  men  might  not 
distinguish  her  in  the  dim  ligl  «  of  the  lamps,  alive  with 
fear  that  every  moment  the  vessel  would  strike  on  the  reef 
they  were  nearing.     As  the  hours  sped  by,  her  apprehen- 
sions increased,  until  about  eleven  o'clock,  when,  as  if  to  ren- 
der their  destruction  inevitable,  the  captain  descended  and 
turned  in.     Afrer  a  few  moments,  Mr.  Killbum,  the  mate, 
came  down  in  liaste,  and  her  fears  were  confirmed,  as  she 
heard  him  exclaim,  "  I'll  be  d — d  if  we  are  not  already  un- 
der the  rocks!"     They  immediately  cast  anchor,  and  the 
watcher  retired  to  repose,  with  a  light  heart,  rejoicing  that 
their  frightful  peril  had  been  discovered  in  time  to  prevent  a 
fatal  catastrophe. 

In  the  morning,  it  was  foimd  that  they  were  only  at  a  dis- 


j  , 


;;  :•  ;• 


'I-   •  '■ 


f. 


134 


TEN  TEARS   IN   OREG05'. 


tance  of  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  black  rocks  on  tho 
coast.  Mrs.  White  acquainted  them  with  her  anxious  wait- 
ing in  the  companionway,  which,  as  the  danger  was  passed, 
caused  a  hearty  laugh,  and  Mr.  Kilburn  remarked,  "yes, 
he  saw  her  hair  flying  in  the  wind,  just  as  he  went  to  call 
the  captain,  and  he  supposed  her  terrors  caused  her  to  for- 
get her  intended  concealment." 

Immediately  after  breakfast  they  saw  their  old  white- 
headed  friend,  the  pilot,  putting  out  to  them  in  his  little  boat, 
and  they  received  him  with  joy  and  satisfaction:  it  seemed 
almost  like  greeting  a  father,  so  much  had  his  kindness  en- 
deared liim  to  them.  From  him  they  learned  the  presence 
of  the  exploring  squadron  at  the  islands,  on  their  way  to 
Oregon.  They  were  soon  moored  safely  in  the  harbor  of 
Honolulu,  where  thoy  Avtre  visited  by  Rev.  Messrs.  Smith 
and  Annatrong,  and  were  invited  to  accompany  them  home. 

After  visiting  some  time  among  their  friends,  they  took 
lodgings  with  Mr.  E.  O.  Hall. 

Our  friends  enjoyed  many  pleasant  clIIs  and  visits  frofn 
Commodore  Wiikes  and  Captain  Hudson,  who  were  not 
more  gratified  at  hearing  intelligence  from  Oregon,  than 
were  they  at  receiving  comparatively  fresh  news  from  the 
United  States. 

During  the  stay  of  Dr.  White  and  family  at  the  islands, 
the  gentlemen  of  the  squadron  gave  a  pic  nic  party,  some 
three  or  four  miles  out  of  town,  on  a  beautiful  plain,  to 
which  was  invited  all  the  missioniiries,  American  and  Eng- 
lish cTOSuls,  and  their  ladies,  and  finally,  all  the  principal 
foreign  inhabitants.  It  was  a  social,  convivial  occasion,  tind 
rather  a  costly  affair,  as  probably  not  less  than  eight  or  nine 
hundred  dollars  were  expended  by  the  officers.  The  colla- 
tion was  boun.liful.  and  coi^iposed  of  all  sorts  of  meat?,  dress- 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


135 


ii  >  i 


ed  in  all  sorts  of  styles ;  various  fruits,  both  preserved  and 
green ;  cakes,  nuts,  and  wines  in  every  variety.  The  feast 
was  spread  on  long  tables,  laid  under  a  tent  of  the  stars  and 
stripes. 

Dr.  White  now  negotiated  with  Captain  Spaulding,  of 
Salem,  Mass.,  for  a  passage  to  the  States,  on  board  the  Lau- 
sanne, lying  in  the  harbor.  There  were  on  board,  besides 
himself  and  family,  Rev.  John  Deill,  chaplain  at  Honolulu, 
lady  and  four  children ;  Captain  Couch,  Lieutenant  Pinkney, 
of  the  American  squadron,  Midshipman  Lewis,  and  Miss 
Mary  Smith,  who  had  been  on  a  visit  to  her  brother  at  the 
islands,  and  Mr.  Grimes,  who  sailed  with  them  from  the 
States.  The  gentlemanly  captain  made  ample  provision  for 
his  passengers,  furnishing  himself  with  live  stock,  so  that 
they  had  fresh  meat  twice  a  week  till  their  arrival  in  New 
York. 

Mr.  Deill  being  in  delicate  health,  was  provided  by  the 
munificence  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  islands  with  every  ac- 
commodation, and  with  six  hundred  and  forty  dollars  for  his 
expenses. 

They  sailed  late  in  November — the  same  day  that  the 
squadron  sailed  for  Oregon.  Their  adieus  were  made  with 
much  regret,  as  they  had  for  weeks  been  associated  with 
the  officers  in  pleasant  scenes  and  enjoyments. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  give  a  lengthy  description  oi  the 
voyage,  as  it  was  much  like  the  first,  save  being  less  tedious. 
It  wa^  uninterruptedly  pleasant,  with  a  single  exception. 
Mr.  Deill's  health  continued  to  decline — that  insidious,  fatal 
disease,  a  consurrp+ion,  preying  upon  his  feeble  frame  till 
hope  of  life  was  gone.  It  was  at  sunset  of  a  lovely  day, 
when  they  were  in  40°  south  latitude,  that  he  died.  He  talk- 
ed in  faint  whispers  the  whole  day,  calling  each  member  of 


B^ 


136 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


his  family  to  his  bedside,  and  cheerfully  conversing  with 
them.  He  then  requested  the  presence  of  the  captain  and 
each  of  the  passengers,  and  described  to  them  in  glowing 
language  his  happiness  in  view  of  his  approaching;  change, 
earnestly  beseeching  them  to  prepare  for  their  hour  of  dis- 
solution. When  he  expired,  his  countenance  evinced  perfect 
peace,  and  he  was  apparently  in  full  possession  of  his  mental 
powers.  Probably  no  man  ever  resided  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  more  respected  and  esteemed.  The  next  day,  in 
compliance  with  his  oft-repeated  request.  Dr.  White  made  a 
post-mortem  examination,  and  found  the  left  lobe  of  the 
lungs  entirely  destroyed,  and  the  right  two-thirds  obliter- 
ated, and  the  residue  in  an  extremely  tubercleous  state,  giv- 
ing full  evidence  that  no  one,  except  of  his  calm,  quiet  tem- 
perament, could  have  survived  such  a  length  of  time.  The 
hour  of  interment  arrived,  and  with  feelings  of  deep  solem- 
nity, the  crew  and  passengers  congregated  to  witness  the 
last  rites.  The  captain  read  the  service  wiih  jtiiuch  emotion, 
and  at  the  proper  moment  the  p^  nk  was  raised,  and  the 
beloved  dead  sank  from  sight  into  the  deep  blue  waters. 
When  she  heard  the  slight  splash  of  the  coffin,  as  it  struck 
the  wa\e,  poor  Mrs.  Deill  swooned,  and  was  conveyed  to 
the  cabin,  followed  by  the  tenderest  sympathies  of  all. 

They  had  no  boisterous  weather  at  the  Cape,  but  were 
wafted  swiftly  and  steadily  around,  and  were  once  more  in 
the  broad  Atlantic.  The  time  on  board  passed  very  aoree- 
ably.  They  enjoyed  delightful  promenandes  and  pleasant 
chats ;  and  often  of  an  evening,  the  captain,  or  one  of  the  offi- 
cers, or  passengers,  inviied  their  companions  to  spend  an 
Lour  with  them  when  they  were  regaled  with  nuts,  fruits. 
&c.,  with  which  each  one  had  furnished  himself  in  abun- 
dance.   These  little  reunions  contributed  much  to  the  gen- 


af  ■■■'• 


mil 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREGOy. 


137 


eial  enjoyment,  and  cordiality  of  feeling ;  and  with  these 
and  other  amusements,  they  had  little  trouble  in  dispelling 
the  monotony  which  sometimes  stole  over  them. 

When  within  a  fortnight's  sail  of  land  they  spoke  an  out- 
ward bound  ship,  from  which  they  obtained  a  small  supply 
of  fresh  vegetables,  and  learned  the  election  of  General  Har- 
rison to  the  presidency,  and  other  home  news.  Their  hearts 
now  burned  with  eager  anticipations,  but  their  plasure  was 
checked  as  they  neared  the  coast,  for  there  they  encoun- 
tered a  heavy  storm.  Their  situation  was  perilous ;  for 
such  was  the  violence  of  ihe  gale,  that  the  anchors  dragged, 
and  they  expected  to  be  blown  ashore.  However,  the  stout 
vessel  gallantly  weathered  it,  and  they  were  at  length  safely 
anchored,  and  ready  to  tread  once  more  their  dear  native 
soil.  The  first  person  on  board  was  Bennett's  express,  who 
communicated  the  news  of  the  death  of  Harrison,  and  loss 
of  the  ship  President. 


t.l 


1 


!> 


188 


TEK  TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Trip  to  New  York — Call  on  Mr.  Fry — His  singular  behavior — Intro- 
ductions— Journey  to  "Washington — Re'jeption — Appointment  to  the 
Sub-Agency — Death — Lizette — Starting  for  Oregon — Company — 
Reach  Havana — Separation — Sad  thoughts — An  old  friend — Arri- 
val at  Geneva — Curiosity  excited  by  the  Indian  boys — Reach  Buf- 
falo— Milan — i  i'  •  "'a.  Columbus  to  St.  Louis — Reception — Wil- 
liam Sublet — Kint-  ption  at  Independence — Anxieties — Meeting 
of  the  emigration — Resolutions. 


f'i:i:- ■■< 


V^if, 


As  our  business  is  with  Dr.  White's  adventures  in  Oregon, 
perhaps  it  will  be  well  to  pass  over  the  year  he  now  spent 
in  the  States,  and  give  the  circumstance  which  led  to  his 
return  to  Oregon.  At  the  expiration  of  the  yea:,  he  had  oc- 
casion to  visit  New  York  on  business. 

When  about  leaving  for  home,  he  called  to  bid  adieu  to 
Mr.  Fry,  a  particular  friend.  After  chatting  awhile,  he  rose 
to  take  his  leave,  when  Mr.  F.  suddenly  exclaimed,  "doctor, 
you  are  wanted  in  Washington."  Surprised  at  the  singular- 
ity of  the  expression,  the  doctor  asked  an  explanation,  and 
received  for  answer  the  same,  and  again  the  third  time. 
"Why,  sir,"  said  the  doctor,  "I  cannot  comprehend  your 
meaning,  but  there  are  three  things  certain ;  I  have  no  bu- 
siness at  Washington,  no  friends,  and  do  not  happen  to  have 
with  me  the  funds  requisite  for  the  journey."  Without  a 
word,  Mr.  F.  drew  out  his  purse,  and  handed  him  bills  to  a 
sufficient  amount  to  defray  his  expenses ;  and  then  explained, 
that  there  was  business  in  relation  to  Oregon  matters  being 


M 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


139 


transacted  at  the  capital,  where  his  services  might  be  useful 
and  acceptable. 

After  some  reflection,  the  doctor  concluded  to  accept  the 
proposi  >n,  and  was  that  evening  presented  to  Mr.  Alfred 
Benson,  and  the  eldest  son  of  Daniel  Webster,  from  whom 
he  received  letters  to  Mr.  Webster,  President  Tyler,  and  Mr. 
Upsher. 

He  arrived  in  Washington  the  25th  of  January,  and  met 
with  a  kind  reception  from  Mr.  Lynn,  John  C.  Spencer,  and 
other  heads  of  departments. 

He  spent  a  few  pleasant  days  in  the  city,  and  unexpect- 
edly received  the  commission  of  agent  of  Indian  affairs,  from 
the  secretary  of  w^ar,  under  the  direction  of  the  president. 

He  started  for  home,  and  on  his  arrival  in  Auburn,  about 
thirty  miles  from  Lansing,  was  met  by  a  messenger,  with 
the  sad  tidings  that  his  youngest  child,  a  sweet  little  girl  of 
three  years,  was  dead.  Thus,  while  he  had  been  happily 
engaged  in  his  pursuits  at  Washington,  his  home  had  been 
overshadoAved  with  the  heavy  cloud  of  grief,  and  the  hearts 
of  its  dear  inmates  stricken  with  anguish. 

They  felt  their  loss  deeply,  but  none  seemed  to  mourn  so 
agonisingly  as  Lizette,  who  had  been  the  nurse  of  the  de- 
parted one  from  its  earliest  infancy.  She  had  always  felt 
for  it  almost  a  mother's  tenderness,  and  this  attachment  in- 
creased while  they  were  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  during 
their  voyage  home. 

I  believe  I  have  not  before  mentioned  Lizette.  She  was 
a  native  of  Oregon,  who  came  to  live  with  Mrs.  White  before 
little  Jason'R  death,  and  was  old  enough  to  grieve  deeply 
at  the  painful  shock.  She,  with  her  two  sisters,  were 
early  left  orphans.  Their  mother  died  when  they  were  very 
youncr.     Thev  then  lived  for  some  years  with  their  relations, 


They 


some  years 


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140 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


m 


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■  %■'., 


when  their  fathor,  who  doted  on  his  children,  carried  them 
to  Fort  Vancouver.     Lizettc  was  the  eldest  of  the  three,  and 
her   next   sister,  Angelique,  was  a  beautiful,  but  delicate 
child.     While  at  the  fort,  they  unfortunately  lost  their  kind 
father.     He  went  out  on  a  hunting  and  trapping  excursion, 
and  was  thrown  from  his  horse,  a  spirited  hunter,  and  died 
in  a  few  hours,  and  it  was  thought  by  his  signs,  for  he  was 
unable  to  speak,  that  his  last  thoughts  were  of  his  poor  girls. 
They  were  now  left  alone,  and  Lizette  was  of  an  age  to  be 
capable  of  realizing  painfully  that  they  must  hereafter  look  to 
strangers  for  home  and  care.     Her  greatest  anxiety  was  for 
her  frail  Angelique,  whose  slight  constitution  could  ill  sup- 
port the  fatigues  and  labors  that  could  those  of  her  stronger 
sisters.     But,  through  the  exertions  of  their  friends,  suitable 
places  were  found  for  both  Sophie  and  Angelique,  and  Li- 
zette was  placed  with  Mrs.  White.     She  accompanied  her  to 
the  States,  from  a  curiosity  to  see  the  civilized  world,  of 
which  she  heard  so  much,  expecting  to  return  to  Oregon. 
She  has  heard  that  her  sisters  are  both  married  very  happily, 
and  longs  to  return — which  she  intends  to  do  soon — to  the 
woods  and  plains  of  her  own  beautiful  country,  and  once 
more  clasp  in  her  arms  her  beloved  sisters. 

Soon  after  the  doctor's  return,  he  was  visited  by  three 
young  men,  Alexander,  William,  and  John  McKay,  natives 
of  Oregon,  who  had  been  educated  at  Wilberham,  Mass. 
At  the  time  of  Mr.  Lee's  visit  to  the  States,  they  travelled 
with  him,  as  also  did  William  Brooks,  who  I  have  before 
mentioned.  William  did  not  return  to  Oregon,  but  died 
in  New  York  city.  He  was  a  most  estimable  young  man, 
of  a  sweet,  amiable  disposition,  and  Mr.  Lee  very  much  regret- 
ted his  death,  saying  that  he  was  of  more  valuable  assist- 
ance to  him  than  any  other  person  in  the  mission.     As  they 


5sist- 
they 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


141 


were  all  bound  for  Oregon,  the  doctor,  with  Nathaniel 
Crocker,  Esquire,  of  Lansing,  concluded  to  go  in  company 
with  the  McKays.  Mrs.  White  took  leave  of  them  at  Ith- 
aca, from  whence  they  went  by  stage  to  Havana,  at  the  head 
of  Seneca  lake. 

At  Havana  they  found  Mr.  Medorum  Crawford,  now  mem- 
ber of  assembly  in  Oregon,  who  decided  to  accompany  them 
thither. 

Not  far  from  here  the  parents  of  Dr.  White  resided ;  and 
when  he  embarked  on  board  the  steam-boat,  they,  with  his 
brothers  and  sisters,  and  many  dearly  loved  friends,  accom- 
panied them  to  the  wharf.  They  exchanged  farewells ;  and 
as  the  boat  slowly  pushed  off,  three  spontaneous  cheers  rose 
from  the  multitude,  rousing  the  echoes  from  the  shores  of 
the  beautiful  lake,  as  the  prow  cleft  the  sparkling  waters* 
The  reflection  that  he  should  not  again  see  his  dear  family 
for  years,  if  for  life,  and  the  distance  Avhich  would  intervene 
between  them  and  himself,  haunted  the  doctor's  mind,  and 
saddened  his  heart. 

As  they  were  passing  Starkey's  ferry,  a  signal  vras  hoisted, 
and  the  boat  put  in ;  when,  to  the  doctor's  joy,  his  friend, 
General  Demotte,  stepped  on  board.  In  answer  to  his  en- 
quiries, he  gave  him  an  account  of  his  intended  expedition. 
His  listener  was  so  cheerful  and  interested,  that  his  gloomy 
thoughts  were  partially  dissipated,  till  they  were  near  the 
spot  where  little  George  so  nearly  lost  his  life  six  years  pre- 
vious. There  the  spell  of  reminiscence  stole  over  him,  and 
his  mind  wandered  msensibly  back  to  former  scenes.  George's 
fearful  death,  the  triab  and  changes  which  they  had  experi- 
enced in  Oregon ;  in  short,  the  whole  of  their  hfe  there  seem- 
ed to  pass  in  review  before  him. 

That  night  they  were  at  Geneva,  and  in  a  short  time  the 


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142 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OKEGOK. 


m 


I^^V' ■. 


;|tl-'; 

ipS-:- 

p:;:. 

Ji'i 

news  of  the  arrival  of  three  Oregon  youths  spread  through 
the  village.  Numbers  visited  them,  and  I  need  not  say  how 
much  interest  was  excited  by  these  noble  young  men.  At 
last  they  became  wearied  with  so  much  attention  ;  besides,' 
not  being  wanting  in  fine  sensibilities,  and,  with  Mr.  Crocker, 
retired,  leaving  Dr.  White  to  make  their  apologies  to  the 
remainder  of  their  curious  callers. 

The  next  day  they  started  for  Buffalo,  where  they  were 
detained  by  a  severe  storm,  which  gave  the  doctor  an  oppor- 
tunity of  enjoying  a  pleasant  visit  with  his  friend,  Mr.  Israel 
Chamberlain. 

On  the  morning  of  the  21st,  the  party  embarked  for  Milan, 
Ohio,  where  they  arrived  after  a  very  stormy  voyage.  This 
was  the  residence  of  Mr.  Alpheus  Shaw,  on  whom  Dr.  White 
called,  and  who  entertained  serious  thoughts  of  joining  the 
expedition. 

On  the  route  to  St,  Louis  they  found  considerable  interest 
felt  in  Oregon  affairs,  as  the  following  extract  from  a  letter 
will  briefly  show : 

"  Once  more  the  sweet  Sabbath  of  the  Lord  dawns  upon 
me,  and  I  alive  to  enjoy  its  sacred  privileges,  and  think  of 
those  I  have  left  behind.  To-night  I  am  requested  to  occu- 
py the  pulpit  of  the  distinguished  Mr.  Judsoa,  a  Presbyte- 
rian clergyman.  To-morrow  I  put  out,  taking  with  me,  I 
hope,  Mr.  Shaw,  with  whom  I  have  had  some  sweet  seasons 
of  private  devotion,  as  well  as  of  social  intercoui'se.  One 
day  later,  and  a  pleasant  one,  as  far  as  weather  is  concerned, 
though  I  am  a  little  inclined  to  be  solitary — ^have  been  think- 
ing of  home,  Oregon,  past  and  future,  and  with  the  good 
man  of  old,  I  can  say  in  truth,  '  I  would  not  live  alway.' 
Last  night  all  the  other  appointments  were  taken  up  to  hear 
me  lecture  on  Oregon,  and  as  the  weather  was  fine,  and 


TEN   YEARS    IN  OREO  OK. 


143 


trc veiling  good,  the  noble  church  was  filled,  the  pulpit  lined 
with  ministers  of  all  denominations,  and  I  talked  an  hour 
and  a  half  with  all  my  might.  *  *  *  * 

Mr.  Shaw  has,  an  hour  since,  received  a  communication,  ma- 
king it  impossible  for  him  to  accompany  me. 

Six  days  later,  and  a  sweet  Sabbath  it  is,  indeed,  as  I  am 
in  Louisville,  Kentucky.  A  mile  at  least  removed  from  all 
my  associates,  quietly  seated  alone,  forgetting  the  bright  sun 
that  shines  into  my  apartment,  and  the  verdure  around  me, 
to  think  of,  and  in  this  way  to  talk  with  my  own  dear,  dis- 
tant family.  Thus  far,  our  journey  has  been  prosperous  and 
pleasant.  Two  days  later,  and  we  are  at  St.  Louis ;  found 
a  brother  and  his  family,  in  Cincinnati,  whom  I  had  not  seen 
for  many  years  ;  all  v/ell,  and  extremely  happy  to  see  me.'' 

At  St.  Louis  they  were  kindly  received,  and  every  thing 
in  relation  to  Oregon  heard  with  attention,  as  the  interest  felt 
m  the  country,  by  the  people  of  that  state,  was  deep  and 
growing.  They  had  long  known  the  necessity  of  sending  a 
person  to  perform  the  duties  of  the  doctor's  office,  and  his 
appointment  seemed  to  add  new  impetus  to  their  hopes,  for 
the  extension  of  our  jurisdiction  over  the  territory.  Dr. 
White  here  met  William  Sublet,  who  was  one  of  the  first  to 
discover  the  scuthern  pass  through  the  Rocky  M..> -ntains, 
and  by  his  traffic,  and  adventures  there,  amassed  a  hand- 
some fortune.  The  party  separated  at  St.  Louis,  a  portion 
travelling  by  land.  Dr.  White  and  Mr.  Crawford  by  steam 
boat.  They  met  five  days  after  at  Lidependence ;  the  first 
giving  a  most  amusing  relation  of  their  journey,  not  omitting 
the  ham,  eggs,  and  hominy  they  had  lived  upon,  while  the 
others,  as  is  common  with  travellers  in  that  section,  and  af 
that  season  of  the  year,  were  complaining  dolefully  of  the 
disagreeable  water  they  had  been  obliged  to  drink  on  their 


.  -  '  i 

.;    ■ 
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1j-       J''"' 


i  ■ 


144 


TEN    YEARS   IN    OREOOIf. 


passage  up  the  river.  I  need  not  dwell  on  the  particulars 
of  their  reception,  as  the  warm,  cordial  habits  of  the  ex- 
treme western  people  are  generally  so  well  understood. 
With  a  view  to  increase  their  numbers,  Dr.  White  visited 
Platte  city  and  county,  and  some  portions  of  Jackson,  of 
which  Independence  was  the  county  seat. 

Additions  were  made  to  the  party  till  it  amounted  to  one 
hundred  and  twelve  persons.  While  they  were  coming  in, 
which  they  did  from  Illinois,  Arkansas,  and  Missouri,  occur- 
red the  attempted  murder  of  Gov.  Boggs,  who  was  shot 
through  the  head,  while  sitting  near  a  window,  perusing  a 
newspaper.  It  caused  great  excitement,  and  many,  espe- 
cially strangers  in  the  town,  were  arraigned  before  a  select 
committee  and  examined.  Through  the  testimony  of  one, 
who  had  observed  him  loitering  about,  the  evening  of  the 
attempt,  a  Mormon  was  suspected,  and  arrested.  For  nearly 
a  year  he  was  imprisoned,  when,  as  no  positive  evidence  was 
elicited  to  confirm  his  guilt,  he  was  liberated.  The  poor  suf- 
ferer was  horribly  mutilated,  and  though,  with  a  loss  of  a 
portion  of  the  brain,  after  three  months'  tedious  illness,  re- 
covered. The  particular  reason  for  suspecting  a  Mormon 
was,  that  Boggs  sent  a  body  of  militia  against  this  people 
in  one  of  their  first  engagements,  and  they  had,  therefore, 
sworn  deadly  vengeance  against  him.  Thif:"'  high-minded, 
and  enterprising  gentleman  afterwards  removed  to  Califor- 
nia. 

The  14th  of  May  had  now  arrived,  and  the  emigratrog 
party  were  rendezvoused  at  Elm  Grove,  twenty  n  iles  south- 
west (  f  Independence,  and  on  the  morning  of  th».  15th  Dr. 
White  took  leave  of  the  beautiful  town  of  Independence.  In 
travelling  through  the  adjoining  sections,  together  with  Platte 
County,  he  was  much  pleased  with  the  apparent  fertility 


1. 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREOOIT. 


140 


tmg 

Uh- 

[Dr. 

In 

itie 


of  the  soil  and  variety  of  the  scenery.  He  felt  now  that  he 
was  taking  a  farewell  of  fiiends,  and  civilized  life,  and  his  emo- 
tions of  grief  were  more  poignant  than  any  he  had  before  expe- 
rienced. He  had  not  now  his  family  to  sympathize  with  him, 
and  a  sense  of  almost  utter  loneliness  crept  over  his  heart. 
His  anxiety  was  increased  by  a  visit  he  had  received  from  Mr. 
Sublet,  who  declared  it  his  opinion,  from  only  seventeen  days* 
experience  with  such  a  party,  that  it  would  be  perfectly  im- 
possible for  him  to  take  through  the  country  so  large  a  com- 
pany of  men,  women,  and  children  ;  that  he  could  not  pre- 
serve order,  discipline,  and  good  feeling  among  them,  and 
the  consequences  to  be  feared  were,  that  every  one  would  be 
destroyed,  or  cut  off  by  the  Indians.  It  caused  the  doctor 
great  uneasiness  and  depression.  This  was  the  first  exper- 
iment of  the  kind  ever  made  in  that  direction ;  the  distance, 
as  computed  by  Fremont,  was  nearly  twenty-seven  hundred 
miles,  through  hordes  of  strange  savages.  A  meeting  of 
the  emigration  was  called  to  consider  this  and  other  subjects, 
and  to  make  regulations.  The  following  resolutions  were 
adopted : 

Resolved,  That  every  male,  ovey  the  age  of  eighteen 
years,  shall  be  provided  with  one  mule,  or  horse,  or  wagon 
conveyance ;  shall  have  one  gun,  three  pounds  of  powder, 
twelve  pounds  of  lead,  one  thousand  caps,  or  suitable  flints, 
fifty  pounds  of  flour,  or  meal,  and  thirty  pounds  of  bacon, 
and  a  suitable  proportion  of  provisions  for  women  and  chil- 
dren ;  and,  if  any  present  be  not  so  provided,  he  shall  be 
rejected. 

Resolved,  That  Dr.  White  now  exhibit  to  the  meeting,  to 
be  read  by  the  secretary,  any  document  from  the  war  de- 
partment, in  his  possession,  showing  his  appointment  to  any 
office  in  the  Oregon  territory ;  which,  being  done,  on  motion, 
10 


;)'■ 


i 


I 


140 


TKN   YEARS  IN   OKKGO.V. 


Resolved,  That  wo  elect  a  captain  for  one  month,  from  and 
after  this  day. 

Resolved,  That,  for  the  benefit  of  all  those  who  may  here- 
after move  to  Oregon,  and  that  government  may  be  well  in- 
formed of  the  road,  its  obstructions,  means  of  subsistence, 
eminences,  depressions,  distances,  bearings,  etc.,  there  be  now 
elected  a  scientific  corps,  to  consist  of  three  persons,  who 
shall  keep  a  faithful  and  true  record  of  every  thing  useful 
to  government,  or  future  emigrants. 

This  corps  consisted  of  C.  Lancaster,  S,  W.  Hastings,  and 
A.  L.  Lovejoy.  James  Coates,  was  elected  pilot,  and  Na- 
thaniel Crocker,  secretary. 

Resolved,  That  H.  Bums  be  appointed  master  black- 
smith, with  power  to  choose  two  others,  and  also,  to  call  to 
his  aid  the  force  of  the  company. 

Resolved,  That  John  HofFstutter  be  appointed  master 
wagon  maker,  with  like  power  with  the  blacksmith. 

Resolved,  That  the  captain  appoint  a  master  road  and 
bridge  builder,  with  like  powers. 

Resolved,  That  a  code  of  laws  be  drafted,  and  submitted 
to  the  company,  and  that  they  be  enforced  by  reprimand, 
fines,  and  final  banishment. 

Resolved,  unanimously,  That  there  shall  hereafter  be  no 
profane  swearing,  no  obscene  conversation,  or  immoral  con- 
duct, allowed  in  the  company,  on  pain  of  expulsion. 

Resolved,  That  the  names  of  every  man,  woman,  and 
child  be  registered  by  the  secretary. 

Which  being  done, 

Resolved,  That  this  meeting  now  adjourn,  to  meet  again 
at  Fort  Vancouver,  c-n  the  Columbia  river,  on  the  first  day 
of  October  next,  the  powers  of  Heaven  willing. 


i^W-r 


TES   YEARS  IN    OHKOOK. 


147 


.1' 


r 


CHAPTER  XVIT. 

Departure— Emotions — A  friend — Manner  of  camping— Order  of  the 
morning — Dog  Blaughter—Sickness  of  a  child— Detained  two  days 
— Difficulty  in  crossing  Caw  river — Increasing  illness  of  the  child — 
Its  death — The  mother  becomes  ill — Mr.  and  Mrs.  L.  obliged  to  re- 
turn—Undulating country— Big  Blue — Divide — Rainy  night— Ba^ 
falo — Platte  river  and  plain — Fuel — South  fork  of  the  Platte — ^ChioH 
ney  and  castle — Singular  scenery — Arrival  at  Fort  Laramy— Coaiof 
flour,  etc  — Bridger  and  company — Alarming  inoident. 

As  they  left  their  beautiful  encampment,  it  was  a  noble 
sight.  The  eighteen  wagons,  with  their  snow  white  covering, 
winding  down  the  long  hill,  followed  >  y  the  immense  train 
of  horses,  mules,  and  cattle  of  all  kinds,  their  drivers  walk- 
ing by  their  side,  merrily  singing,  or  whistling,  to  beguile 
their  way.  As  Dr.  White  stood  on  an  elevation,  he  cast  his 
eyes  forward  towards  the  wastes  and  wilds  of  the  savage 
world  they  were  to  traverse,  and  back  to  his  own  loved, 
pleasant  land,  and  it  need  not  be  inquired  whether  his  re- 
flections were  of  a  very  joyous  nature.  He  felt  much  as  he 
did  two  days  previous,  when  parting  with  his  old  friend, 
Philip  L.  Edwards,  whom  he  had  known  in  Oregon.  He  had 
crossed  the  mountains  with  Mr.  T.ee,  subsequently  returned, 
and  was  now  residing  in  western  Missouri.  He  was  greatly 
interested,  and  such  were  his  sympathies  for  the  doctor, 
that,  had  circumstances  permitted,  he  would  cheerfully  have 
accompanied  him  to  the  territory. 

Some  curiosity  may  be  felt  as  to  the  manner  in  which  the 
wayfarers  disposed  of    themselves,  and  herds   especially, 


;i 


II 


148 


TBN    /£4RS   IN    OREGON. 


■■.'(', 


;:H 


WfSi 


through  the  night.  They  travelled  all  day,  steadily  onward, 
till  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  they  halted.  As 
large  a  circle  was  made  as  could  be  formed  by  the  wagons 
drawn  up,  one  behind  another,  and  the  mules,  horses,  etc., 
with  ropes  of  perhaps  fifty  feet  in  length,  attached  to  them, 
turned  loose  upon  the  prahJc  to  feed  till  evening.  Each  per- 
gon  then  built  a  fire  opposite  his  own  wagon,  and  while  this 
was  being  done,  the  females  were  preparing  food  for  cook- 
ing. Two  forked  sticks  were  driven  into  the  ground,  a  pole 
laid  across,  and  tLe  kettle  swung  upon  it.  Those  who  had 
tables,  set  them  out,  while  others  laid  the  cloth  upon  the 
groand,  and  seated  themselves  around,  after  the  fashion  of 
olden  time,  partaking  of  the  food  before  them  with  appe- 
tites not  at  all  wanting  in  keenness.  After  the  meal,  they 
usually  enjoyed  a  season  of  recreation,  sauntering  about  at 
their  leisure,  and  it  was  really  the  mot,-  delightful  portion  of 
the  day.  At  siinset,  the  horses  were  caught,  and  each  by 
bis  rope  fastened  to  a  stake,  at  suitable  distances,  and 
left  for  the  night.  Sentinels  were  then  stationed  at  different 
points,  and  in  all  directions  were  next  heard  the  blows  of  the 
axes  and  hammers  of  the  men,  driving  the  stakes  and  pre- 
paring the  tents.  Most  of  the  women  and  children  slept  in 
the  comtortable,  Pennsylvania  covered  wagons,  and  the  men 
on  blankets  spread  under  the  tents,  with  coats  and  saddles 
for  pillows.  As  day  dawned,  according  to  a  law,  made  as 
in  other  republics,  by  a  majority  of  votes,  at  a  given  signal; 
every  one  rose  to  prepare  for  departure.  The  boys  went 
out  in  all  directions  to  collect  the  teams  and  herds,  which 
often  detained  them  for  several  hours,  as  the  cattle  would 
sometimes  wander  off"  for  miles.  The  first  meal  being  over,. 
the  dishes  nicely  stowed,  and  everything  pronounced  in  rea- 
diness, he  who  had  taken  the  lead  the  day  previous,  went  to. 


TEN   YEARS   IN   OREGON. 


149 


the  rear,  while  the  next  in  order  took  his  place.  This  rule 
was  invariably  observed,  as  it  prevented  any  feeling  that  oth- 
ers were  preferred  to  them. 

They  passed  on  to  the  south-west,  leaving  the  Santa  Fe 
trail  to  the  left,  nothing  out  of  the  common  routine  occur- 
ring, till  they  reached  what  they  afterwards  designated  as 
the  dog  encampment. 

Here,  by  a  two-thirds  vote,  it  was  determined  to  kill  all 
the  dogs  of  the  company,  having  been  informed,  that,  in 
crossing  the  mountains,  and  their  vicinity,  these  animals 
were  apt  to  become  rabid,  as  timber  was  scarce,  and  conse- 
quently water,  which  they  so  much  required  in  the  heats  of 
summer,  on  the  scorching  plains.  This  arrangement  did  not 
at  all  accord  wit' .  the  feelings  of  the  ladies,  and  caused  the 
first  serious  disturbance  since  leaving  the  states.  While  the 
destruction  was  going  on,  the  poor  creatures  would  run  to 
their  mistresses  for  protection,  crying  most  piteously.  Even 
the  men,  while  engaged  in  their  task,  foimd  their  hearts 
were  not  sufficiently  steeled,  to  permit  its  performance,  with- 
out feelings  of  sorrow  and  regret.  However,  the  recollec- 
tion of  a  freshly  related  account  of  the  mad  wolf,  which  had 
bitten  eleven  of  two  encampments,  strengthened  their  forti- 
tude ;  the  death  of  the  dogs  was  preferable  to  those  of  their 
herds,  and  perhaps  members  of  their  families,  and  they  went 
resolutely  about  the  work,  amid  the  cries  and  screams  of  the 
women  and  children,  as  well  as  of  the  vici'ms. 

While  here,  the  child  of  Mr.  Lancaster,  of  Platte  city, 
was  taken  very  ill,  and  they  were  unable  to  move  for  two 
days ;  after  which,  they  went  on  until  they  reached  the  Caw 
river,  a  hundred  miles  above  Independence. 

This  is  a  large  and  not  unimportant  branch  of  the  Mis- 
fiouri,  and,  except  at  occasional  points,  difficult  to  pass ;  and 


.■I' 


if,  (:■ 


ft  ^.-  .1 


i; 


V-r' 


160 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


1 


<-.S'! 


the  expedition  was  much  embarrassed  as  to  the  mode  of 
crossing.  At  last  a  plan  suggested  itself,  which  was  to  lay 
boards  across  the  wagon  boxes,  and  place  ihe  baggage  upon 
them.  In  four  hours  they  had  the  joy  of  seeing  their  eflfects 
landed  uninjured  on  the  opposite  bank. 

Here  they  found  the  child  was  rapidly  growing  worse, 
and  it  was  concluded  best  for  the  party  to  go  on,  with  the 
exception  of  an  attendant,  leaving  Dr.  White  with  the  sor- 
rowing parents.  For  a  day  and  a  half,  their  efforts  to  save 
her  were  incessant  and  unwearying,  but  vain.  The  sweet 
little  one,  their  only  child,  died,  with  no  one  but  themselves 
to  close  its  eyes,  and  compose  its  tender  form  for  burial. 
The  doctor  and  attendant  made  it  a  coffin  of  rough  boards, 
and  mterred  it  near  a  beautiful  tree,  with  a  few  shrubs  and 
bushes  to  guard  the  lonely  grave.  After  all  was  over,  they 
begged  to  be  left  alone,  and  oh,  the  heart-brea^iing  anguish 
of  those  parents  over  their  lost  darling !  They  sat  on  the 
damp  ground,  clasped  in  each  other's  arms,  as  though  they 
would  never  tear  themselves  from  the  sacred  spot,  and  moan- 
ed and  wept  as  those  who  would  not  be  comforted.  At  last, 
in  compliance  with  the  doctor's  urgings,  they  arose  and  fol- 
lowed the  party.  As  they  rode  over  the  plains,  Mr.  Lan- 
caster entered  into  conversation,  and  became  calm  and  con- 
siderably relieved ;  his  manifestations  of  grief  were  less  vio- 
lent, and  when  they  overtook  their  friends,  both  mourners 
were  quite  composed. 

But  this  dreadful  blow,  with  the  hardships  of  the  jour- 
ney, proved  too  much  for  Mrs.  L.'s  delicate  frame,  and  she 
became  very  ill.  With  great  difficulty  they  prosecuted  two 
days'  farther  journey,  when  all  conceived  her  at  the  point  of 
death.  Dangerous  as  were  delays,  from  respect  for  Mr.  L. 
and  his  amiable  lady,  the  company  lay  by  for  three  days, 


V'.'ft'' 


L^Dil? 


TEN   YEARS   I.^    OREGON. 


161 


when  they  were  obliged  to  leave  them,  painful  as  it  was  to 
both  parties,  to  retrace  their  way  to  the  states,  a  distance  of 
one  hundred  und  seventy  miles. 

They  now  pushed  their  way  through  an  undulating  coun- 
try, abounding  in  deer,  elk,  rabit,  and  hare,  besides,  a  vari- 
ety of  wild  fowl.  Having  crossed  the  Big  Blue  without  dif- 
ficulty, they  hastened  on  to  the  great  Divide,  where  they 
encamped.  They  pitched  upon  the  summit  of  the  Divide, 
where  they  had  one  of  the  most  pelting  rains  of  the  journey. 

As  they  imagined  they  might  be  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Pawnee  Indians,  they  stationed  sentinels,  who  found  their 
posts  any  thing  other  than  enviable,  as  they  were  obliged 
to  enduie  for  three  or  four  hours,  severe  drenchings,  accom- 
panied with  strong  winds.  The  dusk  of  another  day  brought 
them  to  the  Platte  in  great  excitement,  for  this  was  a  point 
to  which  they  had  long  been  looking  forward,  as  they  would 
then  soon  obtain  their  first  sight  of  buffalo.  Another  day, 
and  they  were  in  view  of  an  immense  herd.  At  this,  the 
old  hunters  showed  all  the  animation  of  their  profession,  and 
absolutely  almost  danced  for  joy. 

A  portion  of  the  company  imm  i;itely  went  out,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  driving  one  of  the  creatures  to  the  river,  where 
they  killed  it.  All  collected  with  great  curiosity  to  see  the 
first  slaughtered  buffalo,  which  was,  indeed,  a  luige  animal ; 
being,  as  was  judged,  three  times  the  size  of  a  common  ox. 
After  this,  they  saw  numerous  herds,  as  they  passed  through 
an  almost  timberless  country. 

They  foimd  the  Platte  as  had  been  represented,  broad 
and  shallow,  timber  scarce,  and  water  poor.     The  pinit    is 
from  two  to  six  miles  in  breadth,  after  which,  it  becomes  un- 
dulating, and  finally  looses  itself  in  the  high  hills  or  moun- 
tains beyond. 


■'•'< 


152 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


4;> ' 


Theparty  were  some  of  the  time  destitute  of  wood,  and 
for  substitute  used  the  skull  bones  and  manure  of  the  buf- 
falo. 

At  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte,  they  had  considerable 

difficulty.  They  chained  the  wagons  together,  and  the  hor- 
fes  likewise,  to  the  number  of  six  or  eight  teams,  and  under- 
took a  crossing  of  perhaps  thrce-fo"rths  of  a  mile.  The 
men  on  horseback  by  the  side  of  the  teams,  from  the  roaring 
of  the  waters,  now  unusually  high  and  boisterous,  were  obli- 
ged to  rais>3  their  voices  to  the  very  keenest  pitch,  for  the 
poor  creatures  to  hear  them.  The  loading,  as  at  the  Caw 
River,  was  elevated,  and  the  women  and  children  huddled 
on  the  top  of  it.  They  were  beyond  the  reach  of  the  water, 
but  their  pale  faces  and  violent  tremor,  showed  their  ex- 
cessive fear.  Indeed,  it  was  not  without  danger  ;  for  about 
the  same  time,  the  following  year,  several  wagons  were 
here  overturned,  the  effects  lost,  and  many  very  near  being 
drowned.     The  whole  scene  was  one  of  intense  interest. 

They  now  passed  over  eighteen  miles  of  rolling  land,  inter- 
spersed with  thin  clumps  of  timber,  along  the  ravines  which 
intervened  between  the  southern  and  northern  branches  of 
the  river.  At  the  northern  branch  they  found  wood  in  pla- 
ces a  little  more  plentiful ;  game  more  abundant ;  and  the 
flat  narrower. 

In  this  vicinity  they  saw  the  famous  castle  spoken  of  by 
Mr.  Parker,  and  the  chimney  likewise,  of  as  hich  he  did  not  have 
a  view.  The  former  is  composed  of  large  masses  of  clayey 
stones,  piled  together,  and  scattered  about  in  a  manner  re- 
sembling the  ruins  of  a  large  castle.  The  chimney,  which 
they  distmguished  at  nt>,arly  two  days'  travel  from  the  spot, 
was  strikingly  like  the  contemplated  Washington  Monument ; 
a  column  running  up  to  the  height  of,  perhaps,  tw<  hundred 


TEN  TEARS   IN   OREGON. 


163 


h 


feet,  from  the  centre  of  which  shoots  up  a  tall  spire,  very 
much  the  shape  of  a  chimney. 

The  scenery  became  more  and  more  singular ;  fallen  col- 
umns, blocks  of  massy  stone,  and  broken  walls.  Al  inter- 
vals, there  were  collections  and  groups,  having  the  appear- 
ance of  ruinous  castles,  monasteries,  towers,  and  every  de- 
scription of  massive  building.  This  was,  to  the  travellers, 
curious,  grand,  and  picturesque,  and  entirely  dissimilar  to 
any  thing  they  had  before  witnessed.  The  river  forms  an 
elb<"^  at  this  point,  and  the  surface  was  again  more  broken 
as  they  approached  the  Platte. 

A  few  daj  s  longer  of  monotonous,  undisturbed  journeying, 
and  they  arrived  at  Fort  Laramy,  the  great  central  trading 
post  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  miles  from  the  United  States,  and  but  a  few  miles 
from  the  Black  Hills,  supposed  by  some  to  be  spurs  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

The  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  Dr.  White  to 
his  family : 

"  Fort  Laramy,  July  2d. 

"It  gives  me  almost  infinite  pleasure  to  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  writing  to  you,  and  I  am  most  fully  assured  that  you 
will  receive  as  much  pleasure  in  reading  as  I  in  writing. 
*  *  *  I  am  now  in  an  Indian  country,  with  foes 
on  every  hand,  subtle  as  the  devil  himself;  but  our  party  is 
large  and  strong,  and  I  have  been  able  to  obtain  the  services 
of  Mr.  Fitz  Patrick,  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  suitable  men 
in  the  country,  in  conducting  us  to  Fort  Hall,  beyond  the 
point  of  danger  from  savages.  We  have  travelled  three- 
fourths  of  the  way  to  the  mountains,  suffering  no  calamity  in 
property,  even  to  the  loss  of  a  wagon  spoke,  or  crippling  of 


^  a- 


154 


TKN   TEARS  IN   OREOON. 


W-  f 


W'V 


hi 


■t 

i 

It'! 


an  animal,  although  we  have  crossed  the  Caw  and  Platte  riv- 
ers, and  every  stream  of  danger.  *  *  *  The 
expedition  is  a  popular  one,  though  to  me  one  of  great  care 
and  painful  solicitude  ;  and  yet  my  good  health,  surround- 
ing scenery,  variety  of  birds,  animals,  (fee,  tend  to  keep  alive 
my  sinking  spirits,  in  the  midst  of  distressing  cares  and  anx- 
ious business. 

"Esquire  Crocker  wishes  me  to  say  that  he  likes  sleeping 
out  of  doors  on  a  single  blanket,  very  well ;  and  feeding  on 
fat  buffalo  meat  alone,  first  rate, 

"  Ewing  Young  is  dead.  Died  insane  soon  after  we  left 
Oregon. 

**  Missionaries  all  well." 

At  this  fort  they  exchanged  herds  for  fresh  horses,  and 
purchased  materials  for  food — some  at  enormous  rates.  For 
flour,  for  instance,  they  were  charged  half  a  dollar  per  pint ; 
coffee,  tea,  sugar,  <fec.,  corresponding — all  of  which  they 
were  obliged  to  have,  as  many  of  the  party  were,  by  this 
time,  destitute  of  the  articles. 

They  spent  a  week  in  refitting  and  preparing  more  thor- 
oughly for  crossing  the  mountains,  besides  giving  the  poor 
animals  a  season  of  needful  rest. 

At  last  they  started,  and  had  proceeded  scarce  a  mile  on 
their  way,  when,  to  their  joy,  they  met  Mr.  Fitz  Patrick,  who 
was  escorting  Mr.  Bridger  and  a  party,  who  occupied  a  post 
near  the  base  of  the  opposite  side  of  the  raoantalns,  and  who 
was  now  on  his  way  to  the  States,  with  a  large  quantity  of 
furs.  ^ 

Obtaining  Mr.  F.  P.  for  a  guide,  as  was  stated  in  the  let- 
ter, they  travelled  seven  days,  through  a  portion  of  the  Black 
Hills,  which  they  found  the  most  difficult  part  of  the  route, 
thus  far ;  the  heights  being  so  steep  and  rugged,  that  it  was 


4 

»  i 


TEN    YEARS    IN  OREGOlf. 


166 


only  by  the  hardest  labor  they  succeeded  in  climbing  them, 
having  to  attach  several  teams  together,  and  then  applying 
their  own  "  shoulders  to  the  wheel." 

Farther  on  than  this,  they  reached  Independence  Rock* 
with  but  one  circumstance  worthy  of  notice,  and  of  this  I  find 
mention  in  another  letter  home : 

"  Fort  Hall,  August  15, 1842. 

"  Our  journey  has  been  laborious,  but  pleasant.  But  one 
person  has  died,  and  he,  poor  fellow,  was  accidentally  shot 
through,  and  died  in  thirty  minutes.  He  was  a  useful  man, 
and  it  gave  a  dreadful  shock  to  us  all.  The  next  day,  at 
eight  o'clock,  as  there  was  no  clergyman,  I  was  called  upon 
to  deliver  a  funeral  discourse,  near  Independence  Rock,  in 
the  midst  of  the  mountains ;  and  while  I  tj?lj,ed  to  all  the 
company,  who  went  on  foot  a  mile  to  the  grave,  a  general 
weeping  prevailed  among  us ;  and  when,  in  the  course  of 
my  brief,  but  solemn  lecture,  I  said,  *  let  us  pray,'  to  my 
astonishment,  nearly  every  man,  woman,  and  child  dropped 
upon  their  knees  to  implore  divine  blessing  and  protection. 
It  was  the  most  solemn  funeral  by  far  that  any  of  us  ever 
attended,  or  probably  ever  will." 

Independence  Rock  is  of  an  oval  form,  covering  several 
acres,  and  of  a  granite  substance.  It  is  from  seventy  to  one 
hundred  feet  in  height,  isolated,  being  thrown  up  in  the 
midst  of  an  extensive  plain.  It  had  been  the  custom  of  all 
who  passed,  to  inscribe  their  names  upon  it ;  and  accord- 
ingly, a  portion  of  the  pai-ty  did  so.  Dr.  White  and  Mr. 
Crocker  had  finished  theirs,  and  lett  Hastings  and  Lovejoy, 
who  were  doing  theirs  with  greater  care.  They  had  been 
gone  scarce  ten  minutes,  when  a  large  party  of  the  Sioux 
Indians  came  round  from  the  north  side  of  the  rock,  and, 


rr 


156 


TEN   YEARS    IN    ORKGON. 


rushing  upon  them,  stripped  them  of  most  of  their  effects, 
and  made  strong  demonstrations  of  an  intention  to  kill  Love- 
joy.  Hastings  could  not  account  for  their  not  manifesting 
.  a  hke  disposition  towards  him,  otherwise  than  that  he  was 
possessed  of  a  very  dark  complexion,  and  therefore  more  like 
themselves  than  poor  Lovejoy.  They  detained  them  for  some 
hours,  when  a  very  grave  consultation  was  held,  and  they 
concluded  to  advance  towards  the  company  of  whites  with 
their  prisoners.  Meanwhile,  the  party  had  become  extremely 
anxious,  because  of  the  absence  of  their  friends,  and  were 
happy  to  see  them  again,  though  in  the  possession  of  their 
captors ;  for  they  were  now  assured  of  their  being  alive, 
when  they  had  feared  it  was  otherwise.  They  were  con- 
vinced that  the  intentions  of  the  savages  were  hostile,  and 
therefore  the  wagons  were  drawn  into  a  circle,  and  the  wo- 
men and  children  stowed  into  them,  and  every  disposition 
made  for  battle.  They  were  keenly  alive  to  the  awkward- 
ness and  danger  of  their  situation — ^at  least  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  the  States,  and  before  them  several 
hundreds  of  the  most  warlike  tribe  in  the  c  ntry.  They 
were  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile's  distance,  when  Mr.  Fitz  Patrick 
went  forward  to  meet  them,  making  demonstrations  of  peace, 
and  a  desire  that  they  should  stop.  His  repeated  signs  were 
disregarded,  and  they  rode  steadily  onward,  till  nearly  with- 
in gun-shot,  when  they  suddenly  halted,  apparently  intimi- 
dated by  the  array.  After  a  short  pause,  Hastings  and 
Lovejoy  were  liberated,  and  ran  joyfully  to  their  friends,  the 
tears  rolling  down  their  cheeks  is  they  recounted  their  es- 
cape. It  would  seem  that  the  cupidity,  as  well  as  the  fear, 
of  the  savages,  had  influenced  them  to  free  their  captives^ 
hoping  that  the  price  to  be  paid  for  them  would  outweigh 


TKN  VKARS    IN    OREGOK. 


151 


any  advantage  that  would  arise  from  their  detention.  But 
in  this  they  were  disappointed  ;  for  tliey  only  received  a  few 
presents  of  tobacco,  and  other  inconsiderable  articles;  and 
after  annoying  the  whites  for  some  time,  seeing  they  were 
fully  on  their  guard,  left  them  in  peace. 


I:  J 


J- 

•  *  \ 

-   •  !■ 

•  k 


s^ 


158 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

Buflalo  Hunting — Mother  Bennett — Tobacco  scrape — Sweetwater 
Valley — Indian  Village — Preparations  for  defence — Happy  disap- 
pointment— Snow — Great  Divide — Fitz  Patrick's  announcement- 
View — Two  streams— Little  Sandy — Separation — Reach  Green 
river — The  valley— Visit  from  a  grisley  bear — Animating  chase — 
Another  separation — Difficult  travelling — Storm — Soda  spring — Ar- 
rival at  Fort  Hall — Set  off  in  company  with  McDonald — Another 
division — Herding  district — Natives — Snake  river — Drowning  of  a 
man — Fort  Boicc — Burnt  River  Valley — Boiling  spring — Doctor  ob- 
tains a  guide  to  Dr.  Whitman's — Arrival  there — Departure  for  Walla- 
walla — Two  days'  stay  there — Formation  of  the  Cascade  Mountains 
— Petrifactions — A  rock — Bluffs — Fort  Vancouver  mills — Willa- 
mette— Excitement  at  the  Doctor's  arrival  and  appointment — A 
meeting — Its  doings — Preparations  for  receiving  the  reinforcement — 
Meetings  to  establish  a  provisional  form  of  government — A  tribu- 
nate— Disturbance  among  the  Indians  at  Wallawalla  and  Clearwa- 
ter— Call  for  the  Agent's  interference. 


S5  ''^ 


At  this  point  the  emigration  lay  several  days,  supposing 
they  would  soon  be  out  of  the  buffalo  district.  The  hunters 
spread  about  the  plains  in  pursuit  of  game,  and  they  began 
jerking  meat  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey.  This  was 
done  by  placing  a  net-work  of  sticks,  about  four  feet  above 
a  fire,  the  meat  cut  into  thin  slices  and  laid  upon  it ;  and  in 
this  way  both  smoked  and  dried. 

As  they  were  thus  engaged,  the  camp  would  often  be 
thrown  into  excitement,  by  the  men  running  in  in  great  ter- 
ror, stating  that  they  had  been  chased,  and,  in  some  instan- 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


150 


ce8,  overtaken  and  robbed,  by  marauding   parties   of  the 
Sioux. 

One  day,  one  of  these  affrighted  parties  arrived,  and  the 
mother  of  a  lad  of  eighteen,  named  Bennett,  took  it  into  her 
head  that  her  boy,  who  was  absent,  though  in  an  opposite 
direction,  was  in  danger.  She  began  running  about  the 
camp  with  immense  strides — for  she  was  almost  a  giantess — 
screaming  and  hallooing  equal  to  any  wild  Indian,  wringing 
and  clapping  her  hands,  and  tearing  her  hair.  "  Oh,  my 
Philly  is  dead !  my  Philly  is  dead !  Turn  out,  men !  turn 
out !"  It  affected  all  her  hearers  rather  comically,  though 
they  sympathized  with  the  distracted  woman ;  for  her  agony, 
though  droUy  acted,  was  terrible.  With  all  possible  des- 
patch, the  men  armed,  and  were  just  starting  out  to  seek 
the  lost  one,  when  in  walked  Philly,  very  quietly,  bearing 
upon  his  shoulder  a  huge  piece  of  buffalo  meat,  all  uncon- 
scious that  he  had  liked  to  become  the  hero  of  a  tragedy, 
the  effect  of  which  was  now  spoiled,  and  turned  into  a  farce. 

About  this  time,  too,  came  off  another  affair — though  not 
an  isolated  case — more  serious,  but  scarcely  less  comical.  It 
was  in  relation  to  that  very  important  herb,  tobacco ;  and 
between  two  gentlemen,  who,  till  then,  had  been  most  cordi- 
ally attached.  They  were  both  incorrigible  lovers  of  tobac- 
co, which  was  becoming  rather  scarce,  one  of  them  being 
entirely  destitute,  having  for  some  time  been  dependant  upon 
the  generosity  of  the  other  for  supplies ;  till  he,  fearful  that 
his  store  would  be  exhausted,  refused  to  part  with  more. 
This  provoked  the  anger  of  the  refused,  and  they  had  a  most 
furious  quarrel,  which  resulted  in  their  becoming  as  bitter 
enemies,  as  they  had  before  been  warm  friends.  The  de- 
pression and  languor  caused  by  the  scarcity  of  the  article,  in 
the  absence  of  bread  stuffs,  salt,  and  all  other  stimulating 


\:^ 


■V-  1 


160 


TKN   YGARB   IK    OREGOIf. 


^^.  i: 


diet ;  and,  indeed,  nearly  all  articles  of  food,  save  meat,  gen 
erated  much  vvnmgling    and    unhappiness,  and    cn^ated  in 
those  who  disliked  the  "  Virginia  weed,"  a  still  greater  dis- 
gust than  they  had  ever  before  entertained. 

Two  days  after  the  tobacco  squall,  they  raised  camp,  and. 
well  laden  with  jerked  meat,  departed  in  good  cheer.  Their 
route  now  lay  through  Sweetwater  Valley. 

The  vall'y  received  a  verification  of  its  name,  from  the 
following  circumstance : 

A  company  were  once  passing  the  stream,  and  during  a 
drunken  carousal,  emptied  into  it  a  large  bag  of  sugar, 
thereby,  as  they  said,  christening  it,  and  declaring  it  should 
hereafter  be  called  Sweetwater  Valley,  as  long  as  water 
ran.  It  was  a  very  verdant  section,  and  the  animals  impro- 
ved better  upon  it,  than  during  any  other  part  of  the  jour- 
ney. 

They  now  found  themselves  rapidly  approaching  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  the  timber,  not  in  great  variety,  and 
of  stinted  growth.  They  saw  many  appearances,  which  re- 
minded them  of  the  name  of  the  mountains,  and  the  large 
masses  of  rock  they  found,  convinced  them  of  its  fitness, 

Near  thi*;  they  came  in  view  of  an  Indian  village,  contain- 
ing perhaps  five  hundred  lodges.  This  caused  great  conster- 
nation, and  seeking  a  proper  place,  they  halted,  and  formed 
for  defence  as  quickly  as  possible.  They  discovered  signs 
which  they  feared  were  not  of  pacific  character.  Three 
large  companies  of  savages  collected  from  the  lodges,  each 
bearing  in  front  a  Sno  flag,  one  of  England,  one  of  the 
United  States,  and  a  third  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
perhaps  eight  men  abreast,  advanced  in  a  quick,  though 
orderly  manner.  This,  Dr.  White  says,  with  one  exception, 
was  the  most  imposing  array  of  Indians,  the  noblest,  best 


! 


1^ 


TEN    YEAIIS    IN    OKEUON. 


161 


proportioned  men  he  ever  saw.  Himself,  Hustings,  Fitz 
Patrick,  and  Lovejoy,  wont  forward  to  meet  thera,  when 
several  chiefs  separated  from  their  fellows,  and  came  to- 
wards them.  After  a  short  conversation  by  signs  and 
gestures,  they  acct»mpanied  the  white  men  to  their  camp. 
Here  they  entertained  and  presented  them  a  few  pres- 
ents, and  then  started  forward,  they  remaining  with,  and 
escorting  them,  till  out  of  sight  of  the  village,  when  they 
left  them,  with  much  apparent  good  feeling.  So  the  affair 
ended.  There  were,  in  all,  at  least  two  thousand  Indians, 
and  they  might  easily  have  d-'stroycd  the  expedition,  and 
their  fate  never  have  been  learned  by  their  friends  at  home. 

As  they  nej  red  the  great  southern  pass,  the  weather  be- 
came cold  and  damp.  Although  early  in  August,  every 
where  around,  in  spots  obscured  from  the  direct  rays  of  the 
sun,  lay  little  patches  of  snow. 

While  they  were  patjsing  along  here,  Fitz  Patrick  announ- 
ced that  they  were  now  crossing  the  Great  Divide,  and  in 
ten  minutes  would  be  in  Oregon.  Before  them,  on  the  north 
fiide  of  the  pass,  the  mountains  towered  high,  their  summits 
covered  with  snows  ;  and  at  an  interval  of  from  thirty-five 
to  fifty  miles,  lay  another  va:t  chain,  stretcliing  far  away  to 
the  sout:).  It  is  singular,  that  in  this  pass,  sprang  two 
streams ;  one  running  west,  emptying  itself  into  the  Pacific, 
the  other  east,  and,  through  intervening  rivers,  finally  ming- 
ling with  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic. 

While  gazing  through  this  pass,  it  ,,eems  almost  a  Pro/i- 
dential  arranger  .ent,  that  a  poition  cf  ^.he  mountains,  to  this 
extent,  had  either  been  stricken  entirely  from  among  them, 
or  sunk  to  the  level  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  and  it 
would  be  perfectly  practicable  to  construct  a  railway  through 

the  opening. 

11 


■'I 


'f 


I 


if 


SJ;*1.|: 


» 'I' .  ■; . 

¥h  1 


162 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


I  hardly  need  say,  that  all  were  delighted  at  the  prospect 
of  soon  being  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains,  descend- 
ing to  the  Valley  of  the  Willamecte.  Two  hours  later,  and  they 
were  to  the  Little  Sandy,  the  first  stream  of  consequence 
At  which  they  were  encamped,  whose  waters  discharged 
jnto  the  Pacific.  Here  twelve  of  the  party,  who  were  ex- 
tremo.ly  deshous  of  advancing  more  rapidly,  divested  them- 
selves of  carts,  wagons,  and  all  unnecessary  encumbrances, 
and  went  on,  leaving  the  general  encampment  to  follow  more 
leisurely,  to  Fort  Hall,  This  was  not  accomplished  without 
a  struggle,  with  those  who  remained  ;  some  being  grieved, 
and  others  provoUed,  at  being  left  behind. 

After  six  days'  travel,  they  reached  Green  river,  or  Colo- 
rado, throwing  itself  into  the  Bay  of  St.  Francisco.  This  is 
a  beautiful  stream,  but  there  was  some  difficulty  in  fording 
it  with  the  teams,  as  th"  water  was  deep  and  rapid.  After 
crossing,  they  remained  two  days  on  the  banks,  and  found 
the  valley  verdant,  and  rather  pretty,  when  contrasted  with 
the  sand  plains  around  it. 

First  day,  at  noon  camping,  the  teams  being  disposed  of, 
fires  made,  and  dinner  nearly  ready,  a  monstrous  Rocky 
Mountain  bear  walked  into  the  encampment ;  and,  in  great 
agitation,  the  women  and  children  fled  to  the  wagons,  and 
the  men  to  arms.  Alexander  McKay,  true  to  the  ha  oits  of  his 
ancestors,  was  the  first  on  horseback,  rifle  in  hand.  In  this 
he  was  quickly  followed,  and  the  whole  camp  in  uproarous 
confusion.  By  this  dme  bruin  had  tacked  about,  and,  bang  I 
bang  1  bang !  went  the  guns.  He  ran  up  the  river  shore,  when, 
thinking  it  quite  as  sate  he  dashed  into  the  current,  the 
party  after  him  in  full  speed,  to  the  opposite  bank.  Finding 
himself  too  hotly  pursued,  he  again  plunged  madly  into  the 
water,  the  men  following  close  at  his  heels  till  he  reached 


■4 


^ 

t 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


163 


the  shore;  when  the  poor  creature,  utterly  bewildered,  sprang 
into  a  thicket  of  willows  and  poplars,  which  had  formerly 
been  burned  over,  and  was  full  of  timber,  both  standing  and 
fallen.  They  were  determined  to  secure  him  at  all  hazards, 
and  resolved  to  set  fire  to  the  wood,  and  burn  him  from  his 
hiding  place.  Accordingly,  applying  a  brand  to  a  few  dead 
limbs,  the  light  flames  soon  curled  in  volumes  to  the  heav- 
ens. A  circle  was  formed  round  the  clump,  which  was, 
perhaps,  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  by  forty,  every  man 
with  gun  in  hand,  ready  to  lay  the  beast  dead  at  his  feet  the 
moment  he  should  appear.  Followed  by  a  cloud  of  smoke, 
he  at  last  emerged  from  his  no  longer  safe  retreat ;  but  in- 
stantly meeting  his  deadly  foe,  ho  wheeled  to  the  right, 
when,  coming  in  contact  with  another  sentinel,  in  confusion 
turned  his  head  over  his  shoulder ;  but,  General  Scott- like, 
dreading  the  fire  in  the  rear,  he  determined  to  charge  ;  and, 
breaking  the  ranks,  dashed  again  into  the  river.  By  this 
time  the  panic-stricken  crew,  quite  as  much  frightened  at 
bruin's  appearance  as  he  was  at  theirs,  awoke  from  their  rev- 
erie, and  peppered  away  at  him  in  fine  style,  after  he  was 
entirely  out  of  reach.  They  remounted  and  put  after  him ; 
but  he,  impronng  from  "experience  and  observation."  was 
safely  ensconced  in  a  thicket,  from  which  he  could  not  be 
dislodged.  So  his  pursuers  returned  to  the  camp,  rather 
crest-fallen,  but  each  endeavoring  to  console  himself  by 
boasting  how  many  bullets  he  had  lodged  in  hun. 

Here,  as  they  were  no  longer  in  danger  from  hostile  Indi- 
ans, thirty  decided  to  follow  the  other  party  to  Fort  Hall. 
But  they  had  a  tedious  time,  as  also  did  the  wagons  behind ; 
the  baggage,  in  spite  of  all  their  efforts,  becoming  thoroughly 
wet,  and  consequently  heavier,  by  the  hard  driving  rains. 
This  continued  several  days  ;  and,  in  his  thirty  years'  expe- 


'*"'i 


K;"* 


....   :T^  ; 


164 


TKN  YEARS  IN    OllKOON. 


m- 


u 


m  - 


/I: 

I: 


i 


'...    '  '",■      * 


^r-^: 


lience  in  the  mountains,  Fitz  Patrick  said  he  liad  not  witness- 
ed sucb  a  storm. 

On  their  way  they  passed  the  Soda  Springs,  on  Bear  river. 
This  is  a  singular  spot ;  the  scenery  around  it  novel  and  pic- 
turesque. These  fountains  afford  the  purest  soda  water,  and 
in  the  largest  quantities  of  any  in  the  world,  so  far  as  I  have 
learned.  As  nearly  as  they  could  ascertain,  within  two  or 
three  miles,  there  are  twenty  or  thirty  springs,  many,  even, 
issuing  from  the  bed  of  the  river. 

Four  days'  longer  march  through  an  interesting  and  ver- 
dant country,  brought  them  to  Fort  Hall.  This  fort  was 
built  by  Captain  Wyethe,  an  American  adventurer,  in  1834 ; 
and  subsequently  it  was  sold  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
It  is  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  plain,  of  greater  verdure 
and  fertility  than  any  other  known  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try. Wheat  and  potatoes  grow  well,  but  are  very  generally 
cut  off  by  the  frosts.  Their  reception  was  of  the  kindest 
character,  and  they  spent  a  week  very  pleasantly,  with  Mr. 
Grant  and  his  worthy  associate,  McDonald,  who  made  ad- 
vantageous exchanges  of  commodities,  and  afforded  them 
every  facility  in  their  power  for  their  farther  journeying. 
Flour  cost  them  but  half  wh'\t  it  did  at  Fort  Laramy,  al- 
though conveyed  on  horseback  eight  hundred  miles. 

They  had  now  eight  hundred  miles  to  travel,  and  sat  out 
with  renewed  vigor  and  spirits,  in  company  with  McDonald, 
cleik  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Two  days  convinced 
them  of  the  impossibility  of  keeping  pace  with  him,  with 
their  pack  animals ;  so  they  again  divided,  leaving  several 
in  charge  of  them,  while  the  remainder  went  on  with  Mc- 
Donald. 

They  found  the  country  variegated  with  grassy  spots  and 
«aody  plains ;  on  the  whole,  for  several  hundred  miles,  be- 


TEN    YEARS    IN   OKEGOK. 


165 


ing  of  little  worth,  except  for  grazing.  At  Salmon  Falls  were 
large  numbers  of  natives,  who,  as  is  common  at  the  rendez- 
vous all  along  the  branches  of  the  Columbia,  were  rude  and 
saucy.  They  were  deplorably  destitute  ;  but  salmon  being 
plenty,  yerc,  particularly  the  j  >uth,  remarkably  fat  and 
ruddy.  Portions  of  this  tribe,  though  so  healthy  in  appear- 
ance, were  often,  early  in  the  spring,  so  reduced,  that  they 
were  obliged  to  feed  upon  grass. 

In  a  few  days  they  reached  the  crossing  of  Snake  river, 
which  they  found  dangerous  and  difficult.  They  were  obli- 
ged to  go  directly  across  for  a  considerable  distance,  and 
then  in  an  angling  direction  up  the  river,  making  a  long  ride 
before  reaching  the  opposite  bank.  One  of  their  number, 
not  being  sufficiently  careful  to  observe  the  bai',  was  borne 
away,  and,  in  the  midst  of  cries  and  shrieks,  drowned,  in  the 
sight  of  his  friends.  His  implorings  for  help  were  most 
touching,  but  it  was  impossible  to  reach  him. 

Their  next  arrival  was  at  Fort  Boise,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Snake,  midway  between  Fort  Hall  and  Fort  Wallawalla, 
a  place  of  little  trade  and  importance,  except  as  a  stopping 
point  between  the  two  forts.  There  they  recrossed  the  river 
and  passed  on  through  Burnt  River  Valley,  the  most  broke,n 
tract  they  had  heretofore  traversed,  though  destined  to  be- 
come exceedingly  valuable  for  its  grazing  qualities.  They 
next  reached  the  Grand  Round,  a  fertile  district,  and  valua- 
ble for  herdsmen,  in  the  midst  of  the  Blue  mountains,  thirty 
miles  in  length  and  perhaps  half  that  in  breadth.  It  is  the 
opinion  of  some,  that  the  valley  was  formed  by  a  convulsion 
of  nature,  and  was  once  a  lake,  as  there  are  somy  portion** 
of  it  yet  a  marsh,  and  there  is  a  beautiful,  boiling,  circular 
spring,  covering  about  an  acre  of  ground,  the  temperature 
of  which  is  very  agreeable,  except  in  portions,  where  it  ib 


''V.<'  &i 


y:  •'•' 


imf 


I 


f 

i 


1: 

m 

W: 


'1^«i^ 


166 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGOST, 


li      I 


too  hot  for  the  flesh  to  bear.     They  found  several  kinds  of 
clover  and  grain  growing  in  great  luxuriance. 

When  the  party  emerged  from  this  beatttiful  valley,  thoy 
found  themselves  in  a  heavily  timbfved.  mountahious  coun- 
try, where  they  were  obliged  to  spend  a  night  with  scarcely 
a  particle  of  grass  for  their  wearied  and  hungry  animals. 
Two  days  later  brought  them  to  the  foot  of  t'ne  Blue  moun- 
tains, and  glad  were  they  to  be  in  a  country  niore  comforta- 
ble for  man  and  beast. 

Here  Dr.  White  called  at  an  Indian  wigwam,  for  a  guide 
to  conduct  him  to  Dr.  Whitman's  residence,  and  learned,  to 
his  great  joj'  and  surprise,  that  it  was^  only  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant ;  and  he  reached  it  after  a  pleasant  morning's  ride,  over 
a  noble  and  well  grassed  prairie,  dotted  with  herds  of  v>'ild 
horses  and  cattle. 

Though  Dr.  V/hitman  had  been  here  but  a  few  years,  he 
was  surrounded  with  comforts  and  conveniences,  and  his 
house  and  furniture  reminded  his  visitor  of  the  comfortable 
houses  of  the  United  States.  The  visit  was  very  agreeable 
to  both,  as  he  had  much  to  tell  Dr.  White  of  Oregon  affairs, 
and  the  Dr.  him  of  his  two  years'  residence  in  the  states. 

Dr.  White  visited  Wallawalla  after  a  two  days'  stay,  and 
was  invited  to  take  boat  with  Mr.  McDonald,  for  Fort  Van- 
couver ;  and,  in  two  days  time,  was  at  the  station  of  Messrs. 
Perkins  and  Daniel  Lee,  at  the  Dalles.  These  gentlemen 
eagerly  devoured  the  letters  brought  them  from  the  states, 
and  having  been  several  years  absent  from  their  native  homes, 
had  numberless  enquiries  to  make  concerning  those  homes 
But  Mr.  McDonald  being  in  haste,  the  visit  was  cut  short, 
and  they  were  again  afloat  on  the  Columbia. 

From  Dr.  Whitman's  to  this  point,  it  had  been  an  entire 
praiiie  district,  with  no  considerable  clump  of  trees,  much 


Hi  i     \ 


TKN    YBARS   IN    OREGON. 


IQI 


of  it  a  light,  sandy  soil,  and,  aside  from  grass,  very  sterile. 
But  they  now  found  themselves  in  a  well  wooded  countr}', 
which  continued  all  the  way  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

As  a  nearer  and  better  route  has  been  discovered  through 
the  Cascade  mountains,  I  will  say  little  more  of  that  by 
the  Columbia,  especially  as  so  much  has  already  been  said 
and  written  by  travellers. 

After  something  more  than  half  a  day's  sail,  they  arrived  at 
the  Cascades,  where,  according  to  an  Indian  tradition,  the 
mountains  had  extended  across  the  river,  its  current  running 
under  them,  till,  from  some  cause,  perhaps  convulsion,  they 
had  fallen  mto  its  depths,  and,  forming  a  cataract,  and  then 
a  succession  of  rapids,  from  which  it  received  its  name. 
Whether  or  not  the  legend  be  true,  it  is  in  the  midst  of  the 
Cascade  mountains  ;  and  there  are  strong  indications  of  their 
having  rent  asunder  at  no  remote  period.  The  waters,  also, 
appear  to  have  been  dammed,  from  the  fact  that  there  are  great 
numbers  of  stumps,  or  trunks  of  trees — and  many  of  them 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high — standing  in  the  river,  imme- 
diately at,  and  for  many  miles  above,  and  no  where  below, 
the  fall,  perfectly  petrified. 

Here,  as  was  mentioned  in  the  account  of  Mrs.  White's 
and  Mr.  .Leslie's  disaster,  a  long  portage  has  to  be  made ; 
and  Dr.  White  now  passed  the  spot  for  the  first  time.  Near 
this  is  the  isolated  rock,  so  far  celebrated,  rising  from  the 
river  to  the  height  of  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  and  five 
hundred  feet  in  circumference  at  its  base,  and,  at  a  distance, 
in  a  form  resembling  a  sugar  loaf.  The  river  beyond  this, 
is  remarkable  for  its  high,  rocky  bluffs,  and  occasionally 
small  rivulets  shooting  over  them  into  the  river,  with  a  fall 
of  from  five  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet.  It  is  the  projection 
of  one  of  these  points,  which  forms,  what  the  Canadian  voya- 


•?',<.'' 


"i.A 


168 


TEN    TEARS   IS   ORKQON. 


geurs  have  named  Cape  Horn,  as,  in  stormy  weather,  it  is 
very  dangerous  to  pass.  Here  the  Cascade  mountains  melt 
away,  and  a  few  miles  farther  down  are  the  Fort  Vancouver 
mills,  six  miles  only  faom  this  great  establishment. 

After  a  short  visit  with  his  friends,  Gov.  McLaughlin  and 
Mr.  Douglas,  the  doctor  hastened  on  to  the  Willamette  val- 
ley. On  reaching  the  fulls,  where  a  little  village — now  Or- 
egon city-r-had  sprung  up  during  his  absence,  the  news  of 
his  arrival  spread  like  wildfire,  and  he  was  met  and  welcomed 
by  his  numerous,  friends  in  a  manner  very  grateful  and 
touching  to  his  feehngs.  He  found  that  his  absence  had 
not  deprived  him  of  the  friendship  of  those  he  so  much  pri- 
sed. The  excitement,  also,  rose  in  part  from  his  appoint- 
ment, considering  it  a  prelude  to  farther  movements  in  their 
behalf  on  the  part  of  government.  A  meeting  was  imme- 
diately convened,  for  an  expression  of  sentiment  relative  to 
his  appointment,  and  the  report  of  its  doings  was  as  follows  : 


Champoeg,  June  23,  1842. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  citizens  of  Willamette  valley,  con- 
vened at  the  instance  of  Dr.  Elijah  White,  agent  of  Indian 
aflfairs,  for  the  purpose  of  communicating  certain  informa- 
tion from  the  government  of  the  United  States,  relative  to 
this  country,  the  following  business  was  transacted : 

The  object  of  the  meeting  being  stated  by  Dr.  White,  the 
convention  proceeded  to  organize  by  choosing  their  officers. 

On  motion,  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  was  unanimously  elected 
chairman. 

On  motion,  G.  W.  La  Breeton,  v  .s  unanimously  elected 
secretary. 

Dr.  White  then,  by  request,  presented  the  credentials  of 
his  appointment  to  the  office  of  sub-agent  of  Indian  affair;*, 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OUBGON. 


169 


i.] 


of  the  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  was  most 
cheerfully  received  by  the  assembly. 

The  doctor  addressed  the  meeting  at  some  length,  giving 
such  information  as  he  felt  himself  authorized  to  give,  con- 
cerning the  interest  taken  by  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
in  the  welfare  of  this  colony,  and  concerning  the  intcntiouK 
of  the  government  in  relation  to  this  rising  country,  where- 
upon it  was,  on  motion, 

Resolved,  That  a  committee  of  seven  be  appointed  lo  draft 
resolutions,  expressive  of  the  feelings  of  this  community, 
with  regard  to  the  intentions  of  government,  as  communi- 
cated by  Dr.  E.  White. 

Mr.  T.  J.  Hubbard,  Mr.  G.  W.  La  Breeton,  Mr.  R.  Short- 
ess,  Mr.  G.  Hines,  Mr.  J.  O'Neal,  Mr.  G.  Abernethy,  and 
Mr.  J.  S.  Parish,  were  elected  that  committee. 

The  committee  retired,  and  after  a  short  absence,  reported 
the  following  resolutions : 

Resolved,  That  we,  the  citizens  of  Willamette  valley,  are 
exceedingly  happy  in  the  consideration,  that  the  government 
of  the  United  States  have  manifested  their  intentions  through 
their  agent.  Dr.  E.  White,  of  extending  their  jurisdiction  and 
protection  over  this  country. 

Resolved,  That  in  view  of  the  claims  which  the  aborigi- 
nes of  this  country  have  upon  the  sympathies  of  the  white 
man,  we  are  gratified  at  the  appointment  of  an  agent  by  the 
United  States  government,  to  regulate  and  guard  their  in- 
terests. 

Resolved,  That  we  highly  approve  of  the  appointment  of 
Dr.  E.  White,  to  the  above  office,  and  that  we  will  cordially 
co-operate  with  him,  in  carrying  out  the  measures  of  gov- 
ernment in  reference  to  this  country. 

Resolved,  That  we  feel  grateful  to  the  United  States  gov- 


'.;>■ 


''■ ,  ?/ 
J. 


■    t? 


r 


170 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


I!  ;i 


ernment  for  their  intended  liberality  towards  the  settlers  of 
this  country,  and  for  their  intention  to  support  education  and 
literature  among  us. 

Resolved,  That  it  will  give  us  the  highest  pleasure  to  be 
brought  as  soon  as  it  may  be  practicable,  under  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  our  mother  country. 

Signed  by  the  committee,  T.  J.  Hubbard,  G.  W.  La  Bree- 
ton,  R.  Shortess,  J.  O'Neal,  G.  Hines,  J.  L.  Parish. 

On  motion,  it  was 

Resolved,  That  the  report  of  the  committee  be  adopted. 

On  motion, 

Resolved  unanimously.  That  the  doings  of  this  meeting, 
be  transmitted  to  the  government  of  the  United  States,  by 
Dr.  E.  White,  in  order  that  our  views  and  wishes  in  relation 
to  this  country,  may  be  known. 


A  committee  was  appointed  to  make  arrangements  for  the 
reception  of  the  large  reinforcement,  with  whose  arrival  the 
inhabitants  were  much  pleased.  The  new  comers  them- 
selves were  delighted  with  the  beauty  of  the  "  Genesee-like 
Willamette  valley,"  and  the  warm  hearted  hospitality  of  its 
inhabitants.  With  the  latter  subsequent  expeditions  were  not 
so  well  pleased.  This  party,  constituted  of  only  one  hun- 
dred and  twelve  persons,  and,  being  the  first  from  the  states, 
great  interest  was  excited  ;  but  they  afterwards  poured  in 
in  such  numbers,  that  it  was  difficult  to  entertain  them,  say- 
ing nothing  of  the  novelty  being  lost.  There  were  with  this 
party  a  large  number  of  mechanics  and  laborers ;  and  through 
their  means  the  people  of  the  valley  were  enabled  to  extend 
their  plantations,  and  enlarge  their  buildings  ;  and  every 
thing  soon  began  to  wear  an  aspect  of  thrift  and  enterprise. 
The  people  of  the  colony  began  seriously  to  entertain  the 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


171 


project  of  establishing  a  provisional  form  of  government ;  and 
meeting  after  meeting  was  held  for  this  purpose,  which,  from 
their  being  so  many  aspirants  to  the  most  important  offices, 
proved  abortive.  However,  the  next  Jmie,  a  committee, 
consisting  of  Robert  More,  Robert  Newell,  and  Robert  Short- 
ens, were  appointed  to  draft  a  code  of  organic  laws,  to  be 
submitted  to  a  convention,  subsequently  held  for  the  consid- 
eration, acceptance,  or  rejection  of  the  same  by  the  people. 
This  proved,  like  the  others,  a  disturbed  session ;  but,  that 
the  feelings  of  as  many  as  possible  might  be  accommoda- 
ted, they  elected  atribunate,  instead  of  placing  a  single  man 
at  the  head  of  the  executive. 

Late  in  the  fall  of  that  year,  1844,  great  disturbances 
arose  among  the  Indians  of  Wallawalla  and  Clearwater,  and 
solicitations  from  the  missionaries  called  for  the  interference 
of  the  sub-agent.  This  led  to  the  expedition  which  is  noti- 
ced in  Dr.  White's  first  annual  report  to  the  secretary  of  war, 
which  is  here  inserted,  together  with  the  other  three,  sent  in 
during  his  stay  there.  They  are  of  much  interest,  indeed, 
of  much  more  than  I  should  be  able  to  create.  They  con- 
tain a  full  relation  of  the  transactions  of  the  three  following 
years. 


172 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


' 


\r% 


General  excitement — State  of  tiie  colony — Improper  conduct  of  the  up- 
per country  Indians — Character  of  the  W'Qllawallas,  Keyuses,  an«l 
Nez  Perces — Their  disposition  towards  '.'le  niiesionarics — Mistaken 
course  of  the  missionaries — Their  treatment  of  a  clergyman — Dan- 
gerous situation  of  Dr.  Whitman  among  thom — His  kindness — Indi* 
an's  treatment  of  Mrs.  W. — Burning  of  the  mission  mills — 111  treat- 
ment of  Mr.  Spalding  and  lady — Expedition  of  the  Sub-Agent — 
Hardships — Reach  Waiilatpu — Appointment  with  the  chiefs — Mr. 
Spalding's  station — Reception — The  Agent's  trt-atment  of  the  In- 
dians— Public  interview — Speeches  of  McKinley,  Rogers,  and  Mc- 
Kay— Five  Crows,  Bloody  Chief,  and  othcf^  The  Doctor's  statement 
and  advice — Appointment  of  a  high  chief — rVasting — Last  meeting 
— Close — Results  of  Dr.  White's  visit  to  the  Nez  Perces — Laws  of 
the  Nez  Perces — Return  to  Waiilatpu — Keyuse  tribe — Fealhercap— 
Touiti's  accusation  against  the  whites — Appointment  for  another 
meeting — Reach  Wascopum — Success — Doings  of  the  missionaries 
— Catholic  missions — Schools — Country  upon  the  Columbia  anil  itti 
tributaries,  and  towards  California — Limestone,  &c. — Settlements  a* 
the  Willamette — Falatine  Plains — Clatsop  Plains,  &c. — Comparison 
between  a  certain  portion  of  Oregop,  and  the  New  England  States 
— ^Terrible  disaster — Hard  characters — Volcano — Report  of  Mr. 
Spalding — Mr.  Jason  Lee's  Report. 

Oregon,  April  1,  1843. 

Sir  :  On  my  arrival,  I  had  the  honor  and  happiness  of 
addressing  you  a  brief  communication,  giving  information  of 
my  safe  arrival,  and  that  of  our  numerous  party,  to  these 
distant  shores. 

At  that  time  it  was  confidently  expected  a  more  direct, 
certain  and  expeditious  method  would  be  presented  to  ad- 


TKN    YKAIia    IN    ORKOON. 


173 


)f 


dress  you  in  a  few  weeks ;  but  that  failing,  none  has  oflercd 
till  now. 

I  think  I  racntioned  the  kind  and  hospiLable  manner  we 
were  received  and  entertained  on  the  way  by  the  gentlemen 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  cordial  and  most 
handsome  reception  I  met  with  at  Fort  Vancouver,  from 
Governor  McLaughlin,  and  his  worthy  associate  chief  factor, 
James  Douglass,  Esq. ;  my  appointment  giving  pleasure,  ra- 
ther than  pain — a  satisfactory  assurance  that  these  worthy 
gentlemen  intend  eventually  to  settle  in  thi.'^  country,  and 
prefer  American  to  English  jurisdiction. 

On  my  arrival  in  the  colony,  sixty  miles  soutli  of  Vancou- 
ver, being  in  advance  of  the  party,  and  coming  unexpectedly 
to  the  citizens,  bearing  the  intelligence  of  the  arrival  of  so 
large  a  reinforcement,  and  giving  assurance  of  the  good  in- 
tentions of  our  government,  the  excitement  was  general,  and 
two  days  after  we  had  the  largest  and  happiest  public  meet- 
ing ever  convened  in  this  inftmt  colony. 

I  found  the  colony  in  peace  and  health,  and  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  numbers,  having  more  than  doubled  in  })opulation 
during  the  last  two  years.  English,  French,  and  half  breeds, 
seem,  equally  with  our  own  people,  attached  to  the  Ameri- 
can cause ;  hence  the  bill  of  Mr.  Linn,  proffering  a  section 
of  land  to  every  white  man  of  the  territory,  has  the  double 
advantage  of  being  popular  and  useful,  increasing  such  at- 
tachment, and  manifestly  acting  as  a  strong  incentive  to  all, 
of  whatever  nation  or  party,  to  settle  in  this  country. 

My  arrival  was  in  good  time,  and  probably  saved  much 
evil.  I  had  but  a  short  season  of  rest  after  so  long,  tedious, 
and  toilsome  a  journey,  before  information  reached  me  of 
the  very  improper  conduct  of  the  upper  country  Indians  to- 
wards the  missionaries  sent  by  the  American  board  of  com- 


\ 


I  i 


f&^-..-\ 


i 


i 

t 


174 


TEN    YEARS   IK   OKEUOK. 


missioners,  accompanied  with  a  passport,  and   a  desire  for 
my  interposition  in  their  behalf  at  once. 

I  alhide  to  the  only  three  tribes  from  which  much  is  U) 
be  hoped,  or  any  thing  to  be  feared,  in  this  part  of  Oregon. 
These  are  the  Wallawallas,  Keyuse,  and  Nez  Forces,  inhab- 
iting a  district  of  country  on  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries, 
comrritpcing  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  stretching  to  four  hundred  and  eighty  into  the  interior. 
The  Walk  wallas,  most  contiguous  to  the  colony,  number  some 
three  thousand,  including  the  entire  population.  They  are 
in  general  poor,  indolent,  and  sordid,  but  avaricious  ;  and 
what  few  have  property,  in  horse  and  herds,  are  proud, 
haughty,  and  insolent.  The  Keyuse,  next  easterly,  are  lc»s 
numerous,  but  more  formidable,  being  brave,  active,  tem])es- 
tuous,  and  warlike.  Their  country  is  well  watered,  gently 
undulating,  extremely  healthy,  and  admirably  adapted  to 
grazing,  as  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman  may  have  informed  you, 
who  resides  in  their  midst.  They  are  comparatively  rich  in 
Iierds,  independent  in  manner,  and  not  unfrequcntly  boister- 
ous, saucy,  and  troublesome,  in  language  and  behavior. 
The  Nez  Forces,  still  further  in  the  interior,  number  some- 
thing less  than  three  thousand  ;  they  inhabit  a  beautiful 
grazing  district,  not  suipassed  by  any  I  have  seen  for  ver- 
dure, water  privileges,  climate  or  health.  This  tribe  form, 
to  some  extent,  an  honorable  exception  to  the  general  Indian 
character,  being  more  noble,  industrious,  sensible,  and  better 
disposed  towards  the  whites,  and  their  improvements  in  the 
arts  and  sciences ;  and,  though  as  brave  as  Ca3sar,  the 
whites  have  nothing  to  dread  at  their  hands,  in  case  of  their 
dealing  out  to  them  what  they  conceive  to  be  right  and 
equitable.  Of  late,  these  three  tribes  have  become  strongly 
united  by  reason  of  much  intermarriage.    For  the  last  twenty 


TKr    YEAU8    IN    OUKOOK. 


17.5 


ycurH  they  have  been  gen:;rully  wt;ll  disposed  towuids  the 
whitos ;  but  at  the  time  Captain  Ijoniieville  visit«;d  this  dis- 
trict of  country,  he  dealt  more   profusely  "n   presents,  and 
paid  a  higher  price  for  furs,  than   Mr.  Pambro,  one  of  the 
traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  established  at  Wal- 
lawalla,  who  had  long  dealt  with  them,  and  was  previously 
a  general  favorite.     On  Mr.  Bonneville's  leaving,  the;  chiefs 
assembled  at  tlie  fort,  and  insisted  on  a  change  of  tlu;  tariff 
in  their  favor.     Pambro  refusing,  they  seized  him,  stamped 
violently  upon  his  breast,  beat  him  severely,  and  retained 
him  prisoner,  in  rather  unenviable   circumstances,  till  they 
gained,  to  a  considerable  extent,  their  object.     Since  that 
time  they  have  been   more  consecjuential   in    feeling,  and 
shown  less  deference  and  respect  to  the  whites.     On  the  ar- 
rival of  missionaries  among  them,  they  have  never  failed  to 
make,  at  first,  a  most  favorable  impression,  which  has,  in 
most  instances,  unfortunately,  led  to  too  near  an  approach  to 
familiarity,  operating  alike  prejudicial  to  both  parties.     The 
Rev.  Messrs.  Lee  and  Parker,  who  made  each  but  a  short 
stay  among  them,  left  with  like  favorable  impressions.    Their 
successors,  Spalding,  Whitman,  Gray,  and  ladies,  with  oth- 
ers who  r'^mained  among  them,  were  at  last  driven  to  the 
conclusion  that  Indians  as  much   resembled  each  other  in 
character  as  in  complexion.     These  worthy  people,  not  well 
versed  in  Indian  character,  and  anxious  to  accomplish  a  great 
deal  in  a  short  time,  resorted  to  various  expedients  to  induce 
them  to  leave  off  their  wandering,  migratory  habits,  and  set- 
tle down  contiguous  to  them  in  herding   and  agricultural 
pursuits,  so  as  to  be  able  to  send  their  numerous  and  healthy 
children  to  school.     In  these  efforts  they  were  zealous  and 
persevering,  holding  out  various  inducements  as   so  many 
stimulants  to  action,  most  of  which  Avould  have  operated 


176 


TEN    YEARS   IN    OREQON. 


1:, 


If- 


i 

15 


well  In  civili/.ed  life,  but  generally  failing  with  these  Indians', 
aiid  whatever  was  promised  conditionally,  whether  the  con- 
dition wat:  met  or  otherwise,  there  was  no  reprieve — the 
promised  articles  must  come,  and  i-ometimes  under  circum- 
stances sufficiently  trymg,  had  these  missionaries  been  less 
devoted,  to  have  driven  them  from  tlicii"  post  forever. 

The  Indians,  having  gained  one  and  another  victory,  be- 
came more  and  more  insolent,  till  at  last,  some  time  previ- 
ously to  my  arrival,  they  were  not  only  obtrusive  and  ex- 
ceedingly annoying  about  and  in  the  missionaries'  houses,  but 
seized  one  of  the  clergymen  in  his  own  house — without  a 
.shadow  of  provocation,  further  than  that  of  treating  a  better 
neighboring  chief  with  more  respect  than  they — and  insult- 
ed him  most  shamefully  ;  there  being  no  other  white  person 
within  fifty  miles,  save  his  sick  and  delicate  lady.  Soon  after 
they  commenced  on  Dr.  Whitman  ;  pulled  his  ears  and  hair, 
and  threw  off  his  hat  three  times  in  the  mud  at  his  feet.  A 
short  time  after,  the  chiefs  assembled,  broke  into  the  house, 
violently  assailed  his  person  with  war  clubs,  and  with  an  a.^e 
broke  down  the  door  leading  to  his  own  private  apartment. 
U  is  generally  thought,  and  possibly  with  truth,  that,  on 
this  occasion.  Dr.  W.  would  have  been  killed,  had  not  a  party 
of  white  men  arrived  just  at  this  moment.*  Never  was  such 
an  outrage  or  insult  more  undeserving.  He  had  built,  for 
the  express  purpose  of  Indian  accommodation,  a  house  of 
the  same  materials,  and  finished  in  like  manner  with  his  own, 
of  respectable  size,  and  joined  to  bis,  and  at  all  times,  night 
and  day,  accessible.  In  addition  to  this,  they  were  admitted 
to  every  room  of  his  house  but  one.     This  being  closed  had 


I     ;i. 


*  It  is  by  the  eamc  people  that  this  worthy  gentleman  has  so  lately 
b««n  murdered 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OIIEGON". 


177 


like  to  have  C05t  liim  his  life.  He  li.ul  hardly  left  for  the  states 
last  fall,  when,  sliocking  to  relate,  ut  the  hour  of  midnight, 
a  lai-ge  Indian  chief  managed  to  get  into  the  house,  came 
to  the  door  of  Mr.s,  Whitman's  bedehamber,  and  had  suc- 
ceeded in  gelling  it  partly  open  befon;  she  reached  it,  A 
white  man,  sleeping  in  an  adjoining  apartment,  saved  her 
from  violence  and  ruin.  The  villain  (^scaped.  There  wa^ 
but  one  thing  wrong  in  this  matter  on  the  part  of  Dr.  W.  • 
and  that  was  a  great  error — leaving  his  excellent  lady  thus  un- 
protected in  the  midst  of  savage ..  A  few  days  after  this 
the]/  burned  down  the  mission  mill  on  his  premises,  with  all 
its  ap[)endages  and  considerable  grain,  damaging  them  not 
less  than  twelve  or  lifteen  hundred  dullars.  Abo'H  the  same 
time  Mrs,  Spaulding  was  grossly  insulted  in  lier  own  house, 
and  ordered  out  of  it,  in  the  absence  of  her  husband.  In- 
formation reached  him  of  an  Indian  having  stolen  his  horse 
near  the  same  time,  he  hastened  to  the  spot  to  secure  the 
animal ;  the  rougno  had  crossed  the  river  ;  but,  immediately 
returning,  he  presented  his  loaded  gun,  cocked,  at  the  breast 
of  Mr.  Spalding,  abused  and  menaced  as  far  as  possible 
without  shooting  him. 

In  addition  to  this,  some  of  our  own  parly  were  robbed 
opcn'y  of  considerable  property,  and  some  twehe  horses 
were  stolet'.  by  night.  All  this  information,  coming  near  the 
eame  time,  was  peculiarly  embarrassing,  especially  as  my  in- 
btrucl  ions  would  not  allow  me  to  exceed,  for  office,  interpreter, 
and  every  other  pur[)os<',  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  per  annum.  On  the  other  hand,  their  passport  signed  by 
the  secretary  of  war  made  it  my  imperative  duly  to  protect 
theai  in  their  persons  at  least  from  outrage.  I  did  not  long 
hesitate,  but  called  on  Thomas  McKay,  long  in  the  employ- 
ment of  the  Hudson's  I>av  Comnanv  as  exDh>rer  and  leader 


*v  .'•  ■ 


12 


ly  Uompany 


178 


TEN   YEARS   JHf   ORKGOW. 


m 
'  'I 


% 


of  parties,  who,  from  his  frank,  generous  disposition,  to- 
srether  with  his  universal  success  in  Indian  Avarfarc,  lias  oh- 
tained  an  extensive  influence  over  the  aborigines  of  this 
country,  and  placing  the  facts  before  him,  he  at  once  con- 
sented to  accompany  me  to  this  scene  of  discord  and  conten- 
tion. We  took  but  six  men  with  us,  armed  in  tlic  best  man 
ner,  a  sufficient  number  to  command  respect  and  secure  the 
object  of  our  undertaking — McKay  assuring  me,  from  his 
familiar  acquaintance  with  these  Indians,  and  their  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  use  of  arms,  that  if  hostile  intentions  werr 
entertained,  it  would  require  a  larger  party  than  we  could 
raise  in  this  country  to  subdue  them.  Obtaining  Cornelius 
Rogers  and  IJatteus  Dorion,*  as  interpreters,  we  set  out  on  the 

*  Batteus  Dorion  was  iheson  of  Mr.  Huni'a  interpreter,  Pierre  Dori- 
on, who,  with  his  heroic  spouse,  is  so  often  nieationed  In  Irving's  Asto- 
ria. "  As  McKenzic,  Clark,  and  Stuart  were  proceeding  up  the  Co- 
lumbia, near  the  mouth  of  the  Wallawalla  river,  several  Indian  canoes 
put  off  from  .he  shore  to  overtake  them,  and  a  voice  called  upon  iliem 
in  French  to  stop.  They  accordingly  put  to  shore,  and  were  joined  Lj 
those  in  the  canoes.  To  their  surprise,  they  recognized  in  the  person 
who  had  hailed  them,  the  Indian  v/ife  of  Pierre  Dorion, accompanied 
by  her  two  children.  She  had  a  story  to  tell ;  involving  the  fate  of  sev- 
eral of  our  unfortunate  adventurers.  Mr.  John  Reed,  the  Hibernian^ 
it  will  be  remembered,  had  been  detached  during  the  summer  to  Snake 
River.  This  party  consisted  of  four  Canadians,  together  with  two 
hunters,  Pierre  Dorion  and  Pierre  Dclaunay  ;  Dorion,  as  usual,  being 
accompanied  by  his  wife  andchildien.  The  objects  of  thia  expedition 
were  two-fold,  to  trap  beaver,  and  to  search  for  the  three  hunters,  Rob- 
inson, Iloback  and  Rczner.  In  the  course  of  the  autumn,  Reed  lost 
one  man,  by  death ;  another  one,  who  was  of  a  sullen,  perverse  di.'^po- 
fllticin,  left  in  a  moody  fit,  and  was  never  heard  of  afterwards.  Tb« 
number  of  his  party  was  not,  however,  reduced  by  these  losses,  as  the 
three  hunters,  Robinson,  Hoback  and  Reznerhid  joined  it.  Reed  now 
built  a  house  on  Snake  liver,  for  their  winter  quarters;  which  beinc 


A 


TEK    YEARS    IN   OREGON. 


179 


15th  of  Novomber — as  McKay  justly  denominated  it— 
our  voyage  of  misery,  having  a  journey,  by  water  and  land, 
of  not  less  than  nine  liundred  and  tifty  miles,  principally  over 
open  plains,  cov  ered  with  snov/,  and  several  times  under  tbe 

■completed,  the  pa'tyset  about  trapping.     Rezner,  Le  Clcrc,  and  Pierre 
Dorion,  went  about  five   days'  journey  from  the  wintering  house,  tea 
part  of  the  country  well  atockej  with  beaver.     Herelhry  put  up  a  hut 
ond  proceeded  Jo  trap  with  great  success.     While  the  men  were  out 
hunting,  Pierre  Dorion's  wife  "emained  at  home  to  dress  the  skins  and 
prepare  the  meals.     She  was  thus  employed  one  evening,  about  the  be- 
ginning of  January,  cooking  the  supper  of  the  hunters,  when  she  heard 
footsteps,  and  Le  Clerc  staggered,  pale  and  bleeding,  into  the  hut.     He 
informed  her  that  a  party  of  sa\'age3  iiad  surprised  tkem,  while  at  their 
traps,  and  killed  Rezner  and  her  l.^'band.     He  had  barely  strength  IHit 
(o  give   this  information,  when  he  sank  upon  the  ground.     The  poor 
woman  saw  that  the  only  chance  for  life  was  instani  flight,  but,  in  thia 
exigency,  showed  that  presence  of  mind,  and   force  of  character  for 
which  she  had  frequently heen  noted.    With  great  difficulty,  she  caugh' 
two  of  the  horses  belonging  to  the  party  ;  wh<n  collecting  her  clothep, 
and  «  small  quantity  of  beaver  meat   and   dried  salmon,  hhe  packed 
them  upon  one  of  the  horses,  and  lielped  the  wounded  man  to  motrnt 
iipon  it.     On  the  other  horse  she  meunted  with  her  two  children,  and 
hurried  away  from  this  dangerous  neighborhood,  directing  her  flight  for 
Mr.  Reed's  establishment.     On  the  third  day  sLe  descried  a  number  of 
Indians  on  horseback,  proceeding  in  an  easterly  direction.     She  imnw- 
diately  dismounted  with  her  children,  and  helped  Le  Clerc  likewise  lo 
dismount,  and  all  concealed  themselves.     Fortunately  they  escaped  the 
sharp  eyes  of  the  savages,  but  had  to  proceed  with  the  utmost  caution. 
That  I'ight,  they  slept  without  iire  or  water  ;  she  managed  to  keepbei 
children  warm  in  her  arms  ;  but  before  morning,  poor  Le  Clerc  died 
With  the  dawn  of  day,  the  resolute  woman  resumed  her  course,  and  on 
the  fouth  day,  reached  the  house  of  Mr.  Reed.     It  was  deserted,  and 
all  around  were  marks  of  blood  and  signs  of  a  furious  niasvacre.     Not 
doubting  that  Mr.  Reed  and  his  party  had  all  fallen  victims,  she  twned 
with  r-esh  horror  from  the  spot.     P'or  two  days  she  continued  hurrying 
forwaj'd,  reac'y  to  sink  for  want  of  food,  but  more  Bolicitou.s  about  her 


•<*s 


180 


TEN  YEAIIS  IN    OhEGON. 


m 

l'.-i'- 

^ 

mm 

.'S 

if- 

'■I 

> 

1: 

•   "fv 

!  'vl 


:|.ir^ 

i.i 

wl' ■'•;'/               ^'i 

Pi'^K'il         •'        '■ 

H 

H^^H 

k 

H^ 

^^H 

I  (5  • 

]f 


n 


necessity  of  spcndini^  tlio  night  wilbout  wood  or  fire,  otlicr 
than  what  was  made  by  a  small  growth  of  wild  sage,  hardly 
Bufficicnt  to  boil  the  tea  hettlc.  The  gentlemen,  as  wc  called 
at  Fort  Vancou^er,  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  make 
tlie  journey  comfortable,  but  evidently  felt  anxious  concern- 
children  than  herself.  At  length  she  reached  a  range  of  ihc  Rocky 
Mountains,  near  the  upper  part  of  the  Wallawalla  river.  Here  she 
ch  'fc  a  wild,  lonely  ravine,  a?  her  place  of  winter  refuge.  She  had 
fortunately  a  bufialo  robe  and  throe  deer  skins  ;  of  those,  and  pine  bark 
and  cedar  branches,  she  constructed  a  lude  wigwam,  which  she  pitched 
beside  a  mountain  spring.  Having  no  otlicr  food,  she  killed  two  hor- 
aea,  and  smoked  their  flesh.  The  skins  aided  to  cover  her  hut.  Here 
she  dr.igged  out  the  winter,  wiih  no  other  cinpany  than  her  two  chil- 
Jren.  Towards  the  middle  of  March,  her  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted. She  therefore  picked  up  the  remainder,  slung  it  on  her  back, 
and  with  her  helpless  little  ones,  set  out  again  on  her  wanderings 
Crossing  the  ridge  of  mountains,  she  descended  to  the  banks  of  the 
Wallawalla,  and  kept  along  ihem  uniil  she  arrived  where  that  river 
throws  itself  into  the  Columbia.  She  was  hospjialdy  received  and  en- 
tertained by  the  Wal  wadu's,  and  had  been  nearly  two  weeks  among 
them  when  the  two  canoee  passed.  On  being  interrogated,  she  could 
assign  no  reason  for  this  murderous  attack  of  thes'ivages;  it  appeared 
to  be  perfectly  wanton  and  unprovoked.  Some  of  the  Astorians  sup» 
posed  it  an  act  of  butchery  by  a  roving  band  of  Blackfeet,  others,  how- 
ever, and  with  greater  probability  of  correctness,  have  ascribed  it  to  the 
tribe  of  Piercednosed  Indians,  in  rev  nge  for  the  death  of  a  comrade, 
hanged  by  order  of  Mr  Clarke.  If  so,  it  shows  that  these  sudden  and 
appaiently  wanton  outbreakings  of  sanguinary  violence  on  the  part  of 
the  savages,  have  otien  s.  me  previous,  though  perhups  remote  provoca- 
tion."— Irving'K  Astoria. 

Dr.  White  saw  tliis  woman  living  conifortTbly  in  the  Willamette 
valley,  with  a  Canadian  Frenchman,  to  whom  she  had  long  been  mar- 
ried. She  presented  him  several  pairs  of  moccasins,  very  neatjy  execu- 
ted, after  the  most  approved  fashion  of  her  tribe.  Ha  was  \tiy  much 
uDpretised  with  her  noble,  commanding  bearing. 


U 


TEN    TEARS    IN    OUKOON. 


181 


ing  our  safety.  We  readied  the  Dalles,  some  two  hundr  .'d 
and  twenty  mik  i  fio.n  tlie  Pacific,  0:1  the  24ih  having  boea 
deatained  by  wind,  spent  several  days  with  the  Methodist 
mission  families,  who  welco-ned  us  joyfully,  and  made  our 
stiiy  agreeable  and  refreshing-.  Mrs.  Dr.  Wliitman  was  here, 
having  found  it  improper  and  unsafe  to  remain  where  she 
had  been  so  lately  grossly  insulted.  Ilcr  noble  and  intellec- 
tual mind  and  spirit  -were  much  depressed,  and  her  heallh 
suffering  ;  but  still  entertaining  for  the  people  or  Indiars  of 
her  charge  the  feelings  of  a  mother  towards  ungrat>^ful  il- 
dren  ;  our  visit  encouraged  her.  We  proci.red  horses  and 
travelled  by  land  to  Wallawaila,  onchund)ed  and  forty  miles 
above,  reaching  the  Hudson's  T3ay  establishment  on  the  30th. 
Mr.  McKinley,  the  gentleman  in  charge,  to  whom  the  mis- 
sionaries are  indebted  for  many  kind  oflices  in  this  isolated 
portion  of  the  earth,  resolved  to  make  it  a  common  cause, 
and  stand  or  fall  with  us.  We  reached  Waiilat])u,  the  sta- 
tion of  Dr.  Whitman,  the  day  following,  and  were  shocked 
and  pained  at  beholding  the  sad  work  of  savage  destruction 
upon  this  hitherto  neat  and  commodious  little  establishment. 
The  Indians  in  the  vicinity  were  few  and  .shy.  I  thought 
best  to  treat  them  with  reserve,  but  made  an  appointment 
to  meet  the  chiefs  and  tribe  on  my  return.  Left  the  day 
following  for  the  station  of  Mr.  Spaulding  among  the  Ncz- 
percs,  some  one  hundred  and  twenty  or  one  hundred  ami 
thirty  miles  from  Waiilaptu ;  reached  it  on  the  3rd  of  De- 
cember, after  a  rather  pleasant  journey  over  a  most  verdent 
and  delightfid  grazing  district,  well  Avatered,  but  badly  tim 
bt^red.  Having  sent  a  private  despatch  in  advance  they  had 
conveyed  the  inl,(^lligenc<}  to  the  Indians,  many  of  whom 
were  collected.     The  chiefs  met  us  with  civility,  gravity  and 


mi 


182 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


im 


'^1 


U'  ■' 


i^ 


■4     ., 


dignified  reserve,   but  the  missionaries  with  joyful  counte- 
nances and  glad  hearts. 

Seldoni  >vas  a  visit  of  an  Indian  agent  more  desired,  nor 
could  one  be  more  necessary  and  proper.  As  they  were  col- 
lecting, we  liad  no  meeting  forcigbt-and-forty  hours;  in  the 
mean  time,  through  my  able  interpreter  and  McKay,  I  man- 
aged to  secure  confidence  c.nd  prepare  the  way  to  a  good  un- 
destanding  ;  visited  and  prescribed  for  their  sick,  made  a 
short  call  at  each  of  their  chief's  lodges,  spent  a  season  in 
school,  hearing  them  read,  spell,  and  sing  ;  at  the  same  time 
examining  their  printing  and  writing,  and  can  hardly  avoid 
here  saying  I  Avas  happily  surprised  and  greatly  interested 
at  seeing  such  numbers  so  far  advanced  and  so  eagerly  pur- 
suing after  knowledge.  The  next  day  I  visited  their  little 
plantations,  rude  to  be  sure,  but  successfully  carried  on,  so 
far  as  raising  the  necessaries  of  life  were  concerned  ;  and  it 
was  most  gratifying  to  witness  their  fondness  and  care  for 
their  little  herds,  pigs,  poultry,  etc.  The  hour  arriving  for 
ihe  public  interview,  I  was  ushered  into  the  presence  of  the 
assembled  cliiefs,  to  the  number  of  twenty-two,  with  some 
lesser  dignitaries,  and  a  large  number  of  the  common  peo- 
ple. The  gravity,  fixed  attention,  and  decorum,  of  these 
sons  of.the  forest,  was  calculated  to  make  for  them  a  most 
favorable  impression.  I  stated  explicitly,  but  briefly  as  pos- 
sible, the  design  of  our  great  chief  in  sending  me  to  this 
country,  and  the  present  object  of  my  visit;  assured  them 
of  the  kind  intentions  of  our  government,  and  the  §ad 
consequences  that  would  ensue  to  any  white  man,  from  this 
lime,  who  should  invade  their  rights,  by  stealing,  murder, 
selling  them  damaged  for  good  articles,  or  alcohol,  of  which 
they  are  not  fond.  Without  threatening,  I  gave  them  to  un- 
derstand how  highly  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Spalding  were  prized  by 


i  / 


T£N   TEARS   IN    OUEQON. 


183 


the  numerous  wliites,  and  with  what  pleasure  the  great  chief 
gave  them  a  passport  to  encouriige  them  to  come  here  to  teach 
them  what  they  were  now  so  diligently  employed  in  obtain- 
sDg,  in  order  that  they  and  their  children  might  become  good, 
wise  and  happy.     After  me,  Mr.   McKinley,  the  genteraan 
in  charge  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  establishmern  it  Wallawalla, 
spoke  concisely,  but  very  properly  ;  alluded  1.0  his  residence 
of  some  years,  and  of  the  good  understanding  that  had  gen- 
erally existed  between  them,  and  of  the  happiness  that  he 
felt  that  one  of  his  brothers  had  come  to  stand  and  judge 
impartially  between  liirn,  them,  and  whites  and  Indians  in 
general ;  declared    openly   and  frankly,  that  Boston,  King 
George,  and  French,  were  all  of  one  heart  in  this  matter,  at* 
tJiey,  the  Keyuse  and  Wallawallas  should  be  ;  flattered  them 
delicately  in  view  of  their — to  him — imexpccted  advance- 
ment in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  resumed  his  seat,  having 
made  a  most  favorable  impression.     Next  followed  Mr.  Ro- 
gers, the  interpreter,  who,  years  before,  had  been  employed 
successfully  as  linguist  in  this  section  of  the  country  by  the 
American  board  of  commissioners,  and  was  ever  a  general 
favorite  with  the  people. 

He  adverted  sensibly  and  touchingly  to  past  difficulties 
between  whites  and  Indians  east  of  the  mountains,  and  the 
sivd  consequences  to  every  tribe  who  had  resisted  honorable 
measures  proposed  by  the  more  numerous  whites  ;  and  hav- 
ing, as  he  hoped,  secured  their  confidence  in  my  favor,  ex- 
horted them  feelingly  to  adopt  such  measures  as  should  be 
thought  proper  for  their  benefit. 

Next,  and  lastly,  arose  Mr.  McKay,  and  remarked  with  a 
manner  peculiar  to  himself,  and  evidently  with  some  emo- 
tion :  I  appear  among  you  as  one  arisen  from  the  long  sleep 
of  death.     You  know  of  the  violent  death  of  my  father  on 


184 


TEN    YEAUS   IN   OREf.ON. 


i;? 


:4*. 


board  the  ship  Tonquin,  who  was  one  of  the  partners  of  the 
Astor  company  ;  I  was  but  a  youth  ;  ^hco.  which  time,  till 
the  last  five  years,  1  have  been  a  wand(irer  througli  these 
wilds;  none  of  you,  or  any  Indians  of  this  country,  having 
travelled  so  constantly  or  extensively  as  1  have,  and  yet  J 
saw  you  or  your  fathers  onee  or  more  annually,  1  have  min- 
gled with  you  in  bloody  wars  and  profound  peace  ;  I  have 
stood  in  your  midst,  surrounded  by  plenty,  and  suffered  with 
you  in  seasons  of  scarcity  ;  Ave  have  had  our  days  of  wild 
and  joyous  sports,  and  i-ights  of  watching-  and  deep  con- 
cern, till  I  vanished  from  among  men,  left  the  Hudson's  Baj 
com]!any,  silently  retired  to  my  plantation,  and  there  con- 
lined  myself.  There  I  was,  still,  silent,  and  as  one  dead  ; 
the  voice  of  my  brother,  at  last,  aroused  me ;  I  spoke  and 
looked  ;  I  mounted  my  horse — am  here.  I  am  glad  it  is  so. 
I  come  at  the  call  of  the  great  chief,  the  chief  of  all  the  whites 
in  the  country,  as  well  as  the  Indians,  the  son  of  the  mighty 
chief  whose  children  are  more  numerous  than  the  stars  in 
the  heavens  or  the  leaves  of  the  forest.  Will  you  hear,  and 
be  advised  ?  You  will.  Your  wonderful  improvements  in 
the  arts  aiui  sciences  prove  you  are  not  fools.  Surely  you 
will  hear  ;  but  if  disposed  to  close  your  ears  and  stop  thera, 
they  will  be  torn  open  wide,  and  you  will  be  made  to  hear. 
This  speech  from  Mr.  McKay,  whose  mother  is  a  native, 
though  the  wife  of  Gov.  McLaughlin,  had  a  singularly  happy 
influence,  and  opened  the  way  for  expressions  on  the  other 
side,  from  which  there  had  not  hitherto  been  a  sentence  ut- 
tered. First  aiose  Five-Crows,  a  wealthy  chief  of  forty- 
five,  neatly  attired  in  English  costume.  lie  stepped  gravely 
but  modestly  forward  to  the  table,  remarking :  It  does  not 
become  me  to  speak  first;  I  am  but  a  youth,  as  yet,  when 
compared  to  many  of   these  my   fathers;    but  my  feclincrs 


tv- 


TKN    YEAlia    IN    ORKCiON". 


18A 


urge  me  to  arise  and  say  ^Thilt  I  iini  ab«)ut  to  utter  in  a  very 
few  words.  I  am  glad  the  cl.ief  has  come;  I  have  listened 
to  what  has  been  said  ;  have  great  hopes  that  biightcr  days 
are  before  us,  because  I  see  all  the  whites  arc  united  in  this 
matter  ;  we  have  much  wanted  some  thing ;  hardly  kncv 
what ;  been  groping  and  feeling  for  it  in  confusion  and  dark 
ness.     Here  it  is.     Do  wc  sec  it,  and  shall  we  accept  ? 

Soon  the  Bloody  Chief  arose — not  less  than  ninety  years 
old — and  said  :  I  speak  to-day,  perhaps  to-morrow  I  die.  I 
am  the  oldest  chief  of  the  tribe ;  was  the  high  chief  when 
your  great  brothers,  Lewis  and  Clarke,  visited  this  coun- 
try ;  they  visited  me,  and  honored  me  with  their  friendship 
and  counsel.  I  showed  them  my  numerous  wounds  received 
in  bloody  battle  with  the  Snakes ;  they  told  me  it  was  not 
good,  it  was  better  to  be  at  peace  ;  gave  me  a  flag  of  truce ; 
I  held  it  up  high  ;  we  met  and  talked,  but  never  fought 
again.  Clr-l.e  pointed  to  this  day,  to  you,  and  this  occasion  ; 
we  have  long  waited  in  expectation  ;  sent  three  of  our  sons 
to  Red  river  school  to  prepare  for  it ;  two  of  them  sleep  with 
their  fathers  ;  the  other  is  here,  and  can  be  ears,  mouth,  and 
pen  for  us.  I  can  say  no  more ;  I  am  (luickly  tired  ;  my 
voice  and  limbs  tremble.  I  am  glad  I  live  to  see  you  and 
this  day,  but  I  shall  soon  be  still  and  c^uiet  in  death. 

The  speech  was  affecting.  Six  more  spoke,  and  the  meet- 
ing adjourned  three  hours.  Met  at  the  hour  appointed.  All 
the  chiefs  and  principal  men  being  jjresent,  stated  delicately 
the  embarrassed  relation  existing  beiwecn  whites  and  Indi- 
ans in  this  upper  country,  by  reason  of  a  want  of  proper  or 
ganization,  or  the  chief's  authority  not  being  propeily  re- 
garded; alluded  to  some  cases  of  improprieties  of  young 
men,  not  sanctioned  bv  the  chiefs  and  old  men  ;  and  where 
the  chiefs  had  been  in  the  wrong,  hoped  it  had  principally 


V 


I,  ■ 

4; 


186 


TKN    TEARS    IN    OREGON. 


ifectly  undcrstandi 


ih  other's  1 


anguagc 


m 


'iw-  j' ;;,}, 


arisen  irom  impc 
or  some  other  excusable  cause,  especially  so  far  as  they  were 
concerned.  Advised  them,  as  they  were  now  to  some  ex- 
tent prepared,  to  choose  one  high  chief  of  the  tribe,  and 
acknowledge  him  as  such  by  universal  consent ;  all  the  other 
subordinate  chiefs  being  of  e(jual  power,  and  so  many  helps 
to  carry  out  all  his  lawful  loquirements,  which  they  were  at 
once  to  have  in  writing,  in  their  own  language,  to  regulate 
their  intercourse  with  Avhites,  and  in  most  cases  with  them- 
selves. I  advised  that  each  chief  have  five  men  as  a  body 
guard,  to  execute  all  their  lawful  commands.  They  desired 
to  hear  the  laws.  I  proposed  them  clau.«e  by  clause,  leav- 
ing them  as  free  to  reject  as  to  accept.  They  were  greatly 
pleased  with  all  proposed,  but  wished  a  heavier  penalty  to 
some,  and  suggested  the  dog  law,  which  was  annexed.  We 
then  left  them  to  choose  the  high  chief,  assuring  them  if  they 
did  this  unanimously  by  the  following  day  at  ten,  we  would 
all  dine  together  with  the  chief  on  a  fat  ox  at  three,  himself 
and  myself  at  the  head  of  the  table ;  this  pleased  them  well, 
and  they  set  about  it  in  good  cheer  and  high  hopes  ;  but 
this  was  a  new  and  delicate  task,  and  they  soon  saw  and  felt 
it ;  however,  all  agreed  that  I  must  make  the  selection,  and 
HO  reported  two  hours  after  we  left  the  council.  Assuring 
them  this  w^ould  not  answer;  that  they  must  select  their  own 
chief,  they  seemed  somewhat  puzzled,  and  Avishcd  to  know 
if  it  would  be  proper  to  counsel  with  Messrs.  McKay  and  Ro- 
gers. On  telling  them  that  it  was  not  improper,  they  felt  a 
little  relieved,  and  worked  poor  Rogers  and  McKay  severely 
for  many  hours  ;  but  altogothcr  at  length  figured  it  out,  and 
in  great  good  humor,  so  reported  at  ten,  appointing  P^lhs 
high  chief.  He  is  the  one  alluded  to  by  the  Bloody  Chief, 
a  sensible  man  of  thirty-two,  reading,  speaking,  and  writing 


'^i"/-'i 


TBK  TSARS   IN    OREOOK. 


187 


the  English  lanirua^o  tolerably  well ;  has  a  fine  small  jdanta- 
tion,  a  few  sheep,  some  neat  stock,  and  no  less  than  cloven 
hundred  head  of  horses.  Then  came  on  the  feasting  ;  our 
ox  was  fat,  and  cooked  and  served  up  in  a  manner  reminding 
one  of  the  days  of  yore  ;  we  ate  beef,  corn,  and  peas  to  our 
till,  and  in  good  cheer  took  the  pipe,  when  Rev.  Mr.  Spal- 
ding, Messrs.  McKinley,  Rogers,  and  McKay,  wished  a  song 
from  our  boatmen  ;  it  was  no  sooner  given  than  returned  by 
the  Indians,  and  repeated  again,  again,  and  again,  in  high 
cheer.  I  thought  it  a  good  time,  and  required  all  having 
any  claim  to  bring,  or  grievances  to  allege,  against  Mr.  Spal- 
ding, to  meet  me  and  the  high  chief  at  evening  in  the  coun- 
(;il  room,  and  re({ui'sted  Mr.  Spalding  to  do  the  same 
<»n  the  part  of  the  Indians.  We  met  at  six,  and  ended 
at  eleven,  having  accomplished,  in  the  happiest  manner, 
much  anxious  business.  Being  too  well  fed  to  be  irritable, 
or  disposed  to  quarrel,  both  parties  were  frank  and  open, 
seeming  anxious  only  to  learn  our  opinion  upon  plain  undis- 
guised matters  of  fact,  many  of  the  difficulties  having  arisen 
from  an  honest  difference  of  sentiment  respecting  certain 
measures. 

Ellis,  the  chief,  really  conducted  himself  throughout  in  a 
manner  creditable  to  his  head  and  heart,  was  quite  as  cor- 
lect  in  his  conclusions  and  firm  in  his  decisions  as  could  have 
been  expected.  The  next  day  we  had  our  last  meeting, 
:md  one  full  of  interest,  in  which  they  proposed  to  me  many 
grave  and  proper  questions ;  and,  as  it  was  manifestly  de- 
sired, I  advised  in  many  matters,  especially  in  reference  to 
bogging  or  even  receiving  presents,  without,  in  some  way, 
returning  a  a  equivalent;  pointed  out  ui  strong  language  who 
Ixiggars  an  among  the  whites,  and  how  regarded  ;  and  com- 
mended theiii  ((^r  not  once  troubling  me,  during  my  stay, 


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188 


TEN    YEARS   IN    OKBOON. 


with  this  disgusting  practice ;  and  as  a  toltcn  of  respect, 
now,  at  the  close  of  our  long  and  happy  meeting,  they  would 
please  accept,  in  the  name  of  my  great  chief,  a  preseiit  of 
fifty  garden  hoes,  not  for  those  in  authority,  or  those  that 
had  no  need  of  them,  but  for  the  chiefs  and  Mr.  Spalding 
to  distribute  among  their  industrious  poor.  I  likewise,  as 
they  were  very  needy,  proposed  and  ordered  them  some  me- 
dicines, to  be  destributed  as  they  should  from  time  to  time 
be  required.  This  being  done,  I  exhorted  them  to  be  in 
obedience  to  their  chiefs,  highly  approving  the  choice  they 
had  made,  assuring  them,  as  he  and  the  other  chiefs  were 
responsible  to  me  for  their  good  behavior,  I  should  feel  it 
my  duty  to  see  them  sustained  in  all  lawful  measures  to 
promote  peace  and  order.  I  then  turned,  and  with  good 
effect  desired  all  the  chiefs  to  look  upon  tl'e  congregation  Jis 
their  own  children,  and  then  pointed  to  Mr.  Spalding  and 
lady,  and  told  the  chiefs,  and  all  present,  to  look  upon  them 
as  their  father  and  mother,  and  treat  them  in  all  respects  as 
such  ;  and  should  thsy  happen  to  differ  in  sentiment  respect- 
ing any  matter  during  my  absence,  be  cautious  not  to  differ 
in  feeling,  but  leave  it  till  I  should  again  return,  when  the 
chief  and  myself  would  rectify  it.  Thus  closed  this  mutually 
happy  and  interesting  meeting,  and,  mounting  our  horses  for 
home,  Mr.  Spalding  and  the  chiefs  accompanied  me  for  some 
four  or  five  miles,  when  we  took  leave  of  them  in  the  pleas- 
antest  manner,  not  a  single  circumstimce  having  occurred  to 
mar  our  peace  or  shake  each  other's  confidence. 

I  shall  here  introduce  a  note,  previously  prepared,  giving 
some  further  information  respecting  this  tribe,  and  append 
a  copy  of  their  laws.  The  Nez  Perces  have  one  gover- 
nor or  principal  chief,  twelve  subordinate  chiefs  of  equal 
power,  being  the  heads  of  the  different  villages  or  clans,  with 


t 


I 


i 

■# 


T£K   YEARS   IN    OREOON. 


18a 


Uicir  five  officers  to  execute  all  their  lawful  orders,  which 
law  they  have  printed  in  their  own  language,  and  read  ua- 
derstandingly.  The  chiefs  are  held  responsible  to  the  whitca 
for  the  good  behavior  of  the  tribe.  They  arc  a  happy  and 
orderly  people,  forming  an  honorable  exception  to  the  gene- 
ral Indian  character,  being  more  industrious,  cleanly,  sensi- 
ble, dignified,  and  virtuous. 

This  organization  was  ellccled  last  fall,  and  operates  well, 
and  with  them,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  succeed.  A  few  days 
since  Governor  McLaughlin  favored  me  with  a  note  address- 
ed to  him  from  the  Rev.  II.  II.  Spalding,  missionary  to  this 
tribe,  stating  as  follows: 

"The  Indians  in  this  vicinity  are  remarkably  quiet  this 
winter,  and  are  highly  pleased  with  the  laws  recommended 
by  Dr.  White,  which  were  unanimously  adopted  by  the 
chiefs  and  people  in  council  assembled.  The  visit  of  Dr. 
White  and  assistants  to  this  upper  country  will  evidently 
prove  an  incalculable  blessing  to  this  peo])le.  The  school 
now  numbers  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  in  daily  attend- 
ance, embracing  most  of  the  chiefs  and  principal  men  of  the 
nation." 


-'•t: 


('  > 


gover- 

cqual 

IS,  with 


LAWS    OF    THE    NES    PEUCKS. 

Art.   1.     Whoever  wilfully  takes  life  shall  be  hung. 

Art.  2.     Whoever  burns  a  dwelling  house  shall  be  hung. 

AuT.  3.  Whoeve?'  burns  an  outbuilding  shall  be  impris- 
oned six  months,  receive  fifty  lashes,  and  pay  all  damages. 

Am.  5.  If  any  one  enter  a  dwelling,  without  permission 
of  the  occupant,  the  chiefs  shall  punish  him  as  they  think 
proper. 

Art.  G.  If  any  one  steal  he  shill  pay  back  two  fold ; 
and  if  it  be  the  value  of  a  beaver  skin  or  loss,  he  shall  receive 


190 


TEN    TEARS    IV    OREGOK. 


ill 


* 


twenty-live  lasLes ;  and  if  the  value  is  over  a  l)eaver  stin 
he  shall  pay  back  two-fold,  and  receive  fifty  lashes. 

Art.  7.  If  any  one  take  a  horse,  and  ridi  it,  without 
permission,  or  take  any  article,  and  use  it,  without  liberty, 
he  shall  pay  for  the  use  of  it,  and  receive  from  twenty  to 
fifty  lashes,  as  the  chief  shall  direct. 

Art.  8.     If  any  on.;  enter  a  field,  and  injure  the  crops, 
or  throw  down  the  fence,  so  that  cattle  or  horses  go  in  and 
do  damage,  he  shall  pay  all  damages,  and  receive  twenty 
five  lashes  for  every  offence. 

Art.  9.  Those  only  may  keep  dogs  who  travel  or  live 
among  the  game ;  if  a  dog  kill  a  iamb,  calf,  or  any  domestic 
animal,  the  owner  shall  pay  the  damage,  an^l  kill  the  dog 

Art.  10.  If  an  Indian  raise  a  gun  or  other  weapon 
against  a  white  man,  il  shall  be  reported  to  the  chiefs,  and 
they  shall  punish  him.  If  a  white  person  do  the  same  to  an 
Indian,  it  shall  be  reported  to  Dr.  White,  and  he  shall  r*-- 
dress  it. 

Art.   11.     Tf  an  Indian  break  these  laws,  he  shall  be  pun 
ished  by  his  chiefs ;  if  a  white  man  break  them,  he  shall  b** 
reported  to  the  agent,  and  be  punished  at  his  instance. 


After  a  severe  journey  of  some  four  'lays,  through  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather,  we  reached  Waiilaptu,  Dr 
Whitman's  station,  where  we  had  many  most  unpleasant 
matters  to  settle  with  the  Keyuse  tribe — such  as  personal 
abuse  to  Dr.  Whitman  and  lady,  burning  the  mill,  <fec.  Ac. 
Several,  but  not  all  of  the  chiefs,  were  present.  Learning 
what  the  Nez  Perces  had  done,  gave  them  great  concern 
and  anxiety.  Touiti,  the  high  chief,  and  Feathercap,  wer< 
there,  with  some  few  more  dignitaries,  but  manifestly  uneasy. 


TEN  YEARS    IK    OREGON. 


191 


r  skin 

rithout 
iberty, 
jnty  to 

crops. 

in  and 

iwenty 

or  livo 
iomestic 
he  dog 
weapon 
iefs,  and 
me  to  ai» 
shall  re 

be  pun 
shall  he 

[ICC. 

ugh  the 
)tu,    Dr 
ipleasant 
personal 

&c.  Ac. 

(earning 

concern 
ap,  wert 

uneasy, 


being  shy  and  cautious.     I  thought  best,  under  the  circum- 
stances, to  be  quiet,  distant,  and  reserved,  and  let  them  com- 
mence the  conversation  with  my  worthy  and  faithful  friends, 
Rogers   and  McKay — both  conducting  with   characteristic 
firmness  and  candor.     They  had  not  proceeded  far  before 
Feathcrcap,  so  far  as  we  know,  for  the  first  time  in  Hfe,  com- 
menced weeping,  and  wished  to  see  mo  ;  said  his  heart  was 
sick,  and  he  could  not  live  long  as  he  now  felt.     Touiti,  who 
was  no  way  implicated  personally  in  the  difficulties,  and  a 
correct  man,  continued  for  some  time  firm  and  steady  to  his 
purpose  ;  said  the  whites  were  much  more  to  blame  than  the 
Ir.Hans;  that  three-fourths  of  them,  though  they  taught  the 
purest  doctrines,  praticed  the  greatest  abominations — allu- 
ding to  the  base  conduct  of  many  in  the  llocky  Mountains, 
where  they  meet  them  on  their  bufi'alo  hunts  during  the 
summer   season,   and    witness  the  greatest  extravagances. 
They  were  shown  the  inapplicability  of  such  instances  to  the 
present  cases   of  difficulty.     He,    too,    at  last   was  much 
subdued  ;  wished  to  see  me  ;  was  admitted  ;  made  a  sensible 
speech  in  his  own  favor  ;  said  he  was  constituted  eight  years 
before  high  chief,  entered  upon  its  duties  with  spirit  and 
courage,  determined  to  reduce   his  people  to   order.     He 
flogged  the  young  men,  and  reproved  the  middle  aged,  till, 
having  none  to  sustain  him,  his  popularity  had  so  declined 
that,  except  in  seasons  of  difficulty,  brought  about  by  their 
improprieties,  I  am  left  alone  to  say  my  prayers,  and  go  to 
bed,  to  weep  over  the  follies  and  wickedness  of  my  peo- 
ple.    Here  his  voice  trembled,  and   he   wept   freely — ac- 
knowledged his  opinion  that  the  mill  was  burnt  purposely 
by  some  disailected  persons  toward  Dr.  Whitman.     I  spoke 
kindly  and  somewhat  encouragingly  to  these  chiefs ;  assured 
them  that  the  guilty  only  were  to  be  regarded  as  such  ;  and 


'v  .■: 


•    .»      f! 


r 


'I 


102 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OUEGOJT. 


i 


Ifc 


tliiit  c;uidor  was  commendable,  and  would  be  honored  by  all 
the  gcxjd ;  assured  them  I  credited  all  thoy  said,  and  deplo- 
red the  state  of  their  naliun,  which  was  in  perfect  anarchy 
and  confusion  ;  told  ihem  1  could  say  but  little  to  them  now, 
as  their  chiefs  v/erc  mostly  abroad  ;  but  must  say  that  the 
shocking  conduct  of  one  of  the  chiefs  towards  Mrs.  Whitman 
greatly  afllicled  me;  and  that,  with  the  destruction  of  the 
mill,  and  their  abominable  conduct  towards  Dr.  Whitman,  if 
not  speedily  settled,  would  lead  to  the  worst  of  consequen- 
ces to  their  tribe.  I  made  an  engagement  to  meet  them 
and  all  the  tribe  the  ensuing  new  moon  of  April,  to  adjust 
ditrerences,  and  come  to  a  better  understanding,  they  ear- 
nestly wishing  to  adopt  the  same  laws  ;is  the  Nez  Perces 
had.  We  should  probably  have  accomplished  a  satisfactory 
settlement,  had  not  several  of  the  inllucntial  chiefs  been 
too  far  away  to  get  information  of  the  meeting.  We  reached 
Wascopum  on  the  25th  December,  the  Indians  being  in 
great  excitement,  having  different  views  and  impressions  re- 
specting the  nature  of  the  approaching  visit.  We  spent  four 
days  with  them,  holding  meetings  daily,  instructing  them  in 
the  nature  of  government,  civil  relations,  domestic  duties, 
&C.  iSlc.  Succeeded,  in  like  happy  manner,  with  them  as 
the  Nez  Perces,  they  unanimously  adopting  the  same  code 
of  laws. 

Late  infoj'matiun  from  one  of  the  missionaries,  you  will 
see  in  the  following  note  from  Mr.  H.  B.  Brewer : 

"  The  Indians  of  this  place  intend  to  carry  out  the  regula- 
tions you  left  them  to  the  letter ;  they  have  been  quite  en- 
gaged in  cutting  logs  fur  houses,  and  live  in  expectation  of 
better  dwellings  by  and  by.  For  the  least  transgression  of 
the  laws  they  are  riuniihed  by  their  chiefs  immediately. 


;i  I  !^ 


w 


TBN    TEAKS  IN    OREOON. 


193 


n\\ 


The  clean  faces  of  bomo,  unci  tho  tidy  dresses  of  other8,  shovr 
the  good  elTecta  of  your  visit." 

Atid  hero  allow  rnc  to  say,  except  at  Wascopum,  the  mis- 
fiionaries  of  this  upper  country  are  too  few  in  number  at  their 
respective  stiUions,  and  in  too  defenceless  a  state  for  their 
own  safety,  or  the  best  good  of  the  Indians,  the  latter  taking 
advantage  of  these  circumstances,  to  the  no  small  annoyance, 
and,  in  some  instances,  greatly  endangering  the  personal 
safety  of  the  former.  You  will  see  its  bearings  upon  this 
infant  colony,  and  doubtless  give  such  information  or  instruc- 
tions to  the  American  board  of  commissioners  or  myself,  as 
will  cause  a  correction  of  this  evil.  It  has  already  occasion- 
ed some  difficulty  ajid  much  cost.  I  have  insisted  upon  an 
incrciisc  of  numbers  at  Mr.  Spalding's  mission,  which  haa 
accordingly  been  reinforced  by  Mr.  Liltlejohn  and  lady,  ren- 
dering that  station  measurably  secure;  but  not  so  at  Waii- 
laptu,  or  some  of  the  Catholic  missions,  where  some  of  them 
lost  a  considerable  amount  in  herds  during  last  winter,  and, 
I  am  told,  were  obliged  to  abandon  their  posts,  their  Uvea 
being  endangered.  This  was  in  the  interior,  near  the  Dlack- 
feet  country. 

You  will  observe,  from  the  reports  of  the  different  mis- 
sions, which,  so  far  as  I  am  otherwise  informed,  arc  correct, 
that  they  are  doing  some  positive  good  in  the  country,  not 
only  by  diffusing  the  light  of  science  abroad  among  us,  but 
also  by  giving  employment  to  many,  and,  by  their  drafts 
upon  the  different  boards  and  otliers,  creating  a  circulating 
medium  in  this  country  ;  but,  though  they  make  compara- 
tively slow  progress  in  the  way  of  reform  among  the  abori- 
gines of  this  country,  their  pious  and  correct  example  hiXB  a 
most  restraining  influence  upon  both  whites  and  Indians,  and 

in  thid  way  they  prevent  much  evil. 
13 


.•i 


r 


ii*- 


^^ 


%■ 


m 


TEN    VEAUS   IN    OREOOK. 


They  have  in  successful  operation  six  schools.  Rev.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Spalding — whose  zeal  and  untiring  industry  for  the 
people  of  their  charge  entitle  them  to  our  best  considerations 
— ^have  a  school — of  some  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  in 
constant  attendance — most  successfully  carried  forward, 
wfcich  gives  promise  of  great  usefulness  to  both  sexes  and  all 
itges.  Rev.  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eells  I  have  not  been  at  lei- 
sure to  visit,  but  learn  they  have  a  small  school  in  opera- 
tion. The  one  at  Waiilaptu,  Dr.  Whitman's  station,  is  now 
recommenced,  with  promise  of  usefulness. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Blanchette  and  associates,  though  zealous 
Catholics,  are  peaceable,  industrious,  indefatigable,  and  suc- 
cessful, in  promoting  religious  knowledge  among  the  Cana- 
dian population  and  aborigines  of  this  country.  Their  enter- 
prise in  the  erection  of  mills  and  other  public  works  is  very 
commendable,  and  the  general  industry,  good  order,  and  cor- 
rect habits  of  that  portion  of  the  population  under  their  charge 
is  sufficient  proof  that  their  influence  over  their  people  has 
been  exerted  for  good.  The  Rev.  Mr,  Lee  and  associates, 
aside  from  their  well  conducted  operations,  upon  the  Colum- 
bia, and  a  school  of  some  thirty  scholars  successfully  carried 
forward  upon  the  Willamette,  are  doing  but  little  for  the  In- 
dians ;  nor  could  greater  efforts  produce  much  good  among 
the  scattered  remnants  of  the  broken  tribes  of  this  lower 
district,  who  are  fast  disappearing  before  the  ravages  of  the 
most  loathsome  diseases.  Their  principal  hopes  of  success 
in  this  country  arc  among  the  whites,  where  they  are  en- 
deavoring to  lay  deep  and  broad  the  foundations  of  science. 
The  literary  institution  referred  to  by  Mr.  Lee  is  situated 
upon  a  beautiful  rising  ground — a  healthy  and  eligible  loca- 
tion. Could  a  donation  of  five  thousand  dollars  be  bestowed 
upon  the  institution,  it  would  greatly  encoui'age  its  friends. 


TEN  TEARS  IN    OREGON. 


105 


r;;s 


Tlie  donations  made  by  individuals  of  this  country  have  been 
most  liberal,  several  giving  one-third  of  all  they  possessed. 
There  is  a  small  school  established  at  Palatine  plains,  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Clark  and  lady.  There  is  also  a  school  at  the  Catholic 
mission,  upon  the  Willamette,  and  also  one  at  their  station 
upon  the  Cowlitz  For  further  information,  I  will  refer  you 
to  the  reports  made,  at  my  rcijuest,  by  the  several  missions, 
and  accompanying  these  despatches. 

The  couHtry  upon  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries,  as  far 
as  the  Dalles,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles 
from  its  mouth,  is  well  timbered  ;  above  the  Dalles  timber  is 
scarce,  larg<3  districts  being  destitute,  -except  here  and  there 
•a  small  quantity  growing  upon  the  streams  of  water.  TTie 
■country  between  the  ColumWa  and  California  is  also  timber- 
ed, and  of  a  fine  quality.  The  district  contiguous  to  the 
Columbia,  is,  generally,  too  rough  and  mountainous  ever  to 
become  an  agricultural  country  ;  but  south  of  the  Columbia, 
in  the  valley  of  the  Willamette,  the  soil  is  admirably  adapted 
to  purposes  of  agriculture,  being  generally  undulating  prai- 
ries, surrounded  by  timbered  land,  and  intersected  by  nu- 
merous small  streams.  This  is  the  character  of  the  coimtry, 
generally  towards  California.  Mr.  Spalding's  report  gives  a 
general  statement  -of  the  character  of  the  country  bordering 
upon  the  Columbia  above  the  Dalles.  The  Columbia,  the 
principal  river  of  this  region,  is  somewhat  difficult  to  enter, 
owing  to  the  want  of  proper  charts,  &c.  The  ships  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  are,  however,  in  the  constant  hab- 
it of  ascending  it  as  far  as  Vancouver  fort.  The  Willamei4ie, 
a  tributary  of  the  Columbia,  can  be  ascended  at  favorable 
seasons  of  the  year  by  vessels  of  two  hundred  tons,  to  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  falls. 

The  Umqua  river  has  a  small  harbor,  but  cannot  be  as- 


^u 


11 


i»6 


TKM    TKAllS  IN    OHECON. 


i^ 


it: 


'     t 


It 


t-'s 


ml. 


cendcd  a  great  distance  by  vessels.  The  Na.squally,  as  you 
have  been  doubtless  informed  by  Commander  Wilkes,  about 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles  north  of  the  Columbia,  forms  a 
fine  harbor;  the  river,  however,  not  being  navigable  to  a 
great  distance  by  large  vessels. 

Stone  for  building  purposes  is  abundant  on  the  banks  of 
the  Columbia,  stretching  far  into  the  interior.  There  is 
some  granite,  but  basaltic  rock  only  is  very  plentiful  upon 
the  Willamette,  to  some  distance  above  the  falls.  Limestone 
has  been  found  in  some  quantities  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  though  I  have  not  as  yet  had  lirao 
to  examine  it.  Lime  has  never  been  made  in  this  country, 
except  in  small  quantities,  by  burning  the  choral  obtiiined 
from  the  Sandwich  islands.  IJricks  have  been  made  to  some 
extent,  and  there  are  now  two  persons  in  the  country  who 
understand  making  them.  There  arc  several  mechanics  in 
th"  <"^'ony,  but,  for  the  want  of  tools  and  materials,  they  do 
nc.  ompt  to  carry  on  their  business.  There  are  nine  car- 
penters and  two  stone  masons  in  the  settlement.  There  are 
settlements  established  upon  the  Willamette  sixty-five  miles 
from  its  mouth  :  at  Palatine  plains,  twelve  miles  south  of  the 
Columbia,  and  twenty  west  of  the  Willamette  falls  ;  at  Clat- 
sop plains,  six  miles  south  of  the  Columbia;  and  at  the 
falls  of  the  Willamette,  a  population  of  seventy,  engaged  in 
building  storehouses,  mills,  &,c.  Here  is  a  water  power  of 
very  great  extent.  The  river  here  takes  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  thirty-eight  feet,  presenting  as  extensive  and  advan- 
tageous sites  for  mills  and  factories  as  any  where  exist.  At 
the  Clackaraus,  a  small  stream  falling  into  the  Willamette 
two  miles  below  the  falls,  there  is  a  population  of  twenty 
persons.     This  settlement  commenced  last  fall ;  it  is  seven 


nV   YEAUa    IN  ORKOOW. 


197 


miles  from  tlie  falls  by  land,  and  upon  a  jjloasant  and  some- 
what extensive  prairie. 

At  the  Cowlitz,  a  somewhat  rapid  river,  falliiipr  into  the 
Columbia  from  the  north,  about  fifty  miles  from  its  mouth, 
there  is  a  small  settlement  of  sixty-four  persons,  cxjoying 
the  benefits  of  the  Catholic  ministry.  The  face  of  the  coun- 
try upon  the  Cowlitz  is  generally  level,  the  soil  thin,  and 
impregnated  with  magnesia,  being  less  fertile  than  that  of 
the  Willamette  valley.  Your  incjuiry  respecting  the  compar- 
ison between  Oregon,  from  the  Dalles  to  the  Pacific — some 
two  hundred  and  twenty  miles — and  the  New  England 
States,  I  am  now  somewhat  better  prepared  to  answer,  hav- 
ing visited  more  of  this  country,  and  likewise  most  of  the 
New  England  States.  As  a  whole,  in  point  of  soil,  I  think 
it  much  better,  having  also  greatly  the  advantage  in  climate, 
and  vastly  superior  as  a  grazing  country,  the  inhabitants  not 
beincf  obliged  to  winter  their  slock. 

I  must  close  by  praying  that  measures  may  be  speedily 
entered  into  to  take  possession  of  this  country,  if  such  steps 
have  not  already  been  taken.  I  left  home  before  the  close 
of  the  session  of  congress,  and  by  reason  do  not  know  what 
disposition  was  made  of  Mr.  Linn's  bill.  As  a  reason  for 
thus  praying,  T  would  here  say,  the  time  was  when  the  gen- 
tlemen of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  the  missions, 
wielded  the  entire  influence  over  this  small  population  ;  but 
as  they  have  been  reinforced  latterly  from  whale  ships,  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  the  southwestern  states,  these  hitherto 
salutary  restraints  and  influences  are  giving  way  and  being 
measurably  lost. 

At  present  T  have  considerable  influence,  but  cannot  long 
expect  to  retain  it,  especially  in  the  faithful  discharge  of  my 
duty.     As  a  reason  for  coming  to  such  a  conclusion,  I  had 


198 


TIN  TEARS  IN  cmEGa:^. 


I      • 


but  just  arrived  from  the  interior  when  I  received  an  urgent 
call  to  visit  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  I  left  at  once,  in 
company  with  Nathaniel  Crocker,  Esq.,  Mr.  Rogers,  my  in- 
terpreter, his  lady,  and  her  young  sister — the  females  going 
only  to  the  falls — with  a  crew  of  Indians,  on  our  ill  fated  ex- 
pedition. We  reached  the  falls  at  sunset,  February  1,  and 
by  reason  of  the  watci'  being  higher  than  usual,  in  passing 
around  a  jutting  or  projecting  rock,  the  canoe  was  thrown 
up  suddenly  against  a  log  constituting  a  landing,  at  which 
instant  I  stepped  off,  and  in  a  moment  the  slender  craft  wa» 
»wept  away,  with  all  its  precious  cargo,  over  the  perpendic- 
ular falls  of  thirty-eight  feet,  thrse  rods  below.  The  shock 
was  dreadful  to  this  infant  colony,  and  the  loss  was  irrepa- 
rable, Mr.  Rogers  being  more  important  to  me  than  any  one 
in  the  country ;  nor  was  there  a  more  respectable  or  useful 
man  west  of  the  mountains.  Nathaniel  Crocker  came  in 
with  me  last  fall  from  Tompkins  county ;  he  was  much  pleas- 
ed with  the  country  and  its  prospects,  and  the  citizens  were 
rejoiced  at  the  arrival  of  such  a  man  in  the  temtory ;  he  was 
every  way  capacitated  for  usefulness.  None  of  the  bodies  of 
the  four  whites  or  two  Indians  have  been  as  yet  found.  For 
further  particulars  see  letter  to  Mrs.  White.* 


•  "  On  the  First  day  of  February,  Mr.  Crocker,  Mr.  Rogers  and  his 
lady,  who  was  once  Satira  Leslie,  and  her  youngest  sister,  with  myself 
tnd  four  Indians,  were  on  our  way  to  Astoria.  We  were  passing  down 
by  a  rock,  to  reach  a  log  to  pass  to  the  shore,  the  water  being  very  high 
and  the  current  strong,  the  canoe  barely  passed,  giving  space  for  me  to 
step  on  the  log,  when  it  began  to  drive.  Esquire  Crocker  seized  the 
end  of  the  paddle,  which  I  held,  and  each  exerted  ourselves  to  draw  it 
to  the  log  a  second  time,  but  it  was  in  vain  ;  and  in  an  instant,  in  spite 
of  every  effort  of  those  on  board,  excepting  the  poor  females,  the  canoe 
was  hurled  over  the  falls,  and  every  soul,  except  two  poor  Indians,  sent 


TEX   YKAIIS  IN    OnEGOK. 

*****  On  arriving  at  the  mouth  o/ 
the  Columbia,  I  found  a  sailor  by  the  name  of  Ooorge  Gccre, 
who  hud  most  evidently  and  maliciously  labored  to  instigate 
the  Indians  to  take  the  life  of  one  of  the  mission  gcntlcmou, 
by  the  offer  of  five  blankets.  Complaints  being  made,  and 
having  no  better  means,  I  prevailed  upon  Governor  McLaugh- 
lin to  allow  him  to  accompany  their  express  across  the  moun- 
tains to  the  States.  I  would  here  say,  as  the  scamp  WJUi 
nearly  a  fool,  as  well  as  a  villain,  I  allowed  him  to  go  with- 
out sending  evidence  against  him,  m  condition  of  his  going 
voluntarily,  and  never  returning. 

I  here  likewise  found  a  rash,  venture:  vMne  character,  abaut 


into  eternity.  Chilled  and  motionless  with  horror,  I  witnesurd  the 
dreadful  scene.  They  went  down  within  four  rods  of  me,  Mrs.  Rogers 
uttering  a  thrilling  shriek  as  they  possed  over  the  falls.  The  two  Indi- 
ans  were  saved  by  jumping  overboard,  and,  seemingly  against  impoa- 
sibilities,  swimming  to  the  shore  through  the  rapids.  This  horrible  dis- 
aster has  filled  the  colony  with  consternation  and  deep  affliction.  Oh, 
what  a  sad  blow  to  poor  .Mrs.  Crocker,  and  all  his  connexions.  I  pr«y 
God  to  sustain  them.  He  had  been  spending  the  last  two  months  at 
my  house,  and  his  mildness,  condescension,  and  pleasant,  agreeable 
manners,  will  never  be  forgotten.  lie  was  delighted  with  the  country, 
and  had  bright  hopes  and  cheering  prospects,  and  was  thinking  of  cto- 
sing  a  contract  with  O'Neal  for  his  farm  and  all  his  herds,  in  a  few 
days,  under  most  advantageous  circumstances,  and  intended  to  btiV^ 
hia  family  out  in  a  short  time,  as  he  saw  the  advantages  of  this  couq- 
try  in  a  clear  and  strong  light.  The  hospitality  and  generosity  of 
the  people  greatly  pleased  him,  and  on  the  other  hand  he  was  univer- 
sally more  than  respected  ;  he  was  gaining  upon  the  best  afTections  and 
kindest  regards  of  the  people,  and  seemed  destined  to  be  greatly  es- 
teemed and  beloved.  »  «  *  «  I  hope  you  will  be  at 
much  pains  to  pour  consolation,  as  far  as  kind  attentions  and  sootkisg 
language  go,  into  the  heart  of  poor  Mrs.  Crocker." 
Pardon  this  digressioD. 


'V.1« 


200 


TEN  YEARS   IK    OUSOOK. 


i      * . 


itarting  off  on  a  trading  excursion,  among  a  somewliat  nu- 
merous band  of  Indians,  and  they  nowise  well  disposed  to- 
wards the  whites.  As  lie  Faw  and  felt  no  danger,  argu- 
ntients  were  unavailing,  and  threats  only  prevented. 

Sir,  shall  men  be  allowed  to  go  where  they  please,  Ijow* 
ever  remote  from  the  colony,  and  settle,  under  circumstan- 
ces that  not  only  endanger  tlu  ir  own  personal  safety,  but  the 
peace  and  safety  of  the  whoh;  white  population?  Please 
give  me  specific  instructions  respecting  this  matter. 

Though  I  have  addressed  you  at  some  length,  I  should 
have  brought  more  before  you,  and  in  a  better  manner,  but 
for  incessant  labor,  care,  and  ill  health.  I  have  eight  pris- 
oners on  hand  at  present,  for  various  crimes,  principally 
stealing  horses,  grain,  &c. ;  and  crimes  are  multiplying  with 
numbers  among  the  whites,  and  with  scarcity  of  game  with 

the  Indians. 

%  *  *  *  *  %  % 

No  intelligence  from  abroad  has  reached  us  this  winter- 
Mount  St.  Helen,  one  of  these  snow-capped  volcanic  moun- 
tains, some  sixteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  eighty  miles  north-west  of  Vancouver,  broke  out  upon 
the  20th  November  last,  presenting  a  scene  the  most  awful 
and  sublime  imaginable,  scattering  smoke  and  ashes  sev- 
eral hundred  miles  distance  ;  and  in  the  mean  time  immense 
quantities  of  melted  lava  were  rolling  down  its  sides,  and 
inundating  the  plains  below. 

A  petition  started  from  this  country  to-day,  making  bitter 
complaints  against  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  Gov. 
McLaughlin.  In  referring  to  it — as  a  copy  was  denied — I 
ghall  only  say,  had  any  gentleman  disconnected  with  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  been  at  half  the  pains  and  expense 
to  establish  a  claim  to  the  Willamette  fal? .,  very  few  would 


F 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OUEaON. 


201 


have  raised  an  opposition.  His  half  busliel  measure  I  know 
to  be  exact,  according  to  the  PJnglish  imperial  standard. 
The  gentlemen  of  this  company  have  been  fathers  and  fos- 
terers of  the  colony,  ever  encouraging  peace,  industry  and 
good  order,  and  have  sustained  a  character  for  hospitality 
and  integiity  too  well  established  to  be  eatiily  shaken. 
I  am,  sir,  sincerely  and  most  respectfully, 

your  humble  and  obedient  servant, 

ELIJAH  WHITE, 
Sub-agent  Indian  Affairs,  W.  R.  M, 
T.     Hartley  Crawford,  Esq., 

Commissioner  Indian  Affairs. 


f 

p 

•;':■ 

J*    ■ 

', 

1, 

r= 

My  Dear  Brother — The  kind  letter  our  mission  had  the 
honor  of  receiving  from  yourself,  making  incjuiries  relative 
to  its  numbers,  the  character  of  the  Indian  tribes  among 
whom  its  several  stations  arc  located,  the  country,  etc.,  is 
now  before  me. 

The  questions  referring  to  Indian  character  are  very  impor- 
tant, and  to  answer  them  requires  a  more  extensive  knowl- 
edge of  character  and  habits,  from  personal  daily  observa- 
tion, than  the  short  residence  of  six  years  can  afford,  and 
more  lime  and  attention  than  I  can  possibly  command,  amidst 
the  nimierous  cares  and  labors  of  the  station,  I  less  regret 
this,  as  the  latter  will  receive  the  attention  of  my  better  in- 
formed and  worthy  associates  of  the  other  stations. 

Concerning  many  of  the  questions,  I  can  only  give  my 
own  half- formed  opinions,  from  limited  observations,  which 
have  not  extended  far  beyond  the  people  of  my  immediate 
charge. 

Our  mission  is  under  the  patronage  of  the  A.  13.  C.  F.  M., 
and  was  commenced  in  the  fall  of  1836,  by  Marcus  Whit- 


202 


TEN  YSARS  IN   OREGON. 


I    ".  f 


v.- 


I' I    *--|lt 


man,  M.  D.,  and  myself,  with  our  wives,  and  Mr.  Gray. 
Dr.  Whitman  was  located  at  WaiilaptU;  among  the  Keyuse 
Indians,  twenty-five  miles  east  of  Fort  Wallawalla,  a  trading 
post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  stands  nine  miles 
below  the  junction  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  rivers,  three  hundred 
miles  from  the  Pacific,  and  about  two  hundred  miles  from 
Fort  Vancouver.  I  was  located  at  this  place,  on  the  Clear- 
water or  Koos-koos-ky  river,  twelve  miles  from  its  junction 
with  the  Lewis  river,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  east  of 
WaiilaptU.  Mr.  Gray  left  the  same  winter,  and  returned  to 
the  states.  In  the  fall  of  1838,  Mr.  Gray  returned  to  this 
country,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Gray,  Messrs.  Walker,  Eells, 
and  Smith,  and  their  wives,  and  Mr.  Rogers.  The  next  sea- 
son, two  new  stations  were  commenced,  one  by  Messrs. 
Walker  and  Eells  at  Cimakain,  near  Spokan  river,  among  the 
Spokan  Indians,  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  northwest 
of  this  station,  and  sixty-five  miles  south  of  Fort  Colville, 
on  the  Columbia  river,  three  hundred  miles  above  Fort  Wal- 
lawalla ;  the  second  by  Mr.  Smith,  among  the  Nez  Perces, 
sixty  miles  above  the  station.  There  are  now  connected  with 
this  mission  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Walker  and  Eells,  Mrs.  Walker 
and  Mrs.  Eells,  at  Ciraakam,  myself  and  Mrs.  Spalding  at 
this  station.  Dr.  Whitman  is  now  on  a  visit  to  the  states, 
and  Mrs.  Whitman  on  a  visit  to  the  Dalles,  a  station  of  our 
Methodist  brethren.  But  two  natives  have  as  yet  been  ad- 
mitted into  the  church.  Some  ten  or  twelve  others  give 
pleasing  evidence  of  having  been  born  again. 

Concerning  the  schools  and  congregations  on  the  Sabbath, 
I  will  speak  only  of  this  station.  The  congregation  on  the 
Sabbath  varies  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  and  must 
continue  to  do  so  until  the  people  find  a  substitute  in  the 
fruits  of  the  earth  and  herds  for  their  roots,  game,  and  fish, 


I 


Tnr  TBARS  IN    OREGON. 


203 


which  necessarily  requires  much  wandering.  I  am  happy 
to  say  that  this  people  are  very  generally  turning  their  at- 
tention, with  much  apparent  eagerness,  to  cultivating  the 
soil,  and  raising  hogs,  cattle  and  sheep,  and  find  a  much 
more  abundant  and  agreeable  source  of  subsistence  in  the 
hoe  than  in  their  bows  and  sticks  for  digging  roots. 

For  a  few  weeks  in  the  fall,  after  the  people  return  from 
their  buffalo  hunt,  and  then  again  in  the  spring,  the  congre- 
gation numbers  from  one  thousand  to  two  thousand.  Through 
the  winter,  it  varies  from  two  hundred  to  eight  hundred. 
From  July  to  the  lat  of  October,  it  varies  from  two  hundred 
to  five  hundred.  The  congregation,  as  also  the  school,  iu- 
creases  every  winter,  as  the  quantity  of  provision  raised  ia 
the  vicinity  is  increased. 

Preparatory  to  schools  and  a  peracanent  congi-egation,  my 
earliest  attention,  on  arriving  in  this  country,  was  turned  to- 
wards schools,  as  promising  the  most  permanent  good  to  the 
nation,  in  connexion  with  the  written  word  of  God  and  the 
preached  gospel.  But  to  speak  of  schools  then  was  like 
speaking  of  the  church  bell,  when  as  yet  the  helve  is  not 
put  in  the  first  axe  by  which  the  timber  is  to  be  felled,  or 
the  first  stone  laid  in  the  dam  which  is  to  collect  the  water 
from  whence  the  lumber  in  the  edifice  in  which  the  bell  is  to 
give  forth  its  sounds.  Sufiice  it  to  say,  through  the  blessing 
of  God,  we  have  had  an  increasingly  large  school  for  two 
w inters  past,  with  comparatively  favorable  means  of  instruc- 
tion. 

But  the  steps  by  which  we  have  been  brought  to  the  pres- 
ent elevation,  if  I  may  so  speak,  though  we  are  yet  exceed- 
ingly low,  began  far,  back  among  the  days  of  nothing,  and 
little  to  do  with. 

Besides  eating  my  own  bread  by  the  sweat  of  my  brow. 


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204 


TKN    TEAKS   IN    OREGON. 


'■  W: 


•I 


there  were  the  wandering  children  of  a  necessarily  wandering 
people  to  collect  and  bring  permanently  within  the  reach  of 
the  school.  Over  this  department  of  labor  hung  the  dark- 
est cloud,  as  the  Indian  is  noted  for  despising  manuel  labor; 
but  I  would  acknowledge,  with  humble  gratitude,  the  inter- 
position of  that  hand  which  holds  the  hearts  of  all  men. 

The  hoe  soon  brought  hope,  light,  and  satisfaction,  the 
fruits  of  which  are  yearly  becoming  much  more  than  a  sub- 
stitute for  their  former  precarious  game  and  roots,  and  are 
much  preferred  by  the  people,  who  arc  coming  in  from  the 
mountains  and  plains,  and  calling  for  hoes,  pic,  vs,  and  seeds, 
much  faster  than  they  can  be  furnished,  and  collecting 
around  the  station  in  increasing  numbers,  to  cultivate  their 
little  farms,  so  furnishing  a  permanent  school  and  congrega- 
tion on  the  Sabbath,  from  four  to  eight  months.  And  as  the 
farms  are  enlarged,  giving  employment  and  food  for  the 
year,  I  trust  the  school  and  congregation  will  be  permanent 
through  the  year.  It  was  no  small  tax  on  my  time  to  give 
the  first  lessons  on  agriculture.  That  the  first  men  of  this 
nation — the  first  chiefs  not  excepted — rose  up  to  labor  when 
a  few  hoes  and  seeds  were  offered  them,  I  can  attribute  to 
nothing  but  the  unseen  hand  of  the  God  of  missions.  That 
their  habits  arc  really  changed  is  acknowledged  by  them- 
selves. The  men  say,  whereas  they  once  did  not  labor  with 
their  hands,  now  they  do  ;  and  often  tell  me  in  jesting  that 
I  have  converted  them  into  a  nation  of  wom3n.  They  are  a 
very  industrious  people,  and,  from  very  small  beginnings, 
they  now  cultivate  their  lands  with  much  skill  and  to  good 
advantage.  Doubtless  many  more  would  cultivate,  but  for 
the  want  of  means.  Your  kind  donation  of  fifty  hoes,  in  be- 
half of  the  gc  -ernment,  will  be  most  timely ;  and  should 
you  be  able  to  send  up  the  plows  you  kindly  proposed,  they 


'   >' 


TBN    TEARS   IN   ORSGOK. 


205 


Lhey 


will,  without  doubt,  be  purchased  immediately,  and  put  to 
the  best  use. 

But  to  return  to  the  school.  It  now  numbers  two  hun- 
dred and  twcn'.y-fivc  in  daily  attendance,  half  of  which  are 
adults.  Nearly  all  the  principal  men  and  chiefs  in  this  vicin- 
ity, with  one  chief  from  a  neighboring  tribe,  are  members  of 
the  school.  A  new  impulse  was  given  to  the  school  by  the 
warm  inierest  you  aad  Mr.  McKay  took  in  it  while  you  we:e 
here.  They  aie  as  industrious  in  school  as  they  are  on  their 
farms.  Ti.eir  improvement  is  astonishing,  considering  their 
crowded  condition,  and  only  Mrs.  Spalding,  with  her  deli- 
cate constitution  and  her  family  cares,  for  their  teacher. 

About  one  hundred  are  printing  their  own  books  with  a 
pen.  This  keeps  up  a  deep  interest,  as  they  daily  have  new 
lessons  to  print,  and  what  they  print  must  be  committed  to 
memory  as  soon  as  possible. 

A  good  number  are  now  so  far  advanced  in  reading  and 
printing  as  to  render  much  assistance  in  teaching.  Their 
books  are  taken  home  at  nights,  and  every  lodge  becomes 
a  school  room. 

Their  lessons  arc  scripture  lessons — no  others,  except  the 
laws,  seem  to  interest  them.  I  send  you  a  specimen  of  the 
books  they  print  in  school.  It  was  printed  by  ten  select 
adults,  yet  it  is  a  fair  specimen  of  a  great  number  in  the 
school. 

The  laws  which  you  so  happily  prepared,  and  which  were 
u!5animously  adopted  by  the  people,  I  have  printed  in  the 
form  of  a  small  school  book.  A  gi  eat  number  of  the  school 
now  road  them  fluently.  I  send  you  a  few  copies  of  the 
laws,  with  no  apologies  for  the  imperfect  maimer  in  which 
they  are  executed.  Without  doubt,  a  school  of  nearly  the 
same  number  could  be  collected  at  Kimiuh,  the  station  above 


•  ■  r 


h 


206 


TSN  TEAR8  IH    OREGOK. 


-.  ■», 


11 


HI   ^ 


this,  vacated  by  Mr.  Smith,  the  present  residence  of  Ellis, 
the  principal  chief. 

Number  who  cultivate. — Last  season  about  one  hundred 
and  forty  cultivated  from  one-fourth  of  an  acre  to  four  or  five 
acres  each.  About  half  this  number  cultivate  in  the  valley. 
One  chief  raised  about  one  hundi-ed  and  seventy-six  bushels 
of  peas  last  season,  one  hundred  of  com,  and  four  hundred 
of  potatoes.  Another  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  peas,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  o(  corn,  a  large  quantity  of  vegetables, 
potatoes,  etc.  Ellis,  I  believe,  raised  rather  more  than  either 
of  the  above  mentioned.  Some  forty  other  individuals  raised 
from  twenty  to  one  hundred  bushels  of  various  grains. 
Eight  individuals  are  now  furnished  with  plows.  Thirty- 
two  head  of  cattle  are  possessed  by  two  individuals ;  ten 
sheep  by  four  ;  tcme  forty  hogs. 

Arts  and  sciences. — Mrs.  Spalding  has  instructed  ten  fe- 
males in  knitting,  a  majority  of  the  female  department  in  the 
schools  in  sewing,  six  in  carding  and  spinning,  and  three  in 
weaving.  Should  our  worthy  brother  and  sister,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Littlejolin,  join  us  soon,  as  is  now  expected,  I  trust,  by 
the  blessing  of  God,  we  shall  see  greater  things  than  we 
have  yet  seen.  From  what  I  have  seen  in  the  field,  the 
school,  the  spinning  and  weaving  room,  in  the  prayer  room, 
and  Sabbath  congregation,  I  am  fully  of  the  opinion  that 
this  people  are  susceptible  of  high  moral  and  civil  improve- 
ment. 

Moral  character  of  the  people. — On  this  point  there  is  a 
great  diversity  of  opinion.  One  writer  styles  them  more  a 
nation  of  saints  than  of  savages  ;  and  if  tlieir  refusing  to 
move  camp  for  game,  at  his  suggestion,  on  a  certain  day,  re- 
minded him  that  the  Sabbath  extended  as  far  west  as  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  he  might  well  consider  them  such.     An- 


'i- 

■|    :-■ 

wL^ii^ 

TEN   YEARS   I'V   OREGOy. 


207 


of  Ellis, 

hundred 
ur  or  five 
ic  valley. 
c  bushels 
hundred 
peas,  one 
jgctablcs, 
lian  either 
lals  raised 
IS   grains. 
Thirty- 
luals ;  ten 

cd  ten  fe- 
mentinthc 
i  three  in 
Mr.  and 
I  trust,  by 
than  we 
field,  the 
ayer  room, 
)inion  that 
improve- 
there  is  a 
iin  more  a 
efusing  to 
ain  day,  re- 
est  as  the 
uch.     An- 


other styles  them  supremely  selfish,  which  is  nearer  the  truth  ; 
for,  without  doubt,  they  are  the  descendants  of  Adam. 
What  I  have  above  stated  is  evidently  a  part  of  the  bright 
side  of  their  character.  But  there  is  also  a  dark  side,  in 
which  I  have  sometimes  taken  part.  I  must,  however,  con- 
fess that  when  I  attempt  to  name  it,  and  hold  it  up  as  a 
marked  exception  to  a  nation  in  similar  circumstances,  with- 
out the  restraint  of  wholesome  laws,  and  strangers  to  the 
heaven-born  fruits  of  enlightened  and  well-regulated  society, 
I  am  not  able  to  do  it.  Faults  they  have,  and  very  great 
ones,  yet  few  of  them  seemed  disposed  to  break  the  Sabbath 
by  travelling  and  other  secular  business.  A  very  few  indulge 
in  something  like  profane  swearing.  Very  few  are  super- 
stitiously  attached  to  their  medicine  men — who  are,  without 
doubt,  sorcerers — and  supposed  to  be  leagued  with  a  super- 
naturcil  being — wakin — who  ihows  himself  somstimcs  in  the 
gray  bear,  the  wolf,  the  swan,  goose,  Avind,  clouds,  etc. 

Lying  is  very  common ;  thieving  comparatively  rare  ;  po- 
lygamy formerly  common,  but  now  rare  ;  much  gambling 
among  the  young  men  ;  quarrelling  and  fighting  quite  rare«; 
habit  of  taking  back  property  after  it  is  sold  is  a  practice 
quite  common,  and  very  evil  in  its  tendency.     All  these  evils, 
I  conceive,  can  be  traced  to  the  want  of  wholesome  laws 
and  well-regulated  society.     There  arc  two  traits  in  the  char- 
acter of  this  people  I  wish  to  notice.     One  I  think  I  can  ac- 
count for  ;  the  other  I  cannot.     It  is  often  said  the  Indian  is 
a  noble-minded  being,  never  forgetting  a  kindness.     So  far 
as  my  experience  has  gone  with  this  people,  the  above  is 
most  emphatically  true,  but  in  quite  a  different  sense  from  the 
idea  there  conveyed.     It  is  true  they  never  forget  a  kindness, 
but  often  make  it  an  occasion  to  ask  another ;  and  if  refused, 
return  insults  recording  to  the  favors  received.     My  experi- 


•<v  -.    pi' 


I  ' 


ri  i:j4 


u 


<«'. 


if' 


203 


TEX  YKAUS   IN    OREGON. 


^nc(i  has  taught  mc  that,  if  I  would  keep  the  frieudship  of 
an  I.idian,  and  do  him  good,  I  must  sliow  him  no  more  favor 
in  tlie  way  of  property  than  what  he  returns  some  kind  of 
an  equivalent  for ;  most  of  our  trials  have  arisen  from  thia 
source.  I  am,  liowevcr,  happy  to  feel  that  theie  is  a  mani- 
fest improvement  as  the  people  become  more  instructed,  and 
we  become  more  acquainted  with  their  habits.  This  ofTen- 
8ive  trait  in  the  Indian  character  1  believe,  in  part,  should  be 
charged  to  the  white  man.  It  has  been  the  universal  prac- 
tice of  all  the  white  men  to  jjive  tobacco,  to  name  no  other 
article  to  Indians  when  they  ask  for  it.  ITence  two  very 
natural  ideas — one  is,  that  the  white  man  is  in  debt  to  them  ; 
the  other  is,  that  in  proportion  as  a  w  hite  man  is  a  good 
man  he  wi'.l  discharge  this  debt  by  giving  bountifully  of  his 
provisions  and  goods.  This  trait  in  Indian  character  is  capa- 
ble of  being  turned  to  the  disadvantage  of  traders,  travel- 
lers, and  missionaries,  by  prejudiced  white  men. 

The  last  trait,  which  I  cannot  account  for,  is  an  apparent 
disregard  for  the  rights  of  white  men.  Although  their  ea- 
gerness to  receive  instruction  in  the  school  on  the  Sabbath 
and  on  the  farm  is  without  a  parallel  in  my  knowledge,  still, 
should  a  reckless  fellow  from  their  own  number,  or  even  a 
stranger,  make  an  attack  on  my  life  and  pioperty,  I  have  no 
evidence  to  suppose  but  a  vast  majority  of  them  would  look 
on  with  indiOTerence,  and  see  our  dwellin<r  burnt  to  the  irround 
and  our  heads  severed  from  our  bodies.  I  cannot  reconcile 
this  seeming  want  of  gratitude  with  their  many  encoura- 
ging characteristics.  But  to  conclude  this  subject,  should 
our  unprofitable  lives,  through  a  kind  Providence,  be  spared 
a  few  years,  by  the  blessing  of  the  God  of  missions,  we  ex- 
pect to  see  this  people  christianized  to  a  great  extent,  civili- 
zed, and  happy,  with  much  of  science  and  the  word  of  God, 


f 


.:5<il:  I 


TEN    TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


209 


livili- 
rod, 


and  m<ny  of  the  comforts  of  life;  but  not  without  many 
days  of  hard  labor,  and  sore  trials  of  disuppoint(:d  hopes, 
and  nameless  perplexities. 

The  number  of  tiiis  people  is  variously  estimated  from  two 
thousand  to  four  thousand.  I  candot  f;ivc  a  correct  esti- 
mate. 

At  this  stiition  there  is  a  dwelling  house,  a  school  house, 
store  house,  flour  and  saw  mills — all  of  a  rough  kind— ^fif- 
teen acres  of  land  under  improvement,  twenty-four  head  of 
cattle,  thirty-six  horses,  sixty-seven  sheep.  Rev.  Messrs. 
Walker  and  Ellis,  I  hope,  will  report  of  Waiilaptu  ;  but 
should  they  fail,  I  will  say,  as  near  as  I  can  recollect,  about 
fifty  acres  of  land  are  cuUivaled  by  some  seventy  individu- 
als ;  a  much  greater  number  of  cattle  and  hogs  than  among 
this  people.  Belonging  to  the  station,  thirty -four  head  of 
cattle,  eleven  horses,  some  forty  hogs  ;  one  dwelling  house 
of  Dobbie's — well  furnished — a  blacksmith's  shop,  flour  mill 
— lately  destroyed  by  fire — and  some  forty  acres  of  land  cul- 
tivated. 

Arable  land. — The  arable  land  in  this  u^  per  country  is 
confined  almost  exclusively  to  the  small  streams,  although 
further  observation  may  prove  that  many  of  the  extensive 
rolling  prairies  are  capable  of  producing  wheat.  They  can 
become  inhabited  only  by  cultivating  timber  ;  but  the  rich 
growth  of  buffalo  grass  upon  them  will  ever  furnish  an  in- 
exhaustible supply  for  inumerable  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep. 
I  know  of  no  country  in  the  world  so  well  adapted  to  the 
herding  system.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  horses,  f-re  invariably 
healthy,  and  produce  rapidly  ;  sheep  usually  twice  a  year. 
The  herding  system  adopted,  the  country  at  first  put  under 
regulations  adapted  to  the  scarcity  of  habitable  places — say 

that  no  settlers  shall  be  allowed  to  take  up  over  twenty  acres 
14 


m 


n 


11  i 


w.' 


■  « 


; 


1 1 ' " 
i 


HW 


210 


TEN   YKAHS   IN    OUKOON. 


of  land  on  the  streams — and  tlio  country  without  doubt  will 
susUiin  ii  great  population.  I  am  happy  to  feel  assured  tlmt 
the  United  States  government  have  no  otiier  thought  than  to 
regard  the  rights  and  wants  of  the  Indian  tribes  in  thb 
country. 

And  while  the  agency  of  Indian  affiiirs  in  this  country  re- 
mains in  the  hands  of  the;  present  agent,  1  have  the  fullest 
confidence  to  believe  tliat  the  reasonable  expectations  in  ref- 
erence to  the  intercourse  between  whites  and  Indians  will  be 
fully  realized  by  every  philanthropist  and  every  Christian. 
But  as  the  Indian  population  is  sparse,  after  they  are  abun- 
dantly supplied,  there  will  be  renainiiig  country  suflicicnt 
for  an  extensive  white  population. 

The  thought  of  removing  tliesc  tribes,  that  the  country 
may  come  wholly  in  the  possession  of  the  whites,  can  never 
for  a  moment  enter  into  the  mind  of  a  fiiend  of  the  red  man, 
for  two  reasons,  to  name  no  other  :  first,  there  are  but  two 
countries  to  which  they  can  be  removed,  the  Grave  and  the 
Dlackfoot,  between  which  theie  is  no  choi'  '•  ;  second,  the 
countless  millions  of  salmon  which  swarm  the  Columbia  and 
its  tributiiries,  and  furnish  a  very  great  proportion  of  the  sus- 
tenance of  the  tribes  who  dwell  upon  these  numerous  waters, 
and  a  substitute  for  which  can  nowhere  be  found  east  or 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  but  in  herds  or  cultivating 
their  own  land. 

Habitable  valleys, — Many  of  the  following  valleys  I  have 
extensively  examined  ;  with  others  I  am  more  or  less  ac- 
quainted from  information.  The  river  Deshutes,  putting  into 
the  Columbia  river,  near  the  Dalles,  from  the  south,  contains, 
without  doubt,  considerable  tillable  land.  The  same  can  be 
said  of  John  Day's  river,  another  tributary  of  the  Columbia 
river,  from  the  south,  forty  miles  above  the  former.     The 


TEN   YKAUS    IN    OREOON. 


211 


Utilla,  jinotl;cr  tfoutli  branch,  Iwonty-five  miles  below  Walla- 


ontains, 
can  bo 
lurabia 
.     The 


ull< 


)f 


»l»lo  land,  peril 


;8uf- 


,  contains  a  <>r(?at  quantity 
ficient  for  one  hundred  and  titty  families.  The  Wallawalla, 
another  south  brunch,  evidently  contains  more  tillable  land, 
including  its  many  branches,  than  any  other  stream  in  tho 
upper  country.  I  judge  that  three  hundred  and  fifty  fami- 
lies could  comfortably  locate  on  this  river  and  its  branchea. 
I  speak  of  white  families.  Probably  it  would  sustain  thrco 
times  that  number  of  Indian  families,  as  they  will  always 
live  more  or  less  upon  fish.  The  mission  station  of  Dr. 
Whitman,  among  the  Keyuse,  is  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Wallawall  I.  The  Wallawalla  river  proper  probably  may  bo 
cultivated  for  thirty  miles;  the  Tusha,  its  principal  branch, 
perhaps  for  fifty  miles  ;  the  Sataksnima,  a  small  branch,  fif- 
teen miles.  On  the  Tshimnap,  Okunagan,  and  some  other 
rivers  coiring  into  the  Columbia  river  from  the  west,  there 
is  said  to  be  more  or  less  tillable  land.  The  Tuckiuian,  a 
south  brunch  of  the  Snake  river,  some  seventy  miles  above 
its  mouth,  contains  some  land  apparently  of  the  best  quality. 
It  resembles  a  piece  in  this  valley,  which  has  produced  one 
thousand  four  hundred  bushels  of  potatoes  to  the  acre. 
The  tillable  land  extends  up  the  Tuckanan,  twelve  miles,  anfl 
about  five  up  the  Pataha,  a  branch.  Probably  sixty  families 
could  locate  here.  This  is  a  favorable  location  for  a  settle- 
ment, by  reason  of  the  advantages  of  the  large  river  for 
transportation  and  rafting  timber.  The  Psduse,  putting  in 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tuckanan,  contains  some  good 
land.  This  valley — Lapwai — will  probably  settle  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  families  of  Indians.  Most  of  the  land  is  al- 
ready taken  up.  Yucktoin,  putting  in  from  the  opposite 
side,  three  miles  above  this,  will  settle  as  many  more.  There 
are  said  to  be  several  other  valleys  between  this  and  the 


■i,< 


W 


y^f 


•■'$'■ 


I 


I 


\   -'^' 


V*- 


I'i  if" 


«12 


TKN    TEARS    IN    ORROOW. 


mouhlains,  conUining  iirublc  liuul.  The  O  and  round  Is  a 
beuutilul  pl.iin,  (il'ty  m'xWs  in  circuit,  on  the  route  from  fort 
Boisi  to  Walliiwalla,  probably  all  susceptible  of  lultivulion. 
It  is  surrounded  by  mountains  and  may  be  frosty.  About 
forty  miles  southeast  of  this  is  anothenich  valley,  of  some 
Ihirty-fivc  miles  in  length,  interspersed  with  1  irge  plats  of 
white  clover,  through  which  a  beautiful  lake  pours  its  cold 
Tfaters  in  a  rapid  liver,  which  unites  with  the  Grand  Hound, 
and  forms  the  Wailua,  a  branch  of  the  Snake  river.  There 
are  three  or  four  other  considerable  streams  putting  into  the 
Snake  river  above  this,  from  the  south,  on  two  or  three  of 
which  there  arc  said  to  be  large  fertile  plains.  1  know  of 
but  very  little  arable  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Salmon  river. 
On  the  Shuhspalanim.t  and  Quaicksnima,  two  considerable 
branches  of  the  Snake  river,  above  Salmon,  there  is  said  to 
be  some  good  land.  Dr.  Whitman  writes  me  from  fort  Hall, 
saying  that  in  his  journey  to  that  place  he  travelled  some 
fifty  miles  up  the  Boisi  liver,  and  thinks  there  is  more  good 
land  on  it  than  on  any  other  stream  with  which  he  is  ac- 
quainted in  this  upper  country. 

There  is  an  extensive  red  clover  plain,  commencing  about 
five  miles  south  of  this  station,  which  I  think  would  pro- 
duce ;  but  there  is  no  timber,  and  very  little  water.  Doubt- 
less many  other  arable  valleys  will  show  themselves,  as  the 
country  becomes  more  thoroughly  explored. 

Your  humble  servant, 

H.  H.  SPALDING. 
Dr.  Whitb, 

Agent  of  Indian  Affaus  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountana. 


1  m 


Vtn   YEARS   IN    OIUCOOV. 


313 


[O. 


CIIAPTEU  XX. 

Excitement  among  tho  Indians — DifTcrpnt  viewaof  (he  alarmed  whites 
— Another  journey — State  of  the  Indians — Mr.  Spalding's  station — 
Nez  IVrccs — Key  uses  and  Walla  wa'lns — Presence  of  the  women  at 
the  feast — Peace — Visit  the  Dalles — Course  of  the  agent — Laws  of 
the  whites — Immigrating  party — Willamette  valley — Gov.  McLaugh- 
lin— False  reports — Schools — Mission  cl:iim — Mr.  Lee — iDslructions 
to  immigrants — Oregon  Institute — Letters. 

Willamette  Valley,  Oregon,  Nov.  15,  1843. 

HoNOuniD  Sir — Since  my  arrival,  I  have  hud  the  honor 
of  addressing  you  some  three  or  four  communicjitlons,  the 
last  of  which  loft  early  in  April,  conveyed  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company's  express  over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  via.  Can- 
ada, which  I  hope  and  judge  was  duly  received. 

Immediately  after  this,  I  received  several  communications 
from  missionaries  of  the  interior,  some  from  the  Methodists, 
and  those  sent  out  by  the  American  board,  representing  the 
Indians  in  the  interior  as  in  a  great  state  of  excitement,  and 
under  much  apprehension  from  the  circumsUince  that  such 
number  of  whites  were  coming  in,  as  they  were  informed,  to 
take  possession  of  their  land  and  country.  The  excitement 
soon  became  general,  both  among  whites  and  Indians,  in  this 
lower  as  well  as  upper  district ;  and  such  were  the  constantly 
floating  groundless  reports,  that  much  uneasiness  was  felt, 
and  some  of  our  citizens  were  under  such  a  state  of  appre- 
hensions as  to  abandon  their  houses,  and  place  themselves 
more  immediately  within  the  precincts  of  the  colony.  As 
in  all  such  cases,  a  variety  of  opinions  were  entertained  and 


214 


TEN   TEAKS   IN    OREO  ON. 


it. 


:ii 


expressed — some  pleading  for  me,  at  the  expense  of  tlie  gen- 
cml  government,  to  throw  up  a  strong  foitification  in  the 
centre  of  the  colony,  and  furnish  tin*  settlers  ^vith  guns  and 
ammunition,  so  that  we  might  be  prepared  for  extremities. 
Others  thought  it  more  advisable  for  me  to  go  with  an  armed 
force  of  considerable  stiength  to  the  heart  and  centre  of  the 
conspiracy,  as  it  '.vas  represented,  and  if  words  will  not  an- 
swer, make  power  and  balls  doit.  A  third  party  en^rjrtain- 
ed  diffoi-ent  views,  and  few  were  really  agreed  on  any  one 
measure. 

As  may  be  imagined,  I  felt  the  awkwardness  of  my  posi- 
tion ;  but,  without  stopping  to  consult  an  agitated  populace, 
selected  a  sensible  clergyman  and  a  single  attendant,  with 
my  interpreter,  and  so  managed  as  to  throw  myself  imme- 
diately into  their  midst  unobserved.  The  measure  had  the 
desired  effect — though,  as  in  my  report  I  will  more  fully  in- 
form you,  had  like  to  have  cost  me  my  life. 

The  Indians  flocked  around  me,  and  inquired  after  my  par- 
ty, and  could  not  be  persuaded,  for  some  time,  but  that  I 
had  a  large  party  concealed  somewhere  near,  and  only  wait- 
ed to  get  them  convened,  to  open  a  fire  upon,  and  cut  thena 
all  off  at  a  blow.  On  convincing  them  of  my  defenceless 
condition  and  pacific  intentions,  they  were  quite  astounded 
and  much  affected,  assuring  me  they  had  been  under  strong 
apprehensions,  having  learned  I  was  soon  to  visit  them  with 
a  lar^c  armed  party,  with  hostile  intentions,  and  I  actually 
found  them  suffering  more  from  fears  of  war  from  the  whites, 
than  the  whites  from  the  Indians — each  party  resolving, 
however,  to  remain  at  home,  and  tliere  fight  to  the  last — 
though,  fortunately,  some  three  or  four  hundred  miles 
apart. 

The  day  following  we  left  these  Wallawallas  and  Keyuses, 


TBN   TEARS  IN    OREGON. 


215 


to  pay  a  \iM  to  the  Ncz  Pcrces,  promising  to  call  on  our  re- 
turn, and  enter  into  a  treaty  of  amity,  if  we  eoulJ  agree  on 
the  terms,  and  wished  them  to  give  general  notice  to  all  con- 
cerned, of  both  tribes. 

In  two  days  we  were  at  Mr.  Spalding's  station.  The  Nez 
Perces  came  together  in  greater  numbers  than  on  any  for- 
mer occasion  for  years,  and  all  the  circumstances  combining 
to  favor  it,  received  us  most  cordially.  Their  improvement 
during  the  winter,  in  reading,  Avriting,  etc.,  was  considera- 
biC,  and  the  enlargement  of  their  plantations,  with  the  in- 
creased variety  and  quantities  of  the  various  kinds  of  grains 
and  products  now  vigorously  shooting  forth,  connected  with 
the  better  state  of  cultivation  and  their  universally  good  fen- 
ces, were  certainly  most  encouraging. 

Spending  some  days  with  this  interesting  tribe,  and  their 
devoted  missionaries,  in  the  pleasantest  manner,  they  accept- 
ed my  invitation  to  visit  with  me  the  Keyusesand  Wallawal- 
las,  and  assist  by  their  influence  to  jring  them  in:o  the  same 
regulation  they  had  previously  adopted,  and  with  which  all 
were  so  well  pleased. 

Mv.  Spalding  and  Ellis,  the  high  chief,  with  every  other 
chief  laid  brave  of  importance,  and  some  four  or  five  hun- 
dred of  the  men  and  their  women,  accompanied  us  to  Wiiii- 
laptu.  Dr.  Whitman's  sUition,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and 
twenty  mile.s,  where  we  met  the  Keyuses  and  Waliawallas 
in  mass,  and  spent  some  five  or  six  days  in  getting  matters 
adjusted  and  piinciples  settled,  so  as  to  receive  the  Keyuses 
into  the  civil  compact ;  wliich  being  done,  and  the  high  chief 
elected,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  both  whites  and  Indians, 
I  ordered  two  fat  oxen  killed,  and  wheat,  sail,  etc.,  distrib- 
uted accordingly.  ***** 

This  was  the  first  feast  at  which  the  Indian  women  of  thia 


:.  <■ 


■ffe 


In 


216 


TEN   YKAR8   IN    OREOOK. 


!  Vi 


country  were  ever  permitted  to  be  present,  but  probably 
will  not  be  the  last ;  for,  after  some  explanation  of  my  rea- 
sons, the  chiefs  were  hiijhly  pleased  with  it ;  and  I  believe 
more  was  done  at  that  feast  to  elevate  and  bring  forward 
their  poor,  oppressed  women  than  could  have  been  done  in 
years  by  private  instruction. 

The  feast  broke  up  in  the  happiest  manner  after  Fivo- 
Crcws,  the  Keyuse  chief,  Ellis,  and  the  old  war  chief  of 
whom  I  made  particular  mention  in  my  last  report  as  being 
BO  well  acquainted  with  Clarke,  and  a  few  others,  had  made 
their  speeches,  and  we  had  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace,  which 
was  done  by  all  in  great  good  humor. 

From  this,  we  proceeded  to  the  Dalles  on  the  Columbia 
river,  where  I  spent  two  months  in  instructing  the  Indians 
of  different  tribes,  who  either  came  in  mass,  or  sent  ambas- 
sadors to  treat  with  me,  or,  as  they  denominate  it,  take  my 
laws,  which  are  thus  far  found  to  operate  well,  giving  them 
greater  security  among  themselves,  and  helping  much  to 
regulate  their  intercourse  with  the  whites.  Beinof  exceed- 
ingly  anxious  to  bring  about  an  improvement  and  reforma- 
tion among  this  people,  I  begged  money  and  procured  arti- 
cles for  clothing  to  the  amount  of  a  few  hundred  dollars,  not 
to  be  given,  but  to  be  sold  out  to  the  industrious  women,  for 
mats,  baskets,  and  their  various  articles  of  manufacture,  in 
order  to  get  them  clothed  comfortably  to  appear  at  church ; 
enlisted  the  cheerful  co-operation  of  the  mission  idies  in  in- 
structing them  how  to  sew  and  make  up  their  dresses  ;  and 
had  the  happiness  to  see  some  twenty  of  these  neatly  clad  at 
divine  service,  and  a  somewhat  larger  number  out  in  the  hap- 
piest mood  to  a  feast  I  ordered  them,  at  which  the  mission 
ladies  and  gentlemen  were  present. 

During  these  two  months  I  labored  hurd,  \isiting  many 


i»  • 


IP 


TBN   TEARS   IN    OREOOK. 


217 


of  their  sick  daily  ;  and  by  the  most  promf)t  and  kind  atten- 
tion, and  sympathizing  with  them  in  their  affliction,  encour- 
aging the  industrious  and  virtuous,  and  frowning  in  hmguago 
and  looks  upon  the  vic'ous,  I  am  satisfied  good  was  done. 
They  gave  evidence  of  attachment ;  and  my  influence  was 
manifestly  increased,  as  well  as  the  laws  more  thoroughly 
understood,  by  reason  of  my  remaining  so  long  among  them. 

During  my  up-country  excursion,  the  whites  of  the  colo- 
ny convened,  and  formed  a  code  of  laws  to  regulate  inter- 
couise  between  themselves  during  the  absence  of  law  from 
our  mother  country,  adopting  in  almost  all  respects  the  Iowa 
code.  In  this  I  was  consulted,  and  encouraged  the  meas- 
ure, as  it  was  so  manifestly  necessary  for  the  collection  of 
debts,  securing  rights  in  claims,  and  the  regulation  of  gen- 
eral intercourse  among  the  whites. 

Thus  far,  these  laws  have  been  of  some  force  and  impor- 
tance, answering  well  in  cases  of  trespass  and  the  collec- 
tion of  debts ;  but  it  is  doubtful  how  they  would  succeed  in 
criminal  affairs,  especially  if  there  should  happen  to  be  a 
division  of  sentiment  in  the  public  mind. 

The  Indians  of  this  lower  country,  as  was  to  be  expected, 
give  considerable  trouble,  and  are  most  vexatious  subjects  to 
deal  with.  In  mind  the  weakest  and  most  depraved  of  their 
race,  and  physically,  thoroughly  contaminated  with  the 
scrofula,  and  a  still  more  loathsome  disease  entailed  by  the 
whites  ;  robbed  of  their  game  and  former  means  of  cover- 
ing ;  lost  to  the  use  of  the  bow  and  arrow  ;  laughed  at, 
scoffed,  and  contemned  by  the  whites,  and  a  hiss  and  by- 
word to  the  surrounding  tribes,  ihey  are  too  dejected  and 
depressed,  to  feel  the  least  pleasure  in  their  former  amuse- 
ments, and  wander  about  seeking  generally  a  scanty  pittance 
by  begging  and  pilfering,  but  the  more  ambitious  and  des- 


P  I: 


jf  ■'  -' 


,■  '^ 


218 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


l 


r. 


perate  among  tlicm  stealing,  and  in  some  instances  plunder- 
ing on  a  large  scale.  Were  it  not  that  greater  forbearance 
is  exercised  towards  tliem  than  whites  generally  exercise, 
bloodshed,  anarchy,  and  confusion  would  reign  piedomimmt 
among  us.  But,  thus  far,  it  is  but  just  to  say,  the  Indians 
have  been,  in  almost  every  instance,  the  aggressors  ;  and 
though  none  of  us  now  apprehend  an  Indian  war  or  inva- 
sion, it  appears  to  me  morally  impossible  that  geneial  quiet 
can  long  be  secure,  unless  government  take  almost  immedi- 
ate measures  to  relieve  the  anxieties  and  better  the  condiuoa 
of  these  poor  savages  and  other  Indians  of  this  country.  I 
am  doing  what  I  can,  by  reason  of  my  profession,  with  lend- 
ing them  all  the  assistance  possible  in  sickness,  and  sympa- 
thizing with  them  in  their  numerous  afflictions,  and  occa- 
sionally feeding,  feasting,  and  giving  them  little  tokens  of 
kind  regard,  have  as  yet  considerable  influence  over  them, 
but  have  to  punish  some,  and  occasion  the  chiefs  to  punish 
more,  which  creates  me  enemies,  and  must  eventuate  in  les- 
sening my  influence  among  them,  unless  the  means  arc  put 
in  my  hands  to  sustain  and  encourage  the  chiefs  and  well- 
disposed  among  them.  Good  words,  kind  looks,  and  medi- 
cine, have  i^ome  power  ;  but,  honored  and  very  dear  sir,  you 
and  /  know  they  do  not  tell  with  Indians  like  blankets  and 
present  articles,  to  meet  their  tastes,  wants,  and  necessities. 
Sir,  I  know  how  deeply  anxious  you  are  to  benefit  and  save 
what  can  be  of  the  withering  Indian  tribes,  in  which  God 
knows  how  fully  and  heartily  I  am  with  you,  and  earnestly 
pray  you,  and  through  you  our  general  government,  to  Uike 
immediate  measures  to  satisfy  the  minds,  and,  so  far  as  pos- 
sible, render  to  these  Indians  an  equivalent  for  their  once  nu- 
merous herds  of  deer,  elk,  buffalo,  beaver,  and  otter,  nearly 
as  tame  as  our  domestic  animals,  previously  to  the  whites  and 


TSK   TKAR8    IK  OREGON. 


219 


their  fi -c  arms  coming  among  them,  and  of  which  (hoy  are 
now  snipped,  and  for  which  they  suffer.  But,  if  nothing 
can  be  (htne  for  them  on  this  score,  pray  sav(^  them  from  be- 
ing f(>;-c:ihly  ejected  from  the  lands  and  graves  of  tlieir  fath- 
ers, of  which  they  begin  to  entertain  serious  fears.  Many 
are  becoming  considerably  enlightened  on  the  subject  of  the 
white  man's  policy,  and  begin  to  quake  in  view  of  their  fu- 
ture doom  ;  and  come  to  me  fiom  time  to  time,  anxiously  in- 
quiiing  what  they  are  to  receive  for  such  an  one  coming  and 
cutting  off  all  their  most  valuable  timber,  and  floatinrj  it  to 
the  falls  of  the  Willamette,  and  getting  large  sums  for  it ; 
some  praying  the  removal  of  licentious  whites  from  among 
them ;  others  requiring  pay  for  their  old  homestead,  or  a  re- 
moval of  the  intruders.  So,  sir,  you  see  already  I  have  my 
hands,  head  and  heart  full  ;  and  if  as  yet  I  have  succeeded 
in  giving  satisfaction — as  many  hundreds  that  neither  know 
nor  care  for  me,  nor  rejjard  in  the  least  the  rijjhts  of  the  In- 
dians  are  now  flocking  in — something  more  must  be  done, 
and  that  speedily,  or  a  storm  ensues. 

I  remove  all  licentious  offenders  from  among  them,  espe- 
cially if  located  a  distance  from  the  colony,  and  encourage 
the  community  to  keep  within  bounds,  and  settle  as  com- 
pactly as  the  general  interest  and  duty  to  themselves  w^ill 
admit. 

The  large  immigrating  party  have  now  arrived,  most  of 
them  with  their  herds,  having  left  the  wagons  at  Wallawalla 
and  the  Dalles,  which  they  intend  to  bring  by  land  or  water 
to  the  Willamette  in  the  spring.  Whether  they  succeed  in 
getting  them  through  by  land  the  last  sixty  miles  is  doubt- 
ful, the  road  not  having  been  as  yet  well  exploied.  They 
are  greatly  plea.'^ed  with  the  country  and  its  prospects.  Mr. 
Applegate,  who  has  been  so  much  ir  government  employ 


. "  ^f, 


220 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREOOK. 


'•| 


1 1  ■  •. , 


1-1 


and  surveyed  such  portions  of  the  Missouri,  says  of  this  val- 
ley, it  is  a  country  of  the  greatest  beauty  and  the  finest  soil 
he  his  seen. 

Having  visited  larger  portions,  and  in  different  directions, 
the  last  summer  than  heretofore-^principally  in  the  moun- 
tainous parts  between  this  and  tlie  Dalles — I  am  most  cheer- 
ful in  saying  I  have  not  seen  a  country  presenting  such  a 
variety  of  beautiful  scenery,  and  possessing,  at  the  same 
time,  such  advantages  of  timber,  water,  strength  of  soil,  and 
mildness  of  climate ;  and,  as  to  health,  having  visited  six- 
teen of  the  United  States,  the  Sandwich  islands,  with  some 
other  portions  of  the  earth,  I  must  say,  after  practising  med- 
icine somewhat  extensively  for  the  last  six  years,  I  regard  it 
the  most  healihy  country  with  which  I  am  acquainted  ;  dis- 
eases the  least  numerous  in  class,  and  simple  in  character, 
being  entirely  under  the  control  of  proper  remedies. 

The  settlers  are  actively  and  vigorously  employed,  and  the 
colony  in  a  most  prosperous  state  ;  crops  of  every  kind  hav- 
ing been  unusually  good  this  season.  The  little  unhappy 
difference  between  the  American  settlers  and  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  arising  from  the  last  spring's  petition  to  our 
government,  has  been  healed,  and  we  have  general  quiet — 
both  parties  conducting  very  properly  towards  each  other  at 
present.  And  here  allow  me  to  say,  the  seasonable  service 
in  which  hundreds  of  dollars  were  gratuitously  expended  in 
assisting  such  numbers  of  our  poor  emigrant  citizens  down 
the  Columbia  to  the  Willamette,  entitle  Gov.  McLa^orhlin, 
saying  nothing  of  his  previous  fatherly  and  fostering  care  of 
this  colony,  to  the  honorable  consideration  of  the  members 
of  this  government.  And  I  hope,  as  he  is  desirous  to  settle 
with  his  family  in  this  country,  and  has  made  a  claim  at  the 
falls  of  the  Willamette,  his  claim  will  be  honored  in  such  a 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


221 


innnncr  as  to  make  liim  conscious  that  wc,  as  a  nation,  are 
not  insensible  to  his  numerous  acts  of  benevolence  and  hos- 
pitality towards  our  countrymen.  Sir,  in  the  midst  of  slan- 
der, envy,  jealousy,  and,  in  too  many  instances,  of  the  black- 
est ingratitude,  his  unceasing,  never  tiling  hospitality  aiTects 
me,  and  makes  him  appear  in  a  widely  different  light  than  too 
many  would  have  hi/n  and  his  worthy  associates  appear  be- 
fore the  world. 

The  last  year's  report,  in  which  was  incorporated  Mr. 
Linn's  Oregon  Speech  and  Captahi  Spalding's  statements  of 
hundreds  of  unoffending  Indians  being  shot  down  annually 
by  men  under  his  control,  afllicts  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  is  utterly  without  foundation — no 
company  or  gentlemen  ever  having  conducted  more  judi- 
ciously among  Indiums  than  they  uniformly  have  done  in  this 
country  ;  and  I  am  of  the  Governor's  opinion,  who  declares, 
openly,  there  have  not  ten  Indians  been  killed  by  whites  in 
this  whole  region  west  of  Fort  Hall,  for  the  last  twenty 
years,  nor  do  I  know  of  that  number,  and  two  of  those  were 
killed  by  our  citizens.  "What  were  destroyed  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  suffered  for  wilful  murder,  none  pre- 
tending a  doubt  of  the  propriety  of  the  course  adopted. 

There  are  now  four  schools  kept  in  the  colony,  of  which  I 
shall  speak  more  fully  in  my  annual  report — one  at  the  Pal- 
atine Plains,  under  the  direction  and  au?  pices  of  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Clark,  a  self-supporting  missionary  ;  a  second — French 
and  English — school,  is  in  succes.sful  operation  by  Mr.  Dlan- 
chette,  Roman  Catholic  missionary  to  this  colony  ;  a  third  ia 
w^ell  supported  by  the  citizens,  and  kept  at  the  fulls  of  the 
Wilhimette  ;  a  fourth — boarding  and  manual  labor — sustain- 
ed by  the  Methodist  board  of  missions,  for  the  benefit  of  In- 
dian youth,  of  which  Mr.  Lee  will  speak  particularly.     The 


i 


222 


TEN    YttARS   IN   ORKOON. 


■'     ^ 


P 


location  is  liealili}',  eligible,  and  beautiful,  and  llie  noble  ed- 
ifice does  honor  to  the  benevolent  cause  and  agents  that 
founded  it.  And  while  here,  allow  me  to  say  Mr.  Jesse  Ap- 
plegate,  fiom  Missouri,  is  now  surveying  the  mission  claim, 
a  plan  of  which  will  be  presented  to  the  consideraiion  of  the 
mL'mbor.s  of  our  government,  for  acceptance  or  ollurwise,  of 
■Nvhioh  1  have  but  little  to  say,  as  I  entertain  no  doubt  Mr. 
Lee's  representation  will  be  most  faithful.  Should  the 
ground  of  his  claim  be  predicated  upon  the  much  effected 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians,  I  Jim  not  with  him ;  for, 
with  all  that  has  been  expended,  without  doubting  iho  cor- 
rectness of  the  ntenlion,  it  is  most  manifest  to  every  observer 
that  the  Indians  of  this  lower  country,  as  a  whole,  have  been 
veiy  liule  benefitted.  They  were  too  far  gone  wilh  scrofula 
and  veneieal.  Cut  should  he  insist,  as  a  reason  of  h's  claim, 
the  benefit  arising  to  the  colony  and  country,  I  am  w  ilh  him 
heartily  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  claim  is  a  valuable  one, 
this  country  has  been  increased  more  by  the  mission  opera- 
tions, tlian  twice  its  amount  in  finance ;  besides,  much  has 
been  done  in  advancing  civilization,  temperance,  literature, 
and  good  morals,  saying  nothing  of  the  evils  that  must  have 
arisen  in  this  lawless  country  in  the  absence  of  all  moral  re- 
straint. Mr.  Lee  was  among  the  first  pioneers  to  this  distant 
land,  has  struggled  in  its  cajes,  toils,  and  trials,  has  lisen 
with  its  lise ;  and  it  is  but  just  to  say,  he  and  his  associates 
are  e.xeriing  a  considerable  and  most  salutary  influence  all 
abroad  among  us.  I  hope  liis  reception  will  be  such  that  he 
will  return  fiom  Washington  cheered  and  encouraged  to 
pursue  his  bsnevolent  operations  in  this  country.  The  Cath- 
olic and  the  different  Protestiint  missions  have  been  pros- 
perous during  the  last  year,  and  are  as  generally  acciptiiblc 


1*- 


TEN  YEARS   IN   OREGOV. 


223 


to  l1;e  wliitc'S  as  could,  from  their  diffuront  f  ur.-uits,  be  ex- 
pected. 
******* 

In  ('lo>in<r,  allow  me  to  say,  for  Iho  instruction  and  cn- 
courajrenu'nt  of  immigrants: — Come  liglit,  save  with  provis- 
ions, and  travel  compactly.  Heed  this  last  injunction  by  nil 
means,  so  far  at  least  as  not  less  than  fifty  to  bo  found  aloof 
from  the  main  camp,  and  you  will  save  yourselves  from  dan- 
ger and  wrong,  and  the  Indians  from  temptation  and  guilt. 
Last  spring  I  addressed  a  communication  to  the  present  im- 
migrating party,  meeting  them  at  Fort  Hall,  urging  upon 
them,  from  a  variety  of  consid(!rations,  the  same;  directions, 
a  part  only  of  Avhom  followed  them — oth<'rs  came  strolling 
along  in  little  bands  of  from  two  to  six,  and,  as  was  to  be 
expected,  scarcely  any  escaped  without  being  robbed  and 
pillaged.  Such  conduct  is  highly  censurable,  as  it  tends 
directly  to  encourajje  and  embolden  the  Indians  to  their  hurt 
and  our  ruin.  By  travelling  compactly,  and  treating  the 
Indians  kindly,  but  with  proper  re.sorve,  and  at  all  times 
keeping  a  vigilant  watch,  no  danger  is  to  be  apprehen- 
ded to  person  or  property  ;  but  without  these  regula- 
tions  there  is  danger.  Have  no  apprehension  of  want ;  it 
is  a  land  of  plenty;  and,  after  along  and  well  contested 
debate,  a  few  months  since,  at  our  Oregon  lyceum,  it  was 
unanimously  voted,  that  the  colony  of  Willamette  held  out 
the  mo:it  ilattei  ing  encouragement  to  immigrants  of  any  col- 
ony on  the  globe.  Great  expectations  are  entertained,  from 
the  fact  that  VlT.  Linn's  bill  has  passed  the  senate ;  and  as  it 
has  be-n  so  long  before  the  public,  and  favorably  entertained 
at  Washington,  should  it  at  last  fail  of  passing  the  lower 
house,  sutler  me  to  predict,  in  view  of  what  so  many  have 
had  to  undergo,  in  person  and  property,  to  get  to  this  dis- 


§1 


m 


224 


TE>?    7KARS   IK    ORKOOM. 


I  .' 


i   v..  .. 


tant  country,  it  Avill  croatc  a  disafToetion  ko  strong  as  to  end 
only  in  open  robcllion  ;  whereas,  should  it  pass  into  a  law,  it 
will  be  regarded  as  most  liberal  and  hand^onric,  and  \\ill  bo 
appreciated  by  most,  if  not  all  in  Oregon. 

As  to  the  cliim  for  the  Oregon  institute,  I  need  say  no- 
thing, having  said  enough  in  my  last  report;  but,  as  that 
may  have  failed  in  rcaehing,  I  would  just  remark,  that  the 
location  is  a  heabhy  one,  and  the  site  fine,  with  prospect 
charmingly  varied,  extensive  and  beautiful, 

I  leave  this  sultject  with  Mr.  Lee  and  the  members  of  our 
liberal  government,  not  doubling  but  that  all  will  be  done 
for  this  institute,  and  otherwise,  that  can  be,  and  as  soon  as 
practicable,  to  lay  deep  and  broad  the  foundation  of  science 
and  literature  in  this  country. 

And  here  I  must  close,  as  Mr,  Lee  is  already  sixty  miles 
on  his  way,  but  not  without  saying  I  am  much  obliged  in 
getting  your  last  report,  which  reached  me  a  few  weeks 
since,  and  shall  feel  still  more  obliged  and  honored  in  getting 
a  communication  from  your  own  pen,  enlightening,  correct- 
ing, encouraging,  or  admonishing  me,  in  my  new  and  diffi- 
cult woik,  and  certainly  most  awkward  position,  in  which,  Jia 
yet,  I  have  succeeded  better  with  both  whites  and  Indians 
than  I  expected,  and  can  but  hope  some  good  has  been  ef- 
fected by  my  appointment,  especially  to  the  latter. 

As  my  former  worthy  interpreter  is  de.id,  allow  me  to 
priy  the  appointment  of  Ellis,  the  high  chief  of  the  Nez  Per- 
ccs,  in  his  stead,  who  is  not  only  versed  in  his  own  tongue 
and  the  Wallawallas,  but  an  English  scholar,  and  a  man  of 
sense.  As  he  is  so  well  regarded,  his  appointment  will  have 
a  good  influence  both  among  whites  and  Indians. 

I  have  kept  within  limit  of  the  three  hundred  dollars  for 
interpreters  the  last  year,  being  under  the  necessity  of  paying 


Wl 


I  <'l 


TKH   TKAR8   IN    OUKaON. 


22fi 


or 


one  hundred  and  eighty  dollars  for  .sixty  days' service  at  one 
tinoc,  and  in  no  instance  short  of  a  dollar  per  day,  though  I 
hire  as  I  want,  and  dismiss  at  once  on  closing  present  busi- 
)ioss — this  being  the  only  way  T  could  hope  to  give  the  de- 
partment satisfaction,  in  view  of  the  multiplicity  of  tribes 
and  languages  this  side  the  mountains.  I  have  sent  for  and 
been  hourly  expecting  my  bills  from  Vancouver,  but,  from 
some  cause  unknown  to  me,  they  have  not  yet  reached,  and 
by  this  reason  I  am  prevented  sending  at  this  time  my  quar- 
terly report  of  expenditure — a  circumstance  I  regret,  and  did 
not  expect ;  but,  aside  from  interpreter,  travelling  expenses, 
and  for  office  contingencies,  it  is  small,  and  shall  be  forwarded 
at  my  earliest  convenience.  The  sum  allowed  for  feeding 
and  feasting  Indians,  as  provisions  are  very  high — beef  be- 
ing worth  from  five  to  seven  dollars  per  hundred,  pork  from 
eight  to  ten  dollars,  wheat,  corn,  barley,  and  peas,  a  dollar, 
and  potatoes  forty  cents — proves  hardly  sufficient  to  give 
satisfaction.  The  erection  of  my  little  office,  at  the  expense 
of  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars,  I  hope  and  trust, 
with  my  actual  travelling  expenses,  will  be  paid.  If  this 
cannot  be  done  consistently,  pray  call  me  liomc  at  once. 

As  I  notified  you  in  my  report,  I  cannot  sell  drafts  paya- 
ble in  Washington,  and  await  your  order  to  draft  on  London 
for  at  least  one  thousand  dollars  per  annum,  as,  foi  the  last 
year,  for  interpreter  and  ray  travelling  expenses,  with  office 
contingencies  and  preronts  to  Indians,  I  have  been  under  the 
necessity  of  drafting  more  from  Vancouver  than  I  expected 
— the'  Indian  excitement  and  threatened  invasion  rendering 
tixis  unavoidable.     I^espectfully  yours, 

ELIJAH  WHITE, 
Sub-Agent  Indian  Aff'airs,  W.  R.  M. 

Hon.  J.  M.  PoBTKR,  Secretary  of  War. 
16 


. 


Ul'' 


22G  TEN  YEAIW   IN    OREQOK. 

Willamettr,  March  18,  1844. 

Sir — On  the  evening  of  the  first  F(;bruary,  the  two  fol- 
lowing letters  came  to  me,  finding  me  in  the  upper  settle- 
ment of  the  Willamette,  distance  forty  miles : 

Willamette  Falls,  January  24,  1844. 

"Dkar  Sir — The  undersigned  would  take  this  occasion 
to  inform  you  that  there  has  been  of  late  in  this  place  some 
few  cases  of  intoxication  from  the  effects  of  ardent  spirits. 
It  is  currently  reported  that  it  is  distilled  in  this  place,  and 
the  undersigned  have  good  reason  to  credit  such  reports. 
Whilst,  therefore,  the  undersigned  will  not  trouble  you,  sir, 
with  a  detailed  exposition  of  the  facts,  they  must  be  permit- 
ted to  express  their  deliberate  conviction  that  that  which  has 
inflicted  so  much  injury  upon  the  morals,  the  peace,  and  the 
happiness  of  the  world,  ought  not  to  be  permitted  to  be 
manufactured  in  this  country  under  any  circumstances.  And 
your  attention  is  respectfully  invited  to  this  subject. 
"We  have  the  honor  to  be,  dear  sir, 

"PETER  11.  HATCH,  President. 
"A.  F.  LOVEJOY,  Vice  President. 
"  A.  F.  WALLER,  Sccretar}-. 
"Dr.  E.  White, 

Sub-Agem  of  Indian  Affairs  for  Oregon  Tenitory. 


"  Willamette  Falls,  January  26,  1844. 

"  Dear  Sir — I  do  not  know  but  you  have  been  written 
to  already  on  the  subject  which  is  the  cause  of  no  inconsid- 
erable excitement  at  this  place,  viz : — ^The  manufacture  and 
use  of  that  most  degrading,  withering,  and  damning  of  all 
the  causes  that  has  ever  visited  our  race  since  the  fall  of 


TXK   YEARS   IN   ORBOOK. 


22: 


'V* 


Adam.     As  much  iis  we  regret  it,  deplore  it,  and  anathema 
tize  the  man  who  made  it,  it  is  nevertheless  made,  and  men, 
or  rather  biped  brutes,  get  drunk.     Now,  we  believe  if  there 
is  any  thing  that  calls  your  attention  in  your  oflRcial  capacity^ 
or  any  thing  in  which  you  would  be  most  cordially  support 
ed  by  the  good  sense  and  prompt  action  of  the  better  part 
of  the  community,  it  is  the  present  case.     We  do  not  wish  to 
dictate,  but  hope  for  the  best,  begging  pardon  for  intmsions 
"I  am,  dear  sir,  yours  truly,       W.  H.  WILSON. 
^'R  White,  Sub-Agent  Oregon  Territory." 


^■■t 


'!•■'! 


■i;t„ 


*'*f 


■I  i- 


ns 


TEN   -JUAllS   IN   O^T.iit''^, 


■till 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Kfanufiicltnre  of  liquors — Breaking  up  a  distillery — Conduct  of  Cock- 
•tool^,  an  Indian — Affray — Killing  of  Cockstock — Dt^aths  from  poi- 
soned arrows — Interview  with  the  Indiana — Prerious  frightful  affair 
with  Cockstock — Alarming  visit  of  fift-eu  In^'ians — Cold  Bloodcrf 
murder-— Presems  to  Cockstock's  widow — Protection  required — Let- 
ter from  Mr.  Hines — Meeting  of  the  legislative  body — Resolution — 
Unhappy  affray — Condact  in  courts — Resources  of  the  country — Soil 
of  Oregor — Arrival  of  Rev.  Mr.  Deamitt,  nuns  and  priests — Port — 
Export?— Imports — Tour- -Schools — Quiet  among  the  Indians — 
Note  from  Mr  Littlejohn — Fidelity  of  tiie  Indians — Reasons  for  pre- 
venting the  gale  of  liquor — Enactment  of  the  legislative  committee 
of  Oregon— An  act  to  provide  ways  and  means. 

I  ACCORDINGLY  left  at  sunrisc  on  tiie  following  morning,and' 
reached  the  falls  at  snnset.  Without  delay,  I  secured  the 
criminal  and  his  distillery,  broke  his  apparatus,  and  buried  it 
ill  the  Willamette  river.  I  put  the  aggressor  under  bonds, 
in  the  strongest  penalty  the  nature  of  the  case  would  admit, 
4hree  hundred  dollars — few  being  v.iriing  to  be  his  bondmen 
even  for  this  amount. 

Mr.  Pettygrove,  a  merchant  ol  good  habits  and  character, 
being  accused  of  keeping  and  selling  wine  and  brandy,  I 
.searched,  and  found,  rs  he  had  acknowledged,  a  half  gallon 
of  brandy,  and  part  of  a  barrel  of  port  wine,  which  has  been 
used  and  occasionally  parted  with  only  for  medicinal  purpo- 
.s«3 ;  and,  to  avoid  all  appearance  of  partiality,  I  required  the 
delivery  of  the  brandy  and  wine  on  the  delivery  of  a,e  en- 
closed bond,  which  wa^  most  cheerfully  and  cordially  given — 


.'I 


i'         IHf ' 


TK'S   YEARS    IN   OREQON, 


220 


amount  one  thousand  dollars.  I  searched  every  suspiciout 
place  thoroughly,  aided  by  the  citizens,  but  found  no  ardent 
spirits  or  wine  in  the  colony.  Since  this  period,  no  attempt 
has  been  made  to  make,  introduce  or  vend  liquors ;  and  the 
great  majority  of  the  colonists  come  warmly  to  ray  support 
in  this  matter,  proffering  their  aid  to  keep  this  bane  from  our 
community. 

On  the  evening  of  February  20,  I  received  the  following 
communication,  accompanied  by  corroboratory  statements 
from  Mr.  Foster,  of  Oregon  city  : 

"  Willamette  Falls,  February  16,  i34/. 

"Sm — I  beg  leave  to  inform  you  that  there  is  an  Indian 
about  this  place,  by  the  name  of  '  Cocl<stock,'  who  is  in  the 
habit  of  raakinor  continual  threats  ajrainst  the  settlers  in  Ihis- 
neighborhood,  and  who  has  also  murdered  several  Indianis 
lately.  He  has  conducted  himself  lately  in  so  outrageous  a 
manner,  that  Mr.  Winslo\y  Anderson  has  considered  himself 
in  personal  dinger,  and  on  that  account  has  left  his  place, 
and  come  to  reside  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette ;  and  wcro 
I  ia  cin^umstances  that  I  could  possibly  remove  from  my 
place,  I  would  cei  tainly  remove  also,  but  am  so  situated  that 
it  is  not  possible  for  me  to  do  so.  I  beg,  therefore,  that  you, 
tiir,  will  take  into  consideration  the  propriety  of  ridd.ng  the 
country  of  a  villian,  .against  the  depradations  of  whom  nonr 
cm  be  safe,  as  it  is  impossible  to  guard  against  the  lurking 
attacks  of  the  midnight  murderer.  I  have  therefore  taken 
the  liberty  of  informing  you  that  I  shall  be  in  expectation  of 
a  decided  answer  from  you  on  or  before  the  10th  of  Maroh 
next ;  after  that  date  I  shall  consider  myself  justified  in  act- 
ing as  I  shall  see  fit,  on  any  repetition  of  the  threats  made 


,11 

lid 

■:^\ 
I  1 
;':  » 

m 

'01 

■it 


■If 

ill 


^gw 


I  'i 


15' 


230 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


by  the  before-mentioned  Indian  or  his  party.     I  am,  <fec., 
with  respect, 

"JAMB'S  D.  SAULES, 
"Dr.  E.  White,  Superintendent,  <fec/' 

As  I  well  knew  all  the  individuals  concerned,  I  resolved 
to  repair  immediately  to  the  spot,  and,  if  possible,  secure 
the  Indian  without  bloodshed,  as  he  was  connected  with 
^me  of  the  most  formidable  tribes  in  this  part  of  the  terri- 
tory, though  a  very  dangerous  and  violent  character.  Ac- 
cordingly, I  started,  and  reached  the  falls  the  following  even  • 
mg,  collected  a  party  to  repair  to  the  spot,  and  secure,  hir^ 
whilst  asleep,  knowing  that  he  Avould  not  submit  to  be  t  ki- : 
a  prisoner  without  resistance.  '  The  evening  was  stormy,  and 
the  distance  some  eight  miles,  through  thick  wood  and  fal- 
len timber,  with  two  bad  streams  to  cross.  Being  on  foot, 
my  party  declined  the  attempt  till  morning — a  circumstance 
I  much  regretted  ;  yet,  saving  no  military  force,  I  was  com- 
pelled to  yield.  In  the  morning  I  headed  the  party  of  ten 
men  to  take  this  Indian,  who  had  only  five  adherents,  in 
hopes  to  surprise  and  secure  hun  without  fighting — enjoin- 
ing my  men,  from  many  considerations,  not  to  fire  unless 
ordered  to  do  so  in  self-defence.  Unfortunately,  two  horses 
had  just  been  stolen  and  a  house  plundered,  and  the  Indians 
absconded,  leaving  no  doubt  on  our  minds  of  their  being  the 
thieves,  as  after  tracking  them  two  or  thrcc  miles  into  the 
forest,  they  had  split  off  in  such  a  manner  as  to  elude  pur- 
suit, and  we  were  forced  to  return  to  town  unsuccessful,  as 
further  purpiiit  was  little  more  rational  than  chasing  an  ea- 
gle to  the  mountains.  Cockstock  had  s^\orn  vengeance 
against  several  of  ray  party,  and  they  thirsted  for  his  blood. 
Having  no  other  means  of  securing  him,  I  offered  one  hun- 


TBN   TEARS  IK    OUEOON. 


231 


u 


« • 


f  • 


dred  dollars  reward  to  any  who  would  deliver  him  safely  into 
my  hands,  as  I  wished  to  convey  him  for  trie!  to  tlie  author- 
ities constituted  among  the  Nez  Perccs  and  Key  uses,  not 
doubting  that  they  would  feel  honored  in  inflicting  a  just 
sentence  upon  bira,  and  the  colony  thereby  be  saved  from 
an  Indian  war.  so  much  to  be  dreaded  in  our  present  weak 
and  defenceless  condition. 

Some  six  days  subsequent,  Cockstock  and  his  party,  tix 
in  all,  came  into  town  at  mid-day,  rode  from  house  to  house, 
showing  their  loaded  pistols,  and  not  allowing  any  one,  by 
artifice  or  flatter} ,  to  get  them  out  of  his  bosom  or  hand. 
He  and  his  party  were  horridly  painted,  and  rode  about  the 
town,  setting,  as  the  citizens  and  especially  his  enemies  con- 
strued it,  the  whole  town  at  defiance.  The  citizens  endured 
it  for  several  hours,  but  wiili  great  impatience,  when  at 
length  he  crossed  the  river,  and  entered  the  Indian  viUage 
opposite,  and,  as  the  chief  states,  labored  for  some  time  to 
induce  them  to  join  him  and  burn  doAvn  the  town  that  night, 
destroying  as  many  of  the  whites  as  possible.  FaiUng  in 
this — if  serious  or  correct  in  statement,  which  is  much  doubt- 
ed by  some,  as  the  chief  and  the  whole  Indian  village  were 
inimical  to  him,  and  doubtless  wished,  as  he  was  a  "  brave," 
to  make  the  whites  the  instrument  of  his  destruction — he 
obtained  an  interpreter  and  re-crossed  the  river,  as  other  In- 
dians state,  for  the  purpose  of  calling  the  whites  to  an  ex- 
planation for  pursuing  him  with  hostile  intentions.  By  this 
time,  the  excitement  had  become  intense  with  all  classes, 
und  both  sexes  amongst  the  whites ;  and,  as  was  to  be  ex- 
pected, tliey  ran  in  confusion  and  disorder  towards  the  point 
where  the  Indians  were  landing — some  to  take  him  alive  and 
get  the  reward,  others  to  shoot  him  at  any  risk  to  them- 
selves,  the  wealthiest  men  in  town  promising  to  stand  by 


t     ' 

'r.'il 


1  ,- 


/     v 


m 

Hi 

1 

1 

1 

i 

V 

,  .1 1. 

vi'v' 

232 


TEN   YKAU3  IN    O REG  OK. 


them  to  the  amount  of  one  thousand  dollars  each.  With 
these  different  views,  and  no  concert  of  action,  and  many 
running  merely  to  witness  the  affray,  the  Indians  were  met 
at  the  landing,  and  a  firing  simultaneously  commenced  on 
both  sides,  each  party  accusing  the  other  of  firing  first.  In 
the  midst  of  a  hot  firing  on  both  sides,  Mr.  George  W.  Le 
Breton,  a  respectable  young  man,  rushed  unarmed  upon 
Cockstock,  after  the  discharge  of  one  or  more  of  his  pistols, 
and  received  a  heavy  discharge  in  the  palm  of  his  right  hand, 
lodging  one  ball  in  his  elbow  and  another  in  his  arm,  two 
inches  i>  o*  n  <he  elbow  joint.  A  scufl[le  ensued,  in  which 
he  fell  witi  :;  Indian,  crying  out  instantly,  "he  is  killing 
me  with  his  knife."  At  this  moment,  a  mulatto  man  ran  up, 
named  Winslow  Anderson,  and  despatched  Cockstock,  by 
breaking  in  his  skull  with  the  ban*el  of  his  rifle,  using  it  as  a 
soldier  would  a  bayonet.  In  the  mean  time,  the  other  Indi- 
ans were  firing  among  the  whites  in  every  direction,  with 
guns,  pistols  and  poisoned  arrows,  yelling  fearfully,  and 
many  narrowly  escaped.  Two  men  who  were  quietly  at 
work  near  by,  were  wounded  with  arrows — Mr.  Wilson 
slightly  in  the  hip,  and  Mr.  Rogers  in  the  muscle  of  the  arm 
— but  neither,  as  w^as  supposed,  dangerously.  The  five  In- 
dians, having  shot  their  guns  and  arrows,  retired  towards  the 
bluff  east  of  the  town,  lodged  themselves  in  the  rocks,  and 
again  commenced  firing  upon  the  citizens  indiscriminately. 
Attention  was  soon  directed  that  way,  and  the  fire  arms  hav- 
ing been  brought,  the  Indians  were  soon  routed,  killing  one 
of  their  horses,  and  wounding  one  of  them,  thus  ending  the 
affray. 

Mr.  Le  Breton — the  surgeon  being  absent  from  town — 
was  removed  immediately  to  Vancouver,  where  he  received 
every  attention ;  but  the  canoe  having  been  ten  hours  on  the 


•i 


TEN   YBAKS   IS    OllEGON. 


233 


passage,  the  poison  had  diffused  itself  all  abroad  in  his  sys- 
tem, and  proved  mortal  in  less  than  three  days  from  the 
moment  of  the  horrid  disaster.  Mr.  Rogers  lived  but  one 
lay  longer,  though  but  slightly  wounded  with  an  arrow  in 
the  muscle  of  his  arm.  Mr.  Wilson  has  suffered  compara- 
tively little,  but  is  not  considered  in  a  safe  condition. 

This  unhappy  affray  has  created  a  general  sensation 
throughout  the  colony,  and  all  abroad  among  the  Indians  of 
this  lower  district.  Now,  whilst  I  am  penning  these  lines,  1 
am  completely  surrounded  by  at  least  seventy  armed  Indi- 
ans, just  down  from  the  Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  many  of 
them  professed  relatives  of  the  deceased,  on  their  way  to  the 
falls  of  the  Willamette,  to  demand  an  explanation,  or,  in 
other  words,  to  extort  a  present  for  the  loss  of  their  brother. 

They  appear  well  affected  towards  me — remarkably  so — 
though  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  painted  horridly.  I  am 
every  moment  expecting  my  interpreter,  when  I  shall  prob- 
ably learn  particulars  respecting  their  intentions.  In  the 
mean  time,  I  will  give  a  few  particulars  respecting  this  de- 
ceased Indian's  previous  course,  which  led  to  the  disaster, 
showing  how  much  we  need  authorities  and  disciphne  in  this 
countiy. 

As  it  is  said,  a  negro  hired  Cockstock  for  a  given  time,  to 
be  paid  in  a  certain  horse.  Before  the  time  expired,  the  ne- 
gro sold  the  horse  and  land  claim  to  another  negro,  the  In- 
dian finishing  his  time  with  the  purchaser,  according  to 
agreement.  Leaniing,  however,  to  his  chagrin  and  mortifi- 
cation, that  the  horse  had  changed  owners,  and  believing  it 
a  conspiracy  against  his  rights,  resolved  to  take  the  horse 
forcibly — did  so — and  this  led  to  a  year's  contention,  many 
threats,  some  wounds,  and  at  last  to  the  three  deaths,  and 
may  possibly  lead  to  all  the  horrors  of  savage  warfare  in  our 


.'.  ''i  :- 

m 


;'  if' 


hi 

m 


if 

if 


J 


l:-H' 


'^■n. 


M 


■■I 


tl 


234 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREO  OK. 


Ii 


hitherto  quiet  neighborhood.  It  was  this  identical  Cock- 
stock  that  occasioned  much  of  the  excitement  last  spring, 
among  the  whites  of  the  colony,  actually  driving  several  from 
their  homes  to  the  more  central  part  of  the  settlement  for 
protection. 

I  saw  and  had  an  interview  with  the  Indians  in  June  fol- 
lowing, and  settled  all  differences,  to  appearance,  satisfacto- 
rily ;  but,  four  months  subsequently,  having  occasioned  the 
authorities  constituted  among  the  Indians  to  flog  one  of  his 
connexions  for  violently  entering  the  house  of  the  Rev.  H. 
R.  Perkins,  seizing  his  person,  and  attempting  to  tie,  with  a 
view  to  flog  him,  he  took  fire  afresh,  and  in  November  last 
came  with  a  slave  to  ray  house,  with  the  avowed  object  of 
shooting  me  down  at  once  ;  but  finding  me  absent,  after  a 
close  search  in  every  part  of  the  house,  he  commenced 
smashing  the  windows,  lights,  sash,  and  all,  of  my  house 
and  office,  with  the  breech  of  his  gun  ;  and  it  is  but  just  to 
say,  he  did  his  work  most  eff'ectually,  not  leaving  a  sound 
window  in  either.  He  next  started  hotly  in  pursuit  of  my 
steward,  who  was  most  acti/ely  retreating,  but  soon  over- 
taken and  seized  by  the  shculder  ;  his  garment  giving  way, 
saved  the  frightened  young  man  from  further  violence. 

I  returned  late  in  the  evening,  this  having  occurred  at 
three,  P.  M.,  when  the  vill  lins  Avcre  too  far  away  to  be  over- 
taken, though  I  pursued  ibem  with  the  best  men  of  the 
colony  during  the  whole  night,  and  so  long  as  we  could 
trace  them.  This  was  regarded  a  great  outrage,  and  crea- 
ted a  strong  sensation  throughout  the  community,  especially 
as  none  knew  where  to  trace  it  until  within  a  few  weeks  past. 
Some  four  weeks  subsequently,  fifteen  Indians  came  in  open 
day,  riding  into  the  neighborhood,  painted  and  well  armed, 
r  was  the  first,  with  one  exception,  that  observed  them,  and 


p\l 


TEM    YEARS  IN    OREaOK. 


235 


learned  they  were  Molalles  and  Klamets,  and  felt  confident 
they  were  on  an  errand  of  mischief,  being  well  informed  of 
their  mtarauding  and  desperate  habits.  As  this  is  quite  out 
of  their  province,  the  proper  homes  of  the  Klamets  being  at 
least  thr<  e  hundred  miles  to  the  south,  and  the  Molallas, 
with  whom  they  intermarry,  having  their  lodges  in  the  Cas- 
cade mountains,  a  distance  of  from  forty  to  eighty  miles,  I 
resolved  at  once  to  turn  their  visit  to  account ;  sent  my  stew- 
ard to  chief  Caleb's  lodge,  where  all  had  arrived,  he  being 
a  Callapooyah,  and  with  his  band  having  previously  entered 
with  me  into  the  civil  compact,  and  gave  him  a  cordial  invi- 
tation to  call  on  me,  with  the  chiefs  visiting  him,  in  the 
morning,  as  I  wished  to  see  them,  and  had  some  interesting 
and  pleasing  news  to  convey  to  them.  The  chiefs  called  in 
the  morning,  none,  however,  appearing  so  pleased  and  happy 
as  Caleb.  Of  this  I  took  no  notice ;  but  entered  into  cheer- 
ful conversation  with  Caleb  for  a  few  moments,  and  then 
rose  up  and  invited  them  to  walk  out  and  see  my  plantation 
and  herds. 

When  we  reached  the  cattle,  I,  as  by  accident,  or  inciden- 
tally, asked  Caleb  if  he  was  prepared  to  give  a  feast  to  his 
distant  friends  who  had  so  lataly  and  unexpectedly  called  on 
him.  Answering  in  the  negative,  I  told  him  to  shoot  down 
at  once  a  fat  young  ox  that  was  passing  before  us,  and,  while 
some  were  dressing  it,  others  to  come  to  the  house  and  get 
.some  flour,  peas,  salt,  etc.,  and  go  immediately  back  and 
feast  his  friends,  lest  they  form  an  unfavorable  opinion  of  us 
here.  I  ne^d  not  say  the  summons  was  obeyed,  and  Caleb 
the  happiest  man  in  the  world.  Now  the  rigid  muscles  of 
the  stranger  chiefs  began  to  relax ;  in  short,  all  distrust  wfis 
soon  lost,  and  as  they  were  about  leaving  for  Caleb's  camp, 
they  found  themselves  constrained  to  inform  me  that  they 


■■•'Si' 

-,  |. 


Vi" 


■■:iif 


4: 

■  ;!f . 


;^| 


i  ■: 


236 


TKW    YJCAKS   IN   OKEOOV. 


came  over  with  very  dift'ercnt  feelings  from  what  they  were 
now  leaving  us  Avith,  and  were  very  glad  they  had  listened 
to  Caleb's  advice,  and  called  upon  me.  Professing  to  he 
very  much  engaged  at  the  moment,  I  told  them  to  go  and 
dine,  and  at  evening,  or  early  the  following  morning,  I  would 
come  with  my  friend,  Mr.  Applegate,  and  make  them  a  call. 

They  feasted  to  the  full,  and  I  found  them  in  fine  humor, 
a,nd  in  a  better  condition  to  smoke  than  fight.  After  some 
casual  conversation,  I  asked  them  how  they  would  like  to 
enter  into  the  civil  compact ;  and,  whilst  they  were  discus- 
sing the  subject,  this  Indian — Cockstock — came  first  into  my 
presence,  well  armed,  and  appeared  cold  and  distant,  though 
I  had  no  suspicion  of  his  being  the  character  who  had  so 
lately  broken  to  pieces  the  windows  in  my  house  and  office. 

They  had  no  scruples  in  saying  they  were  entirely  willing, 
and  should  be  pleased  on  their  part  to  enter  upon  the  same 
terms  as  others,  but  did  not  know  how  it  might  be  regarded  by 
the  residue  of  their  respective  tribes.  They  engaged  to  meet 
me  on  the  15th  of  March,  with  the  residue  of  their  people,  and 
use  their  influence  to  bring  about  the  desirable  object 
The  party  left  the  same  day,  apparently  in  a  cheerful  mood, 
passed  over  the  prairie  singing,  talking,  and  laughing  mer- 
rily. As  a  part,  however,  were  piissing  their  horses  over  a 
diScult  stream,  the  other  part  fell  upon  and  massacred  them 
in  a  most  shocking  manner,  this  villamous  Cockstock  acting 
a  conspicuous  part  in  the  bloody  affray. 

I  repaired  to  the  spot  without  delay,  as  the  whites  were 
much  excited,  and  wished  to  pursue  and  hang  every  one  of 
them.  I  learned  there  had  been  imsettled  feuds  of  long 
standing,  and  that  in  like  manner,  ten  months  previously, 
three  unfortunate  wretches  had  shot  down  a  fellow  traveller. 
On  conveying  this  information  to  the  citizens,  all  I  believe 


sIj:;- 


jirf 


ined 


TK5   TEARS  IN    0RE605. 


2S1 


were  satisfied  to  stay  at  home,  and  remain  quiet  for  the  pres- 
ent. 

Thus  much  for  thi»  Indian  affair,  which,  my  interpreter 
having  arrived,  I  have  settled  to-day  with  the  Dalles  Indians 
raost  satisfactorily.  As  was  to  he  expected,  they  wished 
presents  for  the  death  of  their  brother.  I  prcvaih.'d  on  nil 
to  be  seated,  and  then  explained  the  whole  case  slowly  and 
clearly  to  their  understanding.  I  told  them  we  had  lost  two 
valuable  innocent  men,  and  they  but  one  ;  and  should  our 
people  learn  that  I  had  given  them  presents,  without  their 
giving  me  two  blankets  for  one,  they  must  expect  nothing 
hut  the  hottest  displeasure  from  the  whites.  After  much 
deliberation  am^ng  themselves,  they  with  one  voice  conchi- 
ded  to  leave  the  whole  matter  to  my  discretion. 

I  at  once  decided  to  give  the  poor  Indian  widow  two 
blankets,  a  dress,  and  handkerchief,  beheving  the  moral  in- 
fluence better  than  to  make  presents  to  the  chief  or  tribe, 
and  to  receive  nothing  at  their  hands.  To  this  proposi  ian 
they  most  cheerfully  consented,  and  have  now  left,  having 
asked  for  and  obtained  from  me  a  written  certificate,  stating 
that  the  matter  had  all  been  amicably  settled.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  matter  will  here  end,  though  that  is  by  no 
means  certain,  as  at  present  there  arc  so  ma>iV  -ources  of  un- 
easiness and  discontent  between  the  parties. 

As  I  said  before,  I  believe  it  morally  impossible  for  us  to 
remain  at  peace  in  Oregon,  for  any  considerable  time,  with- 
out the  protection  of  vigorous  civil  or  military  law.  For 
myself,  I  am  most  awkwardly  situated  ;  so  much  so,  indeed, 
that  I  had  seriously  anticipated  leaving  this  spring ;  but  the 
late  successful  contest  against  the  introduction  of  ardent 
spirits,  in  connexion  with  the  excitement  by  reason  of  the 
unhappy  disaster  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette,  together 


'^:i 


■|«^ 


1 

U 

i 

"h 

;i.iv- 

I...'  ■•'•^ 

'0- 

.ii^ 

10 

;»:■ 

> 

■I 


>M 


238 


TXN  YEARS  IN    OREGOK. 


J     ^' 


with  the  fact  of  too  many  of  our  people  being  so  extremely 
excitable  on  Indian  and  other  affairs  reliiting  to  the  peace 
and  interest  of  the  colony  and  country,  I  have  concluded  to 
remain  for  the  present,  in  hopes  of  being  soon  some  way  re- 
lieved. I  hope  that  the  draft  I  have  this  day  drawn  in  favor 
of  John  McLaughlin  will  be  honored,  as  otherwise  I  may  be 
thrown  at  once  into  the  greatest  difficulties,  having  no  other 
h  ouse  in  this  country  where  I  can  draw  such  articles  as  I 
require  for  necessary  presents  to  Indians,  to  defray  travelling 
expenses,  etc. 

I  have  the  honor  to  remain,  with  highest  respect, 

your  obedient  humble  servant, 

E.  WHITE, 
Sub-agent  of  Indian  Affairs. 
Hon.  J.  M.  Porter, 

Secretary  of  War. 


I 


4  V^' 
111    '-. 


TBK   TEARS   IN    ORBGOIT. 


289 


■  I 

i, 


u 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


i:  >' 

'  ii' 


General  health,  etc. — Winter  rains — State  of  nflairfl  between  the  whites 
and  Indians — Chief  of  the  Fallatine  plains — Aggression  by  the  Indi- 
ans— Military  assistance  called  for — Communication  of  the  chief — 
Unhandsome  and  unjust  behavior  of  the  Californians — Murder  of  Eli- 
jah Hedding — Ellis  sent  to  the  whites — Salutary  language  and  inter- 
view— Happy  visit  with  Ellis — Intended  revenge  of  the  aggressed 
party — Invitation  to  the  chiefs — Difficulty  at  fort  Vancouver — 
Suspension  of  hostilities — The  agents  weariness  of  the  unhappy 
state  of  affairs — Dissatisfaction  with  the  government — An  unpleas- 
ant affair  settled — The  colony — Methodist  institute — Circulating 
medium  needed — Agent's  unpleasant  position — Number  of  Indians — 
Letter  from  Mr.  McLaughlin  and  Douglas — Answer  from  Russell 
and  Stewart — Letter  from  Mr.  Burnett — New  wagon  route — Report 
of  the  sub-agent's  interpreter — Mr.  Lee  relative  to  the  Nez  Perces — 
Letter  from  Mr.  Lovcjoy  to  the  secretary  of  war — A  resolution — 
Note  to  Hon.  W.  Medill. 

Oregon,  Willamette  Vallt-y,  April  4,  1845. 

Si  r — Through  the  politeness  of  Governor  McLaughlin — 
the  Hudson's  Bay  express  leaving — via.  the  mountains — for 
Canada  to-morrow — I  have  again  tlie  honor  and  pleasure  of 
addressing  you  from  this  remote  portion  of  earth. 

Since  my  last,  of  November,  1844,  giving  an  account  of 
the  destruction  of  thr  distillery,  the  general  health,  quiet- 
ness, prosperity,  and  rapid  growth  of  the  colony,  together 
with  the  good  order  and  deconim  which  prevailed  through- 
out at  the  courts,  all  has  moved  forward  here  as  satisfacto- 
rily as  could  have  been  expected. 

Starting  too  late,  and  the  winter  rains  setting  in  earlier 


'«; 


1> 


1- 


^^i 


ik 

I 


if,9 
i'i 


240 


TE»    YEAia   IS    OREC.O.T. 


■i  ■';• 


than  usual,  subjected  the  emigrants  to  incredible  sufTering 
uiid  hard>liips,  especially  from  the  Dulles  of  the  Columbia 
down  to  the  Willamette  valley;  but  our  early  and  delight- 
ful spring  is  exerting  u  cheering  and  most  salutary  influence 
upon  tln'ir  hitherto  depressed  sj)irits.  Thoy  have,  bee  like, 
been  hived  up  in  Oregon  city  during  the  winter,  and  aic 
now  swarming  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  the  first  occu- 
pants of  tiie  hive  ;  it  not  being  wide  and  large  enough  for 
>uch  an  unexpected  increase.  The  last  emigration,  number- 
ing about  a  tliousand,  are  generally  pleased  with  the  coun- 
try, and  are  setting  about  their  spring's  work  with  becom- 
iiig  spiiit  and  fortitude. 

The  Indians  of  this  lower  country,  whose  national  honor 
and  dignn,y  are  laid  in  the  dust,  are  looking  upon  the  rapid 
growth  and  increased  strength  of  the  v.hiies  with  sorrowful 
countenances  and  sad  heaits.  The  present  state  of  things 
between  us  and  them  is  peculir,  critical,  unenviable,  a'  an- 
gorous,  at  least  so  far  as  peace  and  property  arc  coT.^.....*d, 

For  instance  in  proof — soon  after  I  sent  my  despatches, 
the  chief  of  the  Fallatine  plains,  whose  orderly  conduct  and 
that  of  his  clan  did  honor  to  the  Nez  Perces  laws,  and  the 
engagement  we  had  mutually  entered  into,  called  on  me,  de- 
siring my  offices  in  procuring  the  mending  of  his  gun.  This 
being  done,  he  invited  me  to  come  and  see  liim  and  his  peo- 
ple ;  said  all  was  not  right  at  liLs  lodge  ;  his  tribe  was  divi- 
ded, and  all  was  not  right  ;  hia  influence  was  waning,  and 
some  of  his  people  were  becoming  very  bitter  towards  the 
Americans.  Observing  anxiety  and  mental  reservation,  I 
endeavored  to  draw  out  the  secret,  reminding  him  of  the 
frequent  communicaiions  ho  had  brought  me  from  the  Rev. 
Messrs,  Clarke  and  Griffin,  Ix'uriag  such  satisfactory  testi- 
mony to  his  previous  quiet,  orderly,  and  proper  conduct,  etc.. 


J'     ' 


TBM   TKARS    IH   OIIKOON. 


241 


but  all  I  could  learn  was,  "things  arc  not  right  with  us,  and 
we  arc  miserable." 

The  Gamass,  their  principal  depcndancc  for  food  was 
cut  off  last  season  by  reason  of  drought ;  and  the  deer  are 
hunted  so  much  by  the  late  hungry  western  emigrant  rifle- 
men, that  they  have  become  wild,  poor,  and  few  in  number. 
The  chief  left. 

A  few  days  after,  I  learned  they  had  killed  an  ox  and  ate 
it,  belonging  to  a  neighboring  white  man.  The  owner  was 
excited,  and  applied  to  one  of  the  executive  ;  a  proclama- 
tion was  issued,  the  military  was  called  out — if  it  be  lawful 
to  call  it  such — and  ample  preparations  made  to  avenge  the 
national  insult,  and  seek  redress  for  this  astounding  loss. 
The  army  collected  upon  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  six 
miles  from  the  position  occupied  by  the  enemy,  talked 
bravely,  long  and  loud,  but  the  river  was  a  little  too  high  to 
cross  that  day — appointed  another,  the  river  being  lower ; 
none  of  the  warriors  appeared ;  nor  could  the  executive, 
simply  for  the  want  of  a  few  gallons  of  alcohol,  obtain  the 
necessary  assistance  to  avenge  the  horrid  wrong,  and  per- 
form a  brilliant  military  exploit.  The  chief,  in  his  embar- 
rassment and  distress,  came  to  me  as  usual  for  sympathy  and 
succor.  My  coldness  and  look  of  severity — for  which  heav- 
en forgive  me  I — keenly  afflicted  him.  After  a  deep  sigh 
and  painful  pause,  peculiar  to  a  wounded  or  injured  Indian, 
he  slowly  rose,  gently  smitlag  upon  his  breast,  and  said,  "  Dr. 
White,  I  am  a  true  man,  and  carry  an  honest  heart.  Do  you 
remember  my  coming  to  get  my  gun  mended  last  fall  ?  Do 
you  remember  my  words,  that  all  was  not  right  with  our 
people,  and  my  inviting  you  to  come  and  see  us  ?  We  had 
just  before  killed  that  old  ox,  and  was  then  eating  it."  I  en- 
quired, had  you  anything  to  do  with  it  personally  ?  "  Yes 
10 


■I* 

'  5  ':' 


M'. 


if 


I 


>* 

■1: 

M 


V 

I'ir 


r>:y 


242 


TKN  YEARS   ;[N   OREO 05". 


-V  :l 


I  s  »\^ 


1^ 
il  If 


fevf  ( 


1 


— I  helped  to  kill  it,  and  with  my  family,  took  and  ate  one- 
half  of  the  annimal.  You  saw  the  condition  of  my  gun — 
our  provisions  were  out ;  I  and  others  had  hunted  for  two 
days — our  hunger  was  great.  We  held  a  council,  and,  ho- 
ping for  success,  I  promised  on  condition  nothing  was  caught 
till  the  setting  of  another  sun,  wc  would  kill  the  first  animul 
we  met. 

I  travelled  far,  and  wearied  myself  till  evening  ;  shot  of 
ten,  but  killed  nothing.  We  met  this  poor  old  ox,  which 
our  people  would  scorn  to  kill  or  eat  except  in  cases  of  ex- 
treme hunger  ;  my  word  was  passed  to  my  people  ;  I  could 
not  go  back  from  my  word ;  I  helped  to  kill  and  butcher  the 
ox,  and  joined  in  eating  him,  and  now  my  peace  is  gone.  I 
am  ashamed  to  see  a  -r,  hite  man's  face — they  look  cold  on 
me  and  shake  the  head  I  cannot  bear  it ;  I  cannot  live  so ; 
[  come  to  you  to  help  me,  for  I  am  told  they  want  to  kill 
me.  I  do  not  want  such  feelings  to  exist ;  nor  do  I  want  to 
be  hunted  as  a  bear  or  wild  beast  for  slaughter.  I  stand 
here  a  wisher  of  peace,  willing  to  have  you  dictate  the  term-.; 
but  wish  to  have  it  remembered  that  we  were  distressed  with 
hunger."  "Suppose,"  said  I,  "the  owner  should  require 
your  rifle  and  four  horses  ?"  "  You  stand  to  judge  between 
us,  and  I  shall  abide  your  decision."  "But  you  have  bro- 
ken your  engagement  and  forfeited  confidence,  and  I  fear  it 
cannot  be  settled,  as  some  think  you  have  killed  before." 
"  Doctor  White,  I  am  a  true  man,  and  lie  not.  I  nor  my 
people,  cannot  be  so  accused  justly  ;  this  i^:  injurious ;  none 
can  meet  my  face  and  say  it."  I  wrote,  through  him  to  the 
owner,  praying,  as  it  was  the  first  oflfence  so  far  as  we  had 
the  least  evidence,  and  especially  in  view  of  our  critical  situ- 
ation, and  his  general  good  behavior,  that  he  would  fully 
indemnify  himself;  and  then,  in  view  of  what  I  knew  of  the 


Wi 


:% 


TCN  TEARS   IN    OREGON'. 


243 


condition  of  his  gun,  and  the  probability  that  it  was  induced 
by  hunger,  to  settle  it ;  and  requested  him  to  assure  the 
chief  that  he  was  convinced  from  my  letter  and  all  the  cir- 
cumstances, in  connexion  with  his  past  good  conduct,  thnt 
it  must  have  been  brought  about  by  hunger. 

The  advice  was  rejected,  as  the  laws  of  the  organization 
now  had  cognizance  of  the  offence,  and  he  wished  to  see 
them  faithfully  enforced.  Public  opinion  became  divided, 
ard  no  judicial  expression  being  made,  and  the  poor  chief 
becoming  excessively  tired  of  being  held  by  public  opinion 
in  durance  vile,  came  to  sec  me  a  second  time.  I  wrote 
again,  and  learned  it  was  settled  by  the  chief  and  his  people 
paying  his  rifle  and  eight  horses.  If  this  be  correct — as  T 
fear  it  is — I  abominate  the  act,  and  dread  its  prejudicial 
influen.  5. 

Week  before  last  a  hungry  and  mischievous  lodge  killed  a 
cow.  They  were  pursued  by  a  party  of  whites,  overtaken, 
and,  in  attempting  to  take  them  the  Indians  fired  upon  the 
whites,  killed  one  horse,  and  wounded  another.  The  fire 
was  returned,  one  Indian  killed,  and  a  second  wounded. 
Thus  ended  this  affair,  which  created  very  little  excitement 
among  Avhites  or  Indians. 

The  most  painful  circumstance  that  has  occurred  lately, 
transpired  last  fall  at  California.  The  Keyuse,  Wallawallas, 
and  some  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Spokans,  entered  upon  the 
hazardous,  but  grand  and  important  enterprise  of  going  di 
rectly  through  the  Indian  country  to  California,  with  a  view 
of  exchanging  their  beaver,  deer,  and  elk  skins,  together  with 
their  surplus  of  horses  for  neat  stock.  As  they  had  to  pa8.s 
through  aH  extensive  country,  inhabited  by  the  savage  and 
warlike  Clamets  and  Chestes,  where  Smith,  Turner,  and  so 
many  other  white  parties  had  been  defeated,  we  are  at  a  Iosh 


4  •: 


itr 


;  * 

It 

-  K 

.  t 


't. 


244 


TKN  TKAR3   IN    OKEG  OJT, 


i 
.i  J 


IK    ,(  4  •■    .' 


to  conclude  whether  then-  valor  is  more  to  be  commanded 
than  the  rashness  of  their  stupendous  enterprise  to  be  censu 
red.  They  were  well  mounted  ap(^  equipped  ;  the  chiefs 
clad  in  English  costume,  and  the  resMue  attired  in  dressed 
sktns,  moulded  according  to  their  several  tastes.  The  jour- 
ney of  seven  or  eight  hundred  miles,  after  some  fighting, 
watching,  and  much  fatigue,  was  accomplished,  and  their 
numbers  not  lessened. 

Taking  their  own  statement,  their  reception  was  cordia!, 
a^d  the  impression  made  upon  the  whites  by  these  distant 
4pd  half-civilized  people,  upon  an  errand  so  commendable, 
vas  most  favorable.  The  treating  and  salutations  being 
qver,  the  trade  cwnmenced  in  good  faith,  and  to  mutual  sat- 
isfaction. All  moved  on  well,  till,  on  an  excursion  to  pro- 
cure elk  and  deer  skins,  they  met  a  marauding  band  of 
mountain  free-booters,  fought  them,  and,  being  victorious, 
took  a  prize  of  twenty-two  hcwrses,  all  previously  stolen  from 
t^e  whites. 

On  returning  to  the  settlements,  the  Spaniards  laid  claim 
to  the  animalb.  The  chiefs  remonstrated,  and  said,  agreea- 
bly to  their  customs,  the  horses  were  theirs.  The  Spaniards 
explained  their  laws,  and  showed  the  animals  not  to  be  ven- 
ted, i.  e.,  bearing  a  transfei-  mark,  and  told  the  Indians  they 
must  give  them  to  the  rightful  owners,  as  all  Americans  and 
others  did.  The  Indians  seemed  grieved,  and  rather  incen- 
sed ;  said  in  their  country  six  nations  of  people  were  on  terras 
^f  amity,  and  that  in  case  any  one  of  these  six  nations  stole  a 
horse,  the  tribe  was  responsible  for  the  safe  delivery  of  that 
animal  to  the  rightful  owner ;  but  in  case  the  Blackfeet  or 
otlier  formidable  enemy  steal  or  capture,  thp  property  is 
apposed  lost,  without  redemption ;  and  as  we  have  captured 
these  horses  at  the  hazard  of  our  lives,  from  your  long  open- 


iji 


i? 


TKM   TEARS   IN    OREGOK. 


2i5 


ly  declared  enemies,  we  tliink  they  ought  in  justice  to  he 
ours.  The  Spaniards  condescended  to  offer  ten  cows  fcr  the 
redemption  of  the  horses ;  the  chief  not  replying  five  inore 
were  added ;  he  still  remaining  moody,  and  without  replying, 
the  negotiation  unhappily  broke  oflf.  A  day  or  two  after,  an 
American,  seeing  his  mule  among  the  number  captured,  told 
the  Indians  it  was  his  mule,  and  have  it  he  would.  Will 
you,  said  a  young  chief  by  the  name  of  Elijah  Heading ;  and 
stepping  into  the  lodge,  immediately  loaded  his  rifle,  came 
out  and  observed  significantly,  go  now  and  take  your  mvit. 
The  American,  much  alarmed,  remarked,  I  hope  you  are 
not  going  to  kill  me.  No !  I  am  going  to  shoot  yonder 
eagle — perched  upon  a  neighboring  oak.  Not  liking  the 
appearance,  the  man  left  without  attempting  to  obtain  his 
mule.  A  day  or  two  after  the  Indians  left  their  encainp- 
ment  and  walked  down  to  the  fort  of  Captain  Stiter  to 
church  ;  and  from  the  best  information  we  have  obtained — 
all  being  ex  parte — the  following  appears  to  be  near  the 
truth : 

After  service,  Elijah  was  in.  iu  d  into  another  apartment,  ta- 
king with  him  his  uncle,  a  brave  and  sensible  chief  of  the  .igc 
of  fiveand-forty ;  while  there,  in  an  unarmed  and  de<"j^hceless 
condition,  they  commenced  menacing  him  for  things  alleg- 
ed against  the  river  Indians  of  this  upper  count 'v,  in  wnich 
none  of  them  had  any  participation ;  called  the  indiscrimi- 
nately dogs,  thieves,  <fec.,  (fee.  This  American  then  observed, 
Yesterday  you  were  going  to  kill  me — now  you  rans  di^i — 
drawing  a  pistol.  Elijah,  who  had  been  five  or  years  at 
the  Methodist  mission,  and  had  learned  to  read,  write,  aiftd 
speak  English  respectably,  said  deliberately — let  me  pray  a 
little  first ;  and  kneeling  down,  at  once  commenced ;  and 
while  invoking  the  divine  mercy,  was  shot  through  the  heart 


M 


\h 


246 


TEN    YEARS   IS    OREaON. 


or  vitals  dead  upon  the  spot.  Every  measure,  as  the  Indi- 
ans say,  was  taken  to  cut  them  all  off  by  Spaniards,  who 
brought  out  the  cannon,  with  other  fire  arms,  and  hotly  pur- 
baed  them,  and  tried  to  prevent  their  escape  by  checking 
and  interrupting  their  passage  across  the  ferries,  &lc.  ka. 
But  at  length  they  all  arri  od  safely,  after  manifest  suffering, 
leaving  the  herds  they  had  paid  for  in  California. 

They  met  three  Americans  on  the  way  as  they  left  the  Califor- 
nia settlements  and  had  them  in  their  power ;  but  instead  of 
revenging  the  death  of  Elijah,  they  mounted  each  on  a  horse 
of  their  own,  and  sent  them  in,  telling  them  to  go  to  the 
fort  and  acquaint  the  people  that,  as  christians,  they  could 
not  kill  innocent  white  people,  who  were  in  their  power  and 
lodge. 

Taking  for  truth  an  Indian  report,  this  horrible  affair  cre- 
ates considerable  excitement,  and  there  is  some  danger  of  its 
disturbing  the  friendly  relation  that  has  hitherto  existed  be- 
tween us  here,  and  all  those  formidable  tribes  in  the  region  of 
Wallawalla  and  Snake  rivers.  They  had  no  sooner  arrived 
than  Ellis,  my  interpiot/^r,  the  high  chief  of  the  Nez  Perces, 
was  deputed  to  come  down  and  learn  our  opinion  regard- 
ing the  affair.  They  could  not  have  sent  a  better  agent,  the 
whites  all  giving  him  a  handsome  and  cordial  reception. 
From  Wallawalla  he  accompanied  Mr.  Grant,  the  chief  tra- 
der at  Fort  Hall,  down  to  Vancouver.  He  called  on  Dr 
McLaughlin,  whose  great  experience  and  address  were  ser- 
viceable. He  spoke  touchingly  of  the  violent  death  of  his 
own  son  i:pon  the  northwest  coast,  and  left  the  impression 
that  he  could  not  avoid  sympathising  with  the  father  and 
friends  of  the  young  chief.  Mr.  Douglas,  too,  an  early  friend, 
patron,  and  favorite  of  Ellis,  aided  mrch  in  convincing  him 
that  all  the  good  and  virtuous  could  i^ot  avoid  the  most  pain 


1     IJK    "« 
"f;  I    ' , 


i.l|! 

!!*■ 


TEN  YEARS   IN    ORKOON. 


247 


ful  regrets  at  so  melancholy  a  circumstance,  which  must  have 
occurred  by  reason  of  the  difference  in  their  customs  or  laws; 
imperfectly  understanding  each  other,  or  from  some,  as  ho 
would  charitably  hope,  excusable  circumstance. 

Under  the  influence  of  this  salutary  language  and  inter- 
view, Ellis  arrived  at  my  residence,  in  Willamette,  about  the 
first  instant,  having  a  short  time  before,  got  a  hasty  commu- 
nication, written  in  excitement,  from  Dr.  Whitman,  who  was 
under  serious  apprehensions  that  it  might  be  avenged  upon 
some  of  the  whites  of  the  upper  country.  Be  assured  I  was 
happy  to  see  this,  my  most  faithful  friend  and  interpreter. 
Sir,  pardon  me  for  saying — isolated  as  we  are  here,  agitated 
as  we  have  a  thousand  times  been,  by  faithle^is  savages,  and 
still  more  faithless  whites,  responsible,  yet  powerless  and 
defenceless  in  our  unsettled  state  of  things — to  meet  with 
this  honest  man,  this  real  friend,  though  an  Indian,  gave  me 
hearty  pleasure. 

His  thorough  education  at  Red  river,  moulded  him  into 
more  of  the  white  man  than  Indian.  His  prudence  and  good 
management  with  his  tribe  sanctioned  the  choice  that  had 
been  mac'e,  and  all  the  whites  spoke  handsomely  of  his  kind 
offices  and  obliging  deportment,  whilst  emigrating  through 
his  country.  Being  satisfied  of  the  safety  and  policy,  I  feast- 
ed him  well,  and  took  at  once  unobserved  measures  to  have 
him  invited  to  every  respectable  place  abroad,  where  the  la- 
dies and  gentlemen  received  him  so  cordially,  and  feasted 
him  so  richly  and  delicately,  that  he  almost  forgot  the  object 
of  his  embassy,  and,  I  verily  believe,  thought  extremely 
highly  of  the  Avhites  of  Willamette,  however  he  might  have 
thought  of  the  conduct  of  the  Californians. 

Being  anxious  to  make  this  visit  useful  to  him  and  his 
people,  as  well  as  pleasant,  after  spending  a  few  days  in  vis- 


III 

<<;;  ■.'  V, 


if  ■' ■ 


248 


TEH   TEARS   IN    OREO OH. 


:3    ^• 


iting  the  schools,  as  well  as  the  principal  inhabitants  and 
places  of  interest,  I  showed  him  my  little  library,  told  him 
to  make  himself  at  home ;  put  on  ray  farmer's  garb,  and 
commenced  working  on  my  plantation.  He  soon  came  out, 
accompanied  by  a  wealthy  cousin,  and  begged  for  tools  to 
assist  me.  I  loaned  them,  and  found  he  was  much  at  home 
in  their  use.  He  spent  with  me  a  sufficient  length  of  time 
to  convince  me  of  the  tinith  reported  concerning  his  cheer- 
fulness in  labor,  as  well  as  his  knowledge,  application,  and 
assiduity  in  business.  He  spoke  sensibly  of  the  advantages 
of  industry,  and  the  astonishing  change  that  had  been  effect- 
ed among  his  people,  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil ;  assured 
me  that  every  family  or  lodge  now  raised  an  abundance  for 
home  consumption,  besides  having  considerable  quantities  to 
barter  with  the  whites.  He  says  he  raised  himself,  the  past 
season,  six  hundred  bushels  of  pease,  with  a  fine  crop  of 
wheat,  potatoes,  beans,  (fee.  &c. ;  spoke  properly  of  its  moral 
and  social  effects.  Wars  were  no  longer  talked  of,  and  the 
chase  was  nearly  abandoned ;  the  book  and  the  Bible  consu- 
med their  leisure  moments.  Polygamy,  once  so  common, 
except  in  two  solitary  cases,  was  done  away,  and  not  a  lodge 
of  my  people  but  observe  the  Sabbath,  and  regularly  attend 
morning  and  evening  devotion.  All  this  was  only  corrobo- 
rative of  what  I  had  previously  heard  from  other  sources. 
He  spent  two  days  with  me,  in  the  most  cheerful,  agreeable, 
and  profitable  manner,  and  at  the  close  I  felt  myself  the 
better  and  happier  for  the  vist ;  nor  did  I  marvel  that  his 
influence  was  increasing  and  the  prospects  of  his  people 
brightening. 

Pardon  me ;  for,  in  thinking  of  his  visit  and  dwelling  upon 
his  excellencies,  I  had  like  to  have  forgotten  his  agency. 
Learning  from  Dr.  Whitman,  who  resides  in  their  midst,  how 


ilr  .■ 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


249 


much  they  were  all  excited  by  reason  of  the  treacherous  and 
violent  death  of  this  educated  and  accomplished  young  chief, 
and  perhaps  more  especially  by  the  loss  they  had  sustained; 
and  then,  after  suffering  so  many  hardships,  and  encounter- 
ing so  many  dangers,  losing  the  whole — I  apprehended  there 
might  be  much  difficulty  in  adjusting  it,  particularly  as  they 
lay  much  stress  upon  the  restless,  disaffected  scamps  late 
from  Willamette  to  California,  loading  them  with  the  vile  ep- 
ithets of  "dogs,"  "thieves,"  <fec.  (fee,  from  which  they  be- 
lieved, or  affected  to,  that  the  slanderous  reports  of  our  cit- 
izens caused  all  their  loss  and  disasters,  and  therefore  held 
us  responsible.  He  assured  me  that  the  Wallawallas,  Key- 
use,  Nez  Perces,  Spokans,  Ponderays,  and  Snakes,  were  all 
on  terms  of  amity,  and  that  a  portioa  of  the  aggrieved  party 
were  for  raising  about  two  thous.t.'.'i  wf>rriors  of  these  formi- 
dable tribes,  and  march  to  California  at  once,  and  nobly  re- 
venge themselves  on  the  inhabitants  by  capture  and  plunder, 
enrich  themselves  upon  the  spoils ;  others,  not  indisposed  to 
the  enterprise,  wished  firs^  to  learn  how  it  would  be  regard- 
ed here,  and  whether  we  would  remain  neutral  in  the  affair. 
A  third  party  were  for  holding  us  responsible,  as  Elijah  was 
killed  by  an  American,  and  the  Americans  incensed  the 
Spaniards.  Ellis  reminded  me  at  the  same  time  of  the  ill 
success  the  chiefs  met  with  in  trading  off  their  ten  dollar 
drafts  for  herds,  with  the  emigrants ;  which  drafts  I  had  sent 
up  by  Mr.  Lee,  my  interpreter,  to  secure  peace  and  safety 
while  the  emigrants  were  passing  through  their  country ; 
the  year  before  so  many  having  been  pillaged  and  robbed 
of  their  effects,  through  the  inattention  of  the  chiefs. 

Sir,  how  this  affair  will  end,  is  difficult  to  conjecture  ;  the 
general  impression  is,  that  it  will  lead  to  the  most  disastrous 
consequences  to  the  Californians  themselves,  or  to  the  colony 


250 


TEN   YEARS    IN   •UEOOK. 


111^^ 


of  the  Willamette  valley.  My  principal  fear  is,  that  it  will 
result  in  so  much  jealousy,  prejudice  and  disaffection,  as  to 
divert  th  jir  minds  from  the  pursuit  of  knowledge,  agriculture, 
and  the  means  of  civilization,  which  they  have  been  for  such 
a  length  of  time  so  laudably  engaged  in  obtaining. 

Should  this  be  the  case  with  these  numerous  brave,  and 
formidable  tribes,  the  results  to  them,  and  to  us,  would  be 
indeed  most  calamitous.  To  prevent  such  a  result  I  wrote, 
through  Ellis,  a  long,  cordial,  and  rather  sympathising  letter 
to  the  chiefs  of  these  tribes,  assuring  them  that  I  should  at 
once  write  to  the  governor  of  California,  to  captain  Suter, 
and  to  our  great  chiefs,  respecting  this  matter.  With  a  view 
to  divert  attention,  and  promote  good  feeling,  I  invited  all  the 
chiefs  to  come  down  in  the  fall,  before  the  arrival  of  the  em- 
igrants, in  company  with  Dr.  Whitman  and  Mr.  Spalding, 
and  confer  with  me  upon  this  subject ;  at  the  same  time,  aa 
they  had  been  so  unfortunate,  to  bring  along  their  ten  dollar 
drafts,  and  exchange  them  with  me  for  a  cow  and  calf,  each 
out  of  my  own  herds.  I  likewise  wrote  them,  that  on  con- 
dition they  would  defer  going  to  C  Mfornia  till  the  spring  of 
1847,  and  each  chief  assist  me  to  the  amount  of  two  bea- 
ver skins,  to  get  a  good  manual  labor  literary  institution  es- 
tablished for  the  English  education  of  their  sons  and  daugh- 
ters— a  subject  they  feel  the  deepest  interest  in — I  would 
use  every  measure  to  get  the  unhappy  affair  adjusted  ;  and, 
as  a  token  of  my  regard  for  them,  would,  from  my  private 
funds,  give  the  chiefs  five  hundred  dollars,  to  assist  them  in 
purchasing  young  cows  in  California.  I  likewise  proffered, 
as  they  are  so  e»,ger,  for  it,  to  start  the  English  school  next 
fall,  by  giving  them  the  services  of  Mr.  Lee,  my  interpreter, 
for  four  months,  commencing  in  November  next. 

EUis  more  than  properly  appreciated  my  motives  and  prof- 


■M,        VS 


t 


TKN  YEARS   IN   ORKGOK. 


261 


fcrs,  aud  said  he  was  of  the  full  belief  t  hat  the  chiefs  would 
accede  to  my  proposition ;  spoke  of  the  importance  of  the 
English  school,  and  of  the  strong  and  general  desire  to  ob- 
tain it.  He  left  in  high  hopes  of  a  continuance  of  peace 
and  onward  prosperity  to  his  people. 

A  few  days  later  brought  me  into  another  excitement  and 
difficulty,  at  Vancouver.  Tw<»  young  men,  named  in  Mc- 
Laughlin's communication  to  this  government — a  copy  of 
which,  marked  A,  together  with  a  reply,  accompanied  these 
despatches — crossed  the  Columbia  river,  and,  unobserved,  in 
the  midst  of  a  little  thicket  something  over  half  a  mile  from 
fort  Vancouver,  felled  some;  timber — threw  up  a  few  logs  in 
the  shape  of  a  hut,  intending  soon  to  finish  it — put  up  a  pa- 
per upon  a  contiguous  tree,  stating  that  they  had  commen- 
ced and  intended  to  establish  a  claim  agreeably  with 

here  the  note  ended.  Some  one  about  the  establishment,  ob- 
serving the  paper  and  commencement  of  the  hut,  reported 
it  to  the  governor,  who  sent  down  at  once  and  had  all  the 
timber  removed  from  tlie  vicinity ;  the  tree  felled,  and  that, 
with  the  paper  likewise,  removed.  They  had  hardly  cleared 
the  ground  when  the  claimants  arrived  with  a  surveyor,  and 
commenced  surveying  off  a  section  of  land,  embracing  the 
post  first  commenced  upon.  They  were  enquired  of,  at  the 
instance  of  Gov.  McLaughlin,  as  to  their  object  and  inten- 
tions. They  at  once  laid  down  the  chain,  dropt  all  business, 
and  walked  up  to  the  fort.  Several  respectable  and  influen- 
tial citizens  happened  to  be  present  on  business,  who,  with 
myself,  were  respectfully  invited  to  hear  the  discussion. 

Williamson,  a  modest  and  respectable  young  man,  de- 
meaned himself  with  propriety  ;  but  Alderman,  his  asso- 
ciate, a  boisterous,  hair-brained  young  fellow,  caused  me — 
as  others  do — tc  blush  for  American  honor.     His  language 


252 


TEN    TEARS   IN   ORKOOK. 


was  most  severe,  and,  but  for  the  sake  of  the  country's  quiet, 
could  not  have  been  endured ;  the  governor  and  Mr.  Doug- 
lass displaying  their  usual  calmness  and  forbearance.  J 
heard  the  discussion  for  two  hours  ;  and,  becoming  satisfied 
that  no  possible  good  could  grow  out  of  ft,  remarked  that 
with  the  cheerful  consent  of  both  parties  I  would  give  my 
sense  of  the  matter. 

Each  readily  consenting,  I  thought  best  to  come  up  on  the 
blind  side  of  Alderman ;  treated  his  measures  with  less  severi- 
ty, and  himself  with  more  consideration  and  respect,  than  he 
anticipated  ;  then  spoke  of  Greenough's  construction  of  the 
treaty  between  the  two  governments — which  I  happened  to 
have  with  me — of  the  immense  district  of  country  depend- 
ant upon  this  establishment  for  supplies  in  beef,  pork,  etc., 
and  as  evidence  that  they  had  no  more  land  contiguous  than 
was  necessary  for  their  purposes,  spoke  of  the  number  of 
cattle  and  other  stock  that  had  died  from  starvation  during 
the  last  winter ;  dwelt  upon  the  importance  of  union  and 
good  feeling  among  all  the  whites,  surrounded  as  we  were 
by  savages,  in  our  weak  and  defenceless  conditon,  and  of 
the  propriety  of  establishing  correct  precedents  in  our  im- 
settled  state,  regarding  land  claims  ;  and,  without  advising 
particularly  either  party,  took  my  seat. 

Williamson  and  Alderman  soon  manifested  a  desire  for  a 
private  interview,  which  resulted  in  a  suspension  of  hostil- 
ties  for  the  present,  and  probably  an  abandonment  of  the 
claim. 

Now,  my  dear  sir,  suffer  me  to  write  a  few  things  con- 
cerning this  country,  which  seem  to  me  strongly  to  demand 
the  speedy  attention  of  the  members  of  our  government. 
Take  fifty  men  from  the  colony,  of  the  most  intelligence, 
firmness,  and  prudence,  and  anarchy  and  confusion  follow. 


TIN   TEARS  IN    OREO  05. 


263 


Suffer  a  free  introduction  of  ardent  spirits,  and  desolation, 
horror,  dismay,  and  bloodshed  ensue.  Never  were  a  people 
more  illy  prepared  for  Bclf-government,  nor  moie  unfavora- 
bly circumstanced  to  succeed — aside  from  the  single  fact  of 
the  absence  of  intoxicating  drinks. 

Sir,  too  great  a  portion  of  our  population  comes  from  the 
western  suburds  of  civilization,  for  one  moment'H  safety  to 
us  in  our  present  condition.  I  know  not  but  I  have  as  much 
patience  as  most  men,  but  am  heartily  tired  of  this  state  of 
things.  Nor  would  I  run  the  risk  again,  by  land  and  water, 
from  whites  and  savages,  for  the  safety  and  quietness  of  the 
colony  and  country,  for  all  the  wealth  of  earth.  I  have  not 
hhrunk  from  toil,  danger,  nor  hardships,  and  though  alone- 
handed  and  unsustained,  black-balled  and  traduced,  aston- 
ishing to  say,  my  measures  have  as  yet  succeeded.  I  think 
of  the  past  with  a  clear  conscience,  yet  at  present,  at  peace 
as  we  are,  I  look  upon  our  critical  condition  with  an  anxious, 
aching  heart,  feeling  that  the  members  of  our  government 
err  exceedingly  towards  their  citizens  in  Oregon. 

As  I  have  so  often  said  of  this  lower  country,  with  its 
beauty,  excellence  of  soil,  and  mildness  of  climate,  it  might 
be  rendered  the  paradise  of  earth ;  but,  sir,  every  thing  is 
jeoparded  by  the  tardiness  of  our  government  measures  ; 
not  only  the  poor,  injured  natives,  but  the  whites  generally, 
have  become  wearied  to  impatience  in  waiting  for  an  expres- 
sion from  our  government,  and  disaffection,  with  a  want  of 
confidence,  is  taking  the  place  of  previous  warm  feeling  and 
strong  attachment. 

I  regret  this  exceedingly,  but  feel  it  my  duty  to  speak  out 
in  truth  and  distinctness  on  this  important  point.  I  have 
said  and  done  what  I  could  to  keep  up  confidence  and  hope ; 
but  already  demagogues  are  haranguing  in  favor  of  inde- 


I 


254 


TEN    YEARS   IN   OREGOIT. 


i'Vi. 


1 .  . 


■A''-.' 


pendcncc,  and  using  the  most  disparaging  language  regard- 
ing the  measures  of  our  government  as  a  reason  for  action. 
These  arc  but  the  beginnings,  and,  though  I  am  ghid  to  say 
such  sentiments  do  not  generally  obtain,  yet  they  are  more 
fa\'orably  listened  to  this  year  than  last ;  their  natural  results 
and  practical  tendency  you  Avill  readily  perceive. 

Your  annual  report  of  1843  reached  me  only  a  few  days 
since,  having  been  broken  open  on  the  way,  then  put 
into  the  hands  of  Indians,  and  forwarded  to  me  through  that 
channel.  And  while  I  have  to  regret  never  having  received 
any  thing  from  your  pen,  be  assured  I  am  not  insensible  to 
the  honor  done  me,  in  speaking  as  you  did  of  my  report, 
through  yours  of  1843  to  the  secretary  of  war.  I  feel  any 
kind  expression  from  home  the  more  sensibly,  from  the  tor- 
rent of  opposition  I  have  been  forced  to  meet  and  contend 
with  here  ;  but  I  am  happy  to  observe  that  my  influence  is 
increasing,  and  my  measures  are  being  better  understood  and 
appreciated. 

Influence  here  is  most  important ;  I  felt  this  strikingly  a 
few  weeks  since.  Three  among  the  most  correct  and  sensi- 
ble men  of  the  colony  formed  a  co-partnership  to  enter  largely 
upon  the  brewery  business.  They  had  already  taken  some 
steps ;  and  as  the  business  promised  to  be  lucrative,  the  prob- 
abilities were  against  me  in  attempting  to  dissuade  them 
from  their  purpose.  I  visited  them,  labored  calmly,  honest- 
ly, and  faithfully,  and  felt  the  difference  of  dealing  or  talk- 
ing with  men  of  sense  and  principle,  over  many  with  whom 
I  have  to  do  in  Oregon. 

The  interview  broke  up  most  agreeably,  not  an  unpleasant 
sentence  having  passed ;  the  gentlemen  engaging  to  give  me 
their  decision  very  soon.  This  was  communicated  to  me  two 
days  after,  in  a  delicate  and  handsome  manner,  which  was 


TKJf   TEARS    IN   OIIEGON. 


ar.r 


bo 


entirely  to  my  wislics,  the  business  being  aUogetlier  aban- 
doned. This  was  most  gratifying  to  mc,  as  from  such  a 
quarter  should  beer  be  introduced,  it  would  be  impossible  for 
us  to  prevent  the  introduction  of  stronger  drink  into  the  col- 
ony and  country,  which,  of  all  others,  is  most  illy  prepared 
to  receive  it. 

The  colony,  now  numbering  about  four  thousand,  is  in  a 
most  flourishing  state,  and  I  am  doubtful  if  any  like  number 
arc  more  pleased  or  better  contented  in  our  wide  domain. 
The  schools  of  the  country  during  the  last  winter  have  been 
well  sustained  ;  I  have  contributed  to  each,  as  was  necessa- 
ry, from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars,  to  pay  rents,  etc.,  and  to  en- 
courage them  forward  in  their  laudable  struggle  to  educate 
their  rising  families. 

I  attended  the  examination  of  the  Methodist  institute 
school  a  few  weeks  since,  and  was  most  agreeably  impressed 
regarding  the  institution. 

The  pleasant  deportment  and  improved  manners  of  the 
young  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  school,  saying  nothing  of 
their  astonishing  advancement  in  the  different  dcpartment-s 
of  literature,  was  a  cause  of  the  highest  gratification.  I 
have  nowhere  attended  an  examination,  taking  all  things  into 
the  account,  more  creditable  to  the  principal  or  institution. 
I  have  called  for  a  report,  but  am  sorry  it  has  not  yei  como 
to  hand. 

The  branches  taught  i  re  rhetoric,  grammar,  geography, 
arity'"*ietic,  read'ng,  writing,  and  spelling.  The  most  en- 
lightened and  best  disposed  are  using  their  influence  to 
strengthen  the  organization,  rnd  perfect  the  laws  of  the  col- 
ony. Many  are  favorable  to  vhe  adoption  of  a  constitution, 
by  calling  a  convention  for  that  purpose  the  present  season. 
This  being  the  most  enlightened  sense,  and  meeting  with  lit- 


.Svljii 


256 


TEN  TEARS  IN    OREQOIT. 


tie  opposition,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  it  will  preva'V 
Should  this  be  effected,  the  constitution,  accompanied  with 
a  petition,  will  probably  be  forwarded  by  a  delegate  from 
this  country  to  Washington  city  the  coming  winter.  As  the 
friends  to  the  constitution  generally  wWh  best  to  the  coun- 
try, and  desire  to  have  every  thing  so  conducted  as  not  to 
embarrass,  but  meet  with  acceptance  at  home,  I  am  solicited 
to  be  said  delegate,  and  represent  the  wants  of  Oregon.  A 
circulating  medium  is  greatly  needed ;  however,  the  enter- 
prise and  onward  march  of  this  people  cannot  easily  be  re- 
pressed. Through  the  auspices  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany almost  every  man,  requesting  and  needing  it,  is  helped 
to  suflBcient  means  to  commence  on  his  section  of  land  ;  and, 
certainly,  by  far  the  greater  number  give  evidence  of  well- 
placed  confidence.  The  prairies  are  dotted  over  with  hou- 
ses, and  the  fruitful  fields  are  spreading  out  widely  all  around 
us.  Moral  and  religious  influence,  I  regret  to  say,  is  wa- 
ning ;  yet  it  is  gratifying  to  observe  an  increasing  intereso 
upon  the  subject  of  schools  and  education ;  and  I  am  happy 
to  say  we  have  now  eleven  schools  this  side  of  the  moim- 
tains,  most  of  them  small,  to  be  sure,  but  they  are  exerting 
a  salutary  and  beneficial  influence. 

Pardon  the  length  and  want  of  interest  of  my  report. 
Did  not  duty  hold  me  here,  or  had  I  funds  appropriated  to 
travel  abroad  to  explore  this  delightful  region  of  surround- 
ing country,  from  what  I  learn  of  vague  reports,  I  have  lit- 
tle doubt  but  much  interesting,  curious  and  important  infor- 
mation might  be  collected.  But  here  I  am,  doomed  to  sit, 
watch,  and  sometimes  almost  fight  for  peace  between  whites 
and  Indians — the  question  of  right  and  wrong  becoming 
more  and  more  complicated  continually ;  while  here,  allow 
me  to  say,  the  settling  these  difficulties  necessarily  costs  me 


h*- 


'  '\ 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREOOK. 


25Y 


r^y 


not  a  little.  I  believe  most  fully,  in  making  a  settlement 
with  an  Indian  or  tribe,  to  liave  it  a  happy,  earnest  and  hearty 
one  ;  and,  in  order  to  affect  this,  they  require  a  present  as  a 
seal.  And,  sir,  this  is  my  principal  means  of  usefulness  or 
influenc  over  these  poor,  and,  in  many  instances,  injured  na- 
tives. Their  seeming  confidence  and  regard  makes  one  the 
more  patient  and  cheerful  in  doing  for  them  ;  nor  can  I  com- 
plain, as  so  many  east  of  the  mountains  have  been  obliged 
to,  of  violated  faith  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  From  all  I 
can  learn,  much  of  which  little  reliance  is  to  be  placed,  there 
appears  to  be  about  twenty-seven  thousand  Indians  in  the 
territory,  allowing  it  to  extend  to  54°  40'  north  latitude. 

Mr.  Lee's — my  interpreter — report  accompanying  this, 
you  will  observe.  I  would  have  accompanied  him  but  for 
the  season  of  the  year,  and  the  prevalence  of  the  dysen- 
tery, which  is  sweeping  off  the  natives  of  this  lower  coun- 
try. This  gave  rise  to  Dr.  Long's  bill,  which,  I  hope,  will 
be  honored,  as  it  was  a  work  of  humanity  as  well  as  policy. 
I  directed  it,  as  I  could  not  possibly  attend  to  tliose  and 
these  at  the  same  time,  there  being  about  forty  miles  be- 
tween us. 

I  hope.  Providence  permitting,  to  have  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  you  and  the  other  gentlemen  of  the  departments,  at 
Washington,  in  a  fcv^  weeks,  or  months  at  longest,  after  this 
reaches,  and  of  explainin-^  my  accoimts  and  reasons  for  ex- 
penditures. 

I  had  not  expected  to  draft  on  the  department  thin 
spring ;  but  there  was  no  other  means  of  settling  with 
Gov.  McLaughlin,  for  the  want  of  a  circulating  medium 
through  which  to  operate. 

Enclosed  is  a  letter  from  Peter  H.  Burnett,  Esq.,  which 


17 


268 


TEN   YEARS  IS    OREOOy. 


I  proposed  forwarding  in  my  last  despatches,  but  received 
too  late  for  transmission. 

With  great  respect,  I  am,  dear  sir, 

your  most  humble  and  obedient  servant, 

ELIJAH  WHITE, 
Sub-agent  Indian  Affairs,  W.  R.  M. 


t«N   TEARS    IN  OREGON. 


269 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Thrilling  elory — A  slave  slain  and  buried  with  his  master — Strange 
custom — Inducements  to  the  doctor  to  take  the  journey  home — En- 
deavors to  discover  a  new  route  through  the  Cascade  mountaine — 
Sealing  a  mountain — Vegetation — Snows — Fine  view — Masses  of 
rocks — Mt.  Hood — Disheartened — Return  to  (he  base  of  the  moun- 
tain— Molalah  Indians — Disappointment — Wheat — Petrified  ash — 
Advantages  for  settling — Deer  and  elk — Wild  cat — New  determina- 
tion-—Fine  country — Mounds — Mt.  Spencer — Ascent  laborioufi — 
Shrubs — Incident — Stupendous  view — Descent, 

During  the  year  1844,  Mr,  Perkins  arrived  in  the  colony, 
bringing  with  him  a  boy  whom  he  had  released  from  tho 
dead-house  at  Wiscopum.  He  was  a  bright  looking  little 
fellow,  intelligent  and  active,  an  object  of  universal  interest 
and  attraction,  and  the  account  of  his  late  dismal  nocturnal 
imprisonment,  created  mingled  feelings  of  pity,  horror,  and 
disgust.  Of  his  earliest  history  they  could  learn  nothing, 
except  that,  at  five  or  six  years  of  age,  he  was  capturei 
from  his  own  tribe,  the  Chestcs,  by  the  Clamuts.  It  seems 
that  the  men  of  the  tribe  were  hunting,  and  the  women  ta- 
king their  offspring  with  them,  went  out  into  the  woods  and 
prairies  to  pick  berries,  whnn  their  enemies  found  and  killed 
a  portion  of  them,  taking  the  boy  away  into  slavery.  He 
was  afterwards  sold  to  the  chief  cf  the  Wascopums,  to  be 
the  companion  of  his  own  son,  about  the  same  age,  and  soon 
endeared  himself  in  a  thousand  childish  ways  to  the  whole 
family.  The  boys  were  much  attached  ;  whatever  were  the 
amusements  of  the  young  chief,  his  fellow  participated.    He 


200 


TKS   TEARS  IS   OREGOW. 


h^^'z 


.?. 


I 


received  a  part  of  his  feathers,  shells,  and  little  presents 
Some  time  after  this,  Mr.  Perkins  arrived  among  tliem,  and 
a  great  reformation  commenced  in  this  as  well  as  adjacent 
tribes.  The  sachem's  whole  tribe  were  converted,  much  to 
his  chagrin  and  anger.  He  absolutely  resisted  whatever  in- 
fluence of  the  spirit  which  he  might  have  felt,  and  reproach- 
ed his  tribe  in  bitter  terms  for  their  recreancy.  He  some- 
times, with  flashing  eye  and  angry  voice,  commanded  them 
to  abandon  their  old-womanish  notions  ;  and  at  others,  with 
the  winning  tones,  and  touching  words,  which  the  Indian 
can  so  well  adopt,  attempted  to  persuade  them  to  return  to 
th3  religion  of  their  noble  ancestors.  But  the  work  was  no 
arrested  till — as  it  was  computed — nearly  a  thousand  of 
these  benighted  beings  were  converted.  The  missiwiaries 
were  veiy  solicitous  about  the  rebellious  chief,  mournmg  his 
obstinacy,  and  feaiing  that  some  awful  calamity  would  fall 
upon  him,  and  Mr.  Perkins  with  untiring  zeal,  labored  to 
place  before  him  the  consequences  which  might  follow  if  he 
persevered.  But  he  turned  a  deaf  ear,  saying,  "  he  feared 
not  the  power,  nor  cared  for  the  vengeance  of  the  white  man's 
God."  The  event  too  truly  showed  that  the  predictions 
were  verified,  for  two  years  had  hardly  rolled  away,  before 
disease  and  death  made  frightful  havoc  in  his  family.  His 
brother  died ;  his  wife  and  children  one  after  another  wasted 
and  vanished  from  his  sight,  wringing  his  proud  heart  with 
anguish.  At  length  his  darling,  only  son  was  stricken  down. 
Every  means  known  to  tiieir  jugglery  and  superstition  were 
employed,  but  it  soon  bect:me  apparent  that  he  was  follow- 
ing his  mother  and  sisters.  The  afilicted  father  then  has- 
tened to  the  man  of  God  for  help,  begging  anxiously,  ab- 
jectly, for  restoratives  for  his  poor  boy.  Medicine  Avas  given 
him,  and  with  flying  steps,  and  panting  chest,  he  sped  to  his 


r 


TEX   YKAnS  IN    OREGON. 


261 


r 


gloomy,  solitary  home.  He  rushed  to  the  mat,  and  forcing 
open  the  lips  of  the  sufferer,  placed  the  medicine  upon  the 
already  palsied  tongue.  It  was  unavailing  ;  the  child  could 
not  swallow  ;  the  pure  gem  was  stolen  from  the  frail  casket, 
the  young  spirit  had  fled.  I  cannot  describe  the  stern  sire's 
awful  grief,  hours  and  daya  of  wordless,  noiseless  anguish, 
for  no  man  mourns  as  doos  the  Indian,  who  has  no  certain 
knowledge  of  again  meetmg  the  beloved  one.  Especially 
for  a  son  does  the  warrior  lament,  and  a  warrior  was  this 
father  ;  in  him  he  had  hoped  to  see  the  brave  of  his  younger 
days,  loved  and  admired  by  the  tribe,  his  praises  chaunted 
in  the  war  song  by  the  men,  and  sung  in  love  notes  by  the 
maidens.  At  length  by  meaning  looks  and  gestures  rather 
than  words,  it  was  found  that  the  chief  had  determined  that 
the  deceased  boy's  friend,  who  had  been  his  companion  in 
hunting  the  rabit,  snaring  the  pheasant,  and  fishing  in  the 
streams,  was  to  be  his  companion  to  the  spirit  land  ;  his  son 
should  not  be  deprived  of  his  associate  in  the  strange  world 
to  which  he  had  gone  ;  that  associate  should  perish  by  the 
hand  of  his  father,  and  be  conveyed  with  him  to  the  dead- 
house.  This  receptacle  was  built  on  a  long  black  rock  in  the 
centre  of  the  Columbia  river,  around  which,  being  so  near 
the  falls,  the  current  was  amazingly  rapid.  It  was  thirty 
feet  in  length,  and  perhaps  half  that  in  breadth,  completely 
enclosed  and  sodded,  except  at  one  end  where  was  a  narrow 
aperture  just  sufficient  to  carry  a  corpse  through.  The  coun- 
cil overruled,  and  little  George,  instead  of  being  slain  was 
conveyed,  living,  to  the  dead-house  about  sunset.  The  dead 
were  piled  on  each  side,  leaving  a  narrow  aisle  between,  and 
on  one  of  these  was  placed  the  deceased  boy,  and  bound 
tightly  till  the  purple,  quivering  flesh  puffed  above  the  strong 
bark  cords ;  that  he  might  die  very  soon,  the  living  was  pla- 


2«2 


TKN    TEAKS    IN    OREO  OK. 


K  ■■ 


ced  by  his  side,  his  face  to  his,  till  the  very  lips  met,  and  ex- 
tended along  limb  to  limb,  and  foot  to  foot,  and  nestled  down 
iato  his  couch  of  rottenness,  to  impede  his  breathing  as  far 
as  possible,  and  smother  his  cries.  And  so  they  left  him, 
unheeding  his  piteous  prayers,  although  his  shiieks  and 
Kcreams  were  so  aoronizinfj  that  a  tear  stood  in  the  eve  of 
even  his  master,  and  he  closed  his  ears  that  he  might  shut 
out  these  fearful  sounds.  They  left  the  child  surrounded 
>Yith  heaps  of  hideous,  festering  dead ;  the  cold,  clammy 
reptile  crawling  over  his  quaking  flesh,  as  it  toiled  to  and  fro 
in  its  feast  of  loathsomeness,  choking  with  the  hot,  fulsome, 
putrid  vapors  of  his  ghostly  bed.  That  night  the  intelli- 
gence reached  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins,  and  till  morning  they 
were  obliged  to  endure  the  agony,  for  it  was  nothing  else, 
of  imagining  the  sufferings  of  the  victim,  for  it  would  have 
been  worse  than  presumption  to  attempt  his  rescue,  for  the 
night  was  intensely  dark,  and  in  the  day  time  the  rock  was 
extremely  difficult  of  access.  At  the  dawn  of  day,  Mrs. 
Perkins  looking  almost  like  a  corpse,  they  left  their  home 
and  reached  the  rock,  some  three  miles  distant,  before  sun- 
rise. Mr.  Perkins  forced  open  the  tomb,  and  after  w  'ting 
till  the  steaming,  death-fumes  had  partially  escaped,  they 
entered  and  searched  for  the  boy.  They  found  him  stretch- 
ed on  the  ground,  for  in  his  struggles  he  had  kicked  himself 
off  the  pile  of  dead,  and  now  lay  perfectly  insensible  and  al- 
most breathless.  They  conveyed  him  to  the  open  air,  which 
with  all  their  anxious  efforts,  for  a  long  time  failed  to  revive 
him.  He  at  last  gasped  convulsively,  but  his  senses  for 
some  time  refused  to  comi  unicate  to  his  bewildered  brain, 
the  reality.  Imagining  he  was  yet  in  that  horrid  cell,  he 
was  mad  with  frantic  terror.  He  str.iined  his  blood-shot 
eyes  in  their  sockets,   threw  about  his  poor  freed  limbs, 


1 


T£K    V£AR3  IK    ORSOON. 


263 


acrearaed,  and  raved  of  the  sights  he  had  seen,  and  voices 
of  the  dead  lie  liad  licard  whispering  in  his  cars,  and  their 
cold,  bony  hands  griping  his  throat ;  in  short,  every  fright- 
ful thing,  the  fancy  of  a  child  is  so  fruitful  in  conjuring. 
His  hearers  could  not  avoid  shuddering.  But  when  he 
became  conscious  of  his  situation,  it  was  affecting  to  witness 
his  transports.  He  clasped  his  mutilated  arms  around  Mrs, 
P.'s  neck,  kissed  her  passionately,  and  caressed  her  face  and 
hair  with  his  swollen  hands,  and  called  her  by  the  most  en- 
dearing names,  and  her  teai-s  fell  upon  his  burning  brow,  as 
she  held  him  in  her  arms,  his  head  pressed  against  her  cheek. 
This  seems  to  contradict  the  received  assertion  of  some,  that 
the  Indian  is  created  without  gratitude,  but  if  this  boy's 
feelings  were  not  those  of  gratitude,  it  was  something  of  a 
still  more  holv  and  elevated  nature.  When  Dr.  White  saw 
him,  three  and  even  six  months  after,  his  limbs  yet  showed 
the  traces  of  his  torture,  for  where  the  ligatures  had  been 
drawn  the  tightest  the  wounds  were  yet  raw  and  unhealed, 
causing  considerable  suffering. 

Mr.  Shortess,  a  member  of  the  legislature,  and  a  respec- 
table gentleman,  on  his  way  to  visit  the  Willamette  settle- 
ment, some  sixty  miles  below  fort  Vancouver,  hearing  a  very 
singular  wailing  on  shore,  put  in.  He  found  considerable 
of  an  encampment  of  Indians,  He  was  received  in  perfect 
silence,  some  sitting  and  others  standing  about,  seeming 
scarcely  to  notice  the  intruder  except  by  a  simple  raising  of 
their  dark  eyes.  At  length  seeing  one  of  them,  a  man,  in 
a  state  of  extraordinary  restlessness,  though  uttering  nf.« 
sound,  he  ventured  to  break  the  stillness  by  inquiring  th^' 
cause,  A  chief  informed  him  that  the  man  was  a  slave,  his 
master  had  lately  died,  and  that  he  was  doomed  to  death, 
and  to  be  buried  with  him.     Shortess  was  startled,  and  used 


y-V. 


'^u-:r'i 


264 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


^^  ■'  I 


^v- 


every  measure,  and  persuasion  in  his  power,  to  save  the  poor 
wretch  from  his  terrible  destiny,  but  in  vain,  for  he  was  either 
answered  by  a  moody  silence,  or  a  few  brief  words  of  dis- 
approval, and  was  at  last  obliged,  reluctantly,  to  leave,  or 
witness  the  fearful  ceremony,  receiving  no  encouragement 
whatever  that  it  was  possible  to  avert  the  fate  of  the  poor 
slave.  Were  such  revolting  customs  done  away  among  the 
tribes,  the  whites  would  lose  half  the  disgust  and  terror  with 
which  they  now  regard  many  of  them. 

Among  the  many  strange,  and  sometimes,  brutal  practi- 
ces, is  one  among  the  north-west  coast  savages,  of  the  great 
man  of  the  tribe  biting  the  arms  of  the  chief  by  way  of 
favor.  This  occurs  once  a  year,  during  an  annual  festival,  at 
Avhich  their  religious  ceremonies  are  commingled.  Near  the 
close,  the  lodges  of  the  warriors  being  contiguous  to  the  high 
chiefs,  at  a  given  signal  he  suddenly  emerges  from  his  dom- 
icil,  abruptly  running  to  the  lodge  of  his  first  favorite, 
rudely  tears  away  a  portion  of  the  roof,  and  plunges  through 
it  instead  of  entering  at  the  door.  The  inmate  then  quickly 
throws  up  his  skin  robe,  and  undergoes  the  biting  process., 
the  inflictor  beginning  by  inserting  his  teeth  at  the  wrist, 
and  proceeding  upward  to  the  shoulder,  in  proportion  to  the 
love  he  bears  the  owner  of  the  tortured  limb.  This  is  car- 
ried on  from  lodge  to  lodge  of  each  chief,  as  he  is  beloved, 
receiving  these  marks  of  aflfection,  some  only  half  way  to  the 
elbow,  others  to  the  elbow  itself,  and  shoulder.  The  flesh  is 
bitten  severely,  fairly  chewed  to  the  bone,  so  that  it  peels 
and  drops  off,  but  this  is  disregarded,  the  most  badly  mas- 
ticated being  very  proud  and  exhibiting  the  limb  to  his  fel- 
lows in  great  triumph. 

The  Crows,  the  most  daring  and  enterprising  tribe  of  the 
raoimtains,  have  a  custom  more  singular,  if  possible  than  the 


> 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


265 


II 


above.  At  the  lo'="5  of  a  friend,  they  bite  off  one  joint  of  a 
finger.  This  is  sometimes  continued  till  the  members  are 
nearly,  and  often  quite  demolished. 

The  doctor  was  now  solicited  to  return  to  the  United 
States  by  the  legislative  body  of  Oregon,  which  was  sitting 
at  the  commencement  of  Mr.  Polk's  presidential  campaign, 
as  the  most  fitting  person  to  represent  the  wants  and  condi- 
tion of  the  people.  He  also  bore  the  first  memorial  and  pe- 
tition of  such  a  body,  of  the  territory — though  several  had 
been  sent  out  by  the  citizens — praying  the  government  to 
extend  jurisdiction  over  the  country.  " 

He  started  about  the  12th  of  July,  with  a  party  of  eight 
men,  determined  to  find  a  road  through  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains to  the  states,  which  should  be  more  advantageous  than 
the  old  one,  to  future  immigrants.  Joseph  Gale,  an  old 
mountaineer,  Battens  Du  Guerre,  Joseph  Charles  Saxton, 
Orus  Brown,  Moses  Horries  and  John  Edmunds,  with  a  couple 
others,  composed  the  little  force.  They  launched  out  on  the 
plains  in  an  eastern  direction,  till  they  reached  the  foot  of  the 
mountains.  The  morning  after  their  first  encampment,  they 
penetrated  into  an  opening  from  which  issued  a  stream, 
which  they  traced  some  eighteen  miles  ;  after  which  they 
began  in  a  winding  direction,  to  scale  the  rugged  sides  of 
the  mountain.  As  they  progressed,  they  found  the  ascent 
more  rapid,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  few  stinted  straw- 
berry blossoms,  though  it  was  the  middle  of  July,  vegega- 
tion  scanty,  and  the  way  much  impeded  by  rocks,  and  fallen 
timber,  till  at  length  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  their 
horses  could  get  forward,  even  by  leading.  Soon  there  were 
patches  of  st.ow,  and  a  half  hour  more  laborious  travelling 
brought  them  to  perpetual  snows,  and  spread  out  before  their 


266 


TEN  YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


^ 


gaze,  as  upon  a  vast  slieet,  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Willa- 
mette. 

On  every  hand  were  piled  huge  .nasses  of  rocks,  without 
vegetation  sufTicicnt  to  feed  a  bird.  For  miles  they  could  see 
nothing  but  apparent  rocks,  and  before  them  Mt.  Hood  tow- 
ering proudly  iome  thousand  feet  above  them.  This  was  too 
appaUing  to  encounter,  and  in  a  most  disheartened  mood, 
they  turned  to  retrace  th  .Ii  steps  to  the  Willamette  valley ; 
80  much  labor  lost. 

They  hastened  back  to  the  gap,  and  turning  to  the  left, 
■•he  doctor  determined  to  follow  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
watching  every  indication,  that  they  might  make  a  new  trial. 
They  had  gone  but  a  short  distance,  when  they  fell  in 
with  a  lodge  of  Molallah  Indians,  among  wliom  they  found 
an  old  elk  hunter.  After  long,  patient  interview.  Doctor 
White  found  that  there  was  no  possibility  of  crossing  this 
stupendous  range,  short  of  fifteen  days*  farther  travel  to  the 
southward,  where,  the  hunter  said,  he  was  informed  by  the 
Clamet  Indians,  that  there  was  a  path  over  the  summits  o' 
the  mountains,  generally  covered  with  snow.  Discouraging 
as  this  was,  the  inquirer  decided  to  investigate  for  himself, 
and  they  accordingly  continued  as  before,  along  the  base  of 
the  mountains  as  far  as  practicable,  through,  what  it  is  but 
just  to  say,  seemed  one  of  nature's  gardens.  In  various  pla- 
ces, where  had  probably  been  Indian  encampments,  they 
found  wheat  growing  in  little  patches,  from  four  to  five  feet 
high,  and  admirably  filled.  On  the  route  also  were  diflfer- 
ent  clover  and  grasses,  in  great  luxuriance.  Near  their  road, 
upon  an  elevation  of  at  least  a  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  quite  away  from  any  water,  they  found  an 
ash  stump,  solidly  petrified,  and  digging  into  the  earth  sev- 
eral feet,  the  roots  Avere  in  the  same  condition.     This  I  will 


TSN    TBARS    IN    ORKOOV. 


267 


) 


leave  for  those  more  curious  and  scientific  tlifin  mys«'lf  to 
account  for.  They  found  many  places,  advantageous  for 
settling,  combining  water,  prairie,  timber  and  excellence  of 
soil.  Farther  south,  the  plains  were  more  extensive,  but  ap- 
parently, not  less  fertile  and  inviting,  and  all  conceded  that 
here  might  be  kept  large  herds,  without  fear  of  exhausting 
the  resources  for  feeding. 

Being  now  at  considerable  distance  from  the  settlements, 
elk  and  deer  abounded  on  the  adjoining  hills,  often  passing 
them  in  droves  of  from  five  to  ten,  aud  sometimes  a  dozen. 
Here  they  enjoyed  some  sport  in  chasing  a  wildcat,  whioli 
sprang  out  from  the  high  grass,  to  a  thicket,  when  they 
mounted  their  horses,  surrounded,  and  succeeded  in  kill- 
ing it. 

Finding  the  assertion  of  their  Indian  friend  true,  and  that 
the  crossing  of  the  Cascade  mountains  in  the  manner  they 
wished,  impracticable,  the  doctor  determined  not  to  return 
to  the  Willamette  without  accomplishing  something  valuable. 
He  therefore  decided  to  find  their  way  across  the  upper 
branches  of  the  river  and  valley,  and  seeking  the  mountains 
bordering  on  the  Pacific,  if  possible,  to  discover  an  eligible 
opening  through  to  the  ocean,  as  there  had  long  been  a  de- 
sire on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants,  to  find  another  way  to  the 
coast  than  by  the  falls  of  the  Willamette  and  the  Columbia 
river. 

After  passing  the  main  branches  without  difficulty,  through 
a  country  well  grassed  and  wooded,  combining  about  an  equal 
proportion  of  timber  and  prairie,  they  emerged  into  a  large 
plain,  interspersed  here  and  there  with  an  oak  orchard  grove, 
and  gazed  upon  scenery  altogether  novel  and  peculiar.  On 
every  hand  were  scattered  mounds,  something  resembling 
haystacks,   from  one  to  five  hundred  feet  in  height.     This 


1Q8 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OUEGOK. 


was  probiibly  occasioned  by  convulsions  of  the  earth,  as  the 
country  elsewhere  showed  evidence  of  previous  volcanic  ac- 
tion. This  was  demonstrated  no  longer  ago  than  1843,  in 
the  nipture  of  Mt,  St.  Ilellens,  as  will  be  read  in  the  agent's 
first  report.  One  of  these  mounds  shot  up,  far  above  its 
fellows,  not  less  tlu  n  seventeen  hundred  or  eighteen  hundred 
feet  in  height.  At  a  glance,  they  discovered  that  from  the 
summit  might  be  gained  a  superb  view  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  the  doctor  and  his  interpreter,  Du  Guerre,  re- 
solved, if  possible,  to  reach  it.  They  set  out  on  horseback, 
and  taking  a  winding  course  through  the  oak  openings,  suc- 
ceeded with  little  difficulty,  for  a  thousand  feet,  when  their 
path  became  more  steep  and  rugged,  and  they  found  them- 
selves under  the  necessity  of  tying  their  horses,  and  finishing 
the  attempt  on  foot.  On  ascending  three  hundred  feet  high- 
er, the  doctor  found  his  professed  half-caste  companion  more 
of  an  Indian  than  a  white  man,  judging  from  his  dexterity, 
for  he  seemed  to  climb  the  steeps  with  the  greatest  ease  and 
skill,  while  with  himself  it  was  a  hard  labor  and  struggle. 
However,  both  were  soon  obliged  to  scramble,  like  four-foot- 
ed animals,  catching  at  every  twig  and  branch,  to  aid 
their  passage  to  the  top,  which  they  reached  in  about  half 
an  hour.  Here  they  found  a  few  tiny  strawberry  vines,  just 
beginning  to  blossom,  and  among  the  rocks  evergreen  shrub- 
bery of  corresponding  growth. 

On  this  rocky  point,  Du  Guerre  scared  up  a  mountain 
black  tailed  deer,  with  a  beautiful  little  fawn,  and  recreant, 
as  most  of  his  race,  to  his  companion's  no  small  vexation, 
Du  Guerre  levelled  his  rifle,  and  broke  one  of  its  legs  above 
the  knee.  The  poor  creature,  with  the  broken  limb  dang- 
ling, went  scampering  off  down  the  broken  steeps,  followed 
by  its  little,  bleating  dependance. 


TIN   TEARS  IN    OREOOX. 


2«a 


% 


Tlicy  now  took  a  deliyhtful  survey  of  the  general  features 
of  the  landscape  before  them.  On  one  hand  Avaa  the  vast 
chain  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  Mt.  Hood  looming  in  soli- 
tar}'  grandeur  far  above  its  fellows ;  on  the  other  was  the 
Umpqua  mountains,  and  a  little  farther  on,  the  coast  ridge. 
Between  these  lay  the  whole  magnificent  panorama  of  the 
Willamette  valley,  with  its  ribbon  streams,  and  carpet-like 
verdure.  The  day  was  fine,  and  such  was  the  clearness  of 
the  atmosphere  that  the  scene  was  very  distinct,  grand  and 
imposing.  In  enthusiastic  admiration  of  the  noble  site,  the 
doctor  named  the  elevation  Mt.  Spencer,  in  compliment  to 
John  C.  Spencer,  the  then  secretary  of  war,  and  j)luckc '. 
some  choice  evergreens,  intending  to  present  tlum  to  the 
daughters  of  this  gentleman ;  but  the  Pawnees  despoiled 
him  of  the  treasure. 

They  now  began  the  descent,  certainly  on  his  part  with 
more  dread  than  he  commenced  the  ascent,  upon  which  the 
half-breed  looked  at  him  with  a  significant  smile  upon  his 
tawny  features.  But  in  a  few  hours  they  joined  their  com- 
panions in  safety,  when  the  interpreter  departed  from  his 
usual  taciturnity,  and  displayed  considerable  eloquence  in 
aescribing  the  stupendous  view  they  had  1;ad  from  Mt.  Spen- 
cer. One  of  the  party  remarked,  that  the  name  was  a  very 
just  one,  for  the  mount  towered  above  its  compeers,  as  nobly 
Hs  did  Mr.  Spencer  among  liis  cotemporaries. 


270 


TEN  YEARS    IN    OREO  ON. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


Indian  encampment — Prairies  and  band  of  Indians — Stream — Separa- 
tion— Spur  of  the  mountains— Horses  left — Indian  village — Sinj[".!ar 
destitution — Embarking  on  the  river — Startling  accident — Swift 
travelling — Sterile  tract — Tide  water — Encamp — Indian  village — 
Craw  fish — Singular  piece  of  meat — Indian  explanation — Th^  ocean 
— Strip  of  land — Boy — Brown's  claim — Railroad  advantages  —Indi- 
an toil — Good  fire — In  siglitof  friends — Breakfast — Astart--A  prer- 
ent — Wolves — Beautiful  country — Arrival  at  •he  colony — Petition — 
Start  again  for  the  states — Party  separate — Meeting  at  the  Dalles — 
Indian  encampment — Wedding  here  to-day — Bride  and  bridegroom 
— Dresses — Whimsical  story— Disappointment  in  obtaining  the  bride's 
beautiful  dress — Murderous  affair — Interesting  account — Deserter — 
Another  threatened — John  Day  river — Saucy  Indians — Wallawallss 
— A  halt — Visiters  and  presents — Agriculture  and  its  cfil-cts — Hot 
Spring — Alann — Keyuses  and  Nez  Perces — Alarming  report — Guard 
— Emigration — Letters — St.  Joseph's  company — 'Mr.  Fisher's  eager- 
ness for  news — A  meal — Odd  reason  for  lagging  behind — Chance  for 
carrying  a  letter — Roguish  girls — Fort  Hall — Runaway  liorse. 

TiiEY  now  struck  a  trail  which  led  to  a  considerable  Indian 
encampment,  whose  inhabitants,  judging  from  their  utter 
ignorance  of  our  language,  had  never  before  seen  a  white 
person.  The  doctor  enquired  of  them  as  well  he  was  able, 
and  had  his  hopes  increased  of  this  being  a  feasible  route  to 
the  Pacific.  They  had  not  progressed  more  than  sixteen  or 
eighteen  miles,  when  they  came  upon  a  beautiful  prairie, 
and  a  large  band  of  Indians.  There  also  they  found  a  large 
stream,  flowing  directly  to  the  ocean,  and  alwunding  in 
quantities  of  the  clioicest  fish.     Dr.  Wliitc  obtained  a  pilot 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


271 


and  left  most  of  the  company,  and  all  the  baggage,  and  with 
three  others,  resolved  to  go  light,  and  expeditiously  as  pos- 
sible to  the  coast.  They  soon  reached  the  second  spur  of 
the  mountain,  which  was  so  difficult,  and  wearisome  to  climb, 
that  the  doctor,  overcome  by  heat  and  fatigue,  offered  a  dol- 
lar and  a  half  for  a  pint  of  water,  which  the  poor  guide  ac- 
cepted, and  hastened  down,  but  returned  with  only  a  half 
pint  for  the  live.  They  toiled  on  through  some  places  bo 
steep,  that  each  rider  dismounted,  and  seizing  his  steed  by 
the  tail,  Avas  obliged  to  11. jg  him  severely  to  make  him  ad- 
vance, Avhich  he  could  then  only  do,  by  a  few  jumps,  and 
then  falling  upon  his  kness  to  rest.  At  the  top  they  were 
obliged  to  leave  the  horses,  without  a  purtide  of  grass  to 
subsist  upon,  and  make  their  journey  down  on  foot,  and  were 
happy  at  finding  themselves  at  the  river  side. 

Here  they  suddenly  arrived  at  an  Indian  vilLige,  the  inhab- 
itants of  which,  though  there  were  only  five  of  them,  so  un- 
accuston:c'J  were  they  to  the  whites,  fled  like  affrighted  deer, 
and  all  the  peaceable  demonstrations  of  their  visitors  could 
not  induce  them  to  return,  so  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the 
night  in  fearful  apprehensions  of  a  surprise.  However,  there 
was  no  alarm,  and  in  the  morning  they  succeeded  in  persua- 
ding one  of  them  to  come  near,  and  through  him  hired  a  ca- 
noe and  couple  of  men  to  convey  them  down  the  river.  One 
of  these  men  wore  a  single  covering,  consisting  of  a  string 
of  beads  about  his  neck,  and  the  rest  of  the  villagers  seemed 
in  a  like  destitute  condition,  for  which  the  white  men  were 
unable  to  account,  as  the  hills  abounded  with  game,  and  the 
waters  with  fish. 

They  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  in  their  frail  biirk, 
when  they  discovered  the  river  to  be  very  rapid  ;  they  were 
tKK)n  in  a  succession  of  rapids  and  cascades,  and  shooting  (or 


.'.1.-.  '• 


272 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


lit.- 


US' 


11] 


.11 


ward  with  great  velocity,  when  the  bow  of  the  canoe  struck 
a  large  rock,  and  instantly  split  two-thirds  its  length.  The 
channel  was  very  winding,  and  all  that  saved  the  crew  from 
instant  death,  was,  that  the  steersman,  with  true  Indian  dex- 
terity, clenched  his  paddle  to  a  rock,  and  Avith  a  shrill  scream 
and  significant  motion  of  the  head,  warned  them  to  spring 
upon  the  rock,  and  never  did  obsequious  servants  obey  with 
greater  alacrity.  For  four  or  five  hours  they  anxiously  pa- 
ced the  rock,  while  the  boatmen  returned  for  another  canoe. 
The  one  which  they  brought  was  still  more  slender  tl\an  the 
other,  and  having  a  strange  river  to  navigate,  the  doctor  had 
some  difficulty  in  persuading  Brown  to  go  farther,  he  decla- 
ring that  the  fates  were  against  them,  as  regarded  both  the 
states  and  Pacific.  However,  they  were  again  seated,  and 
travelled  swiftly  through  ten  or  twelve  miles  of  mountainous 
region,  of  the  most  forbidding  character,  a  fit  haunt  for 
elk,  wolves  and  bears,  and  men  as  savage  as  they. 

As  they  neared  the  sea,  the  current  moderated  in  strcgth, 
mountains  lessened  in  height,  and  nature  put  on  a  more  cheer- 
ful garb,  and  they  were  soon  in  tide  water,  where  a  vessel 
of  common  draught  could  easily  float. 

Within  a  few  miles  of  their  destination  they  bivouacked  for 
the  night;,  which  passed  drearily  and  hungrily,  for  they  had 
left  their  food  with  their  horses,  and  had  eaten  nothing  for 
twenty-four  hours,  except  a  few  roasted  fish  two  inches  in 
length.  The  next  morning  they  discovered  a  large  village, 
and  hazardous  as  it  appeared,  hunger  overcome  prudence, 
and  the  doctor  ordered  a  halt.  They  found  the  Indians 
friendly,  and  procured  a  quantity  of  craw  fish,  which  in  the 
native  mode  of  cooking,  was  partly  roasted,  and  partly  steam- 
ed. This  being  the  first  clean  food  they  had  had,  they 
lost  no  time  in  breaking  the  shells,  and,  at  first  thought,  it  de- 


TKN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


273 


sel 

id  for 
had 
(/  for 
les  ia 
llage, 
[ence, 
Idians 
In  tlie 
:eam- 
they 
lit  de- 


licious, but  perhaps  from  its  richness,  without  any  other  food, 
it  s<  »on  lost  its  agreeable  flavor.  Presenting  their  entertainers 
with  a  few  trifles,  they  departed,  followed  by  them  to  the 
fchore,  and  regarded  with  curious  scrutiny. 

They  had  been  afloat  but  a  few  moments  when,  to  their  no 
umall  alarm,  they  saw  several  canoes  following  them  with 
great  rapidity.  As  they  neared  them,  an  old  chief  in  the 
forward  canoe,  held  up  a  piece  of  meat,  dried  and  smoked, 
about  eighteen  inches  long,  and  two  inches  square,  a  perfect 
mass  of  fatness,  excepting  a  remarkably  thick  rind,  which 
he  wished  to  exchange  for  some  of  their  commodities.  The 
article  was  entiiely  new  to  the  whites,  and  they  knew  not 
what  to  call  it.  It  was  at  first  the  opinion  that  it  was  bear's 
meat,  but  one  declared  that  from  no  portion  of  the  animal 
could  a  piece  of  this  description  be  obtained.  When  they 
became  more  familiar  with  the  bearer,  they  learned  it  was 
from  the  seal,  and  from  his  singularly  happy  motions,  and 
signs,  it  would  appear  that  some  six  or  eight  canoes  had 
encountered  an  enormous  s(;al,  and  had  a  rare  frolic  in  secu- 
ring it.  lie  became  very  eloquent,  and  enthusiastic  in  de- 
scribing, the  breaking  of  spears  and  upsetting  of  canoes,  and 
taking  his  relation  for  truth,  he  was  a  very  prominent  actor 
in  the  important  achievement.  While  the  old  man  wsis  elab- 
orating upon  this  topic,  they  came  in  full  view  of  the  ocesin, 
and  his  story  instantly  lost  all  its  interest. 

They  entered  a  beautiful  little  bay,  capable  of  securely 
sheltering  a  large  number  of  ships.  Between  this  and  the 
sea  lay  a  wide  strip  of  land,  with  light,  sandy  soil,  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  grass,  peculiar  to  such  soils,  and  they 
found  the  huts  of  sixty  or  seventy  natives  dotted  about  on 
this  flat.  The  country  on  the  coast  was  well  timbered,  hilly 
but  not  mountainous,  and  they  judged  it  capable  of  cultiva- 
18 


^«:   -'■ 


274 


TKN    TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


"'.■b, 


tion.  On  questioning  the  natives  carefully  relative  to  the 
depth  of  til 3  entrance  to  the  bay  from  the  sea,  the  doctor 
supposed  it  to  be  about  eleven  feet.  Satisfied  with  attaining 
their  object,  they  started  for  the  Willamette,  followed  to  the 
river  bank  by  the  Indians,  giving  them  to  understand  they 
had  never  before  seen  a  pale  face  in  this  place. 

As  they  passed  up  the  bay,  Brown  laid  claim  to  a  certain 
spot,  where  he  said  he  had  no  doubt  there  would  some  day 
be  an  immense  city,  as  there  were  good  facilities  for  cutting 
a  railroad  from  Willamette  to  the  coast,  and  thereby  a  way 
provided  to  convey  materials  to  build  such  a  city.  In  one 
day  they  reached  the  point  where  they  had  left  their  hor- 
ses, and  never  did  sinful  children  of  Adam  toil  harder,  or 
more  dexterously  than  did  the  poor  Indians  with  their  poles 
and  paddles,  in  taking  them  up  the  river.  Night  arrived, 
and  our  friends  were  supperless  in  the  midst  of  a  cold  rain 
storm.  They  managed  to  set  fire  to  an  old  lir  stub,  whi'jh 
burned  much  better  thirty  feet  above  than  where  they  w'sh- 
ed  it  to.  The  blankets  being  wet,  and  cinders  continually 
falling  aroimd  them,  the  hours  passed  most  uncomforably, 
and  the  morning  found  them  Aveary  and  irritable,  and  the 
irritiibility  was  not  lessci'.jd  b}''  the  consideration  that  they 
had  yet  six  miles  t  j  travel  before  breakfasting.  When  they 
reached  the  top  v.f  the  mountain,  eight  miles  distant  from 
the  encampment  where  they  had  left  their  friends,  they  dis- 
charged their  pieces  to  notify  them  of  their  return.  They 
passed  cheerily  down  the  valley,  and  the  good  fellows  know- 
ing, as  they  had  anticipated  they  were  on  short  allowance 
had  coffee  prepared,  and  an  ample  repast.  The  meal,  much 
as  they  recpired  it,  afforded  the  hungry  men  scarcely  mc.o 
pleasure,  than  did  the  report  of  their  successful  enterprise 


'!,,■    S 


I      J 


TEN    YEARS    IK   ORF.GON. 


275 


to  their  companions,  who,  in  their  enthusiasm,  greatly  mag- 
nified the  importance  of  tlie  expedition. 

They  raised  camp,  and  had  proceeded  but  a  few  miles, 
when  they  were  overtaken  by  an  Indian  hunter,  Avith  '-'iiom 
the  party  had  spent  most  of  tlie  time  of  the  doctor's  ab- 
sence, bearing  a  newly  slaughtered  elk,  urging  it  upoa  them, 
and  Avhat  was  more  singular  and  acceptable,  without  com- 
pensation. One  of  the  men  accomplished  with'iim  a  trade 
of  ritles,  and  they  again  moved  forward.  Four  hours  later 
found  them  once  more  on  the  banks  of  the  Wil%',nette,  noth- 
ing unm.ual  occurring  except  a  harmless  ""^'^  iter  with  ft 
flock  of  large,  mountain  wolvc^i,  jittracted  by  the  scent  of 
the  meat.  Three  and  a  half  days  more  travel  through  a 
country  equally  beautiful  with  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
and  they  were  in  the  vicinity  of  the  colony,  and  the  doctor 
had  the  pleasure  of  telling  their  adventures  to  his  friend. 
Gen.  Gillihan,  who,  with  the  people  generally,  was  much 
pleased  with  the  relation.  It  was  this  expedition  which  the 
legislature  took  action  upon,  praying  congress  to  reward  the 
agent  for  his  arduous  labors. 

Late  in  August  Dr.  White  determined  to  take  the  usual 
route  to  the  United  States,  and  obtaining  Harris  for  pilot, 
and  Du  Guerre,  with  three  or  four  others,  he  started  on  the 
15th,  Harris  and  Sax  ton  crossing  the  Cascade  mountains 
with  the  horses,  to  meet  him  at  the  Dalles.  At  Vancouver 
he  was  apprised  of  the  danger  of  going  with  so  small  a  party 
across  such  an  extensive  Indian  country.  But  he  determined 
to  persevere,  and  went  on  to  the  Dalles,  where  the  men  and 
horses  had  already  safely  arrived.  However,  I  havt^  omit- 
ted noticing  two  rather  interesting  incidents  of  his  voyage 
thither.  A  few  miles  above  the  Cascades,  the  party  disem- 
barked to  take  their  dinner,  when  they  discovered  a  large 


t.    ■■^ 


•1." 


SY6 


TKN    YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


t     ,» 


f    . 

kr- 

'■  [ 

Mk 

W"'*'-' 

■<  ■ 

M 


■''V, 


Indian  encampment,  wearing  an  air  of  unusual  cheerfulness. 
The  doctor  felt  some  curiosity  to  know  what  it  meant,  and 
liaving  ordered  the  salmon  and  pott; toes  on  to  boil,  he  ap- 
proached it,  and  saw  the  lodge  was  thrown  open  wide,  and 
every  species  of  Indian  finery  displayed  in  the  best  light. 
The  spot  they  had  selected  for  their  camp  was  a  lovely  one, 
being  an  oak  orchard  grove,  upon  the  side  of  a  pleasant, 
grassy  eminence,  the  rolling  waters  of  the  Columbia  on  one 
side,  and  noble  mountains  on  the  other. 

While  he  was  gazing  anxiously  about,  out  stepped  an  In- 
dian, saying  to  the  interpreter,  "Wedding  here  to-day.'* 
On  hearing  this,  the  doctor  had  no  difficulty  in  distinguish- 
ing the  parties,  for  m  the  centre  of  the  principal  lodge,  sat 
rather  a  pretty  girl  of  eighteen,  clothed  in  a  robe  of  tanned 
and  dressed  elk  skin,  beautifully  embroidered  with  beads, 
and  delicately  fringed  ;  and  by  her  side  reclined  a  stately 
looking  copper  colored  youth,  partly  in  European  garb,  both, 
notwithstanding  the  presence  of  the  strangers,  evidently  in 
ft  very  complacent  mood.  This  was  the  first  Indran  bridal 
Dr.  White  had  ever  attended,  and  he  was  extremely  desirous 
of  obtaining  the  handsome  dress  of  the  bride,  believing  it 
would  be  of  great  interest  to  the  friends  at  home.  AVhile 
fee  was  cogitating  how  to  negotiate  this  delicate  affair.  Chap- 
man strodo  up,  saying,  "  What  now  ?  Things  look  rather 
different  from  what  they  did  two  years  ago,  when  I  was  first 
along  here ;  not  an  Indian  to  be  seen  here,  nor  any  thing 
else  but  a  few  old,  worn  out  cows  of  the  emigration,  with  a 
miserable  boy  to  drive  them.  I  was  nearly  starved  to  death, 
in  the  storm,  and  he  had  nothing  to  eat,  nor  any  thing  to  eat 
it  in,  so  doing  the  very  best  I  could,  I  slipped  off  my  shoe 
'.nd  milked  in  it,  and  drank  out  of  it,  too,  and  was  glad  to 
get  off  80."      This  odd  tale,   told  in  his  peculiar  ludicrou* 


TKN    YEARS   IN    ORKGON. 


211 


Lty\e,  set  his  auditor  laughin<j,  and  put  all  thought  of  the 
dress  out  of  his  head.  It  soon  returned,  and  he  endeavored 
to  strike  a  bargain,  uselessly  though,  for  he  was  gravely 
informed  that  a  very  considerable  sum  could  not  at  this  time 
buy  tht!  article. 

It  is  not  nece-ssary  to  say  more  of  the  marriage  rites,  thar» 
that  so  far  as  the  doctor  could  learn,  they  were  conducted 
in  much  the  same  maimer  that  were  McDomild's  marriai^e 
negotiations  with  Comcomly,  both  parties  exchanging  such 
presents  as  they  had  agreed  upon. 

While  here,  Dr.  White  learned  of  a  most  murderous  affair 
at  the  Dalles,  in  which  two  Indians  were  said  to  have  been 
chopped  entirely  to  pieces.  He  hastened  to  the  spot,  and  as 
they  saw  him,  the  squaw  and  daughters  of  one  of  the  deceas- 
ed set  up  a  mournful  wailing.  lie  investigated,  and  fouud 
that,  as  in  most  other  cases,  the  disturbance  had  been  caus- 
ed by  family  feuds.  It  seemed  that  formerly  a  member  of  a 
family  had  been  killed,  and  as  was  the  custom,  his  friends  had 
slain  his  slayer,  and  his  friends  in  return  one  of  the  other 
family,  till  with  the  last  two,  the  males  of  both  families  had 
become  nearly  extinct.  Having  no  time  to  redress  or  cor- 
rect the  wrong,  he  returned  to  the  canoe,  followed  by  the 
afflicted  wife,  reminding  him  of  a  transaction  two  years  pre- 
vious imd  imploring  him  very  piteously  to  grant  her  protec- 
tion. The  circumstance  to  which  she  alluded  was  as  fol- 
lows. 

At  that  time,  the  agent,  on  official  business,  spent  a  fort- 
night with  Perkins  and  Brewer,  during  which  the  Indian 
chief  died,  leaving  a  large  property  in  herds,  horses,  etc. 
Immediately  after  the  demise  of  an  individual,  it  is  custom- 
ary for  the  head  men  of  the  tribe  to  assemble,  and  distribute 
among  themselves  his  possessions,  excepting  a  small  sharo 


'It 


^\ 


it.    ' 


\-- 


278 


TEN   YEAUS   IN    ORKOOW. 


for  tlie  males  of  tho  family,  leaving  the  females  destitute,  to 
become  the  slaves  of  the  tribe.  Learning  from  Mr.  Brewer  that 
they  were  already  convened,  and  that  the  only  remaining  rel- 
atives of  the  deceased  were  a  wife  and  three  daughters,  the 
doctor  repaired  to  the  place  of  meeting,  determined,  if  pos- 
sible, to  break  up  the  cruel  practice.  On  arriving,  the  distri- 
bution had  in  part  been  made,  and  he  found  it  a  matter  of 
great  delicacy  to  interfere  with,  especially  as  the  chiefs  were 
interested  in  continuing  the  custom.  After  some  reflection, 
the  doctor  deliberately  arose,  and  taking  off  his  coat,  rolled 
it  up,  and  placing  it  at  the  feet  of  the  oldest  chief,  retired  to 
his  seat,  knowing  that  if  it  was  accepted,  his  point  was  gain- 
ed, for  if  a  coat  is  presented  to  and  received  by  a  chief,  the 
giver  is  at  liberty  to  ask  any  favor.  After  a  slight  pause  he 
arose,  and  asked  in  his  own  tongue,  "  What  is  the  wish  of 
the  white  chief?"  He  replied,  that  he  "had  called  to  have 
an  interview  with  him,  and  his  people,  if  it  was  his  pleas- 
ure." The  haranguer  was  sent  out,  and  the  people  assem- 
bled, before  whom  the  "  white  chief "  arose,  and  spoke  of 
their  calamity  in  losing  so  great  a  warrior,  and  told  them  that 
he  would  relate  to  them  what  would  be  done  in  his  own 
country,  at  a  similar  event.  That  at  the  death  of  a  man, 
three  or  five  of  the  wisest  men  among  the  people  would 
meet  to  say  how  his  property  shoidd  be  disposed  of.  He 
asked  them  if  they  thought  this  a  good  law  ?  They  talked 
awhile  among  themselves,  and  then  through  the  chief,  re- 
plied, "it  is  good."  "Then,"  said  the  speaker,  "if  you 
would  please  my  great  chief,  who  sent  me  here,  choose  five 
of  your  wisest  men,  and  let  them  say  what  shall  be  done 
with  your  brother's  possessions."  Some  time  was  occupied 
in  making  this,  to  them,  new  arrangement,  and  then  the  chief 
announced  that  their  visitor  and  four  others  were  elected 


if*''' 


TUN  TEARS  IN    OREOOK. 


270 


urging  as  a  reason  for  his  appointment,  tliat  tlicy  would  not 
know  how  to  proceed  witliout  liis  assistance  and  direction. 
He  then  stated  to  them  in  what  higli  estimation  the  women 
in  his  country  were  held,  and  as  examples  cited  them  to  the 
mission    ladies,    with    whom    they    were    acquainted.     He 
told  them  that  one-third  was  given  to  the  wife,  and  the  resi- 
due to  the  children,  either  sons  or  daughters,  and  that  no 
portion  was  received  by  the  chiefs  unless  they  gave  a  full 
equivalent  in  return.     He  saw  this  caused  some  demur,  and 
said  he   did  not  know  how  the  law  would  suit  his  crood 
friends,  but  that  they  would  retire  and  consult  on  the  mat- 
ter, and  then  the  people  should  know  the  result.     The  com- 
mittee llicn  went  into  privy  council,  constituting  Mr.  Brewer 
their  secretary,  the  old  chief  first  remarking,  that  the  course 
his  brother  had  marked  out  was  very  difficult,  as  it  was  op- 
posed to  their  customs,  and  those  of  their  fathers,  besides, 
bome  of  the  property  had  already  been  given  away.     On 
asking  if  they  had  a  right  to  recal  it,  after  some  delibera- 
tion, it  was  decided  they  had,  and  it  was  restored.     Finallj', 
it  all  ended  as  Dr.  White  wished,  the  Avidow  and  daughters 
receiving  the  w^hole,  excepting  a  few  presents  to  the  head 
men,  for  which  a  return  Avas  made,  and  placed  in  the  com- 
mon fund.     The  doings  were  signed  and  sealed,  and  the  pa- 
pers committed  to  Mr.  Brewer's  keeping,  and  he  two  years 
after  informed  his  friend  that  the  engagements  had  been 
faithfully  fulfilled. 

But  to  return  to  the  homeward  journey,  wliich  was  finally 
renewed  on  the  23d  of  Aug.  The  very  first  morning,  Harris, 
on  whom  the  agent  depended  as  interpreter,  for  the  Sioux 
and  Pawnees,  declared  his  intention  of  returning  to  the  Wil- 
lamette. He  would  give  no  reason  for  so  doing,  and  in  this 
unaccountable  manner,  without  cause  or  provocation,  left 


'tl 


ll>. 


I 


.  t  ■.     ,  . 


¥■.: 


&      1  !i 


280 


TBN    TBARS   IN    OREOOM. 


them.  The  same  day  at  noon  they  reiichcd  the  Dcshutes 
river,  where  Brown  hkewise,  in  great  impatience,  dechircd 
that  he  would  return,  and  Dr.  White's  old  friend,  Hatteua 
Du  Guerre,  who  had  never  before  failed  him,  coincided  with 
the  intended  deserter,  saying  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach 
the  states  with  so  small  a  party.  Their  leader  concealed 
hLs  chagrin,  and  told  them  to  do  as  they  chose,  but  as  long 
as  the  road  lay  open  before  him,  he  .should  go  on.  This  en- 
ded the  matter,  they  followed  on,  and  that  evening  reached 
the  John  Day  river,  named  after  a  famous,  yet  unfortunate 
old  Kentucky  hunter,  who,  from  hardships  encountered  in 
this  region,  became  insane,  died,  and  was  buried,  on  its  banka. 

Here  they  met  a  considerable  body  of  Indians,  whose 
saucy,  boisterous  behavior,  excessively  annoyed  Brown.  It 
was  a  tribe  who  had  been  habitually  troublesome  to  emigra- 
ting parties.  Dr.  White  was  a  little  in  the  rear,  but  came 
up  in  time  to  check  the  excitement,  and  prevent  disturbance. 
He  coolly  said  to  them,  "  you  see  my  party  is  too  small  to 
set  a  guard  over  our  horses  ;  if  any  of  you  want  my  prop- 
erty, go  take  it ;  but  I  expect  to  find  it  all  in  its  proper  place, 
in  the  morning."  To  the  surprise  of  some  of  the  party,  this 
confidence  wns  not  misplaced,  though  poor  Brown  slept  lit- 
tle, and  was  full  of  evil  prophecies. 

On  the  2Gth  they  met  the  Wallawalla  Indians,  on  their 
grounds  near  fort  Willawalla,  and  were  particularly  struck 
with  the  noble  appearance  of  the  young  brave  who  came  out 
to  meet  them.  The  neatness  of  their  plantations,  scattered 
along  the  skiits  of  the  woods,  was  very  creditable  to  their 
skill  and  industry.  Long  strings  of  corn  were  nicely  plaited 
and  hung  outside  their  cabins,  to  dry,  and  every  thing  gave 
indications  of  thrift  and  improvement.  In  a  few  moments  an 
old  chief  came,  and  with  his  hat  under  his  arm,  very  cour- 


I 


m 


TKN    THARfl    IN    OUEQON. 


281 


teously  saluted  the  strangers,  cordially  inviting  them  to  his 
lodge!,  and  could  hardly  bo  prevailed  upcu  to  accept  th(nr 
apologies  and  allow  them  to  proceed.  Tlu^y  moved  two 
miles  farther  and  halted,  when  they  were  visted  by  many  of 
the  tribe,  bringing  with  them  presents  of  the  various  pro- 
ductions of  their  farms.  The  white  men  spent  several  houri 
with  tlu!m,  list(Miing  with  interest  to  descriptions  of  their 
agricultural  pursuits,  and  their  beneficial  efiects,  and  ascri- 
bing great  credit  to  Dr.  Whitman  and  Mr.  Spalding,  who 
firbt  introduced  among  them  this  change  from  a  savage  to  a 
civilized  state.  They  left  them  about  three  o'clock,  P.  M., 
and  camped  for  the  night  in  the  midst  of  the  Blue  moun- 
tains. 

The  next  day  they  made  a  long  and  cheerful  march,  and 
camped  on  a  considerable  stream  near  the  Grand  Round. 

The  following  day,  passing  a  large  tree,  at  the  foot  of 
which,  had  manifestly  been  built  many  fires,  Saxton,  laugh- 
ing, remarked,  "  there  is  where,  last  fall,  I  had  my  first  quar- 
rel, all  the  way  from  the  United  States  to  this  country,  being 
the  place  where  I  burnt  up  the  last  mess  of  beans,  kettle  and 
all,  in  consequence  of  falling  asleep,  worn  down  by  fatigue. 
Our  mistress  kicked  up  a  row,  and  such  an  one  as  none  of 
us  are  likely  soon  to  forget." 

They  next  entered  the  Grand  Round,  and  traversed  most 
of  its  length,  Dr.  W.  more  than  ever  impressed  with  its  love- 
liness and  fertility.  They  that  morning  bathed  in  the  hot 
spring.  A  few  miles  from  the  round,  they  came  in  full  view 
of  a  large  encampment,  which  they  supposed  tenanted  by 
Snake  Indians,  near  wheie,  the  full  before,  two  of  the  tribe 
were  killed  by  rockles..  whites,  thereby  rendering  it  deci- 
dc'lly  hostile  They  experienced  much  uneasiness,  and 
made  preparations  to  advance  cautiously  as  possible ;  but^ 


w 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


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11     ,i 


282 


T£N    TEARS    IN    ORSaOK. 


on  nearing  it,  found  a  party  of  Keyuscs  and  Nez  Perces. 
They  gave  a  most  unfavorable  account  of  a  band  of  Snakes, 
just  ahead,  so  much  so,  that  Dr.  White  deemed  it  advisa- 
ble to  hire  three  of  the  warriors  to  escort  them  through  the 
Snake  country.  On  the  night  of  the  30th  his  brave  Nez 
Perces  kept  watch,  but  nothing  occurred  to  alarm  them. 

The  next  day,  they  made  at  least  forty  miles,  and  con- 
sidering themselves  beyond  danger  from  the  Snakes,  lay  by 
for  the  Sabbath,  and  found  it  emphatically  a  day  of  rest. 

On  Monday,  about  noon,  to  their  almost  extravagant  joy, 
they  met  a  company  of  eight  hundred  emigrants,  headed  by 
Barlow,  Knighton  nnd  McDonald.  They  were  very  cheer- 
ful, and  represented  the  dangers  of  the  route  as  far  less  than 
they  had  anticipat3d  ;  indeed,  they  said  the  principal  annoy- 
ance arose  from  the  dust  of  so  many  wagons,  numbering 
eighty-seven.  It  was  to  the  doctor  as  exciting  a  meet- 
ing as  had  been  that  with  the  exploring  squadron,  at  Hono- 
lulu, each  party  bringing  news  from  the  country  they  had 
left. 

After  this  they  met  several  expeditions,  one  of  which,  near 
fort  Boise,  brought  the  doctor  several  valuable  letters  ;  one 
from  Mrs.  White,  from  whom  he  had  not  heard  in  fifteen 
months,  and  one  from  each  of  his  esteemed  friends,  Benja- 
min Joy  and  Gen.  Min'er,  of  Lansing. 

Near  the  falls  of  the  Snake  river,  they  encountered  the 
St.  Joseph's  company,  and  their  first  impressions  of  it  were 
any  thing  but  favorable.  They  were  camped  on  a  sandy 
plain,  and  the  first  person  who  presented  himself,  was  a  tall, 
meager,  one  eyed  man,running  along  the  bank  of  the  river  with 
a  fishpolc  in  his  hand,  corresponding  with  his  own  dimen- 
sions. The  next  was  not  a  one  eyed  individual,  but  possessed 
a  black  eye,  and  was  a  suspicious  looking  subject ;  and  then 


TKK   TBARS   IN   OREGON. 


283 


a  tall,  commanding  looking  man,  walking  liasiily  about,  appa- 
rently in  anxious  search  after  some  object.     By  this  time  the 
thoughts  and  roflectio/iS  of  our  party,  respecting  the  compa- 
ny, were  sufficiently  melancholy.     The  last  named  gentle- 
man, suddenly  observing  them,  abruptly  changed  his  course, 
and  advancing  to  the  doctor,  held  out  his  hand,  saying,  "  my 
name  is  Fisher,"  upon  which  he  extended  his,  and  "  mine  is 
White."     "Surely,   not  Dr.   White,    of   Oregon?"     "The 
same,  sir."     "  Why,  sir,  I  know  you  well  by  report,  I  feel 
myself  well  acquainted  with  you ;  ccme  to  the  camp,  sir ; 
come  to  the  camp  ;"  and  nothing  loth  he  did  go  to  the  camp, 
where  he  found  a  company  of  intelligent  New  England  peo- 
ple, who  had  formerly  emigrated  to  Iowa,  aud  were  now  on 
their  way  to  Oregon.     They  were  more  eager  for  news  than 
any  he  had  before  met,  and  also  for  reading  matter,  for  they 
had  devoured  every  thing  in  their  possession,  even  to  their 
old  almanacs.     He  was  literally  forced  to  give  them  an  Ore- 
gon lecture,  so  he  harangued  to  them,  some  sitting  upon 
wagon  tongues,  some  on  the  ground,  and  others  bringing 
out  their  old  fashioned  efistern  chairs. 

While  this  was  going  forward,  some  of  the  ladies  prepa- 
red for  the  party,  under  Mr.  Fisher's  tent,  a  delicious  repast 
of  choice  bread,  crackers,  tea,  dried  beef,  butter,  and  maple 
molasses.  While  partaking  of  these,  a  large  number  stood 
round  the  travellers,  asking  questions  as  eagerly  as  they  ate. 
On  enquiring  why  they  were  so  far  behind  the  general  par- 
ty, one  of  the  ladies  replied,  "  why,  I  guess  it  is  because 
we  lie  by  on  the  Sabbath."  A  smile  passed  round  the  cir- 
cle, and  an  elderly  maiden  remarked,  "  Oh,  sir,  that  is  not 
the  only  reason  ;  our  company  are  very  philosophical ;  they 
are  not  disposed  to  let  little  drawbacks  trouble  them ;  neither 


284 


TEK  YEAn8  IN    ORKOOK. 


li-  .»•! 


do  they  -wish  to  wear  themselves  out  by  extraordinary  exer- 
tions, such  as  rising  too  early  in  the  morning,  and  dashing 
away  over  the  plains,  like  eager  seekers  after  filthy  lucre." 
A  laugh  followed,  and  the  doctor's  enquiries  were  at  an 
end. 

After  dinner,  strolling  about,  he  passed  a  group  of  young 
ladies  busily  chattering,  and  one  of  them,  rather  blushingly, 
asked,  "  Sir,  do  you  carry  letters  to  the  United  States  ?" 
"  Yes,  certainly,  I  have  a  pack  animal  with  me  especially 
for  that  purpose."  There  was  a  titter  among  her  com- 
panions, and  one  spoke,  **  there,  Lucy,  you  see  the  gentle- 
man is  willing  to  caiTy  it.  I  told  you  so."  Another,  "  Yes, 
to  be  sure.  And  now  I  reckon  you  would  like  to  have  ns 
get  a  pen  and  paper  for  you,  wouldn't  you?"  With  a  half- 
provoked  air  she  bade  them  "  hush,"  and  left  them.  He 
watched  her  proceedings,  and  soon  saw  her  seated  upon  the 
houns  of  a  wagon,  her  paper  spread  upon  her  lap,  her  cheek 
pressed  upon  her  hand,  lost  to  outward  objects,  and  indi- 
Ung  her  sweetest  matter.  When  she  brought,  and  half 
bashfully,  presented  the  letter,  requesting  the  doctor  to 
send  it  to  its  address,  he  replied,  laughingly,  "  you  may  be 
certain,  J  will  do  so ;  if  all  the  rest  fail,  this  shall  go  safe- 
ly." She  retreated  amid  the  suppressed  giggle  of  her 
roguish  mates.  He  saw  the  letter  was  directed  to  a  gen- 
tleman. 

The  party  were  much  pleased  with  Mr.  Fisher,  and  one 
of  them  presented  him  a  fine  horse,  which  he  gratefully  ac- 
cepted, and  they  separated. 

After  traversing  the  sand  plains  to  within  half  a  mile  of 
fort  Hall,  Dr.  White  and  his  confipanions  indulged  in  a 
thorough  washing,   in  which   their  clothes  came  in  for  a 


TEN   YKARa   in    ORSOOHT. 


285 


.  f.  *'r 


share,  and  all  being  iu  a  fresher  condition,  presented  them- 
selves at  the  fort.  They  remained  with  Mr.  Grant  sev. 
eral  days,  the  reason  of  which  was,  that  the  horse  bear 
ing  the  mails,  and  other  valuables,  took  fright,  and  ran 
away,  and  about  three  days  passed  before  they  recovered 
him. 


■  •  H.: 


■'*■■■■ 


yn 


■>i-  { 


BC      i 


^^V^NI 


280 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OUKGOK. 


f     ii 


:s  ■iA«r-c 


ill 


J      '1 1 


i      " 


H 


;i! 


i'  • . 


1  ■ 


I 


P!      I 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Showers — Soda  Springe — Dr.  Burke — Pleasant  interview — Green  river 
— Great  change — New  route — Sterile  and  forbidding  country — Sam- 
mit  level — Uncomfortable  night — Contrast — Divide — "  Home,  sweet 
home" — A  trail— Sabbath  travelling — Weather — Dreary  pas5 — Ani- 
mals— Bear — Sweetwater  valley— Independence  rock — Solitary  walk 
— Halt — Ravine — Snow— Red  bluff— Camp  on  the  Platte — Buffalo 
— Needless  fears — Humbug — Three  grizzly  bears — Signs  of  Indiana 
— Nondescript — Indian  and  family — Signs  of  danger — Herd  of  hor- 
ses— Attempt  to  escape  observation — Failure — An  old  mnn — Kind 
reception — Handsome  offer — An  American — Feasting — Smoking — 
Reasonable  request — Encampment — Two  Frenchmen — Good  meal 
— Warm  spring — Fort  Laranny — Mr.  Tappan — Fligibilily  for  a  mil- 
itary post. 

The  first  night  after  leaving  fort  Hall  they  had  a  shower 
of  rain,  the  only  one  betvi^een  the  Dalles  of  tlie  Columbia 
and  the  United  States,  a  period  of  ninety  days.  Their  sec- 
ond encampraent  from  this  place  was  at  the  soda  spring. 
Every  thing  bore  much  the  same  aspect,  as  four  years  pre- 
viously, excepting  the  unpleasant  change  caused  by  emigrants 
having  cut  away  so  much  timber,  lessening  the  wild  beauty, 
and  grateful  shade  of  a  spot,  destined,  ere  long,  to  become 
a  rendezvous  for  the  world. 

On  the  27th,  they  met  Dr.  Burke,  who  was  engaged  in 
collecting  botanical  and  mineralogical  specimens  for  the 
English  government.  He  related  many  anecdotes  of  his 
travels  in  Africa,  and  the  interview  was  both  pleasing  and 
instructive.     They  had  the  pleasure  of  his  company  to  a  din- 


E     i 


TEH    TKARS   IN   OREGON. 


287 


ncr,  which  Brown  and  Chapman  exerted  their  skill  to  ren- 
der palatable,  presenting  him  with  broad,  butter,  and  pota- 
toes, which  he  had  not  tasted  for  months. 

They  reached  Green  river  the  9th  of  October.  Here  a 
great  change  had  taken  place  ;  the  numerous  expeditions 
having  so  destroyed  the  timber  as  to  leave  the  doctor  in 
doubt  whether  ft  really  was  Green  river.  It  was  also  quite 
different  from  what  it  had  been  when  he  first  visited  it.  But 
their  doubts  were  resolved  by  finding  an  old  piece  of  wagon- 
board,  with  a  name  written  upon  it,  in  pencil,  "we  ar- 
rived at  this  point,  Green  river, 1844." 

They  now  attempted  a  route,  to  them,  entirely  new,  be- 
tween Green  river  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  was  an  arid 
and  forbidding  region,  uttoly  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  of 
every  living  thing,  the  lizard  excepted.  They  pushed  on 
for  forty  miles,  without  a  drop  of  water,  or  discovering  a 
single  article  fit  for  food  ;  at  the  end  of  which  they  stopped 
and  took  a  slight  lunch,  feeling  more  uncomfortable  for  their 
jaded  horses,  than  pleasure  in  their  own  hasty  allowance. 
As  they  approached  the  summit  level  between  Green  and 
Sandy  rivers,  the  weather  became  very  chilly  ;  the  winds, 
blowing  from  the  snowy  tops  of  the  mountains,  were  search- 
ing and  severe.  As  evening  came  on,  the  party  became 
drowsy  from  cold  and  weariness,  and  were  hardly  able  to 
reach  a  suitable  place  for  rest,  which,  however,  they  did 
reach  between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  As  th<^y 
were  in  a  dangerous  part  of  the  country,  they  dared  not 
build  a  fire,  but  spread  their  blankets  upon  the  wet  ground, 
and  threw  themselves  upon  them,  reflecting  how  different 
was  their  prospect  for  spending  the  night,  from  those  of 
travellers  in  the  states,  contrasting  their  uncomfortable,  and 


.'I 


■  '■'■J'.' 
,:  ■  *•■! 


,<.'rv 


<y«ti 


288 


TEN   TEARS    IN    OREGOK. 


;    ri 


ll. 


[!  'f 


in 


even  perilous  situation,  with  good  fires,  warm  supper,  and 
Koft  beds. 

In  the  morning  tliejr  were  roused  by  the  scampering  of 
the  horses,  bellowing  of  buffalo,  and  capering  of  antelope. 
Chapman  slaughtered  a  fine  antelope,  which,  with  bread 
composed  of  flour,  salt,  and  water,  mixed,  and  baked  on  a 
tin  before  the  fire,  and  the  last  of  the  butter,  made  their 
breakfast. 

Thej  started  about  ten  o'clock,  and  reached  the  divide 
that  evening,  and  on  Saturday  crossed  it  on  foot,  arrived  at 
Sweetwater  valley  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  at  three  came 
to  a  halt,  each  one  happy  that  they  were  again  travel- 
ling down  hill,  and  on  the  side  of  the  old  republic.  One 
involuntarily  broke  out  singing,  "  home,  sweet  home,"  and 
Dr.  W.'s  thoughts  irresistably  flew  forward  to  the  time  '.rhen 
he  should  again  meet  his  wife,  and  dear  little  boys,  whom 
he  had  not  seen  for  three  and  a  half  years. 

At  sunset  they  struck  a  large  Indian  trail,  running  to  the 
south-east,  and  they  thought  the  party  might  have  passed 
while  they  were  at  dinner.  This  did  not  retard  their  speed, 
and  they  made  twenty  miles  before  they  again  sought  re- 
pose, which  they  at  last  did  with  feelings  of  great  disquiet. 
They  awoke  before  day-break,  and  went  in  pursuit  of  their 
horses,  which  had  strayed  far  away.  The  nature  of  their 
emotions  at  this,  may  be  imagined.  They  were  yet  a  thou- 
sand miles  from  the  states,  with  a  scarcity  of  provisions,  and 
a  hostile  country  to  pass  through.  However,  the  genius  of 
good  luck  favored  them,  and  they  found  the  animals  ;  after 
which  they  had  divine  worship,  and  then  started  forward,  for 
they  dared  not  tarry,  even  though  it  was  Sabbath.  That 
night  they  slept  twenty-five  miles  distant,  in  the  Sweetwater 
valley,  where  thousands  of  moving  buffaloes  disturbed  their 


t<  t    > 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


28) 


and 


rest,  coming  within  three  rods  of  them.  The  night  was 
clear,  though  severe  for  the  Yth  of  October.  The  next  day 
they  passed  Hell  Gate,  so  called  for  being  the  place  where 
eleven  whites  were  cut  off  at  once  by  the  Indians.  Through 
this  dismal  pass,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length,  cut  through 
a  mountain  of  rock,  they  travelled  in  jrreat  fear  lest  they 
should  be  way-laid.  In  the  morning  they  awoke  much  re- 
freshed, and  carcfull)'  searched,  but  found  no  trace  of  sava- 
ges, breakfasted,  and  went  on,  meeting  numerous  sage- 
fowls,  horses,  antelopes  and  buffaloes,  of  which  they  killed 
one.  That  night  they  arrived  at  Salarsetus  lake,  where  they 
were  visited  by  a  huge  grizzly  bear,  but  did  not  pursue  him, 
though  strongly  tempted  to  do  so.  They  reached  Sweetwater 
pass  about  half  past  nine,  and  soon  after.  Independence  rock. 
Here  the  doctor  crept  stealthily  along  a  mile  in  advance, 
fearing  a  repetition  of  the  scene  he  had  formerly  witnessed. 
He  was  startled  by  the  lightest  motion  of  a  leaf,  in  the  shim- 
mering light  of  the  setting  moon.  Every  thing  was  as  still 
as  death,  except  a  slight  stir,  now  and  then,  occasioned  by  a 
gentle  zephyr,  giving  an  apparent  quiet  life  and  motion  to 
every  shadowed  twig  and  weed.  The  scene  was  solemnity 
itself.  They  camped  between  twelve  and  one  o'clock,  and 
the  next  day  travelled  thirty  miles. 

On  the  8th,  after  an  early  breakfast,  they  mounted,  the 
wind  at  their  backs,  which,  clear  as  it  was,  gradually  in- 
creased, till,  at  eleven  o'clock,  it  was  like  a  blow  at  sea,  ma- 
king the  sand  so  troublesome  that  they  were  driven  into  har- 
bor at  twelve.  There  they  dined  on  buffalo  tongue,  tender- 
lines  and  tea,  and  at  two  o'clock,  as  the  wind  had  a  little 
abated,  again  started,  and  travelled  on  till  they  reached  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  ravine,  where  a  few  willows  partially  shiel- 
ded them  from  the  snow  and  driving  blasts,  through  the 
19 


u 


fii 


■(|V 


::y 


i't:. 


Hi 


I  :|      '  >P'  ■ 


1 


*1    • 


^00 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREfiO!r. 


night.  The  next  day  was  cold  and  stormy,  the  snow  falling 
an  inch  in  depth  on  the  tahle  while  thoy  wore  dining.  That 
afternoon  the  travellers  came  in  sight  of  the  Red  bluff  of  the 
Black  hills,  of  a  color  between  scarlet  and  chocolate,  and 
that  evening  camped  on  the  Platte. 

In  the  night.  Brown  awoke  his  companions,  to  listen  to  the 
hordes  of  buffaloes  crossing  the  stream  in  a  precipitate  and 
hurried  manner.  Chapman  quickly,  but  gravely,  admon- 
ished them  to  "  be  very  still,  as  there  were  Indians  just  be- 
low." Having  some  doubts  of  these  night  visions,  his  leader 
asked  his  reasons  for  such  a  statement,  but  in  vain  ;  he  would 
or  could  give  none.  In  the  morning  he  started  out  to  fetch 
up  the  horses,  and  soon  came  back,  saying,  in  a  hurried  and 
excited  manner : 

"  There,  I  told  you  there  were  Indians  down  there  !" 
"Well,  Chapman,  what  now  ?     Have  you  seen  any?" 
"  No ;  but  I  heard  the  men  gambling,  and  making  medi- 
cines, children  talking,  dogs  barking,  and  all  sorts  of  noi- 
ses." 

"  Chapman,  did  you  hear  the  dogs  bark  ?" 
"  I  tell  you  I  heard  all  sorts  of  noises,  and  if  you  don't 
believe  me,  go  yourself,  and  you  Avill  soon  be  satisfied." 
"  That  I  will  do,  certainly.     Brown,  come ;  go  along." 
They  went  as  far  as  he  did,  and  heard  nothing  but  the 
winds  sighing  through  the  trees,  in  the  valley,  the  flitting  of 
ravens,  and  the  pecking  of  birds  on  the  old,  dry  timber. 
Far  down  the  river,  they  saw  the  buffaloes  and  antelopes 
quietly  grazing,  and  all  nature,  in  these  lonely  recesses,  ap- 
pearing awful  from  her  very  repose  ;  the  storm  being  over, 
and   the   ground   covered  with   snow   to   three  inches  in 
depth. 

Dr.  White  decided  to  cross  the  river,  and  go  ahead,  Chap- 


i,  i. 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OKEGON. 


201 


>» 


Chap- 


man's dreams  notwithstanding,  and  liis  protestations  of  hear- 
ing marvelous  sounds.  But  Brown,  on  tJic  subject  of  Indi- 
ans, always  cowardly,  was  inclined  to  believe  that  the  vis- 
ions might  be  Providential  ^varnings,  and  the  doctor  directed 
him  to  go  to  the  point  of  an  adjoining  bluff,  and  satisfy  him- 
self that  lis  fears  were  groundless.  He  had  been  gone  but 
a  short  time,  when  he  came  cantering  back  at  full  speed,  de- 
claring that  he  had  "  seen  a  man  and  horse,  and  heard  chil- 
dren ;"  that  he  "  knew  inhere  were  human  beings  there;  was 
afraid  they  had  seen  him,  but  hoped  not."  Though  habitu- 
ally sufficiently  credulous,  the  doctor  doubted  much,  but 
turned  aside  through  a  depression  in  the  mountain,  went 
twelve  miles  to  make  six,  and  found,  as  he  had  suspected, 
that  it  was  all  a  humbug.  Impression  men,  and  timid  be- 
lievers in  dreams,  have  no  business  on  this  road  with  small 
parties.  .  <  , 

The  second  night  following  this,  the  doctor,  followed  by 
his  companions,  wound  his  way,  by  the  dim  light  of  a  cloud- 
ed moon,  down  the  Platte,  to  a  place  of  safety.  Late  in  the  '■ 
evening,  he  struck  through  some  timber,  both  standing  and 
fallen,  in  a  low,  lonely  vale,  where  he  came  suddenly  upon 
three  grizzly  bears,  busily  devouring  the  carcase  of  a  buffa- 
lo. They  retreated  two  jumps,  by  which  time  the  intruder, 
discovering  his  position,  came  to  a  halt  to  await  the  arrival  of 
his  army  in  the  rear.  They  no  sooner  recovered  from  their 
first  surprise,  than  with  horrid  growls  they  advanced  to- 
wards him,  and  he  made  a  precipitate  retreat,  when,  fortu- 
nately, the  party  came  up.  Brown  and  Chapman  dismounted 
and  advanced  within  thirty  paces  of  the  enemy.  One  of  the 
creatures,  probably  the  dam,  gave  a  dreadful  yell,  vindicative 
of  fear,  and  anger,  and  made  a  terrible  bound  towards  thena, 
but  such  was  the  noise  made  by  the  scampering]^of  the  hor- 


'  •  II 


x:> 


292 


TKN   YBAIia    IN    OREOOIV. 


MS,  thiiL  she  was  confused,  and  fled,  hotly  pursued  by  Chap- 
man, bawUng  as  loud  as  he  could, 

"  Brown,  Brown — here  ihey  arc !  Come  quick — we'll 
have  'em." 

But  bruin  and  her  cubs  escaped  into  a  thf^ikot,  whither 
Chapman  could  hardly  be  lestraincd  from  following  thorn. 
In  the  morning,  they  found  the  animals  had  passed  where 
they  slept,  and  the  wounded  bled  so  profusely,  that  they  all 
imagined  they  were  sure  of  them,  especially,  as  on  following 
the  trail  back  to  the  place  of  firing,  they  found  an  immense 
quantity  of  blood.  They  traced  the  track  three  miles,  (o 
a  dense  thicket,  where  they  left  them,  as  their  retreat 
was  unsafe  to  penstrate.  They  measured  a  foot  mark,  and 
found  it  twelve  inches  in  length  by  seven  in  breadth.  They 
travelled  twenty-six  miles,  and  camped  on  a  branch  of  the 
Platte,  in  the  Black  hills,  and  Brown  shot  a  young  deer,  on 
which  they  feasted  lustily. 

Sabbath  morning  tliey  lay  by  till  twelve  o'clock,  and  then 
moved  on  till  sunset,  amid  fresh  signs  of  Indians.  They 
now  stopped  an  hour  or  two  on  another  branch  of  the  Platte, 
and  then  rode  till  twelve  o'clock,  through  a  storm  of  wind, 
hail  and  snow.  They  passed  over  a  long  divide,  the  moun- 
tain high,  making,  that  day,  thirty  miles.  They  found  a 
thicket,  in  which  they  emcamped,  which  served  not  a  little 
to  break  off  the  piercing  winds.  The  doctor  lay  down  on 
his  uncomfortable  bed,  and  thought  of  home  endearments. 
He  rested  well,  and  felt  better  in  the  morning,  though  it 
was  cold  and  snowy.  At  a  brisk  fire  they  roasted  a  badger, 
if  the  nondescript  the  doctor  killed  the  day  before,  may  be 
80  called.  That  morning  the  party  met  a  Sioux,  and  his 
family,  who  were  very  friendly,  though,  when  he  learned 
the  smallness  of  their  number,  he  warned  them  of  great  dan- 


[  i-^wtfc         I;     f  ' 


TKM    YEAKS   IN    OUEQON. 


298 


ger  by  rapping  on  liia  head,  and  drawing  hh  knife  across  his 
tliroat,  and  significantly  pointing  far  ahead.  They  left  him, 
and  in  half  an  hour  saw  before  thorn  an  immense  herd  of 
horses,  which  they  knew  must  have  owners,  and  those  not 
whites,  and  they  then  understood  the  fearful  signs  made  by 
their  Sioux  friend.  They  attempted  to  escape  observation 
by  cutting  across  a  district  of  country,  and  afterwards  inter- 
secting the  main  road.  Passing  around  the  point  of  a  hill, 
they  reached  the  old  road,  and,  to  their  chagrin,  in  a  few 
motnents  came  in  full  view  qf  two  hundred  and  fifty  Sioux 
lodges,  not  more  than  five  hundred  yards  distant.  To  avoid 
them  was  now  impossible,  and  wit  v  >ut  a  moment's  hesitan- 
cy, the  doctor  wheeled  his  horse  in  that  direction,  and  or- 
dered the  party  to  follow  with  a  rapid  step.  What  tho  re- 
ception and  doom  awaiting  them,  he  knew  not.  They  soon 
saw  a  brave,  grave-lookipg  old  man,  riding  out  to  meet  them, 
and  a  multitude  of  children  swarming  to  gaze  upon  the  white 
strangers.  Dr.  White  alighted,  and  putting  on  the  best  na- 
tured  smile  possible,  shook  hands  with  him.  He  seemed 
pleased,  and  enquired  by  signs  "  where  they  came  from,  and 
whence  they  were  bound  ?"  Having  no  interpreter,  the  doc- 
tor did  as  well  as  he  could  by  signs,  and  showing  him  a  book 
sealed  with  much  wax,  and  also  a  number  of  extravagantly 
large  letters,  which  he  told  him  he  was  carrying  to  the  great 
father,  at  Washington.  By  this  time,  a  host  had  collected, 
and  the  chief  motioned  the  doctor  to  accompany  him  to  the 
village,  where  he  conducted  him  to  the  lodge  of  a  younger, 
tliough  more  influential  chief,  dressed  in  English  costume, 
and  professing  to  be  a  friend  to  the  whites.  In  a  few  mo- 
ments, a  Frenchman  appeared,  who  understood  their  lan- 
guage sufficiently  to  inform  the  guests  that  the  Indians 
wished  them  to  accept  the  soldier's  lodge,  or  lodge  of  hon- 


v^'H.-; 


294 


TUN  YEARS  IN    OREGOK. 


H 


\i     ■\- 


\'  -i 


or,  which  should  be  vacated  for  their  use,  and  spend  the 
night  with  tliem.  It  was  large  and  convenient,  and  tired  as 
they  were,  the  invitation  was  very  tempting,  but  the  doctor 
declined,  and  asked  an  interview  with  an  American,  said  to 
be  in  the  camp. 

In  the  meantime,  while  he  was  talking  with  his  host.  Sax- 
ton  come  in,  in  much  agitation,  and  requested  him  to  step  out, 
as  the  savages  had  already  plundered  one  of  the  pack  hor- 
ses, and  Chapman  was  "  in  a  dreadful  stew."  The  doctor 
coolly  beckoned  the  chief  to  accompany  him  to  the  spot, 
where  he  found  the  Indians  much  embarrassed  and  uncom- 
fortable. They  had  supposed  the  visitors  would  stay,  and 
had  therefore  taken  off  the  pack  and  deposited  it  in  the  lodge 
assigned  them.  By  this  time,  Mr.  Gillipin,  the  gentleman 
whom  Dr.  W.  had  begged  to  see,  and  who  proved  to  be  a 
member  of  the  American  fur  company,  arrived.  They  had 
met  four  years  previous,  at  fort  Laramy,  and  ho  was  again 
in  the  country  on  a  trading  excursion.  He  inforaaed  him  that 
a'large  party  of  the  Sioux  and  Shiars  were  out  on  purpose 
to  kill  every  white,  and  Snake,  they  could  find,  as  seven  of 
their  tribe  had  been  slain,  as  they  thought,  by  them.  It  was 
probably  this  band,  whose  trail  I  have  mentioned,  the  party 
saw  one  day  after  dinner.  He  said  that  if  they  had  es- 
pied them,  they  certainly  would  have  despatched  every  one. 
He  rendered  himself  very  agreeable  and  serviceable,  and 
telling  the  natives  wlio  Dr.  White  was,  they  were  invited 
from  lodge  to  lodge,  to  feast  with  them.  They  then  brought 
out  their  long,  wooden-stemmed,  stone-bowled  pipes,  which 
they  smoked  peacefully  and  cheerfully.  The  doctor  tried 
hard  to  get  off  his  awkward,  Dutch  pipe,  which  was  cer- 
tainly no  less  beautiful  than  theirs,  but  to  no  avail,  and  was 
not  a  little  embarrassed.     Chapman  and  Saxton  humorously 


TEN  TEARS  IN   OREGON. 


295 


remarked,  ihat  they  thought  the  difficulty  might  be  occa- 
sioned by  its  long  travels  over  the  hot  plains,  causing  it  to  be^ 
come  contracted,  thereby  leaving  an  occasional  crevice. 

In  a  delicate  manner  their  entertainers  intimated  their  wish 
for  a  present  from  our  government,  as  an  equivalent,  in  part, 
for  the  wood  consumed,  and  game  destroyed,  by  the  large 
immigrating  parties,  passing  through  their  country,  in  which, 
believing  the  wish  reasonable.  Dr.  White  encouraged  them. 

The  white  men  then  left  them,  and  camped  pleasantly  two 
miles  distant,  and  slept  without  alarm.  The  next  day,  they 
met  a  village,  moving,  dogs  as  well  as  horses,  harnessed, 
drawing  long  poles  and  goods,  seemingly  at  home  in  the  bu- 
siness. They  also  met  Smoke,  an  important  Sioux  chief. 
They  rested  for  the  night  in  the  camp  of  two  Frenchmen, 
in  the  service  of  the  American  fur  company,  one  of  them 
having  resided  in  the  country  seventeen  years,  and  was  a 
jolly,  roistering  fellow.  He  had  been  there  so  long,  that  he 
said  he  actually  dreaded  the  appearance  of  a  white  woman, 
or' any  thing  like  refinement.  Their  carts  were  heavily  laden 
with  dried  buffalo  tongue,  and  other  meats,  of  which  they 
presented  the  Americans,  with  real,  back-woods  generosity. 
Of  them,  they  made  a  rich  meal,  while  listening  to  the  fel- 
low's yarns  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  enormous  elk  he 
had  killed,  and  his  encounters  with  the  grizzly  bear.  His 
story-telling  propensity  was  probably  increased  by  the  quan- 
tity of  tea  he  drank,  of  which  he  declared  he  had  not  before 
tasted  in  several  years,  and  which  acted  upon  him  in  much 
the  same  manner  that  stimulous  would  on  another  per- 
son. 

Twelve  miles  from  this,  at  the  foot  of  the  Black  hills,  they 
reached  the  v/arra  spring,  where,  as  they  would  soon  arrive 
at  fort  Laramy,  they  performed  their  ablutions,  as  at  fort 


%>■' 


■•i  -r 


;■■*■ 


■'.-  i  v' 


>/'  >   i  ill 


'  +  '■ 


296 


TBN   TEAKS  IN    OREQOX. 


W  M 


Hall.  They  were  hospitably  received  at  Laramy  by  Pappin.; 
*.he  governor,  and  the  doctor  was  favorably  impressed  with 
the  diflFerent  manner  in  which  he  conducted  the  trading  es- 
tablishment, from  most  others  they  had  visted.  He  waa 
fully  convinced  that  this  would  be  the  best  point  at  which 
to  fix  a  military  post  for  the  protection  of  i migrants,  being 
the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  route  between  the  United 
States  and  Willamette.  Eight  miles  below  this,  there  was  a 
small  fort,  under  ths  direction  of  Mr.  Daniel  Finch,  where 
our  travellers  were  obliged  to  trade  their  wearied  horses  for 
fresh  ones. 


i: 


TKK   TEARS  IN    OREGON. 


29 1 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


'.  (  :'■••■  ■ 


Chapman's  return  for  the  minute  bo«»k — Hard  time — A  move — Return 
— White  men — The  Platte — Art  nature — Platte  crane — Polecat — 
Ash  creek — Thompson — A  present — Wolves — Ivill  a  buffalo — A 
robbery — Woodless  plalte,  valley,  etc. — Bread — History  of  a  lump  of 
sugar — Singular  circumstance — Sabbath  morning — Weather — Buf- 
falr — Birds — Antelope,  etc, — Length  of  the  buifnlo  district — Larg« 
herd — Express — Warning  ol  danger — A  sign  of  danger — Pawnees 
— Unpleasant  interruption — Pack-horse  frightened — Troublesome 
Indian — Departure — Firing — Another  interruption — Number  of  Indi- 
anti — Madness  of  attempting  to  contend — Brown  and  Saxton — Coal 
laken — A  blow — Hard  usage — A  protector — A  ride  on  horse-back — 
Saxton — Little  demons — A  council — Delicate  feast — Council  nore 
moderate — Another  confiscation — "  Bad  people  behind" — Not  to  be 
gulled — Saxton's  visitor — Package  of  monuscripig — Preparation  to 
Stan — Kind  old  squaw — Gratitude — Unpleasant  surprise — Advanta- 
geous trade  proposed — Kind  interference — Forced  trade — Final  coo- 
elusion — Dr.  Satterly. 

TiiEY  started  on  the  18th,  when  the  doctor,  having  left 
his  minute  book,  about  noon,  Chapraiin  returned  for  it  on 
foot,  and  at  one  the  next  morning  overtook  them,  in  the 
midst  of  a  wild  storm  of  hail  and  snow.  His  toes  wer« 
frost-bitten,  and  he  had  denned  up  three  times,  like  a  bear, 
when,  not  exactly  pleased  with  his  quarters,  he  at  length 
came  on.  Nor  had  the  party  fared  much  better,  having  re- 
treated six  miles  in  the  course  of  the  night,  by  reason  of 
falling  in  with  a  camp,  which  they  suspected  to  be  the  Paw- 
nees, to  a  deep  gully,  where  they  tied  their  horses  together, 
and  waited  the  rising  of  the  moon ;  after  which  they  retra- 


fv'.s 


vrt 


298 


TEN    TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


ced  their  steps  to  meet  Chapman.  Reaching  a  sui.able  place 
for  encampment,  they  raised  a  signal  to  inform  him  of  their 
whereabouts,  and  they  lay  down,  fireless,  amid  cold  and 
snow. 

The  next  was  the  morning  of  the  Sabbath,  and  still  storm- 
ing ;  but  they  managed  to  kindle  a  fire,  comforting  them- 
selves with  the  consideration,  that  the  poor  horses,  at  least, 
had  good  picking.  At  twelve  they  were  again  off,  and 
found  to  their  relief,  that  the  neighbors  they  had  so  much 
feared,  were  a  white  man  and  his  associates,  on  their  way 
with  goods,  to  the  interior,  to  trade  for  buffalo  robes. 

They  reached  the  Platte  before  twilight,  passing  through 
scenery  most  remarkable,  nature  having  turned  her  works 
into  a  semblance  of  art.  On  every  side  were  domes,  cas- 
tles, spires,  churches,  etc.,  etc.     BuflFalo  still  abounded. 

On  the  20th  they  arrived  again  at  the  Chimney,  at  twelve 
baited  on  the  river,  and  at  dusk  had  made  twenty -five  miles. 
The  following  day  they  travelled  only  eighteen  miles,  but 
the  next,  thirty ;  after  which  they  stopped  on  the  Platte,  and 
cooked  a  skunk,  Avhich  Chapman  had  caught,  and  a  polecat, 
which  another  had  killed,  and  which  Chapman  and  Saxton 
pronounced  very  nice  eating. 

After  several  days'  march,  without  incident,  excepting  a 
run  away  of  the  horses,  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
Ash  creek,  the  point  of  turning  off  for  the  south  Platte, 
where  they  spent  a  night  with  Wm.  P.  Thopmson,  a  Ken- 
tucky hunter,  in  the  employ  of  a  fur  company.  lie  feasted 
them  on  the  nicest  treat  of  buffalo  meat  which  they  had  yet 
found.  lie  was  stopping  here  by  order,  to  guard  goods,  and 
was  soon  to  leave  for  Laramy,  where  he  hunted  in  the  sav- 
age wilds  for  the  sum  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per 
annum,  although  an  educated,  high-minded  young  man,  of 


TIN   TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


299 


honorable  and  wealthy  parentage.  lie  presented  Dr.  White 
with  a  fine  ham  of  venison  and  a  set  of  deer's  horns,  with 
nine  branches,  accompanied  with  the  scalp  and  ears,  for  the 
patent  office  at  Washington. 

They  now  found  the  wolves  more  numerous  than  they  had 
ever  before  seen,  and  especially  troubleso.ne  at  night.  On 
the  26th  they  met,  and  counted,  twenty-one  in  a  single  drove, 
very  large — the  real  buffalo  wolves — which,  when  inclined, 
run  down  the  fastest  cows,  hamstring  them,  and  at  will, 
slaughter  whole  herds. 

At  dusk,  the  men  killed  a  large  buffiilo,  and  cut  from  him 
some  of  the  choicest  portions,  to  the  amount  of  eighty 
pounds,  intending  in  the  morning  to  get  the  tongue,  etc.  To 
their  amazement,  the  morning  brought  disappointment,  for 
nothing  but  the  disjointed  skeleton  remained,  notwithstand- 
ing the  carcase  could  not  have  weighed  less  than  two  thou- 
sand pounds,  some  of  the  party  rating  it  as  high  as  a  ton 
and  a  half. 

'  They  travelled  on  that  day  thirty  miles,  down  the  wood- 
less Platte,  or  Plate,  as  it  is  justly  named,  from  its  great 
width  and  shallow  waters.  It  is  seldom  more  than  three  feet 
in  depth,  and  at  this  time  unusually  low,  averaging  not  more 
than  an  inch,  and  the  bottom  a  perfect  bed  of  quicksand. 
The  valley  and  table  land  of  this  country,  is  well  grassed, 
and  lies  handsomely,  and  if  timbered  and  less  sandy,  would 
be  very  valuable. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  being  Sabbath,  they  had 
bread  for  breakfast,  the  first  they  had  eaten  for  twenty 
days.  D****  brought  forward  about  four  ounces  of  maple 
sugar.  By  his  mischievous,  significant  looks,  the  others 
were  led  to  enquire  where  he  obtained  it,  supposing  he  had 


m 


XK 


AC- 


'  »'■-.■ 


-    ^ 


m 


li 


300 


TEN   TEARS   IN    ORSeON. 


»,i> 


procured  it  from  the  emigrants,  and  he  seemed  as  well  pleas- 
ed to  inform  them  as  they  to  know. 

"  Well,"  said  he,  "  I  will  give  its  history.  It  was  made 
in  1831,  and  presented  to  wife  and  self,  at  our  marriage,  by 
my  mother-in-law.  It  has  twice  travelled  round  Cape  Horn, 
through  the  Pacific  to  Oregon  ;  as  often  over  the  Rocky 
Mountiiins,  and  spent  a  sufficient  time  in  the  Wallamette  val- 
ley to  gain  a  residence  there.  Though  somewhat  dwindled 
away  by  its  advanced  age,  it  is  very  sweet,  but  not  as  sweet 
as  the  recollection  of  the  old  lady's  kindnesses  and  many 
virtues." 

About  ten  o'clock.  Brown  came  in  with  his  rifle,  express- 
ing his  surprise  at  something  which  had  just  occurred,  and 
remarking  that  if  there  was  such  a  thing  as  a  special  Provi- 
dence manifested  towards  any  company,  it  must  be  this.  " 

"All  the  game  we  have  had,  has  Ijenshot  down  rii^htin 
the  road,  and  every  endeavor  to  the  contrary  has  provea 
abortive,  and  just  now  in  my  attempt  to  kill  a  wolf,  a  circum- 
stance happened  which  beats  the  d — 1.  I  loaded  my  rifle, 
and  passing  a  wolf,  levelled  it  at  him.  The  cap  burst, 
the  piece  went  off*,  but  the  bullet  passed  half  way  out  of  the 
barrel,  and  there  it  stays.  I  hauled  out  my  pistol  and  snap- 
ped it ;  the  cap  burst  on  the  tube,  and  that  did  not  go  off." 

Chapman  advised  him  to  lay  aside  his  gun,  and  let  Sab- 
bath hunting  alone  for  the  future.     But  Brown  replied  : 

"  Do  you  suppose  God  would  give  me  a  gun,  and  then  not 
allow  me  to  use  it?     Away  with  your  superstition." 

And  here  followed  some  of  his  soundest  arguments,  iu 
justification  of  Sabbath  breaking. 

Monday,  the  weather  was  very  fine,  and  buflialoes  aboun- 
ded, together  with  the  antelope,  and  birds  began  to  increase 
in  number  and  variety.     The  white  crane,  of  about  the  size, 


ti,     * 


TEN    TRARS    IN   OREGON. 


301 


ill  pleas- 

as  made 
iage,  by 
pe  Horn, 
e  Rocky 
letto  val- 
Iwindled 
as  sweet 
id  raany 

express- 
rod,  and 
il  Provi- 
this.  ' 
1  right  in 
IS  provea 
I  circum- 

my  rifle, 
ip  burst, 

ut  of  the 

nd  snap- 
ko  off." 

let  Sab- 

ied : 

then  not 

lents,  in 

aboun- 
increase 
the  size, 


and  with  the  habits  of  the  sandhill  crane,  greatly  interested 
the  doctor,  and  he  endeavored  to  obtain  a  specimen,  but  fail- 
ed. Tlie  females,  like  the  males,  have  the  wing  tipped  with 
black,  but  unlike  them,  both  above  and  below  the  body,  the 
ends  of  the  feathers  are  edged  with  a  beautiful  golden 
tinge. 

Eight  hundred  miles  of  the  road  had  been  passed,  and  the 
travellers    hardly   been    out  of    sight    of    buffaloes.     Tho 
buffalo  section  commenced  at  Green  river,  and  ended  where 
they  left  the  Platte,     Their  habits,  like  the  whales  and  sav- 
age tribes,   are  migratory,   remaining  for  some  time  in  one 
place,  and  then  suddenly  disappearing  entirely.     The  aver- 
age weight  of  the  male  is  two  thousand  pounds,  the  female 
something  less.     Their  run,  and  grunt,  resemble  that  of  the 
hog,  but  their  bellowing  is  peculiar,  resembling  nothing  living. 
They  are  rapidly  vanishing  from  the  country,  and  must  con- 
tinue to  do  so,  while  they  are  increasingly  sought  after  bj 
the  whites  and  Indians ;  stimulated  so  to  do  by  the  white 
man's  finery.     The  skins  only  of  the  females  arc  used  for 
robes,  and  the  cows,  too,  arc  generally  sl.iughtcred,  as  their 
meet  is  more  tender ;  a  fat  one  being  delicious  eating.     Out 
of  the  vast  numbers  they  saw,  not  more  than  one  in  five  were 
cows,  and  not  more  than  one  in  ten  of  these  had  calves. 
So  much  for  their  destruction  by  the  whites,  Indians,  and 
still  worse,  the  wolves,  which  destroy  so  many  of  their  young. 
They  travelled  twenty  miles  on  the  28th,  and  camped  in 
the  midst  of  timber,  on  the  Platte,  finding  hardly  water 
enough  to  have  supplied  a  common  grist-mill.     Only  twenty- 
five  miles  from  this  there  was  a  much  greater  quantity  run- 
ning on  the  surface. 

This  day  there  were  thousands  of  buffaloes  Avithin  range 
of  their  vision — a  greater  number  than  they  had  before  seen 


::I 


•  '1 


^ 


302 


TEN   YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


:f. 

^HH' 

t! 

Iri 

!■  ^ 

at  one  time,  and  were  remarkably  quiet,  lying  about  like  do- 
mestic animals,  and  frolicking  sportively. 

On  the  29th  they  met  aa  express  of  two  men  from  St. 
Louis  to  Fort  Laramy,  who  told  them  that  they  Avould  prob- 
ably meet  the  Pawnees  before  they  left  the  IMatte  ;  and 
they  would  surely  be  robbed,  if  not  murdered. 

On  the  31st,  at  nearly  noon,  the  doctor  was  riding  for- 
ward to  look  out,  when  he  saw  a  smoke  shooting  up  sudden- 
ly, in  the  distance,  but  so  dim  that  he  could  hardly  decide 
that  it  was  more  than  a  passing  vapor.  But  it  was  repeated 
at  different  points  of  the  horizon,  and  he  was  convinced  it 
was  a  sign  of  danger.  They  stopped,  arranged  their  packs, 
and  Avent  on  a  few  miles,  when  they  discovered,  two  or 
three  miles  ahead,  a  horse,  apparently  struggling  to  disen- 
gage himself  from  a  fastening,  which  he  finally  succeeded 
in  doing,  and  shot  off  in  an  opposite  direction.  They  con- 
sidered this  a  signal,  and  conclusive  that  they  were  in  the 
neiirhborhood  of  the  Pawnees,  who  were  also  aware  of  their 
approach.  They  examined  their  arms,  and  determined  to 
avoid  them  by  travelling  off  the  road  till  night.  They  had 
ridden  but  about  three  miles,  when  they  saw  three  savages 
advancing,  immediately  in  front.  They  went  on  without 
appearing  to  notice  them,  when  others,  to  the  number  of  fif- 
teen, stole  up  behind  them.  The  doctor  turned,  and  made 
signs  to  them  to  go  back ;  that  he  was  in  haste,  and  could 
not  stop  ;  but  they  continued  to  come  on.  Seeing  this  he 
stopped,  and  told  Saxton  to  open  a  pack,  and  give  them 
some  tobacco,  the  last  they  had.  He  had  hardly  done 
so,  when  one  of  the  horses  took  fright,  and  ran  with  great 
violence.  He  and  Chapman  pursued  it,  and  with  great  dif- 
ficulty finally  caught  it,  and  were  once  more  ready  to  move 
on.     But  one  of  the  savages,  who  had  been  very  trouble- 


*"l 


TEN  YEARS   IX    OREGON. 


303 


some  and  saucy,  stepped  up  to  Chapman  and  demanded 
some  powder,  which  being  refused,  he  pointed  his  gun  at 
his  head.  Fearing  the  consequences,  the  doctor  ordered 
C.  to  comply  with  the  demand,  and  the  Indian  left  them. 
"Wliile,  however,  he  had  been  talking,  six  or  seven  came 
round  the  doctor  and  grasped  his  horse's  head.  He  beck- 
oned IJrown  to  him,  and  while  he  pointed  hio  six  barrel  re- 
volver at  them,  told  him  to  do  the  same,  at  the  same  time 
motioning  them  to  be  off.  As  their  visitors 'departed,  they 
fired  at  them,  seeming  to  aim  particularly  at  Brown.  When 
they  were  nearly  out  of  sight,  the  men  filled  their  pow- 
der horns,  and  pouches,  but  had  hardly  started  forward 
again,  when,  to  their  chagrin,  they  saw  a  couple  of  sav- 
ages advancing  towards  them  from  the  direction  of  the 
village,  another  from  the  hills,  and  another  and  then  another 
from  different  points,  till  they  were  entirely  surrounded,  and 
still  others  arriving  on  their  fleet  horses,  -well  armed  with 
war  clubs,  tomahawks,  bows  and  arrows,  and  whooping 
fearfully.  Dr.  W.  cautioned  the  men  to  refrain  from  firing, 
as  it  would  be  madness  to  contend  with  so  many  times  their 
own  number.  There  was  a  great  uproar  ^md  confusion, 
while  they  robbed  each  of  their  captives  of  some  article,  such 
as  a  blanket,  etc.  They  obliged  Saxton,  with  his  pack  horse, 
laden  with  many  valuable  papers,  to  go  ahead,  and  Brown 
to  follow,  with  a  warrior  at  his  bridle.  Poor  Dr.  White 
brought  up  the  rear.  Refusing  to  allow  the  pillage  of  his 
mails,  one  rushed  furiously  at  him,  and  seizing  a  skirt  of  his 
coat,  tore  it  rudely  from  his  shoulder  ;  another  came  up  and 
stripped  the  remnant  from  his  back,  whib  p  third  uncere- 
moniously took  possession  of  his  vest.  WhJle  engaged  in 
this  melee,  a  warrior  came  suddenly  upon  him,  and  gave 
him  a  stunning  rap  on  the  temple,  while  two  of  his  fellows 


■^1 


804 


TKN  YEARS    IN    ORK(  ON. 


k 


■I 


I 


if 


.ill ' 


•I -SI 


encli  struck  a  blow  on  the  top  and  back  of  his  head.  Each 
of  the  young  racn  then  struggU^d  for  a  hke  privikige,  and 
tlie  senses  of  the  victim  were  fast  leaving  him,  wlien  lie  saw 
n  huge  brave  rushing  through  the  crowd  with  uplifted  battle 
axe,  which  he  supposed  would  soon  be  buried  in  his  biain. 
But  instead  of  this,  while  he  was  reeling  to  the  earth,  he 
sprang  forward  and  threw  his  arms  around  him,  at  the  same 
time  cmbruciug  him  with  his  knees,  and  shouting  loudij 
for  help.  The  next  instant  two  chiefs  came  to  the  rescue, 
hauling,  and  thrusting  aside  the  young  men,  and  stood  over 
the  prostrate  man,  assisting  to  protect  him  from  further  out- 
rage. With  this  support,  the  doctor's  first  protector  picked 
him  up,  as  though  he  had  been  an  infant,  and  pressing 
through  the  mob,  placed  liis  burthen  upon  a  horse,  and  him- 
self behind  him,  and  in  this  way  entered  the  village.  At 
this  moment  lie  woke  to  consciousness,  and  looking  about 
liim,  saw  none  of  his  party,  and  supposed  they  were  all  slain, 
when,  five  minutes  afterwards,  he  discovered  Saxton,  be- 
ing conducted  in  like  manner  with  himself.  As  they  arri- 
ved to  within  a  few  yards  of  the  huts,  they  were  met  by 
numerous  cliildren,  brandishing  their  little  weapons,  and 
pointing  their  mimic  arrows  at  the  prisoners,  and  dancing 
about  with  the  fury  of  young  fiends.  They  were  placed  in 
Beperate  lodges,  and  allowed  no  intercourse,  while  a  long 
and  stormy  council  was  held.  They  took  a  recess  about  ten 
o'clock,  and  the  white  men  were  then  permitted  to  see  one 
another,  while  a  feast  was  being  prepared  for  them.  It  was 
composed  of  very  good  materials,  in  the  form  of  a  stew, 
which  their  cooks  probably  thought  would  please  them,  as 
they  were  taken  from  their  own  provision  bags,  tea,  coffee, 
dried  meat,  and  pounded  corn,  and  although  well  sweetened 
with  sugar,  they  could  taste  the  peculiar  flavor  of  each.    As 


.1    M  ■ 


TEN    YEARS    IN   OnEGON. 


305 


a  mcdicjil  man,  Dr.  W.  nii^Hit  approve  of  compounds,  but 
he  tliought  he  should  liavc  preferred  tlic  ingredients  of 
tliis  seperate,  especially  the  tea  and  cofTee.  The  feast 
being  ended,  the  captors  collected  their  eflects,  distribu- 
ting the  most  valuable  among  themselves,  and  again  went 
into  council. 

This  time  their  gestures  were  not  so  furious,  and  their  voices 
less  boisterous,  than  before.  There  was  a  sensible  modifi- 
cation. At  twelve  the  body  again  arose,  the  prisoners  were 
revisited,  and  their  possessions  again  lessened ;  after  which 
they  assured  them  there  was  a  party  coming  up,  of  very  bad 
people,  and  that  they  would  certainly  scalp  them  ;  advising 
them  to  depart  immediately,  although  it  was  now  mid- 
night. 

To  this,  notwithstanding  they  were  subsisting  on  their 
hospitality,  the  doctor  put  a  decided  veto,  believing  that 
their  wish  was  to  get  them  off  to  the  plains,  and  then  set 
the  young  men  loose  upon  them.  They  urged,  and  he  be- 
came more  firm,  till,  seeing  his  inflexibiUty,  they  were  not  a 
little  embarrassed. 

About  this  time,  Saxton  was  visited  by  an  old  chief,  bear- 
ing a  large  package  of  MSS.,  evidently  taken  from  a  white 
man,  but  would  not  suffer  him  to  read  any  thing  except  the 
wrapper,  which  was  a  kind  of  paper  used  in  the  war  depart- 
ment, and  directed  to  Ton-ga-wan,  chief  of  the  Otto  nation. 
The  Indian  opened  the  bundle  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lodge,  and  took  out  an  United  States  passport,  as  it  appear- 
ed by  the  light  of  the  fire,  at  that  distance ;  a  large  paper 
having  ten  or  twelve  seals  upon  it,  and  each  with  a  name 
attached  ;  a  paper  resembling  a  deed,  and  a  French  pass- 
port.    He  then  folded  them  all  together,  after  pointing  to- 

the  coat  of  arms  on  each,  and  putting  them  into  the  envel- 
20 


..-^'•• 


.    il 


;  m 


!    ; 


It 

1^  1    . 

f   1 

^     1 

tM 


300 


TEN   TEARS  IN    OREGON. 


opc,  laid  them  under  his  thigh,  and  giving  a  contemptuous 
laugh,  left  the  lodge. 

The  chiefs  went  into  a  third  council,  which  was  remarka- 
bly still,  as  they  were  probably  becoming  sleepy,  allowing 
our  little  party  to  meet  once  more,  and  hitcrchange  their 
feelings  relative  to  their  prospect  of  reaching  the  United 
States,  which  they  now  considered  rather  dubious,  as  they 
were  robbed  of  provisions,  clothing,  and,  as  far  as  they  knew, 
every  thing  else.  From  this  time,  for  two  hours,  all  was 
perfect  silence;  but  whether  from  the  quantity  of  tea  ho  had 
eaten,  or  the  blows  on  his  head,  the  doctor  was  very  wake- 
ful, till  the  crier  passed  round  the  camp,  arousing  its  inmates. 
They  obeyed  the  call  with  great  alacrity,  and  in  a  few  mo- 
ments every  lodge  was  levelled,  and  preparations  were  made 
for  a  start. 

The  captives  looked  on  anxiously,  not  knowing  what  dis- 
position would  be  made  of  them.  While  this  was  going  for- 
ward, an  old  woman  stepped  up  and  offered  the  doctor  a 
bark  sack,  containing  about  a  peck  of  corn.  He  received 
it  very  gratefully,  resolving,  if  ever  he  reached  home,  he 
would  give  Jier  a  newspaper  puff,  however  he  might  serve 
the  rest  of  her  nation.  But  while  he  was  reflecting  upon 
the  "  generous,  pitying  nature  of  woman,"  to  be  found,  in  no 
matter  what  part  of  the  earth,  his  cogitations  were  unpleas- 
antly interrupted  by  her  laying  hold  of  his  only  remain- 
ing blanket,  and  claiming  it  in  exchange  for  the  corn.  He 
was  about  putting  an  unfavorable  construction  upon  this 
act,  when  a  man  came  forward  and  offered  to  exchange  hor- 
ses vath  him — for  his  was  standing  near — at  which  his  kind 
preserver  of  the  day  previous  interfered,  making  signs  that  the 
white  man's  horse  was  worth  two  of  his,  driving  him  away, 
with  demonstrations  that  he  was  a  very  bad  fellow.     Not 


t' 


1. 


TIN  YEAR8  IN  OREOOK. 


sot 


,  V 


fm 


wisliing  to  part  with  liis  liorse,  the  doctor  thought  of  him, 
"  surely  you  are  a  noble  spirit ;"  but  before  the  first  Indian 
was  fully  out  of  sight,  the  "  noble  spirit"  brought  out  a  horse 
not  worth  half  as  much  as  the  other,  and,  reminding  him  o 
former  services,  forced  him  to  trade.  His  romantic  musings 
were  effectually  dissipated,  and  ho  concluded  that  the  whole 
nation  were  a  set  of  rascally,  reckless  scamps.  Tliis  is  the 
tribe  among  whom  the  accomplished  Dr.  Saturly,  from  El- 
mira.  New  York,  a  mission  physician,  was  killed  some  eight 
years  since. 


i, 

it 


away, 
Not 


! 

■  u 


*    v'l 


809 


TZN  TEAR3   15    OREGDI^. 


|i|r 


141 


CHAPTER  XVXII. 


It    " 
Li 


i  U 


M 


Departure — Prairie  on  fire — Strong  wind — Raw  corn — Thirst — Dreams 
—Pool — Indians — Ruse — Living  on  raw  corn — Big  B'lie — C^-ove — 
Wild  turkey — Lucky  shot — Postponement  of  a  feast — Sabbath — Bad 
night — Indian  and  family  flour — Nice  bread — Frozen  squashes — 
Residence  of  Mr.  Fish — Beautiful  country — Westport — Mr.  Brown — 
Independence — Divine  worship — YirAt  to  the  mission. 

With  a  few  refuse  Indian  ponies,  and  the  dearly  bought 
bag  of  corn,  Chapman,  "without  a  hat,  and  the  rest  deficient 
in  articles  equally  necessary,  accompanied  by  three  Indians, 
Gur  "  forlorn  hope"  started  for  the  hills,  in  the  direction  the 
chiefs  had  advised  them  to  go  the  night  before. 

The  agent  felt  as  though  he  had  been  well  picked,  and 
like  any  thing  else  than  a  United  States  government  ofiicer. 
Indeed,  he  was  ostensibly  so  no  longer,  for  the  Pawnees  had 
robbed  him  of  his  commission.  Their  guides  escorted  them 
a  few  miles  and  left  them ;  and  the  party  had  not  proceeded 
far,  when  they  discovered  that  the  prairie  was  on  fire  di- 
rectly behind  them.  This  had  probably  been  done  by  the 
young  men,  infuriated  at  not  receiving  a  share  of  the  booty. 

It  was  the  first  of  November,  the  wind  strong,  and  from 
the  north-west,  while  they  were  travelling  to  the  south-east, 
driving  the  fire  immediately  upon  them ;  and  the  long  dry 
grass  affording  excellent  combustible  matter.  They  jour- 
neyed on  til]  two  o'clock,  and  then  turned  their  horses  loose 
upon  the  prai'le,  while  they  ate  a  few  cars  of  dry  corn, 


TBN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


309 


■.-■'1 


from 
■cast, 
dry 
jour- 
loose 
corn, 


whicli,  as  tbcy  were  very  hungry,  relished  much  better  thua 
they  had  expected. 

But  the  horses  were  so  tliirsty  that  they  would  not  graxc, 
so  they  remounted,  the  fire  having  gained  rapidly  upoa 
them  during  the  few  moments  they  had  tarried.  They 
pushed  on  until  between  one  and  two  o'clock  at  night,  suf- 
fering from  want  of  water,  of  which  they  had  not  found  a 
drop,  when,  the  heavy  dews  having  somewhat  checked  the 
fire,  they  determined  to  rest. 

They  had  hardly  laid  down  on  the  old  buffalo  skins,  gra- 
ciously given  them  by  the  Indians,  when,  through  excessive 
weariness,  they  dropped  asleep.  They  had  dozed  but  a 
short  time,  wh«n  Chapnnn  screamed  out  "fire!  fire!  the 
fire  is  upon  us !"  The  others  started  up,  but  laid  down 
again,  for  the  exclamation  was  caused  by  the  fcverisli 
dreams  of  the  sleeper.  But  their  sleep  was  incessantly  dis- 
turbed by  visions  of  fire,  Indians,  and  water. 

At  the  end  of  an  hour  they  'yere  somewhat  refreshed, 
and,  guided  by  the  north  star,  endeavored  to  keep  to  the 
eastward,  and  morning  ^'fjht  soon  came  to  their  assistance. 
The  fire  now  gained  upon  them,  and  they  toiled  on  in  severe 
suffering,  until  eleven  o'clock,  when,  to  their  unspeakable 
joy,  they  found  a  pool  of  water.  They  drank  as  much  as 
they  dared  for  three  hours,  the  wind  veering  so  as  measura- 
bly to  relieve  them ;  and  as  to  the  poor  animals,  they  had 
much  difficulty  to  prevent  them  from  injuring  themselves 
by  excessive  drinking. 

At  last  they  reluctantly  moved  forward,  changing  to  a 
north-east  direction,  hoping  soon  to  reach  their  road,  but 
had  gone  only  a  few  miles  when  they  caught  sight  of  Indi- 
ans, manifestly  in  pursuit  of  them.  This,  with  their  late 
adventures,  was   heart-sickening   and  discouraging.     They 


r 

1 

1  pm 

I 

4 

M 


J       ' 


r  I^JI 


•  p 


It  ') 


htt 


810 


TEN  TEARS  IK   ORBOOlT. 


knew  that  they  came  to  plunder  them  of  their  little  remain- 
i  ng  property,  and  their  scalps.  Poor  Brown  was  intensely 
agitated,  and  spoke  tenderly  of  his  wife  and  children.  The 
doctor  cheeringly  told  him  that  they  should  have  time  to 
despond  when  they  were  nearer  their  foes,  as  they  were 
nearly  two  miles  distant,  and  that  now  was  the  time  for  ac- 
tion. They  pushed  directly  forward  as  though  they  had  dis- 
covered nothing,  till  they  descended  into  a  ravine,  and  wer« 
hidden  from  the  sharp  eyes  of  their  pursuers,  when  they 
turned  quickly  round  the  hill,  and  thus  avoided  them.  Three 
hours  from  this  they  suddenly,  to  their  infinite  relief,  came 
out  upon  the  great  Oregon  wagon  trail.  They  were  all  suf- 
ficiently grateful,  but  poor  Saxton,  like  Columbus,  fell  upon 
his  face,  and  kissed  the  ground,  and  blessed  the  God  of 
Heaven.  They  travelled  wearily,  but  gladly  on,  till  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  the  doctor,  from  extreme  pain 
in  his  wounded  head,  fever,  and  exhaustion  from  want  of 
food  and  water,  was  about  to  say  to  his  companions,  "go 
on,  and  if  you  can  reach  the  States,  well.  I  can  go  no  fur- 
ther / — but  the  reflection  came  that  this  would  have  a  dis- 
couraging influence  upon  them,  and  that  it  was  his  duty,  to 
persevere  as  long  as  he  could  stand.  A  short  time  after  this 
they  happily  came  in  sight  of  a  grove,  a  suitable  place  for 
encampment.  They  tarried  here  a  couple  of  hours,  taking 
more  raw  corn,  with  puro  creek  water,  and  were  greatly  re- 
freshed. For  eight  long  days  they  plodded  on,  '^ "bsisting 
upon  corn,  raw,  boiled,  and  roasted.  These  days  for  the 
doctor  were  full  of  pain,  debility,  and  anxiety.  His  injured 
head  was  in  such  a  condition  that  he  was  some  of  the  time 
i  n  fearful  danger  of  a  brain  fever.  They  could  not  make 
rapid  progress,  as  the  Pawnees,  on  the  principle  that  "  ex- 
Qhange  is  no  robbery,"  among  the  rest  of  t^ieir  favors  had 


TKN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


311 


given  them  a  colt  eighteen  months  old,  a  one  eyed  two 
years'  old  poney,  and  a  poor,  crippled  old  creature,  unut  for 
any  service,  in  the  stead  of  their  valuable  horses. 

However,  they  pressed  patiently  on,  till  the  ninth  day 
at  evening,  they  reached  the  Big  Blue,  where,  as  they 
entered  a  grove,  they  heard  the  wild  turkeys  "quit!  quit!'* 
in  the  trees  above  their  heads.  Having  so  long  fed  upon 
raw  corn,  it  now  soured  on  their  stomachs,  and  they  were 
in  such  a  state,  as  to  be  actually  an  offence  to  themselves, 
and  were  never  more  impressed  with  the  idea  that  such 
food  was  designed  for  quadrupeds  of  the  baser  sort,  rather 
than  human  beings. 

Turkeys,  that  night,  bore  a  prominent  part  in  their  dreams. 
Brown  and  Chapman  were  up  betimes,  to  get  a  shot  at 
them,  Avith  their  last  charges  in  their  guns,  which  had  now 
been  loaded  over  nine  days.  They  stealthily  crept  along 
to  the  best  possible  position,  and  endeavored  to  fire  at  the 
same  breath, afterwards  declaring  that  they  took  aim,as  though 
their  lives  depended — and  perhaps  they  did — on  the  result. 
Brown's  shot  took  effect,  and  down  tumbled  a  turkey,  and 
here  turned  in  the  proudest  possible  mood,  while  Chapman 
was  in  a  correspondingly  opposite.  Thinking  that  the  re- 
port of  the  gims  might  endanger  their  safety,  they  deferred 
their  repast  till  camping.  Evening  came,  the  turkey  was 
picked,  and  cooked  with  parched  corn,  and,  although  guilt- 
less of  salt,  was  excellent.  This  meal  changed  the  action  of 
their  stomachs,  and  materially  improved  their  condition. 
The  next  day.  Sabbath,  they  worked  hard,  and  made  twen- 
ty-two miles. 

At  night  the  doctor  sat  down,  much  fatigued,  and,  lean- 
ing against  an  old  tree,  gladly  ate  his  handful  of  corn,  drank 
some  cold  water,  and  soon  forgot  all  his  troubles  in  sleep. 


:m 


&V 


i^^: 


'  V-  i 


■■*■ 


Hfi^i^ 

i 

■"♦'.'v 

1 

312 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGOW. 


But  he  awoke  at  intervals,  very  cold,  and  on  the  whole,  it 
was  a  tedious  night,  with  little  sleep.  The  next  day  waj; 
line,  and  the  country  beautiful,  though  the  grass  was  coarse 
and  dead,  and  the  horses  fared  badly.  The  next  day  they 
mired,  and  were  obliged  to  leave  their  best  horse.  The  fol- 
lowing was  marked  by  no  event,  save  meeting  an  Indian  and 
his  family,  of  whom  they  obtained  a  turkey  and  a  little  flour. 
They  pressed  down  the  river,  and  arrived  at  a  Frenchman's, 
where,  with  considerable  difficulty,  they  bought  another 
small  quantity  of  flour.  Eight  hours  after  they  camped, 
and,  mixing  some  flour  with  water,  baked  it  on  withes, 
twisted,  and  woven  in  the  form  of  a  snow  shoe.  They  found 
several  frozen  squashes,  probably  discarded  by  the  Indians, 
which  they  boiled,  and  thickened  with  flour,  making  the  first 
full  meal  they  had  eaten  in  twelve  days. 

Two  days  afterwards  they  entered  the  house  of  Mr. 
Charles  Fish,  who  was  in  the  service  of  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Church,  as  blacksmith  among  the  Shawnee  Indians. 
His  lady  kindly  prepared  them  a  noble  repast  of  pork, 
drid  venison,  potatoes,  and  bread.  They  departed  the  next 
morning,  having  dismissed  forever  the  Pawnee  sack  of  corn, 
which  had  become  disgusting  to  their  eyes  as  well  as  palates. 
That  evening  having  passed  through  a  beautiful,  woody 
district  of  country,  they  arrived  at  the  little  hamlet  of  West- 
port,  on  the  western  suburb  of  Missouri. 

Their  reception  from  Mr.  Boon,  nephew  of  the  distinguished 
hunter,  Dcmiel  Boon,  was  kind  and  handsome.  Tliey  here 
dofted  their  Pawnee  fixins  for  robes  of  another  texture,  and 
spent  the  night  at  Mr.  Geer's  hotel,  where  they  were  enter- 
tained very  pleasantly.  The  next  morning  they  set  out  for 
Independence,  a  distance  of  only  twelve  miles,  w^here  Dr. 
W,  had  the  happiness  of  meeting  several  old  friends,  and 


TEN  YEARS    IX    OREGON. 


313 


also  of  attending  divine  worship,  and  seldom  had  the  service 
of  the  sanctuary  been  more  grateful  to  him.  Having  been 
favorably  impressed  with  the  external  appearance  of  the 
mission  they  had  passed,  three  miles  west  of  Westport, 
the  doctor  determined  to  return  and  visit  it.  He  found  it 
under  the  direction  of  Mr  Berryman,  with  a  school  of  not 
less  than  one  hundred  members.  Mills,  and  every  depart- 
ment of  mechanism  was  carried  on  with  the  assistance  of  the 
pupils,  and  never  did  he  visit  a  mission  more  flourishing,  or 
in  better  condition.  The  plantation  contained  six  hundred 
acres,  well  fenced,  and  in  a  fine  state  of  cultivation.  He 
here  learned  the  death  of  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  and  obtained  other 
news  of  interest. 


'*^i  a 


•.Mi 


314 


TEN   YEARS   IN    ORKOON. 


'   ;!:  -i  ;U_i' 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Outline  of  journey  to  Washington — Gracious  reception— .Thoughts  of 
home — Meeting  with  friends  in  New  York  city — Reach  Ithaca — 
Arrival  home — Letter  to  the  editor  of  a  western  paper — Decrease  of 
the  Indian  population  in  Oregon — Timbers  of  Oregon — Fossils — 
Animals — Birds — Soil — Legislators  of  Oregon — Anecdote — Wrong 
of  the  government  in  not  extending  jurisdiction  over  Oregon — Treat- 
ment of  public  officers — Treatment  of  Dr.  White. 

Dr.  W.  left  Independence  for  St.  Louis  in  company  with 
Mr.  Beach,  an  Indian  agent  to  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  ;  a  gen- 
tleman from  Charleston,  a  third  in  the  employ  of  the  north- 
western fur  company,  just  from  his  post  in  the  interior! 
a  Baptist  clergyman,  originally  from  the  Genesee  valley, 
who  had  travelled  extensively  both  in  this  country  and 
Europe,  and  a  Catholic  priest,  professor  in  the  university 
at  St.  Louis.  The  last  two  carried  on  several  eccle- 
siastical discussions,  which  were  very  intesesting,  from  the 
abihty  with  which  they  were  managed,  and  the  excellent 
spirit  which  was  manifested,  creditable  to  both  their  heads 
and  hearts.  The  gentleman  from  South  Carolina,  expatiated 
largely  on  the  virtues  of  Mr.  Calhoun,  with  true  southern 
enthusiasm.  The  gentleman  from  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
dwelt  upon  the  novelties  and  advantages  of  the  fur  trade 
in  by-gone  days,  contrasting  them  with  its  present  condition, 
at  the  same  time  speaking  warmly  of  the  good  resulting 
from  the  exclusion  of  alcoholic  drinks  from  the  territory. 
On  the  fourth  day,  at  evening,  they  arrived  at  St.  Louis,  and 


f     <■ 


TKN   TEARS    IN  OREGON. 


315 


Thoughts  of 
ich  Ithaca — 
-Decrease  of 
n — Fossils — 
ote — Wrong 
gon — Treat- 

pany  with 
es ;  a  gen- 
the  north- 
e  interior  > 
sec  valley, 
•untry  and 
3  university 
eral  eccle- 
[,  from  the 
3  excellent 
heir  heads 
expatiated 
le  southern 
Mountains, 
3  fur  trade 
i  condition, 

1  resulting 

2  territory. 
Louis,  and 


the  doctor  was  not  a  little  surprised  at  its  wonderful  growth, 
during  the  last  four  years.  While  here,  his  old  friend,  Dr. 
Phillips,  from  Ithaca,  called  and  offered  him  a  seat  in  his 
carriage,  and  they  together  visted  all  the  public  places  of 
the  city.  There  he  took  a  steamboat  for  Cincinnati,  having 
on  board  Mr.  George  Smixer,  bearing  the  body  of  his  wife 
to  their  former  home,  in  Kentucky,  for  burial.     He  also  made 

the  acquaintance  of   Mr. ,  who,  with  his  lady,  was  on 

his  way  to  Washington,  to  take  his  departure  for  his  consul- 
ship, at  Trieste.  At  Cincinnati  he  spent  a  short  season  with 
his  brother,  and  then  started  up  the  river  for  Washington. 
They  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  when  the  river 
was  completely  blocked  up  with  ice,  and  the  passengers  were 
obliged  to  land,  and  take  land  conveyances.     At  the  village 

of ,  below  Pittsburgh,  the  doctor  was  glad  to  exchange 

the  lumber-wagon  for  a  stage-coach,  to  convey  them  over  the 
mountains.  The  journey  was  attended  with  some  hardship, 
and  considerable  danger  of  upsetting,  as  several  had  already 
done,  at  the  expense  of  broken  limbs,  etc.  The  journey  by 
railroad,  via.  Baltimore,  was  speedy  and  pleasant,  bringing 
him  to  Washington,  as  he  had  ardently  hoped,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  session. 

As  this  was  the  time  of  the  great  54°  40'  dispute,  and 
the  agent  so  recently  from  the  territory,  bearing  despatches 
from  its  legislature,  his  reception  was  the  more  gracious.  As 
was  his  duty,  he  first  paid  his  respects  to  the  commmissioner 
of  Indian  affairs,  the  Hon.  Wm.  Medill,  to  whom  he  had  pre- 
viously sent  in  his  report.  He  received  him  with  marked 
kindness,  and  after  a  short  interview,  proposed  accompanying 
him  to  Mr.  Marcy's,  secretary  of  war.  Both  accompanied  him 
to  the  white  house,  where  the  doctor  was  presented  to  Mr. 
Polk,  who  invited  him  to  an  interview  with  himself  and  the 


^tiy 


■■"■■  ''.■• 


ii- 


816 


TEN    YE/v'.8   IN   OREGON. 


secretary  of  war,  at  dusk,  as  he  would  then  be  at  lei- 
euro.  He  then  returned  to  his  lodgings,  scarcely  repressing 
a  smile  at  the  seeming  importance  a  four  years'  residence  in 
the  Orcfjon  woods  had  <A\Qn  him.  13ut  in  the  midst  of  kind 
and  flattering  attention  from  all  (quarters,  he  could  not  for- 
get his  dear  family,  from  whom,  till  this  trip  to  Oregon, 
he  had  never  been  separated,  at  any  one  time,  exceeding 
a  fortnight.  Therefore,  despatching  his  business  as  soon  as 
possible,  with  a  heart  throbbing  with  yearning  emotions,  he 
started  for  his  home  in  the  lake  country  of  New  York.  He 
spent  a  night  in  New  York  city,  where  he  enjoyed  the  plea- 
sure of  meeting  Avitli  several  friends,  and  among  them  was 
the  sheriff  of  the  county  where  he  resided,  and  his  old 
friend,  Mr.  McCormick,  of  Ithaca,  with  whom  he  travelled 
from  the  city.  They  reached  Ithaca  the  last  day  of  the 
year,  from  whence  the  doctor  hastened  to  his  little  cottage 
home,  in  Lansing,  where  he  was  once  more  clasped  in  the 
embrace  of  his  family. 

Extract  from  a  letter,  written  by  Dr.  White,  soon  after  his 
return,  to  the  editor  of  a  western  paper  : 


"  *  *  *  All  is  riecht  in  Orejion,  so  far  as  relates 
to  the  prosperity  and  contentment  of  those  who  have  emi- 
grated to  that  distant  region  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  in- 
convenience experienced  for  the  want  of  a  proper  circulating 
medium,  for  an  exchange  of  commercial  commodities,  yet  it 
is  but  just  to  say,  I  know  of  no  people  so  generally  pros- 
perous and  happy.  Indeed,  sir,  the  universal  expression  of 
the  virtu^ius  and  intelligent  part  of  the  population,  is,  that 
Oregon  excels  the  world  for  health,  variety  of  beautiful 
scener}--,  certainty  of  good  crops,  excellence  of  water,  and 
water  privileges,  for  abundance  of  the  choicest  quality  of 


TEN   YEARS   IN'    OREGON. 


317 


^i 


be  at  lei- 
,■■  lepressing 
residence  in 
lidst  of  kind 
dd  not  for- 

to  Oregon, 
!,  exceeding 
s  as  soon  as 
jmotions,  lie 

York.     He 
cd  the  plea 
i>:  til  em  was 
and   his  old 
he  travelled 

day  of  the 
!ttle  cottage 
isped  in  the 

3on  after  his 


ar  as  relates 
10  have  emi- 
ding  the  in- 

cii-culating 
ditics,  yet  it 
erally  pros- 
xpression  of 
ion,  is,  that 
of  beautiful 

water,  and 
t  quality  of 


salmon,  and  for  strength  and  depth  of  soil.  I  know  of  no 
people  so  generally,  or  so  highly  pleased  with  their  loca- 
tions, or  homes,  as  those  of  the  Willamette  valley.  From  a 
nine  years'  residence  there,  1  must  pronounce  it  the  most 
mild,  equable,  and  salubrious  climate  of  Avhich  I  have  any 
knowledge.  Nor  do  I  believe  any  population  have  suffered 
so  little  from  sickness,  or  had  so  few  deaths  in  the  same 
length  of  time,  since  the  commencement  of  the  colonizing  of 
America.  All  portions  of  Oregon  are  distinctly  healthy  ; 
most  parts  Avell  adapted  to  grazing  ;  a  district,  as  Captain 
Wilkes  so  justly  remarked,  of  the  lower  portion,  sufficient  to 
sustain  a  population  equal  to  that  of  New  England,  is  admi- 
rably fitted  both  for  grazing  and  agriculture.       ** 


* 


*•'> 


It  is  believed  that  no  lono-er  acco  than  the  commencement 
of  the  present  century,  not  less  than  five  hundred  thousand 
Indians  inhabited  the  wilds  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
within  the  territory  of  Oregon.  Even  admitting  this,  how 
sparse  a  population  is  this,  in  comparison  with  any  por- 
tion of  the  civilized  world.  Dr.  White,  by  the  most  careful 
attention,  in  his  official  investigations  in  1845,  found,  to  his 
entire  satisfaction,  that  not  exceeding  twenty-seven  thousand 
aborigines  were  left,  making  a  decrease,  in  less  than  half  a 
centur}^,  of  nine-tenths.  This  astonishing  diminution  was 
brought  about  by  the  introduction  into  the  country,  of  the 
white  man  and  his  diseases ;  among  the  latter,  that  frightful 
scourge,  the  small-pox  has  made  fearful  ravages,  and  in  many 
parts  the  fever  and  ague,  in  the  first  opening  of  the  forests, 
and  turning  over  of  the  prairie,  has  been  still  more  fatah 

The  woods  of  Oregon  exhibit  the  two  opposite  extremes 
more  forcibly  than  perhaps  any  other  country.  The  east- 
ern part  is  very  sparsely  timbered,  and  that  of  very  stinted 


I' 
■  •1 


'•  1.' 


318 


TBN  TSARS  IN    OREGOir. 


growth  ;  the  western  is  liappily  interspersed  with  prairie  and 
timber,  the  latter  of  very  luxuriant  growth.  The  variety  is 
quite  limited ;  the  red,  and  white  fir,  cedar,  pine,  sycamore, 
alder,  oak,  white  and  black,  hard  and  soft  maple,  ash,  elm, 
cotton  wood,  dogwood,  crab,  and  elder,  the  latter  of  which, 
grows,  as  Mr.  Parker  remarks,  to  a  size  elsewhere  unknown. 
The  following  comprise  some  of  the  natural  fruits :  goose- 
berries, strawberries,  blackberries,  servicebcrries,  cranber- 
ries, and  Scotchcap,  crab  apples,  wild  cherries,  Avild  peas, 
and  thorn  apple. 

The  fossil  kingdom  aflfords  small  variety,  the  basaltic  rock 
being  found  in  larger  quantities  than  any  other.  Few  speci- 
mens of  real  granite  are  found,  and  they  scattered  about  in 
ledges  of  a  few  hundred  tons,  and  long  distances  apart. 
White  marble  is  also  semetimes  found  in  the  upper  country ; 
lime  and  sand  stone  finish  the  variety,  except  far  to  the  north, 
free  stone  is  found  in  large  quantities.  Though  strong  indi- 
cations on  the  surface  seem  to  suggest  that  Oregon  abounds 
in  minerals,  yet,  from  the  slight  observations  thus  far  made 
coal,  iron,  and  platina  alone  have  been  discovered,  and  it  is 
supposed  by  many,  that  the  earth  has  undergone  such  change 
in  the  heat  of  volcanic  action,  that  most  of  the  minerals  have 
been  reduced  to  a  state  of  fusion,  and  escaped. 

The  buffalo,  whose  old  trails  show  how  numerous  they 
have  been  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains,  are  now 
fast  disappearing,  the  comparatively  few  there  are  left,  are  in 
the  eastern  and  upper  portions  of  the  country.  The  elk, 
black-tailed  and  common  deer,  grizzly  and  black  bear,  three 
species  of  the  wolf,  wildcat,  panther,  fox,  hare,  rabbit,  ante- 
lope, racoon,  porcupine,  weasel,  polecat,  squirrel,  mountain 
sheep,  beaver  and  otter  constitute  the  animals  of  the  terri- 
tory.    The  birds,  are  the  eagle,  swan,  goose,  loon,  duck, 


TEN  YEARS  IN    OIIEOON. 


319 


prairie  and 
iG  variety  is 
,  sycamore, 
c,  ash,  elm, 
r  of  which, 
e  unknown, 
'its :  goose- 
s,   cranber- 

wild  peas, 

lasaltic  rock 
Few  speci- 
ed  about  in 
inces  apart, 
er  country ; 
o  the  north, 
strong  indi- 
on  abounds 
s  far  made 
I,  and  it  is 
luch  change 
inerals  have 

lerous  they 
IS,  are  now 
e  left,  are  in 
.  The  elk, 
bear,  three 
abbit,  ante- 
1,  mountain 
f  the  terri- 
loon,  duck. 


brant,  crow,  hawk,  raven,  mngpic,  pigeon,  wicn,  robin,  swal- 
low, bluejay,  buzzard,  cormorant,  gull,  owl,  bluebird,  yel- 
lowbird,  and  hummingbird.  There  are  probably  a  few  oth- 
ers, omitted  in  the  above  list. 

The  soil  of  the  interior  and  castcm  portion  is  light  and 
sandy,  like  Poland,  being  capaciated  for  grazing  rather  than 
arable  purposes  ;  while  in  the  western  and  south-western  it 
is  a  mixture  of  clay,  loom  and  sand,  and  alluvial  deposit, 
much  of  the  soil  partaking  of  a  salicous  nature,  and  is  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  the  production  of  wheat,  indeed,  no 
country  excells  it  in  this  respect. 

The  legislators  of  Oregon  are  selected  from  three  classes ; 
First,  mission  gentlemen,  not  clergymen,  but  those  filling  the 
secular  department ;  second,  the  most  enterprising  and  in- 
telligent of  the  western  people,  who  have  settled  in  the 
country,  with  considerable  property ;  the  third  class  arc 
principally  those  who  have  previously  been  for  a  considera- 
ble time  in  the  fur  companies,  and  h.ive  now  settled  in 
the  "Willamette  valley.  They  freqently,  after  the  business  of 
the  day,  amuse  the  first  two  classes,  with  tales  of  by -gone 
days,  contrasting  their  present  situation  with  what  it  was 
when  they  were  hunting  and  trapping  with  the  tribes  of  the 
mountains.  Joseph  Meek — now  in  the  states  with  the  news 
of  the  disturbances  in  Oregon — the  first  sheriflf  elected  un- 
der the  provisional  government,  and  afterwards  re^.i-esenta- 
tive  ;  a  real  wag,  was  famous  for  his  wit,  ready-mindedness, 
and  especially  for  his  ample  fund  of  good  humor  and  bra- 
very. He  was  once  hard  pressed  by  the  Black  Feet,  and  on 
a  tardy-moving  mule,  and  his  companions,  being  better  moun- 
ted, soon  distanced  him.  The  bullets  flew  around  his  ears, 
and  through  his  garments,  and  spurring  furiously,  he  shout- 
ed to  his  friends  "  stop !  stop !  hold  on,  boys !  there  is  no 


•Vii.-. 


't;    J 


I 


320 


TEN  YEAnS   IN   OREGON. 


t 

■ij 

3 

ll 

T   1 

4 

k'.'    iff 

■      i    '.•1 

ir  t;*i(B 

J 

i 

clanycr  !*"  13ut  tlioy  pushed  on  unhcedingly,  dlsti  usliriLj  lii-« 
assurances  of  safety,  when  occuhir  demonstnition  so  strongly 
asserted  to  the  contrary.  Suddenly,  muly  received  a  flesh 
wound,  it  stirred  up  his  locomotive  powers,  and  ho  exercised 
them  to  admiration,  for  to  the  astonishment  of  his  rider,  he 
overtook  his  company  and  passed  tliem.  As  lie  was  rapidly 
leaving  them  behind,  he  cried,  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 

"  Come  on  !  come  on,   I  tell  you!     lliJo  for  your  lives  ! 
They  will  kill  every  blood  of  you." 

They  were  now  more  credulous  than  before,  and  strove  to 
obey  him  with  all  the   speed  of  their  horses.     Ilis  escape 
under  Providence,  was  owing  to  the  leaden  touch  received 
by  the  sensijtivc  plant  he  bestrode. 

This  legislative  body  have  again  and  again  petitioned  the 
congress  of  the  United  States  to  extend  jurisdiction  over 
Oregon,  making  sensible,  and  even  moving  appeal-:,  urging 
the  moral  wrong  of  stripping  the  Indian  race  of  their  lands,, 
game  and  fisheries,  without  rendering  compensation  for  what 
is  to  them  so  valuable ;  also  of  leaving  American  citizens, 
who  were  encouraged  to  emigrate  to  that  country,  surround- 
ed by  hordes  of  Indians  without  any  protection  from  the 
home  government.  The  irritation  on  the  part  of  the  natives 
arising  from  the  whites  pouring  in,  in  such  numbers,  and  de- 
spoiling them  of  their  rights,  often  jeopardizes  the  dearest 
interests  of  the  settlors,  and  reflects  great  discredit  on  the 
government,  for  not  rjjhting  the  wrong  of  the  Indians,  and 
protecting  hav  oyfrn'\\AZ(ix\^.  No  people,  imdcr  the  circum- 
stances, could  have  behaved  more  worthily,  and  none  hav^ 
been,  apparently,  more  coldly  neglected.  Indeed,  govern- 
ment is  accused  of  having  been  culpably  remiss  in  the  per- 
formance of  her  duties  both  to  the  Oregonians,  and  those 
who  have  been  there  employed  in  her  service.     All  such  ofR- 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OKKGON, 


321 


}  stron'^lv 

ed  a  flcsli 
exercised 
rider,  he 

as  rapidl}' 

lice, 

3ur  lives ! 

I  strove  tc 
!is  escapu 
1  received 

itioned  the 
ction  over 
ds,  urging,' 
heir  land?. 

I  for  what 
n  citizens, 
surround  - 

from  the 
he  natives 
s,  and  dc- 
hc  dearest 
dit  on  the 
dians,  and 
10  circum- 
nonc  hav 
d,  govern - 

II  the  per- 
and  those 
I  such  offi- 


cers ns  have  even  touched  tlicre,  in  the  performance  of  their 
ofTu'ifd  duties,  instead  of  beinj;  liherally  rewarded  for  their 
tuillifuhiess,  seem  to  havi;  received  that  wliieh  was  not  so 
L;ralifyiiig.  Comiuodoro  Wilkes  nohly  braved  the  dangers 
and  difheultiesof  his  long,  exploring  campaign,  doing  lionor 
(o  himself  and  his  country,  in  developing  the  condition  and 
lesource.'?  of  Oregon.  Immediately  on  his  arrival  at  Wash- 
ington, on  a  few,  petty,  malicious  accusations,  he  was  court- 
marshalled,  and  it  was  gravely  decided  that  he  should  re- 
(eive  an  open  reprimand  from  the  secretary  of  war. 

Colonel  Fremont,  certainly  one  of  the  most  intrepid 
spirits  of  the  age,  has  twice  visitt;d  Oicgon,  and  so  far  as  the 
public  have  been  permitted  to  perceive,  is  deserving  of  the 
highest  encomiums.  On  his  return,  a  dejected  prisioncr, 
from  his  post  of  danger,  where  he  appears  to  have  been  le- 
gitimately placed,  he  is  dragged  before  another  Washington 
iiibunal.  Here,  what  a  large  sum  of  money  was  ex- 
pended in  "  endeavors  to  blast  the  prospects,  and  blight  the 
fame"  of  this  indefatigable  laborer  for  the  public  weal,  and 
he  is  professedly  found  guilty  of  treason.  The  president,  not 
at  all  concurring  in  this  expression,  and  yet  unwilling  tlia( 
so  grave  a  body  should  be  dishonored,  under  his  administra- 
tion, treats  the  subject  in  such  a  manner,  that  Fremont,  in 
disgust,  throws  up  his  commission,  and  retires  forever  from 
the  service  of  his  country. 

Dr.  White,  Avhosc  reports  were  treated  in  the  most  flat- 
tering manner  by  the  '.ommissioner  of  Indian  affairs,  in  his 
icporls  to  the  secretary  of  war,  continued,  with  every  dem- 
onstration of  favor,  the  whole  of  his  term — four  years — in 
his  perilous,  and  arduous  duties,  in  which,  in  the  absence  of 
all  aid  from  the  government,  he  seems  to  have  been  entirely 
-tiucessful.  He  finally  returned  by  the  request  of,  and  bear- 
21 


•  t 


tBm 

,  ''ft 

HE 

1            '■ 

is 

* 

isl 

'.'■■'' 

1     '  ■■ 

1 

i 

r 
'I 

322 


TKN  TEARS  IN    ORKOOK. 


ing  a  memorial  and  petition  from,  the  legislature  of  Oregon, 
and  Avas  received  at  Washington  with  every  indication  of 
kind  regard,  and  as  I  find  from  a  note  in  his  possession,  di- 
rected by  the  secretary  of  war,  dated  the  6tli  of  January 
three  days  after  reaching  his  family,  he  is  ordered  back  U.> 
his  agency  as  soon  as  practicable.  And  yet,  on  account  of 
a  paltry  sum  he  is  obliged  to  disburse  annually,  to  preserve 
peace  and  quietness  betwe«?n  the  whites  and  Indians,  he  is  de- 
tained at  Washington,  on  heavy  expenses,  for  nine  monthds. 
to  get  a  bill  passed  through  congress  for  hi  5  relief,  In 
the  meantime,  some  malicious  persons,  taking  advantage  of 
his  detention,  and  make  such  representations,  as  impair 
his  credi*  with  the  president,  and  he  is  given  to  understand, 
that  ho  is  no  longer  required  in  the  service.  So  he  retires 
from  his  thai:!kless  office,  having  retained  it  at  the  stupen- 
dous yearly  salary  of  seven  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  for 
the  performance  of  laborious  and  onerous  duties,  while  a 
clerk  at  Washington  receives  from  one  thousand  to  fifteen 
hundred  dollars  for  six  houi  i'  labor  per  day,  and  living  at 
then-  ease.  Every  effort  was  made  by  Dr.  White's  numer- 
ous fiiends  at  the  capitcl,  to  double  his  salary  according  to 
the  unquestionable  intimations  held  out  by  Mr.  Spencer,  sec- 
retary of  war,  under  president  Tyler,  to  the  doctor,  on  en- 
tering the  service,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  letter : 

Albany,  July  29,  i846. 

Dr.  Elijah  White: 

Dear  Sir  :  Your  letter  of  the  22d  inst.  was  duly  received ; 
and  I  regret  that  circumstances  have  prevented  an  earlier  an 
swer.     In  r.ompliance  with  your  request,  I  proceed  to  stat? 
the  circumstances  of  your  appointment  of  Indian  rub-agenf 
for  the  Oregon  couiitry. 


TR»   YEAU8    IN    OUEOON. 


328 


►rcgon. 
tion  of 
ion,  di- 
anuary 
jack  U> 
ount  of 
►reserv*^ 
ic  is  de- 
montbfs. 
ief,     In 
itage  of 
J  impair 
crstaad, 
}  retirev* 

stupen- 
lars,  for 

while  a 
0  fifteen 
living  at 

numer- 
rding  to 
icer,  sec- 
r,  on  en 
letter : 

9,  i846- 

received ; 

jarlier  an- 

to  statp 

ub-agent 


Soon  after  entering  the  war  department,  my  attention  was 
turned  to  the  condition  of  the  citizens  residing  upon,  or  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Columbia  river.  They  were  v.ot  only  without 
any  government  to  regulate  themselves,  but  they  were  prac- 
tically without  the  protection  of  incir  own  government,  and 
•exposed  to  the  encroachments  of  the  British  authorities 
there,  as  well  as  to  the  attacks  of  the  Indians. 

In  the  then  condition  of  our  relations  with  Great  Britain, 
it  was  very  important  that  our  citizens  should   have  softie 
known  agent  of  the  government,  to  who :n  they  might  looli 
for  advice  an:l  some  degree  of  protection  ;  and  it  was  equally 
important  that  the  government  should  have  some  trustwor- 
thy and  responsible  officer  upon  the  spot,  to  watch  c  ur  in 
terests  and  inform  us  of  every  movement  of  the  British  au 
thorities  and  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  company,  and  to  inter 
pose,  as  far  as   possible,   to   prevent    Indian    aggressions. 
WMlo  the  subject  was  under  consideration,  both  by  the  pres- 
ident and  myself,  you  appeared  at  Washington  and  was  in- 
troduced to  me.     We  learned  that  you  had  resided  at  Willa 
raette,   on  the  Columbia,  and  in  conversation  with  you,  1 
found  you  to  be  well  inforu.ed  on  the  subject,  and  that  you 
fully  appreciated  the  objects  of  an  agency  there.     After  con 
sultation  Avith  the  president,  and  with  Dr.  Linn,  tne  distin- 
guished Senator  from  Missouri,  who  for  years  had  taken  par 
ticular  interest  in  the  matter,  and  with  their  advice  and  sanc- 
tion, I  proposed  to  you  the  appointment  of  Indian  sdb  agent 
for  the  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountain^ — that  being 
the  only  office  in  the  power  of  the  executive    to  bestow 
which  would  at  all  answer  the  purpose  in  view,  andyou  waa 
urged  to  accept  it,  an  J  t?  raise  as  large  a  company  of  our 
citizens  as  possible,  to  proceed  with  you,  and  settle  in  the 
Oregon  country.     The  insufficiency  of   the  salary— seven 


il 


324 


TE»   TEARS   IN    OREGON'. 


Er 


;.^ 


hundred  and  fifty  dollars — was  admitted,  but  it  was  the  best 
v.e  could  offer ;  and,  as  an  inducement  to  you  to  accept  the 
appointment,  you  was  told  that  a  bill  had  been,  or  would  be, 
introduced  into  the  senate  by  Dr.  Linn,  in  relation  to  the  Or- 
egon territory,  in  which  provisions  would  be  made  for  Indian 
agencies  of  a  higher  grade  and  greater  compensation  ;  and  I 
think  one  thousand  five  hundred  or  two  thousand  dollars  was 
mentioned  as  the  probable  salary.  You  was  assured,  that  if 
jiuch  a  bill  passed  congress,  you  would  receive  an  appoint- 
ment to  the  highest  grade  of  agency,  and  that  you  might 
depend  upon  the  support  of  the  department,  and  the  good 
will  of  the  president — and  the  utmost  liberality  consit^tent 
with  the  laws,  in  defraying  any  extra  expenses  which  \\q.^ 
authorized.  Under  these  circumstances  you  accepted  Jn.- 
appointment  of  sub-Indian  agent,  and  I  have  no  doubt  with 
the  expectation  of  receiving  an  appointment  of  a  higher 
grade,  and  with  a  larger  salary.  The  bill  of  Senator  Linn 
did  not  pass,  and  you  was  left  ir,  the  place  to  which  you  was 
originally  appointed. 

1  bear  testimony  very  cheerfully  to  the  fidelity  and  zeal 
with  which  you  discharged  the  duties  of  your  station,  and 
endeavored  to  accomplish  the  objects  of  government.  You 
succeeded  in  organizing  a  party  of  more  than  one  hundred 
of  our  citizens  to  emigrate  to  Oregon  ;  and  I  have  every  rea- 
son to  believe  that  your  services  were  eminently  useful  to  the 
government,  and  beneficial  to  the  so' tiers.  I  deeply  regret 
that  it  Avas  not  in  the  power  of  the  administration,  of  v>^hich 
I  was  a  member,  to  render  you  adequate  remuneration  for 
those  services,  and  for  the  great  labor  and  toil,  and  the  de- 
votion of  your  time,  to  what  was  then  deemed,  and  is  stiU 
believed  to  have  been,  objects  of  great  public  interest.     I 


i 


l'— =: 


.»  0^^ 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OUEGOK. 


325 


1 


trust  that  the  present  congress  will  make  a  liberal  provision 
for  the  deficiency. 

Very  respectfully,  your  ob't  servant, 

J.  C.  SPENCER. 

The  above  is  in  answer  to  one  written  by  Dr.  White,  at 
the  request  of  the  committee  on  Indian  affairs,  relative  to  the 
circumstances  of  his  appointment  of  Indian  Sub- Agent  for 
Orcoon  Territory.  But  the  exertions  of  his  friends  were 
defeated  by  a  few  heated  partizans  of  the  south,  who, 
r:  the  bill,  by  a  two-thirds  vote,  came  up  out  of  its  usu- 
al ordcH,  the  last  hour  of  the  session,  proposed  an  amend- 
ment, reducing  the  pi'oposcd  stipend  of  fifteen  hundred  dol- 
lars, to  seven  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  their  organ  swear- 
ing that  unless  accepted,  he  would  speak  out  the  remnant 
of  the  time  allotted,  and  thereby  defeat  the  bill.  The  doc- 
tor's fi  lends  were  silenced,  and  lie,  after  his  public  expendi- 
tures were,  paid,  obliged  to  accept  this  paltry  sum  for 
defraying  annually  the  pj'ivate  expenses  of  himself  and 
family  ;  while  Ms  opponents  were  receiving  eight  dollars 
per  day,  with  all  conting<Mit  expenses  and  franking  piivile- 
ges  granted  additionally,  by  their  own  legislative  enactment. 
Thi.s  JKindsome  dismissal  wa.s  received  \ cry  pliilosoplncally, 
and  lie  rolired  to  the  b(Jsom  of  his  family,  in  Lansing' — the 
little  h;imlet,  only  three  miles  from  the  beautiful  Cayuga.. 
But,  while  the  spot  was  so  well  supj)licd  wi'Ji  natural  beau- 
iics,  it  was  wantino-  i,;i  others  that  would  add  to  its  attrac- 
tion.  The  place  was  in  a  much  depressed  condition,  al- 
thouL''h  surrounded  v.'uh  tlirifi,  weidtli,  and,  as  ha.^  siiic* 
been  dcmnnstrated,  public  spiiit.  But  this  spirit  was  in  u 
state  of  iu.ictivity,  and  the  lir.st  exertions  of  the  doctor  wer-' 


kf. 

v>1.- 

■.>"*•; 

iy- 

%•-.''.  f 

•!    i\» 

r.:  ir 

'♦2  t 


i  I'l 


326 


TKN  Y£AIIS   IX    OREGON. 


directed  to  its  arousal,  and  success  crowned  the  effort  far 
beyond  what  might  have  been  anticipated. 

The  house  of  God,  a  neat  brick  church,  was  first  painted 
within  and  without,  handsomely  fenced,  with  other  fixtures, 
and  corresponding  improvements.  Next,  the  public  house, 
the  only  liquor  establishment,  is  purchased  by  sixteen  gen- 
tlemen, at  the  expense  of  one  hundred  dollars  each,  and  un- 

cr  a  strong  constitution,  becomes  tee- total  forever;  is  re- 
paired, and  put  into  a  condition  to  be  carried  on  in  connexion 
with  {  *iial  enterprise,  exceeding  the  others  in  magnitude  and 
good  pj  A  large,  fine  building — formerly  a  church — 

on  a  comm.uiiding  site,  is  no  longer  to  be  abandoned  and 
run  to  dilapidation.  Lansing,  nothing  wearied,  redoubles 
her  efforts,  and  in  a  short  time  thousands  are  contributed  to 
tit  up  a  literary  institution,  worthy  the  position  and  such  a 
people.  And  what  undertaking  more  highly  commendable 
than  to  provide  "ways  and  means"  for  the  free,  liberal  edu- 
cation of  youth  ?     Surely  none. 

Upon  the  presentation  of  Dr.  W.  to  the  philanthropic,  en- 
terprising association  of  I.  0.  of  O.  F.,  of  which  he  is  a  mem- 
ber, which  they  receive  with  favor,  he  is  offered  an  endow- 
ment for  the  contemplated  academy — a  sum  worthy  this 
honorable  b  enevolent  order.  And  a  special  mark  of  favor 
is  a  proposition  of  placing  in  the  school,  as  its  head,  profes- 
sor Hopkins,  Deputy  G.  M.  of  Cayuga  District,  and  standing 
correspondingly  high  in  the  esteem  of  his  brotliers,  his  abil- 
ities having  been  fairly  tested  by  fourteen  year's  experience 
as  principal  in  so  respectable  an  establishment,  in  the  city  of 
Auburn. 

All  this  is  being  done  by  the  Odd  Fellows,  with  the 
simple  condition  of  continually  retaining  the  privilege  of  pla- 
cing there  their  orphans,  the  little  village  being  sunicicntly 


TBH  TBARB  IN    OREOOK. 


327 


quiet  and  retired  for  the  puipose  of  educating  such  chil- 
dren, entirely  free  from  the  vitiating  influeu;es  of  larger 
places  ;  a  temperance  hotel  and  boardinghouse,  good  moral 
society,  a  steady  place  of  divine  worship,  health  and  scen- 
ny,  with  other  advantages  seldom  combined  in  a  single  lo- 
(^tion,  are  here  united. 

Thus  Dr.  White,  after  his  truly  adventurous  life,  respon- 
sible duties,  and  many  dangers,  finds  himself  settled,  in 
what  has  been  conceded  by  travellers  to  be  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  spots,  in  the  exact  centre  town  of  the  old  Empire 
State. 


;-n 


-;■'•■ 


■W\'t-' 


n 


328 


TEN   YEAliS   IN    OREGON. 


SUPPLEMENT. 


"i  '4 


8 


TiiK  following  interesting  report  Iiaving  been  accidentally 
omitted,  and  finding  other  valuable  information  relative  to 
Oregon,  in  Dr.  White's  possession,  I  trust  the  supplement 
will  not  be  regarded  unfavorably,  especially  as  it  contains 
matter  highly  creditable  to  the  Oregonians,  and  useful  to  all 
such  as  purpose  emigrating  to  that  country. 

Department  of  War,  Oflicc  of  Indian  AfTairs,  Nov.  24, 1845. 
******* 

Two  interesting  and  very  instructive  reports  have  been 
received  from  the  sub-agent  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountain?. 
They  present  that  country  in  a  new  and  important  light  to 
the  consideration  of  the  public. 

The  advancement  made  in  civilization  by  the  numerous 
trib(,'s  of  Indians  in  that  remote  and  hitherto  neglected  por- 
tion of  our  territory,  Vvith  so  few  advantages,  is  a  matter  of 
surprise.  Indeed,  the  red  ukmi  of  that  region  would  almo;:t 
seem  to  be  of  a  different  order  from  tho.'^e  witli  whom  we  have 
been  in  niore  familiar  intercourse.  A  few  years  since,  tb-' 
fiice  of  a  AV'hite  man  was  almost  unknown  to  them  ;  now, 
through  the  benevolent  policy  of  the  various  christian  church- 
es, and  the  indefatigable  exertions  of  the  missionaries  in  their 


TEN    YEARS   IK    OUEOON. 


329 


t  ■ 


•n  1 


been 
itiiins. 
rht  to 

icrous 
d  por- 
ter of 
1 1  most 
have 
',  lb.' 
novr, 
iiircb- 
1  tbcir 


employ,  they  have  piesciibed  and  well  adapted  rules  for 
their  government,  which  are  observed  and  respected  to  u 
degree  worthy  of  the  most  intelligent  whites. 

Numerous  schools  liave  grown  up  in  their  midst,  at  which 
their  children  are  acquirijig  the  most  important  and  useful 
information.  They  have  already  adviaiced  to  a  degree  of 
civilization  that  promises  the  most  beneficial  results  to  them 
and  their  brethren  on  this  side  the  mountains,  with  whom 
they  may,  and  no  doubt  will  at  some  future  period,  be  brought 
into  intercourse.  They  are  turning  their  attention  to  agri- 
cultural pursuits,  and,  with  but  few  of  the  necessary  uten- 
sils in  their  possession,  already  produce  sufficient  in  some 
places  to  meet  their  every  want. 

Among  some  of  the  tribes  huntinu-  has  been  almost  en- 
tirely  abandoned,  many  individuals  looking  wholly  to  the  soil 
for  support. 

The  lands  are  represented  as  exti'eniely  fertile,  nnd  the  cli- 
mate healthy,  agreeable,  and  uniform. 

Under  these  circumstances,  so  promi.^ing  in  their  conse- 
qu  n<'es,  i;nd  grateful  to  the  feelings  of  the  philanthropist,  it 
would  seem  to  be  the  duty  of  the  government  of  the  Uni- 
ted Stalca  to  encourage  their  advancement,  and  still  fuither 
aid  tliC'ir  j}rogrcss  in  tlie  paths  of  civilizution.  I  therefore 
respectfully  recommend  the  establishment  among  them  uf  a 
full  Mgency,  with  power  to  the  pi'esident  to  nuike  i.  iin  act- 
ing supeiintendcncy  ;  nud  to  appoint  one  or  more  sub-;igent.s 
whenever,  in  his  judgement,  the  same  may  become  necessary 
and  pidpor. 

All  uf  uhich  is  respectfully  aubmitted. 

W.  MEDIT.L. 

lion.  Wm.  L.  Makcv, 

Secietary  of  \V;ir. 


■~f>    ■■■' 


•      'I 


m 


<;^: 


330 


TEN    YRARB  IN    OREGOIT. 


Willamette,  Nov.  24,  1844. 

Sir — The  Hudson's  Bay  ship  Columbia,  sailing  in  a  few 
days,  via.  Sandwich  Islands,  for  England,  by  the  politeness  of 
her  owners  I  have  the  honor  of  again  addressing  you,  and 
certainly  under  circumstances  most  favorable  and  galifying. 

Since  my  last,  forwarded  >n  March,  aside  from  two  or 
three  incidents  of  an  unpleasant  nature,  the  colony  and  coun- 
try have  been  in  a  state  of  unusual  quietness,  and  the  sea- 
son has  been  one  of  great  prosperity. 

The  legislative  body,  composed  of  nine  members,  met  on 
the  24th  of  May,  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette,  and  closed 
their  short  but  effective  session  in  nine  days ;  having  passed, 
in  due  form,  twenty-five  bills,  most  of  which  were  of  impor- 
tance to  us  in  the  regulation  of  our  intercourse.  A  few  of 
these  laws  I  transmit  to  you,  and  would  here  remaik,  that 
the  taxe**  were  in  general  cheeifuUy  paid.  The  liquor  bill 
is  popular,  and  the  laws  of  Oregon  are  honored. 

The  liquor  act  not  coming  in  force  under  sixty  days  from 
its  passage,  a  few  individuals — having  clandestinely  prepa- 
red, before  its  passage — improved  this  favored  moment  to 
dispose  of  all  they  could  with  any  hopes  of  safety.  Of  this 
T  was  immediately  notified,  and  hastened  in  from  the  Fala- 
tine  plains,  all  the  mischief  "  as  heretofore,"  being  done  in 
and  about  the  town  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette. 

Liquor  was  in  our  midst,  as  was  but  too  manifest  from  the 
noisy,  vulgar,  obscene,  and  even  diabolical  expressions  of 
those  who  had  previously  ever  conducted  in  a  quiet  and  or- 
derly manner. 

This  was  plerplexing  and  exciting,  as  all  professed  igno- 
rance ;  and  many  opinions  prevailed  regarding  the  amount 
manufactured,  and  the  number  interested,  and  especially  re- 
garding the  seat  of  mischief  or  point  where  distilled. 


TKKYKAllS   IN    ORKGON. 


331 


:,  1844. 

in  ji  fevr 
leness  of 
you,  and 
;utifying. 
I  two  or 
,ud  coun- 
thc  sea- 

s,  met  on 
nd  closed 
ig  passed, 
of  impor- 
A  few  of 
nark,  that 
liquor  bill 

lays  from 

L'ly  prepa- 

aoment  to 

,     Of  this 

the  Fala- 


ho:  done  in 


st  from  the 

cssions  of 

iel  and  or- 

ssed  igno- 
he  amount 
pecially  re- 
lied. 


I  resolved,  at  whatever  danger  or  cost  to  nip  this  in  the 


bud, 


il>l 


meetnig  at  once, 
owing  expression  from  a 


d  had 


)rocuied  the  call  of  a 
the  happiness  to  receive  th( 
one  convened  : 

"Resolved,  That  it  be  the  sense  of  this  meeting,  that  Dr. 
White,  in  his  official  relation,  take  such  assistance  as  he  may 
require,  and  forthwith  search  out  and  destroy  all  intoxicating 
liquor  that  may  be  found  in  this  vicinity  or  district  of  coun- 
try. 

P.  G.  STEWART, 
Executive  Chairman. 

John  E.  Lomo,  Secretary." 

I  started  wiuh  ten  volunteers  early  the  ensuing  morning, 
and  found  the  distillery  in  a  deep,  dense  thicket,  eleven  miles 
from  tow:i,  at  three  o'clock,  P.  M.  The  boiler  was  a  large 
sized  potash  kettle,  and  all  the  apparatus  well  accorded. 
Two  hogsheads  and  eight  barrels  of  slush  or  beer  were 
•sUinding  leady  for  distillation,  with  a  part  of  one  barrel  of 
molasses.  No  liquor  was  to  be  found,  nor  as  yet  had  much 
been  distilled. 

Having  resolved  on  my  course,  I  left  no  time  for  reflec- 
tion, but  at  once  upset  the  nearest  cask,  whd)  Mie  noble  vol- 
unteers immediately  seconded  my  mea^iures,  making  a  river 
of  beer  in  a  moment ;  nor  did  we  stop  till  the  kettle  was 
raised,  and  elevated  in  triumph  at  the  prow  of  our  boat,  and 
every  cask,  with  all  the  distilling  apparatus,  was  broken  to 
pieces  and  utterly  destroyed.  We  then  returned,  in  high 
cheer,  to  the  town,  where  our  presence  and  report  gave  gea- 
cral  joy. 

Two  hours  after  my  arrival,  I  received  from  James  Con- 
nor, one  of  the  owners,  a  written  challenge  foi'  a  bloody 
combat ;  which  v.nded  hu;t  week  in  his  being  indicted  before 


332 


TEN  YEARS    IN    OKEGON. 


u 


'  Jl 


..,1',. 


the  grand  jury,  fined  five  hundred  dollars,  und  disfrancliised 
for  life. 

Six  weeks  since,  an  unhappy  affray  occurrt^d  between  one 
Joel  Turnham,  late  from  Missouri,  and  Webley  Ilauxhaust, 
of  Willamette,  and  serious  threats  passing  from  the  former, 
a  warrant  was  issued,  and  Turnham,  resisting  with  a  deadly 
weapon,  was  shot  down  by  the  officer;  for  which  he  comes 
before  the  grand  jury  to-morrow.  Turnham  expired  at  once, 
beini;  shot  with  three  mortal  wounds  throu{rh  the  neck  and 
head,  but  with  singular  desperation  fought  and  resisted  to 
the  last. 

So  fj'-  <is  I  understand  the  public  expression,  all  unite  in 
acquitting  the  officer,  who  has  ever  been  a  harmless,  quiet, 
good  citizen  ;  while  Turnham  was  regarded  as  a  most  des- 
perate and  dangerous  character  all  abroad,  having  left  Mis- 
souri under  circumstances  most  unfavorable  to  his  reputation 
and  (juiet  here,  where  he  has  been  particularly  sour,  irrita- 
ble and  quarrelsome  ;  rnd  was  the  more  obnoxious  as  he  was 
reputed  brave  and  generally  too  stout  for  his  antagonist. 

November  8th.  Since  penning  the  last,  the  grand  jury 
have  unanimously  declared  no  bill ;  and  here  allow  me  to 
saj',  having  accompanied  Judge  Babcock  to  four  of  the  courts 
embraced  in  the  circuit  of  five  counties,  I  have  not  seen  in 
any  ccnuitry,  such  uniform  dcci.rum  and  quietness  Jis  has 
previtik'd  throughout  at  these  courts.  Muoh  of  this  njild- 
ness,  sobriety,  and  good  order  i^i  doubtless  altvibutiible  to  the 
absence  of  all  intoxicating  drinks. 

The  liavs  of  this  country,  framed  to  meet  present  circura- 
stance>^,  are  taking  deeper  and  stronger  root  continually. 
And  some  arc  already  suggesting,  "  notwithstanding  our  in- 
fancy," wliether,  if  longer  h'ft  without  a  mother's  protection, 
it  will  not  be  well  to  undertake  to  run  alone. 


JJ 


m 


TliU   VnAUS    IN    OREGON. 


038 


•anchised 

ween  one 
luxhuubt, 
e  former, 
a  deadly 
he  comes 
id  at  once, 
neck  and 
esisted  to 

I  unite  in 
l'ss,  quiet, 
most  des- 
j  left  Mis- 
reputation 
pur,  irrita- 
as  he  was 
>'onist. 
rand  jury 
o\v  mc  to 
the  courts 
ot  seen  in 
;ss  as  has 
this  mild- 
;ible  to  thi' 

at  circiira- 
)t!tinually. 
mg  our  ip.- 
t)iotectiun. 


The  resources  of  the  country  are  rapidly  duveloj)ing,  and 
the  expectations  of  tl.c  people  arc  generally  high  ;  the  iniUl- 
ncss  of  the  climate  and  the  strength  of  the  soil  greatly  en- 
courage the  large  emigration  of  last  year.  For  the  last 
Uelvemonths.the  mercury  has  ranged  from  ninety-six  tt)  tliir- 
ty  ;  four-fifths  of  the  time  from  eighty  to  fifly-five  ;  making 
tn  agreeable  summer  and  mild  winter,  grazing  being  good 
throughout,  so  much  so,  that  the  jaded  and  worn  down  ani- 
mals of  the  poor  emigrants  fattiid  up,  greatly  to  their  sur- 
prise, before  spring,  without  fe-  ding  or  the  least  atten- 
Uon. 

Crops  of  all  kinds  usually  good,  even  to  Indian  com,  and 
cheerfulness  prevails  throughout  since  harvesting.  As  slate- 
incnts  have  been  made  in  the  states  derogatory  to  our  soil, 
allow  me  to  say,  it  is  believed,  with  the  same  cullivati(Mi,  no 
country  produces  better  wheat,  oats,  peas,  barley,  potatoes, 
or  any  crops,  save  Indian  corn,  for  which  the  nights  are  gen- 
<;rally  too  cool  for  a  heavy  growth.  The  wheat  crops  being 
never  injured  by  the  frosts  of  winter  or  the  rains  of  sum- 
mer, "  as  in  the  states,"  arc  remarkably  sure  ;  nor  as  yet 
have  our  crops  been  disturbed  by  flies  or  insects. 

Wheat  crops  are  heavy,  as  you  will  judge  when  I  assure 
you  from  siraj)ly  turning  over  the  prairie  in  June,  scattering 
the  seed  in  October,  and  then,  with  no  further  trouble  than 
passing  the  harrow  over  it,  ten  acres  upon  my  plantation 
grew  live  hundred  and  forty-one  bushels  and  a  half.  I'hc 
river  flats,  containing  much  alluvial  deposit,  arc  very  rich ; 
the  plains  beautiful  and  verdant,  being  admirably  watered, 
but  generally  sparsely  timbered ;  the  high  Unds  well  tim- 
bered and  watered  in  mnny  parts,  the  soil  tolerable,  produ- 
cing herbage  for  an  abundance  of  deer,  elk,  mountain  sheep, 
etc.  etc.     The  entire  Willamette  and  Umpqua  valleys,  capa- 


.  •    ij 


834 


TEK   TEARS  IN    OnEOOK. 


l|lf 

m 


*^| 


e      ■ 


i-    l^-^^, 


ble  of  sustaining  a  population  of  sovcral  millions,  it  is  gonr 
rally  Ix'liovcd  cannot  be  excelled,  as  a  whole,  for  richness  of 
soil,  viiii(!ty,  grandeur,  or  beauty  of  scenery ;  nor,  consider 
ing  the  latitude,  can  be  equalled  in  mildness,  equability,  and 
agreeableness  of  climate. 

Since  last  writing,  abundance  of  limestone  has  been  found 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  likewise  in  tins  valley 
conveniently  obtained,  and  proves  of  an  excellent  quality. 
The  llev.  Mr.  Desni'itt  arrived  here  in  August  last,  bring 
ing,  as  a  part  of  his  cargo,  six  priests,  and  as  many  nun?, 
fine,  hale  looking  girls,  very  acceptable  just  now,  particu 
larly  as  the  Methodist  mission  is  breaking  up,  and  the  half 
breed  Canadian  daughters  are  iaj)idly  multiplying. 

Having  no  pilot  or  chart  to  depend  upon,  and   his  com 
mandcr  a  stranger,  he  sailed  in  through  the  south  channel, 
greatly  to  the  surprise  and  alarm  of  all  on  shore  ;  but  with 
out  injury  or  difficulty,  not  onc<'   toncl.ing,  and    reporting 
abundance  of  water  for  the  heaviest  burden  ships  *     * 

The  sands  are  supposed  to  have  changed  an(  ..roved 
the  channel ;  but  of  this  I  know  nothing,  and  am  iiot  a  little 
skeptical  ;  and  am  induced  to  attribute  their  success  more  t<> 
the  (ln(!  day  and  small  vessel  than  change  of  the  sands  in 
their  favor,  since  Capt.  Wilkes  left.  Capt.  Couch,  however, 
who  has  now  been  passing  in  and  out  here  for  the  last  fiv<' 
years,  in  the  service  of  Mr.  Cashing,  of  Newbury  port,  pro 
nounces  it  a  better  port  to  enter  than  theirs,  and  says,  with 
pilots,  there  will  be  little  difficulty  or  danger. 

Our  exports  arc  wheat,  b(^aver,  salmon,  and  lumber,  for 

which  in  return  we  obtain  from  Sandwich  Islands  suffar. 

o 

molasse?;,  te.iT  coffee,  and  other  commodities  brought  from 
China,  England  and  America. 

Ve  are  much  in  want  of  a  currency  and  market,  Amen 


TEN    YEAUH    IN    OREGON. 


036 


t  IS  gene 
ichness  of 
consider 
hility,  and 

ecn  found 
his  valley 
it  quality 
ast,  bring 
lany  nun? 
V,  purlieu 
d  the  baU 

T. 
3 

[  bis  com 
Lb  cbanncV 
;  but  witb 
reporting 
i  *     * 

..roved 

liot  a  littb' 
^ss  more  t«> 
be  sands  in 
1,  bowcver. 
be  last  fivo 
yport,  pro 
I  says,  witb 

lumber,  for 
aids  sugar, 
ougbt  from 

ket,  Amen 


can  morcbants  being  as  yet  a  slender  reliance ;  and  in  view 
of  the  largo  emigrating  piirties  of  each  year,  we  should  be 
greatly  distressed  for  necessary  articb^s  of  wearing  apparel. 
but  for  the  commemlable  spirit  of  accommodation  on  tlie 
part  of  the  Hudson's  liay  Company. 

Could  some  arrangement  be  enteied  into  for  us  to  supply 
the  navy  of  the  Pacific  with  bread,  beef,  pork,  fish,  etc.,  we 
would  thereby  be  much  improved  in  our  condition.  Thi** 
might,  and  perhaps  ought  to  be  done,  in  view  of  the  encour 
agemenls  held  out  for  our  people  to  emigrate  to  this  country. 
.Should  it  not  be  convenient  for  our  ships  of  war  to  conu^  t«» 
the  Columbia  for  such  supplies,  th(»y  could  b(;  .shij)pid  to 
the  Sai\dwich  Islands,  if  required.  IJut  more  of  this  another 
time. 

Having  just  taken  the  tour  of  the  colony  for  the  purpose 
of  attending  the  courts  and  visiting  the  schools,  it  alTords  me 
pleasure  to  say  I  felt  amply  rewai  led.    I  found  throughout 
health,  cheerfulness,  and  prosperity,  and  certainly  most  sur- 
prising improvements  for  the  t;bort  time   since    the  settler? 
commenced.     The  decorum  of  the  courts  I  have  .spoken  of. 
and  now  have  only  to  speak  of  the  schools  and  Indians,  and 
I  am  done  ;  fearing  I  have  ;ilready  wearied  your  patience. 
For  the  want  of  means,  the  Methodist  manual  labor  Indian 
school  has  lately  broken  up,  and  this  is  now  occupied  as  a 
boardinsr    school  for  white  children    of  both   se.ves.     The 
school  is  yet  small,  but  well  conducted,  and  promises  useful- 
ness to  the  colony.     The  k«''.oo1  at  the  falls  of  the  Willamette 
and  Fullatinc  plains,  and  likewise  the  one  under  the  direc 
tion  of  the  Rev.  Mr.   Blanchcttc!,  Catholic  clergyman,  are 
all  small — numbering  from  fifteen  to  thirty  only  ;  but  are 
all  well  kept  and  doing  good.     I  feel  solicitous  on  this  sub- 
ject, and  am  saying  and  doing  what  I  can  to  cncouiog*' 


..•'• 

f 


I  '^ 'fV 


.•^so 


TEN    YEARS   IN'    OREGON 


(.'ductilion,  but,  like  all  oihov  new  rountric?,  the  people  nrcfl 
and  require  their  children  much  at  home. 

Since  the  uniiappy  aflair  of  last  spring,  the  Indians  have 
been  unusually  quiet,  and  the  summer  hae  been  spent  witliout 
alarm.  I  sent  my  interpreter,  ^Nlr.  Lee,  to  the  Vvalhuvallas 
hix  weeks  since,  to  m;ike  pnme  presents  to  the  chiofri,  ns  n 
safe  conduct  to  the  emigrants  down  to  tliir,  place.  Ilis  reply 
I  transmit,  I  addressed  a  lire  io  ^Ir.  J.  Vk  Littlejohn,  who 
's  just  down  from  there,  and  received  the  annex  ;d  '"oply. 
All  other  statements  are  con'oborative  : 

Willnmcttc,  November  ],  1844. 

Dkau  Sill — It  is  witii  (lie  utmost  pleasure  I  iindertake  to 
ij;.ve  vou  what  iiift)rmatlon  I  i)m  able  to  do,  I  have  resided 
with  the  missionaries^  of  the  American  board  for  two  years 
past ;  T  have  known  their  hearts,  and  am  well  acquainted 
with  all  tlicy  have  done.  1  lieir  inlluence  among  the  Indians 
i.s  by  no  means  small,  or  their  efforts  vain,  as  their  condition 
is  very  much  improved,  both  in  a  spiritual  and  temporal 
point  of  view.  And,  de;^.r  sir,  your  eflorts  among  and  fo;' 
them  have  been  much  to  their  advant;igc,  and  at  the  same 
time  not  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  missionaries,  but  greatly 
to  increase  their  usefulness  among  them.  I  have  no  doubt 
you  have  labored  with  this  motive  in  view.  The  Indians  are 
Ixjconiing  civilized  as  fast  or  faster  than  any  tribes  concern- 
ing whom  I  am  informed.  Th(;ir  anxiety  for  cattle,  hogs, 
and  sheep,  is  very  great ;  leading  them  to  make  mo?-t  com- 
mendable efforts  to  obtain  them,  and  their  efforts  are  bv  no 
means  vain.  They  have  purchased  a  good  number  from 
those  who  are  emigrating  to  this  country,  by  exchanging 
tlieir  hoi«cs  for  cattle.  Thus,  while  their  horses  have  been 
very  useful  to  the  emigrants,  they  have  gratly  benefitted 


TEN  TEARS   IK    OREO  OK. 


337 


)ple  nrcd 


nns  liavf 
t  without 
ilia  wallas 
iefs,  as  a 
Uh  roply 
nhn,  who 
id  '-'.ply. 


1,1841. 

lertalie  to 
VQ  resided 
two  years 
icquainted 
10  Indians 
condition 
temporal 
(f  and  foi* 
the  same 
t  greatly 
no  doubt 
ndians  are 
conccru- 
ttlo,  hogs, 
TiO'="t  corn- 
are  bv  no 
ber  from 
»cchanging 
lavc  been 
b<:>nefittcfl 


themselves.  They  are  enlarging  their  farms  yearly — Ira- 
proving  much  in  fencing,  etc.  etc.  Quite  a  number  of  fami- 
lies are  enabled  to  live  from  what  they  raise  on  their  farms, 
the  milk  of  their  cows  and  their  beef.  There  is  perfect  qui- 
etness existing  between  them,  and  I  have  no  doubt  this  state 
of  things  will  continue  to  exist.  Many  things  interesting 
might  be  written,  but  time  does  not  allow  me  to  say  more 
at  present. 

I  am,  dear  sir,  yours  with  great  respect, 

J.  B.  LITTLEJOHN. 


Thus  far  the  Indians  have  kept  their  treaties  of  amity 
with  mc  astonishingly  well,  and  it  is  thought  we  now  have 
as  much  to  hope  as  fear  from  them,  if  we  succeed  in  keep- 
ing out  liquf  '•j  which,  by  the  grace  of  God,  not  a  few  of  us 
are  resolved  to  do,  though  we  do  not  pass  unopposed,  nor 
lilightly  opposed ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  that  most  salutary 
liquor  law,  and  the  hearty  co-operation  of  some  of  the  friends 
of  temperance,  with  your  agent,  liquor  would  have  already 
made  ruinous  havoc  among  us. 

The  Methodist  mission,  though  v>^e  have  not  agreed  on  all 
subjects,  have  behaved  very  properly  on  this.  And  to 
them,  in  connexion  with  the  honorable  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, will  the  colony  be  lastingly  indebted  for  their  com- 
mendable efforts. 

Since  my  first  arrival  I  have  not  received  a  line  from  the 

department  save  my  last  year's  report.     As  my  condition  is 

peculiar,  and  not  a  little  embarrassing,  I  should  feel  greatly 

obliged  for  an  expression,  and  further  instruction  from  the 

department.     I  have  had,  as  may  well  be  judged,  much  to 

•contend  with,  in  the  midst  of  lawless  Indians  of  so  many 

different  tribes,  and  lawless  whites  of  so  many  nations — 

22 


i-. 


^: 


.■■» 


ii 


*•■*■■*' 


I- 


•M  ■ 


*.' 


I 


t       ■. 


'■fe 


838 


TEN   YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


some  bred  upon  old  whaleships,  others  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  hundreds  on  the  frontiers  of  Missouri.  I  have  at 
times  waded  in  deep  perplexing  difficulties,  but  am  now 
greatly  relieved  by  the  colonial  government,  which  as  yet 
is  well  administered.  By  reason  of  this  I  now  have  less  to  do,, 
and  sail  in  smoother  seas,  meeting  with  less  opposition  than 
heretofore — my  proper  official  relations  towards  the  whiteji! 
and  Indians  being  better  understood. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  ob't  and 
humble  servant, 

E.  WHITE, 
Sub-Agent  Indian  Aflfairs,  W.  11.  M, 
Hon.  J.  M.  Porter, 

Secretary  of  War,  Washington. 


Oregon  City,  March  4,  1845. 
Dr.  E.  White: 

Sir — In  compliance  with  the  request  you  made  of  me,  that 
I  should  notice  and  communicate  to  you  whatever,  I  might 
deem  of  interest  during  my  visit,  in  your  employ,  to  the  va- 
rious Indian  tribes  east  of  the  Cascade  mountains,  bearing  to 
them  presents  with  admonitions  and  advice  from  you  in  order 
to  secure  the  safety  and  peace  of  the  emigr?  nts  in  their  pas- 
sage through  their  country, 

The  following  is  submitted  : 

First.  The  Nez  Perces.  Your  acquaintance  with  thia 
promising  people  renders  it  unnecessary  for  me  to  speak  of 
their  general  character.  I  would  simply  remark,  that  their 
anxieties  to  become  a  civilized  and  literary  nation,  have  suf 
fered  no  abatement  since  I  left  them  ia  March  last,  after  hav- 
ing spent  the  winter  with  them  most  pleasantly,  as  teapher, 
in  the  employ  of  Rev.  H.  H.  Spalding,  missionary.     EliiR, 


(if/:' 


:>*• 


TKN   YE  VR8   IN    OREGOK. 


339 


Moun- 
have  at 
m  novr 

as  yet 
is  to  do,, 
on  than 
I  whites 

)b't  and 


R.  M. 


I,  1845. 

me,  that 
I  might 

the  va- 
earing  to 

in  order 
iieir  pas- 


vith  thia 
speak  of 
lat  their 
ave  suf 
■ter  hav- 
teapher, 
,     EUiR, 


with  most  of  the  chiefs,  was  absent,  having  gone  to  meet 
the  emigrants,  tVen  in  the  vicinity  of  fort  Boisic,  with  a  view 
to  furnish  them  provisions,  and  trade  them  horses  for  catt/e. 
You  are  aware  of  their  eagerness  to  obtain  domestic  stock, 
and  farming  utensils,  which  I  regard  as  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting facts  connected  with  Indian  affairs  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  Avarice  is  doubtless  the  ruling  passion 
of  most  Indians,  and  forms  a  capital  upon  which  those  enga- 
ged in  Indian  affairs  may  operate  for  good  or  evil.  With  the 
Nez  Perces,  it  has  thus  far,  been  turned  to  good  account,  ef- 
fecting results  as  beneficial  to  the  whites  and  more  salutary 
to  the  natives  themselves,  on  this  side  the  mountains,  than 
has  been  effected  on  the  other  side  by  military  force.  Such 
is  the  prevalence  of  this  "  love  of  gain"  amongst  the  Indi- 
ans, that  all  efforts  to  control  them  by  motives  held  out  to 
any  ocher  passion,  must  prove  ineffectual,  at  least,  while  we 
are  unable  to  awe  them  by  martial  parade. 

The  individual  difficulties  existing  between  James,  Timo- 
thy, and  others,  in  relation  to  their  claims  on  the  valley,  about 
the  Clearwater  mission,  are,  for  the  time,  put  to  rest  by  the 
promise  that  you  will  visit  th-  oon,  and  have  the  matter 
properly  adjusted.  Their  crops  this  year  iiuve  been  abun 
dant,  and  they  have  furnished  the  emigrants  large  suf)plie8 
of  provisions,  which  I  am  happy  to  say,  were  bartered  in 
good  faith,  and  the  trade  conducted  with  much  amity  an  1 
good  feeling  on  both  sides,  while  I  have  to  regret  'lat  Ellis 
and  his  people  were  unable  to  procure  cattle  to  any  extent, 
worthy  of  notice.  The  presents  were  received,  and  the  ad- 
vice heard  with  a  most  respectful  attention. 

Second.  The  Kkyuses  are  also  manifesting  a  spirit  of 
enterprise,  highly  commendable.  They  too,  have  raised 
much  grain  and  potatoes,  and  are  trading  freely  with  the 


:iM: 


*■■■■ 


r 


If 


1 

t'% 

1 

'    ^  i 

1 

•• 

i 

•'.. ' 

%^ 


M   ^ 


v: 


Y 


\'\-' 


mw 


!(. 


840 


TXir  TEARS   IN    OHEGOir. 


emigrants.  A  number  of  their  chiefs  and  principal  men 
were  absent  at  the  time,  having  gone  in  company  with  a 
party  of  WallaTrallas,  to  California,  with  horses  to  trade  for 
cattle.  They  have  since  returned,  and  I  sincerely  regret  to 
learn  the  failure  of  this,  their  first  expedition  of  the  kind. 
The  Spaniards,  and  other  whites,  treated  them  badly  ;  mur- 
dered one  of  the  most  pomising  young  men  of  the  Walla- 
wallas,  and  the  party  returned  without  effecting  the  object 
of  their  trip.  What  influence  this  affair  will  have  upon  the 
conduct  of  these  two  tribes  in  reference  to  the  next  emigra- 
tion passing  through  their  countries,  time  alone  must  deter- 
mine. 

The  lawless  bands  along  the  river,  from  fort  Wallawalla, 
to  the  Dalles,  are  still  troublesome  to  emigrants  ;  and  the  em- 
igrants are  still  very  imprudent  in  breaking  off  into  small 
parties,  just  when  they  should  remain  united.  The  Indians 
are  tempted  by  the  unguarded  and  defenceless  state  of  the 
emigrants,  and  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity,  to  grat- 
ify their  cupidity.  Here  allow  me  to  suggest  a  thought. 
These  robbers  furnish  us  a  true  miniature  likeness  of  the 
whole  IndiEHi  population,  whenever  they  fail  to  obtain  such 
things  as  they  wish  in  exchange  for  such  as  they  have  to 
give.  These  are  robbers  now,  because  they  have  nothing  to 
give  ;  all  others  will  be  robbers  when,  with  what  they  have 
to  give,  they  cannot  procure  what  they  wish.  I  am  satis- 
fied of  the  Gorrectn<'ss  of  iiiis  conclusion,  from  all  that  I  have 
witnessed  of  Indian  character,  even  among  the  praiseworthy 
N^ez  Perccs.  And  should  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  withhold  her  protection  from  her  subjects  in  Oregon, 
they  witi  be  under  the  necessity  of  entering  into  treaty  stip- 
ulations with  the  Indians,  in  violation  of  the  laws  of  the 


TEN  YEARS   IN   ORKGON. 


341 


United  States,  as  preferable  to  a  resort  to  force  of  arms. 
Hitherto,  the  emigrants  have  had  no  serious  difficulty  in  pas- 
sing through  the  territory  of  these  tribes ;  but  that  their 
passage  is  becoming  more  and  more  a  subjt  ^t  of  interest  to 
the  Indians,  is  abundantly  manifest.  They  collect  about  the 
road  from  every  part  of  the  country,  and  have  looked  on 
with  amazement ;  but  the  novelty  of  the  scene  is  fast  loosing 
its  power  to  hold  in  check  their  baser  passions.  The  next 
emigration  will  in  all  probability,  call  forth  developments  of 
Indian  character,  which  have  been  almost  denied  an  exist- 
ence amongst  these  people.  Indeed,  sir,  had  yoa  not  taken 
the  precaution  to  conciliate  their  good  feelings  and  friend- 
ship towards  the  whites,  just  at  the  time  they  were  meeting 
each  other,  it  is  to  be  doubted  whether  ther  j  had  not  been 
some  serious  difficulties.  Individuals  on  laoth  sides  have 
been  mutually  provoked  and  exasperated  during  the  passage 
of  each  emigration,  and  these  cases  are  constantly  multiply- 
ing. Much  prudence  is  required  on  the  part  of  the  whites, 
and  unfortunately,  they  have  very  little  by  the  time  they 
reach  the  Columbia  valley.  Some  of  the  late  emigrants, 
loosing  their  horses,  and  very  naturally  supposing  them  sto- 
len by  the  Indians,  went  to  the  bands  of  horses  owned  by 
the  Indians  and  took  as  many  as  they  wished^ 

You  are  too  well  acquainted  with  Indians  to  suppose  that 
fiuch  a  course  can  be  persisted  in  without  producing  seriouB 
results.  I  am  aware  that  this  is  looking  at  the  dark  side  ; 
but,  sir,  perhaps  it  is  wisdom  to  look  at  that  side  when  it  i« 
more  than  half  turned  towards  us,  if,  by  looking,  we  can 
find  some  way  to  turn  it  back  again.  I  look  to  Ellis,  and 
the  speedy  action  of  the  general  government  of  the  United 
States,  as  the  brightest  features  in  the  prospect  now  before 


•*'. 


■i:  -' 


S42 


TRK   TEARS   IK    ORKGOir. 


^•fe 


US.     Your  knowledge  of  my  situation  and   circumstances^ 
render  any  apology  unnecessary  for  this  imperfect  scroll. 

I  remain  your  humble  servant, 

H.  A.  O.  LEE, 
Dr.  E.  Whitb, 

Sub-agent  Indian  affairs,  W.  R.  M. 


Fallatine  Plains,  Nov.  2,  1844. 

Dear  Sir — Your  communication  of  the  20th  October, 
1 844,  was  duly  received,  and  a  press  of  business  has  delayed 
my  reply  till  now. 

In  relation  to  the  subject  of  enquiry  contained  in  your 
letter — being  the  natural  resources  of  Oregon — I  can  truly 
saj  that  I  entertain  a  very  high  opinion  of  the  great  and  de- 
cided advantages  bestowed  by  nature  upon  this  most  inter- 
esting and  beautiful  portion  of  our  globe. 

Our  facilities  for  commercial  enterprise  are  most  decided, 
as  the  rapidly  increasing  commerce  of  the  great  Pacific  lies 
at  our  very  door.  The  climate  of  this  country  is  more  equa- 
ble, subject  to  fewer  extremes  than  any,  perhaps,  in  the 
world.  I  have  been  here  about  one  year,  and  have  found  it. 
most  delightful,  and  I  can  tmly  say  that  it  is  the  most 
healthy  country  I  have  ever  lived  in.  During  the  present 
year,  I  have  scarcely  heard  of  a  case  of  fever  in  the  whole 
country.  The  timber  of  Oregon  is  indeed  most  superior, 
and  constitutes  a  large  portion  of  its  wealth  ;  and  we  have 
not  only  the  tallest,  finest  timber  in  the  world,  but  we  have 
every  where  water  power  to  any  desirable  extent,  suitable 
for  propelling  all  kinds  of  machinery. 

The  soil  of  this  country  is  most  excellent,  and  can  be  pre- 
pared and  cultivated  with  less  labor  than  that  of  any  other 
country.     Wheat  is  the  great  staple  of  the  world  :  and  as  a 


TTCN   TBARb    rv    OREGON. 


348 


wheat-growing  country,  this  ranks  in  the  very  first  chiss. 
The  crop  is  not  only  of  the  best  quality,  but  is  always  large  •' 
and  there  is  no  such  occurrence  as  a  failure  in  the  wheat 
crop.  For  potatoes,  melons,  turnips,  and  garden  vegetables 
generally,  our  soil  is  superior.  Indian  corn  does  not  succeed 
well,  and  in  fact  we  have  no  use  for  it,  as  our  cattle  live  all 
the  year  upon  the  natural  pastures  of  the  country.  Since  I 
have  been  here,  I  have  myself  been  engaged  in  farming  oc- 
cupations, and  I  have  been  astonished  at  the  very  small 
amount  of  labor  required  to  cultivate  a  farm.  Potatoes  are 
planted,  and  nothing  more  is  done  to  them  until  they  are 
ready  for  digging  ;  when  they  are  not  dug,  but  generally 
turned  up  with  the  plow.  Peas  are  sown  broad-cast,  like 
wheat,  and  are  neither  staked  nor  cultivated,  and  produce  in 
great  abundance.  Plowing  is  done  here  from  the  month 
of  September  until  July,  and  wh'^tvi,  is  sown  from  October 
to  May  ;  and  potatoes  are  planted  in  March,  April,  and  May. 
A  team  of  two  horses,  with  a  very  light,  easy  plow,  can 
break  prairie  land  ;  but  a  team  of  two  yoke  of  oxen  is  most 
generally  used.  I  am  informed  that  timothy,  clover,  and 
blue  grass  all  grow  well  in  the  soil  of  Oregon. 

For  pasturage  this  country  is  pre-eminent.  Horses,  cattle, 
and  sheep  require  neither  feed  nor  shelter,  and  keep  fat  all 
the  year  round.  Hogs  are  raised  here  with  partial  feeding, 
and  pork  is  generally  fattened  upon  wheat,  and  finer  pork  I 
never  saw  anywhere. 

I  omitted  to  mention  in  its  appropriate  place  that  our  har- 
vesting commences  about  the  20th  of  July,  and  continues 
throughout  the  month  of  August ;  and  during  the  present 
year  we  had  no  rain  from  about  the  1st  of  July  to  the  15th 
October,  so  that  we  had  the  finest  weather  for  saving  our 
drops  imaginable. 


■:>:=A. 


;  -jp  . 


'V: 


'.      ? 


.■  li 


■ 


S44 


TKN    TEARS    IN    OREGON. 


One  thing  that  strikes  the  beholder  of  this  country  with 
greatest  force,  is  the  unsurpassable  beauty  of  its  scenery. 
We  have  snow-clad  mountains,  beautiful  valleys,  pure,  rapid 
streams  running  over  pebbly  beds,  ^yith  numerous  cascade* 
and  waterfalls,  and  trees  of  superior  grandeur  and  beauty. 

The  government  of  Oregon  his  grown  up  from  necessity ; 
and  perhaps  no  new  organization  has  been  adopted  and  sus- 
tained with  such  unanimity  and  good-order.  Every  circum- 
stance has  tended  to  strengthen  it.  I  attended  the  last  term 
of  the  circuit  courts  in  most  of  the  counties,  and  I  found 
great  respect  shown  to  judicial  authority  every  where  ;  and 
did  not  see  a  solitary  drunken  juryman,  or  witness,  or  spec- 
tator. So  much  industry,  good  order,  and  sobriety,  I  have 
never  observed  in  any  community.  Our  population  seem  to 
be  exceedingly  enterprising,  and  are  making  rapid  progresi 
to  comfort  and  wealth.  As  yet,  we  have  had  no  murders, 
no  robberies,  thefts,  or  felonies  of  any  kind,  except  one  as- 
sault with  intent  to  kill.  Our  grand  jurors  have  exhibited 
very  laudable  assiduity  in  discharging  their  duties,  and  crim- 
inals here  will  meet  with  certain  and  prompt  punishment. 

Nature  has  displayed  here  her  moL  .nagnificent  powers,  and 
our  country  has  its  full  share  of  natural  advantages.  Our 
prospects  are  most  brilliant.  If  we  can  keep  out  intoxica- 
tion, and  we  will  do  it,  half  a  century  will  not  roll  away  be- 
fore there  will  exist  in  Oregon  one  of  the  most  industrious, 
virtuous,  free,  and  commercial  nations  in  the  world. 

I  have  already  protracted  this  communication  beyond  it*; 
appropriate  length,  and  will  now  close  it  by  subscribing 
myself, 

Yours,  etc. 

PETER  H.  BURNETT. 

Dr.  E.  White. 


TEK  YEARS   IN    OBEOON. 


su 


Whereas  the  people  of  Oregon,  now  occupying  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  interesting  portions  of  the  globe,  are 
placed  in  the  most  critical  and  responsible  position  ever  filled 
by  men,  owing,  as  they  do,  important  duties'  to  themselvea, 
to  their  country,  to  posterity,  and  to  mankind,  as  the  foun- 
ders of  a  new  government  and  a  young  nation  ;  and  whcrea* 
the  introduction,  distillation,  or  sale  of  ardent  spirits,  under 
the  circumstances  in  which  we  are  placed,  would  bring 
withering  ruin  upon  the  prosperity  and  prospects  of  this 
interesting  and  rising  community,  by  involving  us  in  idle  and 
dissolute  habits,  inviting  hither  swarms  of  the  dissipated  in- 
habtants  of  other  countries,  checking  emigration,  destroying 
the  industry  of  the  country,  bringing  upon  us  the  swarms  of 
savages  now  in  our  midst,  interrupting  the  orderly  and 
peaceable  administration  of  justice,  and  in  a  word  producing 
and  perpetuating  increasing  and  untold  miseries  that  no  mind 
can  rightly  estimate :  therefore, 


Be  it  enacted  hyt  the  Legislative  Committee  of  Oregon,  au 

follows: 

Article  I. 

Sec.  1.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  import  or  in- 
troduce any  ardent  spirits  into  Oregon,  with  intent  to  sell, 
barter,  or  trade  the  same,  and  shall  offer  the  same  for  sale, 
barter,  or  trade,  he  shall  be  fined  the  sum  of  fifty  dollars  for 
each  and  every  such  offence,  which  may  be  recovered  by  ia- 
dictment  or  by  trial  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  without 
the  form  of  pleading. 

Sec.  2.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  sell,  barter, 
or  trade  any  ardent  spirits  of  any  kind  whatever,  directly  or 
indirectly,  to  any  person  in  Oregon,  he  shall  forfeit  and  pay 


S46 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREOOW. 


the  sum  of  twenty  dollars  for  cixcli  and  every  such  sale, 
barter,  or  trade,  to  be  recovered  by  indictment  in  the  circuit 
court,  or  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  without  the  form  of 
pleading. 

Sec.  3.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  establish  or 
carry  on  a  manufactory  or  distillery  of  ardent  spirits  in  Or- 
egon, he  shall  be  subject  to  be  indicted  before  the  circuit 
court  as  for  a  nuisance ;  and  if  convicted,  he  shall  be  fined 
the  sum  of  one  hundred  dollars,  and  the  court  shall  issue 
an  order  to  the  sheriff,  directing  him  to  seize  and  destroy 
the  distilling  apparatus,  which  order  the  sheriff  shall  exe- 
cute. 

Sec.  4.  That  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  all  sheriffs,  judges, 
justices,  constables,  and  other  officers,  when  they  have  rea- 
son to  believe  that  this  act  has  been  violated,  to  give  notice 
thereof  to  some  justice  of  the  peace,  or  judge  of  a  court, 
who  shall  immediately  issue  his  warrant  and  cause  the  of- 
fending party  to  be  arrested,  and,  if  such  officer  has  juris- 
diction to  try  such  case,  shall  proceed  to  try  such  offender 
^  ithout  delay,  and  give  judgement  accordingly  ;  but,  if  such 
officer  have  not  jurisdiction  to  try  the  ctise,  he  shall,  if  the 
party  be  guilty,  bind  him  over  to  appear  before  the  next  cir- 
cuit court  of  the  proper  county. 

Sec.  5.  That  all  sales,  barters,  or  trades,  made  under 
color  of  gifts  or  otherwise,  with  an  intention  to  evade  this 
act,  shall  be  deemed  a  violation  of  the  same ;  and  all  fines 
and  penalties  recovered  under  this  act  shall  go  into  the  gen- 
eral treasury  ;  and  all  officers  receiving  the  same  shall  pay 
over  to  the  sheriff,  whose  duty  it  ^hail  be  to  pay  the  same 
into  the  treasury. 

Sec.  6.     That  this  act  shall  not  be  so  construed  as  to 


TBM    TEARS    IN   OREGON. 


347 


ch  sale, 
e  circuit 
form  of 

iblish  or 
ts  in  Or- 
ic  circuit 
be  fined 
all  issue 
destroy 
lall  exe- 

,  judges, 
lave  rea- 
ve notice 

a  court, 
5  the  of- 
las  juris- 

offender 
t,  if  such 
11,  if  the 
1  next  cir- 

e  under 
vade  this 
all  fines 
the  gen- 
hall  pay 
he  sanae 

ed  as  to 


prevent  any  practicing  physician  from  selling  such  liquors 
for  medicine,  not  to  exceed  one  gallon  at  one  time. 

Skc  7.  That  the  clerk  shall  make  out  a  copy  of  this 
act,  and  put  the  same  up  in  Oregon  City  as  soon  as  practi- 
cable. 

Skc.  8.  That  this  act  shall  take  effect  within  sixty  days 
from  and  after  its  passage. 

Passed  24th  June,  1844. 

M.  M.  McARVER,  Speaker. 

Attest — J.  E.  Long,  Clerk. 


An  Act  to  provide  for  ways  and  means. 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  Legislative  Committee  of  Oregon  as 

follows: 

Article   1. 

Sec.  1.  That  in  order  to  raise  a  revenue  for  the  pur- 
pose of  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  government,  there 
shall  be  levied  and  collected  a  tax  of  one-eighth  of  one  per 
cent,  upon  the  following  property,  at  a  fair  valuation,  to- 
wit: — All  merchandise  brought  into  this  country  for  sale; 
improvements  in  town  lots ;  mills,  pleasure  carriages,  clocks, 
watches,  horses,  mules,  cattle,  and  hogs. 

Sec.  2.  All  mule  citizens  over  the  age  of  twenty-one 
years,  being  a  descendant  of  a  white  man,  shall  be  subject 
to  pay  a  poll  tax  of  fifty  cents. 

Sec.  3.  That  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  collector  of  rev- 
enue to  require  of  each  and  every  merchant  of  Oregon  to 
give  him  a  statement  of  the  amount  of  all  merchandise  on 
hand,  in  writing,  to  be  stated  upon  oath  or  affirmation,  which 
oath  or  affirmation  the  collector  shall  administer;  and  said  col- 
lector shall  collect  and  receipt  for  the  tax  upon  such  mer- 


,■■•,.■•;• 


i 


i'  ^i/. 

if ..  r, 


■f. 


),* 


i|' 


■■'•Si 


348 


TBIV    TBARS   IN   OREOON. 


chundlse,  which  receipt  shall  serve  snid  merchant  for  it 
license  for  the  next  year,  commencing  from  the  time  given 
And  that  when  a  merchant  shall  wish  to  renew  his  license, 
he  shall  give  a  simihir  statement  of  all  merchandise  received 
by  him  for  sale  in  the  preceding  twelve  months,  and  thf 
collector  shall  only  require  him  to  pay  tax  upon  the  amount 
of  said  imports. 

•  Skc.  4.  That  any  person  refusing  to  pay  tax  as  in  thi^ 
act  required,  shall  have  no  benefit  of  the  laws  of  Oregon, 
and  shall  bo  disqualified  from  voting  at  any  election  in  this 
country. 

Skc.  5.  That  the  sheriff  shall  serve  as  ex  officio  collec 
tor  of  the  revenue,  for  which  he  shall  receive,  as  a  compen 
sation  for  his  services,  tea  per  cent,  upon  all  moneys  col 
lee  ted  as  revenue. 

Sec.  0.  That  the  sheriff,  before  entering  upon  his  duties 
as  collector  of  the  revenue,  shall  enter  into  bond,  with  two 
or  more  good  and  sufficient  securities,  in  a  sura  not  less  than 
five  nor  more  than  ten  thousand  dollars,  to  be  approved  iij 
the  executive,  which  approval  shall  be  written  upon  the 
back  of  said  bond,  and  the  said  collector's  bond  shall  be  filed 
in  the  office  of  the  clerk  of  the  court. 

Sec.  7.  That  the  collector  shall  pay  over  to  the  treasu- 
ry, on  the  first  Monday  in  each  and  every  month  in  the  year, 
all  moneys  that  may  be  in  his  hands,  and  get  the  treasurer'* 
receipt  therefor. 

Sec.  8.  That  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  tribunal  trans- 
acting county  business,  to  require  the  collector  to  settle  with 
said  court  at  each  and  every  regular  term  of  said  court  in 
Klackamas  county. 

Sec.  9.     The  collector  of  the  revenue  shall  make  full  pay 


TKN   TKAIlfl    IN    OREGON. 


340 


ant  for  i» 
mc  pfiven 
lis  license, 
e  received 
3,  and  th*' 
le  amount 

as  in  thib 
f  Oregon, 
ion  in  thifi 

:io  coUcc 
a  com  pen 
cneys  col 

his  duties 
,  with  two 
t  less  than 
proved  hj 

upon  the 
all  be  filed 

he  treasu-  , 
n  the  year, 
reasurerV 

inal  trans- 
settle  with 
i  court  in 

:e  full  pay 


raent  into  the  trepsury  on  or  before  the  first  Monday  in  De- 
•)cmbor  in  each  year. 

Sec.   10.     The  revenue  of  Oregon  shall   be   colloctrd  in 
specie  or  available  orders  on  solvent  merchants  in  Oregon. 

8kc.   1 1.     That  all  acts  and  parts  of  acts  contrary  to  this 
!f.ct  be,  and  the  same  are  hereby  repealed. 

Skc.  12.     This  act  to  take  effect  from  and  after  its  pao^ 
tage. 

M.  M.  McARVER,  Speaker. 

Attest — J.  E,  Long,  Hecretary. 


To  the  citizens  of  Oregon : 

Gentlemen — Wc  take  the  liberty  of  informing  you  that 
»  person  named  "  Henry  Williamson,"  some  time  about  the 
15th  of  February,  this  year,  took  the  liberty  of  erecting  on 
the  premises  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  a  few  logs,  in 
the  form  u  hut,  and  wrote  a  notice  upon  an  adjoining  tree, 
that  he  had  taken  a  section  of  land  there.  This  wa.s  done 
without  our  knowledge  or  consent,  within  a  few  hundied 
yards  of  a  house  occupied  by  one  of  the  Hudson's  Kay  Com- 
pany's servants,  and  within  the  limits  of  their  improvements. 
As  soon  as  we  were  infomied  of  that  proceeding,  wc  had 
the  tree  cut  down  and  the  logs  removed,  in  order  to  prevent 
any  future  difFiculty  with  a  person  who  had  in  a  manner  so 
unjustifiable,  intruded  on  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
premises. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  made  their  settlement  at 
tort  Vanc-fver,  under  the  authority  of  a  license  from  the 
British  government,  in  conformity  with  the  provisions  of  the 
treaty  between  Great  Britain  and  tho  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica, which  gives  them  the  righ:  of  occupying  as  much  land 
as  they  require  for  the  operations  of  their  business. 


n 


350 


TKW    YEARS    IN  OREGON, 


'It  ji 


On  the  faith  of  that  treaty,  they  have  made  a  r\  ttlement 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Cokimbia  river  ;  they  have  opened 
rouds  and  made  other  improvements  at  a  great  outlay  of 
capital  :  they  have  held  unmolested  possession  of  their  im 
provements  for  many  years,  unquestioned  by  the  public  oflfi- 
cers  of  either  government,  who  have,  since  the  existence  of 
their  seitlenients  repeatedly  visited  it ;  they  have  carried  on 
business  with  manifest  advantage  tc  the  country  ;  they  have 
given  the  protection  of  their  influence  over  the  native  bribes 
to  every  person  who  required  it,  without  distinction  of  na 
tlon  or  party ;  and  they  have  afforded  every  assistance  in 
their  power  towards  developing  the  resources  of  the  country 
and  promoting  the  industry  of  its  inhabitants. 

The  tract  of  land  they  occupy,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Columbia  river,  is  indispensable  to  them  as  a  range  for  their 
flocks  and  herds,  hvA,  otherwise  of  little  value,  being  in  part 
inundiited  every  summer  by  the  waters  of  the  Columbia,  and 
in  part  unimproveable  forest  land. 

Occupying  the  said  tract  of  land  by  the  authority  of  law. 
and  under  *he  protection  of  the  British  government,  they 
cannot  submit  to  the  infringement  of  rights  so  acquired  ;  and 
we,  as  their  representatives,  are  bound  to  use  every  means 
sanctioned  by  the  law  which  governs  us  against  all  trespass- 
ers on  their  premises,  until  otherwise  directed  by  orders  em- 
anating from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Permit  us  to  assure  you,  gentlemen,  that  it  is  our  earnest 
wish  to  maintain  a  good  understanding,  and  to  live  on  friendly 
terms  with  every  person  in  the  country.     We  entertain  the 
highest  respect  for  the  provisional  organization;  and  knew 
ir.g  the  good  it  has  effected,  as  well  as  the  evil  it  has  pre 
vented,  we  wish  it  every  success,  and  hope,  as  we  desire,  to 


hii  ^■ 


^m 


T8M   TBARS  IN    OREGON. 


351 


V  ttlement 
re  oponed 
outlay  of 
their  ira 
ublic  offi- 
istence  of 
sarried  on 
they  h&.\e 
tive  iribes 
on  of  na 
istance  in 
le  country 

nk  of  the 
3  for  their 
\g  in  part 
mbia,  and 

ty  of  law. 
ent,  they 
ired ;  and 
ry  means 

trespass- 
rders  em- 
ir earnest 
n  friendly 
irtain  th<i 
nd  knew 

lias  pre 
desire,  to 


continue  to  live  in  the  exercise  and  interchange  of  good  offi- 
ces with  the  framers  of  that  useful  institution. 

The  advantages  of  peace  and  harmony,  of  the  support 
and  maintenance  of  establijihed  rights,  must  bo  as  evoident 
to  every  member  of  the  community  as  the  evils  flowing  from 
a  state  of  lawless  misrule. 

With  these  considerations  before  us,  we  feel  confident  that 
every  person  who  desires  the  well-being  of  the  country,  who 
wishes  to  see  it  prosperous  and  flourishing,  will  uriite  in  put- 
ting down  every  course  which  may  have  a  tendency  to  dis- 
turb the  public  peace,  and  in  pfomoting  by  every  means  in 
their  power  the  cause  of  justice,  obedience  to  the  laws,  and 
mutual  accommodation. 

With  a  fervent  prayer  to  the  Divine  bestower  of  all  good 
for  the  happiness  and  prosperity  of  every  individual  in  the 
country,  we  have  the  honor  to  be,  gentlemen,  your  obedi 
ent  servants, 

JOHN  McLaughlin, 

JAMES  DOUGLASS. 


Vancouver,  March  18,  1845. 
Gentlemen — I  am  sorry  to  inform  you  tlua  Mr.  William- 
son is  surveying  a  piece  of  land  occupied  by  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  alongside  of  this  establishment,  with  a  view 
of  taking  it  as  a  claim ;  and  as  he  is  an  American  citizen,  I 
feel  bound,  as  a  matter  of  courtesy,  to  make  the  same  known 
to  you,  trusting  that  you  will  feel  justified  in  taking  meas 
ures  ^o  have  him  removed  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Compa 
ny's  premises,  in  order  that  the  unanimity  now  happily  sub- 
sisting between  the  American  citizens  and  Bri'.ish  subjects 
residmg  la  this  country  may  not  be  disturbed  or  interrupted. 
I  beg  to  enclose  you  a  copy  of  an  address  to  the  citizen.'^  of 


J,:  : 


H.. 


i 


352 


TBN    YEARS    IN   OREGON. 


Oregon,  which  will  explain  to  you  our  situation,  and  the 
course  we  are  bound  to  pursue  in  the  event  of  your  declin- 
ing to  interfere. 

I  am,  gentlemen,  your  obedient  humble  servant, 

J.  McLaughlin. 

William  Bailed, 

OSUORNE    RuSSKLL, 

p.   G.  Stkwat,  Esqs. 

Executive  committee  of  Orejron. 


i' 

*          1       '■ 

.'               /'^ 

* 

tfm 


SI  - 


>    » 


Oregon  City,  March  21, 1845. 

^iR — We  beg  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letters 
— ^one  dated  11th  of  March,  and  the  other  12th  of  March — 
accompanied  with  an  address  to  the  citizens  of  Oregon. 

We  regret  to  hear  that  unwarranted  liberties  have  been 
taken  by  an  American  citizen  upon  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's premises,  and  it  affords  us  great  pleasure  to  learn  that 
the  offender,  after  due  reflection,  desisted  from  the  insolent 
and  rash  measure. 

As  American  citizens,  we  beg  leave  to  offer  you  and  your 
much  esteemed  colleague,  our  most  grateful  thanks  for  the 
kind  and  candid  manner  in  which  you  have  treated  this  mat- 
ter, as  we  are  aware  that  an  infringement  on  the  rights  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  this  country,  by  an  A'riGri- 
can  citizen,  is  a  breach  of  the  laws  of  the  United  States,  by 
setting  at  naught  her  most  solemn  treaties  with  Great 
Britain. 

As  representatives  of  the  citizens  of  Oregon,  we  beg  your 
acceptance  of  sincere  acknowledgements  of  the  obligations 
we  are  under  to  yourself  and  your  honorable  associate  for 
the  high  regard  you  have  manifested  for  the  authorities  of 
our  provisional  government,  and  the  special  anxiety  you  have 


TEN    TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


353 


and  the 
r  declin- 

[int, 


1, 1845. 
ir  letters 
March — 
yon. 

ave  been 
iay  Corn- 
earn  that 
i  insolent 

and  your 
>  for  the 
this  mat- 
rights  of 
1  V'lncri- 
tates,  by 
Great 

3Cg  your 
•ligations 
ciate  for 
jritics  of 
you  have 


ever  shown  for  our  peace  and  prosperity  ;  and  we  assure  you 
that  we  consider  ourselves  in  duty  bound  to  use  every  exer- 
tion in  our  power  to  put  down  every  cause  of  disturbance,  as 
well  as  to  promote  the  amicable  intercourse  and  kind  feelings 
hitherto  existing  between  ourselves  and  the  gentlemen  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  until  the  United  States  shall  ex- 
tend their  jurisdiction  ov^.:*  us,  and  our  authority  ceases  to 
exist. 

We  have  the  howor  to  be  sir, 

your  most  obedient  servants, 

OSBOBNE  RUSSELL, 
P.  G.  STEWART. 
John  McLaughlin,  Elsq. 


December  8, 1815. 
Memorial  of  the  Legislative  Commiilee  of  Oregon,  to  the 
honorable  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the 
United  States  of  America  in  Congress  assembled,  for  the 
establishment  of  a  territorial  government  tinder  the  pro- 
tection of  the  United  States  : 

Your  memoiialists  and  petitioners,  the  representatives  of 
the  people  of  Oregon,  for  themselves,  and  in  behalf  of  the 
citizens  of  the  United  States  residing  in  this  territory,  would 
respectfully  submit  to  the  consideration  of  your  honorable 
body  some  of  the  grievances  under  which  we  labor,  and 
pray  your  favorable  consideration  of  our  petition  for  their 
remedies. 

Without  dilating  upon  the  grcuL  importance  of  this  terri- 
tory as  an  appen:lage  to  the  federal  Union,  or  consuming 
your  valuable  time  in  repeating  to  you  the  oft-repeated  ac- 
count of  our  agricultural  and   commercial  advantages,  we 

would,  with  due  deference,  submit  to  your  seiious  consider- 
23 


-r.'-i 


m 


854 


TEN  TEARS   IN    OREGON. 


ation  our  peculiar  difficulties  as  occupants  of  this  territory. 
As  by  treaty  slipuliition:^  between  the  frovernments  of  tho 
United  States  and  Great  Britain,  this  territory  has  berome 
a  kind  of  neutral  ground,  \n  the  occupancy  of  which  the  cit- 
izens of  tlie  United  StJces  and  the  subjects  of  Great  Britain 
have  equal  rights,  and,  as  your  memorialists  humbly  con- 
ceive, ought  to  have  equal  j)rotcctii>n  — such  being  the  facts, 
the  population  of  the  territory,  though  promiscuously  inter- 
Bpersed,  is  composed  of  the  subjiicts  of  a  crown  and  the  cit- 
izens of  a  republic,  between  whom  no  common  bond  of  union 
exists. 

It  may  naturally  b<*  supposed  that,  in  the  absence  of  any 
provision  having  been  made  by  the  two  governments  to  pre- 
vent or  settle  any  such  occurrence,  conflicting  interests,  aided 
by  ancient  prejudices,  would  speedily  lead  to  results  the 
most  disastrous ;  particularly  when  it  is  considered  that  this 
mixed  population  exists  in  the  midst  of  numerous  and  Avar- 
liko  tribes  of  ^ndians,  to  whom  the  smallest  dissensions 
among  the  white  inhabitants  would  be  the  signal  to  let  loose 
upon  their  defenceless  families  all  the  horrors  of  savage 
warfare. 

To  prevent  a  calamity  so  much  to  be  dreaded,  the  well- 
disposed  inhabitants  of  this  territory  have  found  it  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  establish  a  pro\itional  and  temporary 
government,  embracing  all  free  male  citizent;,  and  whose 
executive,  legislative,  and  judicial  powers  should  be  equal  to 
all  the  exigencies  that  may  arise  among  themjielves,  not  pro- 
vided for  by  the  governments  to  which  they  owe  allegiance. 
And  we  are  most  happy  to  inform  your  honorable  body, 
that,  with  but  few  individual  exceptions,  the  utmost  harmony 
iind  good  will  have  been  the  result  of  this,  as  we  conceive, 
wise  and  judicious  measure  ;  and   the  British  subjects  and 


TSN  TBAR8   IN    OREGOK. 


355 


irritory, 

of  tho 

uerome 

the  eit' 

,  Btitaia 

)ly  con- 

le  facts, 

ly  inter- 

the  cit- 

of  union 

;  of  any 
5  to  pre- 
ts,  aided 
;uUs  the 
that  this 
nd  war- 
jocusions 
let  loose 


savage 


lie  well- 
it  abso- 
mporaiy 
d  whose 
equal  to 
not  pro- 
Irgiance. 
le  body, 
harmony 
conceive, 
ects  and 


American  citizens  vie  with  each  other  in  their  obedience  and 
respect  to  the  laws,  and  in  promoting  the  common  good  and 
general  welfare  of  Oregon. 

Although  such  has  been  the  result,  thus  far,  of  our  tem- 
porary union  of  interests ;  though  we,  the  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  have  had  no  cause  to  complain  either  of  ex- 
actions or  oppression  at  the  hands  of  the  subjects  of  Great 
Britain,  but,  on  tho  contrary,  it  is  but  just  to  say  that  their 
conduct  towards  us  has  been  most  friendly,  liberal,  and  phi- 
lanthropic ;  yet,  we  fear,  a  long  continuance  of  the  present 
state  of  things  is  not  to  be  expected ;  our  temporary  gov- 
ernment being  limited  in  its  efficiency,  and  crippled  in  its 
powers,  by  the  paramount  duty  we  owe  to  our  respective 
governments  ;  our  revenues  being  inadequate  to  its  support ; 
and  the  almost  total  absence,  apart  from  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  of  the  means  of  defence  against  the  Indians,  who, 
recent  occurrences  lead  us  to  fear,  entertain  hostile  feelings 
towards  the  people  of  the  United  States, 

Your  memorialists  would  further  inform  your  honorable 
body,  that  while  the  subjects  of  Great  Britain,  through  the 
agency  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  are  amply  provided 
with  all  the  munitions  of  war,  and  can  afford,  by  means  of 
their  numerous  fortifications,  ample  protection  for  themselves 
and  their  property,  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  are  scat- 
tered over  a  wide  extent  of  territory,  without  a  single  place 
of  refuge,  and  witliin  themselves  almost  entirely  destitute  of 
every  means  of  defence. 

Your  memorialists  would  further  crave  your  indulgence  to 
remark,  that  Great  Britain  has,  by  extending  her  criminal 
code  to  this  country,  guaranteed  to  every  British  sub- 
ject claiming  his  birthright  a  legitimate  trial  by  the  laws  of 
his  country.     We,  as  citizens  of  the  United  States,  having 


t,  J 


S50 


TXK   TEARS   IN    ORBOON. 


1 

I 


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{ 


'1  1. 


neither  the  military  protection  of  our  government,  nor  the 
extension  to  us  of  the  civil  laws  of  our  country,  are  forced 
to  the  enactment  and  execution  of  laws  which  are  not  author- 
ized, and,  for  aught  we  know,  never  will  be  sanctioned  by 
our  government. 

Your  memorialists  would  further  call  the  attention  of  your 
lionorable  body  to  the  fact,  that,  as  citizens  of  the  United 
4Btates,  we  labor  under  tiie  greatest  commercial  disadvanta- 
ges; we  have  neither  iil.ips  of  war  nor  of  commerce,  nor 
•ny  navigation  of  the  rivers  of  the  interior ;  and,  for  want 
of  adequate  protection,  no  private  capitalist  among  us  can 
establish  a  successful  competition  with  a  wealthy  and  pow- 
erful monopoly,  possessing  all  the  appliances  of  commerce, 
and  all  the  influence  over  the  natives,  by  an  early  establish- 
4nent  among  them.  We  are,  therefore,  dependant  for  a  mar- 
♦ket  for  a  large  and  increasing  surplus,  and  for  nearly  all  our 
supplies,  upon  a  single  company,  which  holds  the  market 
under  its  control. 

Your  memorialists,  with  a  view  to  remedy  the  grievances 
under  which  we  labor,  pray  the  national  congress — 

To  establish  a  distinct  territorial  government,  to  embrace 
Oregon  and  its  adjacent  seacoasts. 

We  pray — 

For  adequate  means  of  protection  from  the  numerous 
Indian  tribes  which  surround  us,  for  the  purchase  of  territo- 
ries which  they  arf,  willing  to  sell,  and  for  agents,  with  au- 
ihority  to  regulate  intercourse  between  whites  and  Indians, 
and  between  Indian  tribes. 

That  donations  of  land  may  be  made  according  to  the  in- 
ducements held  out  to  u-  by  the  passage  of  a  bill  through 
the  United  States  Senate,  at  the  second  session  of  the  twenty- 
seventh  congress,  entitled, 


TEN   TEARS   IN    OREGOK. 


36). 


"A  bill  to  authorize  the  adoption  of  measures  for  the  oo- 
cupation  and  settlement  of  the  territory  of  Oregon,  for  ea- 
tending  certain  portions  of  the  laws  of  the  United  States 
over  the  same,  and  for  other  purposes." 

That  navy  yards  and  marine  depots  may  be  established 
on  the  river  Columbia  and  upon  Pugett's  sound,  and  a  naval 
force,  adequate  to  our  protection,  be  kept  permanently  in 
the  adjacent  seas. 

That  a  public  mail  be  established  to  arrive  and  depart 
monthly  from  Oregon  city  and  Independence,  and  such 
other  local  mail  routes  be  established  as  are  essential  to  the 
Willamette  country  and  other  settlements. 

We  pray  for  the  establishment  of  such  commercial  regu- 
lations as  may  enable  us  to  trade  in  our  own  territory,  at 
least  on  an  equality  with  now  resident  foreigners. 

We  pray  that  adequate  military  protection  be  given  to 
emigrants  coming  to  us,  either  by  the  establishment  of  posts 
upon  the  route,  or  by  military  escort. 

And  we  pray  that,  in  the  event  you  deem  it  inexpedient 
as  a  measure,  or  contrary  to  the  spirit  of  existing  treaties,  to 
establish  a  territori  il  government  in  Oregon,  you  extend  to 
us  adequate  military  and  naval  protection,  so  as  to  place  us 
at  least  on  a  par  with  other  occupants  of  this  country. 

For  the  granting  of  which  your  meraoriali«fcs  will  ever 
pray. 

OSBORNE  RUSSELL,  Executive. 
PETER  G.  STEWART,  Executive. 
J.  W.  NESMITT,  Judge  of  circuit  court. 
M.  M.  McCARVER,  Speaker. 

Members  of  the  Legislative  Committee. — Jesse  Applegate, 
Medard  G.  Foisy,  W.  H.  Gray,  J.  M.  Garrison,  Abijah  Hen- 


%M 


*.■  '^ 


858 


TBN    TEARS  IN    OllEOO  K. 


H; 


^  ^t4  ,,■ 


ii* 


^  M  ''^  '. 


ai'fcv-- 


'!■ 

1  IB 

,         !■■ 

drick,  David  Hill,  11.  A.  G.  Lee,  Burton  Lee,  John  McCluro. 
Robert  Newell,  J.  W.  Smith.'lliicim  Straight. 
Done  at  Oregon  city,  June  28,  1845. 

Attest,  J.  E.  LONG,  Clerk. 


U.  S.  Senate,  May  21,  1846. 

Amended  Organic  Laws  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  cw  adopt- 
ed by  the  people  of  that  Territory  on  the  last  Saturday  of 
July,  1846,  with  proposed  amendments. 

The  legislative  committee  recommended  that  the  follow- 
hig  laws  be  adopted  : 

Article  \. 

:  Preamble.  We  the  people  of  Oregon  Territory,  for  pur- 
poses of  mutual  protection,  and  to  secure  peace  and  prosper- 
ity among  ourselves,  agree  to  adopt  the  following  laws  and 
regulations  until  such  times  as  the  United  States  of  America 
extend  their  jurisdiction  over  us. 

Be  it  therefore  enacted  by  the  fice  citizens  of  Oregon 
Territory,  That  the  said  territory,  for  the  purpoi=;es  of  tem- 
porary government,  be  divided  into  not  less  than  three  nor 
more  than  five  distiicts,  subject  to  be  extended  to  a  greater 
number  when  an  increase  of  population  shall  require. 

For  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  principles  of  civil  ap-d  reli- 
gious liberty  as  iKe  basis  of  all  laws  and  constitutions  of 
government  that  may  hercufter  be  adopted.  Be  it  enacted. 
That  the  following  articles  be  considered  articles  of  compact 
among  the  free  ciiizens  of  this  territory  : 

Skction  1.  No  person  demeaning  himself  in  a  peaceable 
or  orderly  manner  shall  ever  be  molested  upon  account  of 
his  mode  of  worship  or  religious  sentiments. 

8bo.  2.     The  inhabitants  of  said  territory  shall  always  be 


TBN   TKATIS   IN   ORKOON. 


359 


entitled  to  the  benefits  of  tlie  writ  of  liabcus  corpus  nnd  triiil 
by  jury;  of  ii  proportionate  rcprescntiUion  of  the  people  in  the 
legislature,  and  of  judicial  proceedings  according  to  tlio 
course  of  common  law :  all  persons  sliall  be  bailable,  unless 
for  capital  offences,  where  the  proof  shall  be  evident,  or  the 
presumption  great :  all  fines  shall  be  moderate,  and  no  cruel 
or  unusual  puni>hments  inflicted  :  no  man  shall  be  deprived 
of  his  libeity  but  by  the  judgement  of  his  peers,  or  the  law 
of  the  land  ;  and,  should  the  public  exigencies  malic  it  ne- 
cessary for  the  common  preservation  to  take  any  person's 
property,  or  to  demand  his  particular  services,  full  compen- 
sation shall  be  made  for  the  same;  and,  in  the  just  preser- 
vation of  rights  and  property,  it  is  understood  and  declared 
that  no  law  ought  ever  to  be  made  or  have  force  in  said  ter- 
ritory t])at  shall,  in  any  manner  whatever,  interfere  with  or 
afTect  private  contracts  or  engagements,  "bona  fide"  and 
without  fraud  previously  formed. 

Sec.  3.  Religion,  morality,  and  knowledge  being  neces- 
eary  to  good  government  and  the  happiness  of  mankind, 
scliools  and  tlie  means  of  education  shall  forever  be  encour- 
aged. The  utmost  good  faith  shall  always  be  observed  to- 
waids  the  Indians ;  their  lands  and  property  shall  never  be 
taken  from  them  without  their  consent,  and  in  their  property, 
rights,  and  liberty  they  shall  never  be  invaded  or  disturbed, 
unless  in  just  and  lawful  wars,  authorized  by  the  represen- 
tatives of  the  people  ;  but  laws,  founded  in  justice  and  hu- 
manit}',  sliall,  from  time,  be  made  for  preventing  injustice 
being  done  to  them,  and  for  preserving  peace  and  friendship 
witli  them. 

Sec.  4.  There  shall  be  neither  slavery  nor  involun- 
tary servitude  in  said  teriitory,  otherwise  than  for  the  pua- 


■r 


4, 

■'tr 
■,  .1 
vV. 


860 


TKN   YKARa   IN    OREOOW. 


isliment  of  crinr.es  whereof  the  party  shall  have  been  duly 
convicted. 

Si:c.  5.  No  person  shall  be  deprived  of  the  right  of  bear- 
ing arms  in  his  own  defence;  no  unreasonable  searches  or 
seizures  shall  be  granted  ;  the  freedom  of  the  press  shall  not 
be  restrained  ;  no  person  shall  be  twice  tried  for  the  same 
offence ;  nor  the  people  be  deprived  of  the  right  of  peacea- 
bly assembling  and  discusp'ng  any  matter  they  may  think 
proper  ;  nor  shall  the  right  of  petition  ever  be  denied. 

Sec.  0.  The  powers  of  the  government  shall  be  divided 
into  three  distinct  departments:  the  legislative,  executive, 
and  judicial;  and  no  person  or  persons  belonging  to  one  of 
these  departments  shall  exercise  any  of  the  powers  properly 
belonging  to  either  of  the  others,  except  in  cases  herein  di- 
rected  or  permitted. 

Article  IT. 


iSPI'  ^ 

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«.\C^*- .. 

1  I  .      ■! 

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''\'^           ' 

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<    1 

■i.' 


Skction  1.  The  legislative  power  shall  be  vested  in  a 
house  of  representatives,  which  shall  consist  of  not  less  than 
thirteen,  nor  more  than  sixty-one  members,  whose  numbers 
shall  not  be  increased  more  than  five  at  any  one  session,  to 
be  elected  by  the  qualified  electors  at  the  annual  election, 
giving  to  each  district  a  representation  in  the  ratio  of  its  pop- 
ulation— excluding  Indians ;  and  the  said  members  shall  re- 
side in  the  district  for  which  they  shall  be  chosen  ;  and  in 
case  of  vacancy  by  death,  resignation,  or  otherwise,  the  ex- 
ecutive shall  issue  his  writ  to  the  district  where  sucli  vacan- 
cy has  occurred,  and  cause  a  new  election  to  be  held,  giving 
sufficient  notice  at  least  ten  days  previously  of  the  time  and 
place  of  holding  said  election. 

Sec.  2.     The  house  of  representatives,  when  assembled, 


1  >' 


I  ;■ 


TEN   YBAR8   IN    ORRUON. 


301 


friving 


shall  choose  a  spealicr  and  its  officors  ;  be  judges  of  the 
quiilificjitions  and  election  of  its  momhcrs,  and  Kit,  upon  its 
own  adjournment,  from  day  to  day.  Two- thirds  of  the 
house  shall  constitute  a  (jiiorum  to  transact  business  ;  but  a 
smaller  number  may  adjourn  from  day  to  day,  and  may  be 
aufhorized  by  law  to  compel  the  attendance  of  its  absent 
members. 

Skc.  3.  The  house  may  determine  the  rules  of  its  pro- 
ceedings, punish  its  members  for  disorderly  behavior,  and, 
with  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds  expel  .'  member,  but  not 
a  second  time  for  the  same  offence  ;  and  shall  have  all  pow- 
ers necessary  for  a  legislature  of  a  temporary  government, 
not  in  contravention  with  the  restrictions  imposed  in  this  or- 
ganic law. 

Sec.  4.  The  house  of  representatives  shall  from  time  to 
time  fix  the  salaries  of  the  different  officers  appointed  or 
elected  under  this  compact,  provided  the  pay  of  no  officer 
shall  be  altered  during  the  term  of  his  service  ;  nor  shall  the 
pay  of  the  house  be  increased  by  any  law  taking  effect  dur- 
ing the  session  at  which  such  alterations  are  made. 

Src.  5.  The  house  of  representatives  shall  have  the  sole 
power  of  impeaching;  three-fourths  of  all  the  members  must 
concur  in  an  impeachment ;  the  governor  and  all  civil  ofH- 
cers  under  these  articles  of  compact  shall  be  liable  to  im- 
peachment for  treason,  bribery,  or  any  high  crime  or  misde- 
meanor in  office.  Judcrement  in  such  cases  shall  not  extend 
further  than  removal  from  office,  and  disqualification  to  hold 
any  office  of  honor,  trust,  or  profit,  under  this  compact ; 
but  the  party  convicted  may  be  dea't  with  according  to 
law. 

Skc.  6.  The  house  of  representatives  shall  have  power 
to  lay  out  the  territory  into  suitable  districts,  and  apportion 


.,1 


802 


•raw   YEAnS   IN    OREGON. 


IP-- 


?^i-"J 


m 


'■>:%■-■ 
t  .■  '.' 

M       ■ 
Jr.    I 


the  rp presentation  in  tlicir  own  body  ;  tlicy  blmll  have  power 
to  pass  laws  for  raising  a  revenue,  either  by  the  levying  and 
collecting  of  tixes,  or  the  imposing  license  on  merchandise, 
ferries  or  other  objects ;  to  open  roads  and  canals,  either  by 
the  levying  a  road  tax  or  tbe  chartering  of  companies  ;  to 
regula'e  the  intercourse  of  the  people  with  the  Indian  tribes; 
to  establish  post  offices  and  post  roads  ;  to  declare  war,  sup- 
press insurrection,  or  repel  invasion  ;  to  provide  for  the  or- 
ganizing, arming,  and  disciplining  the  militia,  and  for  calling 
forth  tlie  militia  to  execute  the  laws  of  Oregon  ;  to  pass  laws 
to  regulate  the  introduction,  manufacture,  or  sale  of  ardent 
spirits ;  to  regulate  tbe  currency  and  internal  poKu^y  of  the 
country ;  to  create  inferior  tiibunals  and  inferior  ofticers,  ne- 
cessary, and  not  provided  for  by  these  articles  of  compact; 
and,  generally,  to  pass  such  laws  to  promote  the  general 
welfare  of  the  p(!ople  of  Oregon,  not  contrary  to  the  spirit 
of  this  instrument ;  and  all  powers  not  hereby  expressly  del- 
egated to  remain  with  the  people. 

The  house  of  repiesentatives  shall  convene  annually  on  the 
6rst  Tuesday  in  December,  at  such  place  as  may  be  provided 
by  law,  and  shall,  upon  their  firtit  meeting  after  the  adoption 
of  this  instrument  of  compact,  proceed  to  elect  and  define 
the  duties  of  a  secretary,  recorder,  treasurer,  auditor,  mar- 
shal, or  other  ofTicero  necessary  to  carry  into  effect  the  pro- 
visions of  this  compact. 

Skc.  7.  The  executive  power  shall  be  vested  in  one  per- 
son, {elected  by  the  qualified  voters  at  the  annual  election, 
who  shall  have  power  to  fill  vacancies,  to  remit  firies  and  for- 
feitures, to  grant  par  'ons  and  reprieves  for  offences  against 
the  laws  of  the  territory,  to  call  out  the  military  force  of  the 
territory,  to  repel  invasion  or  suppress  insurrection,  to  take 
care  that  the  laws  are  faithfully  executed,  and  to  recommend 


f   ; 


TKNYEAKB    IN    OilKOON. 


303 


•uch  laws  ns  he  in;iy  consider  necessary  to  i\\o.  ropivscnta- 
tivcs  of  the  people  for  tla-ir  action.  Every  bill  whii^li  shall 
have  been  passed  by  the  house  of  representatives  shall,  be- 
fore it  becomes  a  law,  be  presented  to  the  governor  for  hia 
approbation.  If  he  aj)prove,  he  shall  sign  it ;  if  not,  ho 
shall  return  it,  with  his  objections,  to  the  house,  and  the 
house  shall  cause  the  objections  to  be  entered  at  lari^c;  on  its 
journals,  and  .shall  proceed  to  reconsider  tlu;  bill  ;  if,  after 
Buch  consideration,  a  majority  of  two  thirds  of  tlie  houso 
shall  agree  to  pass  the  same,  it  shall  become  a  law  ;  in  such 
cases  the  vote  shall  be  taken  by  ayes  and  noes,  and  be  en- 
tered upon  ihe  journals.  If  any  bill  shall  not  be  returned 
by  the  governor  to  the  house  of  representatives  within 
three  days — Sundays  excepted — after  it  shall  have  been 
presented  to  hi  n,  the  same  shall  become  a  law  in  like 
manner  as  if  the  governor  had  signed  it,  unless  the  hou.se  of 
representatives,  by  its  adjournment,  shall  prevent  its  return, 
in  which  case  it  shall  not  become  a  law.  The  governor  shall 
continue  in  oITice  two  years,  and  until  his  successor  is  duly 
elected  and  qualified  ;  and  in  case  of  the  office  becoming  va- 
cant by  death,  resignation  or  otherwise,  the  secretary  shall 
exejcise  the  duties  of  the  office  until  the  vacancy  shall  he 
filled  by  election. 

The  governor  shall  receive  the  sum  of  per 

annum,  as  full  compensation  for  his  services,  which  sum 
may  be  increased  or  diminished  at  any  time,  by  law  :  Provi- 
ded, the  salary  of  no  governor  shall  be  altered  during  hia 
term  of  service. 

The  governor  shall  have  power  to  convene  the  legislature 
on  extraordinary  occasions. 

Skc.  8.     The  judicial  power  shall  be  vested  in  a  supreme 


...~i'  V 

;i'll  ^'«'- 


P'J. 


;* 
»"'*' 


864 


TEN  YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


court,  and  such  inferior  courts  of  law,  equity,  and   arbitra- 
tion, as  may  b}  law  from  time  to  time  be  established. 

The  supreme  court  shall  consist  of  one  judge,  who  shall 
be  elected  by  the  house  of  representatives,  and  hold  his  of- 
jSce  for  four  years,  and  until  his  successor  is  duly  elected  and 
qualified. 

The  supreme  court,  except  in  cases  otherwise  directed  by 
this  compact,  shall  have  appellate  jurisdiction  only,  which 
shall  be  co-extensive  with  this  territory,  and  shall  hold  two 
sessions  annually,  beginning  on  the  first  Mondays  in  June 
and  September,  and  at  such  places  as  b}'  law  directed. 

The  supreme  court  shall  have  a  general  superintending 
control  over  all  inferior  courts  of  law.  It  sliall  have  power  to 
issue  writs  of  habeas  corpus,  mandamus,  quo  warranto,  cer- 
tiorari, and  other  original  and  remedial  writs,  and  hear  and 
determine  the  same. 

The  supreme  court  shall  have  power  to  decide  upon  and 
annul  any  laws  contrary  to  the  provisions  of  tliese  arti- 
cles of  compact;  and  whenever  called  upon  by  the  house  of 
representatives,  the  supreme  judge  shall  give  his  opinion 
touching  the  validity  of  any  pending  measure. 

The  house  of  representatives  m;iy  hereafter  provide  by 
law  for  the  supreme  court  having  original  jurisdiction  in 
criminal  cases. 

Sec.  9.  All  officers  under  this  compact  shall  take  an 
oath  as  follows,  to- wit : 

I  do  solemnly  swear  that  I  will  support  the  organic  laws 
of  the  provisional  government  of  Oregon,  so  far  as  said  or- 
ganic laws  are  consistent  with  my  duties  os  a  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  or  a  subject  of  Great  Britain,  and  faithfully 
demean  myself  in  office.     So  help  me  God. 

&EC.  10.     Every  free  male  descendant  of  a  white  man, 


TBN    YEARS    IN    OREOOK. 


36!> 


1  arbitra- 
id. 

who  shall 
•Id  his  of- 
ected  and 

rocted  by 
ly,    which 

hold  two 
s  in  June 
st-rd. 
•intending 

power  to 
an  to,  cer- 

hear  and 

upon  and 
hesc  arti- 
;  house  of 
s  opinion 

•ovide  by 
iiction  in 

take  an 

anic  laws 

said  or- 

n   of  the 

faithfully 


inhabitant  of  this  tenitory,  of  the  age  of  twenty-one  ^ ears 
and  upwards,  who  shall  have  been  an  inhabitant  of  this  ler- 
ritory  at  the  time  of  its  organization,  shall  be  entiLled  to 
vote  at  the  election  of  officers,  civil  and  military,  and  be  eli- 
gible to  any  office  in  the  tenitory:  Provided,  that  all  per- 
sons of  the  description  entitled  to  vote  by  the  provisions  of 
this  section,  who  shall  emigrate  to  this  territory  after  organi- 
zation, shall  be  entitled  to  the  rights  of  citizens  after  having 
resided  six  months  in  the  territory. 

Sec.  11.  The  election  for  all  civil  officers  provided  for 
by  this  compact,  shall  be  he'd  the  first  Monday  in  June  an- 
nually. 

ARTICLIi:    III. 

Land  Law. 

Section  1.  Any  person  now  holding,  or  hereafter  wish- 
ing to  establish  a  claim  to  land  in  this  territory,  shall  desig- 
nate the  extent  of  his  claim  by  natural  boundaries  or  by 
marks  at  the  corners  and  upon  the  lines  of  such  cl  .im,  and 
have  the  extent  and  boundaries  of  said  claim  recorded  in  iho 
office  of  the  territorial  recorder,  in  a  book  to  be  kept  by  him 
for  th»it  purpose,  within  twenty  days  from  the  time  of  mark- 
ing said  claim:  Provided,  that  those  who  sIilU  be  already 
in  possession  of  lands  shall  be  allowed  twelve  mouths  from 
the  passage  of  this  act  to  tile  a  description  of  his  claim  in  the 
recoi  dcr'j  office  :  And  provided  fui  ther,  that  the  said  claim- 
ant shall  state  in  his  record  the  i^ize,  shape,  and  locality  of 
such  claim,  and  give  the  names  of  the  adjoining  claimants; 
and  the  recorder  may  require  the  applicant  for  such  record 
to  be  made  to  answer,  on  his  oath,  touching  tlie  fact«. 

Sii:c.  2.     All  clai  aants  shall  within  six  months  from  the 


lite  man, 


366 


TEN   TEARS  IN    0H£O0N. 


I;;!.' 


m 


m 

Ir-. 


i 


lime  of  recording  their  claims,  make  permanent  improve- 
ments upon  the  same  by  building  or  enclosing,  and  also  be- 
come  an  occupant  upon  said  claim  within  one  year  from  the 
date  of  such  record,  or,  in  case  not  occupied,  the  person 
holding  said  claim  shall  pay  into  the  treasury  the  sum  of 
five  dollars  annually,  and  in  case  of  failure  to  occupy,  or  on 
failure  uf  payment  of  the  sum  above  stated,  the  claim  shall 
be  consideied  as  abandoned :  Provided,  that  no  non-resi- 
dent of  this  territory  shall  have  the  benefit  of  this  law :  And 
provided  further,  that  any  resident  of  this  territory,  absent 
on  private  business  for  two  years,  may  hold  his  claim  by 
paying  five  dollars  annually  to  the  treasury, 

Siio.  3.  No  individual  shall  be  rdlowed  to  hold  a  claim  of 
more  than  one  square  mile,  or  six  hundred  and  forty  acres, 
in  a  square  or  oblong  form,  according  to  the  natural  situa 
tion  of  the  premises;  nor  shall  any  individual  be  allowed  to 
hold  more  than  one  claim  at  the  same  time.  Any  person 
complying  with  the  provision  of  these  ordinances  shall  be 
entitled  to  tlic  same  recourse  against  trespass  as  in  other  ca 
Bes  by  law  provided. 

Skc.  4.  Partnerships  of  two  or  more  persons  shall,  be 
allowed  to  take  up  a  tract  of  land  not  exceeding  six  himdred 
and  forty  acies  to  each  person  in  said  partnership,  subject  to 
all  the  provisions  of  this  law.  And  whenever  such  partner- 
ship is  dissolved,  the  members  shall  record  the  particular 
parts  of  said  tracts  as  may  be  allotted  to  him :  Provided, 
that  no  member  of  said  partnership  shall  hold  a  separate 
chiim  at  the  time  of  the  existence  of  said  partnersliip, 

Skc.  5.  The  boundary  cf  lines  of  all  claims  shall  here- 
after conform  as  near  as  ma}*  be  to  the  cardinal  points. 

Siic.  G.  The  officers  elected  at  the  general  election  held 
on  the  first  Tuesday  in  June,  1845,  shall  be  the  officers  to.ict 


'»■! 


TEN   YEARS   IN    ORKOON. 


367 


improve- 
d  also  be 
r  from  the 
Lhe  person 
le  sum  of 
11  py,  or  on 
[;]aim  shall 
)  non-resi- 
law:   And 
Dry,  absent 
i  claim  bj 

1  a  claim  of 
orty  acres, 
tural  situa 

allowed  to 
^ny  person 
es  shall  be 

n  other  ca 

ns  shiA\  be 
ix  hundred 
,  subject  to 
ch  partner- 
particular 
Provided, 
a  separate 
•ship. 

shall  berC' 
oints. 

ection  held 
Vircrs  to  act 


under  this  organic  law,  and  their  official  acts,  so  far  as  they 
are  ia  accoi  dance  with  this  compact,  are  hereby  declared 
valid  and  legal. 

Siio.  Y.  Amendments  to  this  instrument  may  be  propo- 
sed by  the  house  of  representatives,  two-thirds  of  ihe  mem- 
bers concurring  theiin  ;  v.hich  amendments  shall  be  made 
public  in  aU  parts  of  Oicgon,  and  be  read  at  the  polls  at  the 
rext  succeeding  general  election  ;  and  a  concurrence  of  two- 
thirds  of  all  the  members  at  said  election,  niny  pass  s;dd 
amendments,  and  they  sh;ill  become  a  part  of  this  compact. 

Oregon  City,  July  5,  1845. 

A  true  copy  of  the  original. 


M.  M.  McCAIlVER. 


Attest : 
J.  E.  Long,  Secretary, 


Adopted  by  the  people  at  a  general  election  held  in  Ore- 
gon, the  last  Saturday  in  July,  A.  D.  1845. 
Attest: 

J.  E.  LONG,  Secretary. 

Done  hj  the  House  of  Ileprcsoitati'ics  of  Oregon  Territory ^ 
this  Wthday  of  Auf/ust,  1845. 

Whereas  the  adoption  by  tlie  jin^ple  of  this  tcnitory  of 
the  amended  organic  laws  of  Oregon  was  an  act  of  necessity 
rather  than  of  choice,  and  was  i^: tended  to  give  to  the  peo- 
ple the  protection  which,  of  light,  should  be  extended  to 
them  by  tlieir  governn-unt,  and  not  as  an  r.ct  in  detiance  or 
disregard  of  th^  authoiily  or  laws  of  the  United  Slate.*?. 
Therefore, 

ile.-olved,  Is'u.  Tliat,  in  the  opinion  of  this  house,  the 
con^jress  of  the  United   States,  in  establishing  u  territorial 


i 


1 

III 

11 

1 

• 

1    } 

$ 

V 

ii* 

t 

;  ■.,■'  i> , 


8  <  •  ■ 


i' 


*  ■  '   \ 


368 


TEN    YEARS   IN   OREGON 


government  in  Oregon,  should  legalize  the  acts  of  the  peo- 
ple of  this  territory,  so  far  us  they  are  in  accordance  with  the 
constitution  of  the  United  States. 

2d.  That  Dr.  Elijah  White,  sub-Indian  agent  of  this  Ter- 
ritory, be  requested  to  present  u  copy  of  tiie  amended  or- 
ganic laws  of  Oregon  to  tlie  congress  of  the  United  States. 

3d.  That  the.se  resolutions  be  endorsed  upon  said  copy, 
with  the  vole  of  the  house  adopting  the  same. 

On  the  adoption  of  the  above  resolution,  the  vote  v,f  the 
house  was  unanimous. 

M.M.  McCARVER,  Speaker. 
Attest: 

J.  E,  Long,  Clerk. 


I  am  sure  I  shall  be  excused  in  introducing  some  addi- 
tional matter  relating  to  the  Indians,  and  some  of  their  stri- 
king peculiarities ;  and  before  giving  Dr.  While's  views  of 
the  causes  of  the  late  disturbances  in  Oregon  leading  to  Vae 
late  horrible  massacre  and  present  war,  I  beg  leave  to  pre- 
sent a  few  passages  from  Mr.  Farnham's  travels  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  also  from  Mr.  Lee  and  Frost's  work 
on  Oregon. 

Mr  F.  gives  the  following  interesting  accoimt  of  a  re- 
markable personage  wi'.n  whom  he  met  in  the  wilds  of  the 
west: 

"One  of  these  trapp«?rs  was  from  New  Hampshire;  he 
had  been  educated  at  Dartmouth  college,  and  was,  altogeth- 
er, one  of  the  most  remarkable  men  I  ever  knew.  A  splen- 
did gentleman,  a  finished  scholar,  a  critic  on  English  and 
Roman  literature,  a  politician,  a  trapper,  an  Indian!  His 
fetature  was  something  more  than  six  feet ;  his  shoulders  an'^ 
chest  were  broad,  and  his  arms  and  lower  limbs  well  forujod 


TEN    YEARS  IN    OREGOIV. 


369 


the  pco- 
B  with  the 

tliis  Tor- 
2nded  or- 
(1  States. 
aid  copy, 

jte  v-f  the 

speaker. 


ome  add!- 
'  their  stii- 
i  views  of 
ling  to  the 
Lve  to  pre- 
vest  cf  the 
ost's  work 

it  of  a  re- 
ds of  the 

pshire :  he 
,  altogeth- 
A  splen- 
nglish  and 
Jian!  Hia 
)  aiders  iiv'\ 
■veil  foruMid 


.(.nd  very  mui«cular.  His  foreh'  ..as  high  and  expansive  ; 
Causality,  Comparison,  Eventuality,  and  all  the  perceptive 
organs,  to  u  o  a  phrenological  description,  remarkably  large  ; 
Locality  was,  however,  larger  than  any  other  organ  in  tlvj 
fiontal  region  ;  Benevolence,  Wond(!r,  Ideality,  Secrctl^ '"> 
ness,  Dcstructiveness  and  Adhesiveness,  Combativeness,  Se/f- 
Esteem  and  Hope  were  very  liigh.  The  remaining  organs 
were  low.  His  head  was  clothed  with  hair  as  black  v  i  jet, 
two  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  smoothl}-  combed  and  hanging 
down  his  back.  He  was  dressed  in  a  deer  skin  frocV,  leg- 
gins  and  moccasins ;  not  a  shred  of  cloth  about  his  lerson. 
On  my  first  interview  vyith  him,  he  addjcssed  me  with  the 
stiff,  cold  formality  of  one  conscious  of  his  own  importance  ; 
and,  in  a  manner  that  he  thought  unobserved,  scrutinized  the 
movement  of  every  muscle  of  my  face  and  every  word  that 
I  uttered.  And  when  any  thing  was  said  of  political  events 
in  the  states  or  Europe,  he  gave  silent  and  intense  attention. 
I  left  him  without  any  very  good  impressions  of  his  charac- 
ter ;  for  I  had  induced  him  to  open  his  compressed  mouth  but 
once,  and  then  to  make  the  no  very  agreeable  enquiries — 
'  When  do  you  start  ?  '  and  '  What  route  do  you  take  ?' 
At  my  second  interview,  he  was  more  familiar.  Having  as- 
certained that  he  was  proud  of  his  learning,  I  approached 
him  through  that  medium.  lie  seemed  pleased  at  this  com- 
pliment to  his  superiority  over  those  around  him,  and  at 
once  became  easy  and  talkative.  His  '  Alma  Mater'  was 
described  and  redescribed  ;  all  the  fields  and  walks  and  riv- 
ulets, the  beautiful  Connecticut,  the  evergreen  primitive 
ridges  lying  along  its  banks,  which,  he  said,  'had  smiled  for 
a  thousand  ages  on  the  march  of  decay  ;'  were  successive 
themes  of  his  gigantic  ima<rination.     His  descriptions  were 

minute  and  exquisite.     He  saw  in  every  thing  all  that  sci- 
24 


■i- 


zio 


TEN    YEAK3    IN    OJIKGON. 


!!«'■■■  ■ 


■>'■ 


cncc  sees,  together  wiLli  all  that  liis  capacious  intellect,  in 
structed  and  imbued  with  tlie  wild  fancying;;  and  legends  of 
his  race,  could  see.  I  encjuired  the  reason  of  his  lea\ing 
civilized  life  for  a  precarious  liveiiliood  in  the  wilderness. 
'  For  reasons  found  in  tlie  nature  (jf  my  race,'  he  replied. 
'  The  Indian's  eye  cannot  be  satisfied  witli  a  description  of 
things,  how  beautiful  soever  may  be  the  style,  or  the  har- 
monies of  verse  in  which  it  is  conveyed.  For  neiiher  the 
periods  of  burning  eloquence,  nor  the  mighty  and  beautiful 
creations  of  the  imagination,  can  unbosom  the  mighty  reali- 
ties as  they  live  in  their  owv  i-^ative  magnificence  on  the  eter- 
nal mountains,  and  in  the  secret,  untrodden  vale. 

As  soon  as  you  thrust  the  plowshare  under  the  earth,  it 
teems  with  worms  and  useless  weeds.  It  increases  popula- 
tion to  an  unnatural  extent — creates  tlxC  necessity  of  penal 
enactments — builds  the  jail — erects  the  gallows — spreads 
over  the  human  face  a  mask  of  dei^eption  and  selfishness — 
and  svibstitutes  villany,  love  of  wealth,  and  power,  and  the 
slaugtcr  of  millions  for  the  gratification  of  some  royal  cut- 
throat, in  the  place  of  the  single  minded  honesty,  the  hospi- 
tality, the  honor  and  purity  of  the  natural  state.  Hence, 
wherever  agriculture  appears,  the  increase  of  moral  and 
physical  wretchedness  induces  the  thousands  of  necessities, 
as  they  arc  termed,  for  abridging  human  liberty  ;  for  fetter- 
ing down  the  mind  to  the  principles  of  right,  derived,  not 
from  nature,  but  from  a  restrained  and  forced  condition  of 
existence.  And  hence  my  race,  with  mental  and  physical 
habits  as  free  as  the  waters  that  flow  from  the  hills,  become 
restiti'  under  ihe  rules  of  civilized  life  ;  dwindle  to  their 
graves  under  the  control  of  laws,  and  customs,  and  forms, 
which  have  grown  out  of  the  endless  vices,  and  the  facti 
tious  virtues  of  another  race.     Red  men  often  acquire  and 


TKN   YEAnS   IN    OKEQOK. 


371 


licet,  iti 
igcndrf  of 
^  Icavini; 
ilderncs.':. 

replied, 
iption  of 

llio  h:ir 

iihor  tlio 

bciiutiful 

Illy  reali 

I  the  eter- 

1  cartli,  it 
!S  popula- 
'  of  penal 
— spread!^ 
isliness — 
.  and  the 
•oyal  cut- 
lie  hospi- 
Ilence, 
noral  and 
iccessities, 
for  fetter- 
rived,  not 
ndition  of 
1  physical 
s,  become 
e.  to  their 
nd  forms, 
the  facti 
quire  and 


love  the  sciences.  But  witli  the  natuio  whi;:h  the  Great 
Spirit  has  given  them,  what  are  all  their  trutlis  to  them  ? 
Would  an  Indina  ever  moasun^  the  heii^ht  of  a  mountain  that 
he  could  climb  ?  No,  never.  'V\\v.  legends  of  his  tribe  tdl 
him  notliing  about  (juadrants,  and  base  lines  and  angles. 
Their  old  br;;vcs,  hova-vor,  have  for  ages  vvatched  from  the 
clids  the  green  life  in  the  spring,  and  the  yellow  death  in 
the  autumn,  of  their  holy  forests.  Why  .should  he  ever  cal- 
culate an  echpse?  lie  always  l<n(i\v  such  things  to  be  the 
doings  of  the  Gr«;at  .Spirit,  Science,  it  is  true,  can  tell  the 
times  and  seasons  of  their  coming  ;  but  the  Indian,  when 
they  do  occur,  looks  through  nature,  without  the  aid  of  sci- 
ence, up  to  its  cause.  Of  what  use  is  a  lunar  to  him?  His 
swift  canoe  has  the  ffveoin  embowered  shores,  and  well-known 
headlands,  to  guide  its  course.  h\  fine,  what  are  the  arts 
of  peace,  of  war,  of  agriculture,  or  any  thing  civilized,  to 
him?  His  nature  and  its  elements,  like  the  pine  which 
shadows  its  wigwam,  arc  too  mighty,  too  grand,  of  too  strong 
a  fibre,  to  form  a  stock  on  which  to  engraft  the  rose  or  the 
violet  of  polished  life.  IVo.  I  must  range  the  hills  ;  I  must 
always  be  able  to  out-travel  my  horse  ;  I  must  always  be 
able  to  strip  my  own  wardrobe  from  the  backs  of  the  deer 
and  buffalo ;  and  to  feed  upon  their  rich  loins  ;  I  must  al- 
ways be  able  to  punish  my  enemy  with  my  own  hand,  or  I 
am  no  longer  an  Indian.  And  if  I  am  any  thing  ehse,  I  ara 
a  mere  imitation,  an  ape."  The  enthusiasm  with  which  these 
sentiments  were  uttered,  impressed  rae  with  an  awe  I  had 
never  previously  felt  for  the  unborrowed  dignity  and  inde- 
pendence of  the  genuine,  original  character  of  the  Ameri- 
can Indians.  Enfeebled,  and  reduced  to  a  state  of  depen- 
dence by  disease  and  the  crowding  hosts  of  civihzed  men, 
we  find  among  them  still,  too  much  of  their  own,  to  adopt 


\  ■ 


372 


TKN    YSAR&   IN    ORKGOV, 


too  much  bn 


to  feel  like 


ff;  . 


1-' 


the  character  of  another  race 
a  conquered  people  ;  and  a  preference  of  annihilation  to  the 
abandonment  of  that  course  of  life  consecrated  by  a  thou- 
sand generations  of  venerated  ancestors. 

This  Indian  has  been  trapping  among  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains for  seventeen  years.  During  that  time,  he  has  been 
often  employed  as  an  express  to  carry  news  from  one  tra 
ding  post  to  another,  and  from  the  mountains  to  Missouri, 
In  these  journeys  he  has  been  remarkable  for  the  directness 
of  his  courses,  and  the  exceedingly  short  spaces  of  time  re- 
quired to  accomplish  them.  Mountains  that  neither  Indian 
nor  white  man  dared  attempt  to  scale,  if  opposing  his  right- 
line  track,  he  has  crossed.  Angry  streams,  heavy  and  cold 
from  the  snows,  and  plunging  and  roaring  among  the  gird- 
ing caverns  of  the  hills,  he  has  swum  ;  he  has  met  the  tem- 
pest as  it  groaned  over  the  plains,  and  hung  upon  the  trem- 
bling towers  of  the  everlasting  hills ;  and  without  a  horse, 
or  even  a  dog,  traversed  often  the  terrible  and  boundless 
wastes  of  mountains,  and  plains ;  and  desert  valleys,  through 
which  I  am  now  travelling  ;  and  the  ruder  the  blast,  the  lar- 
ger the  bolts,  and  the  louder  the  peals  of  the  dreadful  tem- 
pest, when  the  earth  and  the  sky  seemed  joined  by  a  moving 
cataract  of  flood  and  flame  driven  by  the  wind,  the  more  was 
it  like  himself,  a  free,  unmarred  manifestation  of  the  sublime 
Energies  of  nature.  He  says  that  he  never  intends  again  to 
visit  the  states,  or  any  other  part  of  the  earth  '  which  has 
been  torn  and  spoiled  by  the  slaves  of  agriculture.'  '  1  shall 
live,'  says  he,  '  and  die  in  the  wilderness.'  The  music  of 
the  rushing  waters  should  be  his  requiem,  and  the  great  wil- 
derness his  tomb. 

Another  of  these  peculiar  men  was  an  Iroijuois  from  Can- 
iftda ;  a  stout,  old  man,  with  a  flat  nose,  broad  face,  small 


)  feel  like 

3n  to  the 

a  thou- 

y  Moun- 
lias  been 
one  tra 
Missouri, 
iirectness 

time  re- 
3r  Indian 
lis  right- 
and  cold 
he  gird- 
the  tern- 
he  trem- 

a  horse, 
loimdless 
through 
.,  the  lar- 
iful  tem- 
Ei  moving 
nore  was 
J  sublime 
again  ta 
hich  has 

'  1  shall 
music  of 
;reat  wil- 

om  Can- 
le,  small 


TEN  YEARS   IN    ORKGON. 


313 


twinl{ling  black  eyes,  a  swa-thy,  dirty  complexion,  a  mouth 
that  laughed  from  ear  to  ear,  and  always  relating  some  won- 
derful tale  of  a  trapper's  life.  He  was  particularly  fond  of 
describing  his  escapes  from  the  Sioux,  and  Blackfeet,  while 
in  the  service  of  th€  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  On  one  oc- 
casion he  had  separated  from  his  fellow- trappers  and  trav- 
elled far  up  th€  Missouri  into  a  particularly  beautiful  valley. 
It  was  th€  very  spot  he  had  sought  in  all  his  wanderings,  for 
a  retreat  for  him  and  his  squaw  to  live  in  till  they  should 
-die.  It  appeared  to  him  hke  the  gateway  to  the  isles  of  the 
blest.  The  lower  mountains  were  covered  with  tall  pines  ; 
and  above  and  around,  except  in  the  east,  where  the  morning 
«un  sent  in  his  rays,  the  bright  glittering  ridges  rose  high 
against  the  sky,  decked  in  the  garniture  of  perpetual  frosts. 
Along  the  valley  lay  a  clear,  pure  lake,  in  the  centre  of 
which  played  a  number  of  fountains,  that  threw  their  wa- 
ters mavy  feet  above  its  surface,  and  sending  tiny  waves 
rippiing  away  to  th-e  pebbly  shores,  made  the  mountains  and 
groves  that  were  reflected  from  its  rich  bosom  seem  to  leap 
and  clap  their  hands  for  joy,  at  the  sacred  quiet  that  reigned 
among  them. 

The  old  Indian  pitched  his  skin  tent  on  the  shore,  in  a 
little  copse  of  hemlock,  and  set  his  traps.  Having  done  this, 
he  explored  carefully  every  part  of  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains for  ingress  and  egress,  '  signs,'  etc.  His  object  in  this 
was  to  ascertain  if  the  valley  were  fiequentedby  human  be- 
ings ;  and  if  there  were  places  of  escape,  if  it  should  be  en- 
tered by  hostile  persons  through  the  pass  that  led  himself  to 
it.  He  found  no  other  pass,  except  one  for  the  waters  of 
the  lake  through  a  deep  chasm  of  the  mountain  ;  and  this 
was  such  that  no  one  could  descend  it  alive  to  the  lower  val- 
leys.    For  as  he  waded  and  swam  by  turns  down  its  still 


!.- 


374 


TEN    YKAltS    IN    OKEGON. 


waters,  he  soon  found  lilinsclf  dniwii  by  an  incicusing  cur- 
rent, whicli  suiriciently  indiciited  loliini  tlio  cause  of  the  deep 
roar  tliat  resounded  from  the  caverns  beyond.  He  accord- 
ingly made  tlie  shore,  and  climbed  along  among  (he  j)r()ject- 
ing  rocks  till  he  overlooked  an  abyss  of  fallen  rocks,  into 
which  the  stre.'im  poured  and  foamed  and  was  lost  in  the  mist. 
lie  returned  (o  his  camp  satiblied.  He  had  found  an  undis- 
covered valley,  stored  wilh  beaver  and  (rout,  and  grasses  for 
his  horses,  where  he  could  trap  and  fish  and  dream  awhile  in 
safety.  And  every  morning,  for  Ihiee  delightful  weeks,  did 
he  draw  the  beaver  from  the  deep  pf>ols  into  which  they  had 
plunged  when  the  (|uick  trap  had  seized  them  ;  and  stringing 
them  two  and  two  together  over  his  pack-horse,  bore  them 
to  his  camp ;  and  wilh  his  long  side-knife  stiipped  of  the 
skins  of  fur;  pinned  tliem  to  the  ground  to  dry,  and  in  his 
camp  kettle  cooked  the  much-j)ii/.ed  tails  for  his  mid-day 
repast.  '  Was  it  not  a  fine  hunt  that  ?'  said  he,  '  beaver  as 
tliick  as  mosquitoes,  trout  as  f)lenty  as  water.'  '  But  the  un- 
godly Blackfeel !'  The  sun  had  thrown  a  few  bright  rays 
upon  the  lim  of  the  eastern  firmament,  when  the  Blackfeet 
war-whoop  rang  around  his  tent — a  diieful  '  whoop-ali- 
hooh,'  ending  wilh  a  yell,  piercing  harsh  and  shiill,  through 
the  clenched  !eeth.  He  had  but  one  nu;ans  of  escape — the 
lake.  Into  it  he  plunged  beneath  a  showei'  of  poisoned  ar- 
rows— plunged  dicply — and  swam  under  while  he  could  en- 
dure the  absence  of  air ;  he  ruse  ;  he  was  iu  the  midst  of 
his  foes  swimming  and  shouting  around  him  ;  down  again  ; 
up  to  breathe  ;  and  on  he  swam  with  long  and  powerful 
sweeps.  The  pursuit  was  long;  but  at  last  our  man  entered 
the  chasm  he  hisd  expluied,  plunged  along  the  cascade  as 
near  as  he  dared,  clung  to  a  shrub  tliat  grew  from  the  crev- 
ice of  the  rock,  and  lay  under  w^atcr  for  the  approach  of  his 


IS*."!' :  . 


TKN   YEARS   IN    OUKtiON. 


375 


siiig  cur- 
llie  (ItiL'p 
;  accord- 
e  j)r<)jt!ct- 
)cks,  into 
tlic  mist, 
an  undis- 
nibiies  for 
awliile  in 
ccks,  did 
they  had 
stiiii<;ini' 
ore  them 
}d  of  the 
lid  in  liis 
mid -day 
beaver  as 
ut  the  un- 
iglit  rays 
Bhickfeet 
•hoop-all- 
,  through 
;apc — the 
soned  ar- 
could  en- 
mid  si  of 
\n  Jigaiu  ; 
powerful 
n entered 
Kscade  as 
the  c rev- 
el 1  of  his 


pursuers.     On  they  canus   they  passid,  they  sliricked,  and 

plunged  for  ever  into  the  abyss  (jf  mist." 

*  >k  *  *  *  ♦  * 

"The  trials  of  a  journey  to  the  western  wilderness  can 
never  be  detailed  in  words.  To  be  understood,  they  must 
be  endured.  Their  elTeets  upon  the  physical  and  m(  iilal 
system  are  equally  prostrating.  The  desolation  of  oin-  kind 
and  another  which  meets  the  eye  every  where;  the  sense  of 
vastness  associated  with  dearth  and  barrenness,  and  of  sub- 
limity connected  with  eternal,  killing  frosts  ;  and  of  loneli- 
ness c<juj)led  with  a  thousand  natural  causes  of  one's  de- 
struction ;  perpetual  journeyings  over  endless  declivities — 
among  tempests — through  freezing  torrents ;  one  half  the 
time  on  foot,  with  nothing  but  moi.'casins  to  protect  the  feet 
from  the  flinty  gravel  and  the  thorns  of  the  prickly  pear 
along  the  unbeaten  way  ;  and  the  starvings  and  thirstings 
wilt  the  muscles,  send  preturnatural  activity  into  tht>  nervous 
system,  and  through  the  whole  animal  and  mental  economy 
a  feebleness  and  irritability  altogether  indescribable.  lUil, 
at  Fort  David  Crockett  there  were  rest,  and  food,  juid  safety; 
and  old  Father  Time,  as  he  mowed  away  the  passing  mo- 
ments and  gathered  them  into  the  great  garner  of  the  Past, 
cast  upon  the  Future  a  few  blossoms  of  hope,  and  .-.weetened 
the  hours  now  and  then  with  a  bit  of  information  about  this 
portion  of  his  ancient  dominion.  I  heaid  from  vaiious  per- 
sons, more  or  less  ac(piainted  with  tlie  Colorado  of  the 
West,  a  confirmation  of  the  account  of  that  river  given  in 
the  journals  of  previous  days  ;  and  also  that  there  resides  at 
the  lower  end  of  its  great  kenyon  a  band  of  the  Clul>  Indi- 
ans— very  many  of  whom  are  seven  feet  in  height,  and  well 
proportioned  ;  that  these  Indians  laise  large  quantities  of 
black  beans  upon  the  sandy  intervals  on  the  stream  ;  that 


^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


1^  m 

m 


!ff  ^    12.2 

m  m 
:^  1^  12.0 


IL25  i  1.4 


1.6 


^^ 


<^ 


^ 


/a 


^>. 


o 


7 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


V?  V/1:ST  MAIN  STREET 

V.EBSTER,N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


V 


376 


TEN    YKARfl    IN   ORKGOK. 


i  .;.i 


'■m 


the  oval-leaf  prickly-pear  grows  there  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  in  height ;  that  these  Indians  make  molasses  from  its 
fruit ;  that  their  principal  weapon  of  warfare  is  the  club, 
which  they  wield  with  amazing  dexterity  and  force ;  that 
thoy  inhabit  a  wide  extent  of  country  north-west  and  south- 
east of  the  lower  part  of  this  river ;  that  they  have  never 
been  subdued  by  the  Spaniards,  and  are  inimical  to  all  white 
people.  Subsequent  inquiry  in  California  satisfied  me  that 
this  river  is  navigable  only  thirty  or  fcrty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  and  that  the  Indians  who  live  upon  its  barren  banks 
near  the  Gulf  are  such  as  I  have  descrbed. 

The  Snakes,  or  Shoshonies,  are  a  wandering  tribe  of  Indi- 
ans who  inhabit  that  part  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  whicL 
lies  on  the  Grand  and  Green  river  branches  of  the  Colorado 
of  the  West,  the  valley  of  Great  Bear  river,  the  habitable 
shores  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  a  considerable  portion  of 
country  on  Snake  river  above  and  below  Fort  Hall,  and  a  tract 
extending  two  or  three  hundred  miles  to  the  west  of  that 
post.  Those  who  reside  in  the  place  last  named,  are  said  to 
subsist  principally  on  roots ;  they  however  kill  a  few  deer, 
and  clothe  themselves  on  their  skins.  The  band  livin^  on 
Snake  river  subsist  on  the  fish  of  the  stream,  buffalo,  deer, 
and  other  game.  Those  residing  on  the  branches  of  the 
Colorado  live  on  roots,  buffalo,  elk,  deer,  the  mountain  sheep, 
and  antelope.  The  Snakes  own  many  horses.  These,  with 
their  thousands  of  dogs,  constitute  all  the  domestic  animals 
among  them.  They  have  conical  skin-lodges,  a  few  camp- 
kettles,  butcher-knives  and  guns.  Many  of  them,  however, 
still  use  the  bow  and  arrow.  In  dress,  thev  follow  the  uni- 
versal  Indian  costume — moccasins,  leggings,  and  the  hunt- 
ing-shirt. Nothing  but  the  hair  covers  the  head  ;  and  this, 
indeed,  would  seem  sufficient,  if  certain  statements  made  in 


TKW   YEARS    IN   ORKGOIT. 


S11 


relation  to  it  were  true  ;  as  that  it  frequently  grows  four  and 
five  feet  in  length,  and  in  one  case  eleven  feet.  In  these 
instances,  it  is  braided  and  wound  around  the  head  in  the 
form  of  a  Turkish  turban.  If  only  two  or  three  feet  in 
length,  it  is  braided  on  the  female  head  in  two  queues,  which 
hang  down  the  back :  on  the  male  it  is  only  combed  behind 
the  ears,  and  lays  dishevelled  around  the  shoulders.  The 
female  dress  differs  from  that  of  the  male  in  no  other  respect 
than  this :  the  shirt  or  chemise  of  the  former  extends  down 
to  the  feet.  Beaver,  otter,  bear  and  buffalo  skins,  and 
horses  are  exchanged  by  them  with  the  Arrapahoes,  and  the 
American  and  British  traders,  for  some  few  articles  of  wear- 
ing apparel ;  such  as  woolen  blankets  and  hats.  But  as  their 
stock  of  skins  is  always  very  limited,  they  find  it  necessary 
to  husband  it  with  much  care  to  obtain  therewith  a  supply 
of  tobacco,  arms,  and  ammunition. 

From  the  first  acquaintance  of  the  whites  with  them, 
these  people  have  been  remarkable  for  their  aversion  to  war, 
and  those  cruelties  so  generally  practiced  by  their  race.  If 
permitted  to  live  in  peace  among  their  mountains,  and  al- 
lowed to  hunt  the  buffalo — that  \  andering  patrimony  of  all 
the  tribes — where  necessity  requires,  they  make  war  upon 
none,  and  turn  none  away  hungry  from  their  humble  abodes. 
But  these  peaceai)le  dispositions  in  the  wilderness,  where 
men  are  left  to  the  protection  of  their  impulses  and  physical 
energies,  have  yielded  them  little  protection.  The  Black- 
feet,  Crows,  Sioux,  and  Eutaws  have  alternately  fought 
them  for  the  better  right  to  the  Old  Park,  and  portions  of 
their  territory,  with  varied  success ;  and,  at  the  present  time, 
do  those  tribes  yearly  send  predatory  parties  into  their  bor- 
ders to  rob  them  of  their  horses.  But  as  the  passes  through 
which  they  enter  the  Snake  country  are  becoming  more  and 


378 


TKN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


fl 


more  destitute  of  game  on  which  to  subsist,  their  visits  arc 
less  frequent,  and  their  number  less  formidable.  So  that, 
for  several  }ears,  they  have  been  in  a  great  measiire  relieved 
from  these  annoyances. 

From   the  time  they  met  Lewis  and  Clark  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Missouri  to  the  present  day,  the  Snakes  have 
opened  their  lodges   tc  whites,  with  the  most  friendly  feel- 
ings.    And  many  are  the  citizens  of  the  States,  and  tlie  sub- 
jects of  Britain,  who  have  sought  their  villages,  and  by  their 
hospitality  been  saved  from  death  among  those   awful  soli- 
tudes.    A  guest  among  them  is  a  sacred  deposite  of  the 
Great  Spirit.     Ilis  property,  when  once  arrived  within  their 
camp,  is  under  the  protection  of  their  honor  and  religious 
piinciple.     And  should  want,  cupidity,  or  any  other  motive, 
tempt  any  individual  to  disregard  these  laws  of  hospitality, 
the  p^o]^erty  which  may  have  been  stolen,  or  its  equivalent, 
is  retutried,  and  the  offender  punished.     The  Snakes  are  a 
very  intelligent  race.     This  appears  in  the  comforts  of  their 
homes,  their  well-constructed  lodges,  the  elegance  and  useful 
form  of  their  wardrobe,  their  horse-gear,  etc.    But  more  es- 
pecially does  it  exhibit  itself  in  their  views  of  sensual  ex- 
cesses and  other  immoralities.     These  are  inhiliited  by  im- 
memorial   usaLjes  of   the    tiibe.     Nor   dcs  their   code   of 
customs    operate    upon    those    wrong    doings    only    which 
originate  among  a  savage  people.     Whatever  indecency  is 
oftered  them  by  their  intercourse  with  the  whites,  they  avoid. 
Civilized  vice  is  quite  as  offensive  as  that  which  grows  up  in 
their  own  untrained  natures.     The  non-use  cf  intoxicalinu 
liquor  is  an  example  of  this  kind.     They  abjured  it  from  the 
commencement  of  its  introduction  among  them.     And  they 
give  the  best  of  reasons  for  this  custom  : — 'It  unmans  us  for 
the  hunt,  and  for  defending  ourselves  against  our  enemies ; 


■  ■■  r,  .V  t 

M;.i-  It*!'' 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


379 


isits  arc 
So  that, 
relieved 

le  bead- 
les have 
dly  feei- 
iVie  sub- 
[  by  their 
vful  sob- 
te  of  the 
thin  their 
rebfjioas 
r  motive, 
jspitabty, 
|uivalcnt, 
[es  arc  a 
5  of  tlicir 
md  useful 
,  more  es- 
nsual  ex- 
cd  by  im- 
code   of 
ly    which 
cccncy  is 
loy  avoid, 
ows  up  in 
toxicaling 
t  from  the 
And  they 
lans  VIS  for 
■  enemies; 


it  causes  unnatural  dissensions  amontj  ourselves :  it  makes 
the  Chief  less  tlian  his  Indian ;  and  by  its  use,  imbecility 
and  ruin  would  come  upon  the  Shoshonie  nation.*  What- 
ever diflferencc  of  opinion  may  exist  among  civilized  men  on 
this  matter,  these  Indians  certainly  reason  well  for  them- 
selves, and,  I  am  inclined  to  think,  for  all  others.  A  voice 
from  the  depths  of  the  mountains — from  the  lips  of  a  sav- 
age— send  to  our  ears  the  startling  rebuke — 'Make  not, 
vend  not,  give  not  to  us  the  strong  water.  It  prostrates 
your  superior  knowledge — your  enlarged  capacities  for  hap- 
piness— your  cultivated  understandings.  It  breaks  your 
.'=  .'ong  laws  ;  it  rots  down  your  strong  houses ;  it  buries  you 
in  the  filthiest  ditch  of  sin.  Send  it  not  to  us  ;  we  would 
rather  die  by  the  arrows  of  the  Blackfeet.' 

The  Crows  are  a  wandering  tribe  that  is  usually  found  in 
the  upper  plains  around  the  head  waters  of  the  north  fork 
of  Great  Platte,  Snake,  and  Yellowstone  rivers.  Their  num- 
ber is  estimated  to  be  about  five  thousand.  They  are  repre- 
sented as  the  most  arrant  rascals  among  the  mountains. 
The  traders  say  of  them  that  *  thoy  have  never  been  known 
to  keep  a  promise  or  do  an  honorable  act.'  No  white  man 
o^  Indian  trusts  them.  Murder  and  robbery  arc  their  prin- 
cipal employments.  Much  of  their  country  is  well  watered, 
timbered,  and  capable  of  yielding  an  abundant  reward  to  the 
iuisbandman. 

The  Blackfeet  Indians  reside  on  the  Marias  and  other 
branches  of  the  Missouri  above  the  Great  Falls.  In  1828 
they  numbered  about  two  thousand  five  hundred  lodgers  or 
families.  During  that  year,  they  stole  a  blanket  from  the 
American  Fur  Company's  steamboat  on  the  Yellowstone, 
which  had  belonged  to  a  man  who  had  died  of  the  small- 
pox on  the  passage  up  the  Missouri.     The  inffotcd  article 


380 


TEH   TEARS  IN   ORKOOIT. 


i.  . 


m-:.. 


,  1   Hfl^,j': 


being  carried  to  their  encampment  on  the  '  left  hand  fork  of 
the  Missouri,'  spread  the  dreadful  infection  among  the  whole 
tribe.  They  were  amazed  at  the  appearance  of  the  disease. 
The  red  blotch,  the  bile,  congestion  of  the  lungs,  liver,  and 
brain,  were  all  new  to  their  medicin-men  ;  and  the  rotten 
corpse  falling  in  pieces  while  they  buried  it,  struck  horror 
into  every  heart.  In  their  phrenzy  and  ignorance  they  in- 
creased the  number  of  their  sweat  ovens  upon  the  banks  of 
the  stream,  and  whether  the  burning  fever  or  want  of  ner- 
vous action  prevailed ;  whether  frantic  with  pain,  or  totter- 
ing in  death,  they  were  placed  in  them,  sweated  profusely 
and  plunged  into  the  snowy  waters  of  the  river.  The  mor- 
tality which  followed  this  treatment  was  a  parallel  to  the 
plague  in  London.  They  endeavored  for  a  time  to  bury  the 
dead,  but  these  were  soon  more  numerous  than  the  living. 
The  evil-minded  medicin-men  of  all  ages  had  come  in  a  body 
from  the  world  of  spirits,  had  entered  into  them,  and  were 
working  the  annihilation  of  the  Blackfoot  race.  The  Great 
Spirit  also  had  placed  the  floods  of  his  displeasure  between 
himself  and  them ;  He  had  cast  a  mist  over  the  eyes  of  their 
eonjurors,  that  they  might  not  know  the  remedial  incantation. 
Their  hunts  were  ended ;  their  bows  were  broken ;  the  fire 
in  the  Great  Pipe  was  extinguished  forever ;  their  graves 
called  for  them ;  and  the  call  was  now  answered  by  a  thou- 
sand dying  groans.  Mad  with  superstition  and  fear,  brother 
forsook  sister ;  father  his  son ;  and  mother  her  sucking  child ; 
and  fled  to  the  elevated  vales  among  the  western  heights, 
where  the  influences  of  the  climate,  operating  upon  the  al- 
ready well-spent  energies  of  the  disease,  restored  the  remain- 
der of  the  tribe  again  to  health.  Of  the  two  thousand  five 
hundred  families  existing  at  the  time  the  pestilence  com- 
menced, one  or  more  members  of  eight  hundred  only  sur- 


TXIf    YE  AHA  IK    OREGON. 


381 


vived  its  ravages.  And  even  to  this  hour  do  the  bones  of 
aeven  thousand  or  eight  thousand  Blackfeet  lie  unburied 
among  the  decaying  lodges  of  their  deserted  viUage,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Yellowstone.  But  this  infliction  has  in  no  wise 
humanized  their  blood-thirsty  nature.  As  ever  before,  they 
wage  exterminating  war  upon  the  traders  and  trappers,  and 
the  Oregon  Indians. 

The  Arrapahoes  reside  south  of  the  Snakes.  They  wan- 
der in  the  winter  season  over  the  country  about  the  head  of 
the  Great  Kenyon  of  the  Colorado  of  the  west,  and  to  a  con- 
siderable distance  down  that  river  ;  and  in  summer  hunt  the 
buffalo  in  the  New  Park,  or  '  Bull  Pen,'  in  the  '  Old  Park,' 
on  Grand  river,  and  in  '  Bayou  Salade,  on  the  south  fork  of 
the  Platte.  Their  number  is  not  well  ascertained.  Some  es- 
timate it  at  three  thousand,  others  more,  and  others  still  less. 
They  are  said  to  be  a  brave — fearless,  thrifty,  ingenious,  and 
hospitable  people.  They  own  large  numbers  of  horees, 
mules,  dogs,  and  sheep.  The  dogs  they  fatten  and  eat. 
Hence  the  name  Arrapahoes — dog  eaters.  They  manufac- 
ture the  wool  of  their  sheep  into  blankets  of  a  very  supe- 
rior quality.  I  saw  many  of  them  ;  possessed  one  ;  and  be- 
lieve them  to  be  made  with  something  ra  the  form  of  a  dar- 
ning-needle. They  appeared  to  be  wrought,  in  the  first 
place,  like  a  fishing-net ;  and  on  this,  as  a  foundation,  darned 
so  densely  that  the  rain  will  not  penetrate  them.  They  are 
usually  striped  or  checked  with  yellow  and  red. 

There  is  in  this  tribe  a  very  curious  law  of  naturalization  ; 
it  is  based  upon  property.  Any  one,  whether  red  or  white, 
may  avail  himself  of  it.  Oiie  horse,  which  can  run  with 
sufficient  speed  to  overtake  a  buffalo  cow,  and  another  horse 
or  mule,  capable  of  bearing  a  pack  of  two  hundred  pounds, 
must  be  possessed  by  the  applicant. 


882 


TEN   TEARS   IK    OREGON. 


These  being  delivered  to  tlic  principal  oliief  of  the  tribe, 
and  his  intentions  being  made  known,  he  is  declared  a  citi- 
zen of  the  Arrapahoe  tribe,  and  entitled  to  a  wife  and  o;her 
high  privileges  thereunto  appertaijiing.  Thus  recognized, 
he  enters  upon  a  life  of  savage  independence.  His  wife 
takes  care  of  his  horses,  manufactures  his  saddles  and  bri- 
dles, and  leash  ropes  and  whips,  his  mofcasins,  leggins,  and 
hunling-shiits,  from  leather  and  other  materials  prepared  by 
her  own  hands ;  beats  with  a  wooden  adze  his  buffalo  robes, 
till  they  arc  soft  and  pleasant  for  his  couch  ;  tans  hides  for 
his  tent  covering,  and  drags  from  the  distant  hills  the  clean 
white-pine  poles  to  support  it ;  cooks  his  daily  food  and  pla- 
ces it  before  him.  And  should  sickness  overtake  him,  and 
death  rap  at  the  door  of  his  lodge,  his  squaw  watches  kindly 
the  last  yearnings  of  the  departing  spirit.  His  sole  duty,  as 
her  lord  in  life,  and  as  a  citizen  of  the  Arrapahoe  tribe,  is  to 
ride  the  horse  which  she  saddles  and  brings  to  his  tent,  kill 
the  game  which  she  drc;  «es  and  cures ;  sit  and  slumber  on 
the  couch  which  she  spreads  ;  and  fight  the  enemies  of  the 
tribe.  Their  language  is  said  to  be  essentially  the  same  as 
that  spoken  by  the  Snakes  and  Cumanches. 

This,  and  other  tribes  in  the  mountains,  and  in  the  upper 
plains,  have  a  custom,  the  same  in  its  objects  as  was  the  cer- 
emony of  the  '  toga  virilis'  among  the  Romans.  "When  ri- 
pened into  manhood,  every  young  man  of  the  tribes  is  ex- 
pected to  do  some  act  of  bravery  that  will  give  promise  of 
his  disposition  and  ability  to  defend  the  rights  of  his  tribe 
and  family.  Nor  can  this  expectation  be  disregarded.  So, 
in  the  spring  of  the  year,  those  of  the  age  alluded  to,  asso- 
ciate themselves  forty  or  fifty  in  a  band,  and  devote  them- 
selves to  the  duties  of  man's  estate  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  They  take  leave  of  their  friends,  and  depart  to  some 


It  VI 


TBN  YEARB    IN   ORKGON. 


388 


Bocrpt  place  near  tlio  Avoodlnnds ;  collect  polos  twenty  or 
thirty  foot  in  length,  and  raise  thorn  in  the  form  of  a  cone  ; 
and  cover  the  structure  so  thickly  with  leaves  and  boughs  as 
to  secure  the   interior  from  the  gaze  of  persons   outside. 
They  then  hang  a  fresh  bufTalo  head  inside, — near  the  top 
of  the  lodge  where  the  poles  meet ;  and  below  this,  around 
the   sides,  suspend  camp-keltles,  scalps,  and  blankets,  and 
the  skin  of  a  white  buffalo,  as  oCferings  to  the  Croat  Spirit. 
After  the  lodge  is  thus  arranged,  they  enter  it  with  much 
solemnity,  and  commence  the  ceremonies  which  are  to  con- 
secrate themselves  to  Tvar,  and  the  destruction  of  their  own 
eni'mies,  and  those  of  the  tribe.     The  first  act,  is  to  seat 
themselves  in  a  circle  around  a  fire  built  in  the  centre  of  the 
lodge,  and  'make  medicin;'  that  is, — invoke  the  presence 
and  aid  of  protecting  spirits,  by  smoking  the  Great  Mystic 
Pipe.     One  of  their  number  fill  ■.  it  with  tobacco  and  herbs, 
places  upon  the  bowl  a  bright  coal  from  the  fire  within  the 
lodge,  draws  the  smoke  into  his  lungs,  and  blows  it  hence 
through   his  nostrils.     He  then   seizes  the  stem  with  both 
hands,  and  leaning  forward,  touclies  the  ground  between  his 
feet  with  the  lower  part  of  the  bowl,  and  smokes  again  as 
before.     The  feet,  and  arms,  and  breast,   are  successively 
touched  in  a  similar  way ;  and  after  each  touching,  the  sa- 
cred smoke  is  inhaled^as  before.     The  pipe  is  then  passed  to 
the  one  on  his  right,  who  smokes  as  his  fellow  had  done. 
And  thus  the  great  pipe  goes  round,  and  the  smoke  rises  and 
mingles  with  the  votive  offerings  to  the  Great  Spirit  that  are 
suspended  above  their  heads.     Immediately  after  this  smo- 
king, is  believed  *.o  be  a  favored  time  for  oHTering  prayer  to 
the  Great  Spirit.     They  pray  for  courage,  and  victory  over 
their  foes  in  the  campaign  they  are  about  to  undertake  ;  and 
that  they  may  be  prote9ted  from  the  spirits  of  evil  minded 


384 


TKN  TSARS   IN    OREUOK. 


■3 


'■  'So''''-"! 


If 


M 


mcdicin-men.  They  then  make  an  irrevocable  vow,  tlia 
these  mcdicin-men  do  not  make  them  sick — do  not  enter 
into  their  bosoms  and  destroy  their  strength  and  courage, 
they  will  never  again  see  their  relatives  and  tribe,  unless 
they  do  so  in  garments  stained  with  the  blood  of  their  ene- 
mies. 

II  ing  passed  through  these  ceremonies,  they  rise  and 
dance  <  the  music  of  war  chants,  till  they  are  exhausted 
and  swo  .  In  this  state  of  insensibility,  they  imagine  that 
the  spirits  >f  the  brave  dead  visit  them  and  teach  them  their 
duty,  and  inform  them  of  the  events  that  will  transpire  du- 
ring the  campaign.  Three  days  and  nights  are  passed  in 
performing  those  ceremonies ;  during  which  time,  they  neither 
eat  nor  drink,  nor  leave  the  lodge.  At  early  dawn  of  the 
fourth  day  they  select  a  leader  from  their  number,  appoint 
a  distant  place  of  meeting ;  and  emerging  from  the  lodge, 
^ach  walks  away  from  it  alone  to  the  place  of  rendezvous 
laving  arrived  there,  they  determine  whose  horses  are  to  be 
stolen,  whose  scalps  taken;  and  commence  their  march. 
They  always  go  out  on  foot,  wholly  dependent  upon  their 
own  energies  for  food  and  every  other  necessary.  Among 
other  things  it  is  considered  a  great  disgrace  to  be  long  with- 
out meat  and  the  means  of  riding. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  these  paries  are  unable  to  sat- 
isfy the  conditions  of  their  consecration  during  the  first  sea- 
son ;  and  therefore  are  compelled  to  resort  to  some  ingenious 
and  satisfactory  evasion  of  the  obligation  of  their  vow,  or  to 
go  into  winter  quarters  till  another  opening  spring  allows 
them  to  prosecute  their  designs.  The  trappers  relate  a  case 
of  this  kind,  which  led  to  a  curious  incident.  A  war  party 
of  Blackfeet  had  spent  the  season  in  seeking  for  their  ene- 
mies without  success.     The  storms  of  approaching  winter 


i;i 


TIM  TEARS   IN    ORKOON. 


385 


tha 

it  enter 

ourage, 

unless 

leir  ene- 

•isc  and 
h?  listed 
inc  that 
em  their 
pire  du- 
assed  in 
r  neither 
n  of  the 
appoint 
e  lodge, 
dezvous 
are  to  be 

march. 
>on  their 

Among 
)ng  with- 

►le  to  sat- 
first  sea- 
ingenious, 
ow,  or  to 
ig  allows 
ite  a  case 
var  party 
their  ene- 
ig  winter 


had  begun  to  howl  around,  and  a  wish  to  return  to  the  log 
fires  and  buffalo  meat,  and  hilarities  and  friendships  of  the 
camp  of  the  tribe  in  the  high  vales  of  Upper  Missouri,  had 
become  ardent,  when  a  forlorn,  solitary  trapper,  who  had 
long  resided  among  them,  entered  their  camp.  Affectionate 
and  sincere  greetings  passed  at  the  moment  of  meeting. 
The  trapper,  as  is  the  custom,  was  invited  to  eat ;  and  all  ap- 
peared friendly  and  glad.  But  soon  the  Indians  became 
reserved,  and  whispered  ominously  among  themselves.  At 
length  came  to  the  ear  of  the  trapper  high  words  of  debate 
in  regard  to  his  life.  They  all  agreed  that  his  white  skin  in- 
dubitably indicated  that  he  belonged  to  the  great  tribe  of 
their  natural  enemies,  and  that  with  the  blood  of  a  white 
upon  their  garments,  they  would  have  fulBlled  the  terms  of 
their  vow,  and  could  return  to  their  friends  and  tribe.  But  a 
part  of  them  seriously  questioned  whether  the  sacred  names 
of  friend  and  brother,  which  they  had  for  years  applied  to 
him,  had  not  so  changed  his  natural  relationship  to  them« 
that  the  Great  Spirit,  to  whom  they  had  made  their  vow, 
had  sent  him  among  them  in  the  character  which  they  them- 
selves had  given  him — as  a  friend  and  brother.  If  so,  they 
reasoned  that  the  sacrifice  of  his  life  would  only  anger  Him, 
and  by  no  means  relieve  them  from  the  obligations  of  their 
vow.  Another  party  reasoned  that  ihe  Great  Spirit  had  sent 
this  victim  among  them  to  test  their  fidelity  to  Him.  He 
had  indeed  been  their  friend ;  they  had  called  him  brother  ; 
but  he  was  also  their  natural  enemy  ;  and  that  the  Great 
One  to  whom  they  had  made  their  vow,  would  not  release 
them  at  all  from  its  obligations,  if  they  allowed  this  factitious 
relation  of  friendship  to  interfere  with  obedience  to  Himself. 
The  other  party  rejoined,  that  although  the  trapper  was 

their  natural  enemy,  he  was  not  one  within  the  meaning  of 
25 


-  n 


386 


TKN   TEARS   TV   OREGON. 


their  vow ;  that  the  taking  of  his  life  would  be  an  evasion  of 
its  sacred  obhgations — a  blot  upon  their  courage — and  an 
outrage  upon  tho  laws  of  friendship  ;  that  they  could  find 
other  victims,  but  that  their  friend  could  rot  find  another 
life.  The  other  party  rebutted,  that  the  trapper  was  con- 
fessedly their  natural  enemy ;  that  the  conditions  of  their 
vow  required  the  blood  of  their  natural  enemy  ;  and  that  the 
Oreat  Spirit  had  sufficiently  shown  His  views  of  the  rela- 
tive obligations  of  friendship  and  obedience  to  Himself  in 
Bending  the  trapper  to  their  camp.  The  trapper's  friends 
perceiving  that  the  obstinacy  of  their  opponents  was  unlikely 
to  yield  to  reason,  proposed  as  a  compromise,  that,  since,  if 
they  should  adjudge  the  trapper  their  enemy  within  the  re- 
quirements of  their  vow,  his  blood  only  would  be  needed  to 
stain  their  garments,  they  would  agree  to  take  from  him  so 
much  as  miglit  be  necessary  for  that  purpose ;  and  that  in 
consideration  of  being  a  brother,  he  should  retain  enough  to 
keep  his  heart  alive.  As  their  return  to  their  tribe  would  be 
secured  by  this  measure,  little  objection  was  raised  to  it 
The  flint  lancet  was  applied  to  the  veins  of  the  white  man  ; 
their  garments  were  died  with  his  blood ;  they  departed  for 
their  nation's  village,  and  the  poor  trapper  for  the  beaver 
among  the  hills. 

My  worthy  old  guide,  Kelly,  had  often  seen  these  medicin- 
lodges.  He  informed  me  that  many  of  his  votive  offerings 
before  mentioned  arc  permitted  to  decay  with  the  lodge  in 
•which  they  are  hung ;  that  the  penalty  to  any  mortal  who 
shoTild  dare  appropriate  them  to  his  use  was  death.  A  cer- 
tain white  man,  however,  who  had  been  robbed  of  his  blanket 
at  the  setting  in  of  winter,  came  upon  one  of  these  sacred 
lodges  erected  by  the  young  Arrapahoes,  which  contained, 
among  other  things,  a  blanket  that  seemed  well  calculated  to 


V2X    Y£AKS   IX    OKEOOy. 


da;? 


asion  of 
and  nil 
uld  find 
another 
ran  con 
of  tlic'ir 
that  thf 
he  rela- 
mself  in 
5  friends 
unlikely 
since,  if 
1  the  re- 
ceded to 
1  him  so 
1  that  in 
lough  to 
would  be 
jed  to  it 
itc  man  ; 
arted  for 
e  beaver 

medicin- 
offerings 
lodge  in 
rtal  who 
Accr- 
is  blanket 
;e  sacred 
ontained, 
julated  to 


bbield  hiji  from  the  cold.  J  [.J  spread  it  over  his  shivering 
frame,  and  very  unadvii^edly  went  irjto  the  Arrapahoe  vil- 
lage. The  Indians  kniw  the  sacred  deposit,  held  a  council, 
called  the  culprit  before  them,  and  demanded  why  he  had 
Btolen  from  the  Great  Spirit  ?  In  exculpation,  he  stated  that 
he  had  been  robbed  ;  that  the  Groat  S])irit  saw  him  naked 
in  the  wintry  w'.nd;  pitied  him;  showed  him  the  sacred 
lodge,  and  bade  him  take  the  blanket.  *  That  seems  to  l^ 
well,'  said  the  principal  chief,  to  his  fellow- counsellors,  'the 
Great  Spirit  has  an  undoubted  right  to  give  away  his  own 
property  ;'  and  the  trader  was  released. 

Among  the  several  personages  when  I  chanced  to  meet 
at  Brown's  Hole,  was  an  old  Snake  Indian,  who  saw  Messrs- 
Lewis  and  Clark  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  in  1806. 
He  is  the  individual  of  his  tribe,  who  first  saw  the  explo- 
rers' cavalcade.  He  appears  to  have  been  galloping  from 
place  to  place  in  the  office  of  sentinel  to  the  Shoshonie  camp 
when  he  suddenly  found  himself  in  the  very  presence  of  the 
whites.  Astonishment  fixed  him  to  the  spot.  Men  with 
faces  pale  as  ashes,  had  never  been  seen  by  himself  or  na- 
tion. *  The  head  rose  high  and  round,  the  top  flat ;  it  jutted 
over  the  eyes  in  a  thin  rim ;  their  skin  was  loose  and  flowing, 
and  of  various  colors.'  His  fears  at  length  overcoming  his 
curiosity,  he  fled  in  the  direction  of  the  Indian  encampment. 
But  being  seen  by  the  whites,  they  pursued  and  brought  hipn 
to  their  camp ;  exhibited  to  him  the  effects  of  their .  fire- 
arms— loaded  him  with  presents,  and  let  him  go.  Having 
arrived  among  his  own  people,  he  told  them  he  had  seen  men 
with  faces  pale  as  ashes,  who  were  makers  of  thunder,  light- 
ning, etc.  This  information  astounded  the  whole  tribe. 
They  had  lived  many  years,  and  their  ancestors  had  lived 
many  more,  and  there  were  many  legends  which  spoke  of 


4'i| 


S68 


TXK   TEARS  IN   OREG05. 


1 


■■'   If 


1^ 


1^' 

m 


many  wonderful  things  ;  but  a  tale  like  this  they  never  had 
heard.  A  council  was  iberetoi<;  assembled  to  consider  the 
matter.  The  man  of  st-ange  words  was  summoned  before 
it;  aad  he  rehearsed,  in  substance,  what  he  had  before  told 
toothers;  but  was  not  believed.  'All  men  were  red,  and 
therefore  he  could  not  have  seen  men  as  pale  as  ashes.' 
*  The  Great  Spirit  made  the  thunder  and  the  lightning  ;  he 
therefore  could  not  have  seen  men  of  any  color  that  could 
produce  it.  He  had  seen  nothing  ;  he  had  lied  to  his  chief, 
and  should  die.'  At  this  stage  of  the  proceedings,  the  cul- 
prit produced  some  of  the  presents  which  he  had  received 
from  the  pale  men.  These  being  quite  as  new  to  them  as 
pale  faces  were,  it  was  determined  '  that  he  should  have  the 
privilege  of  leading  his  judges  to  the  place  where  he  de- 
clared he  had  seen  these  strange  people ;  and  if  such  were 
found  there,  he  should  be  exculpated  ;  if  not,  these  presents 
were  to  be  considered  as  conclusive  evidence  against  him, 
that  he  dealt  with  evil  spirits,  and  that  he  was  worthy  of 
death  by  the  arrows  of  his  kinfolks.'  The  pale  men — the 
thunder-makers — were  found,  and  were  witnesses  of  the 
poor  fellow's  story.  He  was  released ;  and  has  ever  since 
been  much  honored  and  loved  by  his  tribe,  and  every  white 
man  in  the  mountains.  He  is  now  about  eighty  years  old, 
and  poor.  But  as  he  is  always  about  fort  David  Crockett, 
he  is  never  permitted  to  want." 

The  following  extracts  are  from  Lee  and  Frost's  "  Ten 
Years  in  Oregon." 

**  But  perhaps  we  ought  not  to  take  our  departure  from 
this  place  without  noticing  the  great  medical  operation 
which  was  being  performed  here.  The  patients  consisted  of 
a  young  woman,  who,  upon  examination,  was  found  to  have 
a  slight  fever ;  and  a  child,  in  much  the  same  state,  neither 


TIN   TEARS   IS    OREOOy. 


389 


of  thetn  being  dangerously  ill.  But  the  doctors  affirmed 
that  they  had  been  filled  with  skokoms  ;  and  as  proof  of  the 
truth  of  their  statement  of  the  cases,  they  produced  a  small 
snail  shell,  with  a  small  string  attached  to  it,  and  a  small 
bunch  of  hair,  wound  up  with  a  thread,  and  several  other 
articles  of  the  some  nature,  which  they  professed  to  have 
taken  from  the  stomachs  of  the  sick,  and  there  were  still 
several  to  be  dislodged  before  a  cathartic  would  take  any 
effect ;  but  after  these  were  removed,  they  said  it  would  be 
good  for  Mr.  Lee  to  give  his  medicine.  They  now  made 
preparations  for  a  trial  of  their  skill  in  endeavoring  to  rout 
another  of  these  evil  genii  or  skokoms.  One  of  the  doctors* 
out  of  six  or  eight  who  constituted  the  grand  council,  all  of 
whom  appeared  as  wise  as  serpents,  it  would  seem  had  been 
the  most  successful  in  his  attacks  upon  the  strong-hold  of 
this  combination  of  skokons,  so  it  was  decided  he  should  be 
the  leader  in  another  general  onset.  Upon  which  he  crawled 
near  the  yoimg  woman — w  ho  was  stretched  upon  a  mat, 
with  a  female  attendant  at  her  lead — for  the  purpose  of  as- 
certaining the  precise  position  of  the  enemy.  Having  deter- 
mined this  point,  and  made  known  all  the  particulars  to  his 
faculty,  he  prepared  himself  for  the  tug  of  war.  This  he 
did  by  drawing  his  right  arm  through  the  hole  in  his  blanket 
around  the  neck,  so  that  his  arm  was  now  entirely  disen- 
cumbered, lie  then  threw  his  long  hair  up  over  his  head, 
which  entirely  covered  his  face.  Being  now  ready,  he  kneeled 
down,  while  all  the  othca'  doctors,  and  men,  women,  and 
children,  were  arranged  on  either  side,  equipped  with  sticks 
and  long  poles  which  reached  to  the  board  roof.  The  kneel- 
ing doctor  now  commenced  a  wild  and  frightful  song  or  cho- 
rus, in  which  all  joined,  keeping  time  with  their  sticks.  He 
now  commenced  moving  with  well- dissembled  caution  to- 


iii 

if 

A;  i 


390 


tk:x  years  in  oregoit. 


ward  the  patient,  extending  his  hand  toward  her  stomach, 
as  an  eagle  would  his  talons,  ready  to  seize  his  affrighted 
prey  ;  and  the  nearer  he  approached  the  lodgment  of  the 
sVokom,  the  more  furious  became  the  singers  and  thumpers, 
and  when  he  reached  the  stomach,  at  which  ha  had  been 
diminsr,  his  distorted  form  and  strained  muscles  evinced  the 
appearance  of  perfect  agony.  The  choir  now  bore  down 
with  might  and  main,  and  the  practitioner  now  plunged  his 
two  fists  into  the  patient's  stomach  most  unmercifully  ;  and 
sciidng  one  of  the  enemy  by  the  neck  or  heels,  or  somewhere 
else,  he  appeared  to  find  it  very  hot ;  but  drawing  back 
qtilckly,  plunged  his  hands  into  a  trough  of  cold  water, 
#hich  was  standing  hard  by,  and  then  seized  the  unyielding 
tde  again  ;  but  as  it  had  then  assumed  something  of  the  na- 
ture of  the  eel,  and  slipped  out  of  his  hands,  he  quickly 
caught  up  some  ashes,  rubbed  it  on  his  fingers,  then  laid 
hold  upon  it  for  the  third  time,  screaming  and  yelling  in  the 
tuost  terific  manner,  while  the  company  plied  their  sticks, 
and  singing,  or  rather  screaming,  pipes  with  redoubled  en- 
ergy. The  battle  now  became  doubtful ;  but  after  many 
manly  efforts  victory  turned  upon  the  doctor's  side,  who,  by 
oiic  mighty  effort,  broke  the  hold  of  the  skokom  upon  the 
patient,  which  now  turned  wholly  upon  the  doctor,  causing 
him  to  cry  out  for  help.  The  company  was  now  in  perfect 
ecstacies,  pounding  as  though  life  and  death  depended  upon 
every  stroke  ;  an^l  bellowing  at  the  very  top  of  their  voices, 
'Ha  ha  yeh,  ha  ha  yeh/  Two  of  the  faculty  now  caught 
the  almost  overpowered  doctor  around  the  waist,  and  bore 
him,  screeching  and  writhing,  away  from  the  patient,  amidst 
the  thundering  noise  of  the  transported  spectators  and  at- 
tendant physicians  ;  but  all  of  a  sudden  the  victorious  doc 
tor  cried,  *  Ho  ho  ho,'  and  making  an  effort,  as  though  he 


TXN  TKARS  IN    ORKGOX. 


391 


was  catching  after  something  toward  the  top  of  the  lodge, 
exclaimed,  '  There,  he  has  gone  through  the  roof!'  The 
music  now  ceased,  every  Indian  and  squaw  appeared  aston- 
ished, while  the  doctor  explained  the  whole  process  in  an 
elaborate  speech.  After  witnessing  several  such  feats,  Mr. 
Lee  commenced  reproving  them  for  their  folly  ;  but  a  ven- 
erable old  doctor  informed  him  that  it  would  be  best  for  him 
to  depart  before  he  found  himself  in  trouble.  So  taking  the 
old  man's  advice,  we  laid  in  a  stock  of  fresh  dried  salmon, 
got  our  crew  on  board,  and  left  the  doctor's  to  manage  the 
remainder  of  the  skokoms  according  to  their  ancient  mode  of 
practice."  ***** 

"  Let  the  reader  now  be  introduced  to  the  most  influential 
persons  among  this  people.  These  are  the  *medicin-men/ 
or  conjurors,  who  can,  it  is  believed,  set  the  evil  spirit  of 
disease  at  defiance,  cast  it  out  where  it  has  dared  to  enter, 
and  make  it  seize,  with  an  unyielding,  deadly  grasp,  the  ob- 
jects of  their  displeasure.  The  people  believe  that  they  iiold 
intercourse  with  spirits,  that  they  can  see  the  disease,  which 
is  some  extraneous  thing,  as  a  small  shell,  or  a  pipe,  or  a 
piece  of  tobacco,  or  some  other  material  substance,  which 
they — the  doctors — describe.  It  is  firmly  believed  that  they 
can  send  a  bad  '  tam-ana-a-was'  into  a  person,  and  make 
him  die,  unless  it  be  cast  out  by  some  other  'medicin-man.' . 
If  a  threat  is  made,  or  is  intimated,  by  one  of  them,  that  a 
certain  person  will  not  live  long,  no  sooner  does  he  hear  of 
it  than  he  is  alarmed,  and  feels  hims  If  a  dead  man.  For 
their  stivices  they  are  paid  in  advance,  and  often  their  de- 
mands are  high,  and  their  practice  is  lucrative.  When  their 
patients  die,  they  restore  the  fees.  This  is  necessary  for 
their  own  security,  for  otherwire  they  might  be  charged 
with  having  caused  his  death,  which  would  render  tliem  the 


m 


302 


l-EK   TEARS   IN    OREOOV. 


mark  of  revenge.  If  one  of  the  order  is  his  rival  or  enemy, 
and  he  wishes  this  obstacle  to  his  own  advancement  removed, 
the  affirmation  that  he  caused  the  death  of  some  person  will 
probably  be  followed  with  his  dcatli  by  some  of  the  relatives 
of  the  deceased.  Several  deaths  from  this  cause  took  place 
at  the  Dalles  the  first  year  after  the  station  was  occupied, 
and  this  is  a  common  occurrence  among  many  of  the  3ur- 
rounding  tribes.  Sometimes  it  happens  that  the  doctor 
takes  all  his  patient  has,  not  leaving  a  dying  man  his  last, 
perhaps  his  only,  garment  or  covering.  A  case  of  this  kind 
occurred  at  the  Dalles.  A  young  man  was  in  a  consumption, 
and  was  in  the  writer's  care — he  was  frightened  away  to 
the  doctor  by  some  one  who  saw  he  had  a  shirt  and  trousers, 
and  shoes,  and  a  light  blanket,  which  he  had  received  ia 
part  from  me  ;  and  it  was  not  long  before  he  had  stripped 
him  of  the  whole,  and  then  left  him  to  die,  or  hastened  his 
death.  The  poor  man  had  no  friends,  and  the  doctor  was 
safe. 

As  we  shall  have  occasion  to  notice  instances  of  these 
practices  in  the  progress  of  our  work,  the  \vriter  will  only 
mention  briefly  the  manner  in  which  it  is  sometimes  per- 
formed, which  will  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  its  degrading 
nature.  Several  poles  are  tied  together  at  the  ends,  and 
from  si.\  to  ten  men  are  arranged  along  them  in  a  sitting 
posture,  each  having  a  stick  with  which  he  beats  on  the 
poles,  and  thus,  a  loud  jarring  noise  is  produced,  which  may 
be  heard  a  long  distance.  This  is  accompanied  with  a  kind 
of  singing,  in  which  the  *raedicin-man*  leads  while  he  kneels 
near  his  patient  on  the  other  side  of  the  poles,  making  hor- 
rid contortions  and  grimaces,  as  if  some  demoniac  was  raging 
within.  The  chant  is  not  long,  and  then,  after  a  few  min- 
utes, is  renewed  again,  and  thus  repealed   several   times. 


TEK   TBARS   IN    OREO  OK. 


393 


The  way  being  now  prepared,  he  approaches  his  patient, 
and,  after  a  painful  and  persevering  effort,  with  his  mouth 
applied  as  a  cupping  glass,  he  transfers  the  'sko-kom,*  or 
'tam-an-a-was,'  or  disease,  wholly  or  in  part,  from  the  pa- 
tient to  himself!  In  this  stage  of  the  treatment  two  men 
approach  him,  and  taking  hold  of  ropes  about  his  waist  and 
beneath  his  arms,  free  him  from  the  patient,  when  he  appears 
as  one  dead.  Very  soon  he  begins  to  show  signs  of  life — 
a  limb  moves,  he  mutters,  turns,  gets  on  his  hands  and  knees, 
rises  slowly  up,  can  hardly  stand,  grows  stronger,  summons 
a  mighty  eflFort ! — music  lifts,  labors ! — makes  an  unearthly 
scream,  and  violently  throwing  out  his  arms  at  full  length, 
ejects  the  evil  principle,  and  he  is  now  ready  for  a  new 
onset!"  *  *  *  *  *  * 

"  While  Mr.  Shepherd,  as,  has  been  related,  was  confined 
to  his  dying  bed,  and  not  long  before  his  decease,  his  heart  was 
cheered  by  hearing  that  the  Lord  was  visiting  the  Dalles  sta- 
tion in  the  awkening  and  conversion  of  souls.  That  this  was 
the  work  of  God  at  its  beginning  and  in  its  progress,  the 
writer  fully  believes.  What  if  some,  or  even  most  of  the 
anticipated  results  failed  ?  Does  this  prove  that  it  was  not 
God's  doing  ?  By  no  means ;  for  instances  are  frequent  in 
whicl\  he  revives  his  work  in  portions  of  his  vineyard,  and 
most  of  the  anticipated  fruits  never  appear.  See  this  illus- 
trated by  an  unerring  Teacher  in  the  parable  of  the  sower, 
Matt.  xiii.  The  writer,  when  this  good  work  commenced, 
was  absent,  having  gone  some  time  previous  to  the  Walamet, 
and  did  not  return  till  past  the  15th  of  November.  When 
he  arrived,  Mr.  Perkins  met  him  at  the  shore,  and  told  him 
that  a  gracious  work  was  begun  among  the  natives.  Of  thi^ 
he  had  strong  doubts,  and  could  not  assent  till  the  proof 
appeared ;  for  before  he  went  to  the  Walamet,  they  had  bo- 


3^4 


TBN    YEARS  IN   OREGOK. 


Nil 


in 

■1 1 


1 


15 

n 

.      '  -    I. '•'•■All' 
■      ,  .■  .     ■       ■>^'~ 


»•**'- 

4i^ 


come  so  lawless  and  daring  that  our  safety  was  endangered, 
and  he  had  just  brought  several  muskets  and  a  supply  of 
powder  and  balls  from  Vancouver  for  defence,  intenduig  to 
garrison  the  dwelling-house,  and  resist  any  hostility  they 
might  attempt.  But  now  these  munitions  of  war  were  not 
needed,  for  it  appeared  truly  that  the  God  of  peace  had 
come  to  the  help  of  his  servants,  and  the  salvation  of  his 
people.  Mr.  Perkins  was  found  laboring  zealously  night  and 
day,  going  from  lodge  to  lodge,  praying  and  exhorting, 
holding  prayer  meetings  and  preaching.  His  own  soul  had 
been  recently  blessed  with  a  signal  salvation,  and  walking 
in  the  *  comfort  of  the  Holy  Ghost,'  he  had  the  cause  of  God 
greatly  at  heart.  Large  numbers  of  the  natives  attended 
the  meetings  as  earnest  hearers,  and  several  had  begun  to 
pray.  One  had  already  been  converted.  After  several 
weeks  of  deep  repentance,  in  which  he  met  with  much  op- 
position, and  devoted  many  hours  to  prayer,  hia  soul  was 
set  at  liberty  in  a  prayer  meeting ;  and  although  his  joy  was 
not  great,  the  change  was  soon  manifest.  He  began  at  once 
to  *  declare  what  God  had  done  for  his  soul,'  exhorted  all  he 
met  to  come  to  Jesus,  and  prayed  with  deep  and  fervent 
longings  for  the  souls  of  his  relations  and  others.  This  event 
awakened  a  deeper  and  wider  interest  among  the  people ; 
insomuch  that  the  number  of  inquirers  obliged  Mr.  Perkins 
to  give  himself  entirely  up  to  the  work,  as  mentioned  above. 
As  to  Mr.  Perkins  and  the  writer,  their  hearts  were  knit  to- 
gether in  love,  and  long  will  those  seasons  of  'refreshing 
from  the  presence  of  the  Lord,'  which  wc  enjoyed  in  those 
happy  days,  be  remembered,  when  the  language  of  our 
hearts  was,  'Jesus  is  mine,  and  I  am  his.'  Our  object  and 
aim  were  now  one — the  salvation  of  the  souls  around  us; 
and  we  desired  no  higher  employment  than  to  serve  them  as 


raV  TKARS  IN    ORKOOK. 


395 


the  heirs  of  eternal  life.  We  felt  that  they  belonged  to 
Christ,  and  he  could  and  would  save  them. 

With  those  views  our  united  strength  was  now  consecra- 
ted to  this  work,  which  the  Lord  of  the  vineyard  had  evi- 
dently assigned  us.  Our  meetings  were  held  in  the  house 
mentioned  in  the  last  chapter,  which  was  thirty  by  twenty 
feet ;  but  on  the  sabbath  it  would  not  hold  the  people,  so 
that  sometimes  it  was  necessary  to  hold  a  meeting  in  the 
other  house  at  the  same  time.  Every  morning  and  evening 
they  were  assembled  for  public  prayers,  when  a  portion  of 
the  New  Testament  history  was  expounded  by  one  of  us. 
Such  was  their  interest  in  the  meetings,  that  the  want  of 
clothing  suflScient  to  protect  them  from  the  cold,  or  of  shoes 
to  keep  their  feet  from  the  frost  and  snow — for  even  many 
of  the  women  had  none — could  not  keep  them  away,  though 
they  had  to  walk  a  mile  in  going  and  returning.  Who,  let 
me  ask,  in  this  christian  land,  would  do  more  than  this  in 
order  to  hear  the  blessed  gospel  ?  Some  time  after  my  re- 
turn from  the  Walamet,  there  being  about  twenty  souls,  men 
and  women,  in  deep  distress  on  account  of  their  sins,  and 
apparently  near  the  'kingdom,'  we  met  in  a  special  prayer 
meeting,  where  few  except  those  were  present.  Here  was 
earnest,  united  praying,  and  the  'kingdom  of  heaven  was  ta- 
ken by  violence.'  More  than  half  the  number  gave  evidence 
of  a  happy  change.  Their  agitated  hearts  felt  an  unknown 
peace,  a  joyful  smile  sat  on  their  faces,  and  their  lips  praised 
the  name  of  Jesus.  'Mi-cah  Jesus  Christ  e-toke-te! — Thou, 
Jesus  Christ,  art  good  !'  'Cupet  mi-cah  mi-mah  e-toke-te  ! 
Thou  alone  art  good  !' — '  Can-nu-it  e-toke-te  ! — Certainly 
thou  art  good  !'     'Jesus  good !'     'Jesus  good  !' 

The  'spirit  of  adoption'  was  now  as  manifest  as  had  been  a 
little  before  the  'spirit  of  bondage.'     One  of  these,  a  leading 


39« 


TEN    YEARS   IN  OREOON 


man,  who  is  sometimes  called  'Boston*  by  his  people,  be- 
cause his  head  is  not  flattened,  was  some  time  before  asked 
by  Mr.  Perkins  why  he  rose  so  much  earlier  than  formerly. 
'Why,'  said  he,  'I  cannot  sleep.  When  I  go  home  and  lie 
down,  I  think  of  your  teaching,  and  I  cannot  sleep,  I  sleep 
a  little,  and  then  dream  I  am  in  meeting,  and  my  heart  is  all 
the  time  talking  over  what  you  say.  My  heart  was  for- 
merly asleep,  I  see,  but  now  it  is  awake.'  As  soon  as  his 
own  proud  spirit  was  humbled,  and  his  troubled  conscience 
had  found  peace,  he  sought  his  wife  and  daughter,  knelt  by 
them  and  told  them  to  pray. 

Here  may  be  given  a  specimen  of  their  praying.  O  thou 
great  God  on  high,  we  now  pray  to  thee.  Our  fathers  knew 
thee  not,  they  died  in  darkness,  but  we  have  heard  of  thee 
— now  we  see  a  little.  Truly  we  are  wretched !  Our  hearts 
were  blind — dark  as  night — always  foolish — our  ears  closed ! 
Our  hearts  bad — all  bad — always  bad — full  of  evil — nothing 
good — not  one  !  Thou  knowest !  Truly  we  pray  now  to 
thee.  O  make  us  good  !  Put  away  our  bad  hearts.  Give 
us  thy  Holy  Spirit  to  make  our  hearts  soft !  Our  hearts  are 
hard  like  a  stone.  Give  us  light.  O  make  our  hearts  new 
— good — all  good — always  good !  Formerly  we  stole — told 
lies — were  full  of  anger;  now  done!  * Nashke  alka  ka- 
dow  /  Never  again  so !'  Now  we  desire  thee,  0  come  into 
our  hearts — now  come !  Jesus  Christ  thy  Son  died  for  us  ; 
O  Jesus,  wash  our  hearts!  'Minch't-cah-mect  cow-o-lute 
quich-cah ! — Behold  and  bless  !* 

Several  others  were  soon  after  added  to  this  number. 
Mrs.  Perkins  now  devoted  a  part  of  every  day  in  prayer 
meetings  with  the  females,  and  the  work  continued  to  pros- 
per. The  voice  of  prayer  was  now  heard  in  the  lodge,  and 
wood,  and  glen ;  the  early  morning  and  the  evening  were  vo- 


TSM   TKAR8    IN    aREGOX. 


sol 


cal  with  the  suppliant's  voice,  and  the  place  where  the 
'church-going  bell*  was  'never  heard,'  was  honored  with  the 
presence  of  the  'Head  of  the  church'  in  many  a  hallowed 
spot  where  he  met  the  contrite  'sinner  returning  from  his 
ways.' 

There  was  an  old  man,  who  for  some  time  stood  aloof 
from  the  work,  because  others  of  a  lower  class  took  the  lead 
in  it ;  and  this  made  him  of  less  consequence  than  he  de- 
sired, and  he  opposed  the  little  band  for  several  weeks. 
During  this  time  he  was  in  a  very  unhappy  state  of  mind. 
One  day  as  the  writer  was  speaking  with  him  closely  about 
God,  whom  he  was  bound  to  obey  and  love,  he  seemed 
deeply  affected,  and  wept,  and  while  we  prayed  together  his 
tears  flowed  freely  ;  he  did  not,  however,  yield  his  heart  to 
God  till  the  first  of  May,  several  weeks  after.  'IIow  do  you 
feel  ?'  said  Mr.  Perkins  to  another  old  man  as  they  were  go- 
iHg  out  to  pray  in  the  wood.  *  O,'  said  he,  'my  heart  is 
very  small  and  sorrowful.  Yesterday  I  prayed  most  all  day 
out  behind  that  hill,'  pointing  to  a  distant  hill;  'but  my  heart 
is  still  bad !'  'Jesus  can  change  it,'  said  Mr.  P.;  'Jesus  has 
died  for  you !'  So  kneeling  down  they  prayed  The  poor 
old  man  believed  in  Jesus,  and  light,  love,  and  joy  filled  his 
heart — another  proof  of  the  love  of  God  to  the  poor,  whom 
he  makes  'heirs  to  his  kingdom !' 

These  pages  relate  to  the  work  at  the  station,  chiefly 
among  the  Indians  of  the  Caclasco  village  near  it,  and  this 
continued  to  spread  till  but  a  small  number  were  left,  and 
dlso  extended  to  two  small  villages  a  few  miles  below,  em- 
bracing also  a  little  village  of  the  WallawaHas,  living  near 
Caclasco;  most  of  them  were  formed  into  cli.sesbyMr. 
Perkins  before  the  10th  of  January,  1840.  The  writer  had 
been  laboring  among  the  Indians  on  the  river  below,  down 


ml 


396 


TEN    YKAna   IS   OREOOK. 


|i' 


to  the  Cascades,  of  which  we  will  speak  hereafter,  and  fir^t 
notice  this  work  at  its  introduction  among  the  Indians  at 
Wishham. 

Mr.  Perkins  visited  this  village  on  the  10th  of  January, 
1840.  The  roundhead  man,  'Boston,*  was  with  him,  as  an 
interpreter :  this  man  had  assisted  him  from  the  day  of  his 
conversion,  and  was  found  an  efficient  helper :  the  season 
was  cold,  and  the  first  night  they  took  little  notice  of  him : 
encamped  in  a  lodge  of  sticks  and  mats.  There,  next  day, 
he  found  a  large  celler,  which  was  formerly  used  as  a  dan- 
cing hall,  and  clearing  it  out,  used  it  for  a  meeting  house, 
It  was  large  enough  to  hold  all  the  village — three  hundred 
souls.  A  few  men  and  boys,  and  about  twenty-five  women, 
came  in  the  forenoon.  Their  number  increased  at  every 
meeting,  till  on  the  fourth  day  almost  the  whole  village  were 
present.  Such  objects  never  met  your  eyes !  Naked,  squal- 
id, deformed,  blind,  halt,  lame :  Mr.  P.  truly  adds,  'destruc- 
tion and  misery  are  in  their  ways,*  as  saith  the  scriptures. 
After  he  had  preached  two  days,  they  seemed  to  awake  as 
from  a  dream;  many  began  to  pray,  a  \  the  cry  became 
general  as  the  meeting  progressed.  The  barren  rocks  be- 
hind Wishham  echoed  their  earnest  prayers,  and  many  after- 
ward testified  that  they  became  happy  while  thus  engaged, 
and  many  spoke  feelingly  of  their  past  wretchedness  and 
darkness,  and  seemed  to  feel  a  deep  abhorrence  of  their 
sins,  and  expressed  a  determination  to  serve  God  hence- 
forth. 

One  old  man,  on  hearing  Mr.  Perkms'  interpreter  tell  the 
story  of  Jesus,  exclaimed,  '  this  is  the  talk  I  want  to  hear !' 
Then  addressing  Mr.  Perkins,  he  with  a  poker  drew  some 
coals  from  the  fire,  saying,  'there,  you  have  come  just  to 


TKM   TKARS  IN    OREOOK. 


390 


and  firs>l 
ndians  at 

January, 
im,  as  an 
ay  of  his 
lie  season 
;  of  him : 
lext  day, 
as  a  dan- 
ig  house, 

hundred 
e  women, 

at  every 
lage  were 
ed,  squal- 
,  'destruc- 
jcriptures. 

awake  as 
•y  became 
rocks  be- 
lany  after- 
i  engaged, 
dness  and 
e  of  their 
od  hence- 


pull  me  out  of  the  fire !'  At  his  subsequent  visits  during 
the  winter,  the  work  appeared  to  be  continually  advancing, 
and  several  were  found  to  bo  useful  as  exhorters.  Here  he 
formed  several  olas<ses,  including  a  very  large  part  of  the 
village." 


'f 


.v'li 


ter  tell  the 
t  to  hear !' 
drew  some 
ne  just  to 


U'^ 


V'.t 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


401 


COL.   FREMONT'S   ADVENTURES  IN  CROSSING 
CALIFORNIA  MOUNTAIN. 

FEnuuARV  1st. — The  snow  which  had  intermitted  in  the 
evening,  commenced  falling  again  in  the  course  of  the  night, 
and  it  snowed  steadily  all  day.  In  the  morning  I  acquainted 
the  men  with  my  decision,  and  explained  to  them  that  neces- 
sity required  us  ^  j  make  a  great  effort  to  clear  the  moun- 
tains. I  reminded  them  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Sac- 
ramento, with  which  they  were  familiar  from  the  descrip- 
tions of  Carson,  who  had  been  there  some  fifteen  years  ago, 
and  who,  in  our  late  privations,  had  delighted  us  in  speaking 
of  its  rich  pastures  and  abounding  game,  and  drew  a  vivid 
contrast  between  its  summer  climate,  less  than  a  hundred 
miles  distant,  and  the  falling  snow  around  us.  I  informed 
them  (and  long  experience  had  given  them  confidence  in  my 
observations  and  good  instruments)  that  almost  directly 
west,  and  only  about  seventy  miles  distant,  was  the  great 
farming  establishment  of  Captain  Sutter — a  gentleman  who 
had  formerly  lived  in  Missouri,  and,  emigrating  to  this  coun- 
try, had  become  the  possessor  of  a  principahty.  I  assured 
them  that  from  the  heights  of  the  mountain  before  us,  we 
should  doubtless  see  the  valley  of  the  Sacrimento  river,  and 
with  one  effort  place  ourselves  again  in  the  midst  of  plenty. 
The  people  received  this  decision  with  the  cheerful  obedi- 
ence which  had  always  characterized  them,  and  the  day 
was  immediately  devoted  to  the  preparations  necessary  to 
enable  us  to  carry  it  into  effect.  Leggins,  moccasins,  cloth- 
in<T — all  were  put  into  the  best  state  to  resist  the  cold.  Our 
guide  was  not  neglected.  Extremity  of  suffering  might 
make  him  desert ;  we  therefore  did  the  best  we  could  for 
him.  Leggins,  moccasins,  some  articles  of  clothing,  and  a 
large  green  blanket,  in  addition  to  the  blue  and  scarlet  cloth, 
were  lavished  upon  him,  and  to  his  great  and  evident  con- 
tentment. He  arrayed  himself  in  all  his  colors,  and,  clad  in 
green,  blue,  and  scarlet,  he  made  a  gay -looking  Indian ;  and, 
26 


402 


TEN  YEARS  IS    OREGON. 


with  liis  various  presents,  was  probably  richer  and  better 
clothed  than  any  of  his  tribe  had  ever  been  before. 

I  have  already  said  that  our  provisions  were  very  low  ;  we 
had  neither  tallow  or  grease  of  any  kind  remaining,  and  the 
want  of  salt  became  one  of  our  gr<^atest  privations.  The 
poor  dog  which  had  been  found  in  thu  Bear  Kiver  valley,  and 
which  had  been  a  comiiagnon  dc  voyage  ever  since,  had  now 
become  fat,  and  the  mess  to  which  it  belonged,  requested 
permission  to  kill  it.  Leave  was  granted.  Spread  out  on 
the  snow,  the  meat  looked  very  good  ;  and  it  made  a  strength- 
ening meal  for  the  greater  part  of  the  camp.  Indians  brought 
in  two  or  three  rabits  during  the  day,  wliich  were  pui  chased 
from  them. 

The  river  was  forty  to  seventy  feet  wide,  and  now  entirely 
frozen  over.  It  was  wooded  with  large  cottonwood,  willow, 
and  grain  de  hceuf.  By  obser\  atiou,  the  latitude  of  this  en- 
campment was  38°  37'  18". 

2d. — It  had  ceased  snowing,  and  this  morning  the  lower 
air  was  clear  and  frosty;  and  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  above, 
the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  now  and  then  appeared  among  the 
rolling  clouds,  which  were  rapidly  dispersing  before  the  sun. 
Our  Indian  shook  his  head  as  he  pointed  to  the  icy  pinnacles, 
shooting  high  up  into  the  sky,  and  seeming  almost  immedi- 
ately above  us.  Crossing  the  river  on  the  ice,  and  leaving 
it  immediately,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
along  the  valley  of  a  tributary  stream.  The  people  were 
unusually  silent,  for  every  man  knew  that  our  enterprise  was 
hazardous,  and  the  issue  doubtful. 

The  snow  deepened  rapidly,  and  it  soon  became  necessary 
to  break  a  road.  For  this  service,  a  party  cf  ten  was  formed, 
mounted  on  the  strongest  horses,  each  man  in  succession 
opening  the  road  on  foot,  or  on  horseback,  until  himself  and 
his  horse  became  fatigued,  when  he  stepped  aside,  and,  the 
remaining  number  passing  ahead,  he  took  his  station  in  the 
rear.  Leaving  this  stream,  and  pursuing  a  very  direct 
course,  we  passed  over  an  intervening  ridge  to  the  river  wc 
had  left.  ^  On  the  way  we  passed  two  low  huts  entirely 
covered  with  snow,  which  might  very  easily  have  escaped 
observation.  A  family  was  living  in  each  ;  and  the  only 
trail  I  saw  in  the  neighborhood  was  from  the  door-hole  to  a 
nut-pine  tree  near,  which  supplied  them  with  food  and  fuel. 
We  found  two  similar  huts  on  the  creek  where  we  next  ar- 
rived ;  and,  traveling  a  little   higher  up,  encamped  on  its 


IIS 

«'2 


m 


TBN  YEARS   IN   OREGOr. 


403 


bank  in  about  four  feet  depth  of  snow.  Carson  found  near, 
an  open  hill-side,  where  the  Avind  and  the  sun  had  melted 
the  snow,  leaving  exposed  sufficient  bunch-grass  for  the 
animals  to-nifjht. 

The  nut-pines  were  noAV  giving  way  to  heavy  timber,  and 
there  were  now  immense  pines  on  the  bottom,  around  the 
roots  of  which  the  sun  had  melted  away  the  snow ;  and 
here  we  made  our  camp  and  built  huge  fires.  To-day  Ave 
had  traveled  sixteen  miles,  and  our  elevation  above  the  sea 
was  6,700  feet. 

3d. — Turning  our  faces  directly  towards  the  main  chain, 
we  ascended  an  open  hollow  along  a  small  tributary  to  the 
river,  which,  according  to  the  Indians,  issues  from  a  moun- 
taiL  to  the  south.  The  snow  was  so  deep  in  the  hollow, 
that  we  were  obliged  to  travel  along  the  steep  hill-sides,  and 
over  spurs,  where  the  wind  and  sun  had  in  places  lessened 
the  snow,  and  where  the  grass,  which  appeared  to  be  in 
good  quality  along  the  sides  of  the  mouniains,  was  exposed. 
We  opened  oar  road  in  the  same  way  as  yesterday,  but 
made  only  seven  miles,  and  encamped  by  some  springs  at 
the  foot  of  a  high  and  steep  hill,  by  which  the  hollow  as- 
cended to  another  basin  in  the  mountain.  The  little  stream 
below  was  entirely  buried  in  snow.  The  springs  were  shaded 
by  the  boughs  of  a  lofty  cedar,  which  here  made  its  first  ap- 
pearance ;  the  usual  height  was  one  !iundred  and  twenty  to 
one  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  one  that  was  measured 
near  by  was  six  feet  in  diameter. 

There  being  no  grass  exposed  here,  the  horses  were  sent 
liack  (o  that  which  we  had  seen  a  few  miles  below.  We 
occupied  the  remainder  of  the  day  in  beating  down  a  road 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  mile  or  two  distant ;  the  snow  bein^ 
beaten  down  when  moist,  in  the  warm  part  of  the  day,  and 
then  hard  frozen  at  night,  made  a  foundation  that  would 
tear  the  weight  of  the  animals  next  morning.  During  the 
day  several  Indians  joined  us  on  snow-shoes.  These  were 
made  of  a  circular  hoop,  about  a  foot  in  diameter,  the  inte- 
rior space  being  filled  with  an  open  network  of  bark. 

4th, — I  went  ahead  early  with  tAvo  or  three  men,  each 
Avitli  a  led  horse  to  break  the  road.  We  Avere  obliged  to 
abandon  the  hollow  entirely,  and  Avork  along  the  mountain- 
side, Avhicli  Avas  very  steep,  and  the  snow  covered  Avith  an 
icy  crust.  We  cut  a  footing  as  we  adA'anced,  and  trampled 
a   road  through   for   the   animals ;    but   occasionally   one 


•t    1 


I 


I: 


I'll 


404 


TBN    YEABS   IN   OREOOK 


plunged  outside  the  trail,  and  slided  along  tlie  field  to  the 
bottom,  a  hundred  yards  below.  Late  in  the  day  we  reached 
another  bench  in  the  hollow,  where,  in  summer,  the  stream 
passed  over  a  small  precipice.  Here  was  a  short  distance 
of  dividing  ground  between  the  two  ridges,  and  beyond  an 
open  basin,  some  ten  miles  across,  whose  bottom  presented 
a  field  of  snow.  At  the  further  or  western  side  rose  the 
middle  crest  of  the  mountain,  a  dark  looking  ridi^^e  of  vol- 
canic lock. 

The  summit  line  presented  a  range  of  naked  peaks,  appa- 
rently destitute  of  snow  and  vegetation  ;  but  below  the  face 
of  the  whole  country  was  covered  with  timber  of  extraordi- 
nary size. 

Towards  a  pass  which  the  guide  indicated  here,  we  at- 
tempted in  the  afternoon  to  force  a  road  ;  but  after  a  labo- 
rious plunging  through  two  or  three  hundred  yards,  our  best 
horses  gave  out,  entirely  refusing  to  make  any  further  effort, 
and,  for  the  time,  we  were  brought  to  a  stand.  The  guide 
informed  us  that  we  were  entering  the  deep  snow,  and  iiere 
began  the  difficulties  of  the  mountain ;  and  to  hira,  and  al- 
most to  all,  our  entei'prise  seemed  hopeless.  I  returned  a 
short  distance  back,  to  the  break  in  the  hollow,  where  I  met 
Mr.  Fitzpatrick. 

The  camp  had  been  occupied  all  the  day  in  endeavoring 
to  ascend  the  hill,  but  only  the  best  horses  had  succeeded ; 
the  animals,  generally,  not  having  sufficient  strength  to 
bring  themselves  up  without  the  packs ;  and  all  the  hne  of 
road  between  this  and  the  springs  were  strewed  with  camp- 
stores  and  equipage,  and  horses  floundering  in  snow.  I 
therefore  immediately  encamped  on  the  ground  Avith  my 
own  mess,  which  was  in  advance,  and  directed  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick to  encamp  at  the  springs,  and  send  all  the  animals,  in 
charge  of  Tabeau,  with  a  strong  guard,  back  to  tlio  place 
where  they  had  been  pastured  the  night  before.  Here  was 
a  small  spot  of  level  ground,  protected  on  one  si'^e  by  the 
mountain,  and  on  the  other  sheltered  by  a  little  rid^  .  of  rock. 
It  was  an  open  grove  of  pines,  which  assimilated  in  size  to 
the  grandeur  of  the  mountain,  being  frequently  six  feet  in 
diameter. 

To-night  we  had  ?.io  shelter,  but  we  made  a  large  fire 
around  the  trunk  of  one  of  the  huge  pines ;  and  covering 
the  snow  with  small  boughs,  on  which  we  spread  our  blan- 
kets, soon  made  ourselves  comfortable.     Tbo  night  was  very 


TBN   TEARS    IN   OREGON. 


4o; 


bright  and  clear,  thougli  the  tliermometer  was  only  at  10°. 
A  strong  wind,  wliicli  sprang  up  at  sundown,  made  it  'n- 
tensly  cold :  and  this  was  one  of  the  bitterest  nights  during 
the  journey. 

Tavo  Indians  joined  our  party  here  ;  and  one  of  them,  an 
old  man,  immediately  began  to  harangue  us,  saying  that 
ourselves  and  animals  would  perish  in  the  snow ;  and  that 
if  we  would  go  back,  he  would  show  us  another  and  a  bet- 
ter way  across  the  mountain.  He  spoke  in  a  very  loud 
voice,  and  there  was  a  singular  repetition  of  phrases  and 
arrangement  of  words,  which  rendered  his  speech  striking 
and  not  unmusical. 

We  had  now  begun  to  understand  some  words,  and,  with 
the  aid  of  signs,  easily  comprenended  the  old  man's  simple 
ideas.  "  Rock  upon  rock — rock  upon  rock — snow  upon 
snow,"  said  he  ;  "  even  if  you  get  over  the  snow,  you  will 
not  be  able  to  get  down  from  the  mountains."  He  made 
us  the  sign  of  precipices,  and  showed  us  how  the  feet  of 
tjie  horses  would  slip,  and  throw  them  off  from  the  narrow 
trails  that  led  along  their  sides.  Our  Chinook,  who  com- 
prehended even  more  readily  than  ourselves,  and  believed 
our  situation  hopeless,  covered  his  head  with  his  blanket, 
and  began  to  weep  and  lament.  "  I  wanted  to  see  the 
whites,"  said  he ;  "  I  came  away  from  my  own  people  to  see 
the  whites,  and  I  would'nt  care  to  die  among  them,  but 
here" — and  he  looked  around  into  the  cold  night  and  gloomy 
forest,  and,  drawing  his  blanket  over  his  head,  began  again 
to  lament. 

Seated  around  the  tree,  the  fire  illuminating  the  rocks 
and  the  tall  bolls  of  the  pines  round  about,  and  the  old  In- 
dian harranguing,  we  presented  a  gro  p  of  very  serious 
faces. 

5th. — The  night  had  been  too  cold  to  sleep,  and  we  were 
up  very  early.  Our  guide  was  standing  by  the  fire  with  all 
his  finery  on  ;  and  seeing  him  shiver  in  the  cold,  I  threw  on 
his  shoulders  one  of  my  blankets.  We  missed  him  a  few 
minutes  afterwards,  and  never  saw  him  again.  lie  had  de- 
serted. His  bad  faith  and  treachery  were  in  perfect  keep- 
ing with  tlie  estimate  of  Indian  character,  which  a  long  in- 
tercourse with  this  people  had  gradually  forced  upon  my 
mind. 

While  a  portion  of  the  camp  were  occupied  in  bringing 
up  the  baggage  to  this  point,  the  remainder  were  busied  in 


i 


'     H 


406 


TEN   YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


'15. 


malvinjc  sledfjes  and  snow-shoes.  I  liad  determined  to  ex- 
plore  the  mountain  ahead,  and  the  sledges  were  to  be  used 
in  transporting  the  baggage. 

The  mountains  here  consisted  wholly  of  a  white  micace- 
ous granite.  The  day  was  perfectly  clear,  and,  while  the 
sun  Avas  in  the  sky,  warm  and  pleasant. 

By  observation  our  latitude  was  38°  42'  26";  and  eleva- 
tion by  the  boiling  point,  7,400  feet. 

6th. — Accompanied  by  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  I  set  out  to-day 
with  a  reconnoitcring  party  on  snow-shoes.  We  marched  all 
in  single  file,  trampling  the  snow  as  heavily  as  we  could. — 
Crossing  the  open  basin,  in  a  march  of  about  ten  miles  we 
reached  the  top  of  one  of  the  peaks,  to  the  left  of  the  pass 
indicated  by  our  guide.  Far  below  us,  dimmed  by  the  dis- 
tance, was  a  large  snowless  valley,  bounded  on  the  western 
side,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred  miles,  by  a  low 
range  of  mountains,  Avhich  Carson  recognised  with  delight 
as  the  mountains  bordering  the  coast.  "  There,"  said  he, 
"  is  the  little  mountain — it  is  fifteen  years  since  I  saw  it ; 
but  I  am  just  as  sure  as  if  I  had.  seen  it  yesterday."  Be- 
tween us,  then,  and  this  low  coast  range,  was  the  valley  of 
the  Sacramento ;  and  no  one  who  had  not  accompanied  us 
through  the  incidents  of  our  life  for  the  last  few  months 
could  realize  the  delight  with  which  at  last  we  looked  down 
upon  it.  At  the  distance  of  apparently  30  miles  beyond 
us  were  distinguished  spots  of  prairie  ;  and  a  dark  line 
Avhich  could  be  traced  with  the  glass,  was  imagined  to  be 
the  course  of  the  river ;  but  we  were  evidently  at  a  great 
height  above  the  valley,  and  between  us  and  the  plains  ex- 
tended miles  of  snowy  fields  and  broken  ridges  of  pine-cov- 
ered mountains. 

It  was  late  in  the  day  when  we  turned  towards  the  camp ; 
and  it  grew  rapidly  cold  as  it  drew  towards  night.  One  of 
the  man  became  fatigued,  and  his  feet  began  to  freeze,  and 
building  a  fire  in  the  trunk  of  a  dry  old  cedar,  Mr.  Fitzpat- 
rick remained  with  him  until  his  clothes  could  be  dried,  and 
he  was  in  a  condition  to  come  on.  After  a  day's  march  of 
20  miles,  we  straggled  into  the  camp  one  after  another,  at 
night-fall ;  the  greater  number  excessively  fatigued,  only 
two  of  the  party  having  ever  traveled  on  snow  shoes  before. 

All  our  energies  are  now  directed  to  getting  our  animals 
across  the  snow  ;  and  it  Avas  supposed  that  after  all  the  bag- 
gage had  been  drawn  with  the  sleighs  over  the  trail  we  had 


L^^  ;« 


TEN   YEARS   IN   OREGON. 


407 


.0  ex- 
used 


made,  it  would  be  suniciently  hard  to  hear  our  animals.  At 
several  places  hetwecn  this  point  and  the  ridge,  we  had  dis- 
covered some  grassy  spots,  where  the  wind  and  sun  had  dis- 
persed the  snow  from  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  these  were 
to  form  resting-places  to  support  the  animals  for  a  night  in 
their  passage  across.  On  our  way  across  we  had  set  on 
fire  several  broken  stumps,  and  dried  trees,  to  melt  holes  in 
the  snow  for  the  camps.  Its  general  depth  Avas  five  feet ; 
but  we  passed  over  places  where  it  was  twenty  feet  deep, 
as  shown  by  the  treos. 

With  one  party  drawing  sleighs  loaded  with  baggage,  I 
a-dvanced  to-day  about  four  miles  along  the  trail,  and  en- 
camped at  the  first  grassy  spot,  where  we  expected  to  bring 
our  horses.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  another  party,  remained 
behind,  to  form  an  intermediate  station  between  us  and  the 
animals. 

8tli. — The  night  has  been  extremely  cold  ;  but  perfectly 
still,  and  beautifully  clear.  Before  the  sun  appeared  this 
morning,  the  thermometer  was  3°  below  zero  ;  1°  higher, 
when  his  rays  struck  the  lofty  peaks ;  and  0°  when  they 
reached  our  camp. 

Scenery  and  weather  combined,  must  render  these  moun- 
tains beautiful  in  summer ;  the  purity  and  deep-blue  color  of 
the  sky  are  singularly  beautiful ;  the  days  are  sunny  and 
bright,  and  even  warm  in  the  noon  hours  ;  and  if  we  could 
be  free  from  the  many  anxieties  that  oppress  us,  even  now 
we  would  be  delighted  here ;  but  our  provisions  are  get- 
ting fearfully  scant.  Sleighs  arrived  with  baggage  about 
ten  o'clock ;  and  leaving  a  portion  of  it  here,  we  continued 
on  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  encamped  at  the  foot  of  a  long 
hill  on  this  side  of  the  open  bottom. 

Bernier  and  Godey,  Avho  yesterday  morning  had  been 
sent  to  ascend  a  higher  peak,  got  in,  hungry  and  fatigued. 
They  confirmed  what  we  had  already  seen.  Two  other 
sleighs  arrived  in  the  afternoon  ;  and  the  men  being  fatigued, 
I  gave  them  all  tea  and  sugar.  Snow  clouds  began  to  rise 
in  the  S.  S.  W. ;  and,  apprehensive  of  a  storm,  which  would 
destroy  our  road,  I  scut  the  people  back  to  Mr.  Fitzpatrick, 
with  directions  to  send  for  the  animals  in  the  morning. — 
With  me  remained  Ih.  Preuss,  Mr.  Talbot,  and  Carson,  with 
Jacob. 

Elevation  of  the  camp,  by  the  boiling  point,  is  7,920  feet 

0th. 


-Durinq;  the  night  the  weather 


hanged,  the  wind 


408 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


,-i-m 


t'\ 


rising  to  a  gale,  and  commencing  to  snow  before  daylight ; 
before  morning  the  trail  was  covered.  We  remained  quiet 
in  camp  all  day,  in  the  course  of  which  the  weather  improved. 
Four  sleighs  arrived  towards  evening,  with  the  bedding  of 
the  men.  We  suffer  much  from  the  want  of  salt ;  and  all 
the  men  are  becoming  weak  from  insufficient  food. 

10th. — Taphn  was  sent  back  with  a  few  men  to  assist  Mr. 
Fitzpatrick  ;  and  continuing  on  with  three  sleighs  carrying  a 
part  of  the  baggage,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  encamp 
within  two  and  a  half  miles  of  the  head  of  the  hollow,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  last  mountain  ridge,  ■  Here  two  large 
trees  had  been  set  on  fire,  and  in  the  holes,  where  the  snow 
had  been  melted  away,  we  found  a  comfortable  camp. 

The  wind  kept  the  air  filled  with  snow  during  the  day  ; 
the  sky  was  very  dark  in  the  south-west,  though  elsewhere 
very  clear.  The  forest  here  has  a  noble  appearance  ;  and 
tall  cedar  is  abundant ;  its  greatest  height  being  130  feet, 
and  circumference  20,  three  or  four  feet  above  the  ground  ; 
and  here  I  see  for  the  first  time  the  white  pine,  of  which 
there  are  some  magnificent  trees.  Hemlock  spruce  is  among 
the  timber,  occasionally  as  large  as  eight  feet  in  diameter, 
four  feet  above  the  ground;  but,  in  ascending,  it  tapers 
rapidly  to  less  than  one  foot  at  the  height  of  eighty  feet. — 
I  have  not  seen  any  higher  than  130  feet,  and  the  slight 
upper  part  is  frequently  broken  off  by  the  wind.  The  white 
spruce  is  frequent ;  and  the  red  pine  (j^inus  Colorado  of  the 
Mexicans)  which  constitutes  the  beautiful  forest  along  the 
banks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  northAvard,  is  here  the 
principal  tree,  not  attaining  a  greater  height  than  140  feet, 
though  with  sometimes  a  diameter  of  ten.  Most  of  these 
trees  appeared  to  differ  slightly  from  those  of  the  same  kind 
on  the  other  side  of  the  continent. 

The  elevation  of  the  camp  by  the  boiling  point,  is  8,050 
feet.  We  are  now  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  South 
Pass  in  the  Rocky  mountain  ;  and  still  we  are  not  done  as- 
cending. The  top  of  a  fiat  ridge  near  was  bare  of  sno>., 
and  very  well  sprinkled  with  bunch-grass,  sufficient  to  pas- 
ture the  animals  two  or  three  days ;  and  this  was  to  be  their 
main  point  of  support.  This  ridge  is  composed  of  a  com- 
pact trap,  or  basalt  of  a  columnar  structure  ;  over  the  sur- 
face are  scattered  large  boulders  of  porus  trap.  The  hills 
are  in  many  places  entirely  covered  with  small  fragments  of 
volcanic  rock. 


^m 


iw»:£9 


TEH    TEARS    IN    OREGON. 


409 


Putting  on  on  our  snow-shoes,  Ave  spent  the  afternoon  in 
exploring  a  road  ahead.  The  glare  of  the  snow,  combined 
with  great  fatigue,  had  rendered  many  people  nearly  blind  ; 
but  we  were  fortunate  in  having  some  black  silk  handker- 
chiefs, which,  worn  as  veils,  very  much  relieved  the  eye. 

11th, — Hijfh  wind  continued,  and  our  trail  this  morning 
was  nearly  invisible — here  and  there  indicated  by  a  little 
ridge  of  snow.  Our  situation  became  tiresome  and  dreary, 
requiring  a  strong  exercise  of  patience  and  resolution. 

In  the  evening  I  received  a  message  from  Mr.  Fitzpatric':» 
acquainting  me  with  the  utter  failure  of  his  attempt  to  get 
our  mules  and  horses  over  the  snow — the  half  hidden  trail 
had  proved  entirely  too  slight  to  support  them,  and  they  had 
broken  through,  and  were  plunging  about  or  lying  half  bu- 
ried in  snow.  He  was  occupied  in  endeavoring  to  get  them 
back  to  his  camp  ;  arid  in  the  mean  time  sent  to  me  for  fur- 
ther instructions.  I  wrote  to  him  to  send  the  animals  imme- 
diately back  to  their  old  pastures  ;  and  after  having  made 
mauls  and  shovels,  turn  in  all  the  strength  of  his  party  to 
open  and  beat  a  road  through  the  snow,  strengthening  it 
with  branches  and  boughs  of  the  pines. 

12th. — We  made  mauls,  and  worked  hard  at  our  end  of 
the  road  all  day.  The  wind  was  high,  but  the  sun  bright, 
and  the  snow  thawing.  We  worked  down  the  face  of  the 
hill,  to  meet  the  people  at  the  other  end.  Towards  sun- 
down it  began  to  grow  cold,  anjj  we  shouldered  our  raauls 
and  trudged  back  to  camp, 

13th. — AVe  continued  to  labor  on  the  road;  and  in  the 
course  of  the  day  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  people 
working  down  the  face  of  the  opposite  hill,  about  three 
miles  distant.  During  the  morning  we  had  the  pleasure  of 
a  visit  from  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  with  the  information  that  all 
was  going  on  well.  A  party  of  Indians  had  passed  on  snow- 
shoes,  who  said  they  were  going  to  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain  after  fish.  This  was  an  indication  that  the  salmon 
were  coming  up  the  streams  ;  and  we  could  hardly  restrain 
our  impatience  as  we  thought  of  them,  and  worked  with  in- 
creased vigor. 

The  meat  train  did  not  arrive  this  evening,  and  I  gave 
Godey  leave  to  kill  our  little  dog,  (Tlamath,)  which  he  pre- 
pared in  Indian  fashion  ;  scorching  off  the  hair,  and  wash- 
ing the  skin  with  soap  and  snow,  and  then  cutting  it  up  into 
pieces  which  were  laid  on  the  snow.     Shortly  afterwards, 


410 


TEN    YEARS    LN    OUEGON. 


1 

4l^ 

^■i* 

* 

r5\ 

,  t  » 

the  sleigh  arrived  with  a  supply  of  horse-meat ;  and  we  had 
to-night  an  extraordinary  dinner — pea-soup,  mule  and  dog. 

14th — The  dividing  ridge  of  the  Sierra  is  in  sight  from 
this  encampment.  Accompanied  by  Mr.  Preuss,  I  ascended 
to-day  the  highest  peak  to  the  right;  from  which  we  had  a 
beautiful  view  of  a  mountain  lake  at  our  feet,  about  fifteen 
miles  in  length,  and  so  e.itircly  surrounded  by  mountains 
that  Ave  could  not  di. cover  an  outlet.  We  had  taken  with 
us  a  glass ;  but  though  we  enjoyed  an  extended  view,  the 
valley  was  half  hidden  in  mist,  as  when  we  had  seen  it  be- 
fore. Snovr  could  be  distinguished  on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
coast  mountains ;  eastward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  extend, 
it  ranged  over  a  terrible  mass  of  broken  snowy  mountains, 
fading  off  blue  in  the  distance.  The  rock  composing  the 
summit  consists  of  a  very  coarse,  dark,  volcanic  conglomer- 
ate ;  the  lower  parts  appeared  of  a  slaty  structure.  The 
highest  trees  were  a  few^  scattered  cedars  and  aspens.  From 
the  immediate  foot  of  the  peak,  we  were  two  hours  reaching 
the  summit,  and  one  hour  and  a  quarter  in  descending.  The 
day  had  been  very  bright,  still,  and  clear,  and  spring  seems 
to  be  advancing  rapidly.  While  the  sun  is  in  the  sky,  the 
snow  melts  rapidly,  and  gushing  springs  cover  the  face  of 
the  mountain  in  all  the  exposed  places ;  but  their  surface 
freezes  instantly  with  the  disappearance  of  the  sun. 

I  obtained  to-night  some  observations  ;  and  the  result 
from  these,  and  others  made  during  our  stay,  gives  for  the 
latitude  38°  41'  5l",  longitude  120°  25'  57",  and  rate  of 
the  chronometer  25.82". 

loth. — We  had  succeeded  in  getting  our  animals  safely 
to  the  first  grassy  hill ;  and  this  morning  I  started  with  Ja- 
cob on  a  reconnoitering  expedition  beyond  the  mountain. — 
We  traveled  along  the  crests  of  narrow  ridges,  extending 
down  from  the  mountain  in  the  direction  of  the  valley,  from 
which  the  snow  was  fast  melting  away.  On  the  open  spots 
was  tolerably  good  grass ;  and  I  judged  we  should  succeed 
in  getting  the  camp  down  by  way  of  these.  Towards  sun- 
down we  discovered  some  icy  spots  in  a  deep  hollow  ;  and, 
descending  th^  mountain,  we  encamped  on  the  head-Avater 
of  a  little  creek,  where  at  last  the  water  found  its  way  to 
the  Pacific. 

The  night  was  clear  and  very  long.  We  heard  the  '^ries 
of  some  Avild  animals,  which  had  been  attracted  by  our  tire, 
and  a  flock  of  geese  passed  over  during  the  night.     Even 


*t        *. 


-^'^ 


TEN    YEAUS    IK    OREGON. 


411 


iaching 
The 


these  strange  sounds  had  something  pleasant  to  our  senses 
in  this  region  of  silence  and  desolation. 

We  started  again  early  in  the  morning.  The  creek  ac- 
(^uired  a  regular  breadth  o^  about  twenty  feet,  and  we  soon 
began  to  hear  the  rushing  of  the  water  below  the  icy  sur- 
face, over  which  we  traveled  to  avoid  the  snow  ;  a  few  miles 
beloAV  Ave  broke  through,  where  the  water  was  several  feet 
deep,  and  halted  to  make  a  fire  and  dry  our  clothes.  We 
continued  a  few  miles  farther,  walking  being  very  laborious 
without  snow-shoes. 

I  was  now  perfectly  satisfied  that  we  had  struck  the 
stream  on  which  Mr.  Sutter  lived  ;  and  turning  about,  made 
a  hard  push,  and  reached  the  camp  at  dark.  Here  we  had 
the  pleasure  to  find  all  the  remaining  animals,  6*7  in  number, 
safely  arrived  at  the  grassy  hill  near  the  camp  ;  and  here, 
also,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  with  the  sight  of  an  abun- 
dance of  salt.  Some  of  the  horse-guard  had  gone  to  a 
neighboring  hut  for  pine  nuts,  and  discovered  unexpectedly 
a  large  cake  of  very  white  fine-grained  salt,  which  the  In- 
dians told  them  they  had  brought  from  the  other  side  of  the 
mountain  ;  they  used  it  to  eat  with  their  pine  nvts,  and  read- 
ily sold  it  for  goods. 

On  the  19th,  the  people  were  occupied  in  making  a  road 
and  bringing  up  the  baggage ;  and,  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
next  day,  February  20,  1844,  we  encamped,  with  the  ani- 
mals and  all  the  materiel  of  the  camp,  on  the  summit  of 
the  Pass  in  the  dividing  ridge,  1,000  miles  by  our  traveled 
road  from  the  Dalles  to  the  Columbia. 

The  people  who  had  not  yet  been  to  this  point,  climed  the 
neighboring  peak  to  enjoy  a  look  at  the  valley. 

The  temperature  of  boiling  water  gave  for  the  elevation 
of  the  encampment,  9,338  feet  above  the  sea. 

This  was  two  thousand  feet  higher  than  the  South  Pass 
in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  several  peaks  in  view  rose  sev- 
eral thousand  feet  still  higher.  Thus  at  the  extremity  of 
the  continent,  and  near  the  coast,  the  phenomenon  was  seen 
of  a  range  of  mountains  still  higher  than  the  great  Rocky 
mountains  themselves.  This  extraordinary  fact  accounts  for 
the  Great  Basin,  and  shows  that  there  must  be  a  system  of 
small  lakes  and  rivers  here  scattered  over  a  flat  country,  and 
which  the  extended  and  lofty  range  of  the  Sierra  Xevada 
prevents  from  escaping  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  Latitude  38° 
44' ;  longitude  120°  28'. 


f 


412 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


Thus  tlic  pass  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  so  well  de- 
serves its  name  of  Snowy  mountain,  is  eleven  degrees  west 
and  about  four  degrees  south  of  the  South  Pass. 

21st. — We  now  considered  ourselves  victorious  over  the 
mountain  ;  having  only  the  descent  before  us,  and  the  val- 
ley under  our  eyes,  we  felt  strong  hope  that  we  should  force 
our  way  down.  But  this  was  a  case  in  which  the  descent 
was  not  facile.  Still  deep  fields  of  snow  lay  between  ihem, 
and  there  was  a  large  intervening  space  of  rough-looking 
mountains,  through  which  wc  had  yet  to  wind  our  way. — 
Carson  roused  me  this  morning  with  an  early  fire,  and  we 
were  all  up  long  before  day,  in  order  to  pass  the  snow 
fields  before  the  sun  should  render  the  crust  soft.  We  en- 
joyed this  morning  a  scene  at  sunrise,  which  even  here  was 
unusually  glorious  and  beautiful.  Immediately  above  the 
eastern  mountains  was  repeated  a  cloud-formed  mass  of 
purple  ranges,  bordered  with  bright  yellow  gold  ;  the  peaks 
shot  up  into  a  narrow  line  of  crimson  cloud,  above  which 
the  air  was  filled  with  a  greenish  orange  ;  and  over  all  was 
the  singular  beauty  of  the  blue  sky.  Passing  along  a  ridge 
which  commanded  the  lake  on  our  right,  of  which  we  began 
to  discover  an  outlet  through  a  chasm  on  the  west,  we 
passed  over  alternating  open  ground  and  hard  crusted  snow- 
fields  which  siipported  the  animals,  and  encamped  on  the 
ridge,  after  a  journey  of  six  miles.  The  grass  was  better 
than  we  had  yet  seen,  and  we  were  encamped  in  a  clump  of 
trees  20  or  30  feet  high,  resembling  white  pine.  With  the 
exception  of  these  small  clumps,  the  ridges  were  bare  ;  and 
where  the  snow  found  the  support  of  the  trees,  the  wind 
had  blown  it  up  iato  banks  10  or  15  feet  high.  It  required 
much  care  to  hunt  out  a  practicable  way,  as  the  most  open 
places  frequently  led  to  impassable  banks. 

We  had  hard  and  doubtful  labor  yet  before  us,  as  the 
snow  appeared  to  be  heavier  where  the  timber  began  fur- 
ther doAvn,  with  few  open  spots.  Ascending  a  height,  w^e 
traced  out  the  best  line  we  could  discover  for  the  next  day's 
march,  and  had  at  least  the  consoLition  to  see  that  the  moun- 
tain descended  rapidly.  The  day  had  been  one  of  April — 
gusty,  with  a  few  occasional  flakes  of  snow — which,  in  the 
afternoon,  enveloped  the  upper  mountain  in  clouds.  We 
watched  them  anxiously,  and  noAV  Ave  dreaded  a  snow-storm. 
Shortly  afterwards  we  heard  the  roll  of  thunder,  and,  look- 
ing towards  the  valley,  found  it  enveloped  in  a  thunder- 


TEN    YEARS    IN    ORKOON. 


413 


storm.  For  us,  as  connected  with  the  idea  of  summer,  it 
had  a  singular  charm,  and  we  Avatclied  its  progrt'ss  with  ex- 
cited feehngs  until  nearly  sunset,  when  the  sky  cleared  off 
brightly,  and  wo  saw  a  shining  line  of  water  directing  its 
course  towards  another,  a  broader  and  larger  sheet.  We 
knew  that  these  could  be  no  other  than  the  Sacrimento  and 
the  IJay  of  San  Francisco  ;  but,  after  our  long  wandering 
in  rugged  mountains,  where  so  frecjuently  we  had  met  with 
disapj)ointments,  and  where  the  crossing  of  every  ridge  dis- 
played some  unknown  lake  or  river,  we  were  yet  almost 
afraid  to  believe  that  we  were  at  last  to  escape  into  the  ge- 
nial country  of  which  we  had  heard  so  many  glowing  de- 
scriptions, and  dreaded  to  find  some  vast  intei  ior  lake,  whose 
bitter  waters  would  bring  us  disappointment.  On  the  south- 
ern shore  of  what  appeared  to  be  the  bay  could  be  traced 
the  gleaming  line  where  entered  another  large  stream  ;  and 
again  the  Buenaventura  rose  up  in  our  minds. 

Carson  had  entered  the  valley  along  the  southern  side  of 
the  bay,  and  remembered  perfectly  to  have  crossed  the 
mouth  of  a  very  large  stream,  which  they  had  been  obliged 
to  rait ;  but  the  country  then  was  so  entirely  covered  with 
water  from  snow  and  rain,  that  he  had  been  able  to  form  no 
correct  impressions  of  water- courses. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  at  least  there  were 
people  below.  Fires  were  lit  up  in  the  valley  just  at  night, 
appearing  to  be  in  answer  to  ours  :  and  these  signs  of  life 
renewed,  in  some  measure,  the  gayety  of  the  camp.  They 
appeared  so  near,  that  we  judged  them  to  be  among  the  lim- 
ber of  some  of  the  neighboring  ridges  ;  but,  having  them 
constantly  in  view  day  after  day,  and  night  after  night,  we 
afterwards  found  them  to  be  fires  that  had  been  kindled  by 
the  Indians  among  the  tulares,  on  the  shore  of  th*.  bay,  80 
miles  distant. 

Among  the  very  few  plants  that  appeared  here,  was  the 
common  blue  flax.     To-night  a  mule  was  killed  for  food. 

22d, — Our  breakfast  was  over  long  before  day.  We  took 
advantage  of  the  coolness  of  the  early  morning  to  get  over 
the  snow,  which  to-day  occurred  in  very  deep  banks  among 
the  timber;  but  we  searched  out  the  coldest  places,  and 
the  animals  passed  successfully  with  their  loads  over  the 
hard  crust.  Now  and  then  the  delay  of  making  a  road  oc- 
casioned much  labor  and  loss  of  time.  In  the  after  part 
of  the  day,  we  saw  before  us  a   handsome  grassy  ridge 


.'■j'  'i 


'Hi 

Mi 


I' 


414 


TEN   YEARS    IN    ORREOON. 


1 


^M,: 


V.  • 


■.'■•■■".■'V'j 


point ;  and  makiiiLf  a  dcsperato  pusli  over  a  snow-fiold  ton  or 
Hfteen  feet  deep,  wc  happily  succeeded  in  getting  the  camp 
across,  and  encamped  on  the  ridg<>,  after  a  march  of  tliree 
miles.  Wo  had  again  the  prospect  of  a  thunder-storm  be- 
low, and  to-night  we  killed  another  mule — now  our  only  re- 
source from  starvation. 

We  satisfied  ourselves  during  the  day  tliat  the  lake  liad 
an  oiithit  between  two  rani^es  on  the  ri'_cht ;  and  "with  this 
the  creek  on  which  I  had  encamped  prob;ibly  effected  a 
junction  below.     Between  these  Ave  were  descending. 

We  continued  to  enjoy  the  same  delightful  weather  ;  the 
sky  of  the  same  beautiful  blue,  and  such  a  sunset  and  sun- 
rise as  on  our  Atlantic  coast  we  could  scarcely  imagine. — 
And  here  among  the  mountains,  9,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
we  have  the  deep  blue  sky  and  .sunny  climate  of  Smyrna 
and  I*alermo,  which  a  little  map  before  me  shows  are  in  the 
same  latitude. 

Elevation  above  the  sea,  by  theboiling  point,  is  8,505  feet. 

23d. — This  was  our  most  difficult  day;  we  were  forced 
ofY  the  ridges  by  the  quantity  of  snow  among  the  timber, 
and  obliged  to  take  to  the  mountain  sides,  where  occasion- 
ally rocks  and  a  southern  exposure  afforded  us  a  chance  to 
scramble  along.  But  these  were  steep,  and  slippery  with 
snow  and  ice  ;  and  the  tough  evergreens  of  the  mountain 
impeded  our  way,  tore  our  skins,  and  exhausted  our  pa- 
tience. Some  of  us  had  the  misfortune  to  wear  moccasins 
with  parjleche  soles,  so  slippery  that  we  could  not  keep  our 
feet,  and  generally  crawled  across  the  snow-beds.  Axes 
and  mauls  were  necessary  to-day,  to  make  a  road  through 
the  snow.  Going  ahead  with  Carson  to  reconnoitre  the 
road,  Ave  reached  in  the  afternoon  the  river  which  made  the 
outlet  of  the  lake.  Carh.>'>A  sprang  over,  clear  across  a  place 
where  the  stream  was  coapressed  among  rocks,  but  the 
2)arjleche  sole  of  my  moccasin  glanced  from  the  icy  rock, 
and  precipitated  rre  into  the  river.  It  was  some  fcAV  sec- 
onds before  I  could  recover  myself  in  the  current,  and  Car- 
son, thinking  me  hurt,  jumped  in  after  me,  and  we  both  had 
an  icy  bath.  We  tried  to  search  awhile  for  my  gun,  which 
had  been  lost  in  the  fall,  but  the  cold  drove  us  out ;  and  ma- 
king a  large  fire  on  the  bank,  after  Ave  had  partially  dried 
ourselves  avc  Avent  back  to  meet  the  camp.  We  afterwards 
found  that  the  gun  had  been  slung  under  the  ice  which 
lined  the  banks  of  the  creek. 


»«<••■ 


TEN   YNARS    ly    OIIEOON. 


415 


;  Iho 
suii- 


Using  our  old  plan  of  breaking  roads  -with  alternate  lior- 
scs,  we  reached  the  creek  in  the  evening,  and  encamped  on 
a  dry  open  place  in  the  ravine. 

Anotiier  branch  which  Ave  had  followed,  here  comes  in  on 
the  left;  and  from  this  point  the  mountain  wall,  on  which 
AV(!  had  traveled  to-day,  faces  to  the  south  along  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  where  the  sun  appears  to  have  melted 
the  snnw ;  but  the  opposite  ridge  is  entirely  covered. — 
Here  among  the  pines,  the  hill  side  produces  but  little  grass 
— barely  sufficient  to  keep  life  in  the  animals.  We  had  the 
pleasure  to  be  rained  upon  this  afternoon  ;  and  grass  was 
now  our  greatest  solicitude.  Many  of  the  men  looked  badly  ; 
and  some  this  evenin<r  were  jjivintj  out. 

24th. — We  rose  at  three  in  the  morning,  for  an  astronom- 
ical observation,  and  obtained  for  the  place  a  lat.  of  08°  40' 
58".  The  sky  was  clear  and  pure,  with  a  sharp  wind  from 
the  northeast,  and  thermometer  2*^  below  the  freezing  point. 

We  continued  down  the  south  face  of  the  mountain  ;  our 
road  leading  over  dry  ground,  we  were  able  to  avoid  the 
snow  almost  entirely.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  we 
struck  a  foot  path,  which  wo  were  generally  able  to  keep ; 
and  the  ground  was  soft  to  our  animals'  feet,  being  sandy 
or  covered  with  mould.  Green  grass  began  to  make  its  ap- 
pearance, and  occasionally  we  found  a  hill  scatteringly  cov- 
ered with  it.  The  character  of  the  forest  continued  the  same  ; 
and,  among  the  trees,  the  pine  with  sharp  leaves  and  very 
large  cones  was  abundant,  some  of  them  being  noble  trees. 
We  measured  one  that  had  ten  feet  diameter,  though  the 
height  was  not  more  than  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  All 
along,  the  river  was  a  roaring  torrent,  its  fall  very  great ; 
and,  descending  with  a  rapidity  to  Avhich  we  had  long  been 
strangers,  to  our  great  pleasure  oak  trees  appeared  on  the 
ridge,  and  soon  became  very  frequent ;  on  these  I  remarked 
great  quantities  of  mistletoe.  Hushes  began  to  make  their 
appearance  ;  and  at  a  sm"U  creek  where  they  were  abundant, 
one  of  the  messes  was  left  with  the  weakest  horses,  while 
we  continued  on. 

The  opposite  mountain  side  was  very  steep  and  continuous 
— unbroken  by  ravines,  and  co\ered  with  pines  and  snow  ; 
Avhile  on  the  side  we  were  traveling,  innumerable  rivulets 
poured  down  from  the  ridge.  Continuing  on,  we  halted  a 
moment  at  one  of  these  rivulets,  to  admire  some  beautiful 
evergreen  trees,  resembling  live  oak,  which  shaded  the  little 


•410 


TEN    YEARS    I'X    OREGON. 


stream.  They  were  forty  to  fifty  feet  high,  and  two  hi  diam- 
eter, with  a  uniform  tufted  top  ;  and  the  ..ummer  green  of 
their  beautiful  foliage,  "vvith  the  singing  birds,  and  the  sweet 
summer  wind  which  Avas  whirling  about  the  dry  oak  leaves, 
nearly  intoxicated  us  with  delight ;  and  we  hurried  on,  filled 
with  excitement,  to  escape  entirely  from  the  horrid  region  of 
inhospitable  snow,  to  the  perpetual  spring  of  the  Sacramento, 

When  we  had  traveled  about  ten  miles,  the  valley  opened 
a  little  to  an  oak  and  pine  bottom,  through  which  ran  rivu- 
lets closely  bordered  with  rushes,  on  which  our  half-starved 
horses  fell  with  avidity  ;  and  here  we  made  our  encampment. 
Here  the  roaring  torrent  har)  already  become  a  river,  and  we 
had  descended  to  an  elevation  of  3,801:  feet. 

Along  our  road  to-day  the  rock  was  a  white  granite, 
which  appears  to  constitute  the  upper  parts  of  the  moun- 
tains on  both  the  eastern  and  western  slopes  ;  while  between, 
the  central  is  a  volcanic  rock. 

Another  horse  was  killed  to-night,  for  food. 

2oth — Believing  that  the  difficulties  of  the  road  were  pas- 
sed, and  leaving  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  to  follow  slowly,  as  the  con- 
dition of  the  animals  required,  I  started  ahead  this  morning 
with  a  party  of  eight,  consisting  of  myself,  Mr.  Preuss  and 
Mr.  Talbot,  Carson,  Derosier,  Towns,  Proue,  and  Jacob. — 
We  look  with  us  some  of  the  best  animals,  and  my  intention 
was  to  proceed  as  rapidly  as  possible  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Sutter,  and  return  to  meet  the  party  with  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions and  fresh  animals. 

Continuing  down  the  river,  Tfhich  pursued  a  very  direct 
westerly  course  through  a  narrow  valley,  with  only  a  very 
slight  and  narrow  bott  )m-b.nd,  we  made  twelve  miles,  and 
encamped  at  some  old  Indian  huLs,  apparently  a  fishing- 
place  on  the  river.  The  bottom  was  covered  with  trees  of 
deciduous  foliage,  and  overgrown  with  vmes  and  rushes. — 
On  a  bench  of  the  hill  near  bj,  was  a  hi  1  of  fresh  green 
grass,  six  inches  long  in  some  of  the  t'lfts  which  I  had  .he 
curiosity  to  measure.  The  animals  were  driven  here  ;  and 
I  spent  part  of  the  afternoon  sitting  on  a  large  rock  among 
them,  enjoying  the  pauseless  rapidity  with  which  they  luxu- 
riated on  the  unaccustomed  food. 

The  forest  was  imposing  to-day  in  the  magnificence  of 
thd  trees  ;  some  of  the  pines  bearing  large  cones,  were  ten 
feet  in  diam^ler.  Cedars  also  abounded,  and  we  mer  -urud 
one  twenty-eight  and  a  half  feet  in  circumference,  fo^i  feet 


^"> 


■WW 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


41' 


from  the  ground.  This  noble  tree  seemed  here  to  be  in  its 
proper  soil  and  cUmate.  We  found  it  on  both  sides  of  the 
Sierra,  but  most  abundant  on  the  west. 

26th. — We  continued  to  follow  the  stream,  the  mountains 
on  either  hand  increasing  in  height  as  we  descended,  and 
shutting  up  the  river  narrowly  in  precipices,  along  which 
we  had  great  difficulty  to  get  our  horses. 

It  rained  heavily  during  the  afternoon,  and  we  were  forced 
off  the  river  to  the  heights  above  ;  whence  we  descended, 
at  night-fall,  the  point  of  a  spur  between  the  river  and  a 
fork  of  nearly  equal  size,  coming  in  from  the  right.  Here 
we  saw,  on  the  lower  hils,  the  first  flowers  in  blocm,  which 
occurred  suddenly,  and  in  considerable  quantity — one  of 
them  a  species  of  gilia. 

The  current  in  both  streams  (rather  torrents  than  rivers) 
was  broken  by  large  boulders.  It  was  late  and  the  animals 
fatigued  ;  and  not  succeeding  to  find  a  ford  immediately,  we 
encamped,  although  the  hill-side  afforded  but  a  few  stray 
bunches  of  grass,  and  the  horses,  standing  about  in  the  rain, 
looked  very  miserable. 

27th.  —We  succeeded  in  fording  the  stream,  and  made  a 
trail  \)y  which  we  crossed  the  point  of  the  opposite  hill, 
which,  on  the  southern  exposure,  was  prettily  covered  with 
green  grass,  and  we  halted  a  mile  from  our  last  encamp- 
ment. The  river  was  only  about  sixty  feet  wide,  but  rapid, 
and  occasionally  deep,  foaming  among  boulders,  and  the  wa- 
ter beautifully  clear.  We  en  -amped  on  the  hill-slope,  ao 
there  was  no  bottom  level,  and  the  opposite  ridge  is  con- 
tinuous, affording  no  streams. 

We  had  with  us  a  large  kettle  ;  and  a  mule  being  killed 
here,  his  head  was  boiled  in  it  for  several  hours,  and  made 
a  passable  soup  for  famished  people. 

Below,  precipices  on  the  river  forced  us  to  the  heights, 
which  we  ascended  by  a  steep  spur,  2,000  feet  high.  My 
favor'te  horse,  Proveau,  had  become  very  weak,  and  was 
8C8rc*^ly  able  to  bring  himself  to  the  top.  Travelling  here 
was  good,  except  in  crossing  the  ravines,  which  were  nar- 
row, steep,  and  frequent.  We  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer, 
the  first  animal  we  had  seta;  but  did  not  succeed  in  ap- 
proaching him.  Proveau  could  not  keep  up,  and  I  left  Ja- 
cob to  bring  him  on,  being  obliged  to  press  forward  with 
the  party,  as  there  was  no  grass  in  the  forest.  We  grew 
27 


418 


TEN   YEARS   IN    OREGON. 


very  anxious  as  the  day  advanced  and  no  grass  appeared, 
for  the  Uves  of  our  animals  depended  on  finding  it  to-night. 
They  were  in  just  such  a  condition  that  grass  and  repose  for 
the  night  enabled  them  to  get  on  the  next  day.     Every 
hour  we  had  been  expecting  to  see  open  out  before  us  the 
valley,  which,  from  the  mountain  above,  seemed  almost  at 
our  feet.     Anew  and  singular  shrub,  which  had  made  its 
appearance  since  crossing  the  mountain,  was  very  frequent 
to-day.     It  branched  out  near  the  ground,  iorming  a  clump 
eight  to  ten  feet  high,  with  pale -green  leaves,  of  an  oval 
form  ;  and  the  body  aud  branches  had  a  naked  appearance, 
as  if  stripped  of  the  bark,  which  is  very  smooth  and  thin, 
of  a  chocolate  color,  contrasting  well  with  the  pale-green  of 
the  leaves.     The  day  was  nearly  gone  ;  we  had  made  a  hard 
day's  march,  and  found  no  grass.     Towns   became  light- 
headed, wandering   off  into  the   woods   witbout   knowing 
where  he  was  going,  and  Jacob  brought  him  back , 

Near  night-fall  we  descended  into  the  steep  ravine  o(  a 
handsome  creek  30  feet  wide,  and  I  was  engaged  in  getting 
the  horses  up  the  opposite  hill,  when  I  heard  a  shout  from 
Carson,  who  had  gone  ahead  a  few  hundred  yards — "  Life 
yet,"  said  he,  as  he  came  up,  "life  yet ;  I  have  found  a  hill- 
side sprinkled  with  grass  enough  for  ihe  night."  We  drove 
along  our  horses,  and  er-  ampeci  at  the  place  about  dark, 
and  there  was  just  room  enough  to  make  a  place  for  shelter 
on  the  edge  of  the  stream.  Three  horses  were  lost  to-day 
— Proveau  ;  a  fine  young  horse  from  the  Columbia,  belong- 
ing to  Charles  Towns ;  and  another  Indian  horse,  which 
carried  our  cooking  utensils.  The  two  former  gave  out,  and 
the  latter  strayed  off  into  the  woods  as  we  reached  the 
camp. 

29th — ^We  lay  shut  up  in  the  narrow  ravine,  and  gave  the 
animals  a  necessary  day ;  and  men  were  sent  back  after  the 
others.  Derosier  volunteered  to  bring  up  Proveau,  to 
whom  he  knew  I  was  greatly  attached,  as  he  had  been  my 
favorite  horse  on  both  expeditions.  Carson  and  I  climbed 
one  of  the  nearest  mountains ;  the  forest  land  still  extended 
ahead,  and  the  valley  appeared  as  far  as  ever;  The  pack 
horse  was  found  near  the  camp ;  but  Derosier  did  not  get 
in. 

Marcpt  1st. — Derosier  did  not  get  in  during  the  night, 
follow,  as  no  srrass  remained  here,  we 


I 


ivmg 


grass 


TEX   YEARS   IN    OREGON 


419 


)peared, 
0 -night. 
;pose  for 
Every 
e  us  tlie 
Imost  at 
made  its 
frequent 
a  clump 
an  oval 
ea-rance, 
md  thin, 
green  of 
e  a  hard 
le  light- 
knowing 

■  ine  of  a 
1  getting 
)ut  from 
=— "  Life 
nd  a  hill- 
Ve  drove 
aut  dark, 
►r  shelter 
st  to-day 
,  belong- 
ie,  which 
out,  and 
ihed  the 

gave  the 
after  the 
veau,  to 
been  my 
climbed 
t^xtended 
rhe  pack 
'.  not  get 

le  night, 
here,  we 


*J 


continued  on  over  the  uplands,  crossing  many  small  streams, 
and  camped  again  on  the  river,  having  made  six  miles. — 
Here  we  found  the  hill  side  covered  (although  lightly)  with 
fresh  green  grass  ;  and  from  this  time  forward  we  found  it 
always  improving  and  abimdant. 

We  made  a  pleasant  camp  oa  the  river  hill,  where  were 
some  beautiful  specimens  of  the  chocolate-colored  shrub, 
which  were  a  foot  in  diameter  near  the  ground,  and  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  high.  The  opposite  ridge  runs  continuously 
along,  unbroken  by  streams.  We  are  rapidly  descending 
into  the  spring,  and  we  are  leaving  our  snowy  region  far  be- 
hind ;  every  thing  is  getting  green ;  butterflies  are  swarm- 
ing ;  numerous  bugs  are  creeping  out,  wakened  from  their 
winter's  sleep ;  and  the  forest  flowers  are  coming  into 
bloo"^!.  Among  those  which  appeared  most  Humerously  to- 
day was  dodecatheon  dentatum. 

We  began  to  be  uneasy  at  Derosier's  absence,  fearing  he 
might  have  been  bewildered  in  the  woods.  Charles  Towns, 
who  had  not  yet  recovered  his  mind,  went  to  swin  in  the 
river,  as  if  it  were  summer,  and  the  stream  placid,  when  it 
•was  a  cold  mountain  torrent  foaming  among  the  rocks.  We 
were  happy  to  see  Derosier  appear  in  the  evening.  He 
came  in,  and,  sitting  down  by  the  fire,  began  to  tell  us 
where  he  had  been.  He  imagined  he  had  been  gone  sever- 
al days,  and  thought  we  were  still  at  the  camp  where  he 
had  left  us ;  and  we  were  pained  to  see  that  his  mind  was 
deranged.  It  appeared  that  he  had  been  lost  in  the  moun- 
tain, and  hunger  and  fatigue,  joined  to  weakness  of  body 
and  fear  of  perishing  in  the  mountains,  had  crazed  him. — 
The  times  were  severe  when  stout  men  lost  their  minds  from 
extremity  of  suffering — when  horses  died — and  when  mules 
and  horses,  ready  to  die  of  starvation,  were  killed  for  food. 
Yet  there  was  no  murmuring  or  hesitation. 

A  short  distance  below  our  encampment  the  river  moun- 
tains terminated  in  precipices,  and,  after  a  fatiguing  march 
of  only  a  few  miles,  we  encamped  on  a  bench  where  there 
wen;  springs,  and  an  abundance  of  the  freshest  grass.  In 
the  mean  time  Mr.  Preuss  continued  on  down  the  river,  and, 
unaware  that  we  had  encamped  so  early  in  the  day,  was 
lost.  When  night  arrived  and  he  did  not  come  in,  we  be- 
gan to  understand  what  had  happened  to  him  ;  but  it  was 
too  late  to  make  any  search. 


420 


TBN   TEARS  IW  OAEGOIT 


.>  ,f      It  ■ 


"^  ''  ??^  'Til 


3(i. — ^We  followed  Mr.  Preuss'  trail  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance along  the  river,  until  we  reached  a  place  where  he  had 
descended  to  the  stream  below  and  encamped.     Here  we 
shouted  and  fired  guns^  but  received  no  answer  ;  and  we 
concluded  that  he  had  pushed  on  down  the  stream.     I  de- 
termined to  keep  out  from  the  river,  along  which  it  was 
nea,rly  impracticable  to  travel  with  animals,  until  it  should 
form  a  valley.     At   every  step   the   country  improved   in 
beauty  ;  the  pines  were  rapidly  disappearing,  and  oaks  be- 
came the  principal  trees  of  the  forest.     Among  these,  the 
prevailing  tree  was  the  evergreen  oak,  ^which  by  way  of 
distinction,  we  call  the  live-oak  ;)  and  with  these  occurred 
frequently  a  new   species   of  oak  bearing  a  long  slender 
acorn,  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  which 
we  noTV     '■"  •!"  to  see  formed  the  principal  vegetable  food  of 
the   mhat         "    of  this  region.     In  a   short  distance  wc 
crossed  a  hi    ^  rivulet,  where  were  two  old  huts,  and  near 
by  were  heaps  of  acorn-hulls.     The  ground   round  about 
was  very  rich,  covered  with  an  exuberant  sward  of  grass ; 
and  we  sat  down  for  a  while  in  the  shade  of  the  oaks,  to  let 
the  animals  feed.     We  repeated  our  shouts  for  Mr.  Preuss ; 
and  ttiis  time  were  gratified  with  an   answer.     The  voice 
grew  rapidly  nearer,  ascending  from  the  river  ;  but  when  we 
expectisd  to  see  him  emerge,  it  ceased  entirely.     We  had 
called  up  some  straggling  Indian — the  first  we  had  met,  al- 
though for  two  days  back  we  had  seen  tracks — who,  mista- 
king us  for  his  fellows,  had  been  only  undeceived  on  getting 
close  up.     It  would  have  been  pleasant  to  witness  his  as- 
tonishment ;  he  would  not  have  been  more  frightened  had 
some  of  the  old  mountain  spirits  they  are  so  much  afraid  of, 
suddenly''  appeared  in  his  path.     Ignorant  of  the  character 
of  these  people,  we  had  now  an  additional  cause  of  uneasi- 
ness in  regard  to  Mr.  Preuss ;  he  had  no  arms  with  him, 
and  we  began  to  think  his  chance  doubtful.     We  followed 
on  a  trail,  still  keeping  out  from  the  river,  and  descended  to 
a  very  large  creek,  dashing  with  great  velocity  over  a  pre- 
eminently rocky  bed,  and  among  large  boulders.     The  bed 
had   sudden  breaks,  formed  by  deep  holes  and  ledges  of 
rock  runniing  across.     Even  here,  it  deserves  the  name  of 
JRock  creek,  which  we  gave  to  it.     We  succeeded  in  fording 
it,  and  toiled  about  three  thousand  feet  up  the  opposite  hill. 
The  mountains  now  were  getting  sensibly  lower ;  but  still 


TEN  TEARS    IN   OREGON. 


421 


Inhere  "is  no  valley  on  the  river,  which  presents  steep  and 
rocky  banks;  but  here,  several  miles  from  the  river,  the 
country  is  smooth  and  grassy ;  the  forest  has  no  under- 
growth ;  and  in  the  open  valleys  of  rivulets,  or  around 
sp'ing-heads,  the  low  groves  of  live-oak  give  the  appear- 
ance of  orchards  in  an  old  cultivated  oountry.  Occasionally 
we  met  deer,  but  had  not  the  necessary  time  for  hunting. — 
At  one  of  these  orchard  grounds,  we  encamped  about  noon 
to  make  an  effort  for  Mr.  Preuss.  One  man  took  his  way 
along  a  spur  leading  into  the  river,  in  hope  to  cross  his  trail ; 
and  another  took  our  own  back.  Both  were  volunteers  :  and 
to  the  successful  man  was  promised  a  pair  of  pistols — not 
as  a  reward,  but  as  a  token  of  gratitude  for  a  service  which 
would  free  us  all  from  much  anxiety. 

We  had  among  our  few  animals  a  horse  which  was  so 
much  reduced,  that,  with  travehng,  even  the  good  grass 
could  not  save  him ;  and,  having  nothing  to  eat,  he  was 
killed  this  afternoon.  He  was  a  good  animal,  and  had 
made  the  journey  round  from  Fort  Hall. 

Dodecatheon  dentatum  continued  the  characteristic  plant 
in  flower  ;  and  the  naked  looking  shrub  already  mentioned 
continued  characteristic,  beginning  to  put  forth  a  small 
white  blossom.  At  evening  the  men  returned,  having  seen 
or  heard  nothing  of  Mr.  Preuss  ;  and  I  determined  to  make 
a  hard  push  down  the  river  the  next  morning  and  get  ahead 
of  him. 

4th. — We  continued  rapidly  along  on  a  broad  plainly- 
beaten  trail,  the  mere  traveling  and  breathing  the  delight- 
ful air  being  a  positive  enjoyment.  Our  road  led  along  a 
ridge  inclining  to  the  river,  and  the  air  and  the  open  grounds 
were  fragrant  with  flowering  shrubs  ;  and  in  the  course  of 
the  morning  we  issued  on  an  open  spur,  by  which  we  de- 
scended directly  to  the  stream.  Here  the  river  issues  sud- 
denly from  the  mountains,  which  hitherto  had  hemmed  it 
closely  in  ;  these  now  become  softer,  and  change  sensibly 
their  character ;  and  at  this  point  commences  the  most  beau- 
tiful valley  in  which  we  had  ever  traveled.  We  hurried  to 
the  river,  on  which  we  noticed  a  small  sand  beach,  to  which 
Mr.  Preuss  would  naturally  have  gone.  We  found  no  trace 
of  him,  but,  instead,  Avere  recent  tracks  of  bare-footed  In- 
dians, and  little  piles  of  muscle  shells,  and  old  fires  where 
-they  had  roasted  the  fisK     We  traveled  on  over  the   river 


422 


TEN   YEARS    IN    OREGON. 


grounds,  which  were  undulating,  and  covered  with  grass  to 
the  river  brink.  We  halted  to  noon  a  few  miles  beyond, 
always  under  the  shade  of  the  evergreen  oaks,  which  formed 
open  groves  on  the  bottoms. 

Continuing  our  road  in  the  afternoon,  we  ascended  to  the 
uplands,  where  the  river  passes  round  a  point  of  great  beauty, 
and  goes  through  very  remarkable  dalles,  in  character  re- 
sembling those  of  the  Columbia.  Beyond,  we  again  de- 
scended to  the  bottoms,  where  we  found  an  Indian  village, 
consisting  of  two  or  three  huts ;  we  had  come  upon  them 
suddenly,  and  the  people  had  evidently  just  run  off.  The 
huts  were  low  and  slight,  made  like  bee-hives  in  a  picture, 
five  or  six  feet  high,  and  near  each  was  a  crate,  formed  of 
interlaced  branches  and  grass,  in  size  and  shape  like  a  very 
large  hogshead.  Each  of  these  contained  from  six  to  nine 
bushels.  These  were  filled  with  the  long  acorns  already 
mentioned,  and  in  the  huts  were  several  neatly  made  bas- 
kets, containing  quantities  of  the  acorns  roasted.  They 
were  sweet  and  agreeably  flavored,  and  we  supplied  our- 
selves with  about  half  a  bushel,  leaving  one  of  our  shirts,  a 
handkerchief,  and  some  smaller  articles,  in  exchange.  The 
river  again  entered  for  a  space  among  the  hills,  and  we  fol- 
lowed a  trail  leading  across  a  bend  through  a  handsome  hol- 
low behind.  Here,  while  engaged  in  trying  to  circumvent  a 
deer,  we  discovered  some  Indians  on  a  hill  several  hundred 
yards  ahead,  and  gave  them  a  shout,  to  which  they  respon- 
ded by  loud  and  rapid  talking  and  vehement  gesticu'iaLion, 
but  made  no  stop,  hurrying  up  the  mountain  as  fast  as  their 
legs  could  carry  them.  We  passed  on  and  again  encamped 
in  a  grassy  grove. 

The  absence  of  Mr.  Preuss  gave  me  great  concern  ;  and, 
for  a  large  reward,  Derosier  volunteered  to  go  back  on  the 
trail.  I  directed  him  to  search  along  the  river,  traveling 
upward  for  the  space  of  a  day  and  a  half,  at  which  time  I 
expected  he  would  meet  Mr.  Fitzpatrick,  whom  I  requested 
to  aid  in  the  search  ;  at  all  events  he  was  to  go  no  farther, 
but  return  to  this  camp,  where  a  caclie  of  provisions  was 
made  for  him. 

Continuing  the  Tiext  day  down  the  river,  we  discovered 
three  squaws  in  a  little  bottom,  and  surrounded  them  before 
they  could  make  their  escape.  They  had  large  conical  bas- 
kets, which  they  were  engaged  in  filling  with  a  small  leafy 


TEN    YEARS    IN    OREGON'. 


423 


rass  to 
eyond, 
"ormed 


plant  (erocUum  clcntarium)  just  now  beginning  to  bloom, 
and  covering  the  ground  like  a  sward  of  grass.  These  did 
not  make  any  lamentations,  but  appeared  very  much  im- 
pressed with  our  appearance,  speaking  to  us  only  in  a  whis- 
per, and  offering  us  smaller  baskets  of  the  plant,  which  they 
signi6cd  to  us  was  good  to  eat,  making  signs  also  that  it  was 
to  be  cooked  by  the  fire.  We  drew  out  a  little  cold  horse 
meat,  and  the  squaws  made  signs  to  us  that  the  men  had 
gone  out  after  deer,  and  that  we  could  have  some  by  wait- 
ing till  they  came  in.  We  observed  that  the  horses  ate  with 
great  avidity  the  herb  which  they  had  been  gathering  ;  and 
here  also,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw  Indians  eat  the  common 
grass — one  of  the  squaws  pulling  several  tufts,  and  eating 
it  with  apparent  relish.  Seeing  our  surprise,  she  pointed  to 
the  horses ;  but  we  could  not  well  understand  what  she 
meant,  except,  perhaps,  that  Avhat  was  good  for  the  one  was 
good  for  the  other. 

We  encamped  in  the  evening  on  the  shore  of  the  river,  at 
a  place  where  the  associated  beauties  of  scenery  made  so 
strong  an  impression  on  us  that  we  gave  it  the  name  of 
Beautiful  Camp.     The  undulating  river  shore  was  shaded 
with  the  live-oaks,  which  formed  a  continuous  grove  over 
the  country,  and  the  same   grassy  sward  extended  to  the 
edge  of  the  water,  and  we  made  our  fires  near  some  large 
granite  masses  which  were  lying  among  the  trees.     We  had 
seen  several  of  the  acorn  caches  during  the  day,  and  here 
there  were  two  which  were  very  large,  containing    each, 
probably,  ten  bushels.     Towards  evening  we  heard  a  weak 
shout  among  the  hills  behind,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  see 
Mr.  Preuss  descending  towards  the  camp.     Like  ourselves, 
he   had  traveled  to-day  25  miles,  but  had  seen  nothing  of 
Derosier.     Knowing,  on  the  day  he  was  lost,  that  I  was  de- 
termined to  keep  the  river  as  much  as  possible,  he  had  not 
thought  it  necessary  to  follow  the  trail  very  closely,  but 
walked  on,  right  and  left,  certain  to  find  it  somewhere  along 
the  river,  searching    places  to   obtain  good   views  of  the 
country.     Towards  sun-set  he  climbed  down  towards  the 
river  to  look  for  the  camp  ;  but,  finding  no  trail,  concluded 
that  we  were  behind,  and  walked  back  till  night  came  on, 
when,  being  very  much  fatigued,  he  collected  drift-wood 
and  made  a  large  fire  among  the  rocks.     The  next  day  it 
became  more  serious,  and  he  encamped  again  alone,  thinking 


42-t 


TEN    YEARS   TN    OREGON. 


that  we  must  have  tcakcn  some  other  course.  To  go  back 
would  have  been  madness  in  his  weak  and  starved  condition, 
and  onward  towards  the  valley  was  his  only  ho])e,  always  in 
expectation  of  reaching  it  soon.  His  principal  means  of 
subsistence  were  a  few  roots,  whicli  the  hunters  call  sweet 
onions,  having  very  httle  taste,  but  a  good  deal  of  nutri- 
ment, growing  generally  in  rocky  ground,  and  requiring  a 
good  deal  of  labor  to  get,  as  he  had  only  a  pocket-knife. — 
Searching  for  these,  he  found  a  nest  of  big  ants,  which  he 
let  run  on  his  hand,  and  stripped  tiiem  oiF  in  his  mouth  ; 
these  had  an  agreeable  acid  taste.  One  of  his  greatest  pri- 
vations was  the  want  of  tobacco  ;  and  a  pleasant  smoke  at 
evening  would  have  been  a  relief  which  only  a  voyageur 
could  appreciate.  He  tried  the  dried  leaves  of  the  live-oak, 
knowing  that  those  of  other  oaks  were  sometimes  used  as  a 
substitute  ;  but  these  were  too  thick,  and  would  not  do. — 
On  the  4th  he  made  seven  or  eight  miles,  walking  slowly 
along  the  river,  avoiding  as  much  as  possible  to  climb  the 
hills.  In  little  pools  he  caught  some  of  the  smallest  kind 
of  frogs,  which  he  swallowed,  not  so  much  in  the  gratifica- 
tion of  hunger,  as  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  some  strength. 
Scattered  along  the  river  were  old  fire-places,  where  the  In- 
dians had  roasted  muscles  and  acorns ;  but  though  he 
searched  diligently,  he  did  not  there  succeed  in  finding  ei- 
ther. He  had  collected  firewood  for  the  night,  when  he 
heard,  at  some  distance  from  the  river,  the  barking  of  what 
he  thought  were  two  dogs,  and  walked  in  that  direction  as 
quickly  as  he  was  able,  hoping  to  find  there  some  Indian 
hut,  but  met  only  two  wolves ;  and,  in  his  disappointment 
the  gloom  of  the  forest  was  doubled. 

Travelling  the  next  day  feebly  down  the  river,  he  found 
five  or  six  Indians  at  the  huts  of  which  we  have  spoken  ; 
some  were  painting  themselves  black,  and  others  roasting 
acorns.  Being  only  one  man,  they  did  not  run  off,  but  re- 
ceived him  kindly,  and  gave  him  a  welcome  supply  of  roasted 
acorns.  He  gave  them  his  pocket-knife  in  return,  and 
stretched  out  his  hand  to  one  uf  the  Indians,  who  did  not 
appear  to  comprehend  the  motion,  but  jumped  back,  as  if 
he  thought  he  was  about  to  lay  hold  of  him.  They  seemed 
afraid  of  him,  not  certain  as  to  what  he  was. 

Travehng  on,  he  came  to  the  place  where  we  had  found 
the  squaws.     Here  he  found  our  fire  still  burning,  and  the 


TEN    YEARS   IN    OREGOy. 


425 


tracks  of  the  horses.  The  sight  gave  him  sudden  hope  and 
courage  ;  and,  following  as  fast  as  he  could,  joined  us  at 
evening. 

6th. — We  continued  on  our  load  throngh  the  same  sur- 
passingly beautiful  country,  entirely  unequalled  for  the  pas- 
turage of  stock  by  any  thing  we  had  ever  seen.  Our  hor- 
ses had  now  become  so  strong  that  they  were  able  to  carry 
us,  and  we  traveled  rapidly — over  four  miles  an  hour  ;  four 
of  us  riding  every  alternate  hour.  Every  few  hundred 
yards  we  came  upon  a  little  band  of  deer ;  but  we  were  too 
eager  to  reach  the  settlement,  which  we  momentarily  ex- 
pected to  discover,  to  halt  for  any  other  than  a  passing 
shot.  In  a  few  hours  we  reached  a  large  fork,  the  northern 
branch  of  the  river,  and  equal  in  size  to  that  which  we  had 
descended.  Together  they  formed  a  beautiful  stream,  GO  to 
100  yards  wide ;  which  at  first,  ignorant  of  the  nature  of 
the  country  through  which  that  river  ran,  we  took  to  be  the 
Sacramento. 

We  continued  down  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  traveling 
for  a  whilo  over  a  wooded  upland,  where  we  had  the  de- 
light to  discover  tracks  of  cattle.  To  the  southwest  was 
visible  a  black  column  of  smoke,  which  we  had  frequently 
noticed  in  descending,  arising  from  the  fires  we  had  seen 
from  the  top  of  the  Sierra.  From  the  upland  we  descended 
into  broad  groves  on  the  river,  consisting  of  the  evergreen, 
and  a  new  species  of  white- oak,  with  a  large  tufted  top,  and 
three  to  six  feet  in  diameter.  Among  these  was  no  brush- 
wood ;  and  the  grassy  surface  gave  to  it  the  appearance  of 
parks  in  an  old  settled  country.  Following  the  tracks  of  the 
horses  f..id  cattle,  in  search  of  people,  we  dis:*  vered  a  village 
of  Indians.  Some  of  these  had  on  shirts  Oi  civilized  man- 
ufacture, but  were  otherwise  naked,  and  we  could  under- 
stand nothing  from  them ;  they  appeared  entirely  astonished 
at  seeing  us. 

We  made  an  acorn  meal  at  noon,  and  hurried  on  ;  the 
valley  being  gay  with  flowers,  and  some  of  the  banks  being 
absolutely  golden  with  the  Californian  poppy,  (eschesckoltzia 
crocea.)  Here  the  grass  was  smooth  and  green,  and  the 
groves  very  open ;  the  large  oaks  throwing  a  broad  shade 
among  sunny  spots.  Shortly  afterwards  we  gave  a  shout  at 
the  appearanc Cr- on  a  little  bluff,  of  a  neatly-built  adobe 
house,  with  glass  windows.     We  rode  up,  but,  to  our  dis- 


420 


TEN   YEARS  IN    OREGON. 


h  \- 


appointment,  found  only  Indians.     There  was  no  appear- 
ance  of  cultivation,  and  we  could  sec  no  cattle ;  and  we 
supposed  the  place  had  been  abandoned.     We  now  pressed 
on  more  eagerly  than  ever :  the  river  swept  round  a  large 
bend  to  the  right ;  the  hills  lowered  down  entirelj'^ ;  and, 
gradually  entering  a  broad  valley,  we  came  unexpectedly 
mto  a  large  Indian  village,  where  the  people  looked  clean, 
and  wore  cotton  shirts  and  various  other  articles  of  dress. 
They  immediately  crowded  around  us,  and  we  had  the  in- 
expressible delight  to  find  one  who  spoke  a  little  indifferent 
Spanish,  but  who  at  first  confounded  us  by  saying  there 
were  no  whites  in  the  country  ;  but  just  then  a  well  dressed 
Indian  came  up,  and  made  his  salutations  in  very  well  spo- 
ken Spanish.     In  answer  to  our  inquiries,  he  informed  us 
that  we  were  upon  the  Bio  de  los  Americanos ,  (the  river  of 
the  Arae"' vciis)   and  that  it  joined  the  Sacramento  river 
about  ten  miles  below.     Never   did  a  name   sound  more 
sweetly !     We  felt  ourselves  among  our  own  countrymen  ; 
for  the  name  of  American,  in  these  distant  parts,  is  applied 
to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States.     To  our  eager  inquiries 
he  answered,  "I  am  a  vaquero  (cowherd)  in  the  service  of 
Capt.  Sutter,  and  the  people  of  this  rancheria  work  for  him." 
Our  evident  satisfaction  made  him  communicative ;  and  he 
went  on  to  say  that  Capt.  Sutter  was  a  very  rich  man,  and 
always  glad  to  see  his  country  people.     We  asked  for  his 
house.     He  answered,  that  it  was  just  over  the  hill  before 
us  ;  and  offered,  if  we  would  wait  a  moment,  to  take  his  horse 
and  conduct  us  to  it.     We  readily  accepted  this  civil  offer. 
In  a  short  distance  we  came  in  sight  of  the  fort ;  and,  pas- 
sing on  the  way  the  house  of  a  settler  on  the  opposite  side, 
(a  Mr.  Sinclair,)  we  forded  the  rive  • ;  and  in  a  few  miles 
were  met,  a  short  distance  from  the  fort,  by  Capt.  Sutter 
himself.     He  gave  us  a  most  frank  and  cordial  reception — 
conducted  us  immediately  to  his  residence — and  under  his 
hospitable  roof  we  had  a  night  of  rest,  '?njoyment,  and  re- 
freshment, which  none  but  ourselves  couLl  appreciate.     But 
the  party  left  in  the  mountains,  with  Mi ,  Fitzpatrick,  were 
to  be  attended  to ;  and  the  next  morning,  supplied  with 
fresh  horses  and  provisions,  I  hurried  off  to  meet  them. — 
On  the  second  day  we  met,  a  few  miles  below  the  forks  of 
the  Rio  de  los  Americanos ;  and  a  more  forlorn  and  pitiable 
sight  than  they  presented,  cannot  well  be  imagined.     They 


msm 


ippear- 
ind  we 


T»N   YEARS    IN   OREGON. 


42: 


were  all  on  foot— each  man,  weak  and  emaciated,  leading  a 
horse  or  mule  as  weak  and  emaciated  as  themselves.  They 
had  experienced  great  difiiculty  in  descending  the  mountains, 
made  slippery  by  rains  and  melting  snows,  and  many  horses 
fell  over  precipices,  and  were  killed  ;  and  with  some  were 
lost  the  packs  they  carried.  Among  these,  was  a  mule  with 
the  plants  which  we  had  collected  since  leaving  Fort  Ilall, 
along  a  line  of  2,000  miles'  travel.  Out  of  G7  horses  and 
mules,  with  which  we  commenced  crossing  the  Sierra,  only 
33  reached  the  valley  of  the  Sacrimento,  and  they  only  in  a 
condition  to  be  led  along.  Mr.  Fitzpatrick  and  his  party, 
traveling  more  slowly,  had  been  able  to  make  some  little  ex- 
ertion at  hunting,  and  had  killed  a  few  deer.  The  scanty 
supply  was  a  great  relief  to  them  ;  for  several  had  been 
made  sick  by  the  strange  and  imwholesome  food  which  the 
preservation  of  life  had  compelled  them  to  use.  We  stopped 
and  encamped  as  soon  as  we  met ;  and  a  repast  of  good 
beef,  excellent  bread,  and  delicious  salmon,  which  I  had 
brought  along,  was  their  first  relief  from  the  suflerings  of 
the  Sierra,  and  their  first  introduction  to  the  luxuries  of  the 
Sacramento.  It  required  all  our  philosophy  and  forbearance 
to  prevent  plent]/  from  becoming  as  hurtful  to  us  now,  as 
scarcihj  had  been  before. 

The  next  day,  March  8th,  we  encamped  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  rivers,  the  Sacramento  and  Americanos;  and 
thus  found  the  whole  party  in  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Sacramento.  It  was  a  convenient  place  for  the  camp  ;  and, 
among  other  things,  was  within  reach  of  the  wood  necessa- 
ry to  make  the  pack-saddles,  which  we  should  need  on  our 
long  journey  home,  from  which  we  were  farther  distant  now 
than  we  were  four  months  before,  when  from  the  Dalles  of 
the  Columbia  we  so  cheerfully  to(^k  up  the  homeward  line 
of  march. 

Captain  Sutter  emigrated  to  this  country  from  the  west- 
ern part  of  Missouri  in  1838-39,  and  formed  the  first  settle- 
ment in  the  valley,  on  a  lai  je  grant  of  land  which  he  ob- 
tained from  the  Mexican  G.»vernment.  He  had,  at  first, 
some  trouble  with  the  Indians ;  but,  by  the  occasional  ex- 
ercise of  well-timed  authority,  he  has  succeeded  in  convert- 
ing them  into  a  peaceable  and  industrious  people.  The 
ditches  around  his  extensive  wheat-fields  ;  the  plowing,  har- 
rowing, and  other  agricultural  operations,  are  entirely  the 


428 


TBN    TEARS     IN    ORKOOH. 


work  of  these  Indians,  for  which  they  receive  a  very  mode- 
rate compensaiton — principally  in  shirts,  blankets,  and  other 
articles  of  clothing.  In  the  same  manner,  on  application  to 
the  chief  of  a  village,  he  readily  obtains  as  many  boys  and 
girls  as  he  has  any  use  for.  There  were  at  this  time  a  num- 
ber of  girls  at  the  fort,  in  tniining  for  a  future  woolen  factory ; 
but  they  were  now  all  busily  engaged  in  constantly  water- 
ing the  gardens,  which  the  unfavorable  dryness  of  the  sea- 
son rendered  it  necessary.  The  occasional  dryness  of  some 
seasons,  I  understood  to  be  the  only  complaint  of  the  set- 
tlers in  this  fertile  valley,  as  it  sometimes  renders  the  crops 
uncertain.  Mr.  Sutter  was  about  making  arrangements  to 
irrigate  his  lands  by  means  of  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos. 
He  had  this  year  sown,  and  altogether  by  Indian  labor,  three 
hundred  fanegas  of  wheat. 

A  few  years  since,  the  neighboring  Russian  establishment 
of  Ross,  being  about  to  withdraw  from  the  country,  sold  to 
him  a  large  number  of  stock,  with  agricultural  and  other 
stores,  with  a  number  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  munitions 
of  war ;  for  these,  a  regular  yearly  payment  is  made  in  grain. 

The  fort  is  a  quadrangular  adobe  structure,  mounting  1' 
pieces  of  artillery,  (two  of  them  brass,)  and  capable 
admitting  a  garrison  of  a  thousand  men ;  this,  at  present, 
consists  of  forty  Indians  in  uniform — one  of  whom  Avas  al- 
ways found  on  duty  at  the  gate.  As  might  naturally  be 
expected,  the  pieces  are  not  in  very  good  order.  The  whites 
in  the  employment  of  Capt.  Sutter,  American,  French,  and 
German,  amount,  perhaps,  to  thirty  men.  The  inner  wall  is 
formed  into  buildings,  comprising  the  common  quarters,  with 
blacksmith  and  other  workshops ;  th<3  dwelling  house,  with 
a  large  distillery-house  and  other  buildings,  occupying  more 
the  centre  of  the  area. 

It  is  built  upon  a  pond-like  stream,  at  times  a  running 
creek  communicating  with  the  Rio  de  los  Americanos,  which 
enters  the  Sacramento  about  two  miles  below.  The  latter 
is  here  a  noble  river,  about  three  hundred  yards  broad,  deep 
and  tranquil,  with  several  fathoms  of  water  in  the  channel, 
and  its  banks  continuously  timbered.  There  were  two  ves- 
sels belonging  to  Captam  Sutter  at  anchor  near  the  landing 
— one  a  large  two-masted  lighter,  and  the  other  a  schooner, 
which  was  shortly  to  proceed  on  a  voyage  to  Fort  Vancou- 
v-er  for  a  cargo  of  goods. 


TEN   YEAE3    IK    OREGOK. 


420 


Since  his  carrival,  several  otlicr  persons,  principally  Amer- 
icans, have  established  themselves  in  the  valley.  Mr.  Sin- 
clair, from  whom  I  experienced  much  kindness  during  my 
stay,  is  settled  a  few  miles  distant,  on  the  Rio  de  los  Amer- 
icanos. Mr.  Coudrois,  a  gentleman  from  Germany,  has  es- 
tablished himself  on  Feather  river,  and  is  associated  with 
Capt.  Suiter  in  agricultural  pursuits.  Among  other  im- 
provements they  are  about  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of 
rape -seed,  [brasaica  rapus,)  which  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  climate  and  soil.  The 
lowest  average  produce  of  wheat,  as  far  as  we  can  at  pres- 
ent know,  is  thirty-tive  fanegas  for  one  sown  ;  but,  as  an  in- 
stance of  its  fertility,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  Senor  Val- 
ejo  obtained,  on  a  piece  of  ground  where  sheep  had  been 
pastured,  800  fanegas  for  eight  sown.  The  produce  being 
different  in  various  places,  a  very  correct  idea  cannot  bo 
formed. 

An  impetus  was  given  to  the  active  little  population  by 
our  arrival,  as  we  were  in  want  of  every  thing.  Mules, 
horses,  and  cattle,  were  to  be  collected  ;  the  horse-mill  was 
at  work  day  and  night,  to  make  ^  afficient  flour  ;  the  black- 
smith's shop  was  put  in  requisition  for  horse- shoes  and  bri- 
dle-bits ;  and  pack-saddles,  ropes,  and  bridles,  and  all  the 
other  little  equipments  of  the  camp  were  again  to  be  provi- 
ded. 

The  delay  thus  occasioned  was  one  of  repose  and  enjoy- 
ment, which  our  situation  required,  and,  anxious  as  we  were 
to  resume  our  homeward  journey,  was  regretted  by  no  one. 
In  the  mean  time,  I  had  the  pleasure  to  meet  with  Mr. 
Chiles,  who  was  residing  at  a  farm  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river  Sacramento,  while  engaged  in  the  selection  of  a  place 
for  a  settlement,  for  which  he  had  received  the  necessary 
grant  of  land  from  the  Mexican  government. 

It  will  be  remembered  f\at  we  had  parted  near  the  fron- 
tier of  the  states,  and  that  he  had  subsequently  descended 
the  valley  of  Lewis's  fork,  with  a  party  of  ten  or  twelve  men, 
with  the  intention  of  crossing  the  intermediate  mountains  to 
the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  In  the  execution 
of  this  design,  and  aided  by  subsequent  information,  he  left 
the  Calumbia  at  the  mouth  of  Matheur  river,  and  making 
his  way  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Sacramento  with  a  part 
of  his  company,  traveled  down  that  river  to  the  settlements 


4S0 


TEN   YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


of  Nueva  Helvetia.  The  other  party,  to  whom  he  had  coni- 
mitted  his  wagons,  and  mill-irons,  and  saws,  took  a  course 
further  to  the  south,  and  the  wagons  and  their  contents 
were  lost. 

On  the  22d  we  made  a  preparatory  move,  and  encamped 
near  the  settlement  of  Mr.  Sinclair,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Rio  de  los  Americanos.  I  had  discharged  five  of  the  party  ; 
Ne?l,  the  blacksmiili,  (an  excellent  workman,  and  an  unmar- 
ried man,  who  had  done  his  duty  faithfully,  and  had  been  of 
very  great  service  to  me,)  desired  to  remain,  as  strong  in- 
ducements were  offered  here  to  mechanics. 

Altliiugh  at  considerable  inconvenience  to  myself,  his 
good  co/iduct  induced  nie  to  comply  with  his  request ;  and 
I  obtained  for  him  from  Capt.  Sutter,  a  present  compensation 
of  two  dollars  and  a  half  per  diem,  with  a  promisic  that  it 
should  be  increased  to  five,  if  he  proved  as  good  a  workman 
as  had  been  represented.  He  was  more  particularly  an  ag- 
ricultural blacksmith.  The  other  men  were  discharged  with 
their  own  consent 

While  wc  remained  at  this  place,  Derosier,  one  of  our 
best  men,  whose  steady  g)oi  conduct  had  won  my  regard, 
wanrlfcred  otF  from  the  camp,  ana  never  returned  to  it  again, 
nor  has  he  since  been  heard  of. — Fremont's  Oregon. 


,,,  *i  •   4.,  ■'.' 


